SDG

$2 for PCB Prototype(Any Color): jlcpcb.com/
1. Yellow Solder Paste: bit.ly/2Yhd9rg
2. Mechanic MCN-UV80: bit.ly/2XyaqwM
3. Pro'sKit 8S005: bit.ly/2J7FDO2
4. Weller F-SW21: bit.ly/2Yg0k0B
5. AG Termopasty TK83: bit.ly/2ZOnOdr
6. AG Termopasty LP-1: bit.ly/2J7H6UD
7. CIF F42202 Gel Flux: bit.ly/2Yk47de
8. MG Chemicals No Clean Gel: amzn.to/2IQ1j25
9. Best BST-223-UV80: bit.ly/2X4gbhe
10. Relife RL-421-OR: bit.ly/2XC6sDd
11. Relife RL-422-IM: bit.ly/2IRsU33
12. Topnik Zel Flux: bit.ly/2X8bUcV
13. KSS S800 Flux: bit.ly/2JdHlgT
14. Amtech NC-559-V2-TF: bit.ly/2XbakvI
15. Fake Amtech NC-559-ASM: bit.ly/2KGhL7u
16. Kester No Clean: bit.ly/2KDRA15
Equipment:
T12 Soldering Station: www.banggood.com/custlink/3KK...
AC Version: www.banggood.com/custlink/3GK...
T12 Iron Tips: www.banggood.com/custlink/3DG...
Daniu Tip Cleaner: bit.ly/31VHwWM
KSGER T12-BCM3 Tip: bit.ly/2xgYXCQ
Amscope Microscope Head (US): amzn.to/2YmZWNx
Amscope Trinocular Microscope (US): amzn.to/2YdBE8k
Amscope Trinocular Microscope (UK): amzn.to/2V8w9Gh
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope US: amzn.to/2VLWEpb
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope UK: amzn.to/2GYGYFV
Support the channel: / sdgelectronics
Visit my website: www.sdgelectronics.co.uk/ #ElectronicsCreators

[@jamesdavies686]

I realize it's only been a little over a year, but you should do this same video again as a revisit with some same and some new brands. Since bait and switch happens so often in the parts world, would be interesting to see if the cheap stuff still holds up today.

[@cerglabs3646]

Excellent suggestion.

[@fmburner]

Should throw kingbo in the mix

[@FranckBossi]

2 years now

[@3nertia]

I would like to second this ...

[@hoggif]

Banggood yellow tub melts at (or below) 100C. I melted it and poured in syringes. Quite cheap and seems to work well. You get quite a few syringes out of a tub of that!

[@trevorwhite9138]

Thanks, this was a really useful video. Having all the links really helped me find the best product and the easiest for me to order.

[@ericeschborn1315]

thanks for sharing! As a hobbyist who only really has warmed my tip to soldering, it's refreshing to have such insightful videos

[@fishyrider3528]

Point to point old radio oxidized joints. Need the test. Great job. Good to have you back. Hello from Romania.

[@What_I_Make]

Your analogy on the fluid is spot on. As a part of the soldering I carried out at work, we looked at this and using the microscope could see the heat from the soldering iron directly burning off or evaporating the adjacent flux. I do have a concern with the thin consistency. Originally and at home, I use a thick paste and found, and in both cases, they last a very long time. With the thinner paste, it is tough to administer by hand, and because the density is lower gets used up very quickly. This may be my method, but there was a definite consumption at work between the two.

[@KimoKimochii]

by the flux lasting long does it become so thick it’s unusable? i find after a few minutes the flux gets so dried and thick on the board i need it clean it off and reapply

[@larsgregersen]

Thank you for this demonstration. Especially for showing the effect (or lack thereof) of not using flux at all!

[@sdgelectronics]

SOIC is about the limit for using no flux, but I have a video coming shortly for SMD IC soldering 👍

[@rangwankasantikul9223]

I guess it might be a great idea to rerun the tests on a non-plated copper boards. That's a better way to test the flux's ability to deal with oxides.

[@585585MC]

for me this is a wonderful channel. great tests, great video quality, great audio, great voice and speaking ability.

[@deangreenhough1178]

Absolutely superb analysis. Many thanks for the work and effort that went into this video. Off to buy the CIF flux as recommended. Many thanks Steve

[@Shay_Nichol]

Since watching this video when it was released I've been using CIF at work and it's helped a lot! thank you!

[@MikeyMack303]

In my experience, over many years, the amber flux paste is a great go to for best performance, no matter what label. Thank you for sharing that with us.

[@TheGuitologist]

Excellent comparison. Very helpful.

[@allallall2321]

HUITA

[@anastasiosbetzelos4954]

Just wanted to say thank you for the very useful info and for your time spent on this video!! Subscribed to the channel in a nutshell after checking your other videos as well!!

[@GeekDetour]

Excellent video! I am new to SMD soldering... so, I got a couple of soldering paste and flux - but they didn't perform as nicely as the best ones you've shown, BY FAR! I thought it was just my inexperience, my lack of technique, but your video showed quite some difference between them, I am purchasing the ones you recommended and then I can be sure what is my fault :) Thanks!

[@AmeyJadiye]

Thanks for such a nice demo, it's quite useful even after two years to understand the in-out of the usability of flux. I have tried a few cheap fluxes with bad results. for me, the liquid one turned out to be the best one. thanks again for your guidance. I was also expecting this to be tried on raw copper endpoints to see the effectiveness.

[@habtamusium8646]

it was my gap to identify the flux and know how to apply them for my new business plan , now i begin my 1st step . many thanks ! lovely work .

[@danfreeman8225]

Outstanding vid! Great layout, info and timing. Also excellent layout of links! I might suggest a couple things that might help. It could be handy to know the details of the solder you used and the temp (if you had a way to measure) and having video times next to the list in the description. Thanks so much, it really helped!

[@electronicsoverhaul]

Chip Quik SMD291 is great for soldering on ICs. It has a low viscosity, a greasy consistency. SMD4300TF10 is good for whatever else. Amtech does leave a sticky residue I don't like. When you heat the flux, it’s very transparent making it easy to see what you're doing. These are good for phones and small SMD work. I think rosin-based flux is fine for just about everything but can be harder to see for the small stuff with it's yellow coloring or becoming browner with heat. Rosin doesn't evaporate and smoke as quickly as Amtech. You can heat rosin to 500C, and it won't evaporate. It can turn darker as it heats up with use as you slide the solder iron around it more. Use what you like for whatever applications.

[@jamesdavies686]

Watching this again it's interesting how the solder climbs the component leg on some but not other fluxes, even if the flux did well with no bridges.

[@ocobotec]

Excellent video, I had been watching videos of solder paste all afternoon and this one is really worth watching.

[@els1f]

Man, your channel is incredible! So much great info 👍

[@imqqmi]

Agreed, it's a goldmine of info!

[@Galactus314]

These fluxes were all tested on surface mount components, using PCBs with no vias. When heated, they all turn to liquid, and near by vias could drain it away. The liquid fluxes you can clearly see evaporating along the right edge at 6:20 and 6:50 respectively. They seems to have very limited uses. As someone else commented, I'm curious how the SRA No Clean Tacky Flux could handle those condtions. Also, I do a fair amount of through-hole soldering, and literally all of these fluxes are simply too thin for that. So I'm seeing a good case for another video. Boards with vias, the SRA flux, and something for the THT crowd (zinc chloride, as well as non-ZCl). Thanks!

[@helenh9563]

Love this video, thanks so much! I do would like more emphasis on environmental impact of the different fluxes.

[@joepangit6938]

The yellow tub of Bangood flux is really nice, and can ship from USA. The only down side to it, is that a brand new one weighs 113 grams including the container. So it's maybe 100g, not the 150g they sell it as.

[@jerryrojas5216]

This was a great & well done video! Thank you for the great reviews & results breakdown

[@cdyoutoob]

Would be good to see this done after 12-18 month with a broader range of fluxes. Perhaps ask viewers to submit flux suggestions. And also to have a review panels of other engineers / friends score the solutions. Could show off the corrosion of the test boards done from a year before so we can access long term viability of solder.

[@subukai]

Thanks for the review. I ordered some of the Yellow Solder paste. It will probably take a couple weeks to get to me but the price was right.

[@OriginalMergatroid]

Excellent video. I have been using MG Chemicals flux pen that is a liquid flux. This is the stuff Nintendo recommended to us about two decades ago. I never did like it much and it was constantly bridging, especially on the last few pins. If course, those ships had over 100 pins so the gap between the pins was smaller. I just ordered some MG No Clean solder paste before coming across your video. I am happy it performed well in your tests. I would love to see some examples of how to resolder a BGA chip using this flux.

[@Nanospear]

Excellent video, I enjoyed the demonstration with each product. Kudos!

[@ristomatti]

I'm just starting with SMD soldering (or planning to do so for long) and this was extremely useful information. The brand/price overlays over the different options and again on the results was brilliant. So easy to compare. Talking pace and speech clarity also spot on. Great work, thank you! Two things I would have liked to hear (or missed): 1) what type of solder was used, 2) is the shelf life of the flux jars longer than on the ones that come in a tube? With the little time I have, it might be weeks or a month between I solder anything requiring flux. It's quite frustrating as the manufacturers state the shelf life to be only months. I've seen tips of reactivating old flux with IPA (maybe it was also on your channel?) but I've yet to try it.

[@paulgrodkowski3412]

Yes, Italian's are goog engieers!

[@ristomatti]

How is this related to my comment 3 years back? My questions are still valid btw. I've yet to have the time (or need) to get into SMD. 😬

[@paulgrodkowski3412]

@@ristomatti My apologies.

[@Zellonous]

the great thing about tubs is being able to dip wires into them for wire tinning, etc.

[@Sherifone78]

One of best videos ever, best explanation. Thanks, subscribed

[@tonybell1597]

Excellent work, thanks, its always been the source of dilemma: "Which flux is best", heard across You Tube repair channels, so this is some really excellent advice, many thanks....

[@sdgelectronics]

My testing is probably in no way authoritative, but hopefully it gives some reference for anyone unsure. Thanks

[@johnyang799]

@@sdgelectronics Can we get a test of how fast does the flux get boiled off?

[@sdgelectronics]

@@johnyang799 yes, coming soon

[@ivanr5315]

Although an old video, it is really useful. I used to use the amtech fake flux for years and recently tried the CIF. The CIF leaves a sticky residue that in my opinion needs to be cleaned. Fortunately it is easy to clean.

[@dvmavgoor]

Zinc chloride containing fluxes (such as the weller one) are not suitable for electronic components soldering, they are mostly for plumbing since ZnCl2 is pretty corosive and has to be removed after soldering. Moreover, ZnCl2 is extremely dangerous for a human: it's a skin irritant and its fumes cause lungs diseases.

[@sdgelectronics]

Interesting, I hadn't noticed the composition but it was picked out alongside the other flux pastes from an electronics supplier.

[@marcotestarmata]

IMHO the genuine Amtech really shine when used with an hot air gun. It really make the difference, it stays there active for a long time but you really need good ventilation or a real fume extractor, it is very smoky. The fake Amtech's residue are much harder to remove and they spread wider on the board. It is cheap but i won't buy it again. For general soldering i like to use the liquid TOPNIK RF800 in a squeeze bottle with a fine gauge needle. I work mostly with beefy through hole components. RF800's residue are really easy to remove with IPA and the flux works very well and it is not very smoky. Liquid flux are good just with a soldering iron. With hot air you need a gel flux, and the Amtech is the the best flux i've ever used. Just my two cents.

[@sdgelectronics]

I'm going to do a test with hot air shortly - firstly with the PCB used in this video, but it sounds like it would be worth getting another test board with some large ICs and a ground plane on it. Thanks

[@Slavolko]

Louis Rossmann swears by genuine Amtech flux for all the work he does. In fact, he buys and re-sells them because he trusts them that much and wants others to be able to reliably source the genuine parts.

[@pr0xZen]

@@Slavolko It's fair to promote it as it's genuinely great for its appropriate usecases. But its also really expensive, at least for those who do not generate any revenue on soldering work. And for many of those without a national/regional distributor, as international shipping and potential import taxes can make the total price really brutal. I need to point out that the sentiment pushed by Louis about the _process of buying_ Amtech flux is a horrible ordeal involving faxing orders etc, is either false or long outdated. You can just order it online from Amtechdirect.com . They're one of the few official distributors for Iventec (Amtech is a product lineup, Iventec is the company), and as such they keep shipment-ready stock of pretty much the whole Amtech lineup. So if you need _anything else_ from the Amtech lineup, these guys are great to have around, as you don't need to worry about getting fake products. That said - unless you want 10cc quanitites, or large tubs, buying no clean 559V2 tacky flux from Rossmanngroup is not a bad idea at all if the shipping etc works for you. Because the 30cc units Rossmann Group sell, are $16. From Amtechdirect they're $27.

[@MPETE1976]

Good to see RF800 being recommended as I have a 100ml and 2x50ml bottles + some other stuff coming my way from Poland this week.

[@MPETE1976]

@@pr0xZen $34.99

[@WACkZerden]

very informative and satisfying to watch. thank you for doing this.

[@pentachronic]

Very useful video. I've been using a liquid MG rosin flux for the last 5+ years and It's worked well but leaves a horrible residue which I have to laboriously clean with alcohol. Was looking for a newer style flux and your review has been very helpful. Just ordered through one of your links. Thanks.

[@allanknox8216]

CHANGE TO OA FLUX! You'll never look back.

[@nerijusk9598]

@@allanknox8216 what is OA flux?

[@allanknox8216]

@@nerijusk9598 OA flux stands for "Organic acid" it has stuff like citric and phosphoric acids - all water soluble. It's pretty aggressive and completely cleaned with warm water - no solvents. I only switched because every CM I worked with was already using it. Rosin flux has been out of favor for a long time. Chine uses no-clean to save money.

[@fibranijevidra]

Nice comparison. It would be great if you could make v2 with other comparisons mentioned in the comments. You already have all those fluxes, so it would not take much effort.

[@DoctoreDoom]

Thank you for making this video, you have a great channel!

[@gervaisdube1843]

Very helpfull for a beginner like me and a nice demo of soldering technique for those components. Thanks!

[@nigelman9506]

In one placed I worked at, I used a Flux pen with long bristles, it was like clear jelly and was fantastic on surface mount ic's with the solder pads underneath, did not evaporate and easy to clean, I don't remember the name of it

[@srikanthswt]

Nice video. It's satisfying to see the solder flow. I did not see you mentioning which Solder you used for this. By the way it flowed it felt like Leaded, any chance it is unleaded?

[@PapaGleb]

Great video. Quick question, is there a way to turn a paste flux softer to put it in a tube/syringe? I just started to with electronics repair and purchased basic tools which got to me this flux as it was the cheapest but its so hard to apply.

[@Limeayy]

OMFG, i'm in love with your channel already. I was thinking about using Amtech NC-559 as well, great you have a comparison. I'm a new subscriber. Thanks and keep up the great work!

[@rickshabin]

Informative. Professionally made.Good.

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

Thanks Steve! Here lately I have been using Chip Quik SMD291 No Clean Tack Flux for SMD work. It seems to work great.

[@pa4tim]

I used that too, I loved it but Farnell took it out of their assortment. Now I use the Topnik TK83 (after trying several others). It is not as good as the Chip Quik but good enough. I liked the tacky stuff because it holds the component on its place (i use it professional for repair work)

[@sdgelectronics]

I used to use several different Chip Quik fluxes, but I noticed Farnell have dropped many of their lines, so it's not as easily available.

[@pa4tim]

@@sdgelectronics OK, you are right, it does not make sense to test it, if it is hard to get. I hated that I needed to find a replacement because the stuff is not cheap and I did not like the most I tested. The same goes for solder. Thanks, this was very interesting video.

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

pa4tim I am just a hobbyist but I am starting to get pretty good at microsoldering and using my rework station. I also try to always use my board preheater. The preheater makes rework easier for me.

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

SDG Electronics Hmm, sounds like Chip Quik needs to get on the ball! They are losing money!

[@jw200]

Thanks, very useful. I would like to see same about solder paste for SMD. (the grey one). Which one is good? I have one from Aliexpress but its drying out and its unusable.

[@Royal_LXIX]

Nice! Thanks for the video, been looking for a breakdown of the different fluxes. That third paste was real bad haha, looked like it bridged the last like 4 pins as well

[@abdulwaaseihsultan7733]

Really detailed. Hats off

[@Hackvlog]

I used to use some other liquid flux, but can't remember which brand it was. It had same properties as the ones you tested: More flux was needed for larger IC's. It either boiled away or spread so much, there wasn't enough flux around the last pins. Practice will make it better, but main cause is the properties of the flux. In my opinion liquid flux is very easy and quick to apply. I'll add TK83 to my shopping list, thanks to your video! Well done with the comparison!

[@sdgelectronics]

I think the liquid fluxes just aren't as suited to this particular style of soldering. It would be great for BGA style work as the liquid is drawn into gaps easily. It also cleaned off very easily. Thanks

[@The.Doctor.Venkman]

Thanks, Steve.

[@rich1051414]

I use SRA Rosin Paste Flux #135. Kind of thick for SMD, but it's really tacky which I like.

[@almosawi32]

Yes, it is very useful, thanks for this tutorial

[@rubenmejia4881]

Do you have or plan to make an updated video with more different fluxes?

[@meenroy]

thANKS, i was looking for this video.

[@TheMechatronicEngineer]

One of the best flux comparison I've ever seen! What do you use to clean the flux residue?

[@sombatone]

Isopropyl alcohol

[@thesocker7920]

@@sombatone 99% ISP

[@W1RMD]

Great video! I didn't know that zinc chloride could be used in electronics. I was surprised to see that one of the fluxes had that in it. I've got some Kester 959T. I can't find it mentioned on youtube or anywhere else, but it does say that it is for wave soldering 0.5% rosin no clean. I assume it can be used to hand solder as well. What are your thoughts? Thanks and great youtube channel by the way.

[@fochdischitt3561]

It would be interesting to know how they perform well past expiration.

[@tomvleeuwen]

I would be interested in how good these fluxes perform when using hot air soldering.

[@Kholaslittlespot1]

Yeah, this is when the liquid fluxes should come into their own

[@linkavichtruousky1]

I have previously bought inexpensive Chinese flux and after using it even in a well ventilated area would feel a bit sick sort of like flu symptoms. After switching to a name product i dont get this anymore so be careful as i have no idea whats in the cheap stuff and I’m sure there is not much quality control happening. The cheap flux cost me $1 AU compared to $15 AU for a rosin flux that i use now.

[@TechnologyHive]

Very nice comparison! Thanks for sharing!

[@thetraindriver01]

Great review, thanks for the effort 👍

[@KrotowX]

Now would like to see proper board cleaning from flux residue tutorial :) Although PRF 6-68 cleaner liquid with cotton swabs do the thing just fine, I'm curious about how to get flux residue out of bottom of ICs. What I noticed - JBC C245931 minispoon tip still do the job on QFP packages very good. BST-223 paste is not so good for small QFP ICs and USB sockets. Once fried few traces on board and one microUSB socket because used BST-223 and pins instantly got swamped under solder. Damaged bothsoccket and traces on PCB while struggled with excess solder cleanup.

[@fahedkhan3008]

You are a very good analyst. Very good video. Hats off.

[@frankpitochelli6786]

I often use a flux pen, it looks like a felt tip.... you push down on the tip and it soaks the tip....then it's applied to the joint to be soldered, however, for me it doesn't seem to work as well as the paste type fluxes, but it does the job....the syringe type fluxes can be tricky since they tend to glob it out per sae. But, IMO....most fluxes work just as well as the next, alot has to do with soldering techniques as well. Thank you for all the technical video's that you put together, they are alot of work for you tubers...but are very informative.!

[@jamescole3152]

What a great video. I would have never guessed that is how it is done.

[@YardmanRich]

Love the video bro really helpful💯

[@kuro68000]

"No clean" I've yet to find a flux that really is no clean on anything but the simplest boards.

[@rich1051414]

What that means is, 'no longer active when cool'. It will still look like snot crust :P It just won't hurt anything but your eyes.

[@pr0xZen]

While the point is that leaving the residues on there should cause no long term issues, two things to still consider is such: 1. If you _do_ want or need to clean it properly off, it usually will take more work and need solvents, ie not water soluable. 2. If there's a whole lot left on there, it could pose a nuisance or even challenge, for potential future troubleshooting, due to its material properties once all its solvent/suspension content has dissipated, and how it's _relatively_ significantly more work to remove (than water soluable flux). "Clear" ones shouldn't pose issues for visual inspection, but some leave a white residue that can obstruct visual indicators.

[@tookitogo]

​@@rich1051414 More specifically still, it means it's no longer active when cool AND after being fully heated to soldering temperatures once. Many no-clean fluxes are corrosive if they've been partly heated, as happens if you use it to tin stranded wire (where the flux melts and wicks under the insulation as the wire begins to heat, but long before it's reached soldering temperature). I'm running an experiment right now, where I took all the fluxes at work and from home and used them to tin some clear-insulated wire, as well as applying the same flux to another piece of the same wire, but not tinning or heating it all. Only one paste flux (a non-no-clean rosin flux gel) has caused corrosion on the unheated wire, but several no-clean pastes are causing corrosion under the insulation. (Same with some no-clean liquid fluxes.) In essence, most fluxes need to reach a temperature high enough to neutralize them. (The big exception is the water-soluble fluxes, which will remain corrosive no matter what, and thus must be flawlessly removed, making them unusable for things like stranded wire.)

[@zwerne42]

@@tookitogo Hey there. How are the experiments going?

[@WallStreet749]

Love this video thanks for making it.

[@elmariachi5133]

Very great review and explanation!

[@b.w.oostdam8875]

Thank you very much for this very informative video. I have an additional question, is there a UV curing soldering mask ink you would recommend ? I tried one but either the UV_light did not do well (sunlight did not help) or the ink is not ok. Maybe I should have thoroughly shaken the capsule before use ? I tried to repair some minute traces and pads with it, without much success Yhank you very much for all te informative videos

[@japonicaren]

What type of solder did you use? Lead free? That's probably a good video topic of you haven't covered that yet. Temperatures and extra caution with lead free reflow timing etc.

[@hifiguy77]

Excellent presentation form and content! Thank you!

[@javierferrerL]

Hi there, goodflux comparision in a vídeo. Please confirm me, the sort of flux you explain on video, is it the recomendation from best to worse flux? Regards

[@Josh.Davidson]

Very good video. My (genuine) Amtech NC-559-V2-TF comes out a little more tacky then the one in the video though, which I found interesting.

[@BaronVonBeef]

Just ordered some of the banggood yellow flux paste because of this video

[@hadiffnazhan862]

that cheap "NT" branded soldering paste was surprisingly good, around 2 dollars for 50g here in malaysia

[@pedroborges5203]

good, of the flux you tested and showed in the video which is the best flux to use ?

[@cihanbozkir]

Thanks a lot for the review. What do you use for placing the IC on? I need something like that which is heat resistant and I can solder on.

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

I'm guessing people recommend Amtech flux because Louis uses it.

[@docferringer]

Yeah, though Louis says Amtech doesn't sell in on Amazon, so the stuff on eBay and Amazon is fake chinese stuff. YMMV

[@technicalgujarati8251]

He is God of macbook

[@jamesmurphy449]

@@docferringer Everything electronic on Amazon is fake.

[@Aethelbeorn]

@@jamesmurphy449 Just bought a Rigol 1257Z. It's real.

[@optimizelogicrepair2784]

@@Aethelbeorn same, I bought my Rigol DP832 from Amazon. Granted the seller was TEquipment, but I digress.

[@django1364]

very interesting nice video, what your opinions on flux pens, how much of a difference are they?

[@wartlme]

Glad I found the video. This reminds me of "Project Farm" but for electronics. Just an honest review of products.

[@HappyHands.]

Thank You for doing this comparison

[@TheServeTech]

Thanks this is amazing comparison 👍

[@sammccormick1]

I got some of the Chinese flux, which is very sticky and seems to be based on a type of paraffin wax. I mixed it with some (15% ish) mineral oil (corn oil in my case) and achieved a soft butter-like consistency that allows it to be loaded into a syringe, It performed the same as in the video however it was much easier to handle coming from a syringe. I used a 1mm metal tip on the syringe. Cost for 10 cc was approx $0.85 (115cc of flux cost $11 inc delivery). I am sure other types of mineral oil will produce similar results.

[@Voidsworn]

I ended up getting 5 tubs of the NT pretty cheap, like $12 and change. Still trying to figure out WHAT it is exactly. It just smells like some kind of wax/paraffin when heated and leaves a greasy residue that doesn't really clean off easily with IPA. I have a feeling it is less a flux and more just a heat transfer medium. I mean, it works for some SMT rework.

[@rectify2003]

Brilliant review

[@anthonyperaro9336]

great information and many products displayed

[@JohnnyG1956]

It would be interesting to see the winners compared to a DIY rosin/alcohol/glycerin mix. Maybe mixed 50/50 and 82/20, with and without glycerin.

[@timbiddulph]

Genuinely useful video, thanks!

[@MaqsoodAlamShafiq]

Much needed comparison. Thanks you very much.

[@pedroborges2672]

Good, what is the best flux of those that are in the video to use ?

[@CarlosMartinez-px9xo]

Hi, awesome video! I'm from Latin America and I've seen many weird fluxes. Some can ruin a board, like when liquid amber flux dripped on a hard drive and dissolved the copper. Sadly, I didn't see it for a month or two, so it was too late. I suggest trying a good board and switching pads between isolated and connected ones. This can act as a heatsink, change the performance, and show more differences between the fluxes.

[@bobtronic73]

Thanks for doing this comparison.

[@mrmaxgain]

Good video and very informative.

[@joshm264]

I'm really impressed by that big tub of banggood flux, might order some!

[@Voidsworn]

I bought like 4 or 5 tubs. I am not sure what is in it but it seems to me to be nothing more than some kind of wax? It doesn't smell bad, smells mildly like candle wax and leaves an oily coating. I wonder if it mostly just a heat transfer medium, not really am oxide remover.

[@MAKAWELI187]

Great video, and reading the comments also was informative thx for that as well guys, great questions to ask. So when some of you mentioned ultrasonic cleaning, is that in tap water or..? I'm not feeling well about putting electronics in water at all.

[@miko8732]

It's usually in isopropyl alcohol

[@connormccarter9581]

This was an excellent comparison and some of the nicest fine pin soldering I have yet seen! I had a question or maybe a future experiment. Have you considered dipping the legs into any of the fluxes as a possibly cleaner application method? Thank you.

[@kevinbaker2470]

Don't think any professional is gonna be that stingy with their flux. In the grand scheme of things flux is cheap. Vif you have a pcb that has alot of nooks and crannys you're afraid of leaving behind some flux you might have missed, use a clear flux, or one that has a low rosin content. Also keep some 99% IPA or electrical parts cleaner for fast clean up