RDWorks Learning Lab 75 What have I learned from 1 year of owning a Chinese Laser Engraver

[@SpinStar1956]

I am still trying to figure out how to ever afford one of these machines but cannot thank you enough for spearheading through the traps, trials and tribulations that you have. The amount of effort, work, technical analysis is truly commendable. Yours is one of the most useful and valuable KZbin channels around. So, THANK YOU so much!!!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Thanks for the appreciative comments. My experience of the Chinese system and the tricks they get up to is mainly gathered from the huge amount of correspondence I get from people in trouble. Each individual thinks their situation is unique, but I can see from the patterns that they (and I) are just part of an Ebay marketing fraud. As I try to make clear in my summary, most machines are mechanically sound (a few are poorly set up) but the big con is in the B grade tubes and power supplies they fit. When you buy one of these machines you must factor in that in a reasonably short time you will have to be spending out for a new PSU and PROPER quality tube. I point this out as something to consider if you are cash strapped. Good luck and best regards Russ

[@DaveBodnar]

Russ - I would like to thank you for all the time and effort you have put in to these videos and for all the time and effort you have saved me and many others by learning from your experiments. Keep up the good work! dave

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Dave Thanks for the feedback. It's gratifying (although not intended) to know that the bumblings of an old guy enjoying himself in his "man cave" is somehow helping others. Best regards Russ

[@RickEverett]

Just had to stop by and say thanks. Picked up my unit last weekend, and just finished setting it up today. Took me a while to get the odd little bits and pieces, and was busy at work. But, due to your videos, and detailed instruction, I was able to get my machine up and running, out of the box. I performed my first cut today, which was the lid for my water tank....Just a simple program to put a couple of holes in the lid for the tubing. Again, thank you for your work....not many people are willing to put this kind of info, work, dedication, into helping others. If you weren't across the pond, I would give you a good handshake and a cuppa. Kudos to you sir! Rick

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Rick It's great news that you have joined the "Chinese Laser Sufferers Club". It seems that the path I am creating with my learning journey is helpful to others, so thanks for your feedback and appreciation. Just make sure you look ahead and see that I made early mistakes. Don't lose sight of the fact that these are NOT tutorials but more a record of an old guy in his man cave have the most fun ever with a techno toy. The only advice I will give is until you have fitted an ammeter don't use more than 65% power. By all means use it at higher values for a few quick test to characterize your tube. If you bought a 50 watt machine it will certainly be fitted with a 40 watt tube that should not run at more than 18mA To fit an ammeter is easy. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnW9nqiuppp1e68 Best regards Russ

[@TheGeeMan]

I wanted to say thanks for sharing your time posting up these awesome and educational videos, I have the same machine you have and you've been a treasure trove of information in learning how to use my machine. Keep up the good work! Greg

[@mohammedissa9448]

I am grateful to all of the hard work that you have put into your KZbin videos. I have only discovered your channel today, but I can see how much hard work you put into documenting your experiences with your laser. I will be going through your labs to learn all of the bits I have missed myself. Having said that, if you ever need any tests made on a RECI 100W Chinese laser, please consider me your guinea pig over here in Canada. Cheers!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Mohammed Thanks for your generous offer. I have had several people write to me with machines fitted with Reci tubes. My first question is always "is it real or counterfeit?" As a high priced market leading tube there are cheap copies around that get sold on ebay. I have no idea where you sourced your tube but it may be worth looking at this www.recilaser.com/en/newsInfo/ba9e706849167e770149177de8e00e86.htm There's a lot of viewing for one year of learning....good luck Best regards Russ

[@mohammedissa9448]

Hi Russ, I have scanned the QR code on my Reci tube, and it is indeed a genuine Reci tube. I have purchased my laser directly from a factory from China. I corresponded with the sales rep for over 2 months before completing my purchase, to both customize and insure my machine is top quality. It is no Trotec, mind you, but I have not had any major flaws since it has arrived on November 2015. I am using it on a daily basis in a commercial setting. It is getting close to a year now, and the tube seems to have as much power as it has when I first got the machine. One of the features I have insisted on getting was to be able to control the Z-axis using the control panel. Controlling it from a switch on the side of the machine did not appeal to me because of its inaccessibility and in-accurateness. It is much easier to use the digital buttons on the screen to go up and down, rather than flicking a switch (on and off) to get to the designed height. In order to get this feature, I had to opt for the auto-leveling feature, which I do not use at the moment. By the way, because of the size of my machine, (900mm x 600mm bed area) the z-axis is driven by a metal chain and a huge stepper motor. It is surprisingly accurate. Regards, Mohammed

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Mohammed All that is excellent news. It's generally those ebay machines that claim to be fitted with Reci tubes that turn out to be counterfeit. If you ever find this out, it will never be possible to get to to man in China that sold it to you. It may cost more to buy direct from China but you are generally assured of getting a reasonable quality machine with an A grade tube and power supply. That Reci tube comes with a statement of 10,000 hour life, I have recently found out that this time is not "light on" hours but elapsed time/shelf life. The gas mix inside the tube is there as a partial vacuum and as such there will be slow leakage of outside air into the tube This degrades the mix over time. Some seals will be better than others so it may be that your tube will be better than the statistical average. As a person that relies on his tube, I would advise you start checking it weekly with a simple 65% cutting test (say a 25mm square) on a piece of 6 or 8mm acrylic Set the speed to JUST cut through. When it starts to struggle or you have to lower the speed to get a good cut, will be the time to start more regular checks. Bear in mind your 10,000 hours starts ticking when the tube leaves the factory, so dont by a "spare" tube a long way in advance. It sounds like you have bought a really good machine and your initial research and effort. Would you mind sharing where you bought your machine from. It's always good to collect positive information. Most of what I collect is from unhappy people with problems. Thanks again for your kind offer Best regards Russ

[@mohammedissa9448]

Hi Russ, I have come across many users who have dealt with factories directly, but realize the after sale support is horrible. I can say that is true in some cases from first-hand experience. I have visited many factories in China in three separate trips and have learned a lot about the general business strategy that some manufacturers tend to follow. I cannot generalize that all of the factories in China follow the same mindset, but from my observation, I have found that many factories' representatives seem very welcoming and friendly before the sale. Once the sale has been completed, their support and enthusiasm deteriorates and problems arise. Having said that, the current machine I have is not my first experience with a Chinese laser. In 2013, I purchased my first desktop laser (60W Reci, not sure if it was genuine or not) from Bodor. At that time, the sales person I dealt with (for approximately 1 month before finalizing the sale, was very quick to respond, easy to work with and fairly easy to understand. Once the money was transferred, and the machine arrived, their English seemed to have gotten worse. It was not a bad machine, but I had problems with the LED strip shorting the whole machine. When it is plugged into an outlet, the electrical breaker would trip. Having realized that the LED strip got damaged during shipping, I was able to fix the problem. The second major problem I had was the bed. It was nowhere near level or even flat. It was warped in some areas. I documented the bad bed with a very clear video, using a straight edge. Their response was that my straight edge was not 'straight', and their bed is fine. I had to fabricate my own aircraft grade aluminum bed to compensate for that issue. They suggested they would fix the problem if I mailed the old table to them. This is completely unreasonable because of the logistics. The fact that they were able to see in the video that the table was not flat, and that they asked for me to ship it anyways made no sense. I don't know how well Bodor machines are now, they seem to have made a huge face-lift to their models. On the other hand, the machine I currently have is from ShenhuiLaser. From my previous experience, I knew I was taking some risk, but for the specifications I was getting, the value outweighed the risks. I honestly cannot mention anything bad about this company. I am not affiliated with Shenhui in any way, shape or firm. I have had a positive experience during the whole journey. I have done a lot of research on which manufacturer to purchase my machine from, and I am genuinely happy. The only thing I would change about my purchase is the Industrial Chiller I have purchased. The one I currently have is the CW-3000 chiller. I will be getting the 5000 chiller soon. My shop gets too warm in the summer (in Canada) and the water temperature has risen to 29C. It is not a problem during winter, but I am always scared to overheat the tube. One experiment I made in regards to Shenhui is to test their after-sales support. One problem I faced was regarding the second mirror mount. One of the screws that adjusts the mirror was very hard to turn. I have changed the screws around, but I realized the actual tapped hole was stripped. I could have easily re-tapped the hole, but I wanted to see how the manufacturer would react to my issue. I talked to the sales rep, explaining the problem. In less than 24 hours, she responded asking me to quickly send her my current mailing address. In a few days, I find a whole new mirror mount in my mail. I was very impressed with this. They did not ask for the old mount to be shipped to their factory in China, nor did they ask for evidence of the mount being stripped. I will not guarantee everyone has had, or will have the same level of experience, but this is something I have experienced with Shenhui. They have earned my loyalty to the company and I will definitely be doing more business with them in the near future. Regarding my current tube, I will take your suggestion and do this test. I have not thought of it before, but I will certainly make it a routine. I am already investigating the purchase of a new tube, just in case my current dies or fails. I decided not to purchase a spare tube for the reason you have suggested. But I think it is time for me to invest a little to insure an uninterrupted operation. Another positive aspect I have realized today is the age of my laser tube. When I scanned that QR code, it read that the tube was delivered September 23, 2015. This is very close to the purchase date of my machine. This means Shenhui does not stock-pile the tubes in their factory and send 'aged' tubes. If you have any other questions regarding my machine or experience, please feel free to reach out. Regards, Mohammed

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Mohanned It happens that my machine is a Shenhui 300x500mm. The 50 watt tube was actually an 800mm 40 watt tube that was unmarked rubbish. The basic engineering is quite good but as I mentioned earlier, I bought my machine from Ebay happily unaware of the fraudulent activities taking place with these machines. With many correspondents reliving my story, I now know that mine was not just a case of "bad luck" but all part of a systematic fraud to shift B grade reject tubes and power supplies. Thanks again for all your positive feedback. I will pass on your experience whenever possible. Best regards Russ

[@guinnesspeaks]

I enjoyed this as well as the rest of your series ... Congrats to you for sticking with it, and for allowing us to come along with you.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hey, just remember this is an old guy in his "man cave" getting the most fun ever tinkering with this technology and at the same time servicing his second hobby (videography). It's this second hobby that allows you to look over my shoulder and see all the things I learn and all the mistakes I make. Thanks for you appreciation Russ

[@envisionelectronics]

The exhaust whine can be reduced even more by building a tube with a T-tube resonator tuned to the fundamental frequency. The results are that the resonator produces the same tone but in opposite wave phase to the main tone. A little tuning will result in an almost completely null output of the main tone. Car enthusiasts do this with vehicle exhausts to reduce the "drone" noise.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Aaron Thanks for the suggestion and I may do some experimental work. However unlike a car exhaust system where the sound has only one exit path, that's not the case with a centrifugal fan. The impeller blades are shearing air as they pass over the exit scroll and this is the source of the noise. By virtue of the high velocity air, maybe as much as 60% of the generated noise is carried into the exhaust duct. This is where you would normally put a T resonator and I can imagine that this would be a very effective silencing system because the frequency is reasonably pure. The problem with the fan is that at least 40% of the noise propagates out from the input duct and also through the fan casing. A really super idea and thanks for your input Best regards Russ

[@envisionelectronics]

I built a big air bearing assembly for handling paper through a printing press. We were dealing with eight 7.5HP blowers operating among a production assembly team. We tried many things, but what worked best was a large cabinet with sound absorbing foam and Helmholtz tube on the exhaust side. Our blower housings were cast aluminium and didn't allow much sound transfer at the main frequency.

[@rabbiehippo]

Hi Russ. I bought one of these machines after watching your videos. The tube lasted 2 weeks before developing a crack in the water inputs at the business end. I've since bought an SPT tube which we fitted last night. Early results show the laser is far superior to the original. I've not watched all your videos yet but they've helped me greatly. Cheers Rob

[@SarbarMultimedia]

It is very rare to get good tubes fitted to ebay machines. They usually work, but how well is a big question mark. If your first tube was marked K H Laser then it was already a reject tube from a main manufacturer. One of the machine builders that specializes in Ebay sales (keHui) have a poor quality reputation and are known to acquire reject tubes, retest them, to make sure they function "in some way" to fool the average innocent E bay buyer. They then relabel them. They may last days or months, its just pot luck.....and fraud. SPT tubes are cheaper but work just as well as the top of the range Reci and EFR tubes. Despitye the lifetime promise, it should last two or three years. Best regards Russ

[@rabbiehippo]

Ok thanks for your reply. I just noticed your amp meter so I think that's next on the shipping list. In the meantime should I watch what power I put in it ? It's a true 50 watt tube and I suspect a 50 watt power supply so should I try cutting at lower power until then ? It's mdf we are mainly cutting for my wife's craft shop business.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

A true 50 watt tube will be 1000mm long and should not be run at more than 20mA. If you do not have an ammeter then limit your running tom 65% as typically this is about the 20mA value Best regards Rus

[@rabbiehippo]

Ok thanks. All the best Rob

[@KevinJohnson-ge5xs]

Russ, I really like the design of the new ammeter/temperature monitor enclosure. Looks like I have 1 more project to add to the list! Hopefully by winter, I'll actually have my machine running. We're looking at admission number 8 sometime next week.

[@seeigecannon]

Something I have done for my laser: Install a potentiometer between the DSP and the PWM input on the power supply. Turn the pot down to 0 and turn the laser on to 100%, then slowly bring up the pot until you are at 18mA or whatever you want to be at on your ammeter. This will prevent you from ever going over your max current, but it will also give you much greater control over the laser (dynamic range) because you can now operate the laser between 10% and 100% instead of 10% to 60%. I can give you more info if desired.

[@synergie8]

Interesting So the DSP is producing an analog voltage to the PSU I'd always presumed that the DSP generated PWM which was used by the PSU. What value pot did you use ? This also gives me some ideas about how to linearly map the DSP values to actual power values. I $2 microcontroller would suffice to remap the input voltage to output voltage to make it linear. I'll attach my DVM to my machine and take a look at what sort of voltage range the DSP is generating e.g. 5V or 3.3V or perhaps something higher

[@seeigecannon]

It is a PWM signal, but the PSU has a RC filter inside of it to turn it into an analogue voltage. So if we have a 5V signal at 100% duty then it would drive the laser to 100%, but if we have a voltage divider in there then we can set the 5V signal to 3V or whatever makes the tube happy, then we can set the DSP to 100% with no worries. Edit: I have been meaning to use an Arduino with a 12bit DAC to read the input PWM, do some math, and then give the laser a real linear output. I would also want to set a min power so when a job is running the laser hovers to where it is just about to fire so the tube is much more responsive than it normally would be when doing pulses.

[@synergie8]

Ah. OK. I took a quick look at the signal from the DSP to the PSU and my DMM read it as an DC voltage, but strangely it seemed to be negative with respect to the black wire from the DSP to the PSU. But now that I've looked at the manual for the RDC6442, it looks like the colour of the wires they have used to connect to the PSU could be better, they seem to have not use black for GND. Also the PSU seems to have multiple inputs connected together, so I think I'll need to find a manual for the PSU (though I'm not sure thats even possible)

[@seeigecannon]

I might still have my blown PSU around, it might be a good idea for me to try to reverse engineer the circuit to get a better understanding of how it works.

[@johnny0110]

Hey Russ, great work as always!!! Question... Do you have info or parts list on how I can make that power/water temp display?? Maybe info on how you hooked it up? I like that!!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi John It was 3 years ago but I'll hunt through to see if I can find the file. In the meantime can you attach your email to another comment and I'll write back with details and also delete your comment/email from public view. Best wishes Russ

[@harrellmathews4516]

I also want to thank you for your series on this laser engraver and RDWorks. I have seen that you check these comments and will reply. I am having a problem with my x axis in that I have no movement at all either direction. I was wondering if you could shed some light on the problem. Thank you again for your time and efforts making these videos.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Harrell I absolutely hate You Tube from time to time. I answered this question in depth earlier and You Tube has posted my answer to some parallel universe!!! So lets try again The strategy to solving such issues is to halve the problem and then work on the half that has the issue. First verify that Y is working correctly with the UP/DOWN arrows. Switch off the machine There are 4-way connectors on both the X and Y stepper drivers, Swap them over Move the head to the centre of the table Turn the power on but as soon as you see head movement press the ESC button to stop the head Now press the left and right arrows. Remember that the X driver is now powering the Y motor. Thus if the gantry moves it proves that there is noting wrong with the X driver. OR if there is no movement then you have to concentrate on the X driver, Now press the UP/DOWN arrows. It proves that the wiring and the X motor are both working correctly. If no motion then a broken wire must be suspected because it is rare (but not impossible) for a stepper motor to just die. Let me know in which half of the system the problem is happening and we can then work back further. Best wishes Russ

[@harrellmathews4516]

Russ, thank you very much for your response. I did as you instructed and once I switched the wires on the stepper drivers, I had X movement but no Y movement. I also checked the continuity on the wires on both motors and it showed to have good continuity both motors. I am thinking this all means that the X stepper driver is the problem. Interesting side note here, I contacted Orion Motor Tech Direct through Amazon messaging and they asked me to make a video that their technician could view to help determine the problem. While doing a run through for the video, I started up the machine and the X axis was working. It lasted about 24 hours and it quit again. Do you agree that the stepper driver is the problem? Do you have any recommendations for supplier for a replacement?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@harrellmathews4516 Hi Harrell Sadly any laser machine bought from ebay or through Amazon market place will be built with many B grade parts that work but did not pass the original manufacturers final test specification. Obviously these parts are mach cheaper than A grade parts and the manufacturer of the machine will distance himself from warranty responsibility by selling to you through a 3rd party who is legally responsible for the promised warranty. I suspect that you may have such a stepper drive unit. If the X driver has quit again, Take a video of it not working and swap the drivers again and show a video of X working and Y not working. I hope you are speaking with the vendor via Amazon so there is a record. Upload the video to You Tube as an unlisted and send them the link via your Amazon communication route. Exaggerate the situation and tell them that this is preventing your small business from operating and it needs urgent attention. If they cannot replace the driver within 7 days then you will be forced to buy one locally at a cost $???? and ask for a refund to cover the replacement cost.. Take a look here on Amazon at a reputable company for a guide price (plus delivery) Quite a lot of popular items are stocked by Amazon but some willcome from China so check the delivery dates. www.amazon.co.uk/s?i=merchant-items&me=A19OXSQHU3YOFO Best wishes Russ

[@FelishaWild]

Hi Russ. Thank you so much for your series of videos. I have a very old Epilog 25W laser and have been interested in the Chinese lasers as well. You've given me confidence to order a smaller machine to work through the workflow and at some point getting a larger laser. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing all of the small details that you've worked through.

[@zengyuchen]

Hello, Felisha, you can check lasers at amazon and we have a showroom in Birmingham, AL

[@gasman9845]

What a great series on the laser THANK YOU. helped me make up my mind which machine to purchase I am a fitter & turner by trade that has multiple sclerosis & still has the ability to play & work this has saved me $ thousands GREAT WORK. Wayne

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Wayne I know MS only too well. My first wife fought against it for many years. Your attitude is great because you must keep using whatever you have for as long as you can. Laugh and enjoy each day it may be the only life you have. Wring every gram of pleasure out of your new machine........, there may even be a new business in there somewhere if you get it well trained. Sincere best wishes Russ

[@gasman9845]

Thank you Russ I have watched hours of your videos and new they were great when you made your own mirrors. I have a step dad with a machine Shop 2 mates that have machine shops and I have drafting skills this looks like it will be fun. Thx for getting back so quickly & sharing. You reminded me of my step dad retired but giving back to us young guys. True tradesman. Thank you

[@gasman9845]

Ms has disabled me not inabled

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I salute your attitude Wayne You sound like you have lots of tech help around you already but if there's anything that puzzles you, just ask. I may know. Just remember I'm still learning as well but am 18 months ahead of you. Sincere best wishes Russ

[@synergie8]

Russ I bought a smaller air assist (aquarium pump) and now use it all the time instead of the pump that was originally supplied, as the new (small) pump is significantly quieter and is not so prone to walking though vibration For the cutting I do, I don't see any difference between using the small and the original pump. I think the only way to get a really large air flow to the nozzle would require replacement of the small bore tube that runs the last stretch of the way. Or perhaps attach a high pressure pump / compressor ( which would be very noisy and expensive to run) Re: Pure water I eventually found the cheapest way to get water was from a car / motor factors. I can buy "Steam distilled" water for £6.50 for 10L,

[@doghot436]

Thank you very much! I am chinese. Your video is the more best than official help document

[@Henchetarian]

Thank you so much all your videos Russ my machine is still as good as new because of your explanations and research, hope you continue to enjoy using yours!

[@larivartiainen1148]

Thanks for your videos. Those have been very helpful. I have had my China laser about 5 moths and learn to use it from your videos. Understanding a laser is reached from my main job as laser operator with a little bit bigger laser cutter. I do a little side job business with my China laser and I haven't yet got any problems but I will be ready to change the tube when time comes. Have a good time playing with your toy (I consider these as toys) and may the beam force be with you.

[@StefsEngineering]

Completely agree, very interesting and learned a lot from it.

[@zengyuchen]

As the laser tube, you could directly buy it from amazon.

[@on1uv]

Hi Russ,Being on a shopping tour for a laser for some time, I watched a lot of your video's and decided to take the "risk" and go for the Chinese.So I ordered a machine, the next larger size as yours, cutting size 700x500mm and supposed to be equipped with a 60W tube.I even ordered it at the same shop as you did. (at least I think; with the Chinese you never know)Price, being some 1850€, shipping included, was very attractive.And, after some communication with the seller, the machine was imported already in the EC, so there should be no import duties to pay.The box (a huge one, good for some 180kg) arrived by DHL 8 days after payment - so that's very fast.I came from Gatwick, and there was nothing to pay at the moment of delivery. But, also being retired but still having my old company and a valid VAT number, and my company being known by DHL; some invoice might come in a few day's... we will see.After unpacking the thing, a quick check shows no transport damage; the laser tube looks not broken as far as I can see and was marked with a "test certificate" being a 60W tube that actually produced some 57W - test date 05/2017.The laser power supply was also rated and marked being a 60W version.So all this looks better then expected.At the moment I only powered up the machine and that was OK - I had to switch the language to English on the control panel but you documented that in some video and it worked as shown.Did not have the laser on yet, because I have first to arrange the water cooling. I will put an update here somewhere after the first cut.What I noticed in all your video's is, that you never seams to wear protective glasses. I for myself, being pretty careful for my eyes, ordered in any case good ones for CO2 laser. No Chinese ones (don't trust them that far) but serious ones from Thorlabs - model GL6 to be precise. Costs around 160€ shipping included, but that's still the price I want to pay for my sight.I also intend, before powering up the tube for the first time, to modify and reroute the HV wiring to the tube. What I see here is below any engineering standard (I am an electronics engineer)I'll have a look how I can put my findings and modifications available to anyone interested - do not intend to make some video of it (to much work) but I make pictures of all I modify.I'll keep you all informed...

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Luc By all means keep us informed. My only concern was your tube description. Is it branded K H Laser? Take a look at kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXvIYmmPhtF8g5I and make your own risk assessment about these heat rays and your 160 euro investment. You are correct that I do not wear any SPECIAL safety glasses. I do however wear cheap reading glasses with polycarbonate lenses. The IR emitted by a CO2 laser has some weired properties. Althoiugh it is a form of light it is at such a long wave length it will not harm your eyes in the same way that visible laser light will. Visible light will damage your retina (just like staring at the sun or watching arc welding without adequate light filtration) IR is rapidly absorbed by water and many other substances and will cause local surface burning, so it is your cornea that is at risk with IR NOT your retina. Putting another energy absorbing barrier between your cornea and a DIRECT beam will give you all the protection you need. The machine has a cover, so technically if that is closed when the beam is on any reflections will never reach you. Virtually all materials you will be using in the machine are 100% absorbers of IR thus there will be little chance of reflections even if you run the machine without the lid closed. Despite all the scary warnings and labels IR radiation is to be understood, respected but NOT feared. Good luck in your own journey of discovery. Best wishes Russ

[@on1uv]

Thanks Russ for the reply.The tube is indeed branded KH Laser. Could not immediately find out if this is a manufacturer of laser tubes or some test lab. Maybe you know more about it.Concerning these safety glasses - I looked at the video now and have seen that the danger is indeed relative.But taken into account that I wear glasses with lenses that pretty special and also bi-focus; I am not sure if they are made out of polycarbonate or real glass (but I expect the last, as I broke them once and they have cost me some 400€ to replace them); I still find the investment acceptable.The is also the fact that I have some grandchildren with tech genes, always being around grandpa when he is playing with machines and things with a lot of buttons on it. I teach them good workshop practise rules, and safety glasses are one of them.And my daughter in law would skin me alive if something should happen to them. (if she would get the change, my wife might be first)All the best from bloody hot Belgium (32°C now)[e-mail]

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Luc I tried replying to your email address but there must be a typing error somewhere because the message cannot be delivered. Can you resend your email address. Thanks Best wishes Russ

[@on1uv]

Russ, KZbin strips off some formatting characters in the message system. So it looks my email address starts with 2 times my first name. Actually I had put a carriage return in between. So if you use just my first name only once before the @ sign it will work. And the part after the @ sign is correct. There is a digit 2 in it - some people think this should be a capital Z; it is not.

[@robinson-foundry]

I have had my "50w" laser since Oct 2015. Its been used off and on. I've only had to replace the power supply so far. I have noticed that my laser tube is past its working life so I will be replacing it with another "50w" tube. I've been lucky that my tube has lasted as long as it has. However I have never gone over 60% power thanks to Russ.

[@micilebase]

Hi , that ammeter input is really creative perhaps it might increase the tube life

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi It is not just a good idea, it is essential to preserving your tube life . There are maximum recommended currents for running your tube that depend on watts or tube length. Run the tube at more than this recommended current and you will dramatically shorten your tube life. That ammeter is so cheap and also so simple to install it is almost criminal negligence that they are not fitted as standard to all machines. Being cynical (what me???) I suspect the Chines are relying on your ignorance to use the tube at 100% so that you wreck your tube quickly....great for after market sales of tubes!! Best wishes Russ ps www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-0-30MA-Analog-Current-Panel-Meter-Ammeter-85C1-30MA-White-W8D2/123418829185?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55149%26meid%3D2f3e71c4651b48948f92f98453522ac4%26pid%3D101006%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D123418829185&_trksid=p2045573.c101006.m3226

[@micilebase]

Thanks for the reply, great content sir .

[@voxellab4339]

Thanks, You confirmed what I thought about the ebay laser cutters. I when through the same learning curve with the early 3d printers. A years worth of rebuilding and it never really worked as advertised. But what I now know about 3d printers is priceless. Sure would I like a laser cutter that works out of the box and last, sure but I don't have that kind of cash. I'll be happy is the basic mechanics and electronics are good. I expect to replace the accessories. Thanks Russ, Nice job on the muffler!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi If you are prepared to buy direct from the factory then you get a good tube and power supply. You may still have to tweak the engineering a bit but you will get a pretty good machine. After travelling half way round the world you cant expect it to hit the ground running. If you want that sort of nannying (and that doesn't sound like you) then you pay someone like Boss Laser to do the worrying and deliver you a running machine (but at a price) Thanks for your kind words Best regards Russ

[@Wenturi]

Before watching your videos I was thinking about getting one of those Ebay machines, similar to yours, but now, I am not sure. What would you suggest? Chinese one, and then order a proper 60w+ tube, or something completely different? My budget is ~ 1500 euros, and 50-60w will do the job.

[@WHJeffB]

I've watched many of your videos... You provide some great information for new and experienced users alike. I have a question for you... I have a similar 50W system as yours. I use the RD Laser Works software supplied with the system to create programs from CAD drawings. Is there any way to display and thereby manually edit these programs? I am very familiar with G-Code programming, but I can't get the program to display in any way that can be edited. It just shows up as a bunch of symbols and gooblygook. I would like to manually edit the programs so that I can turn the beam on for a fraction of a second at specific positions relative to the geometry of the part. I tried using "points" in the CAD drawing, the laser will stop at these positions, but the beam will not ignite to peck a hole through the material. Thanks for any help you can provide... Cheers!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I think there may be solutions that are just waiting for you to discover. Add your disguised email address to another comment and I will get back to you and also delete that comment. Best wishes Russ

[@broekspijp41]

I use distilled water for various projects (car radiator and lead acidbatteries) I tend to use rainwater and filter it through an active carbon filter. works perfectly fine!

[@pidelitagaviria2508]

I would like to thank you for all the tutorials, you be came my best friend !!! I didn’t know anything about the machine or the software l, but because of you, now I’m cutting a few small things! Many blessings to you!!!

[@WindyFellow]

Hey Russ, thanks for all the work youve put into this, Ive watched over 100 of your videos by this point. I just got that same air pump fan you are using for the exhaust here- any tips on how you rigged it to the machine or is that covered in a video somewhere? Thanks

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi The biggest tip I can give is do not use the machine sockets to drive the fan Run it from a separate mains supply power block. On my Tangerine tiger I have rigged the exhaust fan to stop about 10 seconds after the cycle stops. It starts whenever a cycle starts. The slight delay of extraction on start up is negligible. I had to make a 150mm inlet flange for the fan and also a 4" outlet flange

[@WindyFellow]

@@SarbarMultimedia thanks for the reply, I will make sure the seperate out the fans power. Ive got the flanges all rigged up now im going to install my ammeter. Youre the best man, take care

[@bikefarmtaiwan1800]

Nice job on the video Russ! Thanks for sharing . I had to laugh about your realization about " How the Chinese operate " :) Maybe they would imagine that people expect more than is realistic at the price. You have done a super job of making the reality of the situation clear. I can attest to the fact that if ...if you spend the money you can get pretty good stuff which is a good bang for the buck but if it is top top quality that is needed then of course it is important to get Japanese/ German machinery or the like from countries with a rep for high quality. Most of us just want to get the best value for the budget we have - Chinese stuff is often really good for that so long as you do not expect the world!

[@benbencom]

With the new compressor I recommend putting a small reservoir (e.g. length of PVC pipe) between the pump and the hose. It quiets the pump a lot, and it absorbs the pulses from the pump and delivers smoother air. (I have a very similar pump on my own laser cutter)

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Ben Thanks for that tip. Perhaps in my case I already have that compliance because there is about 6 feet of soft silicone pipe between the pump and the machine inlet. I will however experiment with extra volume as you suggest. Best regards Russ

[@felixdietzCGN]

thanks for this series! Im about to build a laser cutter from scratch or upgrade a chinese one (havent decided yet) no matter what, I'll watch your entire catalog to learn about the details. So far i just used commercial or pre-built machines and your in-depth knowlege is much appreciated!

[@felixdietzCGN]

also, I'm interested in software: I'm planning on using a smoothieboard and Laserweb. Currently I'm using LaserSaur on two machines.

[@louie2114]

Thank you for your video. I am planning to buying and starting a home-based business of engraving. I am offered this kind of machine that is in your video. Yes, I've searched Epilog and Trotect and they are far more expensive than the offer of this brand (4 times the price). One ting though that I would like to ask: In the forum thread below, you mentioned that, correct me if I'm wrong, one can buy this machine and buy a better tube from somewhere else with a good brand. That does mean all tubes have the same designs that one tube would fit to diff brands and machines? Thank you, again for sharing your wisdom.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Louie You have understood correctly. All tubes are basically the same technical design. However a 60 watt tube from manufacturer A may have different dimensions than a tube supplied by manufacturer B These ebay machines are marketed as engraving machines and for engraving you do not need a powerful tube because you need good control at low power, Hence a 40 or 50 watt tube is as much as you need. Go for a bigger tube and you get lots of power for cutting but poor control for engraving.. Ant ebay machine claiming to be 50 watts will be fitted with an 800mm long 40 watt tube and the 60watt machines will be fitted with a 1000mm long 50 watt tube. if you can make do with a 300x500 work, area, there are some really good deals to be had. If you can, steer clear of KeHui machines as they have a reputation for poor assembly quality along with poor tubes and power supplies. For your application you may not need to immediately buy a new tube and psu. Use what you get and you may be lucky enough to have a tube that lasts 1 to 2 years. Good luck with your new venture Russ

[@louie2114]

Hi Russ, Thank you for your time to promptly reply my message and answer the question. For few months now that I am doing research before I venture into this business to make sure I get on the right track. I went into different related forums, watched videos and asked different laser machine companies. There have been very reliable ones but quite expensive (out of my budget as a starter) as Epilog and Trotec, and cheap offers such as those that you used in your video above. Although you said you are no laser expert but I find your review very honest based from your experience. On the side, I found a good interest of Thinklaser Lightblade I am now in contact with them for a particular model. I hope they are not as high as those previous two brands I mentioned, otherwise I might just stay with the dragon one my wallet can pick.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Louie As you probably realize, I do have a Lightblade from Think Laser. It is a very good machine. As for Trotec and Epilogue, you will have noticed if you have physically seen both machines, they are essentially the Chinese design format but with many more tube options and more bespoke engineering on certain parts of their machines. They each use their own software and that's what you are paying for , their R&D and software team. Think laser's strategy is somewhat different. They have worked closely with a reputable Chinese machine builder and have specified all top end ( but still Chinese) components to make a durable and reliable machine that will perform as reliably as the two more expensive machines but at a 1/3 of the cost or less. It's a lovely reliable machine but (i think) too expensive, still, for the keen hobbyist. It is however a great investment for a small business, where you need a reliable performer from day one. I would not be without my old China blue machine because it's failings have taught me so much. For a hobbyist the ebay machines are still amazing value for money and there are many folks out there running small businesses with single and multiple machines. If you go to the Thinklaser You Tube channel you will find me doing a series of videos in my usual style that familiarizes new users with their machine. I don't like to think of them as training or tutorial videos. They allow you to build your confidence in the machine by exploring it with me. I shall be interested in how you get on. In case you need it the contact at Thinklaser is Gareth Reece [e-mail]. All best wishes and good luck Russ

[@louie2114]

Thank you again, Russ. I have in contact now with Gareth and has provided me the information I need. I am now building up the business skeletons, and once finalized, I will let you know. As of now, consider me one of your followers as i go alon the sigsags and winding alleys of this venture. Thanks heaps.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Louie You will be please to see the results of my latest video (next day or so) especially as your effotrts will be engraving. Best wishes for your new venture Russ

[@paullavin6708]

Hi I'm recommending you for sainthood. Without all your entertaining and informative tutorials I'd have a pretty ineffective boat anchor instead of something to make balsa and light ply models. I'm especially grateful for the ammeter and bouncy castle blower ideas. I'd like to pass on a tip. I worry about the tube getting hot but as you discerned, a water filled tube is a freezing hazard in case global warming doesn't let me plant an olive tree in Herts soon. I shopped the Maplin sale for a solid state freezer box that runs on the mains £44.99. 24 liter capacity and can lower the temp inside to 15 degrees C below ambient. And with the flick of a switch it can be a heater too. I'm going to relocate my water pump and sort out using my temperature controller to keep things warm for winter use. But I have two issues outstanding 1) I have to keep inputting RD8888 and CC8888 too frequently for my tastes. Have you or any of the cohort discovered how to nail that one once and for all? When I say frequent it seems like every twice an hour or if I change programs. 2) I set out to make a acrylic pegboard for some 3mm standoffs. 3mm thick acrylic at 3mm/sec with 30pc power (still running the 40W tube). It did the zillion holes fine BUT it also made long vertical cuts that just were'nt in the programme. WTF? I don't have access to copious free acrylic :-( so this is proving to be a frustrating and expensive problem.

[@Digiloog]

Hello Russ. As it is winter in the area I live I have a question. What temperature do you advise the cooling water to be to avoid a thermal shock? I’m afraid that the tube may crack when the difference is to large so I’m now keeping it at 18° C. with an aquarium heater. Thanks, have a good day.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi I live in ther London area of the K and winter temperatures are very inconsistent Sometimes we may have 150mm of snow for a week and in other years nothing. I have never experienced ant issues with my two machines because like you I have installed gently heating in the form of 4 x50 halogen bulbs . However, this year I noticed a few weeks ago, before the cold weather, that on one machine, all the bulbs needed replacing. I did not have spares so i just left the pump running continuously. I monitor both air temperature and water temperature and found the pump was causing its own heating effect and keeping the water about 6C above air temperature. I have often run my machine at 5C and never had a hint of a problem. In fact the tube will deliver an extra watt or two of power at low temperatures. I have also run at the other extreme of 45C for several hours with no ill effects except about 5% power loss. Thee key thing is to prevent freezing, because ice is more volumetric than water and WILL burst the tube. Best wishes Russ

[@Digiloog]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thanks for your kind answer much appreciated.

[@hossrod]

Thanks for the videos! I'm about to get one of these, and was wondering about them living in my shop which sees below freezing during the winter. Particularly the cooling water freezing and breaking the tub, hoses, pump, etc. I don't very relish the idea of getting all water out of the system every time I use it in the winter. Do you think automotive antifreeze could be used? Maybe RV waterline antifreeze? Something else?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi If you like to send me your email off line via the You Tube Message system I will get back to you with some more information about your concerns. In the UK (near London) we rarely get long freezing periods (maybe a few days a year at -5C but during winter nights it is often below 0C in my unheated workshop. I have two machines in there that need to be protected against the cold and they have now survived two winters with no ill effects. All best wishes Russ

[@ViciousViper79]

Great videos! Also some useful tips how to not blow out your tube in week 1. Thanks for that! Just got my 40W machine and I have already started modding it. I think you can scale down the amount of cooling water by using radiators. When first trying the machine with 1L the water became quite hot. I had some spare parts from my PC water cooling stuff and connected a couple of radiators to the cooling system. Water stays cool now with about 1L and what is inside the cooling system.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Thanks for the appreciation. The CO2 sealed tube lase is only about 10% efficient so in your 40 watt tube you will be trying to remove 360 watts of energy through cooling. Provided the ambient air temperature is not too high, air cooling can work very well for lower power lasers. I would say that your 40 watt tube will safely run at 30C but in general I would aim for about 25C max Best regards Russ

[@ViciousViper79]

Thanks for the advice! I plan to put together some temperature sensors and flow sensors with a microcontroller that will start screaming when something goes wront. I will hack in those temperatures you recommend!

[@brian2k1]

How and where did you find those cheap digital temp gauge with relay built in? I'd like to get a few of those for the same purpose. thanks! love the channel and ALL of the education it provides!!!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Brian try this www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-STC-1000-Temperature-Controller-Temp-Sensor-Thermostat-Control-110-220V-/201731996706?var=&hash=item2ef829fc22:m:mkiQLVM77gdU1ZEW_1KEsRg Best wishes Russ

[@mrburtenshaw8610]

Hello, I have just discovered your channel before I buy a similar machine from China. Just want to say thanks for your videos, there are extremely helpful and informative. will hopefully be getting up to speed with them very soon. No doubt I will be asking a few questions in the future.Thanks again

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Look carefully at the machine model number if it starts KH, my advice is to avoid. Best wishes and good luck Russ

[@mrburtenshaw8610]

SarbarMultimedia Morning, I have been watching a few more if your videos this morning, and watched one with you upgrading you tube and used a company called mactron. Would you recommend the mactron machines? They seem a little bit more expensive, but happy to pay for a better quality product as I would be using it for a small business. I'm an English man living in Mauritius so would have to import everything from China myself. Thanks for all your advice, watching your videos will undoubtedly save me a lot of time in the future.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Check out your you tube messages and there should be one there from me. Best wishes Russ

[@dannyjones3752]

Hi Russ great videos I've had one of these laser cutters for a while but unfortunately had a fire my own fault but now need to purchase several parts have you any idea where to buy spares from. Thanks Danny

[@SarbarMultimedia]

|Hi |Danny Many spare parts are available from Cloudraylaser.com. If the parts you require are not shown on their website there is a message tab on the right or better still send a picture (maybe with a couple of key dimensions) to [e-mail] Best wishes Russ

[@dannyjones3752]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thanks Russ for the very quick reply will have a look many thanks

[@GrowMau5]

I’m just starting my journey with this same model. Sincerely, thank you for taking the time to make these videos to share your insights.

[@jonesnaround]

Where did you power your water and air gauges from and what air temp are you reading? I like you set up and would like to emulate it.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-Temperature-Temp-Thermostat-Switch-Relay-Incubation-Control-Controller/142728213172?epid=4016824262&hash=item213b43b2b4:g:KSsAAOSwVzRasKZI My temperature gauges are dual purpose. I have one that monitors the return temperature from the tube and the other triggers my winterizing system from the air temperature. The gauges run from a seperate (always on) mains socket and there is a changeover relay that works the circulation pump from the machine whenever I power up and when the machine is switched off the relay cahnges so that the pump is controlled by the external (always on) power supply. When the air temperature in my workshop drops below 5C it turns on 200 watts of light bulbs to keep the machine and reservoir above 0C and turns on the circulation pump to keep the water moving. That way if any of the 4 x 50 watt halogen lightbulbs fails then warmth is still circulating around the system. It has now served me well through two winters on two machines. If you need a circuit diagram, just personal message me with your email and I'll send it Best wishes Russ

[@JohnRinNoHo]

I purchased an American made Universal Laser systems X-25 for $28,000 in 1998. Still using it everyday, no problems beyond wear and tear of bearings, belts, mirrors, lens and a couple of motors. It has paid for itself the first 6 months of this year.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi John Universal along with Trotec and Epilogue are industrial quality machines and you would only invest such sums if you had a projected workflow to justify the cost. It's an amazing commendation that your machine has performed so well but this very low cost Chinese equipment cannot be considered for comparison. As the old adage goes "you get what you pay for". It's amazing therefore that what you get works at all....but it does and quite well. It is not refined and you need to be an enthusiastic hobbyist rather than a business to own this type of equipment. However, I am amazed at how many folks DO buy this kit and start small trinket businesses Best regards Russ

[@amandafahy9051]

Thank you for your wonderful videos I'm thinking of buying one as I do a few acrylic projects. Does the laser cut a true 90 degree cut on acrylic of say 10mm depth or is the cut more of a V shaped As I do require a go straight cut for welding the acrylic

[@SarbarMultimedia]

As you hopefully be aware, there are two types of commercial acrylic. One is cast acrylic and the other is extruded. In both types, when you laser cutthe edge, there are stresses that build up as the material cools after cutting. Most folks use full air assist when cutting and that accelerates the cooling effect after the cut has taken place. Many report stress cracks appearing as soon as they attempt to glue it with normal acrylic bonding cements. see www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?51176-Having-problem-gluing-laser-cut-acrylic-parts You will see me using a solvent cement in many of my videos and I have to say that I never see signs of this stress cracking. Maybe I'm lucky, but I think it is mainly due to the fact that I always cut acrylic with minimal air assist, just over a whisper, but enough to gently blow through the cut to keep the fumes going out from the bottom of the cut. I then use a Bondrite glue that is designed for bonding PETG coded as WC123 www.bondrite.co.uk/adhesives-for-plastics/c1000029355.html As for straight cuts, none will be as perfect as a machined edge but with the right lens you will be reasonably close to flat and square . A 2.5" focal length lens should produce those reasonable results on 10mm acrylic but you will need at least 60 watts to use this type of lens and would get faster results with 100 watts. If you choose 100 watt tube then you will be able to use a 4" focal length lens for even better results. Hope this helps Best wishes Russ .

[@amandafahy9051]

Thank you for taking the time to reply I will bare in mind your helpful advice. I will have to take the time to view all your Videos. I worked for many years in a steel tooling engineering company, & it sound very similar to the process of hardening steel. With the steel being heated then rapidly cooled. The Hardened steel needed to be annealed in an oven to remove stresses & give the steel a even tempered Hardness. By reducing the cooling time of the acrylic this would achieve the same effect. Regards

[@catasabau]

i realy love your videos. they are very informative and i have to thank you for the effort. I bought the same machine today and can´t wait to unpack it. Do you have any table how to set up the machine or at which procentage to use the Laser in order to keep it working for a longer time? Greeting from Germany.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Teodor Keep you excitement high and your expectations low.. If you bought a blue machine it will be mechanically OK but almost certainly the tube will not be 50 watts but an 800mm long 40 watt tube. As well as being just 40 watts it will be a B grade tube It will probably be labelled K H Laser. and that's another long story. In general I would recommend you do not run above 65%. However, I strongly advise that you invest 5 Euros (or less) and buy an "ammeter 30mA" from ebay or Amazon. www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=ammeter+30mA&_sacat=0 For a 40 watt tube the maximum current should be 18mA. So. if you fit an ammeter you may find you can run at 80%=18mA Best wishes Russ

[@catasabau]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you very much Russ. I´ll try to always run it between 60 and 65%. I was wondering if you have any table or recommendations regarding speed-power-repetitions for paper, cardboard, wood (different thickness) or acrylic. Best regards Teodor

[@SarbarMultimedia]

​@@catasabau Hi Teodor Sadly there are no guidelines because there are so many variables involved 1) The REAL power of your tube 2)The efficiency of your mirrors and lens 3) Lens orientation 4)Lens focal length 5)The accuracy of your beam alignment .....particularly onto mirror 3 5)The accuracy of your focal length setting 6) the efficiency of your air assist, 7)The type of material and thickness you are cutting The best way to find an ideal cutting speed is to draw a 25mm test square. Set the power to the allowable maximum (set max and min the same) ......if you do not have an ammeter fitted then do not exceed 65%. Set the speed low (say 5mm/s) and try to cut your square. If it drops out cleanly then increase the speed in steps of 5mm/s until it fails to drop out . Reduce the speed by 2mm/s until it drops out cleanly. That's the best for your setup. Best wishes Russ

[@catasabau]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you very much for your prompt reply Russ. I couldn't sleep today after 5 am so i went i the garage and played with some settings. Still couldn't cut through 4 mm plywood but I am very optimistic about it. Best regards Teodor

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@catasabau Hi Teodor I did warn you to keep your expectations low. If you can, tru to track down some 10mm thick acrylic. just a smallpiece. Do you have any plastics distributors or sign companies nearby. Perhaps you could beg a small piece from their scrap bin? This material will be an important tool is seeing how good your tube is If you have some already or when you get a piece give me another shout and I will explain what you must do. Best wishes Russ

[@KehindeOjewumi]

Thanks so much for your informative and educational video. I have just ordered for a medium size laser machine from China. With this video, i intend to get a professional to look at it perfectly well before installing it. Hopefully, it will serve its purpose and i can also put your education into practical use. Keep up the good work. Will get in touch once my machine arrives.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Ordering directly from China you will at least get a machine with everything A grade. You may have to quickly get up to speed with servicing and understanding the machine yourself because it will soon require your attention and the long distance service help from China will be "difficult" Quality control is not a strong point for many Chinese companies although there are a few that have aspired to reach western standards. Sincere good luck in your venture. The machine you have bought WILL work but it will require you to posess skills and detailed knowledge to extract the best from it. Best wishes Russ

[@stephaneguilbaud7574]

Thank you so much for all these valuable advices and tricks. I am planning to buy one of these Chinese laser cutting machine and your video will definitely have an impact on my final choice. Kind regards from France.

[@riiyung1081]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYq5l56wodGHqrs Friend, if u need laser machine, can contact me. Whatsapp: [phone]

[@nafcd]

very interesting video. im totally hopeless when it comes to tech talk but you manage to describe things in a way that even I can understand. keep up the good work.

[@danieltodd3978]

love the videos, what tips do you have for doing glass work,

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Daniel I have dabbled a bit with glass but have not yet done any real in -depth study of the subject. I have just started to explore dithered photographic work on non-organic materials such as glass, slate, granite, and anodized aluminium. These promise to be very rewarding.. Have you seen the end of kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3S0oqFmoMupedE and kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3XUmGemmM2Zitk Best wishes Russ

[@pissantsseemore7095]

Russ, view youtube segment "Building a dust collector blower Matthias Wandel". Although a dust collector, consider using parts from the laser junk induction fan for a rebuild. He reduced sound Hz and uses a shop vacuum. He's quite the young engineer bus a little short on woodworking techniques. One of your buds may make two for their woodshop and give u one for idea. Like you could contact Chinese laser to produce a DIY "problem's correction" series. Take a commission on increased sales. Both doing well. ron

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Ron I have watched many of his videos and he is an entertaining young man. Although my current sound deadening system is adequate I have a simple motor speed controller (£5 from China) that I am just about to fit to mitigate the high frequency whine. This series is all about me learning to use and understand the technology behind these machines. There has been very little information out there about using these machines so when I started this journey about 16 months ago I decided it was great material for my other hobby (video) and that a few nerds may be interested in me playing in my man cave. OOps. Got that wrong. Not a few, and not nerds. I am staggered at the world- wide responses I receive daily. It has not changed my direction and what I want to achieve, I just want to understand, but in great detail. Ther fact that I spend several hours ad day bashing the keyboard means my learning progress has slowed. Keep watching because there are new things afoot!!! Best regards Russ

[@theAGanimators]

Forgive me if I missed it, but can you tell me why you have two temperature gauges? Is one sensing at the input to the laser tube and one sensing at the output? Do you find that additional info to be helpful? On another note, is there any value to having a KV meter to keep an eye on the power supply output voltage?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Glenn One thermometer is reading the water return temperature into the reservoir and the other is just monitoring the workshop air temperature. Why? Here is the UK near London the weather is never extreme but during the winter months the the temperature can be below freezing for several continuous days each winter. I do not have a heated workshop so my water filled glass tubes are at risk of freezing and bursting. I have installed heating on my machine and an external power supply that switches on when I turn the machine off. If the air temperature in the workshop falls below 5C then the heating and water pump switch on to keep everything "warm". You can see the idea by watching kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHLMfqWDfLlkhZI I see no value in a KV meter, just more potential for arcing to the case. The key control instrument is an ammeter to manage the current flow through your tube. It matters not what the operating or strike voltages are because the tube is as good as a meter. If it fires there is enough voltage, and if your tube fails to work then you have a new HV power supply on your shopping list. Best wishes Russ

[@theAGanimators]

@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, Thanks for the detailed response. I have just opposite problem in Arizona, with workshop temperatures sometimes reaching 41C, so heat will rarely if ever be needed here (do you happen to know if a CW-5200 can heat the water or is it just for cooling?). I have an X700 red and black Redsail clone and am switching to a 75W RECI T1 tube along with an 80w Cloudray power supply. I am planning to integrate my mA meter and my (single) K-type digital temperature readout into a tube 4" extension case I have a friend 3D printing for me. Imagine your white extension box, but with the front face having a slope like the front of your acrylic meter case. The two studs of the mA meter will be relatively close to the narrowed back end of the tube. I plan to use shrink tube, silicone tubing and silicone caulk to thoroughly insulate everything, but am I asking for trouble locating the mA meter in this location?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@theAGanimators Hi Glenn The CW5200 is just a refrigerator industrial cooling system. It can be quite fierce in the way it injects cold to the system If you are planning on doing low power photo engraving for example you may experience banding in your projects as the cold water cuts in and changes the power output of the laser tube by a few percent. . This can be overcome but in general it is an OK solution for your "warm" climate. "Instant cold" is power hungry and some guys are anal about running at 19.2 to 19.8C. That will be very high running cost. Take a look at this spec www.recilaser.com/en/index.php?m=&c=Index&a=show&catid=7&id=65 You will see that Reci can run their tubes up to 40 C. I have tested tubes up to 45C for a few hours with no ill effects on the tube , just a 5% loss of power. So running at 25 to 30C is comfortable and will keep your electricity bill a bit lower.. Best wishes Russ

[@JonnyRetro]

Hi Russ. Thanks for the great videos. I am looking to buy a laser cutter. Please could you tell me more about the tube and the co2. How long do the tubes last? Is it classed as a consumable of the machine and do i need to fill it with Co2 ? Thank you

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Johnny Tube life is still a mystery in my book. My dealings with Thinklaser have been very informative on this subject. Their MD is a regular visitor to the Chinese factory where his machines are manufactured. As a machine builder, that manufacturer has good relationships with all the major tube manufacturers. Thus it is via that route that I am reliably informed that the specified tube life is NOT (as you would imagine) "beam on" hours but elapsed hours from manufacture ie shelf life. Do I believe that? Not really, because of hearsay and my own experience.. It's a good starting point that tells you that even the best claims of 8,000 hours from the likes of Reci and EFR will last about a year IF it really is elapsed hours. My current tube claimed to be 4,000 hour life. It is now 18 months old and has 14,000 hours elapsed. It still performs as new. I expect to experiences a slow decrease in power over a few weeks when t does eventually start the downward spiral to death. There are many out there that have told me that their tubes are lasting way,way longer as well. Some companies do offer a CO2 regassing service but it's expensive and aimed more at industrial tubes. Just buy a whole new tube because CO2 is but one of the things that wear out or weaken. Yes, you must consider the tube as a consumable and typically expect between 2 and 4 years as a tube life. BUT the tube installed in your ebay machine will almost certainly not be a decent tube and that could last days to months (from the experience of many correspondents ) so factor in the cost of a new tube when you budget for your machine purchase, that way you will be mentally and financially prepared. Final note. Buy with your CREDIT card. Do not use your Pay Pal account or any other payment method. Your card company has a legal obligation to protect you against faulty goods that you will not get elsewhere. Best wishes Russ

[@russellw.blakeman8145]

Hello I enjoyed you videos. I do have a question for you if you have the time. I tring to set my origin on the machine. But when I using the arrows to move the laser head it always moves in large movements. Is there away to cut the step speed down to move the laser head in small increments? Also I wanting to use the multiple origin setting to be able to have preset origins set up in advance depending on the job I running.

[@paulpeters6042]

Hi Russ Really great videos. I've used a friends 40w Chinese laser and want to buy my own but I'd like a 600 x 400 due to the size of the craft items I want to cut. I've seen this machine below and wondered what you think of it ? Even, if I get it and had to add a better Tube and Power Supply? Many thanks in advance Paul

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Paul There was no link attached. Add your email to another comment and I'll delete it from public view because I get auto copied to my gmail. I will contact you off line. Best wishes Russ

[@4GivenSinner1]

Russ, Thank you so much for your videos. I have found them to be not only interesting but educational. I have bought one of these machines and am having trouble getting my rotary device to work. I have it hooked up correctly (there is no power switch for it) but the device is not rotating. Have you any experience with the chuck style rotary? If so, do you have any pointers for me to get it working correctly?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I do not have direct experience of your type of rotary but I do understand how it should work. Did it come with the machine or was it something you bought separately? I ask that question in case there is a mismatch between the stepper motors on your machine and the stepper motor on the chuck. Basically if you unplug your Y axis and plug in your rotary (with the machine switched off). When you start the machine the X axis should run to its endstop position to set its zero datum and the chuck should rotate aimlessly. because it has no end stop position to find. You will have to push the gantry back to its end stop and draw it off slightly to set the rotary axis zero. If you can get this far then you will be well on your way. Try this first and let me know. Best wishes Russ

[@rikkroon7502]

Hi Russ, I really learned a lot from your videos. there are some things i like to share with you from my expirience 1st about the water pump. i started off just like you with a tank of water and the pump supplied. however i did not use distilled water and i used a open tank with a fan on the tank as we do use the machine as a production machine and need the cooling capacity. Recently we upgraded to the CW5000 chiller and changed to distilled water as well (now it is a closed system) What i leaned about the CW5000 is that the pump inside is a lot stronger than the supplied pump. it delivers about 10l/m with a pressure of about 1 bar. So i think the original pump does not have enough power to cool correctly. In the past i was afraid to break the pipe with too much pressure, however some time ago i installed a new laser. and it was very quickly defective. i got warranty on the pipe if i did send them proof of destruction of the pipe so i did break it. WHat i learned from that is that those pipes are really strong. do you still have the old pipes? perhaps it is a good video to break one of the old pipes to show how strong they are and how thick the glass actually is. 2nd about the power meter. You do measure the amps on the negative pole of the pipe. however the pipes do leak energy to the water as well. That is the reason why the machine needs good earth connection and if not you will feel electricity on the case of the machine. the pipe do leak electricity to the water and as the water flows trough the metal connectors when it leaves the machine the electricity is transferred to the case of the machine. I figured that out when i replaced all the original hoses of the machine with garden hoses to have a better flow. now my water tank became charged. (it is a good idea to have a earth cable hanging in the water) Why do i write this... well if you measure the negative pole current then you do miss a little bit of current that is flowing via the water to earth. perhaps a good idea to put another current meter on the earth cable of the machine. Hope you can learn a bit from me as well... please keep up the good work...thanks...

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi I have had about 3 correspondents with the issue you described and an earth wire in the water tank has fixed the issue. I may have the same issue but with my system I designed is as a fully insulated system. The water pipes are non conductive, the tank is non-conductive with no leaks to earth and the distilled water is virtually non-conductive (as you will be aware pure water is an insulator it's only the chemical impurities and dissolved solids that allow it to conduct), In my case there is only one path to earth and that is via the cathode wire which passes through the ammeter. So I'm pretty sure that what I'm measuring is what's going through the tube. In your case you have earth connections via another path (your chiller) and there may well be leakage here that you are not measuring Your point is well made and I greatly appreciate your comment because I hope others will take your suggestion into account when and if they fit an ammeter The recommended flow rate for my tube is 2 litres per minute and they allow operating temperatures up to 40C, as do many top tube manufacturers such as Reci and EFR. The little pump supplied delivers just over 2 litres/min and i find it's adequate. Unlike many correspondents that live in hotter climates, here in the UK out mediocre temperatures and my non-production usage of the machine means I do not have to go to any extreme measures to cool my water. I do have a plan B for extended periods of hot weather (very rare) and that is a copper coil that I drop into my tank and pass cold tap water through it at about 1 litre per minute. Even in hot weather our tap water runs at about 13 or 14C. I do have a plan C as well. Outside my workshop I have a plastic 40 gallon rainwater tank. I can drop another circulation pump into that and pass it through my coil instead of wasting tap water. Best regards Russ

[@SpectreBeat]

Hi Russ, I just now discovered your channel and watched this video first. Fantastic! Or as you might say Brilliant. I have been shopping and learning as much as I can about using lasers and buying a Chinese laser. Your insight is truly priceless for me. I have had a large format CNC wood router for a very long time but now expanding into laser engraving and cutting. Like anyone else I want to get the most versatile machine I can. Something that can engrave nicely and also cut mdf, ply, and yes even thin metal. The path I'm treading now is looking like I need a two head machine. One at 80watt for engraving and thin cutting and a 150watt for cutting thicker wood and thin metal with O2 assist. The answers I'm getting from the Chinese manufacturers is coming back a little mixed. Are you familiar with any machines that do this well?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi My experience of twin head machines is zero but if you are going to pusue that route I would say that 80 watts is far too much power for engraving. Even with a 60 watt tube I struggle to get control of low power for engraving certain materials. A good compromise for engraving will be a 40 watt tube with a 1.5" focal length lens. Cutting is where you require the power. You are quite right that you can cut thin steel with 150 watts with oxygen assist gas but you normally require a special metal cutting head for such work.. I used to own two 3kw metal cutting machines as part of a precision sheet metal working company and these Chines machines are definitely not going to produce commercial quality work from all the results I have seen. The Chinese are the best with weasle words so be VERY sceptical of any claims. You will need bottled oxygen and a pressure regulator set to supply the required 1 to 2 bar pressure at the nozzle. It will consume large amounts of pretty expensive gas. just listen to any video of the process and you can hear the high pressure gas. If you have a metal profiling business in your area, try to arrange a visit to see just what's involved with metal cutting. Nice idea but not really a hobby activity. All best wishes Russ

[@TheHelicapt]

Thanks for video. I’m thinking of purchasing a Boss laser 1420 with a 14x20 inch bed. I only will be cutting hobby stuff and maybe some items to sell. What’s your thoughts on Boss and maybe a chiller. I’m located in Southern California with temp that an be in the 90 at days.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi I rarely get questions from Boss Laser owners , I suspect that is because they are fairly well supported by the factory. Boss machines are pretty standard Chinese lasers with a Boss badge and colours but with good quality tubes and power supplies.I do not now all the US rules and regulations but you will need to ask if the machines meet all the US machine approvals. If you are buying it and installing it yourself, with or without the approvals you will be OK but put it into a workshop and call in a qualified electrician to install /set up a power supply and you will bump into those regs head on and could be faced with hefty bills. I note that everything at Boss is VERY expensive, but that may be because of the support .......you need to check what you are paying such a high premium for. Several companies are importing Bodor machines into the USA. Still a Chinese manufactured machine, the components and build quality are superior to most and I think the prices are quite a lot lower. Worth checking them out. A 14"x20 bed will probably be supplied with a 60 watt or 80 watt tube. A machine of this size is assumed to be a CUTTING machine, but these mid range power tubes are great all rounders. You will find it will do photo engraving because you will have just about sufficient precision control of very low power while at the top power you will be able to cut 6mm, 8mm and 10mm materials (albeit slowly). Normal text and logo engraving will be OK as will 3D engraving. You will definitely need a proper refrigerated Chiller (one of the CW5000 series) to keep your tube temperature under control during summer months. Most top quality tube manufacturers allow running up to 40C and my experiments show between 5 and 8% power loss at this higher temperature. A normal maximum will be 25C where you will experience no power loss. Cold costs money so don't try and run too cool (18 or 19C). I could recommend you contact Danny Martinez for a comparative quote on [e-mail] Hope this helps Best wishes Russ

[@TheHelicapt]

SarbarMultimedia Great info. I’ll be sure to reach out to your contact listed. A lot to digest.

[@ljprep6250]

This video should be a mandatory watch before buying a laser machine. It would absolutely drive sales in a different direction. Thank you for your comments and observations.

[@isaacneuman3170]

Hi Russ - I have seen you did put a digital temp meter to your system. Which meter did you use and how did you wire it? I assume you made it to stop the machine if temps go too low or to high ? Hope you have a video for this one too ...:-)

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Isaac Not quite. The instruments are dual purpose. The water temperature is measuring the return flow from the laser tube so the display tells all. In practice I am using it to monitor the water temperature in the reservoir when the machine is off. The workshop is unheated so when the cold weather arrives it switches on two 50 watt halogen bulbs sited beneath the reservoir and also turns the circulation pump on to keep the tube supplied with warm water. to prevent freezing if the temperature drops below about 5C. There is an air temperature sensor as well which switches on two 50 watt bulbs inside the machine case itself to prevent condensation forming.. If you wish to message me with your email I can send some more information Best wishes Russ

[@bigmanblackt-shirt8506]

As others have said, these videos are priceless for those of us considering a purchase or already made a purchase. I'm sure you've answered this already but can I ask again, where exactly did you purchase the "good" tube and power supply? Thanks!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1200MM-60W-Laser-Tube-60W-co2-Laser-Power-Supply/321243_1109607209.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.44fb50ed6p7PZl Best Wishes Russ

[@vaughanza]

Love your channels, thanks for taking the time to make videos

[@jeordanrenouf]

I have the exact same machine and use it for my business and had nothing but problems with tubes dying and power supplies dying on me. When running a business that is 90% dependant on the laser it gets extremely stressful. I think I'll be looking for the same tube and power supply you have opted for. You able to supply me the exact details for these so I don't hey screwed over again. kind regards

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Jeordan Yes, it took me a little while to realize that ebay is NOT the place to go looking for a new tube and power supply. That's where they dump all the B grade rubbish. You generally cannot buy direct from a Chinese manufacturer but have to go through their version of Ebay called Aliexpress or Alibaba. However, you are buying direct from the manufacture where these organizations are like a big shop window. You will be buying A grade products if you choose reputable manufacturers. I chose Mactron because they were a smaller company making their own power supplies and tubes but were dedicated to providing a high class service and a top quality product at a reasonable price. Here is what I ordered www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1200MM-60W-Laser-Tube-60W-co2-Laser-Power-Supply/321243_1109607209.html This is what was shipped mactron.en.alibaba.com/product/60206922896-219893473/Co2_Laser_Tube_70_Watt_For_Laser_Cutting_Machine.html It was an MTS-T70 tube 1250mm long with matching power supply. Several people have followed my steps and most have been treated the same way. It is a good idea to write directly to Gelly Dung on [e-mail]. Ask for a quotation and part numbers for the 60 watt power supply and tube that she supplied to Russ Sadler. You may be lucky enough to get the same good deal. The bad news is that DHL double the price of your purchase with their courier charges and then you will pay about another $100 for import tax. Ouch!! but it was worth it to have a product that just worked reliably and predictably. Good luck Best regards Russ

[@PlonkaGames]

Hi, great videos. I've had a Flash Laser K40D laser machine for around 6 months and in that time I've had to change the Power Supply. Until recently, I haven't used it very much but I know need to use it more, due to demand for the things I make. I have a % display on the front and this is usually set at 60% for normal cutting. I'm happy with what it does, but I want to do more, a bit quicker and also cut larger things as I can only cut 300 x 200 as you know. To be fair to the manufacturer, they sorted my Power Supply issue very quickly, but I am very conscious of the possibility of the Tube stopping and the time it will take to get a replacement. Ideally, I'd like to go to a cutting area of 600 x 400 if possible or something in-between the 2. Can you recommend a UK based company and machine I could look at to get an idea of cost etc. Thanks for your time Cheers Frank

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Frank As you are uk based there are 3 possibilities but it depends what you want. If you want an immediate plug and play high quality machine 600 x400 with a 60watt tube say you are talking around £6k +vat You canget a 50x30 machine from ebay supposedly 50 watts but in reality it will be a 40 watt B grade tube with a B grade power supply. Good value for about £1200 to £1400 but you will need to add another £500 to that for a reliable A grade tube and power supply It will probably work pretty well and be reliable, but there are many things that I found annoying and have changed. My 5030 is now an absolute gem. A70 50 machine will have exactly the same issues but will be about £1700 plus £600 for new tube and power supply. Something I have just seen on Ebay is a machine like mine that hass already been fitted with a new power supply and tube and looks almost brand new at 850 is an absolute snip www.ebay.co.uk/itm/laser-engraver-laser-cutter-50w-SPT-laser-tube-power-supply-gold-coated-mirrors/143027247865?hash=item214d169af9:g:F1YAAOSw7R9b-qPi:rk:11:pf:0 The 3rd possibility is to import direct from China More hassle but maybe about 20% cheaper overall. Hope this helps a bit Best wishes Russ

[@PlonkaGames]

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. Who do you recommend from China ? Flash Laser - other ? If I get a price for a 6040 size from China, any idea the cost of the improved PS and Tube ? Also, are these 2 parts able to be purchased from the UK ? Thanks Frank

[@russsadler3471]

@@PlonkaGames Two companies to consider www.mektex.com/en/5a358718e4f446ef9e7d7bfaaee33977 www.transoncnc.com/tn-cabinet-models/tn4060-co2-laser-machine.html If you request a quotation with an EFR tube and power supply (60 watts?), you will get A grade products and will not need to consider replacements. You will be able to buy replacement parts in the UK Best wishes Russ

[@PlonkaGames]

Thanks Russ I'm getting some quotes. Do you know a good supplier in the UK where I can buy a Tube and Power Supply for my current K40D ? Would you recommend buying the same types of PS and Tube or get better ones ? If better ones, do you have a name/type/spec to help me ask for pricing ? Many thanks Frank

[@PlonkaGames]

Hi I'm waiting for the quotes from the suppliers you mentioned but I wondered what you thought of this machine ? m.alibaba.com/product/60773735969/Cheap-price-Co2-laser-cutting-engraving.html?spm=a2747.manage.list.79.66fc71d29vnaNiice&subject=Cheap--price--Co2--laser--cutting--engraving&detailId=60773735969&redirect=1 Thanks Frank

[@AndyShrimpton-GaaTech]

hi russ is it not a bad idea to have the short section of copper pipe on the top of you water pump

[@YGOPaisano]

I am looking to pickup one of these to engrave on leather. Can you please give me some advice. I am looking to create 24' x 14' mats on my machine, do you have any suggestions or recommendations?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi I hope you mean 24x14 inches rather than feet!!! The laser process is a burning mechanism , so cutting leather or engraving it is a VERY smoky and smelly business. But look around you tube for some guys doing it and you will see that it works well. You will not need a pwerful machine, something like 60 watts is a good compromise. I use the word compromise because cutting and engraving have conflicting requirements. You need little power (maybe 10 to 15 watts) to engrave well but you need lots of power to CUT. If you go out and buy a 150 watt machine, you will be able to cut leather at lightening speeds but when it comes to engraving...oops not enough control at low power. That's why they have twin laser machines with a 150 and 40 watt tubes on one machine. You will undoubtedly buy from ebay, if so there are two major pieces of advice. First do not buy a KeHui brand machine (it's a long story) and secondly make sure you buy with your CREDIT card. Ebay guarantees are useless and PayPal do not cover manufacturing equipment. by all means send me a private message with a link when nyou have settled on a machine and I'll point out any issues Best regards Russ

[@YGOPaisano]

Thank you so much! And yea, I definetly mean inches, sorry. I looked around for a few and did'nt find any machines that were big enough to cut a 24" x 14" mat, and I was wondering if you knew a couple. Good idea about the credit card, I will definetly do that. I'm still looking around for a machine to buy and I appreciate any and all tips you can give me!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

This machine would be ideal for your requirements 27.5"x 19.7" and a supposed 60 watt tube. In reality it will be a 1000mm long 50 watt tube of dubious quality. The tube may last weeks or over a year so that's just a word of warning. The basic mechanics are usually pretty good and you basically are getting a lot for your money. You can buy a better quality machine with support from a local distributor of this type of mackine but you will be paying 4 times the price for almost the same thing. If you are prepared to tinker with your machine and are not phased by problems but set to solving them, then you will enjoy this sort of machine. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CO2-LASER-ENGRAVER-ENGRAVING-CUTTING-MACHINE-CARVING-PRINTING-60W-USB-PORT/201430056910?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D2073199bca43458da41caf239cdb6558%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D222590654498 Still working in inches tells me you are in the USA. You will find something similar on ebay.com. Best regards Russ

[@YGOPaisano]

OMG, Seriously thank you so much! I am looking to do a design of something thats similar to this design on a leather mat btw. www.etsy.com/listing/230707898/leather-playmat-chandra Thanks so much for all your advice and input. It really does help alot!

[@YGOPaisano]

Also I think I found one. Can you please let me know which of these are the right one, or are they both the same. www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Engraving-Cutting-Machine-Engraver-Cutter-USB-Port-60W-CO2-/282428370151?epid=0&hash=item41c20aece7:g:v6MAAOSwB-1YrTEw www.ebay.com/itm/60W-CO2-USB-Port-Laser-Engraving-Cutter-Machine-Engraver-700x500mm-w-Water-Pump-/181922072654?epid=933608652&hash=item2a5b66884e:g:3jwAAOSwTM5Y0PA3

[@eviltoadstudios]

Will have a pint to celebrate, Cheers and thanks again for sharing everything you've learned.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Tom It's a sad day when you have to find some silly excuse to down a pint!!! Thanks for your appreciation and I'm looking forwards to what year two will bring. Still so much to understand and other opportunities to explore. Best regards Russ

[@TheDwilliams1000]

How do I replace the flimsy bed in this thing? I need something more sturdy.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi David I have started a new series about converting one of these machines into an RF driven unit. However, using all the knowledge and experience gained with my blue machine , I rip it apart and add several improvements. One of those is to add a stiff 3mm steel table. See this video from 7min 25 sec kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKfbmHaHntOGlcU Best wishes Russ

[@Repair-rookie]

Hi Russ, just started watching your videos on the Chinese laser. Is it easy to setup the machine to run the laser a 30 or 40watt to get more life from the laser Tube?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Courtney Overdriving your laser tube with too much current will shorten it's life dramatically. If your tube is 800mm long it is a 40 watt rated tube and should not be run at more that 18mA. if it's 700mm long then stay at 16ma max Best wishes Russ

[@mygiguser]

Would this work to add Trisodium Phosphate and/or sodium hydroxide to the water to change the pH to 9 or 10, that way the water should last forever?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Here we are two and half years later and I still have my original distilled water in the reservoir. It's not green and no sludge in the tube. I still taste it once a month (with a finger dip) and check it for a slimy feel. My system has no metal in it and I have a closed system so no airborne bugs have ever been able to get in . Anyone with a chiller system would likely suffer with your pH9 or 10 solution, because it will slowly dissolve the aluminium cooing coils. The other secret weapon in any laser tube is the UV generated by the ionized nitrogen. UV is a sterilizer. Most of these cheaper laser tubes are glued together with an epoxy resin and I did not wish to walk into the unknown long term effects of not using the recommended distilled water. Some folks have used auto antifreeze. Each to his own. Thanks for the thought, it's always good to look at new possibilities Best wishes Russ

[@907252]

Can't thumbs-up enough! So much useful advice, thank you.

[@RickEverett]

Just picked up my laser today....Holy, it does take up a bit of room. I think I purchased the exact same as yours Russ. (DSP Contoller V8, 4500DPI, 3050 Unit) I will not use it, until I get my mA meter installed, just to show that you can prolong the life of your laser tubes. Great idea! Enjoy, Russ....

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Rick Don't deny yourself. You have already learned from my mistake. Lets assume you have a 40 watt tube so run it by all means but don't use it with more than 60% dialed-in power. A quick check of a few minutes up to 90% to check out the characteristic of the tube will not do any lasting damage and will clearly demonstrate why you are wasting your time (and tube life) with numbers above 65% Best regards Russ

[@jasepotts2865]

Where did you buy it from? I can't find one with the motorised bed? Thanks

[@markrom1234]

Hi Russ may I ask where I would go to get new focal lense and new nozzles from my laser seem to be the same as yours with a 18mm lense

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi My go to source for all things laser is www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/co2-laser Best wishes Russ

[@eagl-sembroideryandprint]

Hi Russ. Great videos BTW. I have a machine the same as in your video. I am having reliability issues with my power supply. The unit with the red wire going to the laser tube. I have had two now after only about 10-15 hrs of use and the second one has failed now. The seller wants £60 to post out the warranted part so is going to make it a tad expensive to run. I just wondered if i bought the power unit for a more powerful tube it will work and be more reliable? Doing this will also future proof the machine so I can fit a better tube when that fails. I'd appreciate your thoughts. All the best. Gary

[@deangreenhough3479]

Fantastic 1 year review. Just what I was looking for as I am starting out. Bless you for saving me so much hassle. You sir have a new subscriber 👍😀

[@mikesfarmmikesfarm3977]

Russ, i have watched most of your vids. i amready to buy a chinese laser , but after watching this vid i am not sure what to buy, tube power wise. i would like at least 80 watts. if your second tube is also chinese how is it better. should i just buy a lower powered cheaper one and once it breaks buy a 80 watt tube and ps ? link to your tube vendor ? thanks for the great vids. Mike

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Mike If you buy an Ebay machine you will definitely not get what is promised. It will be fitted with a tube that is actually at least 10 watts less than promised but then that tube will be a repurposed reject from one of the main tube makers. Yes it will work well enough to fool the usual keen but naive Ebay buyer but your 50 watt tube may turn out to be 30 watts. Is this a bad deal? I bought the small 5000x300 machine with plans to upgrade at some future date. If I had bought the 60 watt 700x500 it would have cost another £500. Did I need the bigger machine? I decided not and reasoned that I could use that £500 to upgrade toa proper 60 watt system in my own time. When I came to understand how this Chinese laser machine "fraud" works, I realised that I had accidentally made the right decision because I could have spent the extra £500 on the bigger machine and still have had to spend to put an A grade 60 watt tube and power supply into it. Buy a small machine with linear HiWin type bearing rails and a Ruida control system and you have the basis of a good CNC machine at a budget price. Use what you buy to get a feel for the machine and technology. Inconsistent or poor performance may force you sooner rather than later into that upgrade. I was lucky with my research and hit on a reliable source for a 60 watt tube and power supply. Three and a half years on and it is still as good as new. Since that time I have found a very trusted supplier in China. You may yearn for a named tube such as Reci but don't waste your money because my experience from playing with 7 such tubes of various powers has left me underwhelmed. Take a look at cloudraylaser.com . I normally distrust rebranded tubes but I know that the Cloudray own brand are A grade SPT tubes. They are excellent value for money and perform MUCH better than their specification suggests. I know that the tubes are properly tested by Cloudray before shipment. They only supply A grade kit and they truly understand the meaning of customer service (a rare thing amongst Chinese businesses). See these metal ended tubes www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/cloudray-laser-tube/products/35-45w-720mm-co2-laser-upgraded-metal-head-tube-cr35?variant=12782294270003 Good luck with your new venture. I'm sure it will not be trouble-free but it will be fun moving towards a reliable machine. Make sure you buy the machine with your CREDIT card. Any protection that Ebay or PayPal promise is worthless. If it all turns really messy you can threaten a charge back from your credit card provider. Your seller will almost certainly be a PRIVATE ebay Chinese seller who has never seen the machine but is selling it from a warehouse for commission. If you can prove a bad quality tube (you will need a power meter to do that) you stand a good chance of some refund money (£200 maybe) for a replacement tube. Don't push too hard because it's eating into his commission. Best wishes Russ

[@geast67]

Hello Thanks for your great videos. I was wondering if you know anything about the "pen" processing mode. With a search in the internet i could not find anything.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I you have auto focus on your machine you can configure the pen command to be controlled by the Z axis. You can specify different offsets away from the surface auto focus point for different layers. The table is actually the thing that raises and lowers relative to the autofocus switch (often called a pen). If you do not have Z axis stepper control then don't worry about it. Best wishes Russ

[@DJQuantumX]

Hopefully this thread isn't so old that I won't get an answer. I have the same machine and am looking at modding the side and installing an 80 watt tube and power supply. What diameter of tube do I need to look for in order to ensure that it will mount and line up like the stock 50 watt (actual 40 watt) tube? Thanks in advance.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Your existing tibe will be 50mm diameter. Yes, you can find 80 watt tubes with a 50mm diameter but they are usually cheap, "old school" design and 1600mm long. Modern 80 watt tubes will be 55 mm diameter and about 1250mm long.. You will find some great 80 watt tube bargains on Ebay. Be VERY careful because they are cheap for a reason. They will usually be B grade reject tubes from a major manufacturer that have failed their final tests. Yes the will work but who knows to what standard.. There are very few trusted sources unless you buy direct from a manufacturer. However I can validate one trusted source and that is cloudraylaser.com. They sell their own branded tubes as well as others. Cloudray do not manufacture tubes so normally I would run a mile from any rebadged tube. However, I know that Cloudray have negotiated a rebadging deal with SPT ( a real top tube manufacturer) and their tubes are A grade tubes at a great price. They are also VERY conservatively rated You can see me fitting a CR70 (70 watt) tube to one of my machines and you will also see it being tested as more 80 watts at it's safe working current. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJDImXp7apalfpY Check out your tube clamps to make sure they will take a 55mm diameter tube Best wishes Russ

[@DJQuantumX]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you sir.. You are a wealth of knowledge.

[@abhishekjakate2195]

Dear Russ Can you guide to construct 2513 size machine.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi That is a big full sheet machine that you are looking for. This is a reliable company with a wide range of products. It is the same company that make s my small Lightblade machine. www.transoncnc.com/transon-cnc-co2-laser-engraving-and-cutting-machine-2 Best wishes Russ

[@johnnyingram938]

I'm thinking about getting a laser cutter so many versions out there which is best to get for beginners?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi It's a simple question with no easy answer. Before you even start choosing a machine you need to have some sort of vision about why you want one. So your not a fisherman, golfer, sailor or a pilot and you need something in your man cave to keep the wife at bay???? You have a hobby that you want to support such as railway modelling and would find it useful for making model buildings etc. You want a hobby that may turn into a small business or maybe you are already planning to use it from day 1 to start a business? Clarifying your need will help define the general type of machine you want. The smallest and cheapest machines are little desktop machines called K40.. Without wishing to offend anyone reading this that has a K40, I would look beyond to a bigger and more flexible machine. You will probably buy a Chinese machine from Ebay. . The sensible first time choices will be a work area of 500x300mm which will be fitted with a 40 watt tube (they will advertise it as 50 watts but it's not). the next size will be 600x400mm (quite rare) but usually you find 700mmx500mm fitted with a 50 watt tube (they will claim it to be 60watts) as the next size. More than this size for a beginner I would not recommend. There are very few I would spend my money on but this looks like a good deal. www.ebay.com/itm/laser-engraver-cutter-machine-marking-machine-400-600-6040-80w-ruida-cnc-router/143082655440?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D4e8267348dde415381a104e264433d6e%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D302941727876%26itm%3D143082655440&_trksid=p2045573.c100667.m2042 A cheaper version may suit yuo better. It will have a 50 watt tube but still looks a nice build www.ebay.com/itm/4060-50w-ruida-laser-engraver-machine-carver-cutting-Acrylic-glass-plywood-cnc/143051312601?hash=item214e85cdd9:g:YpoAAOSw~2VcE1vt However read the small print about import/customs charges and do some research. Shipment to a port maybe free but to your house? If you wish to attach your email to another comment I will respond and also delete your comment/email from public view. You can then send me links that you may be interested in and I will comment. Best wishes Russ

[@johnnyingram938]

I would mainly use it for Acrylic and glass etching and add some lighting to it

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Your requirements are conflicting. CUTTING requires as much power as you can muster, whereas ETCHING/ENGRAVING does not. If you choose a powerful tube for efficient cutting (100 watts or more) you will be compromising your ability to engrave at low power. You cold happily engrave with a 40 watt tube and have lots of low power control. With powerful tubes you lose that low power control because of the non-linear power output characteristics of most tubes.. 60watts would be an ideal compromise where you will have the best of both worlds but your cutting will be a bit slower. Best wishes Russ

[@cliffordknights5185]

Russell have you every had a water error issue

[@nicojk79]

Hi Russ! I have to say I love your videos; as an (almost, just some paperwork needed) engineer myself I find your videos very educational and entertaining and I really like how do you explain everything with charts,graphs and numbers and not only by the five oscillating fingers rule as many other youtubers do. :D I am on my way of getting my own machine from China and not only that I am anxious of getting the same to start playing with it, but I am also puzzled with some questions: - My machine is going to be of 130w tube (or is it going to deliver less than that? I will figure that out), how much current do I have to let pass through the tube? The 22 mA rule applies too? - I kept asking my vendor about the turbine for extracting the fumes, but they keep saying that the fan that comes with it is just enough. In your opinion, should or should I not get one? - I have seen that many users have an industrial chiller instead of the water pump; many claim that the water pump is not good enough for a semi professional use. Will it make any difference with the pump they ship the machine with?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Nico Lots of questions , none of which can be given with simple two word answers. Could you add your email to another comment and I will answer and also immediately delete your comment from public view. If you have a link to the machine you are buying that would be very useful also. Best wishes Russ

[@nicojk79]

@@SarbarMultimedia please do not forget of me! :D

[@azharAD]

How do we connect the Ameter? in series with the laser tube? or with the whole machine?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi All explained in kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnW9nqiuppp1e68 Best regards Russ

[@johncuffe1209]

do you have a video for installing the ammeter ?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi John, Yes. see kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnW9nqiuppp1e68 Good luck Russ

[@rho35100]

HI WHERE ARE YOU CONNECTING THE AMPERIMETER? CAN YOU SHOW?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Charles the cable coming out of the low voltage end of the tube (nearest to mirror 1) needs to be cut and the ammeter inserted there. Take a look at kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnW9nqiuppp1e68 Best regards Russ

[@Stigman11]

Nice videos Russ, and I think you have helped a lot of peoples. I am wonder, do you think this machine can be used/tuned for metall cutting with 150-250W Tube?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Metal cutting a whole new world which these machines can just about do with 150 pluss watts. However it is not simple like non-metal cutting. I have owned 2 metal cutting 3wk CO2 laser machines for industrial use. The technology is completely different. Basically You will need a special (much heavier) metal cutting head that needsa pneumatic raise and lower for the nozzle. You will need to replace the air assist with oxygen assist at about 0.8bar for mild steel. You will not be able to cut other metals like brass, copper or aluminium because the high reflectivity of the material could easily destroy your lens Stainless steel can be cut with the same head BUT the cost will sky rocket because you cannot allow ANY oxygen to get to the cut area, so you need to shield the cut area , raise the power/slow the speed and use medical grade nitrogen at about 12 BAR (yes 250 psi) to get clean commercial grade cuts. It is just not a hobby activity to laser cut metal. You need to visit a commercial laser profiling shop to see just what the process is and the infrastructure required. You need a huge work flow to justify the expenditure. Do a lot more hands on research before spending your money. It's a lot cheaper to get your dxf files to a laser profiler and let them use their own stock material. Best wishes Russ

[@Stigman11]

SarbarMultimedia Thanks for the informative explanation, but you killed my plan for a relative cheap cutter plan🙄 Back to the drawing table... What is the product name of your machine? Maybe link👍🏻 Thanks again

[@SarbarMultimedia]

This is what I bought but obviously from here in the UK www.ebay.com/itm/50W-CO2-Laser-Engraving-Machine-Engraver-Cutter-With-Auxiliary-Rotary-Device-/151785082682 Best wishes Russ

[@Stigman11]

SarbarMultimedia thanks again, I will think about it. Looks like a lot of machine for not so much $, but need to be prepared for everything right👍🏻

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Be prepared for a crap tube and power supply. It is generally mechanically sound and needing some TLC as you will see from my videos. If you need it to plug and play for a small business, I would not recommend but as a hobby machine where you HAVE to learn how to be your own 24/7 tech support, it's a fantastic learning aid . Replace the tube and power supply and you have a pretty good piece of kit for still not very much money. Best wishes Russ

[@loryleal79]

have you had any problems with a round image going crooked at the top close to completion?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Lory I am going to answer confusingly yes and no. . No I have never experienced it with my machines but yes I can make it happen. Let me try to explain. There is a term called backlash which can affect both cutting and engraving. It gets hidden during engraving but pops into the open during cutting. There are two types of backlash. One is mechanical and can be because (in your case) the Y axis belts are not tensioned correctly. This can produce the effect you are seeing. This is an unpredictable backlash that must be fixed mechanically because the electronic compensation will only work on the inherent fixed system backlash. If you are sure your belts are correct and that your drive pullet fixing screws are not loose, then you can go to the RDWorks user tab and find backlash X and backlash Y adjustments. With your PC hooked up to your machine, press the READ button at the bottom of the window. This will transfer your current settings from the machine into RDWorks where you can see them. You can only add positive numbers into the backlash . Make a note of the X and Y numbers already there and then add say 1mm. Press WRITE to send the new value back to the machine and then retest. This will make your problem significantly worse but it will show you the effect of the backlash function. Type in a new smaller value(0.05 mm or 0.1 mm typically) and press WRITE again, Retest, modify and WRITE until you have fixed the problem. Hope this helps Best wishes Russ

[@frankgreshake9053]

Hello! Thank you for your very interesting videos. I have a question: I just received a laser from the same manufacturer - but a smaller machine with a 40W. In this video you said that the tube of a 50W machine will truly have 40W tube power. Does it mean if I bought a 40W machine the tube has 30W power? There`s a sticker on the tube: peak power 40W ; agreement power 39W - I´m not sure at which settings I should run the tube: If it really is a 30W tube I should not go higher than 16mA, right? Or is it save to run the tube at 18 mA? Is it possible to find out which power the tube can stand without straining it? Thank you in advance for your answer.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Frank It all depends on the overall length of your tube. The chances are that you have a K40 machine (smaller than mine) which will claim to have a 40 watt tube. A true 40 watt tube will be 800 mm long and 50mm diameter. The chances are that you have a tube that will be 600 or 700mm long. 600mm is a 30 watt tube which I would not run at more than 16mA and 700 is a 35 watt tube run at max of 17mA. It worries me about the manner of the wording on your tube. It sounds like it may be labeled KH Laser? Peak power is what unscrupulous vendors quote. This is not a power you can use. It is also very rare to find the peak power and the "agreement" power so similar. This sounds like a B grade tube that has been relabeled. All best wishes Russ

[@gasman9845]

do you have a video on how to do multiple items EG. engrave multiple wooden coat hangers

[@Anonymous-hh4js]

What is the best way to cut through the paper cover on my acrylic with it charring or leaving burn lines on the sides without having to take the paper off? any advice would could help :)

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Reo Burning can only mean one thing and that is too much heat in one place for too long.. In Europe most of the acrylic is covered with a plastic film that is non-toxic. I did notice when I was in Florida earlier this year that all of your acrylic seems to be paper covered. I had pretty good success with it. I normally use only the smallest amount of air assist when cutting acrylic but with a paper covering you need as much as possible.The secret to any cutting is balancing the power with the speed. That can be a tricky one to sort out because what works for a 1" test square will not work for a 1/4" test square. With the small square the cutting head never accelerates to the full speed that you set for the big squsre so you may need several different layers for different complexity/sizes.The next rick is to raise the work on pins about an inch above your work table that way you get lots of airflow under your work.I can hear you saying "but my honeycomb table does that" Stop and think logically about it. It is aseries of CLOSED cells that your work is resting on. Every time yuour beam passes over an edge it produces a reflection that will cause a paper burn or damage the back of your work if you have removed the paper.. So space on the rear side of your job and using 90% of the energy you are putting into your cut on the cut itself. If you have too much energy escaping from the BOTTOM of your cut then you are going to slow./ Do some trials with a 25mm square test program. Use full power to start and keep stepping the speed up until the square does not drop out. Check edge finish plus top and buttom burning at each stage and I think you will find a neat solution. Thanks for an interesting question Best regards Russ

[@Anonymous-hh4js]

Thank you for the feed back! I will definitely put it to practice and see what I can do. :)

[@ashkansadeghi124]

Hi Sarbar, Do you know why my red cable connected to the tube makes a strong electricity spark when i press pulse button? many thanks in advance

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Ashkan That spark is more than 25,000vols dc and is very dangerous. It should be applying that voltage to your tube to make it fire. The fact that it is not means only one thing....poor insulation somewhere.. You should check to make sure the red cable insulation has not chaffed on the frame during transit and also make sure that it is sealed to the tube well (see kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHS3o4WKZqiSm7s from about 12minutes) The good news is that your power supply is working but be very careful when working with this red cable. Turn your machine off and leave it for about half an hour before touching the red cable. There may be stored energy in the power supply that will give you a very nasty bite. Best regards Russ

[@ashkansadeghi124]

Hi Sarbar, Thank you so much for your invaluable advises and tutorials. Kindest regards

[@WHJeffB]

How fast are you trying to cut a particular thickness of material? Even 40W is more than enough to cut paper/cardstock/wood in most thicknesses that you'd use for hobby use. If you can't cut a thick material at max laser power, slow it down. You don't have to cut at full power all the time. You can cut thin wood at about 5-8W. I have a friend that outfitted a 8W LED laser to his 3D printer and he's cutting up to 1/8" basswood in one pass. Granted he's not going fast, but it is getting it done.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

One thing you must appreciate is that the main property of a laser beam is that it is monochromatic and all the light waves are in phase. The colour of the light defines its wavelength. and the longer the wavelength the more power it carries. You will already understand this concept when a car drives by playing loud music. You will not hear the high and mid frequency (short wavelength) sound, only the long wavelength bass beat. Your friiend's diode laser will be working at 400 to 600 nanometer wave length . The CO2 laser I have emits light at 10600 nanometers , so 20 times longer wavelength. Why does that matter? It's all to do with the way that the light energy stimulates the material molecules. I'll not go any further into the physics other than to say that you are trying to compare apples and oranges. The material range cut or engraved by a short wave laser will be different than those cut or damaged by a long wave laser. Basswood is an excellent example because it is almost impossible to cut with a CO2 laser, very strange because its just another wood and you would expect it to be cut easily. Sadly the more complex molecular structure is poorly stimulated by CO2 longer wavelength light and will not heat up as much.. 1 cut card stock at about 10 watts but most materials you would want to use ma power and set the speed to get the cleanest cut. Tke for example 2mm birch plywood . A 2" lens and 60watts will allow cutting at about 25mm/s. You get efficient burn-free cutting PROVIDED the cut is at 25mm/s. As soon as you get complex or small shapes , say 3mm holes, then the speed will never get to 25mm/s and the power will be too ugh and you will get burnt edges to the holes.. There is no such thing as the right speed or power for a particular material. You really ought to break your job down into at least two layers(one small and complex shapes and one large and simple shapes) and apply cutting parameters appropriate to each. Go forth and experiment, there is so much more to these machines than selecting a speed and power. Best wishes Russ

[@WHJeffB]

@@SarbarMultimedia There's somethings you got right in there, but not much. The wavelength of light has more effect on the actual materials you can cut. For example, brass cuts poorly using a CO2 laser @10.6um wavelength, but cuts very cleanly using an Nd:YAG at 1.064um wavelength. On the other hand, something like basswood cuts very well using CO2 (with your cut quality being determined primarily by power, focal point position, focal length and feed rate), but looks pretty ugly using Nd:YAG. For the materials you are cutting with these low power lasers, you can play with power and feed rate to get the quality you want for a given thickness (generally). If you can cut a given thickness at a certain feed rate, using full power, you can cut the power by 10-20%, then play with the feed rate to get your cut back to where you want it to be. This changes with some with the type and pressure of the gas that you flow through the nozzle, down through the cut. You are correct in that you can monitor mA/current supplied to the laser to better manage the power. On these machines, that's probably the more accurate way to monitor power as the laser tube itself has no power monitor on it. Also... In another one of your videos, you were showing the laser light and saying that the pink light was nitrogen gas. It is not. It's helium. CO2 lasers (generally, based on my experience with much higher laser powers) use a mix of CO2, N2 and Helium gas. Helium is used to cool and stabilize the gas mixture. N2 is energized by the power input into the laser tube, which then energizes the CO2, which would be difficult to do without the N2. This is a simplification of how it works, but that's the basic idea. There may also be trace amounts of other gases in there to promote one part of the reaction or another. Don't want to really debate this... I have 25 years of experience working with laser cutting systems, primarily high power (2-10kW) CO2 and YAG sheet metal cutting machines. I've done just about everything on/with them. Installation/repair, building/testing the lasers, building and testing the machine dynamics, applications, etc... Not trying to be a dick... Just giving background so you know I have experience in this field and I'm not some KZbin comment section troll.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@WHJeffB Thanks so much for your reply. Where were you 3 years ago when I was struggling to understand the physics of this technology. Many hours of trawling through hardly understandable scientific papers allowed me to eventually piece together the operating mechanism for these sealed tube CO2 lasers and it is exactly as you have described. I never considered helium to be the ionized gas because from all that I read, helium is pale yellow when it ionizes. Our air is almost 80% nitrogen and lightning is a pinky mauve as it ionizes the air on it's way to ground. We agree that nitrogen is the means by which the CO2 gains its extra energy. All gases are naturally non conductive and it it not until they ionize that they can carry current. The colour and light intensity of the pink beam increases as the current flow increases, therefore it seemed unquestionable that it was the nitrogen acting as the stimulating mechanism I know nothing about your short wavelength lasers other than they can do things like brass, copper and aluminium cutting that I could never attempt with the two 3kw CO2 machines I owned for 10 years. Mild steel, stainless steel and acrylic was all I cut within the sheet metal business I ran. Dropping to 60 watts sealed tube , non-metal cutting machines turned out to be a universe away from the sophistication of industrial machines. . I'm having great retirement fun and am always happy to learn so I greatly appreciate your response. This sort of physics was never on my school curriculum but it's been rewarding and great exercise for my two remaining grey cells Best wishes Russ

[@WHJeffB]

@@SarbarMultimedia 3 years ago I was thinking that these types of machines (from China) were junk and not worth the money. After watching some of your videos, plus many others, I realized that this is not the case. While not perfect, or on par with a commercial machine (such as Epilog or Universal), with some modifications and "tweaks" they can be a really good machine for a hobbyist, or even a decent low volume production machine. I've watched several of your videos now, in preparation for the delivery of my machine and I would like to thank you for sharing your experiences with us KZbin'rs. Very helpful indeed!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@WHJeffB I know that Trotec Epilog and Universal are in a different league as far as build quality , engineering and raw speed but I have seen them at exhibitions and they always seem to engraving things like the Aztec calendar. detailed yes and fast but their dithered photo engraving is about 5 out of 10 on my scale. Their lens systems do not appear to accommodate compound lenses so they are stuck with fairly low res images, even though they do their image processing at 600 dpi, their half tone engraving method is not suited to laser technology. They have rapid response RF tubes that they are not exploiting fully. So if you want a dedicated engraving machine for fairly simple graphics then go forth and spend a shed load of money. When it comes to cutting the ball game changes. The Chinese machines use the same lenses, have the same or greater watts to play with and speed is no longer an issue because you will be in the 5 to 35 mm/s cutting zone and not scanning at 1000mm/s. There is nothing magical about rf pulsing power for cutting so at 1/20th the price the Chinese machines win hands down, The whole aim of my learning journey is to understand the technology and work out what the extreme performance envelope is for this stupidly cheap CNC technology. It is full of small design compromises but when understood and tinkered with, you will get a machine that outperforms the "big boys" in certain areas but at a price that will put a smile on your face. I use the "big boys" as my benchmark and I have two correspondents (one Trotec and one Epilog) from whom I can get comparative data. I am in regular communication with several guys that started their small business off with 1 machine and after 2 years are at 3 or 4 machines. Take a look here for an example facebook.com/lasermadeira/ Welcome to the community Best wishes Russ

[@danielroibert5631]

Hello, do you describe somewhere where you buy your last good laser tube ? I think i need to change mine.

[@zengyuchen]

Hello, Daniel, you could directly buy laser tube from amazon. check dihorse

[@carlosgittens5879]

Can you please say where you got your tube from there's no link or name or anything or I just missed something

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Carlos this is what I bought www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1200MM-60W-Laser-Tube-60W-co2-Laser-Power-Supply/321243_1109607209.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.wDQqRI If you look at the bottom of the website there are links to other tubes and manufacturers YOu may wish to contact Mactron Directly , a young lady (Gelly Dung) has been most helpful and will quote you for exactly the kit I had (just mention Russ Sadler) her email is [e-mail] Good luck and best wishes Russ

[@alexventuree8100]

Hello sr, Where bought the big air pump..?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Gabriel This is the pump that I bought www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAILEA-ACO-009E-140-LTR-PISTON-AIR-PUMP-KOI-FISH-POND-COMPRESSOR-HYDROPONICS/401346368878?epid=1289105521&hash=item5d721b956e:g:rCIAAOxyEoFSWVmR After lots more testing and experiments, I must inform you that there is little advantage in choosing a bigger pump. Even the pump supplied (70l/mim) is being overworked because you cannot get 70 l/min through your pipework ( or nozzle if it has a 2.5mm hole. ) The maximum pressure the pump can deliver is about 0.3bar and that will be at zero flow It is more important to manage the airflow from your nozzle so that it is a steady laminar flow stream that gets the maximum amount of air into your cut. Too much pressure and the air will expand as soon as it exits the nozzle, it will spread out rapidly and very little will find it's way into the cut. It's quite a delicate balance. You need efficient air flow into your CUTS but almost no airflow for your SCANS. If your existing pump works (even the pulsing is ok) I would not waste money upgrading. Control of what you have is more important. Best wishes Russ

[@SofaKingTouge]

HEY Russ, So I finally figured out how to make my laser engraver works and do what I want. Today I was finishing up my templates in acrylic. I was doing one final test and I wanted to hurry things along and set it at 65%. Never set it that high and it stopped working within 2 minutes. You mentioned Mactron. Just email them? Thanks. You videos are very useful but this is still a royal pain in the rear. LOL

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Let me guess. Your machine is fitted with a laser tube marked KH Laser? Yes, just email Gelly Dung at Mactron [e-mail]. If you wanrt the same 60watt upgrade that I did, then just mention you want the same kit she supplied to Russ Sadler Good luck Russ

[@SofaKingTouge]

SarbarMultimedia Yeah I mentioned the laser engraver I got to you on another video. It's supposed to be 80watt. Do I need to upgrade the power supply as well? Or do I just need the tube? www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Kits-Of-1pcs-80W-Long-Lifetime-Laser-Tube-1-pcs-80W-Laser-Power-Supply-Warranty-6/1086226_32224656406.html

[@SofaKingTouge]

But man just a month. I was just figuring it all out and ready to start introducing my first product.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi The power supply and the tube are usually matched because its all to do with the voltage required to trigger the tube. The longer the tube usually the higher the trigger voltage. If you are replacing an 80mm diameter 1200mm long tube with this Mactron tube, you might be OK . But if it was an E bay machine then from all my correspondents with failed systems, about 30% are power supply failures. The PSUs seem to be made of very cheap components that are held together with hope and fairy dust. The power supply is the cheapest part so I would not risk a good tube with a flakey PSU. Next time when you need to replace the tube you will not need the PSU. Good luck Best regards Russ

[@SofaKingTouge]

SarbarMultimedia OK, Thanks. Just want it to work and not have issues going forward. We were so close to launching our first product. In a way I guess it's good this happened before hand. We have a good following and if it broke with 100 orders that would be really bad.

[@leop9021]

When you say that you paid 200 pounds for the tubeand power supply from China i assume you are speaking of the second tup you purchased. Is that correct? How much was the 60 watt quality tube that you ordered?

[@RPalmieri]

Very nice video, going to watch all to kill the time waiting for mine

[@arcadeuk]

Fantastic video series so far. Keep up the good work!

[@joeblogs4146]

I've just got a k40 40 watt co2 laser engraver/cutter ,anyway my problems because of being educated with these brilliant videos i would like to know is what is the maximum % of power I should use to get the maximum life and performance out of the "so called" 40watt tube? I'm going to fit ammeter but as for now it's currently got a digital display. I've had it for 3weeks and I haven't even used it because I don't want to overload the tube as I certainty can't afford to be paying £100+ every 4 - 5 months, any advice would be really appreciated. Oh! Brilliant video keep them coming as many newcomers would be in sh*t street without them. And those who disliked must all be dyslexic and was trying to say Dis - I - like ! 😁

[@SarbarMultimedia]

A 40 watt tube will be 800mm long and will not fit into your case. Normally take 200mm off the case width and that tells me the tube is 600mm long and 50mm diameter. That makes it a 30 watt tube IF it is an A grade tube, Sadly the Chinese max out profits by fitting B grade reject tubes to these Ebay machines so you may only have 20 watts at the 16mA max that you should be running a 30 watt tube at. There are some simple check to carry out when you have your ammeter fitted . Send me your disguised email address in another comment and we can speak later when you test your machine. Best wishes Russ

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@joeblogs4146 Hi You don't need to encrypt it, just spell your email in one word like this joedotblogsatyahoodotcom. That way, bots that look for email addresses to collect and sell will nor spot it. I will also delete it as soon as it arrives in another comment. Yep, as anticipated, its a 30 watt 600 long tube and very B grade. The writing on the label is to give you confidence that it has been tested but it tells me exactly the opposite.. The "updated" bit of the advertising is just another ruse to make you feel you are getting more for your money. The design and software has been the same for years as has been the fact that they fit B grade reject tubes that they collect from the original tube manufacturer for peanuts (or less). The SH signifies.your machine was built in the Shenhui factory (so was my China blue machine and that was fitted with a crap tube also). Do you have any small pieces of acrylic? If so, how thick? we need to test what shape the light intensity is within your beam before I can even begin to judge if you have any useful power. That's why we need to communicate by email. You can.t send pictures via You tube. If the K40 is fitted with a proper quality tube , it will do what you are looking for. I have seen some nice pictures done on K40s. Best wishes Russ

[@pir869]

hi, i would love to own a CO2 laser ,the bed size is a little restrictive for me though,could you tell me the running voltage of the laser,i take it the voltage stays "as is" when altering the power,being a current controlled device, a crow bar current clamp could be inline with the current meter,and dialed down to a low setting,then set the machine to 100%,after which the crowbar current clamp can be adjusted to get the safe max current for the tube used,so when the machine is set to 100% it will be the now pre-set safe 100%. Was the delivered unit in good condition ie setup for cutting ,miss alignment of mirrors etc. Do you think the original co2 laser would have had a longer life if it had current limiting or was it just crap from the start. Do you know what type of power supply is fitted,ie transformer,switched mode etc. Who supplied the 70watt laser,after market or from where you bought it. Im either going for a co2 or a diode laser,my needs are for wood etching ,pcb making and etching brass,i dont know if either co2 or diode will actually cut copper or brass,brass being an alloy of tin,zinc and copper,but surely both lasers will vaporize an etch resist from the surface of the metal to leave a clean substrate behind to etch,which is the point i can get mixed results from my present methods.and why a laser could transform my whole production accuracy,wastage,volume throughput. Available diode laser beds suit my needs better and are'nt to dear,and about the 5.5watt range,heat is always a problem ,and im looking at making a water cooled diode heat sink if i do get a solid state laser. If you would like more info on a current clamp let me know the details i mention and i'll see what i can pass on to you.Though you seen educated or smart enough to sort that out,but bend my ear if you wish. cheers.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi John I apologize for the tardy reply. I somehow missed your comment. The laser tube operates on two voltages a strike voltage and a running voltage Both depend on the length (the power) of the tube. Typical 50 to 80 watt tubes strike at between 23000 and 28000volts dc. When the beam is fully established (about 12 to 14% power)the voltage drops to about17000 volts dc. Once the nitrogen has ionized it becomes a very low resistance conductor and the current flow through it need to be controlled by the power supply. The signal for that control comes from the controller where the % power you request is translated into a current demand. usually in the range of 2 to 30mA. Generally the tube will not work below about 8% power and if you go much above 60% you run the danger of exceeding the safe running current for the tube.. Limits for these values can be set using RDWorks.There is no problem working with 60 % as your top limit and say 10% as your bottom limit. That's a range of 50%. The power can be selected to 0.1% so that's 500 divisions. of power graduation available. The power characteristic is not linear I, as with most people, was able to use my machine right out of the box. It did need setting for better performance but it worked. All ebay machines are fitted with crap reject tubes from big manufacturers. There's an organization that does not exist called KH Laser, they collect and tests these rejects, to make sure they function "in some way. The" re-label them and get them fitted to just ebay machines . Ebay buyer are usually naive, do not have any knowledge of the technology, have no means of monitoring tube current and do not have an expensive power meter on hand to check their purchase. The perfect scam. Yes My first tube was like that, absolute rubbish. I replaced it with this wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/1pcs-60w-CO2-Laser-Tube-and_60064355769.html You cannot cut copper or brass with this technology because to 10.6 micron wavelength light, copper (with almost any crap surface) acts like a mirror because of its crystal structure. You cannot heat it to melt it even with a powerful CO2 laser. You can vaporize a surface mask and there are several you tube videos of guys doing it. Hope some of this is helpful Best regards Russ

[@pir869]

thanks, very helpfull indeed,i used to use photo develop techniques for pcb,but light under cut was a problem,screen printing a suitable resist is a long winded nightmare of constant re-do to the screen,one method which works very well is the laser printer toner heat transfer,but i also have wind od using a UV laser to develop mask with great precision,though burning off a mask with a visible wave length laser,which can be used on leather,wood is fine. If the price of the metal encased CO2 lasers comes down a bit i'd fancy that,i've got the cnc bug so a 3 axis mill with laser attachment can be realised by arduino and raspberry pi,though i hated programming computers in college some 27yrs ago,it was 6502 assembly for BBC micros and acorns,which were outdated then!!!,the new pc assembly is easier to do,and with the internet,well,you cant help but learn,if a 12yr old can ,so can i. Enjoy your lazing,not that retirement is that. Be well,and regards. John h.

[@ricardomierz8467]

So a Chinese proverb say... if you want a 50w cutter you buy a 60w machine... Judging by the prices on ebay the bigger machine is a better deal than this puppy with a bigger bed, bigger tube, extraction fan, etc. some even come with a rotary device!

[@zengyuchen]

Considering the quality, you can buy it from amazon.

[@stugauju]

how should i insert mA scale in to my machine?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Have you watched kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnW9nqiuppp1e68 If you are still unsure just write again. Best wishes Russ