Seaming Reverse Stockinette (purl side) Using Mattress Stitch // Technique Tuesday

This video demonstrates how to seam reverse stockinette fabric using mattress stitch, maintaining stitch pattern continuity across the seam line. The figure-8 join is demonstrated on a swatch, as is the process for seaming. In addition, seaming is demonstrated on a sweater sleeve.
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To jump directly to a specific point in the video, click on the adjacent time stamp links.
Introduction: 0:00
What do mattress stitch (vertical) seams look like? 0:39
The figure-8 join: 1:39
Reverse stockinette seaming process: 3:40
Reseaming an old Aran sweater: 8:18
Tips for seaming: 11:24
What's going to happen with the old sweater: 13:02
If you have questions about this video, or suggestions for future videos, please let me know down in the comments or on social media.
Facebook: / roxknits
Twitter: / roxmpls
Rox Rocks Ravelry group: www.ravelry.com...

[@sehopkins88]

Excellent. I have watched many seaming videos and this the best by far.

[@anastasiapavitch7789]

Thank you for showing us all this, I had not learned how to seam the garter stitch, and match it row to row. This is the first video that taught me that. I have seen the seaming of stockinette, but not garter. Glad I know now.

[@46Thesimand]

Glad I found your instructions, and particularly appreciated your reference to smiley and frowny face! Hadn't made a sweater needing this kind of seaming in many years and the current one is in a smooth, DK-Fingering weight cotton, therefore "tattling" on a less than perfect seam. Thank you!

[@michaelavictoria1]

I'm always delighted when I google a knitting question and see that you've made a video about it!!! Your explanations are the best!

[@evcim02]

You always have videos about whatever problem i have when knitting. Thank you so much for these wonderful videos that you share your knowledge with us.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

You are so welcome!

[@jannetswanquist9311]

Thank you so much for this easy to understand and follow video! This finishing touch is just what I needed and it turned out wonderful at my very first try ❤. I was amazed at how easy it was once you got going and identified what stitch was the smiley face and top bump. Again, thank you so much, because it’s hard to find someone who can teach you to knit. I don’t have any acquaintances who do, and even if I did find someone, not everyone knits the same, which can make it rather had to find someone that can teach you. I really appreciate this video, and will definitely be looking for more of your videos to add to my knitting skills! I’m so excited! Thank you!

[@gclepine]

I want to thank you very much. I had started a baby sweater 10 years ago and never completed it because the seams that I had whipped stitched were just too bulky. Now, I am going to take the seams apart and follow your instructions? I really appreciate your very helpful instructions! I can’t wait to finally complete this baby sweater because there is another baby in my family and I want to re-do the seams to finally complete it! You give great instructions!

[@kaysimpson4865]

Thank you Roxanne for your very clear instructions.

[@abakers1374]

This helped me so much! I had to seam an edge in the purl section of a ribbed hat. I tried to figure it out myself and it was a mess. I ripped it out and found your video and it's so much nicer now 😊

[@CamilleBarbeau-et3hl]

This is by far the best tutorial I’ve come across on seaming knitted projects. I am a new older 64yr. knitter and you are my go to for learning knitting techniques, so precise! Maybe you can help me out on my flat kitted winter beanie hat in stockinette with 8 knit2tog. decreases in the crown. When I went to join, it was very difficult to find where to join in the decrease section, and when done I ended up losing that beautiful decrease in the seam 😩! I really should learn to knit in the round, and I would have no seam at all to deal with! Thank you so much for sharing your insight into seaming in a decrease line in flat knitted beanies, if any! 🙏🏼

[@jennasimpson5192]

Wonderful tutorial, thank you so much. All your tips are so helpful, I have confidence now to seam like never before!

[@lesliehanna5688]

So glad I subscribed….ty for the clearest demonstration and tips. I was trying to seam a bulky hood with the same yarn….won’t do that again. 😝

[@beckieweber785]

Rox a most wonderful explanation for reverse mattress stitch. And your fingers never hide your work. a marvelous tutorial. Beckie

[@lesliegoldenberg8409]

I was struggling with seaming in reverse stockinette stitch until I found your video. I ripped out my previous attempt & followed your directions. It looks SO much better. Thanks so much for sharing your technique!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I'm so glad it worked for you. I was amazed at the difference the first time I tried it. :-)

[@lesliegoldenberg8409]

I hope you don't mind, but I referenced your video on my Ravelry project page

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Of course not! :-)

[@rosaliedevenish4061]

@@lesliegoldenberg8409 p

[@cloudydaez]

So amazing it’s left such a neat seam on the purl side which is my right side of the garment so happy!

[@8amara]

Excellent tutorial! I do have a question though. If I do use the tail to start the seam, how would I attach the new yarn once my tail runs out?

[@lynnwebster6251]

Thank you, great catalog of tutorials. This really helped me on my project.

[@theanimefan00]

That old sweater is as old as me! :O Now That is quality! Thanx for the seeming tips at the end! Those really helped!

[@JLynnGR]

Thank you so much for your tutorials. They have been a big help.

[@rangvi1956]

Wow fantastic , thank you very much, kind greetings from France 🌺

[@ChenShaham]

Beautiful seams, thank you!

[@jasminey1589]

May I ask how you’d capture two stitches from one side if easing in a shoulder cap for example?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Rather than going down through the center of one stitch and up through the center of its neighbor, you'd come up through the center of the stitch on the other side of the neighboring stitch.

[@ys6392]

Thanks for teaching ❤

[@brittanywilliams1590]

Thank you for this clear advice! I'm finishing up a purse having issues finishing the edge but this video is gonna help me finish it!

[@fionakiaorafromnewzealand258]

Brilliant tips! Thank you so much! Greatly appreciated.

[@pjenkins8206]

Excellent tutorial- thank you.

[@ingridmanning3600]

i would love to see what the seam looks like on the other side (vid7.9)As i want to have the seam showing on the knit side

[@8531022]

I can’t thank you enough. I finally understand where to stitch!

[@margotmccann3429]

another great tutorial, thank you!

[@joanglynn5518]

Loved your video and explanation of seaming the reverse stockinette stitch. How do you seam a set in sleeve with the reverse stockinette. Any chance of doing a video of that?

[@kritimehrotra]

Hi there! Thanks so much for this! You mention a couple of times in the video that the tail is used to "start the seam", which makes total sense to me, but I'm wondering about additional details there. I.e., what happens when you run out of the tail? Do you "join" new yarn as if you were joining in the middle of a project? What about when you finish the seam: do you just weave in the second end? What if you just don't have enough of a tail to start with (or you already weaved it into the project) -- how do you do a seam with a "new" yarn piece?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

When you run out of tail you start with a new length, leaving the old tail and new tail dangling. Wherever the old tail would have been entered the next time, you run the new tail through. When the seam is finished, cross the two tails before weaving them into the seam in opposite directions. If you don't have a starting tail, bring the seaming yarn up through the corner where the tail would have been, and leave 4'' dangling to weave in later, and do the figure-8 from that point on.

[@kritimehrotra]

@ thank you!

[@kritimehrotra]

@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you for the clear and comprehensive response!

[@dichroichameleon]

Your videos are truly invaluable. I can't get over how extremely helpful they are and how they teach things that I don't often see videos for. Your explanations are extremely clear. Do you have a patreon?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I have one sort of half way set up. I got a bit stumped at what to offer at different reward levels. Any suggestions? (It is something I want to get going, and soon!)

[@dichroichameleon]

Roxanne Richardson that's a great question... Maybe patterns at some of the higher levels? Or more in depth explanations beyond what's here? I haven't worked the setting up part of patreon personally, and I don't currently support anyone on patreon, but I'd be happy to do so based on the quality and content of your videos.

[@kmcm406]

Hi, I find your tutorials really helpful, however I have a new problem and I’m unable to find a tutorial to help me. I have completed a child’s jumper where the purl side is the right side but I’m having difficulty setting in the sleeves. I’ve tried mattress stitch but it looks very uneven, I’d be grateful if you’re able to suggest an alternative method of seaming so that I can complete my project.

[@sarahradke9068]

Or do you think there is a better technique I could use I have a few more rows of the stockinette than the garter stitch but they are both the same length so I’m not sure how to make the seam even look even. Thank you

[@suemcarthur105]

thank you for your time

[@despinavassos7865]

Thank you for this very clear video. If my one swatch is a little bigger than the other can I skip a couple of rows? Ive tried to but it didnt work. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Rather than skipping a row, catch 2 rows of loops on the longer edge, and 1 row on the shorter edge.

[@despinavassos7865]

@@RoxanneRichardson okay thank you,.I will try that! 😊

[@claudetteanderson6725]

How did you undone the stiches, I tried on a cardigan that I had made mattress stiches and totally ruined the cardigan. Please help me😥

[@italythroughmyeyes]

You are awesome 🎄😎🌞❄️🌟

[@sarahradke9068]

I’m new to knitting and trying to seam garter stitch block to a stockinette block will this technique work if I do it on the reverse side of the stockinette?

[@ann.m.phillips9126]

Thank you ,

[@ruth2339]

After making the figure 8 at the beginning, the yarn is on the left. Then at the beginning of the next section it appears to be joined to the right side. There is no instruction for that step.

[@Chowder_head]

I really like mattress stitch but when I tried it on a seam my stitches were coming apart why is that? I started right at the edge like you did only I was on knitted side. My whole side fell apart.☹️

[@nancya2490]

When you do the mattress stitch, do you end the same way as you started in thebeginning?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

That depends on what's going on at the other end of the seam. If it's an underarm (which it often is), I'll probably run the tail through the four corners (the two corners from the sleeve and the two from the body) in order to avoid a hole. If it's an exposed bind off edge, I usually run the tail up the center of the last chain of the bind off on the right, and under the two legs of the first chain on the left, and then back down through the center of the chain on the right, in order to create a chain stitch that maintains continuity across the two BO chains. (assuming that both BO chains are moving right to left)

[@nancya2490]

⁠ I am using around loom afghan and I am finished. I am watching this video mattress stitch is this the same to put the panels together or do you have a another video to attach the panels?

[@winningnumbers]

how do I anchor the stitch when starting and ending the seam? please and ty for reply in advance

[@Polina-pp6rl]

Hello! It's very useful! Can I use your video in my tutorial?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

If by "use" it, you mean can you insert a link to the video in a written tutorial, then yes.

[@Polina-pp6rl]

@@RoxanneRichardson yes! thank you very much!

[@Titesoline75]

thanks for that clear explanation. Does this seam works for closing sleeves?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

It works for closing vertical edges, so if you are asking if it can be used to close the long seam of a sleeve from cuff to underarm, then the answer is yes.

[@kolibrisway]

Fantastic. Thank you.

[@notaclue822]

That is great to know. I can't be certain I have the exact same number of rows on my front and back. While knitting, do you need to keep count?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I usually work the first piece to a particular length, then knit the second one to match the row count of the first.

[@aaminahqasimoniwarere2081]

😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍 Thank you!!!!

[@amivice5499]

Such a clear video. Thank you! Also, your old Aran sweater. It looks a lot like a cardigan my Nana had made for my mom. Curious if there’s a pattern?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I have the sweater in my Ravelry Notebook, with a link to the source www.ravelry.com/projects/Rox/design-five-crew-neck-sweater-or-cardigan

[@amivice5499]

Roxanne Richardson Thank you!

[@MLRCSM]

Very helpful! Thank you!

[@lindaalikhan7962]

What’s the best way to seam shaped shoulders in reverse stockinette?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

That depends on how the shoulders were shaped. If they were shaped with a series of bind offs (stair steps), they will need a standard horizontal mattress stitch seam (same as for stockinette). As you tighten the seaming thread, the edges will come together. If they were shaped with short rows, so that all of the sts are still live, you can use a three-needle BO. With a 3NBO, you have a couple of choices about how you want the finished result to look. I have a playlist of videos on 3NBO, and another on seams and joins. I would suggest knitting up some swatches and trying out various approaches to see which result you prefer. There typically is no "best" way of doing something in knitting, merely choices and preferences.

[@mjcareto]

great advice.. thank you

[@TheSaminamirza]

Hello how does one pick up stitch for a button band, on reverse stockinette, hope you will assist asap

[@RoxanneRichardson]

If the reverse stockinette side is the Right Side, then you pick up between the selvedge and 2nd stitch in, just as for picking up if the knit side was the RS.

[@eileentomaro768]

thank you

[@ChaCha-np2he]

Do you have a tutorial on regular mattress stitch?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Not yet -- my plan is to do that for next week's video! :-)

[@Gertieanne]

It is the Timber pattern and you knit one flap and sew on the inside.

[@grandma.p]

Is the matress stitch new? I've never heard of it until a few years ago and I've been knitting for a long, long time.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I haven't been able to pinpoint when it arrived on the knitting technique scene. It doesn't appear to have been used in the 19th century, and probably not often in the first half of the 20th century, if at all. (It's not mentioned in Mary Thomas's famous knitting book, published in 1938.) Vintage patterns, when they specify a seaming technique, tend to indicate backstitch. The 19th century books on "plain needlework" include sections on sewing and seaming garments made from cut cloth, but do not include any special seaming techniques for knitted garments in the section on knitting, which I believe indicates they were using the same techniques for both. Mattress stitch appears in all my knitting books published since I learned to knit in the mid-80s, but not always with the name "mattress stitch." Some books call it "ladder stitch" or "edge-to-edge seaming." Barbara Walker's Knitting From the Top, published in 1972, mentions the various ways knitters seam, as well as the way "most knitting instructors" teach, and then goes on to describe the way she prefers to seam, which is a variation on the way those instructors taught. Walker's method is the technique we know today as mattress stitch. Given the number of contributions she made to the knitting world that have had a lasting impact, I wouldn't be surprised if this was an innovation she came up with. Even though my knitting books demonstrated this technique, I didn't notice it when I learned to knit in 1986, and used backstitch for seaming garments until I was made aware of mattress stitch ten years later. I was learning to use a knitting machine, and the book I had demonstrated the technique. I hadn't looked up how to seam knitted garments before that, because I assumed it was the same as for woven garments.

[@grandma.p]

@@RoxanneRichardson Wow, this is interesting. Do you prefer a knitting machine or hand knitting? I heard that Twiggy (the model) was very proficient on a knitting machine and if she was going to a business meeting and needed something to wear, she could just crank out a dress or a sweater. I've never used a knitting machine and I've never actually seen one except in pictures. Thanks for this information.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Oh, I prefer hand knitting. Machine knitting is a very different process, and removes the hands from direct contact with the fabric, because you're moving a carriage back and forth. It also confines the knitter in the room where the machine is, and isn't portable. It's the same difference as hand-lettering a card vs typing a message on a computer, using a fancy typeface, and laser printing it onto card stock. I just took a closer look at Walker's instructions for seaming, and I see that I misread what she was saying. She actually said that she seamed through the edge stitch (which is a 1/2-stitch mattress stitch), going down through the center of the edge stitch, and then up through the stitch in the row above. A look through a few knitting magazines I have from the 1960s also advocated this method, only in their instructions, instead of coming up through the row above, you come up through the stitch two rows above. I'm still looking for signs of when seaming between sts rather than through sts would have been recommended.

[@Gertieanne]

I have a question. I need to finish my pockets. What is the best way to so them onto the sweater?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

That depends a bit on whether you are sewing the lining to the inside of the sweater, or sewing a patch pocket to the outside of the sweater. Sounds like a great idea for a video!

[@alidarabie4735]

Why do you take do long to show wow

[@woodmouse-71]

So useful, thank you 🙂