Exploring the Making of a Bronze Age Piled Hat

A number of impressive 'imitation fur pile' hats survive from high status male graves from the Danish Bronze Age. They have sometimes been called 'war bonnets', but may also be more general symbols of rank. They represent incredibly skilled work, with several layers of fabric secured by meticulous and often decorative stitching before the sewn pile of knotted threads is applied.
Although these are frequently mentioned in academic literature, there isn't a lot of accessible information about their construction and replication. I decided to learn more about them by trying out the techniques.
My version is a long way from perfect, I always knew I'd missed discussions of these due to my being an English speaker, and getting access to some classic German texts half way through the project gave me plenty to think about.
There are still questions that need answering about these hats, and I'm extremely open to suggestions of improved working order from anyone who has studied them.
This is a long video. Feel free to skip back and forth in it to get to the parts that interest you most!
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I now have a 'buy me a coffee' page which helps fund my ongoing research and the making of these free videos. If you'd like to support me, please visit ko-fi.com/sall... Thank you!

[@GreatDane933]

Danish archaeologist here, with experimental archaeology experience. Try contacting center for textile research at the university of copenhagen. They are very nice and helpful people, and are the right people to possibly point you in the direction of whom to talk to regarding close examinations of the hats in the national museum. I don't expect they will let you examine them of course, but if any close examinations of those hats exist, they will know, or know who knows and where to find the information. if you need help with translations of danish texts, let me know and maybe I can be of help. But the researchers at the center for textile research and at the museum might very well also be willing to give you a summery in english of anything of interest.

[@karenmelzer8878]

For my part, I find your version much more convincing than Schlabow's. You work continuously with one continuous thread instead of cutting the thread for each knot. This makes the whole thing more durable, there are no little “tufts” at the end of each knot and the knots can't come undone. And it looks more like the photos shown than the single knot version. A very interesting video, thank you for the great work! It gave me the idea to visit the textile museum in Neumünster that Schlabow worked on -- it's not that far from my home.

[@ingeleonora-denouden6222]

Yes, that's my opinion too: working with a continuous thread is much more logical.

[@lenabreijer1311]

Having done a lot of needlework, her method looks a lot more functional and not as annoying as cutting the thread and retreading the needle. If I had to make something that way the hat would have been given to the dogs as a toy at this point. Of course that could be why only 8 exist.

[@annalidamitzen8625]

Less waste her way. Waste was probably very rare back then.

[@Ecapsora]

I wonder, even if the knots are cut apart, if they weren't sewn on continuously and cut apart afterwards

[@lisasternenkind6467]

I totally agree.

[@arwenwestrop5404]

Hi Sally, you already have a Danish experiential archaeologist helping with advice, which is great. However, I also have had a good look at the foto of the hat as it appears at the front of this video. If I heard you correctly you said that the thread used for these 'knots on stalks' was made with thin, single ply yarn. And what I see on that hat is plied yarn, which is what your bullion knots may end up looking like after a while, so you may not be wrong after all! Also, I didn't see the bits of yarn sticking out of the top knots where it was supposed to have been cut. So don't discard your ideas too soon! BTW your videos have never yet bored me, regardless of length, and I doubt they ever will! You teach me so much in them!

[@sarahjarden8306]

Can you find the replica hat and see if the knots have unravelled.? As you say, experimental archeology is trying how things work, hands-on. Your videos are really interesting and are never boring.

[@beckysherman2987]

I imagine that bronze age people would not have had any more patience than we have today and they would have been working with less light; then any method of sewing and knotting which could be done by feel as much as by sight would have been used. Therefore, your method with the bullion knots and twisted thread seems more likely. Thank you for your videos xx

[@lspthrattan]

Without seeing the original garment in person it's almost impossible to be sure, but the first way you used (plying a single thread back onto itself after knotting it, if I'm saying it right) just FEELS right to me as someone who's done old-fashioned mending and hand-sewing all my life. No matter how you do it, it's certainly going to be labor-intensive and there's no doubt that's why they were apparently worn for status as well as for warmth. Wonderful video! Thank you!

[@MMacNicol]

I haven't read all the comments so I hope I'm not a pest, repeating someone else's earlier comment. If so, I'm sorry! Some of those EIGHT hats were found hundreds of miles/km apart, and also possible made by widely different generations of people, even if in the same region. There could easily be EIGHT different types of knots on them! I have no problem believing that the earlier analysis was accurate but possibly on a hat you've never seen a picture of. The picture you have in this video, of the knots in one of the eight hats, DOES HAVE knots like mini versions of the Monkey's Fist nautical knot, and are in no way similar to the scholarly description. Your method results in knots very similar to that picture you showed us. But you and he can both be right. And opposites, too.

[@jeriandersen4205]

This comment reflects my thoughts as well.The pistil /bouillon knot using a single ply. then twisted. seems a viable option on this hat.

[@didelphimorphia2925]

We are never bored watching you experiment!!!!!!! ❤

[@MMacNicol]

Especially when I am doing my own handwork while I watch! The long distance companionship is quite wonderful, as I know no one nearby doing the hand sewing I like. And with a bone needle someday? I'm grateful for all the likeminded companionship I can get! Thank you!

[@ingeleonora-denouden6222]

Never! 🥰

[@didelphimorphia2925]

Sames!!! ❤ ​@@MMacNicol

[@juilahenry1807]

Perhaps this observation has been made by many, here goes: The roaping along the edge would protect the utility stitches joining the layers edges from wear. Secondly, the wooly looking threads covering the hat would catch rain or snow, keeping it from soaking the hat as quickly as it might otherwise. I can invision a person shaking their head, hat on, to shed the snow or rain, or removing the hat and shaking it by hand to shed the rain or snow.

[@hannahwalker8660]

that makes so much sense that the texture could also be functional!

[@didelphimorphia2925]

Is this the bronze age version of conspicuous consumption? Holy moly that's a lot of work!!!

[@ingeleonora-denouden6222]

It is a lot of work. But then you get a hat you can wear for the rest of your life. Or even the next generation can wear it too!

[@Seabird41]

I imagine that a man would have had to spend most of a day backtracking to find a lost hat. Plus showing lots of remorse when he came home empty-handed.

[@FireflyOnTheMoon]

I agree that it would be crazy to spend months tying and cutting the thread and then rethreading.

[@emmabroughton2039]

Those double ended needles would be wonderful for embroidery on a frame. No blindly fumbling around for the right end.

[@christineg8151]

You can actually get similar needles intended for embroidery needles now! The ones I know of are from John James, and they call them "Twin pointed quick stitch" needles. And yes, the people I know who do a lot of embroidery love them!

[@juilahenry1807]

@emmabroughton2039 Also, I imagined quilting with my work in a frame. I think my stitches would be more evenly spaced and the work would go more quickly.

[@invisibleabi999]

every bone in my body is telling me that anything requiring you to re-thread a needle constantly cannot be the correct answer. that said, all of my experience in archaeology is from your videos. the hats being a symbol of rank complicates things, though, because maybe it was a statement about the amount of tedious work going into their hats (as if a bunch of teeny knots wasn't enough of a statement!) i'm excited to see what else you learn!

[@rachelkatz3950]

A spinner here, not an archaeologist. It seems to me that the fastest and most intelligent way to do the tufting (or whatever that is called) is with fine singles yarn and the French knots. The yarn should be over spun to make it sturdy and still have plenty of energy so that it will ply back on itself after the knot is added. Then the sewist could take a tiny backstitch and proceed to the next stalk without having to break off the thread at all.

[@auntsasalili]

Your French knit method seems best. Author didn't sew did he?

[@auntsasalili]

...And get it done before winter (less than 6 months!)

[@auntsasalili]

How do we get you into the museum microscope room⁉️ where's other pictures⁉️

[@daphnefoley7988]

The very small knots look to me like overtwist that has been pulled to the end of the tuft, no need to tie a knot at all, and like you said, no need to cut the thread.

[@Hippiechick11]

I would think that several different types of this would be possible and done differently by individuals. I also believe that a method that wastes the least amount of threads would be very important due to how labor intense making thread is when done by hand. And these were owned by wealthy people! And very, very warm! As someone who lives in Minnesota USA, I understand the need.

[@blacksusan108]

your method looks right. if id produced all that yarn, i wouldn't want to cut it. love your work

[@jackhancock6952]

Regarding your knots, it also makes sense to follow your process from a time saving perspective. Surely it’s more likely to be created using continuous threads like yours rather than stopping between each knots to cut and re apply!

[@jackhancock6952]

Do the replica knot!!!!!!

[@ladyofthemasque]

Thumbs up specifically for the "--that's what experimental archaeology is all about!" ♥.♥

[@ahill2239]

I enjoy your videos very much! The close-up of the hat at 30 minutes looks just like the fine bullion fringe on my couch cushions after my kids have been at them these last five years. They twirl them around their fingers and the ends form fuzzy little nubs and knots. The hat you're trying to recreate puts me in mind of the hat gifted to ZZ Top member Billy Gibbons by the chief of the Bamileke. I always think of the Danish as travelers so that's probably why that thought came to me. I don't mean this as any form of disrespect but as a crafter who especially enjoys working yarn and trying to figure out how things are done - I think this hat may have been constructed with a kind of punch needle technique and that the knots are single knots with little nubs of wear on the ends. If I were making the hat I would only tack the three layers of hat together and then start making the fringe by pulling my thread to the outside of the hat, twist, and knot then repeat (there's a crochet technique that's become popular that is like this). It would explain the many stab stitches and the need for the knots on the outside of the hat. After finishing the fringe on the hat I could see running an outline stitch along the inside to further secure all that hard work and maybe help keep the hat on. Maybe the exterior piece of the hat was created with the fringe and then attached to the inner layers. That would be a different construction idea and I am unfamiliar with felting. I hope a different perspective gives you the insight you're looking for.

[@amandajstar]

I LOVE Sally's projects, but even if the projects are not what you can/need/want to do, the explanation of methods and stitching, which are so useful in other ways (perhaps modern) makes her videos worth watching. You learn, and while you learn, you soul is soothed! What can be better than that?

[@ingeleonora-denouden6222]

and I know now in real life Sally's workshops are just like that, as interesting as her videos!

[@MsAnpassad]

I think they would have used overspun (then they would twist themselves) single strand yarn and used a ruler like object as you do when you do Rya rugs, so you do several stitches before letting them free. But I do agree with that those are french knots.

[@jaykay4663]

Yes that’s what I was thinking also - that the creator would have used an over twisted single to start with, so it would tend to want to double back on itself without much encouragement (but probably not so over twisted that it is difficult to work with a length of it). And I do agree that somehow a number of the little tails should have been able to be made together - like Rya. But then how to get the knots in them? A mystery!

[@MsAnpassad]

@@jaykay4663 I actually gave my idea a try and it looked just like the close up, even the bottom part ( the Ghiordes knot). It wasn't hard to do the French knots when using a ruler, I just held the needle parallel to the ruler when twisting the yarn around it.

[@witchways]

It was such a treat to have a long video from you. Thank you!

[@mond5004]

As others have said, my first thought was that they used a very overspun thread that was then knotted into the warp of the fabric. It's so difficult to tell in the old B/W photographs of the hats, but it could be a version of a rug weaver's knot (like a modified turkish knot or persian knot maybe). Basically the thread is a single knot, but it looks to be doubled. It would certainly give you the, thick high pile. If it was worked continuously, using a stopper knot between each of the turkish or persian knots at the top of the pile rather than clipping it off as is usual in rug making today, you might get the look you're after. Between each rug knot, you would be creating a stopper knot at the top and then stitching back into the same warp space to start the next knot. If the thread is very tightly spun, it should ply back on itself. Of course I may be totally off with the type of knot. It could also be that what we are seeing as a overspun yarn has been affected by being buried in tannin-rich soils for 2,000 years also. The strands may simply be very brittle now and might have been far softer to begin with. So what we see as kinked and tightly spun may not have been when it was originally worked.

[@sandraanderson217]

Always look forward to your videos! Hedge bothering, dying, felting… everything is explained with enough detail to learn new things but simply enough that it makes sense the first time around! ❤

[@maureenstrang6130]

That was fascinating. The level of work that went into a hat is astounding. I imagine that once you had one it would last you a lifetime. I have no expertise in archeology but whats bothering me about the knot and clip method is you're wasting bits of thread. Multiply that by 120,000and it's a significant amount of wasted material.

[@SallyPointer]

That bugs me too

[@ElisaArrigo]

It may not be “quite right” but it looks great.

[@HunterJE]

Definitely not bored watching the trial and experimentation, hope to see more of this project as it progresses!

[@MintyFarts]

I honestly like your initial boullion twist knot better than the double knot described in the "new" document. I did have a thought on how to do the new knot style more efficiently without taking things off and on the needle. go into the hat and anchor with knot 1 make knot 2 a cm up where the end will be without cutting make knot 3 a few mm away from the previous knot, ensure both are very tight. move one cm make knot 4, sew into the hat, come out and repeat entire process with knot 1 as you come out of the hat. when you are done a chain or section of these go back and slice between knot 2 and 3 so they are now separated stalks instead of a loop. This will help them be more even and reduce the time fiddling with threading the needle. I could be historically do-able with a nice set of sheers or a blade of any type with slim enough end, a sharp stone flake even.

[@jennykoczur9339]

I made a knitted hat once with the ply-back method of creating little hairy do-dads on the surface- used a lot of yarn, but what a fun effect! And very warm indeed.

[@auntietara]

I can’t imagine a knot where you trim off the end that close that WOULDN’T come undone! The energy of the twist releasing should undo the knots eventually. When first I saw you trimming them short to match the original, I thought, “well, that won’t work in the long run.” If that’s actually how they did it, there would have had to be some process they used to keep the knots from untying. (Your thought about wax seemed good, maybe slightly heated and rubbed?) 🤷🏻‍♀️ Your method looks clean and tidy, and if it ISN’T how they did it, I bet if you sat down with the people who were making them in the bronze age and showed them your method, they would have adopted your technique. It just makes sense. I’ll be interested to hear a followup, if you get more information that sheds light. Fascinating video, not boring at all!

[@annh.8290]

Love it. I think your knots look more like the original, but then what do I know! Heheheheh. Thank you for this it was lovely!

[@donnadees1971]

How wonderful you stitch slowly. Explaining is great.

[@Beryllahawk]

There is nothing you've uploaded that has bored me. In fact when I saw that this WAS quite a long video, I was extremely excited!!! What a fascinating journey and what an incredibly elaborate hat!

[@linr8260]

Complete history Dabbler opinion here, but the plied version makes more sense to me, especially if you start with an overspun single that would naturally try to ply on itself and thus require less manipulation. But I was also wondering if the end knot version might not have an easier workflow: keeping one yarn per needle, and making two consecutive bullion knots (or an overhand-bullion-bullion-overhand sequence), then taking the next stitch with the needles, make the four knots, take a stitch etc, leaving the knotted loops to be cut after. I was thinking about this because I can't imagine being able to cut the thread close to the knots with a single blade rather than scissors if you don't have a bit of tension, and leaving a long enough tail to *have* that tension would be super wasteful. It would also potentially allow the knots to settle in place or even be fulled or treated in some way before their tail being cut off. (Again, this is just an Immediate Idea without any testing etc... And I do think plying works better) Either way, thank you for an enlightening video as usual!

[@Ane_Rikke]

This was on my mind as well; a technique somwhat more like what they do when they knot carpets or tapestries I think? :) (but (as you?) I have NO qualifications for my hypothesis 😊)

[@louisefisher3333]

From a sewing point of view it would make sense to do a series of knots/stitches and cut them after, you can use the needle to assist with the knots, and there's a lot less needle threading than doing them individually.

[@WantedVisual]

I was also thinking that fulling the knots would either slow or prevent them coming undone, and cutting loops makes more sense than constant rethreading. It also gives the option of switching tasks between sewing and cutting loops.

[@aliwilson4130]

Oh! What if the fluffy ends you get when you cut it make the knots felt!?! Add a lil spit and they’d be neatly shaped

[@armuver1]

I'm amazed at your patience in constructing this work of art. Well done Sally, I'm impressed .From Scotland.

[@sophroniel]

As soon as you said that you ran out of space with the inner stem stitch I knew it was spirals! This is so interesting, thank you for including the new info

[@siarlpotatoshoe]

i had never heard of these hats prior to today, but as a spinner, my first impression of them really was that they were covered in an overspun single that had somehow been controlled and glued into place while it was falling off a broken bobbin. i really like this kind of deep dive video.

[@suzz1776]

That's what I was thinking. Idk about gluing, but it seems like overspun yarn is the key to this mystery

[@geereneerenee7208]

My first thought is also overspun single. And then woven as you would velvet or terry cloth. Perhaps tying the knots prior to weaving them in a pile weave. Would love to look under a microscope to see if the thread comes up in every cross of the woven threads. Thanks Sally for getting my brain working!

[@caspenbee]

Thank you for the demonstration of the edging with the colors! It reminds me quite a bit of crochet somehow.

[@Infotainment-z7f]

I love watching all these experiments on KZbin. It's much more "alive" then reading it in a paper or a book after the experiment is done. You learn a lot, plus It's also very relaxing to watch :)

[@jodiebristow3210]

This was my first visit to your channel. I know absolutely nothing about recreation, let alone archeological recreations. This was the most fascinating video. I appreciated all of your trial and errors. I will definitely be visiting your channel again.

[@janegreen9340]

Well i have no idea how I got here but I stayed for the whole film. This was absolutely fascinating. I love the bullion knot “drumstick” method of knotting - it looks sturdy and long lasting. Is it possible the knots were created in consecutive rows rather like knotting a rug, with one continuous thread and by somehow pushing the rows up or down to give easy access to the fabric? Again it could be stitched in a spiral from eg the free edge to the crown. I hope you get to examine an original as I now need to know how you progress. Great film.

[@alliegreenwold2631]

My thinking is that time was either not an issue during bronze age - everything took time but the idea of stress or hurry was not invented except for with harvest times. Or the whole point with prestigious goods was - as it still is - that it takes time to make. In Scandinavia there was till recently a tradition with fine handicraft gifts to your coming bride and groom, as way to demonstrate skill and investment during betrothal. Maybe this elaboratedness of these hats was of that kind? Pure speculation, of course.

[@JanePearson-lh3bz]

Seems to me that is the whole point about this hat. For a high status man ( presumably) . The more complicated the more status. Of course they might have had servants and slaves... but again I suspect that's not the point. What better way to show status than to have a hat made in essentially prehistoric velvet by high status women? Mother of the chief? Wife of the chief, daughter etc. Or maybe like you say it's a wedding gift from prospective wife who proves her love and devotion by spending 6 months on this and of courseshows that she is not a common woman who has to run around after the kids, fetch water, firewood cook, mend clothes etc. No the chieftains wife to be is someone who can sit around and make him swanky hat. I'm thinking a community who didn't have gold or silk, but plenty of wool.

[@lucyb15]

no boredom here. I don't have a suggestion about the knot but your twisted bullion stitch bobbles look right to me and the resulting fabric would be stronger because of the fewer cuts. great video! I love your work.

[@bluekitty3731]

Not sure why this video came up on my feed, but it was very interesting! I watched while I had my morning cuppa and worked on knitting a sweater for my son, I can't imagine my sweater lasting more then a generation let alone a millennium!

[@susannekarner9243]

Hi Sally, this hat reminds me of a wig... Just the way it looks from the inside with the spiral stitching. If I had to do this project, I would do all the knots first on a whole skein of yarn with a template for equal distance between the knots and stich it on with an extra thread.. if that makes any sense .. Cheers

[@AmazingJane137]

That sounds really interesting. I love your idea!

[@HaileISela]

dear Sally, i just found myself knotting into another project, basically a simple triaxially woven band. by mistake i ended up with a figure eight knot in the line i was working with and proceeded to ply it a bit from there. i would suggest this as an alternative to the knot you used, where this is likely a rounder stopper knot and quicker to tie compared to the french knot you tried here. and i would also suggest to keep turning around the hat with spirals on the outside. who ever did those old ones most likely turned the thing thousands of times in the making, so the knots in the book not only increase the work enormously because of the constant interruptions, they would also likely lose most of the knots later one, turning around yet again... my intuition tells me that they would have continued spiralling in much tighter rounds rather than put the little plies on in patches.

[@1st1anarkissed]

This reminds me of tying my turkish knot rugs. Work like that was done while sitting with kids or resting or visiting and talking. So a lot of time around other chores, but it would eat into your spinning time!

[@AntW11]

When i first saw the hat, it reminded me of overspun fine spinning that is backing on itself. I initially thought someone had sown overspun fine wool to create the effect. although this would be tricky, but possibly faster. But i think only seeing the item in person would solve the riddle. Either way, I thoroughly enjoyed this video. thank you.

[@mrscpc1918]

I don’t know anything about sewing although I would love to hand sew like this. That “ net” effect between the crown and hat band is amazing.

[@zeph2595]

I love the effect as well, and I'm curious to see if it could be used as a decorative effect on the outside of a hat (presumably with a layer or two of fabric beneath it if the hat is intended for colder climates).

[@sallyboyd1212]

Not any sort of expert. Just want to mention that the little knots that you've come up with at 53:00 look a bit like fungi/moss? blooming. In the bronze age, that would have been a familiar sight and maybe something they thought to copy. Just thought that was interesting.

[@eastlynburkholder3559]

Forgive me and do not be offended when I say I clicked on and said to myself this might bore you Eastlyn, but I was wrong. I became enthralled.

[@Squiffy1313]

Very clear and thorough explanation and demonstration. Thank you. Beautiful finished product.

[@bernadinewhitworth4262]

This has been a wonderful video ! Thank you for being so very tenacious, and sharing ! 🥰🤗🤓

[@dandfawesome3611]

So interesting. I agree with other commenters that tying, cutting, rethreading seems overly laborious. Will be eagerly following updates. Can only imagine the status and wealth that allows owning such a fantastic item

[@irieknit]

In mending much frayed cuffs this week, I used a blanket stitch and sashiko thread, stitches. The cording technique will help! What a genius idea. Thank you. All of these are so interesting, and i can spin for any woolen work.

[@emmabroughton2039]

It's fascinating, but I can't help but feel that the second version (Schlabow's) is so much more time consuming, over complicated and less visually appealing. If I was making the cap, I would definitely use the quicker bullion knots.

[@rosalie4069]

Thank you so much for sharing! This is so interesting to see. We went to the Archeon in primary school, I think it's time to pay another visit! As a Dutch person, it was fun to hear the background people talk :)

[@debvoz]

Sally, thank you so much for another fascinating video. Everything I see from you makes me think and ponder which is why I love your work so much. I don't have a great insight into the method for the knots, but I was wondering if there is a way they could be done with the double headed needle - perhaps there is some way to produce the right type of knots with the double head that can't be done with a single head needle. Just something to consider - different tools lead to different methods and the method is distinctive so perhaps it uses a unique tool. Anyway, the longer video was great - it was so interesting I didn't notice the time!

[@onegreenev]

Your version is just as right as the ones they did back in the day. Each area had their own techniques and many may have did their own versions of the same thing. Yours looks right and one that would stand the test of time for wear and durability.

[@juryrigging]

Silly questions as someone who has no idea what they are talking about: Could you do your knots continuously, without breaking the thread, then go back and break it later? Maybe piercing the knot with the needle and pulling the thread through help it to stay secure? I expect there will be an obvious reason that neither of these are viable, but I offer them up because sometimes clueless people can encourage new ways of thinking, even if their actual suggestions are dead wrong.

[@Hippiechick11]

This is how things develop. By trying multiple methods to see what works best.

[@JackyHeijmans]

From what I understand in the text, you need a double wool thread, that you sew twice through the same hole, and then you make two common knots on top of each other, (I would think the second one below the first one, then maybe they don't come undone so easily), at about 1 cm height, that you can make with the needle. And then cut off the thread above the knots. There doesn't seem to be a knot at the bottom, just a double stitch. I hope it makes more sense to you then it does to me.. Much love to you! 🤗❤(And you are never boring!!)

[@sophroniel]

I have done a lot of tufting in my time (they make a nice shaggy inside to slippers!) and you would be absolutely BONKERS to cut it at each thread! I think that the bulk of the tufting end product suggests there are two knots per "tuft"; one at the fabric, one where you do it as a little bullion like knot. When you stitch tufting (without cutting, just looping) you'll find the thread naturally wants to do a little spiral, just like you did. I would do an overhand knot or a three-loop square/surgeon's knot to make it round like that but it makes so much more sense for it to be continuous, not cut. I think we forget that these hats were worn, so perhaps some fell apart or got cut over the years of wear, but were all little loops to begin with. Yarn that is knotted likes to break off near the knot end as a point of weakness, so that seems logical to me. What also seems logical is that the inner spiral went thru the entire 3 ply fabric, and made a kind of skeleton to do all the knot/tufty things, and the rest is just filling in the tufting. Seeing an empty hat with no framework to follow when filling the hat seems pretty daunting, and just because we can no longer see a structure in the dense tufting doesn't mean it wasn't there to begin with :)

[@tristanunderwood6315]

As always informative and interesting! I love your content, thank you!

[@kirstyburgum2878]

Thanks again for another really interesting video. Your patience at reconstructing ancient items is fascinating to watch. Good luck with this hat.

[@LynetteHulton]

Loved every moment of your programme. Thank you very much

[@BonnibelLecter]

This long video was quite nice to follow along with, and I'll be interested to hear your further discoveries on how the knots are done!

[@mirandarensberger6919]

The labor-intensity of this hat certainly shows why it's an upper class garment! The knots on stalks also add another layer of insulation, so it would have been extremely warm as well, kind of like adding thrums in knitting. When I saw the diagram of the edge stitching, I immediately thought it could look stunning in multiple colors of thread. Your demonstration model confirmed this. When all the examples have become, as you say, archeological brown, is there any way to determine what the colors might have originally been? Someone who could afford the labor of this hat surely also could have had access to woad and madder and such, although this obviously doesn't necessarily mean they chose to. As for the knots, I think your way makes more sense. Breaking the thread after every stitch sounds incredibly tedious, and as a needleworker myself, I don't see them choosing to do that. Plus your way is clearly so much more durable. The other way undid itself in just a few days without even being worn; it seems unlikely that a different thread would be enough to make it last thousands of years. I hope you're able to get some clearer close-up photos of the originals and make a better determination. This was a super interesting video; please keep us updated if you get more information!

[@craftlete]

What an interesting exploration! I love following along with the process of experimental archeology - crossroads, detours and backtracks included

[@donnadees1971]

Doing this so precisely done by almost primitive workers just has me in awe. They didn’t have tv’s. Omg. And asking modern stitchers to do this…just has me agog.

[@trudi1962]

This is fascinating! Stumbled here from a general sewing algorithm. I did worry about the lack of registration points between the side and the top 😬

[@alaskabarb8089]

120,000 knots. Sounds like a good project for our long Alaskan winter.

[@Rachel-nb6he]

Timing of this post is perfect, needed my confort youtuber today x

[@sarahs9036]

This was such an interesting video - gives me lots of ideas on using that flexible blanket stitch joining for some more modern knitwear. Thanks for posting! And keeping the video long!

[@sangsterbassoon]

This is another excellent, in-depth video. I have also struggled using English search terms to find texts for some early Roman-related research projects, so I understand what a boon it is when you can find exactly what you're looking for. Your deference to an authoritative source does you credit, but sometimes that can definitely make the experimental part of a project more difficult. In my personal opinion, making a faithful interpretation that will hold the look and shape very well is more valuable than attempting a strict replica with uncooperative materials. Most of the other techniques you used are spot on. If you have to use a slightly different technique within the realm of possibility for what could have been done in Bronze Age Denmark to make a finished piece that is as tidy as the original, I say go for it. I'm not an academic, but I think 90% historical accuracy in practice and 10% historical accuracy in spirit can still produce a very valuable understanding of the subject.

[@michelles2299]

They were very resourceful

[@b.a.erlebacher1139]

I need a winter hat, and might make one like this, but without most of the pile! I really like the way the top is sewn to the sides - it avoids a thick, stiff awkward seam.

[@donnagray9579]

Wow, that was an intense episode. Imagining the work that was put into the making of these. They must have been high status people who got to wear the them.

[@saulemaroussault6343]

I like the look of the inside better, + the fluff would be very warm against the skin. Maybe it was reversible ? I wonder what made them do these rather than fur hats. Maybe just a flex ? Like “oh you have fur ? I have fabric embroidered to look like fur. Just imagine how long it took to make”. Maybe some could have been embroidered with different colours, not necessarily dyed yarns, just yarn spun from different coloured sheep, or perhaps different materials? You could make brindled/mottled effects, or even motifs if you were precise enough. … just wondering. Anyway : THANK YOU, this was so detailed and interesting ! Perfect length too, so as not to cram in information without taking the time to explain or illustrate properly. I really liked the bits shot at the village, especially since I could identify the plants around (lots of Eupatorium for example, that would have been a good source of plant fibers). I always look forward to your videos 💚

[@LadyValkyri]

I really enjoy the longer video format, and never once have I ever been bored by your content. Hugs!

[@k.jespersen6145]

Running stitch in a spiral can be very useful for holding shape, too. That's how bullet bras are stitched. Is the literature absolutely certain that the corded spiral happened only after the fulling with the wooden hat block, not during at some point? It would seem to be very useful to prevent any warping during the final part of the blocking.

[@CraigsOverijse]

I wonder why we no longer use double ended needles they look super useful. Also Sally use your method because it works better and although this would have taken time to make they did not wish to redo work over even then.

[@Laurasaurus5]

@CraigsOverijse I really want to try double needles now! Hopefully it's not too stabby!

[@ingeleonora-denouden6222]

Wow, Sally, you are doing such a great experiment! In my opinion your interpretation is a good one. Maybe it's even better than the interpretations made before ... 🔬 I hope you'll have the opportunity to watch a few of those hats through a microscope.

[@leisongivangomo4478]

Thank you! Excellent tutorial!

[@annalidamitzen8625]

I like your way for the knots.

[@ctac1847]

Wonderful. Loved your video. Have you tried a ‘waste knot’ which is made by moistening your index finger, wrapping the thread around the tip and pressing the thumb down on it to twist the thread onto itself, pinch, pull down and you have a (3-wrapped) knot at the end lickety split. Passing the thread (before)through beeswax strengthens the thread as well as locking the knot.

[@Laurasaurus5]

I have a theory about your theory! But first, beautiful job on this video and thank you for sharing your experiments and thought processes so thoroughly and in such a gorgeous setting! The nalbinding and stitchwork is fascinating to see in action and makes me want to try it myself! Your theory about the knot and back-ply method is so good, as well as your point about what kinds of cutting tools would have been on hand. I'm just thinking, commercial yarn is what's holding back your discoveries. The creators of these hats were likely spinning their own wool, which requires several time-consuming steps to get wool fibers into that finished commercial yarn state. My theory here is that your knot + back-ply theory would have allowed the craftsperson to actually ply a single spun strand of yarn onto itself, essentially doing the entire plying process straight ONTO the hat, allowing them to completely skip several steps of traditional yarn preparation! What's more, there are a handful of theories (Elizabeth Wayland Barber being one) that bronze-age cutting tools would have made ''shearing'' the sheep by cutting off the wool incredibly cumbersome and impractical, so the wool would have likely been harvested by brushing, combing, or simply plucking the fibers as the sheep is shedding them naturally, which could even eliminate the carding process! What if the entire piling process, from sheep combing, to (single strand) hand spinning, to needle piling/plying, could be executed by the shepherd or shepherdess WHILE they are outside grazing and guarding their flock? This would explain those jaw-dropping 120 hours - the maker was multitasking! I could also imagine this to be a great use for the less-profitable brown wool, so the shepherd could sell/trade the more-profitable white wool. I'm also wondering about those areas of nalbinding into a base of running stitches or blanket stitches - if they used an un-plied single strand there as well, I believe that could have added more stretch to the hat base. I've heard of some woven linen fabrics from the era utilizing single strands where the warp and weft are spun with opposite directions in the twist (''s'' twist vs ''z'' twist) to create a ''springy'' somewhat stretchy finished fabric. Perhaps using opposite directions in twist would have a similar springy outcome in naalbinding? Perhaps someone here would know? It would definitely be exciting to see you apply commenters' various theories to your experiment hat or even your next hat! I'm definitely subscribing for part 2!

[@SallyPointer]

I agree the single ply is the best fit here. I will be trying that when I next have my stash of bronze age style fleeces out

[@raktoda707]

Truly phenomenal how you figured it all out, assembled ans sewed,and sewed created a most beautiful hat !Thanks !

[@letiziavottero262]

i would never get bored of these videos! The experimenting is exactly what i'm interested in. Maybe it's a mix of the two methods? the first bit is done the same way you did up to the plying the yarn and then an over-hand knot done with the needle thread to secure the ply and covering more hat area before going in the fabric to do another one. I might try it out with some acrylic and scrap piece of fabric to see what happens

[@DM-ps4oc]

Thank you for this video.

[@buds8423]

Don’t sew, don’t have anything to do with this type of thing. It is really cool! Thanks for posting!❤

[@margaritagerman]

I first found you several years ago. I don't remember what I was researching, so many projects. Anyway, I subbed. It has been the most delightful journey! I had never heard of experiential archeology. You have made it so I not only am fascinated watching you, but itch to try it myself. You are a wonderful, top tier teacher of hands on needle working skills from pre history. You make me want to make my own cordage and construct Everything I see you do. (Fan girl moment there.😊) I wish you well in your endeavors to get your degree(s)? But hope you never give up your tube channel, teaching us who don't have access to the wonderful things that you do.

[@sarahburke8955]

That was fascinating, thank you!

[@carolesouthern8439]

Thank you for this. So interesting.🙂❤

[@onegreenev]

I would go with your method because if the old hat had that second version you showed you would see the tufts and you’d also see some of the knots unraveled like you found on yours. I’d use singles like you suggested. My thinking for making thread thin wool would be to actually dampen your fingers like one might do with linen to help keep the fuzzies in check and to use wool with lanolin. Many old things woolen things still had lanolin and having lanolin helps greatly in making thread thin enough to ply and have nearly thin enough to put on your sewing machine. Nearly. But would never do that with hand spun wool. All the wool Im spinning Im including hand sewing thread of the same wool so one may have thread for sewing on buttons but using matching thread of the same wool. Im watching this project closely.

[@MajickkShow]

Fascinating ❤

[@marilyngandhi8571]

👋👩‍🦳👍🇦🇺thanks for sharing with us. I learnt some Archeology over 40 years ago.

[@SallyPointer]

A lot has changed in 40 years, I did my first archaeology degree in the early nineties and it's amazing how much had changed by the time I did my MSc a year or two ago. Definitely worth revisiting if you enjoyed the subject.

[@hazelfox5613]

Really glad your video came up in my feed. I love the twin pointed needless. I’ve just bought some modern ones. I keep thinking that the constant rethreading of the needle would cause the stitcher to find a more fluid method. Threading needles is a nuisance. I think your technique seems more efficient from a work flow standpoint. Hope you manage to get more information.

[@bonitareardon5987]

If the inner layer of the sides of the hat was done on the bias, it would lay down better when joining and when stab stitching.

[@m.jewell9107]

I agree, but if these were offcuts from another project, there might not be enough fabric for bias cutting. I'm curious if the three layers were staggered for their join, or if all three seams were stacked in one place. I think also that her fabric was felted/fulled prevents it from fraying, makes it easier to join.

[@georginachaseling3465]

Loved the video, my only thought is that while the hat is very thick it doesn’t cover all of the head which you might expect if it was for wearing outdoors in a danish winter. Perhaps it was a ceremonial , perhaps judicious wig, and the little ,now black, twiglets were copying another culture, perhaps African. I agree that all that cutting and tying of knots unlikely, and that the inner circular Stem stitch secured the outer twiglets. More please, much more!

[@Yt-hb4wh]

So interesting!

[@akkelijke]

Darn we were also there a few times and diddent see you. Archeon is absolutely lovely.