Santa Cruz Surfing The Hook over head 11-4-2016

[@tomandalbert]

I surfed the Hook, as I knew this break in the early '70. After Vietnam and I came home with a bankroll after working in an Iron Oar Mine, Mt. Newman Australia. I was a once a kid from Santa Barbara. Now as then I hate war but served my country when I was called. I was parked in the lot above and treated it like my home. I swept the asphalt picked up litter and talked to the nice neighbor lady next to the cliff and the pines you used their root to hold on to climb down to the rocky reef of a beach below. I had a black Belgium Shepard named Punch that would go head first straight down. I see on google maps it is quite different from today. I would use profanity to describe what I think of it today but my disappointment with California is "not" why I comment. One morning I awoke to what sounded like a freight train. I fed and watered Punch. Suited up and headed out in the dark and down the cliff. Up and down the cliff punch would go entertaining himself as I waxed and paddled out for the best day of my life. The swells were dual overhead and building and building. A fast-moving low-pressure front was the cause I was informed after leaving the water. I was the only Surfer to make it outside that morning. I watched others one by one get washed back in that day. I am going to tell you about only one ride that day, the first until I had had my fill. I made it way outside as was my practice to time and count. I had to keep going out, way out. I decided at daybreak it was time to fish or cut bait. I fished. I took the drop and the lip looked ready to section. I pulled a trick I learned watching Ben Aipa in Hawaii and back at the lip sucked up all the energy in my thighs, hung on at the lip as my speed built and as the lip shot over my shoulder I moved into position at the face as I was shower curtained and deep in the green room. I thought for sure the ride was short lived. I was in too deep and as luck would have it the wave sectioned right where I had been. I was still on the move and deep like a tunnel rat in Nam Flashlight and 45 in hand ready to fight it out. It was like King Neptune spat me, a cherry pit, out. I aimed for the bottom turn of my life looking at the cliff and all the people watching the dawn and me in the spotlight. Before long I kicked out and went back for more. Not one other surfer made it out that day while I was there. Many tried. I splurged that day and went to my favorite diner. Something other than a $1.00 a day meal. I was so hungry. As I came in everyone was cheering and Chanting “Aipa Aipa Aipa.” Little did they know it was a homeless Veteran had just shown them how it was done. A retired firefighter offered me his duplex for $60k. And the nice grandma that fed me gave you all safe access. I can tell you the true story of the origin of the name the Hook but that’s for another day. You can have California. I am happy in the Midwest and retired from the USPS and a regular at the VA until Trump takes that away. Don’t buy his “he loves the Veteran BS” or he would have been one.

[@5StarAlcatraz]

Mahalo for your service man. Been surfing NorCal since the 80s. The scene has changed so much even since then. Too many people in the water, lack of surf etiquette, lots of bad vibes from locals at the Hook and other breaks and getting worse. I've attempted to quit surfing due to the commercial hype and crowds over the years but keep going back (can't get rid of the surfing itch).

[@sam61480]

Heck of a story, you have a way with words. Thank you for your service.

[@ponolovefarms3926]

Cool story until you went to total ding dong. How’s that potato head working out for ya?

[@Joneshing]

...... We ever gonna get that story about why the Hook was called the Hook?

[@jojotamayoayo1709]

Nice sets coming in that day.

[@zackmeers3567]

👍🏼

[@djrxmx]

I don't think I've ever seen a lineup that big depicting Santa Cruz surfing video footage.

[@static-remission27]

Bowlhog