Scarpa Instinct VS: In Depth Climbing Shoe Review

[@ManitheMonkey]

Let me know what you think and leave a like (thanks, appreciated :) here are the chapters: Appearance and Features: 0:40 Performance: 17:00 Conclusion: 21:40 Links to the shoe in case you want to check it out online: amzn.to/3iu6Ueq (US) amzn.to/38q6Jfs (GER) Don't forget to tune in to tomorrow Sunday's Live Stream at around 9pm GMT+2 , see you there and stay strong!

[@andrewlan1799]

Mani! Since 5.10 discontinued their teams.. Ive heard that old employees have created “unparalleled sports” or something. Do you know if they revived the Teams? I get the sense that they are your favorite so you might know something about this!

[@Nick-qy9hv]

This is extremely helpful. The side by side comparisons are great and the extensive detail is amazing.

[@nicdes5540]

These are the best shoes I've had so far ! I'm buying a second identical pair I like them so much. They are perfect for standing on super small footholds on slab/face and feel a lot more confidence inspiring then a lot of the other shoes I've owned.

[@deez_gainz]

Toe hooks are actually sticking real hard on those, really would recommend

[@stuartjohnson7930]

Get yourself some mad rock drones, I gave them a chance after seeing all the eric karlson crew running them. Hands down best shoe I have worn to date, also would love to see a review on what you think of that shoe.

[@SpaceTvRadio1]

Madrock slaps

[@suki355]

coming from miura vs, these felt like slippers. fit was perfect and heel didnt move. didnt need any break in period. LOVE the instinct vs!!

[@wyetti]

How did you size compared to the miura?

[@VDB420]

My fav shoe, had it resoled 4 times already still going strong :)

[@Benkkuful]

I just bought a pair 5 months ago and it quickly became my favourite shoe.

[@jacobpenner1923]

Mine too, 3 resoles in

[@usprodrigo]

Same here, 6 years, 4 resoles and going to 5th! Absolutely favorite climbing shoe ever!

[@Pepperman86]

Any of you had the skwamas? I am waiting for the instinct to arrive but I am so addicted with the skwamas

[@dannym8015]

Thanks Mani, as always a great review! It would be useful if you could take an outline of your foot (i.e. stand on a piece of paper and draw around it) and add the measurements. I here a lot of people say 'I have a wide foot' or 'I have a narrow foot' but compared to what? So some actual measurements would be very illustrative. Cheers!

[@stevey6294]

I double that. Also don't get the narrow/wide foot terms

[@eSKAone-]

Damn, thanks for the toe box comparison between Instinct and Drago! 🌌💟

[@VDB420]

On smearing: I do prefer the drago's, especially on modern gym climbs, because of the friction on the XS grip rubber :) toe hooking on the Instincs is significantly better though because of the grooves on the top

[@the.Aruarian]

I just bought a pair of VSRs last week, and they seem like a really good compliment to the VS. The rubber on top and below the toe are both softer, but heel and toehooking performance is the same. Might be worth checking out. Or what a lot of people do: resole the VS's with Grip 2 and get the proto-VSR. :D How is the toe-comfort on the Drago? The break-in of the Instincts is murder on my toe knuckles, and the design/rubber compound on the Drago (and Furia's) seem like it'd be less dire.

[@alpinekiwi]

My favorite shoe so far for sure. I was originally thinking to resole it with the XS Grip, but I’m really digging the Edge rubber in most conditions.

[@RedBulZ]

Get the Instinct VSR then. They come with XS Grip 2

[@cyberfunk9494]

Just purchased ones. It's my first pair of high performance shoes. And a first pair made of synthetic materials. It's 2 sizes down from my street shoes size and after one climbing training it seems a bit too tight. I hope it'll stretch half a size and get perfect.👍

[@timh694]

I love my Instinct VS its great for vert and slight overhangs, resoled it with XS grip rubber, I only weigh 60 Kg and the grip rubber is a bit stickier and wears the same for me as the edge did, this was my 2nd shoe after my Helix and also the shoe I used for my first 5.12, its comfy enough to use every day and train in due to the great durability. I will prob buy a VSR once my VS starts to fall apart as the heal is a bit too loose for my liking. If you can handle it it may actually be a good beginner shoe as well.

[@badsn]

Funny. I went the opposite way around (weighing about 75 kg) I resoled my VSR with XS Edge. Now it's the best shoe I ever had with 13 years of climbing shoe experience. I just like the blue color better. I guess I will keep buying VSRs for bouldering and once there done resole them and have them ready for sports climbing :)

[@larryseibold4287]

@@badsn weight and temperature play a big part in the optimum rubber choice. I think it would be good to have one pair with XS Edge for normal and hotter conditions and one with Grip II for cold conditions (outside or in) and perhaps use the grip II for steeper gym climbs and the edge for less steep.

[@HelplmAlive]

I have the VSR for general bouldering and Drago for hard bouldering sends. Just started sport climbing and got a pair of the new version of Vapor V. Seems to be doing everything I've asked of them so far. Also use the Vapor V for small edging climbs.

[@AlmostAmbitious]

Great review. Thank you

[@matejv2840]

hey Mani, long time fan from Slovakia. You mentioned you have slimmer feet. I just bought Instinct VS. Heel and toes fit good, but it isn't very tight on top of the forefoot. Perhaps because my big toe is quite curled and is vertically higher than the rest of the forefoot. Is it going to adjust once I break the shoes in? Your shoes have more horizontal toebox than how it comes out of the box (more round).

[@ManitheMonkey]

hm, all I can say is it's a lot of synthetics, so it's not gonna change that much generally. Mine still feel very much like they came out the box initially.

[@matejv2840]

@@ManitheMonkey thanks I think I'm keeping them. PS: If you're still looking for the teams I found a place that still has them..

[@sevs802]

I climbed only in Sportiva for like 15 years, but tried these on and bought them some time ago. I’ve resoled once and they are now my favorite shoe for bouldering. Very comfortable, good edging, sensitive on the toe, and really good toe hooking. Good all around shoe in my opinion. I didn’t think I would like them as much as futuras because I got used to a very sensitive toe, but they definitely deliver.

[@jayrezvani3821]

Which Sportivas did you climb in? I'm currently considering these as a replacement for my Miura VS that I've had for years. I like them but want something more sensitive without going all the way into "soft" shoe territory; I get the sense that the Instinct VS is kind of halfway between the Miura and the Solution?

[@VastkustSvamp]

”with something like the DRrAAAGO” haha i love your accent! Where you from? And great review! Im standing between choosing the Veloce or VS. Think you convinced me^^

[@vorlostzurab7653]

With abt 60kg i got the VS without knowing the VSR exists, im probably going to buy the VSR next because I need a bit softer shoes...

[@menph9987]

Those katana and vapor are so consumed!! Definitely needs new soles and points. What do you think about the ability of instinct and vapor to smear? I mostly climb slabs or vertical / slight overhanging routes, and I'm looking for the best balance between precise edging, sensitive smearing and comfortable fit.

[@spinlouton9538]

Thanks Mani!

[@alexanderlucabaron]

Great Video. Thanks!

[@AusVersehen]

Actually on the website of Scarpa the Instinct VS is listed as the least durable shoe in their line-up. Which pretty much matches my experience with them. In contrast to what you said in the video the thickness of the sole is actually only 3mm and not 4mm. That makes it more sensible in spite of the stiffness. But you'll work through the sole quite quickly. You are right, you wont cut through it with a sharp edge on accident. But after a comparatively short time of high volume you will definitely have worn it out. At least that is my experience.

[@ATXrollerblader]

I wound up switching from these to Evolv Shamans which have worked out way better for me. Even on toe hooks. Different strokes I guess. 🤷‍♂️ The Instincs do looks really nice though and evidently work great for most ppl.

[@Indictedheart]

Anyone Tried this Shoe and the OCUN HAVOC, Ocun Bullit, & OCun Ozone(2022) edition. I read they were similar but the OCUN had a wider TOEBOX, and medium Volume, which is what I think I need. With my Scarpa VS, there is a slight Air Gap in the Heal after wearing it for 2 weeks 1HR every day sometimes up to 4HRs. The Scarpa Instinct VS gap in heal has become a lot less. I am not climbing in them yet because I am worried that a slight gap in the heal will keep my Greek wide forefoot from easing off the front of Scarpa. Does anyone have any advice? For someone with odd feet like me. I wear a size 49 in the Scarpa Instinct VS but a size 14 in the New 5.10 Moccasym, and a size 12.5 in the Taratulace. I need a medium volume shoe, with a wide toe box, & super comfort for gym climbing, Something that allows be level up to above the middle level at the gym. I am climbing for my health, not to be competitive. But I want the most comfortable shoe. I think I may need to own a few pairs to have the right shoe for the job. BUt the Scarpa is so expensive I don't want to wreck it at the gym, & not be able to return it. I disagree about the tongue finger pull I feel the yellow material is sewn on weak and can be easily ripped. But I haven't tested it.

[@atti1120]

I got the vsr's I only went down half a size from street shoe 42,5 to 42. Plenty painful on my toes 😂

[@kylernorr9242]

Would you size up to 42.5’s instead or keep 42?

[@atti1120]

@@kylernorr9242 these days I'm using 5.10 hi angle at same size. One Important thing to note is that IS NEVER MENTIONED, is that people also have different shoe sizing on their regular shoes so someone have them WAY BIGGER / looser / more room in toes, so the same advice with sizing doesn't apply, just do your own experimenting

[@Drinkyoghurt]

I have wide feet but scarpa shoes just don't fit me at all. Best shoe is the Mad Rock shark 2.0 and the Boreal Satori for me. If the Skwama had a better heel I'd go for that.

[@yoann8206]

Agreed, heel is horrible in scarpa instinct. Rubber sucks and heel too wide..

[@rhyhl]

Unparallel TN Pros or the new 5.10 hiangles comp I'm finding comfy for wider feet if you want to check them out. My only issue with the TNpros is they are also high volume, my feet are wide but theres some slight space on the vertical axis. I love the skwama fit but yeh the heel is like good and bad also I'm not a big fan of xs grip 2 for indoor bouldering.

[@Sleepysparkz]

Which model/year are your Vapors in this vid? I currently wear a 42 in the Vapor Vs (2015 model) and was going to buy the Instinct VS in a 42. Do you think I should go for the half size up like you do?

[@hyau23]

For (wide feet) how do you size this compared to street shoe size?

[@kinjkio]

What material is the inside of the shoe?

[@dota-replays]

How do you think they fare against the miura laces for vertical/slightly overhanging routes?

[@hyau23]

In terms of outdoors, does the VS excel at anything compared to the VSR? I'm going to albarracin in October but unsure if I should purchase the VS or VSR

[@johannessporer]

The only difference is the rubber. Softer Vibram XS Grip 2 for VSR and harder XS Edge for VS. So the VS is better at edging and more durable but the VSR is more sticky and better for smears.

[@slangingiron4016]

Can you climb in a gym with these?

[@Indictedheart]

The stripe on heal box isn't that the heal Rand?

[@theopinson3851]

I never quite got this shoe. Fairly aggressive fit/downturn but with very stiff rubber. I found it too insensitive and slick for steep climbing but too uncomfortable for vertical/slab. I think it’s also a poor fit for my foot...the point seemed like it was in the wrong place.

[@earlgrey2130]

My shoes. Love them 😊

[@erickqueiro]

Five tem teams OR Scarpa VS OR la sportiva solution OR Tenaya (oasi/iati)?

[@acyrlocatelli5319]

How would rate it compared the Instinct VSR? Thanks for the review btw

[@VDB420]

The VSR is essentially the same shoe but with XS grip rubber, so softer and more suited to modern indoor bouldering.

[@Muqrii]

VDB its XS-Grip2 mate

[@the.Aruarian]

@@VDB420 The toe-rubber and midsole also seem to be softer than the normal VSs, and the toebox seems to be ever so slightly lower volume (though this might be due to individual differences from being hand-made), but they fit basically the same.

[@readyaimsflyer4226]

I'm still trying to decide between the VS, the VSR and the Five Ten Anasazi.

[@matthewbrown9610]

Definitely go with the vsr. I have worn a pair for about a year and they are awesome. They are relatively soft to smear with but are still stiff enough to edge on small footholds

[@readyaimsflyer4226]

@@matthewbrown9610 yeah I ended up buying a pair of the VSR last week. Still breaking them in but good so far.

[@neggan]

I don't understand how you are able to downsize so much. I got a pair 41,5 and I feel agony when putting them on. I wear 42 street shoes 😅

[@florianunterfrauner2041]

What do you say about the scarpa instinct vsr?

[@SileDevil]

does it make you that miura blister on the big toes?

[@user-eb9uj8zi6i]

is the shoe good on slab?

[@Foby2]

Recently bought a pair of EU40 VS-R (EU41 Street) and they are near impossible for me to climb in. Toes are constantly crimped to the point where I can barely stand upright in them due to discomfort, yet you wear 39.5 as a 42 street. Are they super uncomfortable when you wear them to climb or have I just got fat feet? I've got another pair of VS-R size 41 coming so hopefully they're better. Love how sticky these shoes are though!

[@jessestruyvelt7593]

Scarpa and the designer of the shoe (Heinz) recommends only to downside max 0.5 to 1.5 sizes. These arent designed to be downsized rediculously. I wear my street shoe size in them and I have no spots open. Toes are curled up and very aggressive. Love them. Already on my 4th pair and all of them already got a resole.

[@Shinror]

Love this shoe

[@liamoneill1225]

i like the fly in the beginning of the vidioe

[@kimmccaskill4811]

What do you think about Dragos resoled with XS Edge?

[@ManitheMonkey]

will try it, that's why I'm not climbing the dragos atm, so that they will be nicer to resole

[@kimmccaskill4811]

Mani the Monkey I plan on resoling mine soon so I think I’ll try this combo!

[@jonnes__4657]

🐱‍👤 Interesting, why are the sizes you use so different? I thought there is a standardizing by sizes ?? Is it because of different pretensioning and different materials (lether or pure synthetics)? It seems to be, that the 5.10 is okay (for masochists), the Sportiva and Tenaya (for me one size down to street shoes is okay) is much larger and the Scarpa is in between. .

[@KirstenRietveld]

Sizing can differ wildly between different brands. The stiffness of the shoe also makes a difference, and of course the difficulty of your climbs. The more difficult your climbs the more aggressive you want do size down since you don't need really tight shoes for easier routes. It would be a lot easier if all brands and models used the same sizing but that's sadly not the case.

[@jonnes__4657]

@@KirstenRietveld Good for the Shoe-Sellers. It's not so easy to buy online.

[@solonthorberg]

I use scarpa vs because I have a wide feet but the only I don't like is that the heel is a little to big. I need another shoe that is wide and has a small heel box!

[@theboxman--4538]

You might want to consider the La Sportiva Skwamas- they have quite a wide toe box, but the heel still fits real nice and snug. I have the same issue with the Scarpa VS, but the skwama fits great.

[@NoShameTonight]

I have the same problem: Wide feet, narrow heel. Can recommend the scarpa vapor vs

[@cymcintosh4417]

Peep the evolv Argo

[@Ascentyon]

What the hell!? I have 42.5 street shoe size and I have size 41 La Sportiva Miura VS and Solutions. I tried 40.5 but they were killing me. I wonder how you wear 38.5 - 39 La Sportiva shoes.... Then again, I have a pretty wide feet (I think). The 40.5 were pushing my smaller fingers like crazy.

[@ljp3639]

It depends on the shoe, both Mira and Solution are quite stiff, a drago or a theory is much softer and tolerate much more downsizing.

[@hyau23]

Sportiva strangely have smaller sizes compared to other shoe brands. Scarpa shoes I'm eu 41but LS I'm a 39 and my street shoe size is 42

[@dannym8015]

I think there are various considerations with this. Do some people wear street shoes bigger than other people- i.e do 2 people with exactly the same foot wear 2 different sizes? Also I've found I've become progressively more tolerant of smaller climbing shoes over several years of climbing, not sure whether my feet are getting smaller, if I've blunted some of the pain inducing nerves, got more used to the discomfort or something else... But I do know that my feet were in agony the first few weeks of climbing after the lockdown ended, having not worn climbing shoes for a couple of months...

[@yuteyang6811]

I have wide feet and my street shoe is 45, and my skwama is 40.5. However solution is narrower than skwama .

[@basti1597]

Your fingers? I suspect you are supposed to put them on your feet

[@georgebaldwin5456]

It really s*cks that Scarpa doesn't make these above 45 in size; which rules me out.

[@yuteyang6811]

I have flat & wide feet, and scarpa instinct is the best to my feet. 45 on street, 42 on instinct with performance fit.

[@logankuzyk]

How much did they hurt at first? I'm pretty sure mine will break in nicely, they're brand new right now.

[@yuteyang6811]

@@logankuzyk a little bit pain for first session, after that is comfy enough for 5-10 mins routes. However, after climbing with it for a year, I found out that the heel cup is too baggy for me to do some extreme heel hooking. I guess it's due to my narrow heel, it happened on other scapar shoes as well.

[@lucaa4480]

@@yuteyang6811 is it normal that the first times it will be very difficoult to put the foot in the shoe? i just buy one pair but i hope that they will get bigger after some climbing because now they hurt a lot 😅

[@JDC1995]

You should start a shoestore, with the right advice you can make $$$!~You're knowledgeble,

[@J_punkt_O_punkt]

i really like the instinct series. i've got the orange vs in a performance size and it's a great shoe for steeper routeclimbing. i've got the lace half a size bigger as my universal sport climbing shoe. it's really great for small edges, but a bit stiffer. and for most bouldering i've got the blue VSR. i'm a big fan of the Grip2 rubber, i really think it performs well. while the shoe is too soft to stand on really small edges, it's good enough for most things and really comfortable for long indoor sessions or circuits in bleau. only on hard and very overhung bouldering i turn to the drago and for vertial routes with mini edges to a very downsized vapor vs.

[@dieterwassner3598]

what is your take on no edge?

[@zandervdw3542]

Iam uk 8 and went down to uk 5

[@scherry2900]

At the moment i use the vsr. But i will resole them with xs edge. I don't like the grip 2. So smeary. Even on volumes i trust the edge rubber more. Personal preference i think.

[@JL-tj9hi]

that shoe needs to be resoled asap

[@simonblurton8009]

This shoe isn't vegan.