Sanding sucks...until you do THIS

If you've only got a basic sander, then these upgrades will make a massive difference to your sanding - and no more need for KZbinrs to complain about it!
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Hi, I'm Pete. Northern Works is all about DIY furniture and home improvement projects that help us to consume less, and create more. I've got an ever-growing list of projects, and I'm excited to learn how to build things that I want to use, and that we'd love to see around our home.
If you value great design, but want to consume less of the fast furniture, then I'd love for you to join our community here on KZbin where we can learn together and share ideas.

[@1man1guitarletsgo]

If you find that a tool makes your fingers tingle, throw it away and get one that doesn't vibrate. Once you've developed HAVS (Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome, previously known as Vibration White Finger), the damage is permanent, and the longer you use vibrating tools, the worse it gets. Also, dust masks: the paper sort as seen in this video are really not very good. Work with dirty dust, and you'll find evidence of it when you blow your nose, meaning it's got through the mask. I use a mask with replaceable "press-to-check" filter cartridges, and will never go back to the cheaper types.

[@northernworks]

I’ll check those out, thanks

[@Solid_Jackson]

Medical expert here

[@1man1guitarletsgo]

@@Solid_Jackson Excellent. What's your professional advice regarding HAVS? Have you come across it in many patients? I know from experience (many years in industry, using tools that vibrated) how bad it can be, but I'm sure you can add something from your own experience as a medical expert.

[@Ahnii]

​@@northernworks glad to see someone talk about the bad safety gear😬 lab technician here, because of the toxicity of the substances handled, I have to wear my filter mask at all times while inside the lab. So not only do I have theoretical knowledge but quite a bit of personal experience with many different masks. For woodworking (no toxins or solvents), I would recommend getting a moldex 8000 half mask (that's what I personally use), the direct particle filter adapters and p3r (reusable category 3 particle filters, reusable meaning good for multiple session) particle filters. Its good quality, really comfortable with low resistance and the filters are really affordable. Remember to change the particle filters when breathing resistance is getting high/ is increasing rapidly. You can also use it to spray paint/ finish stuff if you want, just make sure to use a general purpose filter (abek 1 or 2), filter adapters and p3r filters on top (this setup filters particles as well as solvents and other chemicals in consumer products).

[@nigelh2696]

​@@northernworksyou should use gel gloves with vibrating tools too, or impact gloves when using impact tools. It'll save you from a lot of pain later on in life . Also I've subscribed keep up the content

[@szita2000]

Scrapers giving the best surface because their cutting angle is 0. (Source I am a 50yo cabinet maker) Sanding gives you nice finish because the dust fills up the pores. When you stain or varnis you will put moisture on the wood raising up the flattened tiny spliners, that's why you will have to go back with a 240 paper and sand it slightly by hand (take off the rough) after the first coat of varnish. Second coat will be like a glass.

[@user-oe1mb9hu9i]

Best glass finishes I've achieved on mahogany furniture or even yacht hulls is (as many coats of varnish as you want; in order to get the thickness right) to lightly sand the last varnished coat down once it's been left to harden to get the shine back to matt and then prepare a pot/solution of 50% diluted varnish which is almost like water Then apply this solution on with a roller and immediately stroke over with a large floppy paintbrush. The finish is mirror like and there is so much thinners in it that it dries almost instantly. Thick ness is in the prior coats; finish is the wafer thin last layer. I did this with a 33 ft cold molded wooden mahogany yacht and even the boat yard came out to look at themselves in the finished product ! They achieved factored in the time it took for each coat of varnish to dry seeing the prices they charged for that finish !!! ( to be honest the boats were taking up all their workshop space) and were surprised to see someone else get the same standard of finish that they always boast only THEY could achieve 🙂

[@stevenowens4511]

Just to clarify @szita2000's remarks, because I found this "raises the grain" topic fairly hard to understand a few years back: The wood fibers will absorb the liquid of the stain or varnish and swell, unevenly, which will result in your formerly smooth surface no longer being smooth. That's why all of the articles and tutorials and such say to sand again in between coats. The stain will sink in deeper than the wood that a light sanding will expose, so when you're done, you'll have a stained surface that is once again smooth.

[@lesleyfrench4182]

I need to sand and treat an Ercol dining table I have... my nephew's dog scratched it when she got up on it to look out the window... I have been nervous to do it as not knowing how to start... what varnish would you recommend please?

[@Dickie2702]

​@lesleyfrench4182 Two or three coats of Osmo hard wax oil applied with a white scuff pad and then excess wiped of with a clean cotton rag.

[@markhornby3135]

I was told many years ago that after sanding you should wet the surface to raise the grain, then rub down with coarse wire wool. I've never had cause to do it, but now 40 years later I need to restore an old kitchen table. Does that make any sense to you?

[@andrewclarkehomeimprovement]

Thanks for that. Make your own card/cabinet scrapers by cutting up old wood saws. They come with a straight edge on the back, they're springy and you can cut to the size and shape you need easily with an angle grinder and file.

[@JT-si6bl]

You tried a wood rasp from old saws you don't want to re-sharpen yet? an Epic tool.

[@andrewclarkehomeimprovement]

@@JT-si6bl it is not cost effective to resharpen wood saws. 2 for £12 (€15/$15) mass produced for big box DIY stores.

[@JT-si6bl]

@@andrewclarkehomeimprovement And that's gonna help learn to adapt an old tool, repurposing, before the trash is the next stop?

[@andrewclarkehomeimprovement]

@@JT-si6bl exactly, waste nothing, repurpose what you can, recycle what you can't.

[@JT-si6bl]

@@andrewclarkehomeimprovement Yeah, 'innovation is the mother of invention'! Besides, although the new saw is 12 bux it'll cost more time and money getting it rather than using some mind thoughting powered by beer to check the new developed tool... sheds help too ;)

[@tonyc7352]

Good video. Another little-known advantage of adding the vacuum is how it cools the sandpaper, allowing it to be more effective and last longer by not gumming up. It also provides cooling to the power sander. Glad to see you using ear protection especially with both the sander and the vacuum running. I was dumb and didn't do that, I do now.

[@penelope_skye]

Years ago i bought a veritas card scraper holder amd it really changed using them for me! No more tired thumbs and its adjustable too so you can het different finishes on the peice, i really recommend them

[@barnes29510]

Growing up in the custom car scene. Dad started me out with sanding; then taping, etc etc... So, now @ 51 sanding is therapeutic for me.... It's a great way to let your mind escape from the worlds madness. Thanks for the upload! 🤙🏻🤙🏻

[@ronaldnorris3683]

That's me! My Dad did the same thing with me, I can sand and sand and sand, NO PROBLEM 😅

[@barnes29510]

@@ronaldnorris3683 .... that's awesome! At the time I thought it was punishment 😂 but I'm glad he looked out for me!

[@iiRR3lephanttt]

Yeah- I have my best ideas whilst sanding

[@Croi_Fiain]

Sanding, buffing, doing the dishes by hand - anything that slows the body down, slow the mind too. It really is a great way to "meditate" and achieve something practical at the same time :)

[@northernworks]

@Croi_Fiain so true!

[@henriks5008]

Used to be a spray painter at a local workshop. I did more or less all of the finishing and restorations there. In this case I would use a steel card scraper. If its sharp and well maintained, it would take you maximum 40-50 min to do the entire surface. Sanding old finish is almost always pretty time consuming, and can be more costly, since you go can potentially go trough a lot of sanding paper, and if youre a professional woodworker time is money, for sure! Put some force into the scraper as you work, try to bend it a little bit to create an parabole to the surface youre scraping. (The scraper will get really hot so wear gloves!) I usually put my thumbs in the middle and flex the ends backwards to create a bow when Im scraping forwards, when/if I scrape backwards I try to fold the card the other way again, so you are trying to bow it slightly in the direction you are scraping. Not the same, but kind of when you are using a hand plane, push at a slight angle, instead of pushing at a straight angle into the workpiece. Good luck!

[@user-oe1mb9hu9i]

Scrapers are fast and efficient if properly used - once you get used to them. depending on the job I also wet the surface with stripper (diluted or not - depending) etc etc. Was working on a flat surface on a 1934 yacht's deck with a scraper like that and the boat yard owner came over and told me to stop "stroking" the wood and to put some welly into it. He took the scraper to show me how and immediately gouged a great big deep scratch into the 8o year old deck !! Just goes to show. You have to know what you are doing and NOT try and speed things up too much unless you know what you are doing. I managed to get a free weeks rent of the space in his workshop off the bill for that great big gouge and have since replaced the damaged timber.

[@Don.Challenger]

@@user-oe1mb9hu9i A 'know it all' may have learnt something with that bit of vandalism, but sometimes you have to take it on the chin. Hopefully his shame brought him up in the world to be humbler and observe for a while rather than rudely take charge and ruin things. [he could have asked if you were relaxing, or if you could work faster on the task at hand]

[@johnrumbles3068]

Hi Pete, after many years of the joys of sanding, I recently upgraded my sander and started using the mesh disks ( I already have a shop vac for dust extraction). So watching your video, i have to say you are spot on with your observations. I took some time to take the leap, primarily due to the cost, but the difference was remarkable. i am working my way through our internal doors, and the upgrade brought the job of sanding back the old finish from over an hour per door to around 20 minutes, and that was to complete both sides!!! Keep them coming Mate, you nailed this one. 😁😁

[@northernworks]

Cheers John, glad you’ve seen the benefit! Good to know they work in the long term too

[@diatonicdelirium1743]

Wow, that basically means that you 'earn back' your tools in one go doing all your doors! Thanks for this extra information, I'm procrastinating on sanding & painting the trim boards covering the drains around the roof (many m2), but the outlook of relatively fast sanding may just persuade me to start :)

[@bennyblack6079]

Every cabinet maker knows that a scaper is the safest and quickest for a smooth finish

[@kaikrist]

If you pull the scraper instead of pushing, it works a lot better.

[@1man1guitarletsgo]

Each to their own. I get a better finish by pushing a card scraper. It's essential to keep it very sharp, and pay attention to the grain direction.

[@peternicholsonu6090]

Loved it Thankyou. I left Liverpool 74 yrs ago to Land down Under. My issue is effective mask...have however discovered scrapers. My kitchen floor was epoxied 30yr ago and I wasn’t keen on dust through the house so a got best scrapers the Swedes make and got it all done. Over a week or two mind but no swirl marks and bright Cypress pine kitchen again. I laid same timber through whole house but not going to scrape it! Just always remove shoes and so far all is sweet.

[@fxm5715]

I'm a big fan of cabinet scrapers, both for wood surface prep, and for finish smoothing between coats. In many situations they are faster and easier than sanding. It does take a little experience learning to sharpen them quickly and easily, but it's well worth the hour or so of experimentation.

[@user-oe1mb9hu9i]

So much more efficient when used properly and then you can finish off with a hand sand of light sanding machine for the perfect finish.

[@pauldobberstein5643]

When I apprenticed with a luthier years ago, one of the first things he showed me was his method for making multiple variations of wood scrapers. These were always made by hand with slight variations in the edge. A straight chisel edge can cleanly cut across the grain. A slightly angled edge sharpened and the cutting edge is almost folded over from flat 180 degrees to about 120 degree for a clean draw with a trailing edge on the scraper, or give the contact edge tight bend in the direction of the draw, so as you draw the edge across the work with the scraper body almost parallel to the work surface for a draw as if pulling a paint brush across the work surface with the cutting edge contacting the wood surface with just enough hard curl of the edge to cut cleanly ( like on a Stanley wood plane pushed forward) as the tool is drawn pressed to the work surface. The size of the cutting edge folded degree if sharpness can be fine tuned for different dimensional requirements and material hardness for efficient precise material removal yielding a near finish ready surface. A wide range of sculpting in a controlled, effective manner working with a wide range of materials. To be able to on the fly, visualize a needed tool and with basic common materials fabricate and fine tune to a purpose highly effective efficient tools. It was an eye opening experience for a young aspiring craftsman. Prior to those lessons , I thought tools were designed and made for us to acquire and utilize. Now many years later, more often than not, some task will provide inspiration and motivation, which in turn spawn innovation and creation. I learned many valuable lessons during my aporentice training, but the simple scraper opened my mind to a different, more self-reliant, D.I.Y. approach, which has been a beneficial outlook, approach, and outcome for many of life's changing dynamics. The ONLY thing that never changes,,, is the fact of life that EVERYTHING CHANGES.

[@hangableautobulbbot]

Lovely stuff, as a DIY enthusiast who loves real world data I actually learned something from this video which is something I don't often get to say.

[@michaelquinn94]

@northernworks - Pete, you're a natural presenter. Well done.

[@user-oe1mb9hu9i]

He thinks his videos out, unlike other YT'ers. Doesn't waste your time.

[@russellcasperson6695]

Upgrading to high end sanders and dust extractor is one of the biggest upgrades you can make in woodworking imo. Just makes everything easier and better.

[@philip_fletcher]

+1 on the card scraper. The steepest learning curve is sharpening them. Once you've mastered that, the finish is so much better (and quicker) than sanding.

[@warrenfroggatt8306]

If you want to really see about speeding things up with a card scraper, have two of them. One with an aggressive burr, and one with a fine burr - just like how handplanes are used. By doing this I really don't mind sanding as pretty much I only sand to prep for the finish, after raising grain, and sometimes smoothing out end grain. Of course on a really large surface, an aggressive grit sanding then clean up with card scraper or plane is prudent. I have a cabinet scraper that works pretty good for this also, but honestly on large surfaces sanding can get good results quickly especially with grain that fights a plane.

[@NickFabi]

Great video, I remember being taught how to build guitars many moons ago at London guildhall and sanding tended to be frowned upon in many of the usual finishing situations. They tended to prefer the card scraper as it didn’t tend to clog up the wood grain which stayed with me. Flat scarpers tend to be staple for many people but I have a number of different shaped ones which are amazing at doing convex etc. I still have my original card scraper that I still use regularly after 30 years! It takes only a second to sharpen it. There are not many people that can say the same about a piece of sand paper of a sander 😂

[@northernworks]

I’m definitely doubling down on learning how to use it well - I love the finish of my planes and this scraper

[@tonywtyt]

I enjoyed it! My grandfather was a woodworker. I've done small projects, and I've watched my dad and other remodel their basements, so I learned some things from that exposure.

[@petrsidlo7614]

Card scrapers are the way to go once you get the hang of them, and you can make them quite easily yourself. What I would recommend you is to try and make a scraper out of a snap-off blade (you can find the how-to on a channel called grinwood) You just make a simple holder for the blade, run it on a sharpening stone a couple of times and you are ready to go. It way more comfortable the trying to bend regular cardscraper and I tend to get finer shavings.

[@Kung_Fu_Jesus]

After years of cabinet scraping and hand sanding to finish off, my finger joints are knackered. I love a cabinet scraper but my hands at 52 years old don’t

[@petrsidlo7614]

@@Kung_Fu_Jesus case in point, try making that holder for the snapoff blade, no pressure on the joints anymore.

[@harveysmith100]

Festool engineers are crying into their German beer after seeing that hose fixed with duct tape

[@jeffscott3186]

They're crying into some pretty high end beer. I think they'll be okay.

[@lechatbotte.]

Festool isn’t vibration free. I’ve seen many wood workers talk about that. By the virtue of the way the sander works you can’t completely eliminate it. Some are worse than others.

[@ruzziasht349]

@@lechatbotte. Festool is the vacuum

[@raleeuw]

Festool you pay for the name

[@harveysmith100]

@@raleeuw You think that until you own them

[@Rexyspride]

This video couldn't have come at a better time. Just started to sand off my dining table and was having a nightmare with my cheap sander. I didn't bother with a vacuum and thought I had to press really hard. I need to finish it off over the weekend so I'll be using your tips for sure! Thanks

[@charlestaylor3195]

Let the sander do the work. If you press down you'll clog up your sand paper and wear out your sander, plus it won't be sanded evenly.

[@AlexanderAmato-FamilyMan-ql3lq]

I love the way you think mate. You do experiments and you even use older tech I have never heard of. Wow, I am subscribed just because of that! Keep up the good work!

[@bridevalley]

We have the very same table and the surface finish degraded within months, even though we don't have kids or dogs. We do have ketchup sometimes though, but that hasn't made much of an impact. I once had to refinish a glued-strip beech worktop that had some sort of nasty sticky substance on the top. I suspected raw linseed oil that had been over-applied and the excess not removed. White spirit would have softened it but the stink in the house was too much to bear. All the sandpapers I tried clogged instantly so I bought a cabinet scraper. It did the job brilliantly and even helped remove most of a nasty black (iron?) stain. It also made me feel a teeny bit like I knew what I was doing! Useful and interesting video - thanks for making it.

[@northernworks]

You’ve got to watch out for that ketchup… Yeah, I’ve been disappointed with the table - it’s a nice design, but the quality wasn’t as good as I’d hoped. Now I know a bit more about designing and making my own furniture I can understand why that table is how it is, but I’m glad I now have the skills to maintain it. I thought about grabbing a cabinet scraper for this - I reckon it would have made light work of the old finish. Do you get much use out of it?

[@bridevalley]

@@northernworks We bought matching chairs and they've steadily fallen apart which is hugely disappointing. The scraper was excellent for the worktop and a bargain at about £15. I have used it a bit since and am considering getting the appropriate steel to help create that all important burr. I expect it to get more use when I get going on our kitchen project. I haven't found much use for it lately since I'm fitting out a shower room and digging drains outside.

[@magnificentmuttley2084]

Hi Pete - I loved the video and your wit, great fun! You get a 👍 and a sub! I’m 64 and I remember my old woodworking teacher, 50 years ago, telling us that if we wanted to be proficient woodworkers, we should learn to use a scraper. He even showed us how to sharpen it - if I can remember. He was someone who preferred to do everything by hand. I’m not sure how good electric sanders were, or if orbital sanders were around then but he didn’t like them, “Too much clean-up!”, he used to say. He even used a hand-drill if he was making holes and I’ve never forgotten how sharp his drill bits were! Everything he made was immaculate. I look forward to watching more of your handiwork. Best regards from the Giant’s Causeway coast of Northern Ireland. 😄👍☘️

[@philipwilliams8114]

I learnt tons from that video. Cheers Pete and Archie 🐾

[@Cheva-Pate]

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="207">3:27</a> for every 3 decibels the experience of the sound level is doubled so even small differences is big change in how you hear/feel the sound level!

[@joeb-jk7gd]

thanks Pete, I enjoy your style. Please can we have more of Archie!

[@Kung_Fu_Jesus]

Pro tip to anyone attempting sanding their table down. Ensure you know whether it’s veneered or solid timber. It’s very easy to sand straight through modern veneers as they are so thin, if you do that you are in a whole heap of trouble.

[@guillaumepare9651]

One thing I like is chaging the grain. I start with 40 (think it's 40 grains per square inch), then 80, then 100-120 or up. 40 remove well. 80 is kind of balance between removing and getting rid of carves made by the 40. 100 (and up) is for smooth finish.

[@AmbroseClarke]

No idea if it would work - but would adding more mass to the small B&D sander stop the sander itself vibrating so much and so the sandpaper would vibrate more? It might also make it easier on the hands.

[@viviancrompton1920]

Thanks for the great sanding tips. I know this was a sanding video but I would have loved to hear a little more about the finish you applied, and why you chose that particular finish for this application.

[@giulioluzzardi7632]

Take a file to that scraper and watch it renovate every piece of wood in its path. Great vid. More please.

[@OrganicGreens]

Fantastic video. My take away is that as a non professional I do not need to buy a expensive sander. A few more minutes and a little more dust is no big deal If I'm only sanding a few times a year.

[@d.e.b.b5788]

Keep an eye out for used B&D, DeWalt 4011 finishing sanders, new now known as Porter Cable 380 (all those brands now owned by Stanley). You can find them used at flea markets, garage sales, etc.. Parts are still available as they were the top finishing sander for over 30 years, and quickest at removal of wood from the surfaces, even beat 1/2 sheet sanders. Google for pictures. Lowest vibration, too.

[@liutgerfranzen1387]

A dust extractor is a MUST, not only for sanding. Invest at least into a decent one for around $200 instead of buying a crappy one and a decent one some month later (like I did ...). And you're right with using a mesh sanding disk instead of a regular one, but it is also important what kind of abrasive used: try the 3M Cubitron II mesh sanding disks and find out how much better they are even compared to Bosch mesh disks.

[@philtucker1224]

Fully agree for daily users and professional but if you are a casual d I y er that may only use the tool once a year then a very cheap one is usually quite sufficient.

[@liutgerfranzen1387]

When you use your sander only once a year, you‘re likely not building furniture or anything else with wood that requires a finish. Or you build one piece per year only. I would call myself a casual DIYer and I use the sander approx once per month. Absolutely worth the extra $50 (got a Makita BO5041 for ~$120). And a good dust extractor will also reduce the mess with you other tools (hand/track saw, router, miter saw) for probably $100 extra.

[@Realm-of-Horror]

Recently picked up a Makita sander, similar to yours, but 125mm. Thanks for the info, will be sure to hook up my vac when I use it next.

[@Sonnell]

very nice info, thanks :) Though it was frustrating not being able to see the finished product :)

[@leslieschmitt7749]

I really enjoyed your video and learned so much. I’ll never send again without a vacuum hooked up. Thank you for your time in trouble and I look forward to future videos. 😊👍🏻

[@simonplayer3406]

One thing I found changing to mesh discs was there was too much suction. My sander would get sucked into the wood and bog down. I had to make a bleed port in the hose

[@demonicsquid7217]

Turning the sander rotation down worked for me, but if your vac is too powerful you can lengthen the hose - preferable to putting holes in it.

[@gpdewitt]

Cabinet/card scraper - properly sharpened - beats all every time. Far more enjoyable as well. They make holders for them to mitigate finger strain and reduce heat.

[@andycarter4888]

Great video! It's good to learn from others when it's so well presented. I'll definitely try the mesh sanding pads on my Makita sander and have a go with a card scraper. On the dust extraction I cannot agree more. I'm a builder and I have bought dust extraction fittings for all my power tools that cut, grind or sand. Nothing worse than working in a cloud of muck!

[@Obsid_Ian]

If you don't have a metal scraper handy then a piece of glass gives a fantastic edge to work with. When it is worn just cut it with a glass cutter and straight edge to bring it back to life, oh, and wear gloves.

[@user-oe1mb9hu9i]

Wouldn't try that for big surfaces on a regular basis but I suppose it could get you out of a tight spot if your metal scraper lost it's voodoo.

[@freas8520]

Were in a hurry and got a cheap sander. It had terrible vibrations so I taped some weights to it and it improved a lot.

[@Helveteshit]

If you had a 3D printer and a bit of technological DIY know-how. You could of made a 'Dust guard' that you typically see on CNC machines on your old Sander. That way, you could of upgraded the sander's suction, even better.

[@user-oe1mb9hu9i]

VERY interesting video and very well edited not to wasting people's time. Thanks. Card scrapers are really good if you are doing a flat surface like a table top. But I still sand the whole surface afterwards to get best results. mild paint remover or even warm soap and water together with a scraper get excellent results too. Wet the surface with the remover (diluted) or warm soap and water then wait until it's almost dry and scrape. All the surface grime and first layer of wood come off with no dust. Just a small pile of wet "dust" that can easily be wiped away with a paper cloth. Then let the surface dry thoroughly. If you're in a hurry dry it with a hair dryer. It's down to personal preference, but hard wax oil ? I use matt marine varnish. two coats. Takes a week-end but my table tops have lasted twenty years like that and all they ever need is a wet wipe.

[@harmweerts]

Connecting my shop vac to my sander made a huge difference. I 3d printed an interface so it was done for very cheap.

[@boofuls]

Your fingers tingled when you ran cross country.. possibly the 🥶 weather 😅

[@kevinwillis6707]

scrapers take a bit of skill to sharpen and use, but give great results, i recommend a holder to save your thumbs, id use a lower count grit at the start to get the finish off, and yes there are huge differences in quality of sandpaper. dust collection is a must. cheers

[@paulspalace]

I bought a workshop vacuum, then got waste pipe, elbows etc. and run pipes round to various points in my workshop, added flexi hose to the ends so can be attached to tools, just put a piece of card over the hose thats not in use, amazing how much cleaner the workshop stays.

[@jackcameback]

This was really interesting and well filmed - thank you for your time - just subbed

[@4623620]

TIP: My late grandfather (a professional painter/restaurateur of Chinese lacquer) used smoothly curved shards of glass from broken window panes as scrapers❗

[@radinsyah1574]

I use a Bosch and what I’ve found is changing the sanding base plate depending on grits works wonders. Hardest for low grits and softest for highest. Pad savers are a must too if I’m using mesh, which 3M Cubitron is an absolute game changer. As for dust collection, dust deputy (or the equivalent) makes sanding way more pleasant.

[@TimmyTheSnail]

1st video I’ve ever seen of yours and what a great guy you seem to be. Funny, informative and calm 🙌🏼

[@onnobeckerhof5790]

Thank you for the very nice tutorial. Nice that you have taken the time to compare and explain. Very comfortable to view and listen!

[@shanechapman2415]

always thought dust extraction was a safety / clean thing had no idea would boost performance so much. cool video cheers

[@TheHypnotstCollector]

I've got Northern Calif black walnut in my yard so I bought a mill. I just began sanding pieces. I begin with 40 to 80 grit and end with 1200grit. So far. the farther you go the better it looks. I discovered Cubitron II and it lasts much longer than anything else I use. Now I'm going to get a scraper. I have much wood to polish. I post videos of my experiences. Juglans Hindsii is the cats meow of all varieties of walnut

[@jonescrusher1]

Good nfo and lots of effort put in here.

[@tz6414]

Brilliant review, well paced and informative.

[@friedfish69]

Weigh the dust. The size of particle may be different, which would mean different-sized dust piles. Weight gets you around that problem.

[@BeasleyStreet]

I'm sorry, I'm old school, but sanding is for smoothing wood, heat is generated when sanding, all the shit and contamination is then worked well into the wood, with its associated finishing issues. Strip the finish first, cleany, and then sand as required. I know the modern sanders, particularly the festool equipment which are so efficient, it's mad. However the finish is still best removed by non sanding methods.

[@johnsonjohnson4725]

Enjoyed your video. I actually enjoy sanding, but am about to oversee the restoration of a cedar table my Dad built 60 years ago, so this is timely!

[@barnes29510]

I just tried the mesh style paper for cutting down Bondo for cars. It cleans out so much better and with that, the life span is a little better. Plus, I don't have to create trash as quickly because I can use it again with other sanding projects. Far as the sanders- being I'm working from home. I have both electric sanders and air sanders... Either type, I prefer a sander that has variable speed.....the trigger style. This way I can slow down/speed up the machine with ease.

[@CristiNeagu]

That trick at the end worked. I was like: Who on Earth throws out so much good quality wood!?

[@AndrewMillar001]

Excellent video! Had often heard of using dust extraction for the sake of the dust, but it's new to learn that it actually improves the performance. Great tip!

[@northernworks]

I was surprised too!

[@kevinwillis6707]

yep you arent pushing the sawdust back into the wood pores, doesnt clog the paper up either.

[@gcdcg4d]

Thanks for doing the hard graft with your tests. I've reverted to hand sanding several times because the DIY sander was so useless. Now I need to put a filtered vacuum on my Christmas list...£££ (cheap vacuum just redistributes the dust from the vent!)

[@lynettamurdoch5443]

Thanks for this. I’ve never heard of the card(?) scraper. I’m going to have to check that out!

[@dbtest117]

I use my 3d printer to make vacuum adapters 🤓

[@johnkunze5362]

Pull, don't push the scraper. Keep sharp.

[@meetim2931]

I clicked on this because I have the same Black & Decker sander. 'Sandstorm'. I concur that it is loud and harsh. I have always wanted it to have variable speed. Unfortunately the foam Velcro disc has broken and I don't know where to get a new one. its method of attachment is unique and other brands don't fit it. So I bought a Ryobi instead, which has variable speed. The best part was it was one of the old blue ones, on clearance for $30. I like the old blue Ryobi tools. My favourite is the Circular saw. When the armature blew, I sourced a new one, which was apparently the last one left in Australia. Yes! If you think this post is a stream of consciousness load of drivel you are probably right.

[@Plutoman09]

I love sanding, it's an art. Especially by hand without an electric sander... Understanding sanding, you have to feel, watch, listen apply the right pressure, use the proper backing ( hard or soft) to what the sandpaper is doing, depending on what the characteristics of the wood . And the quality and brand of sandpaper needs to be learned too. Some are good some are bad. Sanding definitely is a learning process I rarely throw out used sandpaper because as the grit wears down it becomes less abrasive it can be used as a "smoothing" the surface depending on what needs to be done.

[@austenj4539]

So right, chuck. Reducing sand paper friction from dust with an extractor makes every common sense fibre in my body tingle. Simple logic and well exampled on your sample. Simples!

[@Karaon]

just try Mirka. I dont personally own one but will not replace mine with anything else but them. I could sand all day with those miracles, literally you can have a casual conversation during sanding and it barely vibrates (if you follow balancing instructions properly)

[@alex_mazur]

I have Makita router and drill, they blow the dust all over the room. I guess it's for evacuating dust from the working surface. Makes sense from making things done perspective, but sucks from any other.

[@kz.irudimen]

Something mesh discs can't fix is vibrations. The first time I tried a half decent sander (I'm not talking Mirka or Festool, I mean a 80€ bosch pro) I was shocked by how much less it vibrated compared to my previous ones (Parkside and Ryobi). If you ever feel your hands buzzing after a sanding session, get rid of that sander if you can. It won't happen with a half decent model. If I had known I would have never bought that Ryobi POS, saving 30€ was not worth it.

[@northernworks]

So true - you really notice the extra weight on the Makita dampening the vibrations

[@karyldavidkidd7111]

Thanks brother I do sand a lot. Been too lazy to hook up to dust collection. Saving time is massive for moi! Dig the channel! Be well

[@MakerBoyOldBoy]

To avoid many issues simply use a finish stripper and scrape off the residue, sand and refinish.

[@videogalore]

Really interesting, thank you.

[@DomDom-tw5jk]

Interesting, full of humor and full of lovely dogs --> I subscribe

[@jcugnoni]

Such a good video. Thank you so much for making sanding less of a pain! I learned something for sure.

[@anthonyb8600]

This was the first one of your videos that I've seen. Brilliantly informative, easy to understand, and well presented. Given a thumbs up and subscribed.

[@davideyres955]

If you think that’s going to be loud there a cheep hand based belt sander I got from screwfix and that thing was painfully loud. Seriously even with my ear defenders I used to use for shooting it was loud. The tingling you are feeling could be vibration white finger and it’s not great and can lead to serious damage.

[@MrFlyingguy]

just sanded 120 sqm of vertical cladding, it took me about 70sqm to realise the benefits of duct taping a henry hoover (with bag) to the exhaust port of my orbital..... saves times, dust and pads..... extraction is top dog

[@jimrosson6702]

Great video. Thanks for sharing

[@sanjivoberoi5361]

Hey, where's the rest of your video? Would be great to see the finished table. Thanks for the great sanding tips though.

[@ashleycourt.4binsystem2xre62]

Loved that comparison. Loved the Loved the humour too. Great job.

[@itoldbiker]

Very enjoyable video! Not seen any of yours before so thought I’d give this a try. Very good presentation and nice friendly manner, and both informative and entertaining. Subscribed and will def be back for more. 👍🏻

[@bashkillszombies]

The first upgrade I'd consider is opening the machine up and finding out why it's so loud.

[@user-st7wb3yf3d]

I prefer using a card scraper as you really get the feel of the work, and I find it much quicker too.

[@mickleblade]

I'd recommend the JSP Power cap powered respirator, as a glasses wearer, they don't fog up either.

[@SpireUtd]

You got me, saying you'd binned the table top wood 😮 ! ? 😂 Disapointed no hand sanding test.

[@InnerPeaceDiaries]

Great video! Thanks for those tests!! Really explained a lot of my observations while refining a set of night tables for the first time. Cheers!

[@OddJobFix]

Good test, great info. I like to do some hand sanding with the grain in between some of the grit changes and inspect. I think Stumpy should watch this.

[@lagunafishing]

And when you finish all that sanding and faffing about, raise the grain by wetting it with mineral oil prior to a final scraping.

[@gurnovs]

Went to this video right from Van Niestat’s “10 forbidden practices in a workshop”. N1 being “Do not lend your tools. You will not get it back” Thanks for the confirmation

[@northernworks]

Haha, it’s a universal truth

[@video-carl]

Great video - thanks

[@johndonegan8110]

Scrapers are great SOMETIMES! I find them too fickle- sometimes great sometimes get marks or slight tear out on difficult grain. Then you have to sand to fix it. I choose to battle with sanding

[@douglasfeilen4344]

Try adding a cyclone to your vacuum cleaner.

[@northernworks]

Good shout

[@schechnera]

Great video! I can't say I'm really surprised by the results, but it does at least give me an excuse to save up for a Mirka and a good dust extractor. Subscribed!

[@ruzziasht349]

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="229">3:49</a> 14 passes vs 17 passes is a 21.5% improvement - that's massive!

[@placebomandingo2095]

I find that sanding with slight pressure on the side of the disc that is turning away from you gets better results than pushing straight down and riding on a layer of dust. The foam pad has enough give to prevent gouging if you have an appropriate grit. And follow up with a card scraper. That technique also allows you to sand mostly in the direction of the grain, rather than crosscutting the surface, which causes problems with stains and varnish. I'm a retired painter, and have been obsessed with optimizing surface preparation for 40 years.

[@user-oe1mb9hu9i]

You'd be surprised how much more efficient using a sander FLAT is and how better the finish is. slight pressure (however slight) gives you a VISUAL result, but it also creates gouges no matter what you think. If you're painting walls it may be OK, but for smaller surfaces (all surfaces) this isn't the way to go if you want a top result, ans it's not any faster. Because you can see what and where you've sanded, isn't faster or better in anyway.

[@placebomandingo2095]

Well if it's no matter what I think then I'll leave the floor to you and get back to sanding.

[@user-oe1mb9hu9i]

@@placebomandingo2095 Do as you please mate. Just trying to help you with your sanding but apparently the saying: "You can't teach and old dog new tricks" is true. Think about it what you are doing with the pressure and WHY it sands where you apply the pressure and WHY it doesn't sand where you do NOT apply the pressure. End of.