158 Compound Lens and Universal Engraving Nozzle

[@gordonwilliams7289]

Thank you so much...I'm going through my unit by watching your videos. Take care.

[@dennismcleod9652]

Thanks Russ. My kit arrived today. Now sourcing the papers so I can get started on this project.

[@xKatjaxPurrsx]

This is an amazing episode, so much valuable knowledge compressed into 38 minutes. Thanks Russ! Now to replace all those nasty honeycombs with steel plates....

[@hopelessnerd6677]

You, sir, are a wizard! You really need to get a pointy hat. Love these videos.

[@class3rp824]

Hi Russ I think this is what you mean thanks Ross

[@balshazer]

Superb information & video Russ. These really are a great resource and help for China blue owners. Thank you very much. Cheers for now Mike

[@derrickstewart5554]

Hello Mr. Russ. Is it possible you can provide instructions on how to build the vacuum table that was in this video. That would be a handy piece of equipment to have for paper or cardboard cutting or engraving.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Derrick Just add your disguised email address to another comment and I will send the dxf file to you. I will also delete your comment/email address from public view Best wishes Russ ps it can only be used for engraving NOT cutting

[@celtdragon1962]

Russ, thanks again for all you do! I have ordered the lens kit. You may have just solved my need to get dot size below 0.5mm for engraving my fine line work on watch dials. Rob (the 24K gold lens guy)

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Rob Depending on the power of your laser you should be able to easily achieve a 0.1mm (0.004") lines. Thin lines are easier to produce than dots and you may be able to get as thin as 0.05mm (0.002") if you run at a higher speed. I was really disappointed with the conclusions for gold but my copper mirrors are still going strong All best wishes Russ

[@celtdragon1962]

I'm not disappointed with the copper lenses, I can buy a bag of copper lenses for what gold plating solution costs. ;) The substrate I will be using this on is made specifically for co2 lasers, I will let you know how it works out.

[@celtdragon1962]

BTW, sent you note about blue head replacement mount and parts as mentioned in the PDF. Hopefully you get it.

[@neatpleats11]

Fantastic. Loved every minute of this video. It was a very long time coming. Thanks so much Russ for your hard work in teaching us.

[@matthewnedwards2]

Thoroughly enjoying your videos. I am learning quite a bit and very much appreciate you taking the time to post these! Do you by any chance have another name for the Beer Mat? I have spent many hours trying to source some in the US. I have tried beer mat, coaster mat, mountboard and even high grammage paperboard. While I am learning quite a bit about how they make paper I just cannot seem to find a supplier of the material that does not require a ~$200 bulk purchase.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Matthew Try this as a starting point on Amazon.co.uk www.amazon.co.uk/Super-480gsm-Mounting-Models-Sheets/dp/B01CK0IBGC?th=1 Best wishes Russ

[@matthewnedwards2]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you, I really appreciate all of your help.

[@mikealrichards508]

Another great video Russ !! thank you again !!! Just ordered my kit from Cloudray !!

[@neatpleats11]

I very much loved the white vacuum table and I will be looking forward to the plans for that.

[@oleglego3655]

I always wondered if you could stack co2 laser lenses

[@neatpleats11]

I am glad I waited to buy lenses until you came out with this video. Sorry, I am typing this before watching the whole video and I know I do have a 130 watt laser but I do intend to experiment with this.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Scott I cannot recommend it for powerful lasers because I know it may be difficult for you to achieve good results. If all else fails, finally go to your USER tab and set your machine to Special Mode and use a facula setting of 50%. This will effectively halve the power of your laser and may allow you to get better results. Best wishes Russ

[@phil7791]

Is the gold head assembly in the video a K Series head? That's what I have and would like to get your compound lens kit.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Phillip Sorry that gold head is not the Ktype. The compound lens is embedded in a nozzle which has an M22 male thread mounting. and will not work with your head. BUT all may not be doom and gloom. Send me your disguised email address in another Comment and I will reply. You can send me some pictures of your machine (there are several different K40 designs) and I will see what may be possible. I will also delete your comment/email address Best wishes Russ

[@terrypewing]

I love the photo of the fox. Can I find it online?

[@Leb.Mountain]

hello Sir. first let me thank you so much for all your information you gives us , i have a question i hope you answer me , when you install the compound head and lenses did you remove any other lens from the tube , like if i have my 4 inch FL lens up in the tube should i remove it and then use just the 2 lenses came with the compound kit ? thanks

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Jay The lens tube must be empty so that the first thing the beam sees is the compound lens. Best wishes Russ

[@Gaatech]

great video Russ are they going to do additional lens tubes and standard nozzles so you can keep the lens in the tube

[@SarbarMultimedia]

All the additional bits that are not normally available for sale on aliexpress etc are now available at Cloudray. If they do not have what you need, contact them and send a picture. They are most obliging. They realize there is real business to be had from us hobbyists and I have yet to hear of anyone who has been disappointed with what they have received. An honest Chinese vendor??? This is a real rarity. Best wishes Russ

[@neatpleats11]

I am now 12 minutes into the video and so excited to watch this video. I feel like its been a long time since you went on holiday. LOL

[@ianstewart-koster9982]

Very good analysis, Russ, and results! Thanks very much!

[@jimcoogan1529]

Hi Russ. Big fan of your videos. I noticed you have the 50W Chinese laser. I had a fire in my laser and need to replace the Y axis belt that the cutting head is attached to. Do you know what the specs for that belt are? I have been looking all over for a parts list for the machine so I can replace parts. The switch for air assist cut out in the middle of a cut and set the plywood on fire which cause a little damage. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Jim I bought my original replacement belt from www.beltingonline.com/3mm-htd-timing-belts-4573 Belt no 1569-3M But when I upgraded to a harder material (the current white urethane belt) I used this 1 x AT3 Standard Breco® Open Length Timing Belt (1742) = £34.50 Width in mm 15 Length in metres 2.000 Nylon covering Not Required Tension Cords Steel Material Standard 590 White PU Best wishes Russ

[@ianbelward2337]

Just checking I understand the bottom lens is convex and has to go in a specific way. Is the top lens the same way? Just noticed it wasn’t really noted so maybe it doesn’t matter on the top lens?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Ian Go to the Cloudray website where there is a video and drawings if you scroll down the webpage I am sure this will answer all your questions www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/co2-laser/products/cloudray-n04-universal-compond-engraving-nozzles Best wishes Russ

[@ActiveRendering]

Hi Russ. Thanks for all your great videos and all your tips. I'm new to hobby laser engraving and your channel helped me a lot to get started. I love the A4 vacuum table in this video because I want to do a lot of paperwork. Is there any chance to get datails about and the cutting templates for that table to rebuold it?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Do you happen to be a clairvoyant? I ask this because at this very moment I am in the middle of rendering a video on the vacuum table Mk2 which will be published a few hours from now. All the information about obtaining the cutting file is covered in the video. Best wishes Russ

[@ActiveRendering]

Hi Russ Thanks for the fast reply. Quite happy . No I'm not a clairvoyant but seems I just step in the right time. Im currently testing different methods for a good paper cut and engraving for the upcoming marriage of my nieche... Btw. a have a 50W (so named...) china laser (this one: www.ebay.de/itm/NEW-300mmX500mm-50W-CO2-USB-laser-engraving-machine-Lasergravierer/372443426005) and after the first week of installing and testing I'm really happy about the machine and the possibilities. Best wishes and keep up the good work! Sascha P.S. Is there another way to get in contact with you than via commenting a video?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@ActiveRendering Your link no longer works See this for card cutting kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZCVf4J5paZ2jMU If you add another comment with your email address I will answer and then delete your comment Best wishes Russ

[@raymondmckaig701]

Great video. Is there a UK distributor for the compound lens?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Raymond The lens kit is available from www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/co2-laser/products/compound-universal-engraving-nozzle?variant=13488869867571 Scroll down the web page for lots of data. Best wishes Russ

[@raymondmckaig701]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thanks Russ

[@_tom]

Hi Russ, I was wondering could you tell me which lens you would recommend for cutting up to 6mm ply. It is to be used with an 80 watt lightblade machine from thinklaser. I'm sure I have read recommendations in the comments of your other videos but have managed to confuse myself as to where I saw the info. I shall also be purchasing your compound lens set up from cloudray and wondered if the included lenses can also be used for cutting? Many thanks for all the work you do in these videos.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Tom As you probably realize, I ignore advice and myths and go about finding things out for myself. I am fortunate enough to have time and derive great pleasure from "playing " with my machines. Although there is a fairly simple answer to your question, my experimentation and observations have left quite a few doubts about whether we have a full understanding of this technology. In general I have found that a cheap plano convex lens flat side down is best for cutting. and although you would expect a "sharper" 1.5"lens to work best on your sort of material thickness, it turns out that a 2" lens seems to be best. Although a cheap Chinese PVD lens works very well, the gallium arsenide seems to be about 20% more efficient for cutting. I have just acquired some more GaAs lenses from Cloudray and will be doing further ZnSe /GaAs cutting tests in the near future. Check your 2" lens, because usually Thinklaser supply that as gallium arsenide already (it will be black and you will not be able to see through it.). The compound lens has a cheap PVD 1.5" plano convex lens followed by a more expensive USA CVD 2.5" meniscus lens. Yes the universal nozzle that the compound lens is housed in will take the !8mm diameter lenses singly if you wish to experiment. Best wishes Russ

[@_tom]

Hi Russ, thank you for such a quick response! Yes I was lucky enough to discover your videos a couple of years ago when I first got my machine, your maverick experiments have undoubtably helped myself and so many other laser enthusiasts gain a far greater understanding of these machines than we could have otherwise. I was excited when you also started using the lightblade as it meant I could see it put through some real world tests by someone with a far greater mind than mine for these things. My own background is as a graphic designer and illustrator so not technical or science based at all. Regarding the lenses, my supplied ones are now deteriorating and struggling to cut through 5mm birch ply at full power and 12mms, hence the need to replace them. I was originally supplied with the 4", 2.5" and 2" lenses, looking at the 2" now and it is indeed a very dark mirrored lens whereas the other 2 are transparent yellow lenses. So to recap, for my needs I should be looking out for another 2" GaAs plano convex lens for the best cutting results? I will purchase this along with your compound lens system and a new standard nozzle from cloudray, after viewing your previous videos on nozzles I discovered the aperture on mine was close to 4mm and not the 2.5mm it should be. Thank you again for all the great work you do with these videos, it's very much appreciated. Best wishes. Tom.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@_tom Hi Tom with your background as a graphic designer I wonder if you can answer a question that I am having difficulty with. There are all sorts of dithering techniques which I presumed were developed to suit specific printing processes. We are only capable of putting down round blackish burnt dots so there must be an optimum dither pattern for out application. Why all the different dither patterns was it really "my pattern is better than your pattern" or are there good technical reasons? I note that all the "big boys" have their own photo editing software which seem to rely on half tone (newsprint) methods. From my research this is just about the worst possible option. The most faithful photo reproduction happens when you have dot for pixel replication. Best wishes Russ

[@_tom]

Hi Russ, as far as my knowledge goes in print terms the dither was used to give the illusion of a better colour palette from the limited number of colours available and avoid colour banding. I've not really looked too much in to the history of it but my guess is the different dithering patterns were developed as printing technologies advanced, possibly with some patterns being specific or copyright to particular printing presses, as in buy our machine because "my pattern is better than your pattern" which you mentioned. These patterns were carried over in to the digital age and reproduced in software but how this relates to producing images from a laser is a bit confusing. You have clearly demonstrated that the best results come from dot for pixel replication, it could be that the designers of the laser software have simply taken what they have seen to be successful for photo editing and printing and assumed that exactly the same methods would work when burning the dot or pattern on the substrate. My guess is it could simply have arisen from the lack of incentive to experiment and discover what specifically works best for this new medium.

[@hanzmaier9847]

Always fun and learning so much. Big thx Russ

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Rene Just remember, it's me that's having the real fun and then more. I love the engineering challenges and the learning opportunities that this technology continues to throw at me. After that, I get to enjoy my second hobby which is video and video editing. It's all win win for me. If you get some pleasure from it as well then that's an added bonus that I had not planned on Best wishes Russ

[@MrSealines28]

Hi Russ Just got the compound less head, but it does not fit the standard laser head (tube) which lens tube do I need, or do I have to get a whole new head, keep up the great work.@@SarbarMultimedia

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@MrSealines28 Hi Jphn Take a look here www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/nozzles-lens-tube There are 3 diameters of lens tube available. 20mm, 24mm and 25mm. It is possible that the thread on your existing lens tube is not compatible www.cloudraylaser.com/products/compound-universal-engraving-nozzle?variant=13488869965875 Scroll down this page and you will see that it requires an M22x1 thread Any of the three lens tubes above will take the M22 thread and if your existing lens tube is one of these external diameters then it is simply a matter of ordering the correct lens tube If you hit more problems just Shout out again Best wishes Russ

[@andykeller8379]

Where can I get a file for the gages you were using? Also this may be a dumb question but where do we get or how do we create a file like you were using to test the dot size?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Andy They can be downloaded from the www.rdworkslab.com forum but if you add your disguised email (johndotsmithatgmaildotcom) to another comment I will send you the files ...and delete your comment. Best wishes Russ

[@patrickdjebar9225]

hello Russ, I heard in the video that you would not suggest to use the kit in a 100W laser, is it correct ?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Patrick That is correct...........sort of. One of the lenses in the compound arrangement is a PVD cheap Chinese lens (the more expensive CVD type is not as good at focusing) Those Chinese lenses have a power limit of 80 watts. So yes you can use it provided you do not run at full power. The second issue is power control. To exploit the ultra small dot capability of the lens system you only need to use LOW power for photo engraving . As the tube power increases (60 watts is an ideal compromise) the ability to control that low power end of the performance range drops off rapidly, it may be absolute crap if you happen to have a genuine Reci power supply because their response capability at low power is abysmal. For example, photo engraving at 200mm/s with 254dpi. This is a dot size of 0.1mm ie 10 dots per mm X 200mm/s = 2000dots per second. That requires a response time of 1/2000= 0.5ms If you look at specifications for all the normal cheap HV power supplies they promise 90% of demand in less than 1ms. In practice most normal power supplies are capable of this 0.5ms response, in fact both my machines can run at 400mm/s. For glass, slate, card,wood or leather photo engraving you will only be using 10 to 20 watts max so yes you can use the compound lens but don't wind the power up and use it for cutting. To test if your power supply is capable of responding, draw a 15mm square and set it to scan mode, Set the line interval to 0.5mm and the speed to 400mm/s Try running the test (on wood or mdf) at just over your lowest run power (maybe 10%) and in 2% increments up to 20%. You will see an abrupt clean STOP to each scan line but what about the STARTS? They should be equally clean and abrupt. If the line starts off weak and build up to full colour within 1 to 5mm then that is your response problem. 1mm at 400m/s= 2,5ms response.. If you then test at 60 or 70% power you will probably find no problem. Best wishes Russ

[@patrickdjebar9225]

@@SarbarMultimediaHi Russ, perfect, crystal clear , just to let you know that I'm very happy with your light lens support, works great and much more easier to adjust than the original one that was a poor quality

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@patrickdjebar9225 Hi Patrick It's always good to hear that you were able to get the sort of benefits I experienced. I am VERY happy with its flexibility and performance. It gets hammered regularly because my step daughter is always using the machine while she is building an engraving business. Best wishes Russ

[@bobmo1969]

hi Russ is this Compound Lens and Universal Engraving Nozzle designed just for doing photos ...having problems engraving vector onto slate ends up like dark and light lines ...put my old lence in .2 and its fine

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi This is absolutely perfect for engraving slate take a look here to see examples of work done with the compound lens. uniquelaserart.co.uk/1_5_shop.html To do text etc just increase the nozzle to work distance to 12mm and add some power. I have done several house and business nameplates on slate.. For text and other vector graphics a 2" lens with 0.15 /0.2mm line interval also works fine. Best wishes Russ

[@bobmo1969]

@@SarbarMultimedia cheers Russ ill give that a shot ...iv put my 2" back on and its alot better ...but ill try again with the 12mm focus

[@jonsaircond8520]

What a fantastic video. Thank you

[@wozart.at-photographyisart4419]

thanks russ, another great video!!

[@morgan462008]

Thanks for the files just brought your kit looks great and good value

[@fishball331]

i got the compund lens set from cloud ray. it fits the threading on my chinese 50 watt laser. do i need the shaft because im seeing people making or 3d printing the shaft?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Hien No.you need nothing more. If the nozzle fits your existing lens holder then that will be fine . You need very little air assist, just a whisper to protect the lens but the focus is quite sensitive. If you are planning to try photo engraving then you really need a special slope gauge running between 10 and 12mm Is your table true to your nozzle to better than 0.5mm everywhere? If you add your disguised email address to another comment (johndotsmithatgmaildotcom) I will send you some data and files to get you started. Bet wishes Russ

[@class3rp824]

hi Russ I don't use you tune for communication and have no idea what i am supposed to do

[@joeeckardt132]

Love the approach, but I'm going to have to use a different mount to fit my head (25mm barrel). Can you say what the final approximate focal length is for the two combined lenses (front of bottom objective to material surface)? Thank you!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Joe. If you want to use the compound nozzle on your existing lens tube I think the answer will be no because your nozzle thread is M25 whereas the compound nozzle is M22. Similarly the standard lens tube I have adopted is 24mm outside diameter and uses 20mm lenses. However all is not lost because there is a solution for you. Cloudray make a 25mm diameter tube that has an M22 thread in the bottom. Take a look at this red tube www.cloudraylaser.com/products/cloudray-hq-co2-laser-head-fit-for-focus-lens-dia-20mm-fl-50-8mm-and-reflective-mirror-dia-25mm?variant=7833933217843 They do not appear to sell the tube on its own but if you write to them inquiring about a compound lens with the red tube to suit your machine, I am sure they will oblige you with a price. The 18mm diameter compound lens set sits down inside the nozzle . the nominal focal distance is 21mm where the focus point is between 10.5 and 11 mm outside the nozzle. Best wishes Russ

[@startinsomethin]

Great videos! Thanks for all these. Will the compound lens kit (with universal nozzle) fit onto a Thunder Nova-35?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Bob . No because the nozzle tread is wrong BUT I have encountered this problem several times and persuaded Cloudray to hold stock of some special lens tubes that will fit your machine and alsohave the correct thread forthe compound lens.. I think your lens tube is 25mm outside diameter. If so then as well as the comoiund lens you can buy this E series lens tube www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/nozzles-lens-tube.. 1/10th the cost of the Thunder laser offering. Best wishes Russ

[@startinsomethin]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thanks Russ, but the link doesn't work right now. But thats good info, thanks! 😎

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Bob Go to cloudraylaser.com and find the CO2 page and then nozzles and lens tubes. Best wishes Russ

[@the-bu3lb]

I know we spoke about this earlier but if I order the correct laser cutting head like the cloudray wsx and upgrade the power supply and tube to a 150w will I be able to cut steel plate im not looking to cut stainless or alum I also don't have a option or the money to buy a machine that's cost 10-30,000 to laser cut metal?

[@thebeststooge]

I will have to order this and it fits on my current tube for the China blue. China blue uses that black tube but uses 18mm lenses like your gold one and mimics the gold one more so, or at least mine does.

[@MartinRoy]

Could it be moisture coming out from heat making paper curl or pop up like you are saying.

[@msidefx1]

Love all your videos. Thanks for sharing! Is there a link to download the drawings for the nozzle gauge? I was not sure how to email you so I thought I would request the drawings here.... I am ordering the compound nozzle kit today. Thanks again for all the great info!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Mark That particular gauge is not posted anywhere but if you wish to add your disguised email (markdot53atgoogglemaildotcom) to another comment I will reply and send you the file. Best wishes Russ

[@beyondhumanfitness1027]

Is it capatable with diode lasers? Or just co2?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Bruce This particular lens system is only suitable for the CO2 laser but it is just a combination of lenses to concentrate the intensity to a very small spoy size I am currently in the process of exploring the diode laser technology in a series called "Diode Lasers---Under the Hood" In this series I am currently working with a 5 watt single diode laser and have experimented with a compound lens to reshape that beam. It may interest you.

[@thebeststooge]

6mm hole isn't that a bit insane for a diameter? I can see why it isn't for cutting but I already am having issues with smoke, from engraving, contaminating my lens and it is 20mm away with a 4mm diameter hole so this is about 10.5mm away and has 2mm larger hole. How does that work to keep the lens clean?

[@vkjnrokis]

super video! Waited results for so long. Keen to experiment. Maybe you could share a link where to order?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Here is the link you requested www.cloudraylaser.com/products/compound-universal-engraving-nozzle?variant=13488869867571 Best wishes Russ

[@MattsWoodwork]

hello just received my compound kit and looks amazing. unfortunately the thread on my laser head is an 18mm thread and the new kit is a 20mm thread (readsail x700 60w) is there an attachment you know of or which laser head would be suitable for the new kit please thanks Matt

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Matt I came across this same issue when someone with a Thinderlaser machine wanted to fit my compound lens instead of the $450 Thunderlaser version. Thread size wrong and 20mm stem. I took one of my standard type C lens tubes and reduced the stem to 20mm diameter and it all worked perfectly for him. I passed this information on to Cloudray who have made some special lens tube to now do that same job for you See www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/nozzles-lens-tube/products/t-series-co2-lens-tube-o-d-20mm This is a 2" focal length lens tube that will take a standard 20mm diameter lens, but you just need it to adapt from 20mm stem to M22 nozzle thread. If there are problems just shout out again Best wishes Russ

[@MattsWoodwork]

@@SarbarMultimedia brill thanks so much for the help I will take a look at that now

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@MattsWoodwork If your lens tube is not 20mm outside diameter then let me know what your diameter is. Scroll down the Cloudray web page for details and dimensions. Best wishes Russ

[@MattsWoodwork]

@@SarbarMultimedia I will have a look and let you know on my return from summer holiday. Thanks again Russ

[@ottosouta7445]

Great as ever, Russ, thanks for the video If I may comment on your vacuum table, you can get better vacuum with a centrifugal rather than axial fans. You are after higher vacuum/pressure, and virtually no air volume. That's where they are better - try it instead of your vacuum cleaner :)

[@russsadler3471]

Hi Otto Yes I am aware that I can get a slightly higher vacuum with a centrifugal fan but they are so much more bulky to mount. It was weekend when I needed this table so I quickly used what I had to hand. Plan A employed a small vacuum cleaner I had in the workshop. It worked perfectly but the stalled airflow was giving the cleaner's motor a VERY hard time and also my ears. Plan B was neater and far less efficient but I had 10 of these fans on the shelf as a left over from a job. I am both a squirrel and a skin flint, so bringing them into use cost me nothing and worked well enough for paper and card. There was also a plan C which involved either a small Gast vac pump or a larger flow rate Edwards unit. It may take very little to turn plan A into Plan C. Plan B was neat, quiet and and at about £2 each if I had to buy the fans is a cheap and adequate solution if others wish to copy. After all, who generally has a couple of vacuum pumps kicking around in their shed? My whole strategy while house training this little Chinese dragon, has been to understand it and spend as little as possible to get a good result. If I had followed the many suggestions I have had in 3 years, I would now have high speed analogue servos with linear encoders, anti backlash rack and pinion drives and a 40 watt RF tube along with the beam combiner, beam collimator and aspheric lenses. Where is the fun and challenge in buying my way out of a problem? Thanks for the suggestion though, it gave me a chance to explain my design decision. Best wishes Russ

[@ottosouta7445]

Hi Russ, thanks for your explanation, I know the feelings, I am also a squirrel. Thought again about the fan bed, if we use blowers in series, it would increase vacuum... Just a thought. I happen to have choice on my shelve, so I may try it one day. cheers otto

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@ottosouta7445 Nice idea. I don't have enough to double up (at present) but if I run a video about how to make it I will buy and extra few fans to adopt your idea and increase the depth a bit as It's no hardship to add another 25mm best wishes Russ

[@sorenac]

Hi Russ, So i was wondering. :D The magnifying glass, that you are using, where is that from and how much does it magnify with? :D Need one for myself and can not seem to find any similar to yours. :) Would a jewelers loupe magnifying glass work? Also the test print that you do on the material, could you perhaps provide the RD works file for it? :) Thanx for explaining everything so well. Im about to recieve my compound kit in a few days and i wanna be ready to go :D

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Soren Yes there are lots of loupes on ebay and I have several different types They are sometimes called linen gauges All these are fine for inspecting dots. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-Metal-Tri-Folding-Handheld-Magnifier-2-LED-Lights-Desktop-Magnifying-Glass/133595118812?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D6f57004101cd495aa14ee60b71b75a08%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D352107630135%26itm%3D133595118812%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20X-Tri-Folding-Desktop-Glass-Magnifier-Portable-for-Repairing-and-Inspection/294095754750?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Dc0ce4ab847564af988162e0066933616%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D133595118812%26itm%3D294095754750%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Foldable-Magnifier-Reading-30X-60X-Magnifying-Glass-Jewelry-Loupe-With-LED-Light/154367371152?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D4055665c63a249ffb40af4bd8c173bf7%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D294095754750%26itm%3D154367371152%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851 Just add your disguised email address to another comment and I will send you the files to make step gauges and also a ramp gauge you will find useful with the compound lens. I will then delete your comment/email address. Best wishes Russ

[@sorenac]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you very much 😁 It's hotstuffc at hotmail com Thanx in advance 😁👌

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@sorenac Hi Soren Is there a typo error in the address because it bounced back to me. Subtract the ++ and this is what I used. hotstuffc++@++hotmaildotcom

[@sorenac]

@@SarbarMultimedia My bad, it was gmaildotcom :)

[@BigMikeMora]

When you buy this kit, does the auto-leveling switch no longer work and is it even needed anymore?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi There is no auto focus switch on my China blue machine but I have got the auto focus facility on my Lightblade machine, but to be honest I took it off almost 3 years ago. It takes too long to set up with all the lens changes I make. I can set the focal point up much quicker and with absolute certainty using either a step gauge for normal cutting or a gently sloping taper gauge that is graduated in 0.1mm steps for setting the compound lens.. There is no reason why you have to remove the auto focus when using the compond lens kit, you will just have to spend time setting it up accurately.. I use the kit most of the time on my China blue machine where I have a motorized table (not a stepper motor) but to make fine adjustment possible on that I have added a little manual turning wheel to one of the lead screws. Best wishes Russ

[@Martin-ll7jc]

Can I ask why use a cheap lens 1.5” why not 1.5” USA bit more expensive but clearer?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Martin Ther is a short answer that caused me to arrive at this combination and a long answer that has taken me several years to unravel the mysteries of laser beam and lenses. The short answer is.my need to create a crisp burnt dot on various materials to satisfybthe needs of photo replication.. Converting coloured/greyscale iphotos into varying density black dots (ditherinbg) means that the quality and resolution of the replication depends on burning a copy of single pixels . If the burnt copy of a pixel is blurred and fuzzy at its edges then the final result will be far from a replication.. To solve this problem the conventional method is to remove image detail with softwares such as ImagR, OneTouch or Photograv etc. This ignores the fundamental priciples by which digital imaging works and produces a cartoon/pencil sketch type of result. To arrive at the weird combination you question, I amassed a huge collection of lenses and set about experimenting with various combinations. (this is all documented in my early RDWorks Leraring Lab videos). My knowledge of optics at that time was less than ankle deep but after hundreds of test combinations. the crispest dot by far was with this combination. Yes I did try the high quality CVD lenses and also the gallium arsenide material. After sevral years of experimenting with lenses and various types of laser beams, I realize that conventional lens theory only works for imaging aplications such as telescopes and cameras etc. For any theory to work, it has to be bounded by limiting conditions and one of those limiting condition is that the light is assumed to be uniformly intense. That means that the non-uniform intensity of laser beam is not subject to the predictionsof lens theory. You must appreciate that focusing an image to capture or project it is completely different to our requirement to focus the INTENSITY of the beam to damage material. Most people assume that they understand the basic priciple of lenses, however stop and think about laser CUTTING a deep parallel kerf in 20mm thick material with a short focus lens......how is that possible ?. Your very reasonable question implies that clarity and cost of a lens is a good property by which to asses it? Have you ever seen a BLACK gallium arsenide lens that you cannot see through? Our perception of lenses is based upon the wave lengths of light we see with our own eyes but seemingly by magic, 10.6micron wavelenth light passes through this black lens because at that frequency the material is transparent. Few laser users ever venture futher than understanding how Lightburn can be used to adjust machine parameters. The science behind the machines and the technology is fascinating. Thanks for the great question and I've not even scratched the surface of the long version.

[@fyrstorm2010]

Another great and informative video.

[@ricardrinaldo4791]

Not sure if you have covered this but did you ever find a good way to protect yourself from reflections. From what I have read the china made laser goggles are crap. The best thing would be if there was some sort of acrylic that filter out the 10600nm light but so far I have not found anything. I just bought a used 100w red/black and I am a bit worried about getting reflections in my eyes. Best regards

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Richard Yes this is well covered but it is easy to explain. The light emitted form the tube is just that , invisible light. It is a light that is coherent ie all the photons are fully synchronized. They travel in the same direction without divergence so there is no incidental light scattering from the beam and if there was an odd photon here and there the energy density is so close to zero it would be harmless.. A rock falling from on high is completely harmless whilst it is falling, it is only when that rock hits something in its way does energy transfer take place and the recipient experiences damage. So it is with the laser beam. It is just a beam of light energy until it hits something solid. As far as this 10.6microm light is concerned there are 3 basic materials it can collide with . The first group is metals. ALL metals will reflect the light to a greater of lesser degree. Copper ,Gold, silver, Aluminium for example are better than 99% efficient reflectors and others may be as low as 60%. That why all mirrors in our machines are metal or metal coated. The second group is very small and contains a few crystalline salts that allow the IR light to pass through . Those materials are used to make our lenses. The third group is EVERYTHING else. Yes everything, including your eyes, skin and clothes. When the IR light hits one of these materials this is like the rock striking. The light energy stimulates the molecules in the surface it strikes, making them vibrate faster and faster. The temperature of a molecule is defined by it vibration activity. The faster the vibration, the hotter the molecules temperature becomes.. The light does not penetrate into the material (that only happens in the crystalline group) it just reacts with the SURFACE. making it hotter and hotter until the material reaches a point where damage or some other change occurs. You will note that ANY material that is not in group 1 or 2 will stop IR light in its tracks and react with it. You do not need special glasses to protect your eyes . This invisible light will react with anything in its way. Just ordinary glasses will stop the rays dead. Glas may be transparent to visible light but it is totally opaque to IR and will just heat up and eventually crack. Most glasses these days have polycarbonate or some other lightweight plastic lenses. You will quickly see a mark forming on the plastic if an unlucky strike does occur. If the lid of your machine is closed you are as safe as houses. Even with the lid open. it is almost impossible to get your eye into the path of the laser beam, your fingers yes ( and ouch that hurts!!). What you must be very careful of is any metal surfaces YOU place in the machine that could exposed to the laser beam and REFLECT at you. Understand what this beam is and respect it. Yes, it can on occasions be dangerous to you if you do silly things , caution ,not fear, will be your protector. After all that, if you are still worried then spend a $ and get a pair of these www.ebay.com/itm/Safety-Goggles-Vented-Glasses-Eye-Protection-Protective-Lab-Anti-Fog-Dust-Clear/291945162727?epid=2119201009&hash=item43f949a7e7:g:pP8AAOSw4GVYLRBi:rk:2:pf:0 I use my machines all the time with the lids open because I do filming and experimental work. I just wear cheap reading glasses. Watch the following video from 9 to 13 minutes for a practical demonstrarion of the effects I have described kzbin.info/www/bejne/oamXp6B6nNp2r6c Watch this to see all about the reflectivity of the metal group kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXvIYmmPhtF8g5I Best wishes Russ

[@adamstestanimations]

Fantastic! Thanks for sharing!

[@MarkSchuster-ym3iy]

Can you use a camera with RD Works like Light Burn has

[@SarbarMultimedia]

No. Lightburn is set to become and industry standard because it is so much better than RDWorks. Best wishes Russ

[@KeeneFx]

What is the total vertical height of an object that can be placed inside?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

The lens pocket in the nozzle is 18.1mm diamete and 12mm deep I hope that answers the question I think you asked. Best wshes Russ

[@SpottedDogDesigns]

Hi Russ, I am waiting for my 100W machine to arrive and Ive been intensely watching your videos to learn as much as possible. Could you please elaborate about using a Universal Engraving Nozzle on a 100W machine? Im extremely interested in engraving photos and I want to thank you for making this video. Also how to I go about getting the plans for those Z-Axis measuring devices? Best Regards, Scott

[@russsadler3471]

Hi Scott Attach your emaii to another comment. It will auto copy to my gmail and I willthen delete your comment and send you some answers Best wishes Russ

[@MarkSchuster-ym3iy]

How did you get the solid steel iron table

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Mark There will be steel fabrication shop near you somewhere. Call in and they will cut you an odd piece of steel sheet. 2mm (14 g) cold rolled steel. Hot rolled steel is more likely to not be flat. Best wishes Russ

[@deadhoused4887]

Are you still able to send the files to make the distance gauge?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Just add your disguised email address (johndotsmithatyahoodotcom) to another comment and I will send you files Best wishes Russ

[@TylerHarney]

What is that inline air regulator thing called? I can't for the life of me find one to buy.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Tyler is this what you are after? www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-Tube-OD-6mm-Ball-Valve-Hand-Shut-off-Push-In-Connector-Pneumatic-Fitting/182589155579?hash=item2a832968fb:g:dHsAAOSw2hhciyre Best wishes Russ

[@JJ-ic8jm]

Hey been watching your videos non stop for a few weeks waiting for my machine to arrive. One problem is all the Leaning Labs you did that link to Files on Thinklaser are corrupt. I cannot access any of the download files and would love some of the stuff you created is there anyway you could share? thank you!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi JJ If you like to add your disguised email address to another comment then I will contact you to find out what you need. I suspect ThinkLase may have protected files for their customers. I have no such commitments hence I will give you anything that interests you. Best wishes Russ

[@JJ-ic8jm]

@@SarbarMultimedia thank you Russ you are awesome... Sorry I missed that you replied to me... What do you mean by "disguised email”

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@JJ-ic8jm Hi JJ There are lots of automated bots that scour the internet for email addresses. they have limited intelligence for recognizing adresses so if you distort the format they are easily fooled. something like johndotsmithatgooglmaildotcom seems to work well. Best wishes Russ

[@MarkSchuster-ym3iy]

Can you tell me do you remove the lense from the long tube?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Take a look here www.cloudraylaser.com/products/compound-universal-engraving-nozzle?variant=13488869867571 If you scroll down you will find the compound lens drawings and the way in which lenses fit into the tubes or the nozzle. You will see that the compound lens/universal nozzle is used on it's own with no other lens in the main tube Best wishes Russ

[@jordanshapiro7200]

Great video, but why did you choose 1.5" and 2.5" lenses for your compound setup instead of say 1" and a 1.5? I'm sure there's an explanation, I'm just trying to understand.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Jordon I played with ray tracing to start with but soon came to a conclusion that I was out of my depth. Yes I understand the principle of lenses and played with single lenses as well as occluding parts of the beam I felt that two lenses would ultimately be the way to go. By experimenting with the few lenses I had, a pattern started develop in my combinations. .There is a very small catalog of lens focal lengths, forms and materials..I was very lucky to stumble upon a combination that seemed to produce super fine dots and not have a stupidly narrow depth of field. My goal was to produce a halo free dot where the natural gaussian beam form was somehow filtered out to leave just a central spike of high energy density. I was not interested in power efficiency through the lens, in fact just the oposite. It takes very liitle power to burn a very small dot. Like yourself, there were quite a few people asking me how I knew I had the best lens combination. The answer was simple. I didn't. What I had was sufficient to satisfy my goal but just in case, with some generous lens donations from Cloudray who were interested in my work (maybe it would benefit their lens sales?) I was able to try many more combinations in my hunt for perfection. I point you to this video. I do all my experimentation and research live so you can see how I arrived at this conclusion. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6nJdGygl71phq8 As you will see I tried many combinations and it was not just focal lengths but combinations of materials and lens orientation as well as lens separation, I subsequently found out that the claimed 1000dpi Thunderlaser HR lens was indeed a compound and the claimed spot size was in reality only 500dpi (marketing guys are great at stretching the truth). Now that I know and have tested their combination I sit and smile. All my discoveries are there for the world to see and copy. A thorough understanding of a problem gets you more than 50% towards the solution Hope the video answers your question Best wishes Russ

[@jordanshapiro7200]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you so much for your reply. I thoroughly enjoy your videos and learn something every time I watch them. I have only tried dual lenses once and had the lenses too far apart. I assumed having the lenses at a distance close to the FL of the top lens would yield a smaller dot, but the opposite was true. I got busy and haven't tried since. I am going to purchase the compound lens kit now, I do mainly photos and I believe this will be a great tool. Thanks again!

[@class3rp824]

hi where do i get the test program for laser spot test?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Just add your disguised email address to another comment and I will send you the file and also delete your comment/email address from public view. Best wishes Russ

[@class3rp824]

@@SarbarMultimedia my email address is [e-mail] Cheers Ross

[@class3rp824]

@@SarbarMultimedia hi Russ I don't use you tune for communication and have no idea what i am supposed to do

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@class3rp824 Sadly You Tube canned its personal messaging system so just add your email as one string of words like this (johnsmithatgmaildotcom)

[@henryhartsfield4574]

Any way you can send drawings for that gauge? Henry

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Henry Add your disguised email to another comment (johndotsmithatzoomdotcom) and I will send some files Best wishes Russ

[@jeffreyhoy8452]

How do I get the plans for the Gage to verify I have a level table? I couldn't find your email address anywhere.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Jeffrey To level the table does not require and special gauges you can use any spacer to set the table the same distance to the nozzle in all 4 corners.. The bigger issue is do you know how to level the table? If you like to add your disguised email address to another comment, I will contact you ....and delete your comment Best wishes Russ

[@samihakami1436]

thanks i have 6040 CO2 80W Chinese laser machine it come with software can i install other software to run this machine

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Sami You can download the latest version of RDWorks from thunderlaser.com. This is actually a very good piece of user interface software that converts your designs into machine code without you ever knowing it ....and it is free. However, there is an alternative that has been developed by a couple of laser enthusiasts. This is called Lightburn and is so much better because not only has it copied most of the original features of RDWorks, it has lots more and is much easier to use. Whereas RDWorks only works with Windows, Lightburn runs with OS,Windows or LInux. There is a free 30day download you can run after which the licence costs you $80 I think. After that you can opt to pay about $20 yearly to say on the update program. Best wishes Russ

[@samihakami1436]

@@SarbarMultimedia thanks

[@bobmo1969]

did u put lences in wrong way from diagram on cloud website

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I supplied the Cloudray website diagram and I have checked (just in case) to find that my assembly here and the diagram agree. If in doubt look at the diagram. Best wishes Russ

[@bobmo1969]

@@SarbarMultimedia cheers Russ just the diagram on cloudray is different from your i was a little confussed

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@bobmo1969 Hi Can you send me a link to where you saw this picture and I will get it changed Was it on an Ebay or Amazon site? The main website is correct. Just scroll down www.cloudraylaser.com/products/compound-universal-engraving-nozzle?variant=13488869867571 Many thanks Russ

[@bobmo1969]

@@SarbarMultimedia the main site has changed it now

[@bobmo1969]

@@SarbarMultimedia was like this last night but been changed now....facebook.com/photo?fbid=4050344281648308&set=pcb.968235133698805

[@alfaplus9686]

Hello, Universal Engraving Nozzle (Cloudray Laser) vs High Resolution laser head (Thunderlaser) which is better. For better results.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi The results for the TL head are just about the same as with the compound lens. I and two TL owners have compared results on matching materials using my little dot measuring test. The big difference is about $400. The claims for the TL head are ludicrous at 1000dpi and are explained in kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYbOc4KYeM2agtE To replicate a 1000ppi image you must be able to produce 0.025mm dots. On hard materials you can achieve 0.05 dots with both systems, which puts you in the 500dpi region. However, most people will be working with wood or acrylic and the limit with these materials is likely to be 0.1mm ie a 254ppi image. The TL method of creating laser ready images is to use halftone dithering (as do all the "big boys with their RF lasers). Half tone dithering produces varying size dots and the laser machine (continuous or RF) is limited to just one size of dot. Thus, half tone dithering will always be a compromised solution to photo engraving. If you have a TL machine and are thinking of buying the compound lens kit. it will not fit your machine directly because the nozzle thread is different. Check the stem diameter of your lens tube (! think it may be 25mm) and buy the correct lens tube at the Cloudray website. When I discovered the mismatch, I asked Cloudray to provide suitable lens tubes for TL owners. There are already hundreds of happy compound lens kit users and a recent new user could not believe he was getting 0.06mm dots...but he was. Bet wishes Russ

[@alfaplus9686]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you for your answer. I don't speak English, I read it by translating. As I understand it, the only difference between the two is the price So I ordered (Universal Engraving Nozzle) Thank you

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@alfaplus9686 To fit your machine you will also need to order a new lens tube . Measure the diameter of your lens tube, I think it is 25mm diameter. If so you need to order an E series lens tube ($9). because the M22x1 thread on the compound nozzle kit will not fit a Thunderlaser lens tube www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/nozzles-lens-tube Best wishes Russ

[@alfaplus9686]

@@SarbarMultimedia I measured, I think it looked 22mm (21-22mm)

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@alfaplus9686 Add your disguised email address (johndotsmithatgmaildotcom) to another comment and I will write to you so we can use pictures to resolve your problem. Best wishes Russ

[@scottthorne9671]

Hello Again My friend, Russ can you please send me some info on how and where to purchase the compound lens system and I'll order as soon asi get the info. Thank you so much, Scott Thorne

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Scott Try this www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/nozzles-lens-tube/products/compound-universal-engraving-nozzle?variant=13034075455539 They may be waiting for stock to arrive but shipping is imminent best wishes Russ

[@MrMalik918]

i'm looking for that paper, i know this is an older video but, if anyone that still sees it has an idea where i can get it in the US / or some other substitute that would work just as well, can you please let me know... just looking for a way without spending more than twice the cost of the paper just for shipping fees

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Go to Amazon,com and search for "watercolour pad". Most of what is in USA is 300 gms but thicker is prefectly OK. It's the structure, mainly cotton fibre as opposed to wood fibre in normal paper that is important for the "burn" characteristic

[@vaughanza]

Excellent video thanks

[@firasdanno2545]

Amazing video I learned so much by watching this great information. I have one question can you give us more information on the paper you use to print please. Thank you,

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi The beer mat card I use for my printing is www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CK0IBGC?pf_rd_p=855cdcfd-05d9-474f-b84d-8286a3530ba1&pf_rd_r=7R5EKHGH0HH1JW7FQDKF&th=1 This looks similar www.ebay.com/itm/BEER-MAT-BACKING-BOARD-CARD-WHITE-GREYBOARD-CARDBOARD-SHEETS-MOUNT-STOCK-A4-A3/263843783031?hash=item3d6e50a177:m:mAKIvzrVaZSudvsvnT9jI-g:rk:28:pf:0 Best wishes Russ

[@firasdanno2545]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you,

[@JuanFlores-jr1jr]

Like all your videos Thanks for sharing Russ. I have the K Series: laser head with 50.8mm Blue) I need a nozzle for 38mm lens can you tell me where I can buy it ? Cloudray laser told me K series cannot use with Compound /Universal Engraver Nozzle. The screw size does not match. You can use Compound /Universal Engraver Nozzle for C and E series laser head.or can you make me one i will buy it help thanks

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Juan I do not have access to a K40 and have never touched one so I need more information to advise you. Please attach your email address to another comment. I get auto copied to my Gmail so I will delete your comment. Best wishes Russ

[@polakis1975]

Bravo mate!

[@markwidmann3184]

I just finished running multiple spot size tests on the compound lens... I've done it like 10 times. I keep coming up with the same number*** .06??*** Holy cow is that right? I have a number of other lenses, none even get close to .1

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Mark You are not wrong. It is a magical lens combination that you have seen me demonstrate. On certain hard materials I have achieved 0.05mm dots. However most people will be working with wood and the it will be normal to comfortably achieve 0.1mm dots. That is a number I would claim for the combo even though I (and now you) know it can do better. The dot size determines the resolution of the image you are trying to replicate so 25.4mm/0.06mm = 423ppi. That will produce an awesome picture. But to be safe and honest I always work with 0.1mm dots and 254ppi Best wishes Russ

[@markwidmann3184]

@@SarbarMultimedia You're the man. Your videos are informative, and you don't miss a single detail. Thanks for all your work.

[@patprop74]

Russ , there is no doubt that is impressive, but on paper, I just do not see the point, as even the cheapest of the cheapest laser or inkjet printer can do this better within seconds, what other use would this be good for?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I do agree. As an engineer, why would you take a perfectly good photographic image and degrade it? Strangely people seem to appreciate the fact that it is NOT a photographic image and because they do not understand how this "different" image has been produced , like most artforms, it has it's own attraction. The problem that dragged me into this area is the crap reproductions I have seen from the "big boys". They appear to have not understood the mechanism for reproducing a photographic images. My goal was to understand the way that I could get the best photographic reproduction by making a dot for every pixel in a diffusion dithered image. Our machines can only make a singe dot of just one size so the half tone printing process used by most people or software to convert images for laser "burning", fail, because this method generates variable size dots that cannot be replicated. The lack of a lens that can create small dots is an issue that faces all the big boys thus they use dodgy software methods to hide this problem. The smaller the "burn" dots you can produce, the higher the resolution picture you can reproduce. I feel a bit smug that my crappy little £1000 Chinese machine can do things that the £25,000+ machines cannot match. I personally am not interested in capitalizing on this understanding but my step daughter has seen the opportunities that this "artform" offers and has started a growing small business engraving images onto glass. It appears that people take high quality colour photo images for granted but look at and study the sort of images she is producing, just because they are "different". Go figure. Best wishes Russ

[@patprop74]

@@SarbarMultimedia That is true, nowadays with our high megapixel cameras that capture so much detail we do tend to overlook simplicity, And i can see the value of using this "artform" on glass and I'm pleased your stepdaughter has to seize the opportunity, Good for her! I do like the fact that you have taken an approach in figuring out what the "big boys" have overlooked, As they say, Every tool has its job, not because the tool is more expensive it means it will do more or better, Going back to the smaller Dot size thing and combining the art of photography, Have you considered Macro photography as an inspiration to design a better focusing lens, Example in macro photography one can use a reverse ring on normal lens to magnify a subject on too the sensor,( sensor, in this case, the medium we are engraving on) and with the use of extension tubes one can magnify, even more, If the laser head tube was re-designed in such a way, for a three-lens setup, The first lens biconvex to focus the beam on to a second lens and refocused on the last on? I don't know lol just throwing idea's around

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@patprop74 Hi There is one big problem with your suggestion ....$$$$$. You spend a fortune on special lenses from the optics companies that service the industrial and laboratory sectors or you can make the best of the VERY limited range of ZnSe lenses that are commercially available form China. I never have intentions to upgrade my machine with lots of expensive replacements and extras, only to explore the possible working envelope to it's absolute limit. The Ruida controller has so much more power than most can ever imagine so with the careful choice of some simple optics within what is commercially available, anyone's cheapo machine can do some amazing tricks. As you have seen, my man cave has zero sophisticated research equipment, just my imagination, lots of experimentation and acute observation. This strange combination of a poor quality plano convex Chinese lens with lots of spherical aberration feeding light into a more sophisticated and better quality meniscus lens produces wonderous results. No optical; engineer would ever consider such a combination because it breaks all the rules........ I am amazed by the F theta lens I am now working with on the fiber laser. 10" focal length and a 0.065mm spot size. Yes, I have checked and this is not theoretical, it is real and under certain conditions it can be even less. Best wishes Russ

[@greenspottytoes]

its moisture in the paper

[@turboflush]

I dont print pictures... But this was amazing.

[@jameswares4469]

Hi Russ l have just ordered it. Thanks again. Cheers James 🥃🥃🥃👍

[@andyspoo2]

I think Cloudray are doing pretty well from your work. I just looked at buying one of these kits and it says "12 sold in the last 16 hours". I hope you are getting a bit of money back in return, for all your hard work?!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Andy I was offered a profit share but refused. Just another tax issue to upset my nice equilibrium. Instead I give my designs to Cloudray FOC and in return if I need products for testing, like my many lenses, the 30 watt RF tube. beam expanders and of course a prototype Russ Spec machine. Just a trusting gentlemen's relationship suits us both. I explore and learn for free and everyone (including Cloudray) benefits from the knowledge. Best wishes Russ

[@KeeneFx]

Thank you

[@marouaneladjel1907]

wow super naturel

[@whynotcnc8828]

wow

[@jamesbabcock6320]

Russ, did you ever get that HR lens from you friend for a Thunder Laser? I was wondering if your now familiar with the Beam Buddy. Looks like Thunder will be purchasing some of these. I believe it all revolves around your work. hub.beambuddy.xyz/

[@class3rp824]

that should say you tube

[@katana250uk9]

He

[@dheinis120]

Thank you