Saab 900 Rebuild Series - Part One: Engine

This video's purpose is to provide a summary on assembling a 16-valve engine for a Saab 900 - either a B202 or B212.
Take advantage of the Saab Electronic Parts Catalogue when referencing the part numbers displayed on the bottom of the screen, AND also take advantage of my Parts Library Project for pictures and simple dimensions of parts.
My Parts Library: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1F7gtiF_VQhMVv52ovdQC5TQHFcFFlb2B?usp=sharing
Chapters
0:00 Welcome!
0:36 Step 1 - Block Final Cleaning
4:03 Step 2 - Main Journal Bearings
5:10 Extra 1 - Check Main Bearing Clearances
15:06 Step 3 - Adding Lube for Crankshaft
16:23 Step 4 - Thrust Washers
17:11 Step 5 - Crankshaft Install
17:33 Step 6/6A- Main Bearing Caps/Setting Crank Thrust
21:52 Step 7 - Torque Main Cap Bolts
23:50 Step 8 - Overzealous Bore Oiling
24:25 Step 9/9A - Piston 1 Install
27:14 Step 9B - Piston 2 Install
29:28 Step 9C - Piston 3 Install
31:27 Step 9D - Piston 4 Install
33:47 Extra 2 - Rotational Check
34:16 Step 10 - Hydraulic Lifters
37:57 Step 11 - Install Camshafts
39:19 Step 12/13 - Install Cam Caps/Cam Cap Bolts
46:19 Step 14 - Head gasket
47:04 Step 15 - Head Bolt Install
49:29 Step15A/B/C - Head Bolt Torquing
54:40 Step 16 - Oil Pickup Tube
56:03 Step 17 - Timing Chain and Cam Sprockets
57:59 Step 18 - Timing Chain Guide 1
59:19 Step 19 - Finding TDC on Cylinder #1
59:53 Step 20 - Crankshaft Chain Gear/Chain Guide #2
1:01:08 Step 21 - Torquing Cam Sprockets
1:01:45 Step 22 - Timing Chain Tensioner/Timing Check
1:04:51 Step 23 - Adding Timing Cover Form-a-Gasket
1:10:42 Step 23A - Adding Proper Fiber Gaskets/More Form-a-Gasket
1:15:01 Step 24 - Timing Cover Install
1:15:33 Ref 1 - Timing Chain Bolt Locations
1:20:10 Step 25 - Oil Pump Install
1:23:31 Step 26 - Adding Flywheel Cover Form-a-Gasket
1:27:31 Step 26A - Adding Proper Fiber Gaskets/More Form-a-Gasket
1:31:18 Step 27 - Oil Galley Plug 8348047 Install
1:31:42 Step 28 - Flywheel End Cover Install
1:33:07 Ref 2 - Flywheel End Cover Bolt Locations
1:37:25 Step 29 - Adding Lower Coolant Drain Block Form-a-Gasket
1:39:00 Step 29A - Adding Lower Coolant Drain Block Install with Proper Fiber Gaskets
1:39:53 Step 29B/C - Plugs on Coolant Drain Block
1:40:49 Step 30/31/31A - Flywheel Bearing and Flywheel Install
1:45:37 Step 32/33/33A - Clutch/Pressure Plate
1:53:05 Step 34 - Crank Position Sensor
1:53:49 Step 35/35A/35B - Harmonic Balancer
1:57:21 Step 36/36A - Water Pump and Gaskets
2:02:50 Step 37 - Adding Coolant Outlet Cover Form-a-Gasket
2:05:50 Step 37A - Coolant Outlet Install with roper Fiber Gaskets
2:06:52 Step 38 - Upper Coolant Plug 8123721 Install
2:07:13 Step 39 - Knock Sensor
2:07:46 Step 40 - Adding Engine/Gearbox Mating Surface Form-a-Gasket
2:20:38 Step 40A/B - Adding Proper Anaerobic Sealant/Guide Pins
2:25:48 Step 41 - Engine/Gearbox Mating
2:30:24 Step 42 - Clutch Slave Cylinder
2:33:09 Step 43 - Bolting Engine to Gearbox
2:50:31 Step 44 - Starter Motor
2:52:55 Step 45/45A/45B - Oil Filter Housing/Oil Press Sender
2:55:21 Step 46 - Water Pump Pulley
2:56:32 Step 47/48 - RH Engine Mount Bracket/Mock-up for Tightening
2:58:33 Extra 4 - RH Mount Preview on Body Frame
2:59:12 Step 48A - Tightening Remaining Bolts for Mount
2:59:48 Step 49 - Electrical Bracket 7511975
2:59:59 Step 50 - Power Steering Pump
3:02:09 Ref 3/Step 50A/50B - Power Steering and AC Tensioner Brackets/Belts
3:05:02 Step 51 - Alternator Brace 7506272
3:05:35 Step 52 - Alternator Bracket 7541436 (Try #1)
3:06:19 Extra 5 - AC Compressor Assembly
3:20:19 Step 52A - AC Compressor Install
3:22:20 Step 53 - AC Compressor Belt Install and Tensioning
3:28:21 Step 54 - Correct Alternator Bracket 7541436 Orientation
3:31:44 Step 55 - Alternator Install
3:35:58 Step 56 - Coolant Temp Sensor 9108291
3:36:21 Step 57A/B/C - Intake Gasket and Manifold Install
3:44:15 Step 58 - Coolant Hose 7504624
3:45:49 Step 59/59A - Throttle Body
3:49:20 Ref 4 - Throttle Body Hose Connections
3:49:31 Step 60 - Idle Air Control Valve (Hoses in Step 61C)
3:50:56 Step 61/61A - Hose 4284311
3:55:26 Step 61B - PCV Hose
3:57:20 Step 61C - Idle Air Control Hoses
4:01:00 Step 61D - Coolant Hose 7482953
4:03:40 Step 62/62A - Oil Dipstick/Throttle Cable Mount
4:06:38 Step 63 - Fuel Rail and Injectors
4:08:48 Step 63A - Fuel Pressure Regulator
4:09:28 Extra 6 - Fuel Pressure Gauge (GlowShift)
4:09:51 Step 63B - Tightening Fuel Press Reg and PCV Hose
4:10:34 Step 64 - Distributor
4:12:52 Step 65 - Clutch Shaft
4:14:20 Step 66 - Clutch/Flywheel Cover
4:18:08 Step 67/67A - Positive Cable from Battery to Starter
4:20:39 Step 68 - Starter to Alternator Cables
4:23:46 Ref 5 - Starter to Alternator Cable Positioning
4:23:52 Step 69 (giggity) - Vacuum Hose Nipples
More footage to come later!
Please use the practices, items, concepts, and themes in this video at your own risk. Always practice safe shop/garage procedures and wear personal protective equipment when handling potentially hazardous materials or equipment. Have fun!

[@saabahed2667]

Hello. Thank you for a nice video. Quality content for us SAAB-nerds out here. Good work with the part numbers shown, and methodically labelled steps. If there are more videos coming out, I'm looking forward to them.

[@BFJRestoration]

I hope to have more as I rebuild the 900 that this engine is going into. I hope to have it rebuilt by August, or at least that's the goal.

[@26dujdb]

your channel is a hidden classic, make content like this and youll be huge no problem

[@BFJRestoration]

Thanks! It took me ages to initially upload the first one, so the second one may be a bit. Stay tuned!

[@richardmclennan2479]

Hello BFJ, this is a great video. Agree with others who appreciate this highly detailed format, amatuers such as myself want to see every step, every detail (including the tasks you repeat). When you have the time to insert some vocals (as you mention) that'll be great to hear (& see). Certainly be checking for further videos. Congratulations,, job well done.

[@kaihussy9020]

Nice Video dude Iam from Germany and work on Saab 900 Like 8 years 6 days a week , done much Gearbox restorations and Engine Restorations… thanks for the Video the only Things i can say is That i Would First put on the Both Engine Covers and Then the CylinderHead its Better in my Oppionion and I would use Loktite 518 as sealant. Saab recomendet it at the Bottom Engine Seal and its good to use with all Paper Seals :) Greetings

[@martinsupitis]

thank you! The parts library is a goldmine. 😍

[@BFJRestoration]

Glad I could help! I'm trying to expand it every day, so it should hopefully get better in the near future.

[@Semi0ffGrid7]

What an amazing and beautiful result!

[@BFJRestoration]

Thanks! Can't wait to install it soon.

[@t.h.9187]

It's a shame, the most important thing to stop a turbo engine from knocking was not installed - piston oil cooling from underneath! The Saab-H-engine has an oil line in the block that runs through the engine and can be drilled into in order to then shrink in nozzles. In the end, this innovation leads to a significantly more harmonious and stronger engine operation, as the APC system has to intervene much later.

[@mawin5899]

really should put some sealant around the ends of the head gasket where it goes over the end covers. Above and below the gasket. It's not in the manual but great for stopping leaks from those areas. They leaked from those joints from the factory! The sealant always should have been there but never mentioned by Saab or in any of the manuals.

[@BFJRestoration]

That's a great tip, and I wish I had done that! At this point, I think I'll install the engine the way it was built and hope for the best. I've rebuilt it three times over after finding better info online and on the forums. There are many items on this car that are test items that may have to be replaced or rebuilt in the near future (one being the ProPart motor mounts), so I can always pull the motor and crack the engine back open if I find oil leaks have developed. I'll definitely remember to that for subsequent engines, although I may have to ask my machinist about the very next one as I'll be using a Cometic MLS gasket for my SPG performance build. Regardless, thanks for your tip and wisdom!

[@pawpawbandit3871]

nice! hope mine turns out half as good

[@BFJRestoration]

Bet it'll turn out better than you expect. Good luck!

[@bobg3034]

Wow! What a weird engine/ trans set up!

[@BFJRestoration]

Saab was always quirky, but they were extra quirky on this one! lol

[@Semi0ffGrid7]

Hi, will you be uploading more videos on your channel?

[@BFJRestoration]

Eventually! I'm about to paint the car and then re-assemble it. I plan on documenting the entire rebuild, one step at a time once I finish capturing video and editing.

[@RetrocarStyle]

I always wondered what a blue top would look like....

[@BFJRestoration]

Yup, wanted to match some part of the Saab/Scania logo, and red seems to be the go-to, custom choice for many. Guess that makes sense though if you T5 swap your engine management as the DI cassette is red (if you don't paint it that is). Think I may opt for an Edwardian Grey color for my next one, so I can pay homage to the original color of my SPG before I give it a custom body color. We'll see!

[@javierisland7567]

Best anywhere

[@BFJRestoration]

Thanks!

[@loftalofta8423]

Incredible!! Thnx! Must have missed something but how did u install the valves?

[@BFJRestoration]

Had the machine shop install those since they did a valve job on the head. I may take footage of installing the valves and springs when I'm building my next engine in a year or so.

[@SaycoPworrell]

alright!!! time to get the projector out for a 120" 4hr 24min watch!! Also, im on a mission to rebuild my engine. what steps did you do tonfet yours so clean, and recommended spray paint (if thats what you also used)? appreciate it

[@BFJRestoration]

When I had the engine block and head machined, they also cleaned them in a giant parts washer prior to machining. I then used wire wheels on a Dremel to rid the rest of the rust on the side of block and the remaining corrosion on the head once I got them back. After that, I used engine primer and enamel paints to paint them both (Duplicolor, Rustoleum, and VHT brands - favorite color was Cast Coat Aluminum by Rustoleum), and the paint will fully cure later on when running the engine (the instructions are on the paint cans for that procedure). As for the other parts, I sandblasted and painted the outside of most of them, and re-zinced the hardware myself using a Caswell CopyCad zinc plating kit.

[@SaycoPworrell]

@@BFJRestoration well noted and thanks for details! definitely will start on mine this year.

[@nborer]

This is great content. I don't have time to restore one right now but I will some day! Are you interested in doing this work for pay? I have a few cars that could use this treatment.... :)

[@BFJRestoration]

Maybe a lot later in the future - I'm up to my ears in my own projects at the moment lol. I still have the car this engine's going in and at least two others that I have to finish up first.

[@nborer]

@@BFJRestoration Asked another way... Do you plan on selling them when you're done? Based on your attention to detail alone, I'd be first in line!

[@BFJRestoration]

@@nborer At this point, I'll be keeping this one. But who knows what I'll do with this one when my next one is finished...

[@HakenE30]

1:12:11 wrong way of doing timing chain gasket there and don't even use any paper gaskets there, it will leak, use straight silicone

[@barenekid9695]

Why is there still a ridge line on the Bores ?? NOT clever to fit cams before attaching Head to Block And WHY are you using Stretchy Cyl Bolts? They are a Poor substitute for the earlier Not stretchy Reusable Originals ??

[@BFJRestoration]

The vertical line in the bore is a minor scratch from inserting the connecting rods without proper protection - this was pure laziness on my part. The line/change in color that's around the circumference at the top of the bore is chamfering done by the machine shop for better ease in inserting the pistons. I'm still fairly new to engine building and love to learn, so could there be damage from inserting the cams off block? I did make sure to suspend the head to allow for valve movement; I know that's paramount. I did do a few things out of order, as I've reassembled this engine three times over after learning from other mistakes. As for the newer type of head bolts, they're the only one's I could readily find online. I'll be installing ARP head studs on my next project with forced induction. I believe the OEM bolts on this car were the torque-to-yield type (as this is a '92 900S block with a swapped '89 SPG head), or at least that's the kind I removed when disassembling. I ended choosing to swap heads so I can utilize the better flow in the 2.1 head for my next project.

[@williamschultz9668]

No background music. A sparse commentary of what, why, orientation and direction of parts, etc. would be useful to first timers because it’s really easy to install stuff incorrectly. (Backwards!) Be clear and sequential with vocal comments, preferably read from a pre-written script or outline. Repeating the same process 3 or15 times will make the videos too long and interest will be waning. Be clear, then go back and EDIT. I liked the mocking bird singing in the background!.

[@BFJRestoration]

Thanks for the feedback! I was planning on releasing a commentary-ed version, but then began working on trying to finish up the rest of the car. I recorded the audio, but then got busy with life in general. I'll post one eventually once I get the car put back together, but for now, this will be the only video on the channel for a bit. I'm about to paint the car, so hopefully I can release more videos this winter. Although it's (very) repetitive, I do like to show every step to allow folks to realize that the building process can take a good long while. Also, I know there are a few things that are out of the normal order of building this engine, mainly having the head attached before the side plates, so I'll need to explain why I did that exactly. I may change the chronological order of installing parts on my next engine I build later on (it'll be a turbo vs NA). Regardless, thanks much!