Scarpa Vapour S: Truly Special?

[@climb.boulder.mountain]

Great review, thank you. My biggest worry about trying them was that I didn't get on at all with the latest Vapour V (despite using previous iterations of that shoe for years) so glad you compared. Been in need of a replacement all-round/all-day shoe for a while. Your UKC KZbin content is getting better and better btw, great stuff.

[@philipppuchner1115]

Excactly the same for me concerning the newest vapor V. Still climbing the first vapor V with XS Grip 2 Rubber for Sportclimbing outdoors. The Vapor S are much better than the Vapor V! I tried them on at home, stepped around, ... multiple days i tried this shoe at home a bit. I honestly never climbed in them, since i got too many climbing shoes, but I can pretty comfortably say, that they should feel better than the Vapor V and that I second this review :)

[@ukclimbingofficial]

The Vapour V was such a disappointment, whereas these were the exact opposite - everything I’d hoped for (and more)!!

[@alexlin8328]

la sportiva has had removeable straps for decades... you just gotta pay a resoler to put them back on afterwards.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I’m not sure that’s entirely economical though 😅

[@zacharylaschober]

what is baffling is on my Furia Airs the yellow material has been degrading for a while with this same strap closure... but the material has not worn through the actual structural backing. Uncertain why La Sportiva has not solved this since the inception of the Solution... fifteen years ago or more? Every Solution and Futurua I had owned had the webbing break after a couple months of heavy usage, and resolers would simply replace with a burlier strap which would wear but nowhere near as fast. At some point, I actually ripped the stitches from the nylon strap, punched holes in the leather at the base, and did actually thread half a shoe lace through to create this same manner of nanostrap. Making this hard to replace is bizarre, and such a failure point, too.

[@seanbrady9978]

Ive had this shoe for a month now. I completely agree with this review and it gives some great insights. I'd like to add that these things are small crack machines and are so good they're almost aid. They absolutely excel in small cracks, and were fantastic in Indian Creek finger cracks.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Great to hear you're making use of that toe rubber!

[@Equastrian_kk]

any recommendations about the sizing? should be downsized to the normal street size? I have NIAD vcs same as street size (UK 8) @UKClimbing

[@wayneoxborough351]

Timely to see this, especially the comparison with the Instinct S as I wondered how they compared (I have the instinct)

[@simon.rabatin]

Good review. Unfortunately, the String / Nano-Strap ripped off on the outside of my shoe after only 3 months of moderate use. Massive disappointment because I was relying on it for a good fit. Let's see if there is any repair option by Scarpa or from the local workshop.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

That is a shame. Scarpa do repairs in house, so I’m sure it’ll be fixable, although it’s still annoying that it needs to be fixed. In their defence, their build quality is usually sky high, so hopefully it’s just an anomaly 🤞

[@brycedahlgren5015]

If you want another slipper to review I'd love to hear your thoughts on the UP Duel. I've never tried them but to me they seem like a good replacement for the original 5.10 Mocc.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Interesting, thanks! We'll try and get hold of a pair. Rob reviewed these a few weeks ago: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3SVoHqDoN9lhsU

[@joshdeane3556]

Late to the party but I’m looking for a more supportive shoe for high volume grit sessions. My other shoes (veloce & drago) are v soft which I love as it gives me confidence on grit but they put a lot of pressure on the big toe. I’m eyeing these might up as an option which will be more supportive but also provide confidence on those grit problems. Was looking at these or Instinct VS or VSR. Any advice would be appreciated, especially for anyone who has used the Vapour S!!!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Tough choice!! It’d realistically boil down to either the Vapour S or the Instinct VSR. The Instinct VS are great, but the XS Edge rubber is a bit firmer and you’d be better off with CS Grip for Grit - which is what’s featured on the other two. In terms of which of those to go for, it’s really hard to say. My first recommendation would simply be to try both on, then buy whichever you like best. Performance-wise the Instinct has the edge on the Vapour, and a bit more support too, although it’s blended really well with sensitivity. That said, I’ve been continually amazed at how the Vapour S has performed and how much fun it is to climb in. If you’ve been watching the latest series of destination guides we’ve been doing then that’s what I’ve been wearing 99% of the time.

[@mesahusa]

I love my instinct S and wear them on everything, to the point where it's been hard for me to pick up another shoe and I now have majorly bruised toenails. The Vapor S sounds like it would be a great shoe for the 50% of the time I'm not bouldering at my limit and giving my toes a break. Does sizing translate equally between the Vapor S and the Instinct S? I'm thinking of getting these in 0.5 size up from my instincts.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Go for the same size, that’s what I’ve got. The Vapour feel a bit bigger due to the more generous fit/last, so there’s no need to go up half a size. Funnily enough I’ve just packed mine for a day of climbing and suspect I’ll use the Vapour throughout the majority of the day, then the Instinct for a select few problems. It’s a great combo for that. Both such great shoes.

[@lukian2619]

At this point I'm stalking you from video to video, I would like to know more about the sizing between the two slippers and in their respective family. Great review by the way.

[@galaxyguy4522]

How did you size them? You said you sized down one size for the instinct s. So half a size down?

[@thesii213]

Excellent review! Though a couple questions - how did you size it relative to street? And is the heel as wide as some other recent Scarpa offerings (looking at you weird baggy Veloce/Quantic heels)? Thanks again! Edit: Also small point re: the written review, but I think it's still XS Edge and not Edge 2 on the Vapor V? To my knowledge Edge 2 does not exist yet.

[@seanbrady9978]

I wear my street shoe size in them. Scarpa tends to "just fit" between street and climbing sizes from my experience, which is like 12 pair of their shoes. I don't feel like they have a wide heel cup. Mine fit me snug.

[@thesii213]

@@seanbrady9978 Glad to hear about the heel! I'll probably give these a go then thanks!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

The heel isn’t particularly wide. If anything, I’d actually say it’s on the narrower. Perfect size/volume for a nice, snug fit. The danger of an overly wide heel on a slipper is that they always slip off! Size wise I thought I’d covered this in the review, but apparently not; however, I’m away at the moment and can’t quite remember. I’ll message back once I’m home again - sorry!

[@thesii213]

@@ukclimbingofficial Sorry - any idea on the sizing on these?

[@Scudhs]

How does this fare for folks with Egyptian style feet? Thanks!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It’s designed with that toe profile in mind 👍

[@adametes]

How about sizing?

[@dawyr]

Hey, have you reviewed the Scarpa Chimera?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I haven’t actually. In fact, it’s one of the few shoes by Scarpa I haven’t reviewed in recent years!! May have to remedy that at some point…

[@dawyr]

@@ukclimbingofficial thanks for the reply 👊🏻 I will look out for your review. Have a great day!

[@nailniall]

Funnily enough I tried them on this morning. My second toe is longer than my big toe and feels like the shape of the toe box doesn’t quite fit the shape of my foot. Did feel like a great slipper though.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It’s tricky isn’t it. They could be the best shoe in the world but if they don’t fit you - they’re not going to be the best for you.

[@Drayser1234]

How do they compare to Instinct S in term of sizing?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I’ve sized them the same, but they fit quite differently, with the Vapour S being a bit wider and roomier than the Instinct S. There’s a fair few other differences, but in terms of sizing - start the same, then maybe go down a half size if you’re after a more technical/performance oriented fit.

[@schonni8390]

*vapor

[@ukclimbingofficial]

*Vapour: www.scarpa.co.uk/climbing-shoes/vapour-s/

[@schonni8390]

@@ukclimbingofficial my comment with the link to the german scarpa website doesn't show for some reason. Anyways, I've discovered that in German areas they spell them as vapour. Sorry for the confusion