How to Set Up & Support Your 3D Printed Dice

Struggling to get quality 3D prints on your Dice Masters? Let's fix that.
This video was sponsored by My Mini Factory.
Here is a link to the written version of this video on the My Mini Factory Blog:
www.myminifact...
Here is a link to The Blue Mimic's MMF page:
www.myminifact...
Here is a link to to The Blue Mimic's MMF dice STL's:
www.myminifact...
Check out ImagiNation Labs with Rev Chumley on KZbin! Huge thanks to him for the connected fin/line supports idea. (With our powers combined, we will rule the universe!): • 3D Resin Printing Mast...
Here is a download link to my free dice (now with pre-supports!): www.dropbox.co...
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MUSIC:
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• "Summer Groove" Future...

[@franciscoalonso1493]

Hi, maybe it has been pointed out already: From my experience I solved the inhibition problen (Anycubic grey resin, just in case): - Curing under UV Light for approx 30 min - Soaked in Isopropyl alcohol for 1 hour approx - Sanded off every face and soaked again on alcohol for another hour After that I could use those 3D printed dice masters right away to make the silicone molds. Hope it helps anyone without spending a lot on Inhibit-X or other products, specially for people who is not making a ton of dice.

[@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley]

Thanks for the shout out @Rybonator Glad my method helped out. Always glad when we can get the word out on how to make printing dice a bit less frustrating. I'm probably to blame for the whole "leave them out for a couple weeks" thing from my surprise on testing inhibit x alternatives. I'll be curious to find out if it works in your experiment.

[@Rybonator]

Rev, you are the absolute man! You were the missing link 100%, and your vids are so soothing to watch. Quality stuff my friend :) Hey, if you fixed 2 problems, that just makes you that much smarter! I'll report back after a few weeks/months.

[@sev705]

I find my best results are just letting them air for a week. I know there was another method floating around where you cure normally and then do a second cure in water that lets you mold in a day or two but I haven't tried it yet.

[@LadyLindsaysCreations]

@@Rybonator After 6 months, what was the turn out? Lol, if I can save $50, I'm more than happy to wait.

[@mrjinglesdice6745]

@@LadyLindsaysCreations I've done both the wait a week and over curing. I've yet had silicone fail in me. Both DG 20 AND SC 37

[@nourson54]

I found once a 'scientific' document on plat. silicon inhibition and SLA resins. The conclusion was that using a UV cure of ~15 min + 4h in a 120°C oven suppress inhibition for almost all resins . I had to find it again and post the link

[@chiaracarolinaalbergante8989]

In these days I was going crazy on how to put supports, and here comes Rybo to save me!

[@Rybonator]

Perfect timing! I did it for you:)

[@soshartje]

I've been trying this method and my dice turn out almost good this way. My only problem is that the half of the dice that have the supports gets print elongated and I have no idea why? the part of the dice that faces the vat and is not attached to the supports comes out perfect.

[@excrubulent]

I wonder if it's worth trying to print them in two halves with registration features so you can glue them together? As long as you can get the gluing step accurate you should have a complete set of good faces.

[@tommyfoley]

Try Smooth-On Mold-Max XLS II. It's tin cure silicone but doesn't shrink, has great detail, very flexible, and most importantly cures with 3D printed masters. Right out of the printer. No waiting months. I've had good success. You just need a vacuum chamber and a gram scale.

[@Rybonator]

That's good to know! I always heard that tin cured molds are far less durable. But I might have to just give yours a shot! :)

[@tommyfoley]

Rybonator I was worried about durability too. Haven't had any problems though. It's a little thicker than platinum based. To avoid bubbles, you might have to prep your numbers, like keycap people do to their small deep indented shapes of their masters. If you have questions, contact me at my IG: dojo_do_tofo. P.S. keep up the great work. I love your channel.

[@HungryHungryArtist12]

Finding your channel got me super hyped to make my own dice. So using my 3D experience I'm making my own custom shaped dice, but ran into this exact issue when printing. So thank you for this! Keep up the great work!

[@Rybonator]

Awesome! Super glad I could help :) I racked my brain for a solution for ages and this seemed to work for me so hope it does for you!

[@UriskOfTheFae]

I can't believe it's been 3 1/2 years. I can't imagine how long I've been watching this channel, then. Finally came back to this after years of barely starting to cast resin dice. Had my Mars 2 Pro printing minis for about half a year, and that desire to make my own math click clacks is biting again. With all the knowledge from minis, I definitely wanted to look up how folks handle printing dice masters (particularly on older 50micron printers). The warping do be a real concern. Finally, it be time for me to make the custom dice set for my D&D group's long running dungeon master. Custom faces & all. Thank you for years of awesome videos, Rybonator.

[@Rybonator]

@@UriskOfTheFae been a long and wild ride! Thanks for sticking around! You're gonna be the bestest adventurer/friend if you make everyone dice! You rock :)

[@fyrhtu81]

"We can always take material away but we definitely can't add it back." Uh - UV resin. Very fine eyedropper, UV flashlight. Boom. Now you too can add ugly hunks of material back to fill divots that you can then sand back down to the proper level!

[@CoolTrainerJulio]

Yep I do this all time when I accidentally take chunk out of a mini due to and support placement. Just drop a bit of resin, cure it with the flashlight, sand a bit. Good to go!

[@UncleJessy]

Heck yes! This is awesome

[@Rybonator]

No you :) also thank you haha

[@_JohnC_]

That ImagiNation Labs video was a life saver when I found it awhile ago, I was wasting so much resin trying to get a good master of my dice. I just wish there was a way to automate supports like this I'm also glad you're doing the inhibition test, I've been wanting to try that myself but just haven't had the time

[@Rybonator]

Oh for sure! But hey, a 20 minute support session, and you are good to go! :)

[@Rybonator]

And yeah I am hoping that the test works out alright. It would be nice to not have to rely on inhibit x :)

[@jeffrogers8810]

Do we know if the "wait for it" method is going to work? I'm about to start my journey into dice making. I'm getting a pressure pot and Dragonskin for x_mas this year sooooo excited!

[@cosmicbrambleclawv2]

"Gonna need some support" says the man who claims he ran out of 3d printing puns :P

[@crowsarewatching540]

One of the highlights of my weekend is always the weekly Rybo video

[@Rybonator]

That's so wholesome :) You rock Fireside! You made my morning!

[@willianmarianogajardoni4982]

I always assumed the 3d dice would come out ready to go. Great to know more kkkkk

[@Rybonator]

Ya I totally did too but glad I found a solution that works!

[@willianmarianogajardoni4982]

@@Rybonator Right ? It must have taken some patience. Thanks for sharing it with us.

[@Lavadog11]

I would also recommend looking at any of your prints layer by layer to make sure that nothing is going to start printing in thin air as that will cause defects in the dice that might not be able to get sanded out. I would also use a soft toothbrush to clean the numbers out and rinse it in the alcohol a few times. You don't need new alcohol each time I use dunk it back in the same stuff. I also let all the alcohol dry off completely before throwing them in my UV curing box. That way I don't get any of that shiny resin stuff in the pits of my numbers. Other than that great video!

[@Rybonator]

Oh absolutely! There are many minor steps to improve things you can do :) These are just the basics. Though I don't worry about shiny resin on dice, since we have to sand all sides anyway!

[@indranig2920]

I literally got my 3D printer today. You are a MAGICIAN.

[@Rybonator]

Boom! Perfect timing 🙂

[@shadowlaughers101]

I will say, u got me into dice making and I already had a Mars Pro. I've been printing and polishing the resin die with the Zona paper, and paint in the letters. And as long as u let the dice FULLY cure, I havent had any scratching on the dice at all. Translucent resin seems to cure much harder than grey or opaque resin does. So if anyone doesn't want to mold them and just have them for personal use, just polishing the printer dice works great as long as they are cured

[@Rybonator]

Good to know! I'll be doing some durability tests on resin next month, so maybe we can bring proof to that! :)

[@armLocalhost]

7:42 you can also ADD material. Get a syringe, wrap in something UV blocking (like aluminum foil), suck the resin you're printing with into the syringe and the carefully put the resin where you want it and cure under the sun or UV light and sand it to shape it. That's how you can fill holes, fix corners and just glue stuff together like regular epoxy.

[@40ounces]

you’re awesome for putting up those files for free! they’re the first thing I’m gonna try printing when I get my 3d printer

[@WitchOpheliaa]

I absolutely love rhombic shaped dice!! Definitely going to get some shapes like this for my next set of masters! Can't wait to see the result of the experiment you are going to make with the cure inhibition!

[@Rybonator]

That's awesome! Ya I can't wait either. Hopefully this is an actual solution!

[@DeathTempler]

For anyone struggling to get the supports straight, go to the "Middle" tab, set "Angle" to .02 Specifically, the first "Angle" value, do not confuse with one on bottom of page.

[@nourson54]

Thanks for the video and dice files! For those who want to print it , be aware it's a 14mm d6 based set.

[@Traylor0]

After watching your first video, It seemed difficult to order inhibit X so I lightly sprayed my masters with clear spray paint and they seemed to mold fine. Also you can correct a master with a chipped corner by dotting 3d printer resin on it and putting it back under your curing lamp for a few minutes.

[@Rybonator]

That's a great tip! I should definitely give that a shot if my corners go wonky sometime :)

[@lwolfstar7618]

What a supportive video to lift up other makers *chef kiss* I wish you'd made this a few months ago but it'll definitely help a whole bunch of folks

[@stellgodemperor6033]

You need more puns 7 isn't enough

[@Rybonator]

I'm sorry I failed you, maybe I can print some more out sometime? ;)

[@evilkoolade]

Waiting eagerly to find out if waiting will fix the silicone issue

[@miricoleciona]

Hey Rybonator, i've been binging your videos on your channel here and i was wondering if the experiment you did on the dice worked. did waiting several weeks help with the silicone curing problem?? thanks for all your incredible videos

[@The_McFortner]

1:52 "...[T]ired of the randomness in that." Heh, I see what you did there.

[@WhiteRaven___]

Dude... I can not thank you enough for this. I have an elegoo mars and gave up trying to print my own dice masters cause of those issues lol

[@WhiteRaven___]

I'm gonna give it another go now lol

[@Rybonator]

Hopefully this is the fix you needed my friend! Best of luck in round 2! :)

[@madisonwuertz2349]

As someone who’s about to get a 3D printer this is gonna help me tons thank you! Looking forward to seeing how the test works as I would love to make resin masters for dice myself!

[@Rybonator]

Beautiful timing! Best of luck in your making! :)

[@BaramuLord]

I usually use your vids as podcasts, I really like your content and appreciate the time and effort to make the pre-supported file for everyone.

[@KGillis]

I didn’t have inhibitX, and had sanded and let sit my resin dice for a few days. I then used platinum based silicone, and had zero issues. So, you may not need to wait more than a few days

[@Rybonator]

I tried it at a week once and had issues, but I'm sure there are a few factors in how long you gotta wait :)

[@KGillis]

@@Rybonator I think another factor was that I sanded it down to a near glass shine with zona paper as well before letting sit for a week. But, it may also vary a bit depending on what specific tin cure you're using. I use Dragon Skin 20.

[@damondestructo]

Dice polishing: there are kids pottery wheels. I have one with a 4” plate. I use 4” beveled mirrors with zona squares taped to the top. You can then tape, clip, or use those sticky gel pads, to attach the mirror to the spinning plate. Then when you need to change grit, just swap the mirror.

[@EiggyRules]

I printed the dice from your description and they all came out wonderfully! Then using the method I was able to print up my own customs and they came out just as well, excellent work and tutorial!

[@Mhworley]

At last!! This is GREAT. Printed up a set already. Can you post your files with supports on the islands? THANKS!!!

[@beefgnawpolisproductions2105]

Holy crap, thank you. I'm working on my first set of masters right now and tearing my hair out over mushy corners and streaky numbers. Sometimes I have decent luck fixing small divots by dabbing in the smallest possible amount of UV resin to fill the dip with a toothpick, laying a bit of clear plexiglass on top to squash it flat, and shoving the whole thing under the UV lamp to cure. The plexiglass will pop off once the resin is cured and if all goes well, you can sand and polish and it'll be fine. Sometimes it doesn't work and it definitely works better on faces than edges, but it's worth a try before you toss and reprint at least.

[@beefgnawpolisproductions2105]

Update: I started the Photon going on a batch of dice before I left for work and came home to what sure as hell look like perfect dice. Won't know for sure until I sand them a little, but I saw no mushy corners or obvious streaky numbers or any of the issues that have plagued me from day one. You're a lifesaver, man.

[@BaneWilliams]

Great shoutout for Ameralabs resin, which is one of the best price - performance resins I've ever stumbled across. Its low viscosity makes fine detail really come out with it, and I have less overall failures due to it.

[@Socrates458]

Thank you for setting up the supports! That is what I have a hard time with for any print. That and making them not fail miserably.

[@yoats72]

I've had good luck casting the Elegoo Mars transparent red resin in silicone. However, the gray doesn't allow it to cure.

[@dragnridr05]

Maybe it's the resin itself. If transparent resin doesn't cause problems but Opaque resin does, then switching to transparent may be the solution.

[@mrjinglesdice6745]

I've never had a problem with either

[@Beastly477]

Definitely took me longer than I'm willing to admit to support my dice in Chitubox, but man this guide is a lifesaver! Thank you very much!

[@sanakanful]

Thank you for this tutorial. I was just printing my own custom designed dice and was wondering why the corners showed those exact issues you describe. Just tonight while waking from sleeping I thought to myself that I need to improve the supports, but I had no idea how. Now I have a really good starting point for my next tests.

[@Marcario]

My dice from the files that you shared have just finished printing and they turned out absolutely perfect! Thank you so much, I'm a complete beginner and this made everything very easy to understand.

[@MadShamanLodur]

My guy! thank you for this video. I've been doing some dice and have been struggling with the dropping and I had not considered the fin method. Thank you!

[@Rybonator]

Of course my guy! Glad to help :)

[@joshuashaw5524]

Thanks for this. It's helping me print my dice with out as many failures and find where to troubleshoot my printer.

[@nicklasandersen7785]

Old but gold, thank you for the STL's!

[@xavierfaraudo]

Supporting on edges is way to go, definitely! I do it slightly differently (and slightly better, IMHO :D). I use OpenSCAD to generate the models, with a module to add some "walls" that are either strictly tangent or slightly ovelapping on the edge. The parametric nature of OpenSCAD allows to easily make those walls go all the wall or just some part (useful if you're doing chamfered, beveled, rounded, etc. dice). I can also add those "supports" on top, to compensate any distortion by shrinking/ different tension / slightly off results. That's far less work than adding all those gazillion supports, and with perfect orientation /alignment. I did also some dice that can only be 3D printed, AFAIK, as they're hollow on the inside (with draining tubes going to the vertices); I call them "dicenamic". You can void the inside with the dual of the polyhedron, the rectified polyhedron, the same shape, etc., and the balance won't be affected, but they roll like crazy. It's still a work in progress, but if you're interested I can send you files. Cannot imagine anyone better for honest review and insight!

[@bipolarchemist]

I can confirm that time will heal all that ails you with casting #D resin printed dice in platinum based silicone. I have 5 positive test now for 3D printed objects that are more than 1 month old. Sadly, my EPAX X10 is having sight issues so my experimentation has been slightly halted, but the dice I printer this summer had no issues in the mold housing I printed sometime in September or October. Hard to keep track of time these days, but if you are patient than Inhibit X is unnecessary. And the connected fin method if definitely a more consistent way to get those dice printed without issues. Now if only I could up my Blender skills to produce the supports there as a nice solid plate, my life would be slightly better.

[@wolfshield_games]

Does anyone have any tips for keeping the dice face flat when sanding? I have a tendency to rub one edge away as I struggle to keep the face perfectly flat on the sanding paper. This is especially true for the D20 which has such small faces and using the pottery wheel to aid sanding. Am I pressing too hard? Not hard enough? Holding it wrong? I've googled about but there wasn't anything specific for dice that I could find. Many thanks in advance.

[@phantoids]

Never done sanding but I'd guess if you had the paper in your palm and use that, you get a much flatter effect. Not sure, but worth a try.

[@mrjinglesdice6745]

Perfectly flat surface, straight line sanding, patience and practice lol

[@fusionrifleenthusiast4609]

I just use only the weight from my hand. You should let the sandpaper do most of the work - no need to press it down hard.

[@wolfshieldbez]

Thanks for the replies. My problem was that the mold I'd made just wasn't good enough. There was a degree of floating as the top wasn't flush enough to dice sides. I made a new one with a better fit and sanding was barely required or just required a light pressure. Cheers all.

[@mustbewilson]

Man I wish this came out like a month ago! In my experience after like 10-15 failed sets... Haha I probably experienced all of the above. Good work man!

[@Necroxin]

You upload this on the day I plan on calibrating my Sonic Mini 4K for prints! That's some crazy timing! 😉

[@Rybonator]

I did it for you! :)

[@MrForgetmenot1978]

Did you ever make a follow-up video about your Dice Masters not curing in platinum-based silicone?

[@daedelus_]

Perfect timing! Wanted to make my own dice for a long time, since I don't want to use someone elses model to.give away or possibly sell. Recently received my Elegoo Mars, and experienced exactly this. Thanks!

[@kylesanson6791]

Oh my god thank you for this. I'd tried all different kinds of supports on the set you put out, and always had drooping issues. Can't wait to run a print of these with the new supports later.

[@Rybonator]

Perfect! Glad we have a solution out there for you now :)

[@janetmiller1097]

Ohhhh my gosh!!! I need a 3D printer you have helped me learn so much!!! Thank you for your videos!!! It’s really helped me roll with dice making!!

[@Rybonator]

I'm glad I was able to help Janet! If you get printing, best of luck to you! :)

[@andon_RT]

I've had good results with Anycubic Eco resin and molding - A few days of sitting and things seem to mold fine. Water-soluble resin seems to have loads of inhibition issues even after weeks of sitting, even with Inhibit-X, and other things people have tried.

[@MayMcDonough]

I'm not sure I caught the results of the comparison. When you left out the dice, how long did you leave the out before sanding? and did it work? did you not need exhibit x?

[@nicholasbira2817]

This was the video I've been waiting for. I agree, this was the missing link in your educational content. Improving my dice now!

[@EspressoMoon]

Thanks so much for this! I have had similar results to yours, and am eager to try supporting with your method. Unfortunately it's a little cold for me to be working in a ventilated area now, so I'll probably have to wait until spring. Hopefully your video about trying the silicone molding without inhibit x will be out by then! Cheers!

[@silverdragon1314]

I can't tell you how excited this makes me, I was having troubles and I thought it was my printer being messed up dispite some good rest runs on minis. Hopefully this and one other change will fix my problems I'd run and do it now, but I'm with family for another week and obviously didn't lug my printer with me. T.T

[@resonatewithrae4413]

Thank you for making this available!! I'm going to use it to make amd sell molds I'll make sure to add your channel and original designer in my description!!!

[@sijtze1996]

Inhibit X is basically just light naptha, which means you could probably also just use the cheaper low boiling point petroleum ether or maybe even turpentine. Haven’t tested it myself yet, but I probably will soon since I’m planning on making some masters. In theory both possible alternatives would be able to basically remove any chemicals that would inhibit the curing of the silicone from the surface of the dice, but we’ll see :p

[@tatekid93]

You heard me! Last night I was looking for a good tutorial for exactly this and said, audibly, "Rybonator needs to make a video about this.." Haha thank you!

[@grayfaux_]

You can use a traditional uv resin to fill pits and holes. I've done it then you can sand your master smooth.

[@karatos]

Ugh.. where was this a month ago? I'm making a custom Tak set for a friend in my designed shape with a skull on the pieces to be inked later... Kicking myself for not thinking of those supports earlier. Thank you for that. Also the off gassing inhibiting silicone cure bit, yeah, two pours wasted trying to get around that. I also ended up just waiting, and they came out perfectly. But you said something I can jump on, that we can't add material back if it breaks off? Just take a drop of your 3d print resin, put it on the area, hit with a UV flashlight (with the resin supply shielded of course) and bam, more material. Can also be used to weld 3d prints together with consistent material which can be sanded down and shaped just the same.

[@damondestructo]

I can use Blender to add numbers and prep for printing, but building a die from scratch is beyond me my current skill set. What I've been looking for is a nice D3 .stl/.blend.

[@AgenderFordMustang45]

I LOVE d4s that are 4 sides with ends and not a caltrop. The only makers I know of that do d4s that way is crystal caste and NOW The Blue Mimic!

[@newgenerationgamez]

So I've tried this method out but my D6 ALWAYS comes out lopsided and I have no idea how to fix this.... everything else works, but my D6, no matter what method I try for my supports, is always warped.. HELP

[@chibster9124]

Thank you so much for uploading presupported models for your dice. I have been having so many problems with them! I noticed you didn't put supports on some of the islands or overhangs so I added my own when I went to print them, just in case.

[@Ulric_PenDo]

So, was there a follow up video in the 2 resin dices left out to see if they'd cure in the silicone without any sprays?

[@markkNL]

Did this ever get a follow-up? I can't seem to find it

[@thedollardm4672]

Your tutorials and explanations are invaluable!

[@RoseKindred]

This was interesting, thank you. I am modeling up some dice with custom sides and wanted to make a few for myself instead of having a company print 1000 before realising something might need a change.

[@DragonstormCrafts]

Hey Rybonator! loving your stuff! Any word on these dice being cast without the inhibit X? I also heard of another method of curing the dice under UV light for 4 hours and then baking in the oven at 180 F for 4 hours to prevent silicone inhibition. Waiting for that video! :)

[@mrjinglesdice6745]

Curing for 4 hours works just fine. Please don't bake anything printed or cast in epoxy.

[@DragonstormCrafts]

@@mrjinglesdice6745 what's the risk if baking it?

[@mrjinglesdice6745]

@@DragonstormCrafts heat plus plastic causes chemical release. I see people all the time on epoxy groups promoting the thought of baking their epoxy pieces, but it states clearly on the bottle and their sites not to. I don't see baking 3d prints being any better, its just a different resin.

[@DragonstormCrafts]

@@mrjinglesdice6745 that is good to know! The resin I use is epoxy free but I will still be cautious. Thank you

[@WonHaungLo]

This is a great explanation of how I need to do this

[@Geeksiders]

Dumb question. How do you get your supports straight in Chitubox? Mine come in at an angle and it causes curves along my edges.

[@racerdeth]

Currently working on this printing my first dice masters. Using the small supports along the edges on some test D6s are still coming out warped on those support edges (as in those faces are larger at the lower point), so I'm gonna make a batch of support variations and seeing what works better or worse. Annoyingly the prints are otherwise really sharp and nice, so at least my print settings are otherwise doing okay!

[@racerdeth]

Still struggling with this so lift distance/speed next experiment along with light off delay

[@jamescarpenter8933]

@@racerdeth I'm currently in the same situation and no matter what I do with the supports the dice still come out warped. This is especially noticeable on the D6. I tried increasing and decreasing exposure time but that didn't help. I tried Anycubic translucent green, opaque black, and Elegoo water washable grey and they all act exactly the same. I've tried printing point down, edge down, side down, everything I have tried has failed. I even tried changing the fep. I'm using an Anycubic Photon S. Have you made any progress?

[@racerdeth]

@@jamescarpenter8933 not yet but I suspect it's a FEP tension issue after trying loads of things. Got some PFA in the post today but watching Eurovision tonight so waiting until tomorrow to fit it.

[@racerdeth]

....at which point I found out Anycubic changed their vat design on the Mono 4K so now they use disposable pre-fitted FEP plates that you have to buy from them for £toomuch. So now I'm waiting on a different vat (funnily enough it's the Photon S vat) to come that has the traditional fittings 😅 I've done all sorts over the last couple of months, different support schemes, different orientations, different exposures, different lifts and retract speeds, light off delay, changing resin (though admittedly these were both Siraya Tech Fast - but I shifted over the the Navy Grey which I hear is much more consistent, and when I was zeroing in my exposure times, it was)...

[@Victorious_Reads]

Can confirm, letting your dice sit for a week or two fixed the cure inhibition issues. A week was enough for me.

[@Rybonator]

Beautiful! Now the experiment will also help to see if it needs to be sanded before or after we wait :)

[@Chronogami007]

Love your videos, thanks for them! How do you get the supports to add in fully vertical? I get the connections at angles, and have to try an move the tower to keep it vertical. super time consuming. thanks!

[@cameronfrost3225]

Me too! Have you had any breakthroughs with this issue since your comment? @Rybonator what's your secret to getting them all vertical straight off the bat?

[@susannedugas8219]

You can always use the techniques that plastic modellers have developed over many, many years for their models' construction to correct flaws in the surface of your printed objects. Divot or bump, it matters not.

[@OldManRogers]

Is there a video showing the long time cured vs freshly sanded dice?

[@jtmcdole]

A tip for post-curing: do it in water. Seriously; rinse like normal in IPA, then put into a container or ziplock bag with tap water and cure for half the time. O2 prevents curing.

[@Rybonator]

Oh man! I didn't know that. I'm gonna try it :)

[@rad-bird]

This came out at the perfect time! Im heading home from college and finally get to mess with my printer again. I was curious tho do you have any recommendations for printing like a coin sorta type print? I can never get one to work

[@Rybonator]

I don't have much experience on coins, however I would probably run fins along the edge, or I would put it at a 45 degree angle and light support the crap out of it. I actually have a coin I'm planning printing in a few weeks, if it goes well I'll let you know! :)

[@rad-bird]

@@Rybonator thank you!

[@MaliciousMint]

If the idea is that the chemical that inhibits the curing of silicone will just evaporate slowly at room temperature under atmospheric pressure then it stands to reason you could vacuum chamber them and get that effect faster wound it not? Just food for thought, never did hear if leaving them out works at all.

[@joshbahtoruk7903]

I know the vids are older but you're the reason I'm going to try my hand at dice making. I've 3d printed your stl files which printed great. Just wondering if you'd be willing to share the original 3d models as I'd like to remove the numbers and shrink them a bit to make a shell mold system of them. If not its not a big deal.

[@Rybonator]

Hi Josh! Glad you got into the hobby :) I would totally share the files without numbers if I had them, but they were made by a friend of mine and he built the numbers in from the beginning. Wish I could help!

[@joshbahtoruk7903]

@@Rybonator totally not an issue but you don't know unless you ask. Thank you again for the awesome videos and getting me into like my 10th hobby. Maybe I'll see if I can work them into having no numbers(I do a bit of cad) when I have time.

[@Rybonator]

Absolutely! Glad to put a hole in another person's wallet haha. Best of luck in your CAD journey my friend:)

[@joshbahtoruk7903]

@@Rybonator wallets are meant to have holes in them as idle hands do the devils work.

[@QuiniansBudgetCrafts]

ah thanks man! Been printing dice lately, this was a big help.

Started my channel this week, I’m your fan, Thx for teach us!

[@darkmojojojo]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch 😊

[@valekraine]

Wish you had a pla printer as well and could run some of those systems

[@CptWashu]

@Rybonator. Thanks for the files it was the first thing I printed on my new 3d printer. :)

[@rogthepirate4593]

So, stupid question from a non-dicemaker but avid 3D-printer: If the main issue with using printed dice is scratching ... wouldn't a decent sealant alleviate most of that? Have you had experiences with this? Because what I had planned is print sets of dice, sand them, stain them with alcohol inks, then clear-coat them.

[@Melos]

The puns! Besides the awesome content, I love your puns!

[@Rybonator]

The puns ARE the content. Everything else is just an excuse for more puns ;)

[@otterannihilation3655]

Thank you SO SO SO MUCH for making this available to us!!! It has helped me out immensely. There's just one tiny thing about the Rybonator set that bothers me... I printed it out and the supports worked beautifully, but the 2 on the d6 is not centered. It's more to the left of center. Is there any way I can fix that on my end in the slicer or another program? Thank you!

[@eemikun]

It's possible to import the stl file into Blender and fiddle with the models.

[@cichutko]

I do everything like in the video but D6 prints little warped:( how to help with that?

[@user-xp9ot8kf4q]

I'm confused, aside from feeling like this will cost 3x the PLA lol, why would you need this method on a regular die? A cube prints perfectly, I started printing 4 days ago, have made 10 dice, mainly squares, no supports. I am currently working on a D10, hence needing your video which appears like its exactly what I needed with so many points and angles. I was just curious as I've always thus far chosen a flat surface and started from there, with the model directly on the bed

[@user-xp9ot8kf4q]

That explains it HAHAHAHAHA.... It's resin printing, not PLA

[@mandyvantveer6362]

I was always wondering how to do that. Thanks for the vid! ^o^

[@Rybonator]

Thanks for watching! :)

[@corchonga]

Thanks for this tutorial!!! Do you have any suggestions on printing jumbo dice?

[@bug5654]

Find channel & first thought: Is this the CGP Grey of dice making? Verdict: Well technically no...but yes. Good stuff!

[@sarini6626]

This was so helpful, thank you!! Quick question: how do you clean up the number engravings?

[@privatizitat815]

Well, if I had a stable income and were of full age I could use your videos really well. Right now I have to get through school. Then came the dice

[@Rybonator]

We all had to get though it :) School first, then dice all day!

[@makewithmegma]

Cool👌👍

[@Rybonator]

No u

[@makewithmegma]

@@Rybonator 👍

[@tjans1979]

Think there would be any tweaks needed for rounded edge dice where there aren't fine points/edges like yours in the video? I just put one in the printer so I guess we'll see!