SCX24 Bronco Build Part 2 - More Power!!!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Timestamps Phase 1 recap 00:24 Phase 2 upgrades 1:29 Baseline course run 2:37 Installation tips 5:00 Upgraded course run 9:24 Upgrade impressions 12:07 Wrap up 13:04

[@TheTozotube]

I love this series! Really helping me get into crawling

[@brandyngray6629]

Nice to see someone so close by actually in the hobby. Great videos

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! Where are you located?

[@brandyngray6629]

@@CapeCrawlers stoughton/ new Bedford always looking for someone to crawl with.

[@CapeCrawlers]

@@brandyngray6629 you’re real close! We should definitely get together some time!

[@TrevorParkJones]

These are the exact upgrades I'm doing next on my Bronco! Nice to see how well they work out. Thanks Adam, another great video!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thank you! This setup works really well!

[@orrc16]

Very nice 👍😉 good job my Friend 👍

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks!

[@colinday7085]

Thanks man, I was getting frustrated with my bronco, but now I think I got it. I just ordered everything you did and I have ideas for making it tip over way less. Thanks man!

[@CapeCrawlers]

Awesome! Let me know how it works!

[@NWGarage]

Great video !

[@CapeCrawlers]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@TheDroc1990]

This thing is sick

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! It’s been a very fun build

[@highrc8083]

My next build is gonna be a bronco! Can’t wait to get started on it

[@CapeCrawlers]

They respond really well to upgrades! Super fun to work on.

[@rcplaytime]

Love what you've done with it😀😀👍👍👌👌

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thank you! It's been a wicked fun project!

[@acrccrawlers9548]

Great info brother I’m definitely getting that motor. 👍👍👍

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! The torque beast is soooo smooth.

[@2WheelsdownN]

The no spring on shock gives your more flex but i like the scale look of it.

[@grizzlyworksrc]

Make sure you set your steering endpoints with those CVD's! They only have a couple degrees more turning radious over stock and will break if you push them too far. They are way smoother though.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Good info! I did not do that, so I will have to do so now!

[@carlosxramirez]

So, after watching your first video I went out and ordered everything and slapped it on. The stance and weight was so much better than stock. But after encountering this turn radius issue I cut the edges off the bumper. After that did nothing for me I then just completely removed the front bumper and lights. Since then I’m able to hit some crazy angles and not have my steering limited. I recommend you and anyone to removed the front bumper completely and see the difference. As an added bonus the rig looks super mean without the front bumper and big swampy beadlocks.

[@CapeCrawlers]

I might have to try this! Did you trim the fenders at all or just remove the bumper? Also, what tires are you running, the same ones I’ve got? I ask because I don’t feel like I’m getting interference from the bumper at full steer.

[@terrycooper4887]

I just did the RCAWD cvd axles and the Injora steering servo and found the axles bind up under full turn, did you have the same issue?

[@tylerokimoto2141]

Do you have the 11t in brass

[@sammyboswelldirtybrc7580]

I just put a ts fabs f1c lcg chassis on my bronco seemed to help it I done it a little different then most I used deadbolt in front and c10 rear in rear

[@CapeCrawlers]

That’s interesting. It must climb really well with that shortened front end.

[@ryanjohnson8581]

Hey Adam I got a same servo for mine and steering links and I’m having an issue with steering cold you give me some advice ?

[@jacmac0422]

does having the front higher than the back make it roll over backwards more?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Yes, that’s why I try to level them out as much as possible when I can

[@jacmac0422]

Thank you for this series. I just picked up a Bronco this week and starting my upgrades. This has been awesome to watch. @@CapeCrawlers

[@steezmeisterjones]

Great videos man love this series... I am about to order my first scx24 and i am torn between the c10 or the JLU jeep. At least I know either way my truck will be getting these upgrades. Ill prolly go with servo and motor upgrade first and then tires/wheels and all the other weight based upgrades.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks for watching! The C10 and JLU use the same chassis so you could always get the body of the one you don't choose and have both!

[@steezmeisterjones]

@@CapeCrawlers Gotta love that!

[@li_rc_guy7398]

great build and videos bro! any way you can share where to mount shocks for front and rear?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Thanks! Are you on Instagram? If so, shoot me a DM and I’ll send you pictures of the mounting points.

[@shockman8014]

My Emax struggles but it is far better than stock. I need to spread the frame rails with washers on all the trays or something. The rails clear the servo if pushed down 99.5 to 100% straight down with the typical bevel cut I see. My first thought was to shim the servo back but the steering is connected to dif. don't you know. It just occurred to me that as cheap as these are that every servo replacement I ever do from now on (my last xmax lasted about 4 hours) will include a new tray with the ears cut all the way off and the servo glued to the tray. It still but seldom hits the rails without the ears. Its the C10 with furitek stinger, radiolink 6 channel v3 radio and their 7 channel receiver, steel wheels with patagonia tires, long travel shocks in the back, short travel in the front, a bit of brass parts, high links, 3/4 droop, sliders, head and tail lights without exterior hardware, rollbar without fake lightbar, and no body cuts so a scale rig.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Man, your builds sound great. I’d love to see them. Are you on Instagram? And the full cut on the servo/tray and gluing it down is a great idea. My bronco clears ~95% but could still sit lower in the front if the tray and servo ears weren’t in the way.

[@dyizhere]

It doesn’t look like you have limiting straps. How does your suspension not unload when you bind it up on a crawl?

[@CapeCrawlers]

They’re on there. I forgot to mention that in the recap. I run a single rubber band from the y-link to the body mounts and it does a good job keeping the front end down.

[@tylerokimoto2141]

3.0 TB50 11T MOD.3 is this the one?

[@CapeCrawlers]

This was the 2.0 I believe. Mod 3 yes

[@shockman8014]

I cut the ears all the way off on my xmax servo and it still binds on the C10.

[@CapeCrawlers]

LOL their stock servo is indeed a joke. I hope you get yours sorted out!

[@shockman8014]

@@CapeCrawlers Sorry. It was one of those days, all day at the bench with these things instead of on the rocks. Anyway, I was able to edit 2/3 off that post and convey the same message. Thanks for what you do here.

[@shaneparenteau9304]

I need a good tool set to be working on my truck does anyone have any recommendations of a full set?

[@CapeCrawlers]

Little guy racing parts sells a nice little kit at a good price

[@DadsRCGaragePNW]

you dont have to cut that leg off with that motor or the hot racing one that needs the mount plate. thats the motor i have in my bronco and i didnt have to cut it.

[@CapeCrawlers]

Did you have to bend the metal wires on the back at all? I felt like it had to trim it, but maybe I was being overly cautious

[@DadsRCGaragePNW]

@@CapeCrawlers the wire with the cap on it I made it stick straight. Out of the package it was laid over. Removed the esc mount for the motor in and it lined up like straight down. Put that screw in first then followed by the others. Does it touch yup. Is it super tight. Hell yeah. I just wanted to keep all the points inside the chassis rigid to help with unwanted flex. I’m going to be putting the big bad boy motor in it this week so I’m trying to find other options for mounting everything without cutting. Cheers and thanks for the response.

[@natekoro8594]

The build getting pricey