Antique Gurkha Knife Kukri (Khukuri) Cleaning / Restoration

In 2003 the Atlanta Cutlery Corp procured a large collection of original 19th century Gurkha kukri / khukuri from the Nepalese Government military stores. Here I look at cleaning two examples.
Atlanta Cutlery Corp: bit.ly/3j0bIII
Longleaf kukri: bit.ly/30b3dBQ
Bhojpure kukri: bit.ly/2WiC13b
Support & extra content on Patreon: / scholagladiatoria
Support & extra content on Subscribestar: www.subscribes...
Facebook & Twitter updates, info and fun:
/ historicalfencing
/ scholagladiato1
Schola Gladiatoria HEMA - sword fighting classes in the UK:
www.swordfight...
Matt Easton's website and services:
www.matt-easto...
Easton Antique Arms:
www.antique-sw...

[@TheSmilingLord]

I'd like to see more like this, you talk about sharpening swords, etc. May as well show us the whole process.

[@maximilianolimamoreira5002]

context is king,especially when we are talking about Matt Easton.😄

[@Zero.Limit007]

it's so rare to find out this kind of curve in today's khukuri, this is genuine khukuri

[@patrickomaracou7268]

I`ve got an Army issue kukri dated 1917 in perfect condition in leather scabbard ,also in perfect condition .Also have Nepalise Village Kukuri which I used up the bush ,very sharp and good knife for every day use.

[@joeconrad3828]

There’s not much arsenal grease on those, but a word of warning about cleaning in the sink. That grease that you melt and scrub off will stick and harden in the pipes and eventually clog them very thoroughly. I like to pour kettles of hot water over caked up rifles in the grass in the backyard, instead.

[@ronalddunne3413]

A few gallons of boiling water down the sinks every month or two cleans the grease out of the pipes. So I have learned from the plumber who came to open our kitchen pipes... Ive touched mine up with some very very soft and fine steel wool, highlights the metal and softens the dark spots. Not a "polish", mind you, and very very soft steel wool.

[@LuxFerre4242]

If Covid hadn't cleared out my savings, I would have bought one of these. They look great.

[@earthman4222]

I cleaned an old "cowboy" knife with tons of wear and moderate rust. I did not want to change the character of the knife, just to make it presentable. I scraped the blade with a pure copper coin (no zinc). It worked great. The rust came off, leaving pitting and patina. This is what I wanted, to preserve the current state. The copper did not scratch the steel. I did not want to buff or polish the steel and lose the patina.

[@Echowhiskeyone]

Pre-1982 US cents are great to 'polish' rust of knives, swords and firearms. Post-1982 pennies are a zinc slug with a very thin copper cladding, copper rubs of and zinc an damage the item.

[@earthman4222]

@@Echowhiskeyone You are exactly right. That is why I mentioned "no zinc".

[@Echowhiskeyone]

@@earthman4222 I collect coins. And knives, swords, tools and firearms. So the metal content is a great interest of mine.

[@vortigern7021]

I went to a pub with a mate earlier today, he was wearing a superdry jumper and the first thing I thought was you.

[@scholagladiatoria]

Superdry are sponsored by me.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

@@scholagladiatoria Nice to hear that you helping out small businesses......

[@edv2465]

I know that in British English a jumper is a sweater (or sweatshirt) and not a little girl's dress, but it still gave me a moment...

[@pmel018]

The adhesive used to secure the grips, called laha, requires about 20 minutes in boiling water to become liquid, hot tap water wont touch it. This has a useful side effect, if the grip becomes loose a bath in boiling water will remelt the laha and, when it cools, secure the grip. You wrap the grip in cling film before putting in boiling water.

[@joejones9520]

are there pins and/or is the tang peened at pommel in addition to the adhesive? Surely it's not just adhesive holding it on is it? Ive never seen one in real life.

[@jonc4050]

As with antique firearms, blades shouldn't be overly restored. Just back to a usable state. Too much can take away from any monetary value and historical value. Both of those are beautiful pieces, little bit jealous.

[@cammobunker]

One note about cleaning these: I note you are wearing gloves. That's an excellent idea. Nobody really knows what is in that grease/dirt/gunk that's on the items from the Nepalese Cache, but one thing is known about it. If you manage to get it into a cut or scrape, it's pretty much a guaranteed infection. Not, like "lose your hand" level, but it's no fun (ask me how I know). Gloves are a good idea when dealing with anything covered in a century of grease and dirt anyway, but whatever is in that seems to be especially nasty. Otherwise these are quite beautiful examples, every one I've ever seen look about that same as yours. Some are a little better, some aren't quite as nice, but they are all perfectly acceptable.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

Gloves are a good idea when it comes to keeping yourself clean and, most important, protect from cuts when rubbing on a sharp blade!

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

@My Brand I use thin cut resistant gloves with a rubber like finish. I have NO problems like the ones you are talking about, and i work as a tool sharpener for a woodworking industry. The thing is that you have to use the right type of gloves. BTW leather gloves protects from cuts much better than no gloves at all.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

@My Brand Please realise that ANY glove protects better than NO glove. In my job i use rubberized cut resistant gloves all the time but it is vital when moving and lifting cutting tools that weighs 25 kg or more. We do not use belt sanders. We have a system of profile templates and grinding wheels. Much better precision. I believe that the technologies differs between US and countries of northen Europe. Heavy leather gloves have not been in use, for protection, in my country for over 20 years. ( At an professional level)

[@jamespuckett9753]

Very helpful. Just picked up the same pair from Atlanta Cutlery and it gives me some confidence on where to start.

[@hotrodbob6573]

I cleaned mine with Dawn dish detergent and a green scotch bright. It is now completely clean. I used a brass brush to clean the wood

[@dannyhussain5489]

This was a lot of fun to watch. Your cadence is so pleasant.

[@ColtonWilson3000]

It's really cool to get those right out of an armory. I really dig it. Got alot of guns that way. But never a knife.

[@andresperez8658]

It would be nice to see more restoration videos, really liked this one.

[@751v4]

Hey Matt, would you mind making an video about "friendly-fire" on medieval battlefields? It has always bugged me how people could tell one another apart in the middle of all that chaos, thanks.

[@-Zevin-]

I agree this could make for a good video, however i think the answer is, in real life battles almost never devolved into a chaotic melee like in Hollywood, where everyone is meshed together, with both sides swinging widely in every direction. In reality men would have stuck together and attacked shoulder to shoulder working as a team. Typically i think it would have been fairly obvious when you have a block of men facing one direction most with poll arms and a opposing block of men facing in the other direction with poll arms, each taking stabs at each-other and moving forwards / backwards as the battle ebbed and flowed. Also you do have things like heraldry and painting on shields and banners on medieval cavalry clearly marking who they are, since cavalry was the most mobile and most likely to get mixed in formations. Many knights would have been clearly marked and vibrantly decorated often in bright colors.

[@greggs1067]

I bought a bhojpure (Paid for hand select) and sheath (backordered), and you definitely have better versions than I. Observations: I haven’t any writing/markings on mine. The edge has been inexpertly reprofiled recently, with bluing at the tip and multi angle bevel at points.The handle is tiered, with no ring protruding at the center of the handle, and between that tier and the butt flare, the wood is not shiny but scraped as if from a knife. The handle may have filler in it, but it looks old, so Altlanta Cutlery is not likely involved with that. It’s good for its age, and I’ll still enjoy it. It’s good to have a genuine kukri, but buyers should be aware that Matt’s gifted versions may not be the norm. I really was looking forward to having markings to show provenance.

[@greggs1067]

I will also note that my blade has a twist to it. Not sure if “hand select” did little more than get me a solid wall hangar with a 21st century edge.

[@Matt_The_Hugenot]

Use Lemon Oil on the wood, it will both remove the old dirt and oil the wood at the same time and will make the least change to the original colour. In the UK Chestnut brand oil is available from good woodworking shops, I'm sure there's equivalents elsewhere. I'd like to know what finishing oil was used traditionally in Nepal, something I should have asked but didn't.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

I would say that lemon oil is great but perhaps unnecessary here. Save the lemon oil to finer applications like music instruments and the like. This is a military weapon after all. linseed oil will do just fine and is probably more historicaly correct. You can clean with a rag with some paraffin oil on. EDIT: In Nepal i think they use the bone marrow of their fallen enemies..... :-D

[@Matt_The_Hugenot]

@@RiderOftheNorth1968 Lemon oil isn't vastly expensive and you won't use much on a khukri handle. I looked up what they grow in Nepal and the historic oilseed crop is flax so linseed oil is what I'd finish it with if necessary.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

@@Matt_The_Hugenot In my experience lemon oil is very "thin" and therefor not the best for this application. Raw linseed oil is thicker and fills the wood better.

[@Matt_The_Hugenot]

@@RiderOftheNorth1968 It is very thin. That has benefits in cleaning the old grime, it soaks right in penetrating deeper than other coils and doesn't film. Of course if you want something to fill the pores and form a protective film then boiled linseed oil is the way to go. There's nothing to stop you applying BLO over the lemon oil to get the benefits of both.

[@jameswoodard4304]

Brits: "Washing up liquid." (Five syllables) Americans: "Dish soap." (Two syllables) Also, does my nerd-dar pick up that the box on the shelf in the background is the D&D Essentials Kit? If so, I am impressed, sir. A scholar, a gentleman, and a nerd. That's a truly rare combination.

[@alastairmonk6439]

Can't speak for every Brit, but typically "soap" comes in solid bars and is used for personal hygiene whereas washing up liquid comes in bottles and is what we use in the kitchen! Maybe habits are different on the other side of The Pond ...

[@jameswoodard4304]

@@alastairmonk6439 , Yes, technically the stuff that comes in bars (and some liquids) is soap while the stuff you use for laundry and dishes is actually a "detergent." Soap is a natural product of soponification, while detergents are other cleaning compounds besides soap. "Dish soap" bottles in the US say "detergent" on them just like they do everywhere else, because that's what they technically are and don't want to get sued for false advertising. I wasn't really joking about labeling, but about what the stuff is called colloquially.

[@seanpoore2428]

Matts high speed scrubbing is uniquely satisfying lmfao

[@Viktor_Johansson]

Matt, the first part of the inscription on the long leaf is "श्री३चन्द्र" means "thrice honored Chandra/Rana" probably refering to the prime minister Chandra Shumsher Jang Bahadur Rana in office 1901-1929 so the Longleaf is probably WWI era not 19th century. The second part is two letters and numbers designating the battalion. I can't make out exactly what that second part says. First letter is "म ma" second letter might be "म्ह mha"(?) or another variation of "ह ha" Then the numbers are ?/41. I cant make out the first number.

[@Viktor_Johansson]

The first number in the battalion designation is like a upside down 8 "८" or a mirrored 9 "९" or a strange kind of old 7 "७" I dpn't get it!

[@avenillacastienkersteter8283]

I really liked this video. You showed how to take care of the knives. Could you do more videos like this one. How do you care for your personal implements?

[@madao7865]

5:48 Wow, that's fast. You're a machine!

[@murraykriner9425]

Since these have some historical importance, I'm gathering that any further care should not be taken in their restoration, as its patina might be compromised, and be undesired for anyone collecting them. My 2nd brother, and his son have obsessed over these knives for ages, and I was considering gifting something like this to each of them. Thanks for your efforts and care on these lovely Nepalese Fighting Knives.

[@LarryGarfieldCrell]

Damnit, Matt, I ended up buying one of these because of you. :-) (I guess their marketing department was right to send you some.) Haven't cleaned it yet, but hopefully will be doing so this weekend based on this video. Thanks!

[@DrygdorDradgvork]

I'm a little late, so hopefully Matt still sees this. I just got my Bhojpure from ACC and noticed that there is some slight distal warping on the blade, starting about halfway between the edge and the spine, right along the belly. I don't really plan on using my antique kukri for hard use, but in case I ever have do, do you think the warping could cause a safety hazard?

[@scottydouglass1892]

Oh boy, if I could move my hand that fast I would never have to go out on a Friday night.

[@ChromeMan04]

I think Matt loves kukris

[@dronillon2578]

5:48 Loved the sounds.

[@mylesdobinson1534]

How about a lesson on sharpening a Kukri Matt.

[@kevinreardon2558]

I just bought the smaller one with the new scabbard. I hope you get a little bit of a royalty from that. The Gurkha have a reputation of honor and efficiency.

[@greggs1067]

How is the condition of yours?

[@kevinreardon2558]

@@greggs1067 The handle has some chunks missing like you would expect with them being stored in a pile for 100 years. I'm thinking after I clean it, I'll try some kintsukuroi on the handle. I thought I was missing part of the grip, but found that its part of the design. I'm happy with the purchase (so far). Need to clean it up and see what shape the handle is in. Its going to be impossible to find out what kind of wood it is. I wish it came with a certificate of authentication. I hope the preservative is real and not differential oil.

[@greggs1067]

@@kevinreardon2558 Good to hear! I've been thinking about trying to straightening my bent one using a vice and wood blocks. If I can do that without messing with the patina, I'll be happy with mine.

[@kevinreardon2558]

@@greggs1067 I just did the initial cleaning using Dove (it works for oily birds). Its in good shape. I'm going to take the "patina" off. It has crude polishing marks. Also, it has a metal bolster which surprised me. A little acetone on the handle and then a liberal application of Danish Oil should get this thing looking quite nice.

[@greggs1067]

@@kevinreardon2558 NICE!

[@shadowphoenix8962]

I got one from them about 10 years ago,surprized they still have them. The grease was easy but mine has what looks like sap ,havent been able to get off.

[@57WillysCJ]

Mechanic's hand cleaner cleans old grease off metal really well. If it has lanolin, it leaves a bit of protection. If was harsh enough to harm what you are cleaning then it would tear up your skin.

[@humungus3]

Interesting and informative as always.

[@inregionecaecorum]

I have to say I felt tempted, but then I thought stick tang gonna be loose after a hundred years, gonna stick to my vintage Elwell billhooks after all crafted by generations of smiths. I do have Kukri, a perfect example I got from a flea market of what not to buy just about everything wrong with it.

[@terryoneill9525]

elwell i have just one really sharp looking around for anouther

[@John..18]

They used to use YAK FAT many years ago, for preservation of steel and iron implements, in many Asian rural communities... Maybe that's what it is ?? I'm tempted to order one, but unsure of the quality I'll receive, I bet Atlanta, sent you the best of the bunch, for the sake of advertising,, (foc ?? ),,. So, I think I'll stick with my KHHI Sirupati, which is absolutely superb, (and highly recommended).. Even though it doesn't have the historical provenance, that these do,, at least it's all traditional, and made by Nepalese craftsmen.. Great sales pitch tho' Mat.. Lol...

[@seantierney3]

I had ordered from IMA and got a kukri is about the same condition as mats. I have a KHHI kukri as well and it is great working blade but the balance and feel of these older ones is much better.

[@-Zevin-]

Also here to say that i have 5 kukri from Atlanta cutlery, 3 were in similar condition to mats, 2 had allot of pitting that is deep enough that it won't come out without some serious sanding. As far as Kukri house kukri go, Gorkha Zone Khukuri House is my favorite for price and quality. You get tapered thin historically weighted blades, 400-500grams with full tangs. I would avoid most other cheap "Kukri house" kukri since most tend to be too thick, too little taper and too over weight. However there is some good ones out there for far cheaper than Himalayan imports. For historical replicas Tora blades is fantastic.

[@45calibermedic]

@@-Zevin- Kailash Blades, Heritage Blades, and Tora Blades seem to be the top of the heap. Personally, I would pick more based on the exact model you want, unless you don't want a traditional heat treatment, in that case, don't go with Tora.

[@-Zevin-]

@@45calibermedic Yeah I would agree for the most part, although I don't own a Kailash blade specifically. However I want to give another shoutout to Gurkha zone kurhkuri house (gz-khurkuri-house), the only place I am aware of that they sell is on Ebay, and their selection is quite small. However I would say they are on par with Tora, of similar or slightly cheaper price. Traditionally water quenched on the edge as well. Great distal taper, weight in grams is perfect. They feel great in the hand, and mine have come with the best factory sharpening I have ever had on a kukri. What I really like about GZk however is their communication, and supporting a small Nepali owned and operated business. Not to mention they are willing and able to specifically build kukri to exact specs off of historical examples if you ask them too. Just don't let the name fool you, they are a tiny operation and their quality is miles above the hundred other "Kukri house" kukris that are sold to tourists. My only criticism of them specifically is they tend to make most of their stuff "full tang" although they will do a traditional partial glued tang if you ask them to.

[@45calibermedic]

@@-Zevin- I will have to look them up, thanks for the tip. These relatively small, newer companies like the ones I listed, once vetted, turn out to be very energetic organizations with an impressive emphasis on quality.

[@FredCheckers]

The one I got mentions the administration on the spine. It puts it as early as 1901 but before the adoption of the Anglicised MK1 with the peen.

[@brandon7482]

I got mine last year from IMA. I used wd40 as well the. My recipe of beeswax and crisco to protect the wood and metal

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

It is important to use a rag that you can throw away after. Like a shirt thats not in use or the wifes wedding dress.....

[@woopize]

I'm trying to decide between the longleaf and the bohjpure, I realy love the devangari inscription on the longleafs but maybe it's too big? Whic one would you recommend me if you had to choose one of the two? thanks!

[@hotrodbob6573]

I just had one given to me, it has text on the spine. I just cleared it with Dawn dish detergent.

[@TheLegendMaster]

Hullo Matt, I'm a long-time viewer and I bought a sword from you some years ago! I just watched the Alfred the Great film from 1969 and I'd love it if you did one of your battle reviews of it. It is an interesting film with good atmosphere but historically it is all over the place, though I tend to forgive that if it's still a good film which this may or may not be. It's available as a Spanish import fairly easily on Amazon.

[@sushanalone]

5:50 Careful Matt, when you work so quickly or you'l lose some fingers. 10:15 Damn i wish i was as quick as Matt in polishing my khukhri, but then id come in 2 seconds.

[@belovedgrandson]

Another interesting video. Although, I believe that the kukrax is a superior weapon than a kukri and tomahawk.

[@rickkenny]

I have a Service No. 1 (Sarkhari Khukhuri), I purchased from Khukhuri House, in Nepal, in 2015. Before placing it in storage, I treated the blades with my wife's kitchen cooking aerosol spray, thinking that any oil will prevent rust and preserve the steel. A few weeks ago, I removed it from storage. Once removed, I noticed that the oil I used had dried to a gummy resin. Once cleaned, the knife retained it's polished exterior, but this gummy residue left some tarnish, NOT rust. Using a buffer wheel on my bench grinder, just seems to polish it more, but the tarnish remains. My question is, do I have to remove whatever polished coating (if there is one), or sand it down and re-polish it, or just leave it alone? The tarnish gives the piece an antique look, which I am liking the more that I see it. Or, should this drill/ceremony/display weapon retain it's inspection-worthy appearance?

[@thepathofspice]

I have a mini kukri that's probably the same age as the ones you have. It has a beautiful serpent/snake? and a few other designs. But I cant see them due to the rust scars. I also can't find another one like it on the internet. I just need help restoring it.

[@tiocybot]

Fairy liquid sounds like something that come out of a certain type of individual.

[@MufflerDindin]

I ordered one recently. They just refunded 1/3 of my payment with no explanation, so I'm curious to see what condition the kukri will be in once it arrives. Hopefully it will still be an original.

[@scholagladiatoria]

I think this might be because they just updated their prices (lowered them).

[@benjaminstevens4468]

I saw your comment a few hours ago. I ordered one and also got refunded a third of the total cost as well. Around the time I was watching this vid and reading your post. So maybe they just decided to drop the price? Seems unlikely it would be because the ones they are shipping us both are sub-par, but hey I guess we shall see.

[@benjaminstevens4468]

That is why indeed

[@benjaminstevens4468]

What Matt said about updating the price

[@richardlumb5047]

Atlanta Cutlery have a “price match guarantee” clause on the website. IMA are selling these (listed as not having the markings...) at significantly lower than the earlier ACC price and ACC appear to have dropped their prices to match. I got the refund too.

[@PahaLukki]

Can the steel ferrules corrode from the inside out like cars do? Or what is the reason for brass ferrules then?

[@BH-rx3ue]

Ah the age old battle of "how much do i restore this antique" I love a shiny blade, i love a patina blade.

[@anthonyhayes1267]

People nowadays seem to be aggressively polishing every antique they get their hands on.

[@Kane856]

Oh I wish I had some spare cash ....... :)

[@Matt_The_Hugenot]

I'd have started by soaking the blade in mineral spirits and kept water away from it. Didn't think Fairy liquid would work.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

Do not underestimate the power of washing up liquid! It is great stuff for cleaning a lot of things, as black powder residue!

[@Matt_The_Hugenot]

@@RiderOftheNorth1968 Definitely, although just hot water will shift that provided it's maintenance not years old caked on gunk.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

@@Matt_The_Hugenot True, but i feel that washing up liquid helps to "lift" the dirt away and makes it easier to rinse clean. And don´t forget to dry and oil immediately!!

[@Matt_The_Hugenot]

@@RiderOftheNorth1968 Ballistol ftw.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

@@Matt_The_Hugenot I have no experience with Ballistol so i can´t comment.....

[@nathanward4899]

lovely video

[@jeffreyragsdale3569]

Matt, are you using 000 steel wool or something a bit more agressive?

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

I don´t know but it looks coarser than 000.... No help for you i guess, sorry.

[@thelegendaryklobb2879]

Another option for removing old grease would be rubbing with kerosene or gasoline

[@lawrencemajor305]

I'm a bit confused Matt, after all of the gunk is cleaned up, what more needs to be done re regards to their restoration?"

[@scholagladiatoria]

Nothing *needs* to be done. This is good honest antique condition with patina. Anything extra that is done will be personal choice - I could buff these to look almost like new, but I won't.

[@earllay3349]

Could you please discuss the pairing of spear and buckler? Is there any historical treatise on this - or any historical evidence of this pairing?

[@benjaminstevens4468]

Fairy liquid= Dawn inter US, I’m guessing?

[@ant9610]

I think any sort of grease remover dish liquid would work

[@anthonyhayes1267]

Well, I've stalled long enough. I'm getting one.

[@RiderOftheNorth1968]

Good for you! I am still resisting. I just got myself a M-43 Swiss officer dagger and can´t for my life motivate the cost right now.

[@mrfahrenheit3867]

The posh use Marigold gloves, I've seen it with me own eyes

[@ashergreen3356]

If I were to want to sharpen kukris like these, what edge bevel angle would you you recommend?

[@SirBoden]

Surprised you’re not using copper kitchen scrubby‘s.

[@I..cast..fireball]

DnD essential kit. Teehee.

[@siebensunden]

How difficult is to resharp the inner curve of the blade?

[@andersbenke3596]

Silly question, perhaps, but would the soldiers have gone through all that cleaning if they needed the kukris for war, or would the knives work just as well gunky?

[@WozWozEre]

Of course they'd work just as well, a little bit of gunk wouldn't effect cutting ability.

[@minuteman4199]

Soldiers are as spotlessly clean as conditions allow. I am pretty sure the havildars (Indian army sergeants) would not tolerate dirty kit.

[@andrewlongden7995]

Have you ever tried Evaporust during restorations? I have a few tuff cloths I tend to coat blades post clean up.

[@scholagladiatoria]

Yes I have. It's a good way to remove rust on an etched surface where you don't want to damage the etching underneath. However, it leaves a very dull grey finish which doesn't look good without further mechanical buffing.

[@jasong1872]

I'm curious, do you normally coat the blades in an oil after cleaning them in order to prevent future rust?

[@scholagladiatoria]

Yes, WD40 for general cleaning and Ballistol for storing.

[@althesmith]

One almost looks like it could be wootz. May just be the light though.

[@EldarKinSlayer]

So...which one has Lucy claimed?

[@ant9610]

I have a sword that I got a few months a go, and it's got some black and rustish looking residue on it. How should I go about cleaning and preserving it? I have Renaissance wax, ballistol, Nevr-Dull metal polish, steel wool, WD-40, and some pink chemical rust remover. I'm really nervous about messing up the polish and the finish :(

[@pascal6871]

Matt has some older videos where he restores some sabers, they go into much more detail. Rule of thumb is, start with the mildest thing you have, basically soap and a rag and move very slowly up the ladder of aggressive materials until you like it.

[@ant9610]

@@pascal6871 awesome! Two short questions: 1. If you don't mind, could you link the video/tell me the title! If it's too much trouble, no worries, I'll look myself. 2. Are there videos where he goes over preservation as well? I don't plan on using this sword, so I'm looking for long term display

[@paulpasche7853]

When you're done cleaning an antique, do you coat it with any kind of oil? Honing oil?

[@manatoa1]

IIRC he likes Ballistol, a brand of gun oil.

[@JeffHays]

Fairy liquid? Does that use fairy magic?

[@amitsuryavanshi7969]

This kukri model name please ? ? ?

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

Heat from a blow dryer should draw the oils out of the wood.

[@jwrine3631]

Are those blades pattern-welded?

[@janibeg3247]

i see a well stocked WD-40 shelf.

[@QuentinStephens]

Why are you using WD40?

[@adlockhungry304]

I have a pin riveted full tang version of the kukri; not an antique, obviously. I’ve never really understood what that little notch was about. Anyone know?

[@scholagladiatoria]

Search 'kukri notch' on my videos :-D

[@adlockhungry304]

scholagladiatoria, Awesome! Thanks, Matt!

[@intermenater]

"It's really hard. I'm gonna hav'to'have a go at it off camera. Ya know. Your nooks and crannies."

[@Kobolds_in_a_trenchcoat]

Doesn't cold iron harm fairies? Poor fair liquid...

[@v8tiger368]

I think from what I've read, IMA and ACC were in partnership to bring the shipment back. IMA also has kukri's as well as the guns, and is still selling a few. If you search you'll find the documentary 'Treasure is where you find it' that tells the full story of Christian Cranmer journey to bring the cache kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6qrgKCdipl0nNU

[@kingkuroneko7253]

Yo

[@kingkuroneko7253]

I am the 1k liked

[@wrightalberta6959]

football vines

[@themastermason1]

Anybody here after seeing Matt's Facebook post?

[@krigsgaldr7603]

4:43: 'you can actually see signs of use on these prior to them being put in the ass hole.' Excuuuuuuse me Matt :^)

[@henrya2712]

Que desperdicio de agua solo para lavar un kukri

[@gabrielramirez8194]

pet sematary 2019

[@nimrodthewise836]

Baking soda and vinegar would do a much better job..

[@scholagladiatoria]

To etch or remove patina, yes. Not to remove grease in this case.

[@overeasymode]

First

[@benjaminstevens4468]

Second actually, unfortunate if that was your whole purpose in commenting 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@maximilianolimamoreira5002]

cheers,mate.