Sansui AU 11000 Rebuild Part 1

[@PeriodWoodworker]

I have just found your channel and watched many of your videos. Just starting on this series. I love that you do shorter videos and not these 30, 45 or 1 hour plus productions. I also love that you show some actual work and not always the finished products. I am trying to teach myself and these really help. Thanks for sharing, Steve

[@raygianelli3612]

Thanks Steve! I try to keep the videos short because when I was learning this stuff I found that I didn't absorb much after about 15-20 minutes. I just hope everyone understands that it can take hours to find some of these troubles!

[@santospoland]

What a beautiful piece of hardware and I am talking inside and out. They don't make 'em like this anymore! I am glad you are not doing 2 hour long videos, getting the core of what is done is enough to wet the palette as it were. I will pay close attention to what you recommend and see if I can take those concepts to what I am working on - doing research on the side to learn why you make the choices you do. I look forward to study what you do carefully. Thanks again Ray, this looks like an epic series!

[@gime3steps]

Happy Independence Ray, thanks for doing the video on the Sansui

[@robertplayer846]

It is nice to see some one else elbows deep in a unit on the 4th. Glad I wasn't the only one. I have been enjoying your videos. Thanks for all the useful tips. As a hobbyist they are most helpful. I became quite stumped today on a technics 5350 receiver. I started an AK post. No replies as of now. Probably not the best timing with the holiday. If you have time and can shed some light on the matter that would be great. No worries if not. It is somewhat of a head scratcher. Thanks again.

[@raygianelli3612]

I replied to your post.

[@josephlalock8378]

you guys aren't the only ones. i was working on an sx-780 :)

[@raygianelli3612]

@@josephlalock8378 A fellow glutton for punishment! :)

[@syhi7971]

What a great project. This channel is as good as sansui's channels ;)

[@raygianelli3612]

Thanks Sy! But to be clear, are we talking Sansui's left channel or right? 😁

[@herbward5240]

Just about all of the PNP small signal , and dual PNP transistors in that vintage of equipment can be problematic. And then there is the series of Hitachi NPN transistors develop the issues that Ray mentions. Specific devices are often mentioned in the popular DIY audio forums.

[@doctorcircuit5338]

In a pinch I've gutted out the original filter caps and mounted the new ones inside if you can find the correct values that will fit

[@raygianelli3612]

This one was a bear due to not only the height requirements but the lead spacing. And these days screw mount capacitors are getting crazy expensive. Luckily I got the ones I used at a closeout price.

[@Luke-12V]

Cool ,hi ray

[@bernhardmichaelfux308]

Your soldering is a disaster! When you are so clumsy, you definitely need to fixate the board you are working on. I have the same issue with soldering because my fingers /Hans are totally numb from spine damage, but I solved this problem by fixating the boards when I work on them... It still is a pain in the A**, but it works!

[@santospoland]

on the pad lift, I wonder if the solder sucker might have contributed or if the tip of the same was tad too hot or if dwell time was too long or if the PCB is simply aging. I thought I would just put this out here but looks like you dealt with it pretty quickly so it mustn't have been that bad.

[@raygianelli3612]

Here's the issue; a printed circuit board is a piece of non-conductive material with a thin sheet of copper glued to it. Over the years the glue loses some of its adhesive properties and the traces become fragile. My mistake was not making sure that the transistor lead legs were bent in a way that wouldn't push against the trace as I seated it. A bit difficult with a 5 legged double transistor!

[@Alex-yl5jt]

I am loving your videos. I Tend to use high heat epoxy when a trace lifts to secure it back on to the board. I realise that in this case the crimped legs probably act to take the stress off the weight of the component and with the other side soldered it kind of clamps it down naturally, I know it is a case by case basis but what is your favourite method of re-securing traces like the one in this video? Not worry about it too much, try to glue it back or even use rivets to make a robust repair? I am liking rivets now as they give a very strong repair, but they are kind of ugly. would love to hear your thoughts here or maybe in a future video, I think many of us amateurs come across this and may be helped by your knowledge.

[@raygianelli3612]

I tend to use component leads to fix broken traces, Alex. Whenever I solder in a component with hefty leads I keep the clipping for this kind of thing. I do keep old business cards for mixing up small batches of epoxy.

[@jacksterslife]

my dads has the same one AU-11000. that needs this restoration because the light doesn’t not turn green but no repair shops want to do it and was wondering where you get all the parts?

[@raygianelli3612]

There are many lists on audio forums that list approved substitutes for obsolete transistors. Many PNP small signal transistors can be replaced by the 2SA992, and many NPN small signal transistors can be replaced by the 2SC1845. Best to get these from reputable vendors such as Mouser, Digikey and other large distributors. You may find the exact part you need on eBay, but beware as there a many counterfeits sold there. Most shops don't do restoration due to the large amount of work involved, which would result in a bill that could finance an emerging nation.

[@shoaibzahir1950]

Hi, This is a query on Voltage selection. The unit is a Sansui AU 11000, and I am fortunate to have a friend in US who helped get this unit to India. Understand that I have to change the Voltage to a 220/240 volts which is the standard here and also replace a fuse with the apt reading. But I am unable to figure out 'how' though I see a selector switch which is currently set at 120 Volts. Please help.

[@raygianelli3612]

Hi Shoaib. In the one I just did you can see the voltage selector switch. With the bottom cover removed, it is located to the right of the last filter capacitor near the back panel. Please note that there were 2 models made, one export model with adjustable AC voltage and one that didn't. You can see it just behind the transformer in video Part 2 at about the 17 minute mark. HTH, Ray

[@scrappy7571]

COOL! Ray on board f-2568, what series are those 2 larger blue/gold caps? I see those used on power supplies, I have been using UPW or UPM when available.

[@raygianelli3612]

Those are Panasonic FM series. Been using them for years with good results.

[@David..R]

Hi Ray, I'm currently working on a AU-217 II. Replacing the TO-3 output transistors as one had a short. I've replaced 12 fuse resistors that were out of tolerance. I've found corrosion on MV-12 that separated one lead from the board due to glue used to secure the electrolytic. I've replaced the MV-12 with 2 1N4148 in series on both channels. Do you have any suggestions on a good method to remove the glue off the board? Thanks and I really enjoy your content!

[@raygianelli3612]

I've been soaking cotton balls (cut in half) in acetone and laying them on the glue. Then after a few minutes grab them with hemostats and rub the glue away. Takes time, patience and most importantly, ventilation!

[@David..R]

@@raygianelli3612 Okay, I'll give that a shot! Thanks again.

[@insaf6093]

Hi ray I m abdullah from india i have Sansui amplifier how to repair

[@raygianelli3612]

Abdullah, is this a partial question? What model Sansui, and what is it doing or not doing?