S3#18. New Boat ESSENTIAL Checks - Have you done them?

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Join Barefoot Doctors Sailing as the highly experienced cross ocean sailor, Paul Badenhurst runs through the checks that he does on every new boat he sails to avoid surprising breakdowns or mal functions on the long ocean crossings.
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The next few episodes will take us out on the water for the crossing as all our viewers are very excited to share in the actual crossing so we will work hard to get that footage edited on the go and bring it to you without too much delay. The next episode (#19) will share some experiences of the first two nights in 35 knots of wind and look at how the Leopards are built as the storm and pounding we get begs the question "How strong are the Leopards built?" and we show you how that is done in the factory.
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[@davidnichols147]

Such a lovely education Paul has shared with us novice sailor's.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

yes it is. Thanks for the support David!

[@johnmajewski1065]

Brilliant advice Thanks, I like the white line SV Skoiern IV

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks, John. Yes it is a good strategy and makes subsequent checks easy

[@michaelm2683]

This is a great Idea and very surprising that the Factory did a "nut and bolt" and marked them all and you still found loose items. I do want to say however that many things have a specific torque setting and hand cranking on them may not be correct, e.g. the rudder clamp bolts since there is a gap and aluminum over stainless you may be over torquing the factory settings and fatiguing the aluminum because of the gap. Also using a "Heavy Duty Rust Preventer" spray on everything before the boat is launched will greatly extend the life of many things. Also another trick any motor (water wash downs) or other sensitive/expensive items that may be exposed to saltwater dripping down or spray could be covered to extend the life. I use empty bottles of the appropriate size cut to slip over the motor or device.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks Michael for the info. Good ideas too. I was not aware of the Alum in the rudder clamp...

[@marktaylor484]

Preventative maintenance is so important in a marine environment.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks Mark.

[@ZeroDot42]

That new belt cover to protect from moving parts hides many a hose being worn through from a loose belt..that can be prevented .

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks Louis, good to know.

[@WillN2Go1]

Good video. Learned a lot. I'd get spare hose clamps. I've never liked those hose clamps, they're too easy to over tighten which strips them making them useless. On the new cat I was on the port engine stopped pumping water after very few hours of operation. The impeller had two missing fins. I suggested also replacing the impeller on the starboard engine, pointing out that the two engines were made at the same time with parts from the same lots, they sat out in the same sun, etc.. It was only about 20-30 hours more when the starboard engine was running hot, sending out 'steam' (you can't see steam (a gas) but when it condenses you can see that). Eventually its impeller was opened up, showed damage and was replaced. I was told, "We got another 50 hours out of the impeller." I still think this is a false economy. Good to see the all metal support arm gas strut. On our forward hatch was a strut with a plastic end which of course broke during the first week. Replacement ends cost $0.60 each -- good luck finding one anywhere except online. (I bought several on Amazon to send back to the boat with the suggestion to share them among other owners of the same company's boat. I've been up a mast a couple of times. Next time I think I'll bring a safety strap to wrap around my chest and the mast. Would make working a lot more secure and give me a 'brake' if the halyard somehow slipped. & I wouldn't use a slip knot to lanyard tools, use a multi wrap fisherman's bend. I put these on everything including our mop. If in doubt tape whatever knot you use with some duct tape.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Great pointers, Will!

[@davidking1501]

Torque setting are hard to find for the Yanmar engines. Have found these settings for the JH series in the operation's manual pages 76 & 77 under periodic maintenance. In the electrical transmission area's, we use locking washers and locking nuts on bolts for areas of vibration.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks Dan id. Yes I presume the marine industry is some way behind the higher volume engine industries. Locking nuts are great

[@Lana_Warwick]

Marine industries behind. There's a reason the automotive industry uses Spring hose clamps, they adjust Constant-Tension with temperature changes, therefore don't cut into rubber during expansion, or suddenly let go like those Worm clamps, especially if damaged due to/or over tightening. Even T-bolt clamps are a better choice vs worm. Also surprised he wasn't using a torque wrench on the bolts, not a fun job if one snapped. Better to use Tef-Gel on fittings/fasteners. Dielectric Grease on all bare electrics, incl input sockets (power points, usb, etc).

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks Lana, very good points. The manufacturers need to be brought into line with pressure from consumers - all of us.

[@Psychobilly]

4:06 they are very vicious! Ran one between my toes last year and required 3 stitches!!!! I use Corrosion X to coat my stuff to keep it from rusting.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks Blair for the comment and advice - absolutely agree with you!

[@seawench555]

Fantastic advice, though being a mechanic I will say, never use an open end spanner, use a ring spanner or socket and tightening hose claps use the right size socket and extension bar not screwdriver, u can slip and send the screwdriver through another hose or some other part of the engine. Simple, but if u don't have those tools, go buy them before u leave. Great presentation John as usual. Thinking of u all, be safe. 👣🌈

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Good Advice, Karlene!

[@gbsailing9436]

Great advice. Thanks John. How is Eli? I'm glad you've been able to make a start...Fair 💨's and following 🌊's

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks for asking Garth! Eli is having having fun with the grandchild and family and we are making good progress with the crossing - 1100nm in the first 7 days after the few days in the front where we did 203nm in one day... More to follow in the next few videos.

[@gbsailing9436]

@@barefootdoctorssailing8567 👍👍👍 great news! How's that clove hitch coming ??

[@nedwphillips2126]

Awesome advice, but I can suggest a far superior spray, better than silicon, is Inox is a natural wool oil, found at most auto supply shops, globally, it is water resistant and does not 'eat' plastics or rubbers, Silicon will wash away with water and tends to 'dry out' some rubber products eh spray it everywhere!! my outboard motor looked brand new under the cover still after 4 yrs of salt water running

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Great tip, Ned! I have heard of Inox but no-one has promoted it above others before so thanks.

[@greatpix]

I am a novice when it comes to boat mechanics but I would think using a torque wrench would be better since different people would tighten by different amounts. That way you follow the manufacturer's recommendations, if given, and you can always mark next to the bolt how many lbs/ft or n/M you normally tighten too, when cold or hot. It seems to me the painted line trick would be better marked when tightened to the correct amount first. I'm sure people with a lot of experience working on boats have developed a good sense of feel for how much to tighten or adjust things without special tools.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

I think for such big bolts that will not strip with manually tightening , hand tight is fine (just my non-qualified opinion in that field). Paul delivers boats all the time and has to use what is on the boat. However with or without a torque wrench, if you did not do the checks, that loose bolt in the sail drive would not have been found... I do not think that even 5% of folk check like that on new vessels!

[@greatpix]

@@barefootdoctorssailing8567 He definitely had some very good advice for anyone owning a boat.

[@RGF56]

Great video but gobsmacked that Leopard staff did not do that after testing and before handover . Should the Sail drive bolts be tightened with a Torque wrench ?

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

HI again RGF. Yes the engine bolts would all have been installed with torque wrenches and then painted to show the "normal" position. Paul just goes round to feel and test for any errors (by hand or with a torque wrench if on the boat) and surprisingly found one threaded bolt. But yes, a torque wrench should be used if able.

[@barryholiday8998]

Great advice. Sending you wishes for fair weather and fast sailing.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks Barry!

[@KirkThomson]

What great information! Thank you so much for posting this.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Glad it was helpful, Kirk!

[@saildreamer]

How do you know that you haven't over torqued all those nuts and bolts?

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

I presume it is an experience thing and usual firm pressure to make sure there is no movement is what you are trying to achieve and given that these are not sensitive bits of gear, my understanding is that it is no significant risk.

[@tinytoons2517]

Aussies use lanolin and Dr Fuel, we know how to protect our marine products . .

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

Thanks Tiny, yes I love Lanolin too and found it in France but I could not find it in Greece to replace the can...

[@maxx9384]

Whoah! I am surprised and also disappointed that my mountainbike for 2000 dollars has torque indications for each screw but in the marine business it is out of the wrist? I would like to have the proper torque values before I tighten vital screws.

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

I'm sure if that was important to you you could get it done - just adds to the cost. There are many things on boats that are not measured electronically like essential lock nuts holding sails up, single pins that hold the mast up etc. So it all depends how far you want to go but at the end of the day the bolts need to be tight and the experienced mechanics know how to do it fast and efficiently. As long as the thread is not destroyed, tight is fine (or maybe I just like things that are simple).

[@maxx9384]

@@barefootdoctorssailing8567 Thanks for the reply. I do have a torque wrench, I just would need the values. No electronic involved. I once watched an experienced mechanic tightening the alternator bracket by using a wrench with long arms and finally standing on it. Scared me quite a bit. I am from the airline business. Nothing is done by wrist there.. But maybe I am just too picky 😁 safe travels. I‘ll do the same route in November..

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

@@maxx9384 Yes the airline industry is decades ahead of the marine one presumably because failures in the air are much more dramatic. however I agree with you that if al lit takes is a tongue wrench then that should be easy. The issue though is that I do not believe that any of the marine engine manufacturers have in the their manuals details like that - so we have nothing to go on..... Hope the safety issues can be duplicated from the airlines to boats for the future though. Eg fire proof resin that is used in airlines and lifeboats! The bigger worry is that the one bolt in the sail drive was stripped and could be moved by fingers!

[@drdrft]

@@barefootdoctorssailing8567 As a certified marine technition for over 20yrs. Marine Manufacturers DO indeed have torque values, unfortunetly its in our "service manuals for every model we deal with" not available to public usually. I was cringing on some of the bolts that where tightened (maybe overtightened), yes some things over the years you get a "feel" for like brackets, hinges etc. Though those saildrives would have torque values and set by yanmar techs. A really good example is 2006 Range Rover Sport V6td. An oil pump pulley is only to be torqued to 8ft-lb on this perticular motor! So many of these vehicles have totalled the engine and written off. Because only Range Rover Techs at dealerships knew this. Anyone who serviced their vehicle and got timing belts changed at 200,000klm thru none dealership, the car did NOT last much longer, thus why there are so many Range Rover Sports with blown engines around the 220,000 mark. Any normal mechanic would assume 8ft-lb on a main pulley bolt is way too loose, it doesnt feel right. It still feels loose with a 3/4 wrench or socket. But you only supposed to use a 1/4 drive torque wrench! The bracket that was made out off a very soft alloy was very thin and anything over 8ft-lb of torque made them crack or eventually crack and unfortunetly the belt would then let go and make the valves crash into the pistons, motor dead. This is why torque values are very important on certain items as the designers designed it to be set a certain value. RR did rectifiy the bracket with a much beefer bracket but damage to brand and model was too much so they just scrapped that model and went to a 3.0TD eng. 2.6TD was tarnished and no one trusted it anymore. Even though Awesome motor besides that stupid torque value for said bracket. PS. I only know about the RRS cause it happened to my car. Research after it happened and now i know......lol

[@clivestainlesssteelwomble7665]

​@@barefootdoctorssailing8567 Agree with corrosion protecting fasteners ... but the problem is a lot of manufacturers specify dry torque settings ....many dont allow for settling and distortion of gaskets etc with time and temperature cycles. Let alone vibration levels. Theres also the the problem of the fitters tools.. torque wrenches need regular calibration against a master setting wrench ideally. Stripped bolts and nuts are a nightmare as that comes down to the metallurgy of both the blanks and the components plus the tooling for cutting the threads..

[@stevesteel6066]

Why is the steel not 316 grade? You tighten the nut, not the bolt! Poor engineering practice!

[@barefootdoctorssailing8567]

It is all 316 but even that oozes rust stain in the right conditions. I think the important thing is to actually check all these things as 95% of folk never do. Better that than missing the stripped sail drive bolt...