SeaQuest DSV fights the RCSubGuy, a Shark-building party and much more!

[@darrenandcarolynoneill2399]

Amazing job Bob the lights and your paint job just incredible.

[@petehewit8228]

Good progress on the Seaquest , couple ideas: make the clear plastic dive planes active and tie them into electronics to maintain level. Steering seems slow cut some vents and build a bow (side) thruster into the underside of the nose.

[@briancook8288]

Hi why not use a water jet unit in your seaquest? They come with a steering nozzle. RCSUBS

[@drakeangelheart]

Easiest way to do that blanc area is with a thermoplastic moulding putty like blue stuff. It's a small block that you heat up in boiling water, when it's soft you just press it on to the object you want to copy. Cool with cold water and the mould is ready.

[@darrenandcarolynoneill2399]

Bob what about adding a clear piece of tubing on to your nozzle that will produce a bit more directional trust . Just like the clear rudder you added to the Nautilus model.

[@johngompf7535]

Back pressure?

[@michiganengineer8621]

I know it's late but, for the SeaQuest DSV model and the "speed dive" symptom, I'd try squeezing in the "tails". Especially for the bottom fin, doing that you may be able to avoid adding the "lifting" fins at the front section. There was a comment last week about coupling the "tails" to the actual control surfaces, that may work as well although it's going to need a LOT of experimenting to find a sweet spot.. Dangit, now I need to hit an online source to watch some Seaquest episodes 🤣🤣🤣

[@franksmodels29]

Very cool 👍🏻👍🏻

[@billyd78]

A prop will move water outward radially as well as back. You need a rubber bellows around the hinged area to force the water only through the nozzle?

[@jamesweist8599]

we got your back bro , rock on from Canada

[@petervonbleichert9688]

Great episode

[@JKinkele]

In regards to the tendency to dive, consider the center of mass. Is all your ballast in the bottom, lower then the center of thrust? Raise the ballast closer to center.

[@RCSubGuy]

Raising ballast would eliminate any form of static stability. Submarines, like all water vessels, need ballast weights low and flotation high in order to create stability and counter torque roll.

[@JKinkele]

True, but I have luck balancing the two needs.

[@GAZZZA19790]

hahahaha That face expression @8:27

[@coast219]

Can Ed post the wiring for the battery relays?

[@richardspicer8253]

Tilting the motor down a few degrees maybe?, just coming from rc plane building

[@theequalizer9154]

I do wish that you were still producing your Seaquest DSV version for customer purchases. I understand though. As well, I have always had an interest in a submarine from a movie called, "Around The World Under The Sea" which starred Lloyd Bridges. The sub was called, "The Hydronaught". I don't know if you've ever seen it. I have been looking for, "The Hydronaught" for a long time now. I've tried to get it printed, but there are no plans of it anywhere to be found. There was one person I believe that made it, located in Argentina. It was 12 inches in length. I think he ceased making it. I wonder if you've ever had a look, I'm most curious.

[@RCSubGuy]

I just looked up the Hydronaught. It's a very very simple design. It would not pose a challenge to model.

[@theequalizer9154]

@@RCSubGuy Thank you for your reply. I just saw it again on Ebay. I think I'm going to pick it up. Rig it up with lighting. Thanks again.

[@schrikeiv]

On Seaquest, I suspect the motor itself may be impeding the flow, you could try moving it forward of the servos (the drive shaft could then be reversed through the mount, lengthened and run between the servos)..........this should remove it from direct flow path.......also as a rule of thumb thrust tubes.......... generally only like a 5-15% flow restriction (on non compression systems)to minimize back-pressure .....especially since flow tubes are not self-contained...............................you might, then even be able to go back to the smaller battery to cut down on forward weight reducing dive tendency. Though I suspect the front "canard" idea to be helpful and have thought about that as well........I had noticed this on your first video and wondered if it might present a problem ....... apologizes for not mentioning this sooner ........I know it would be a more complicated rework........and current adjustments may be sufficient.......... ..........I do think tail surfaces should be hinged and linked in as well though.................I hope this is useful and am looking forward to progress on this and sharks as well............ Did you and your son ever finish his Millennium Falcon build?

[@Spenceley]

Okay, i kind of need to be invited to the next R/C submariner party.

[@RCSubGuy]

If you're around the central Texas area, hit me up by email at [e-mail] to get added to my mailing list!

[@Pinworthy]

You need an impeller, not a propeller

[@RCSubGuy]

Um... no, that's not correct unless I'm mistaken. An impeller is typically used to transfer force from a motor to a fluid in an effort to create centrifugal force to pump a fluid. IE: centrifugal pump. Mayhaps we have our terminology crossed.

[@dogfightdiary5712]

Why do you always look like you're baked? 😁

[@montigobear]

Look up 'eductor'. You accidently created an eductor. Venture effect is pulling water around the jet and blanketing out what little thrust it produces.

[@RCSubGuy]

Perhaps in the initial iteration, but in the final iteration I just uploaded, there is no restriction, which is a required component of an eductor. The passage is constant diameter with a simple propeller in the middle.

[@tecFLY6]

Way of lowest resistance,water can get around da nozzle easyer than thru...creating pressure

[@WatchMan1962]

My least favorite sub

[@RCSubGuy]

Great to know.. I'll post that up on my workboard: "WatchMan1962 likes the SeaQuest the least of all submarines."