Sapphire Plus speeds

TwoTrees Sapphire Plus with 10k acceleration and 300mm/s

[@midoriFPV]

is that klipper or duet? are you using stock moter or ldo nema17 another one xy?

[@TheDropYouNeed]

would be interesting to know

[@midoriFPV]

@@TheDropYouNeed yes

[@thedanishmaker9490]

That is Klipper. All motors (exept for the e-stepper) is Stock :-)

[@Nobody-Nowhere]

This is nice, for the price.. the frame is really good. I have not even bothered to tune it, as it printed so fast straight out of the box. But planning on going with klipper and getting it to speeds like these.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

The frame is rock solid, yes. But the Good stops there in my opinion. The Y-rails binds and can’t be calibrated to fix it because the top frame is not squared :-)

[@AlexChangYuan]

@@thedanishmaker9490 Yes, my plus suffers from the same problem. The bottom is not squared at all. It would be much better if the cube is all built by 4020 extrusions.

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

klipper makes this easy, soon well, have most printer printing at these speed easily

[@thedanishmaker9490]

I would not say that 10k acceleration is “easy” - it is obtainable for many printers, yes... But not easy :-)

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

@@thedanishmaker9490 agreed

[@ErMigens]

Yo acabo de comprar una SP5 V3 y sigue teniendo ése ruido a >290 mm/s. Es una pena que vengan así de serie...

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@ErMigens turn off stealthchop, then you’re free of the Sound 😃

[@ErMigens]

@@thedanishmaker9490 entiendo que éso es cambiando el firmware, no? Porque del firmware oficial, no veo ésa opción. Aunque para mi no es difícil tratar con Arduino, lo uso mucho... Pero pensé que "de momento no haría falta". Gracias por tu respuesta.

[@ErMigens]

Vale, ya leí la documentación... (Hace mil años que no toco el tema) Para desactivar stealthchop hay que introducir el comando "M569 S0 X Y". Activar = M569 S1 X Y Desactivar = M569 S0 X Y Gracias por la información de nuevo... Muchas gracias de verdad.

[@impyy101]

I just ordered the 1.1 version and I would really love to see a tutorial on how you got your machine to work like that.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

The short answer; Klipper. And then it is “just” a matter of calibration and trail and error :-)

[@jangatzke3736]

@@thedanishmaker9490 Does the original display work with klipper? Can you share your klipper config oder did you just use the example for the robin nano?

[@gangsterHOTLINE]

@@jangatzke3736 It's my understanding that Klipper only works out of the box with 12864 LCD displays. I had a rough time getting used to Klipper controlling everything from my laptop, especially the things I normally do very quickly on the fly with an LCD.

[@jangatzke3736]

​@@gangsterHOTLINE This is what I read, too. Just wanted to be sure I did not miss something. Just built another printer with klipper and realized how bad marlin is in comparison. Perhaps headless is the way to go. :D

[@SolarLightCap]

Fantastic performance you have there. I use Dragon HF and Orbiter but if I go this fast one axis stops - misses steps 100% I suppose. What Vref do you use? Is it UART mode on drivers?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Thank you. I use 0.9 and yes, TMC2208 in UART :-)

[@musicore1944]

i tried to use x n y z endstop , cable ok, fluidd said x endstop triggered. how you connect the endstop cable using 2pin on SKR board?

[@PaoloTrianni]

Very impressive.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Thanks :-) I don’t Think this is the limit. I have s few things in the mail so that I can hopefully get it to run faster :-)

[@catalinalb1722]

Hi, is everything ok with the saphire plus? I do consider buying one despite the bad reviews out there.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Naah. TBH it is a pretty shi**y printer out of box. The hotend is pure garbage. And I have spend DAYS of calibrating the frame and alignment of it and the rails - and it is still not perfect. With that Said; after this it is a really capable machine and I dont Think this is it’s limit. Right now my part cooling is just not sufficient - so I have redesigned the part cooling duct so that I Can use 2 x 5015 blowers instead of the Stock 4010 :-)

[@F2_CPB]

@@thedanishmaker9490 is there some corexy you would recommend for that price?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@F2_CPB Not any I have personal experience with. But people are saying that the Elf Pro printer (similar pricing) is a bit better Regarding both the hotend and the abillity to calibrate everything :-)

[@ColaBoxNET]

Impressive result!!! is it still original linear rails? I feel kind of vibration sound...but maybe steppers. what lubricant are you using if any? I have ordered all new rails for my Sapphire Pro, original got very bad very fast....:) thanks for. sharing so mach info.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Thank you! :-) The vibration Sound was due to I failed to disable stealthchop. It resonate like a maniac When going those speeds :-) My rails are still original, yes, and they feel like they should :-) I am currently using super lube as that is the only thing i have in hand. When I am done i Will find some thick ptfe oil - should induce less drag on the bearings :-)

[@ColaBoxNET]

@@thedanishmaker9490 thanks

[@ameliabuns4058]

Those fans are ear piercing! So are those steppers! Wish you showed results

[@Karlostavitc]

Willing to share your klipper printer.cfg?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

When I have everything setup, yes :-) There still is some minor flaws that has to be fixed. But just received the last of the stuff so I have some measuring to do :-)

[@sergio_2a]

Great modification! Which fanduct are you using?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Thank you.! Originally i started with a duct/Mount called “Sapphire Afterburner” (a copy of the Voron Afterburner design). But then i needed more cooling so I have redesigned it to House 2 x 5015 blower fans. It is still kind of work in progress. It works and all But have some minor flaws. Have just made a V1.2 that I am going to test tomorrow :-)

[@sergio_2a]

@@thedanishmaker9490 Nice! I'm just looking for a fanduct for an E3D V6. I don't know if your design supports this hotend, if it does and you want to share the stl I'll be happy to test it.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@sergio_2a Unfortunately it does not since I am using the rigid Mount on the Dragon hotend. If i find the time for it, I Can remix this design for it though. Just wont make any promises :-)

[@Qilas1]

@@thedanishmaker9490 I'm just about to get a dragon for my sapphire, is this design available on thingiverse or something similar? I'd love to make one!

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@Qilas1 Congrats on the hotend - You'll be happy with it I'm sure :-) My design is on thangs.com - but I am currently revising it since some 5015 blower fans hit the pulley where the x-endstop is. So wait a week or so, then I will upload a revised version :-)

[@magiclay]

you add direct extruder mod?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Yes, it has a Sherpa Mini extruder right over the hotend :-)

[@plixplux]

@@thedanishmaker9490 Cool! I've been looking at this one, would you still recommend it?

[@stefanfredin7120]

​ @The Danish Maker I'm about to finish building my new sapphire pro today (manifactured in april 2021). Should I be worried about the hot end cooling fan still being that tiiiiny little fan? Do you know of any mod to replace it with a 40x20?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

That depends on the speeds you are running. The Stock fans are allright for normal speeds. But with the speeds i am running they are No Good :-) I dont know of any 4020 fan mods unfortunately :-)

[@stefanfredin7120]

@@thedanishmaker9490 i don't mean the part cooling, i mean the fan to cool down the hotend and prevent heatcreep!

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@stefanfredin7120 Oh. Well… The model I have used a 40mm fan for the hotend. And that is plenty fine :-) I use a 40mm @ 50% fine and I’ve never had heat creep issues even though I have my printer enclosed in a cabinet reaching 55c :-) But I never print PLA. So if you print PLA my solution probably wont work for you :-)

[@erdemokkes]

What is your hardware setıp(upgrades mods)

[@thedanishmaker9490]

I have changed the mainboard to a SKR V1.3, hotend to a Dragon HF, Sherpa Mini extruder. Think that is it :-)

[@erdemokkes]

@@thedanishmaker9490 will you share all modifications for us :). And why skr why not raspberry pi lastly is this v1.1?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Yes, I Will… But I have a rather Big change on its Way. Some things didn’t work out as hoped for. So I had to re-design “a few things” on the printer 🙈 Well… I have a Raspberry Pi connected also. But that can’t replace the mainboard. The RPI is connected to the mainboard. That’s How you run Klipper :-)

[@thedanishmaker9490]

And No, my Sapphire Plus is the 1.0 :-)

[@erdemokkes]

@@thedanishmaker9490 ok sorry ı m newbie for klipper. And ı think you added for klipper for skr1.3 (only skr). Can a higher version be installed instead of skr 1.3 for when u share upgrades and files? would there be an advantage

[@computertecky4744]

i just got one wht did you do for the upgrades that you have on it

[@thedanishmaker9490]

I just printed Them out of ABS. i have changed the mainboard, hotend, fanduct and firmware.

[@Karlostavitc]

@@thedanishmaker9490 Which mainboard are you using?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@Karlostavitc Just a SKR V1.3 with TMC2208 (non-UART) :-)

[@kunu2009]

what treatment have you done on the glass bed?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

I’m not using a glass bed But a PEI Flex plate :-)

[@kunu2009]

@@thedanishmaker9490 where can i get 1mtr x 1mtr pei sheet?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@kunu2009 I don’t know? Try AliExpress maybe? 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@kunu2009]

ok. thank you

[@jaydavis5146]

@The Danish Maker do you get vertical ringing when printing in the Y direction (front to back direction) when printing at higher speeds?? I'm thinking it's inherent in the printer design I also use klipper (fully tuned) with a dragon hot-end

[@thedanishmaker9490]

I’m not completely sure i understand your question. But yes I have ringing regardless of direction. But I have tuned with and ADXL345 and the result is now much better :-)

[@jaydavis5146]

@@thedanishmaker9490 ah ok yes that's my next step i print at slower speeds than you closer to 120mm/s - 150mm/s and was able to resolve a lot of my ringing using the 3HUMP_EI style of input shaper.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@jaydavis5146 I usually print at around 150mm/s also @ 5k accel. For me MZV did the trick. But that is with the Stock top frame. I have a design almost ready to replace the Stock top frame :-)

[@jaydavis5146]

@@thedanishmaker9490 sounds intresting can't wait to see!

[@berendlucasvanderweide]

What you mean is probably not vertical rining, but VFA, it is more common with coreXY printers. I'm using klipper on the sapphire plus now, i also noticed the extreme CFA on the Y axis.. Replaced the steppers with some 42byghw811 motors i had, it drasticaly reduced the VFA, but at 150mm+ speeds it gives a loud resonance through the printer. Also tried some 0,9 degree motors, but they where louder than the 1.8 degree steppers. I''m using the stock board, 2208's in UART. (and stealthmode).

[@tonim.9460]

Hey, are you using a dragon hotend?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Hey, Yeah, a TriangleLab Dragon High Flow :-)

[@tonim.9460]

@@thedanishmaker9490 Haha nice. I bought the standard version and I want to install it on a sapphire pro. Do you have any issues with printing PLA?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@tonim.9460 Ehm... Yep... I can’t print PLA at all since my enclosure gets to 50-55c. Sooo... 🙈🙈😂😂

[@PrintermanBln]

And the result?

[@thedanishmaker9490]

I had to stop the print due to lack of cooling, so the result was pretty mediocre. So I have designed a new cooling duct I am going to test in the comming days :-)

[@ccdanieldb]

@@thedanishmaker9490 Any chance you can post the Cooling duct design to thingiverse.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@ccdanieldb it is uploaded to Thangs, But have not tested it yet. Will probably do so tonight :-)

[@asdwwhite]

Is hotend stock?

[@maciejmatuszek4902]

Nope

[@drdrell3847]

Такой же хочу

[@peplegal8253]

I'm in doubt between a X5SA-Pro and this one. X5SA seems easier to install plates for thermal isolation (motors outside)...this one must be tricky (motors get hot as well). How do you print high temp materials ?

[@plixplux]

There are acrylic enclosures you can buy for these (but I find them kinda pricey at about 180€). Should probably be noted though that both the Sapphire SP-5 and the Tronxy X5SA-Pro are to be considered somewhat of an ongoing project. Had I payed a bit more attention, I would have opted for a delta style printer atm.

[@peplegal8253]

@@plixplux : Thanks for replying. A lot of water gone under the bridge since I've started learning about 3D printers. And I've decided to buid my own printer, with every part carefully chosen. From AliExpress I've already purchased the motherboard and drivers, all the motors, and all the metal supports. The linear rails are on the way. The frame and the bed I will buy locally. BTW. Delta printers are not a good choice...keep with the traditional CoreXY, but with improvements (like 3 motors for the bed auto levelling, carbon fiber for the X axis, ultra lightweight hot end, 0.9 degrees step motors for the X and Y motion...and finally Klipper as the control software).

[@BigDan1190]

I get those exact same noises on the fast large travel movements (such as when moving from the purge line to start the print), do we think it is the drivers or the rails? I'm also looking at swapping out the mainboard and PSU fans at some point, hopefully can quiet this beast down a tad.

[@thedanishmaker9490]

Disable Stealthchop 😀

[@BigDan1190]

@@thedanishmaker9490 Thank you!! Very quick reply, i appreciate it. I will test now :)

[@thedanishmaker9490]

@@BigDan1190 keep me posted :-)