This mirror is 100 times cheaper than mirrors for cheap solar electricity & thermal energy

[@peterxyz3541]

Teaching the world = saving the world

[@letMeSayThatInIrish]

I downvoted and prepared to leave when I heard the bot voice, but stayed just long enough to see the beginning of the main content. It was great! So I upvoted and even subscribed. Please avoid using bot voices, since there is so much AI garbage on youtube already. I don't need to hear perfect English, just be human please 😊

[@gochaabashia9906]

I absolutely agree with you, the superficial attitude of the Russians towards the case is obvious

[@danielheckel2755]

Check his other videos to listen to his English. The bot is Best.

[@eveadame1059]

The person making this video might not speak English. And the Bot AI is Translated from his own language

[@Stroopwaffe1]

Seems a bit rash.

[@rustyshackelford1413]

The original video, from @NightHawklnNight, doesn't use ai. He started with the spray foam but ended up using fiberglass.

[@atlastobin7837]

As an American. I love your Russian / Ukrainian accent. You do not need to use a bot. I am working on my own experiments with cheap reflective films, using fences to build motionless dish with moving receivers for cheap solar heat.

[@PavolFilek]

If you have clouds, your mirror is useless. TOPcon, PERC, PERT, IBC, perovsktes, GaN, CIGS SiaH etc. do not need concentrators. 3 - 4 junction panels, need concentrated energy,.

[@juankitote]

Parece el pueblo de Anatoly 🏋️

[@Akio-fy7ep]

I would like to see results with a simple, stiff hollow cylinder, say 0.5m diameter and 10 cm deep, with airtight back and reflective film stretched over the front edge and glued, and then air pumped out of the cavity. The internal vacuum would curve the film to mathematical precision limited only by the flatness of the cylinder edge. I don't know whether it would tend to a spherical, parabolic, hyperbolic, catenary, or other curve, but with a small enough deflection the difference from an ideal parabolic curve would not matter much.

[@anwarahmed7618]

Please advise how to contact you

[@galimir]

sounds more like Polish

[@reypolice5231]

I think that you may want to reverse your process as follows, 1. Make circular frame, and tack on the reflection film, 2. " Top down effect" by pouring water into frame to achieve the curve in the film, 3. Use aircrete ( cement with soap bubbles) instead of foam, as the backing, 4. Place Air Crete under the curve made by water ( spray glue may be needed on the film to make it stick to the Air Crete, Green power science did this with wayer and clear plastic to make a large parabola curves,

[@shahbazfawbush]

Great idea!

[@rameshpatel-kw3xb]

👍😶

[@boomer_29bc49]

Nice idea

[@rajan.nadella]

I think ur correct. Need a try

[@L6FT]

Any links or pictures of such a construction?

[@Andy-df5fj]

1) Obtain a round satellite dish. 2) Make the back of the dish rough. (Glued on sandpaper strips should work) 3) Use the course dish to carve out the parabolic shape into a piece of rigid foam board. (A machine to spin the disc at a reasonable speed would be ideal). 4) Apply spray adhesive to the carved out foam board. 5) Stretch the mylar tight over foam board and then use the satellite dish to press it uniformly into the foam board cavity.

[@Humbulla93]

or just spray tollens reagent on the roughed satellite dish more durable higher reflectivity and easier to apply

[@sailaway8244]

Why not heat a square meter of 3mm upvc sheet over the sat dish , once cool it should adopt the shape of the dish and then attach the film ?

[@tomleech9753]

Home vacuum forming has really become very accessible.

[@tomleech9753]

Ok, but you're trying to make 1 solid mirror, and to make it from a sheet of mylar that doesn't want to stretch. If you're looking to make a focused point of light, that is say 3 inches, then if you simply make a frame that holds flat 3" mirrors that are hex shaped, then you can make the same mirror, but can replace individual mirror modules as needed from a mylar blanket such as you've shown. Additionally, each hex module can actually protect the mylar film, without adding significantly to the cost. Glass, or acrylic, etc, two piece units, where the reflective material is sandwiched inside. Individual reflectors could be replaced instead of rebuilding the entire reflector and because they use a hex lattice, they can be scaled as large as you want if you add more modules to the frame.

[@CraigLandsberg-lk1ep]

Just buy cheap magnifying mirrors for less than $10😅

[@tomleech9753]

@@CraigLandsberg-lk1ep Yeah? JUST $10 USD? You know a large amount of the global population lives on less than $2 a day. WTF are you even doing here?

[@SIVIK21]

Идея неплохая)

[@hardwareful]

Hello Sergiy, love your work and want to build a rotating table on which paraboloids can be cast from plaster or concrete. I imagine one can make a concave paraboloid, in it a convex paraboloid, and use both as a heavy mold. A foil bag can be put in between them when they are spaced apart by 2-5 cm, and PU foam can be put in the bag. Then the foam will expand to fill the gap and exactly reproduce the shape.

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Pretty good idea.

[@ssteele1812]

Spun aluminum or copper could be made in the same shape and polished to a high reflection then coated to prevent oxidation. When the coating degrades, you remove it, polish and coat again.

[@yablainc]

love this guy! i'm so glad he is still posting and in good health

[@PezDJ]

I saw someone make a mirror like that, they made a hole in the little of their disc shape and then used vacuum to pull back the film into the concave shape and thus sticking to the glue. Now I don't know how the styrofoam might stand up to vacuum. Mut it might be something to look into! Hope it helps!

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

I agree: I prefer your natural voice, rather than the bot. You are making good progress. I am not sure why you are focusing on circular mirrors, rather than linear mirrors, because you can hotwire rigid foam with CAD created parabolic templates very accurately, and hopefully create a very fine focus.

[@BornFreeFilms]

Could you do a video on a complete system? The mirror to heat the oil line or whatever to go through a diy generator that would change the heat to electricity to run 100 to 200 watts of appliances? I love your idea for solar mirrors. Edit: I can see how the oil would go through a heat radiator to heat, but would like electricity too.

[@Suavache]

Solar energy is invaluable if we know how to use it. Great video, thank you

[@blockerman3d266]

The youtuber who made the failed mirror looked like nighthawkinlight. He's a fantastic content maker. Worth a look.

[@Nocare89]

I have an idea. Have a hole in the center. Have foam/glue on the perimeter and around the hole, with a gap for airflow. Vacuum out all the air and hold that until the glue sets. I think if you did this with something like plexiglass shaped desirably it will be fairly cheap and easy to reproduce as well as a more durable.

[@herseem]

I really value your videos because you focus so much on the cost / benefit ratio. One thing I've been interested in for quite some time, but not really done a lot of experiments in this area, is to create your own water-resistant / proof foam. I don't mean expanding foam like the polyeurathane foam, I mean something like creating a foam from glue that dries out and leaves the foam in place, similar to the foam you can create with washing up llquid, but where it dries in place and stays there. Also, what about using polystyrene foam but using something like a cheap, large CNC machine carve the surface of the foam into the shape you want? And then spraying the surface with glue, and expanding the film onto the surface? Ideally, what you want is a kind of fine grain, reticulated foam made from a rigid material where you can spray the surface with glue, and then expand the film onto it using air pressure, so that it all touches the surface of the rigid foam at the same time everywhere, and that would be both light, rigid and relatively cheap.

[@Calligraphybooster]

How about saturating a piece of polyether foam with a slightly diluted pva glue and giving that the parabolic shape using the inflation method?

[@jamest.5001]

What about using pieces of bamboo? Split a bamboo into 4-8 sections with the mirror film glued to the inside of 75-100+ mm diameter bits of bamboo a meter long if more or less. Depending on what is required . Another idea is using air to make the dish like in the video, only use fiberglass on the film glued on first. Then add air. Attachment points can be add to the back side. Use a thin fiberglass and resin roll it on. Add air before it sets up. Even paper, cloth many things can also be used. Not really worth carbon fiber, but cotton cloth synthetic cloth or silk pre Made fiberglass attachment points can be made and glued on with resin. I would love to build a 1kw steam engine generator powered by the sun. Then maybe use propane, methanol, CNG, something with a low boiling temperature. To replace water. Maybe a mixture , propane and methanol possibly. Or CNG and methanol gasoline and propane, gasoline and CNG, the difficult part may be getting it to return to a liquid. Maybe a small refrigerant compressor can be ran at the same time as the generator. Used in short cycles to chill the gas to liquid to start the cycle over again. A pump pumping liquid through the boiler. A iron block with passages through it. For liquid And a area for gasses to collect and be heated just before the engine request it. Heat the gas well into the boiling point , and use a similar cooper or brass block with refrigerant passages chill, the gas to liquid to be stored until needed. It would be awesome if was effiecent was enough to use thermal electrics to make it work..

[@kevinmatthews2620]

just a thought, Sergiy can you make a exact opposite of the satillite dish and sandwich the polysterene and mirror when glued in between the 2 satellite dishes and place them in a vacuum bag and remove all of the air thus forcing the polysterene and reflective film together possibly with a smoother finish, if you are trying this method, try using contact adhesive(rubber based) instead of expanding foam this might help in the smoothness of the finished product, i just realised when typing you dont need a negative satellite dish just 2 the same size to sandwich the polysterene between getting the polysterence smooth on the side where the reflective foil is going to be will be tricky,but hopefully the vacuum bag trick will work, i would also look into whether when in a vacuum bag any steps you might need to take to prevent slippage of the mould before the glue is solid, but under vacuum that might not happen, who knows ?? good luck Sergiy :) :)

[@TheLuftiguz]

Sergiy please do your own voice it is much more pleasant to hear. Keep up the good work! You inspired me to create solar water heater from an old Litho Light Table scraped by printing-house. It is working flawlessly for last two years. All summer I have more than enough hot water. It has dual purpose -Glass table on terrace and hot water heater. Thank you for being an inspiration.

[@misterbulger]

Pretty smart! As a roofer I am usually asked to remove old satellite dishes and I could collect quite a few of them. I wonder if I could polish one to a mirror finish? Or cover with that film

[@Getoverhere666]

Дорогой Сергей! Я очень рад, что Вы живы и здоровы!

[@intellectualcat4000]

Поддерживаю👍

[@BB-sm8ey]

Also: if you use foam intended for fitting windows/doors you'll find it is manufactured to expand less aggressively and more slowly. It spreads the force more equally.

[@ikademi73]

I really appreciate your efforts. Keep up the good work, Mr. Sergiy.

[@braxtonperry1981]

Glue , balloon and form 👍

[@davesanders9203]

Need a really big baloon. And the balloon doesn't provide the necessary strenght. Still a good idea.

[@shahbazfawbush]

How about using two satellite dishes to form the foam between them?

[@sMVshortMusicVideos]

Can you focus all the energy on a Solar cell to get more than you would across surface area? I think so but haven't tested.

[@atlastobin7837]

What type of acrylic glue do you use to glue the mylar to the polystyrene? I need to know. I have been working on my own experiments and failing because the glues I have tried eat away at the polystyrene plastic. Is there a brand that you have used? If it is a European company I can look up the active ingredients. What type of glue?

[@artmaknev3738]

Isn't it cheaper to buy a bunch of second hand unused satellite dishs and glue the reflective surface to them? But this research is very interesting!

[@Artificial_Incompetence_Bot]

i think it's probably cheaper to just buy matches if you want to burn down your house.

[@DeeP_BosE]

what is the material of the reflective sheet ? Can it make a strong bond with the foam ?

[@MrBrianms]

When foam cures heat distorts the film. Have you tried concentric hoops holding the film slightly above the foam?

[@LandMineFX]

I wonder if, instead of trying to get the film into a concave mold, if it would make more sense to put the film on a flat square, and cut the film and backing into little non-Euclidean, rounded squares or hexagons, and then shape those into a concave surface. More labor intensive, but my thinking is that the non-Euclidean squares/hex patterns should more easily conform to the concave shape

[@robertweekley5926]

I wonder if a Simple Water Thinned PVA Glue, spray Applied to your First "Inflated" example, in 4-5 discrete "Built Up Layers", would cause the Least Distortion on the Surface, and provide a starting point with enough Stiffness, that the Spray Foam simply provides additional Stability, Strength, and Durability of your Mirror, without Causing Surface Distortion?

[@prashantkuyre3521]

Loved this idea and your zeal for a cheap solar mirror. To assist you in your endeavor, I would suggest rather than applying foam/glue, use vacuum. Build a metal cuboid with two square surfaces and depth more than depth of the dish required with all edges welded air tight. Coat the edges with some paint so that it remain air-tight. Drill a circle of required diameter on one square side. On back side of it drill a small hole and insert a metal tube in it and weld it in place. Paste a reflective film on the front side. After the film is stuck tight, start sucking air from the tube on back side. As air is sucked out it will form a perfect concave dish without any folds or wrinkle on the sheet. Close the back side tube with pin. The air tight ness of the sheet as well as box matters most here. The smoothness of circular hole also matters most. Please try and let us know. All the best.

[@RovinTan]

So you have a heat ray, how do you convert that into electricity?

[@TheReaderOnTheWall]

Is the focus not too close? I'd assume you'd want more mirrors, from further away, all focusing on one heat conductor that goes to your water or generator.

[@pperrinuk]

I have been inspired by your research and have done some of my own. I have seen that some companies put their mirrors in green houses (glass houses), so for a slight drop in light they can use very flimsy mirrors that don't even need cleaning. Have you considered such an approach?

[@Tcg8136]

Why don't you just apply air pressure at the last stage while the mold is wet and let it dry? You would achieve perfect slope.

[@TriangleSoftDhaka]

Amazing. Please let me know on the idea on how to bring the concave shape to the EPS and also if I can laser cut the small mirrors onto the dish, EPS dish. For cooking rice.

[@dandupaysdegex]

Polyurethane foam expands because it reacts with moisture. You should spray some on a peace of cardboard and spray it with some water. This will cause the foam to expand immediately. You then scoop it up and place it in the mold. Not only will you get minimal expansion during setting, but your panels will also be much lighter because the foam is fully expanded. I saw an artist use this technique to make foam statues.

[@VeniceInventors]

Could you use hot glue to smooth out the surface behind the mirror, or would that be too hot and damage the mylar film? I'm thinking that if you heat up the dish you can melt the glue behind the mirror to form a very smooth backing, and when the film needs to be replaced you can warm it up again to soften the glue and pull the film off.

[@crapthisisalongusern]

Another way you could build a cheap and easy pattern out of foam then suspend a router from a string/steel wire from a point above the pattern. You could then work it back and forth and it would create a concave shape then from that point you could cover the concave pattern with plastic film, then fill in the concave shape to create a large positive convex pattern that you could then sandwich the Myler and some expanding foam to build a concave mirror.

[@richspillman4191]

That would create a spherical shape, a parabola is more efficient, either by deepening the center, flattening the mid ring, or a combination of both, like a telescope mirror.

[@homeremedies4853]

Great, Have tried with aircrete ? ( Sand, cement and plenty of air bubbles ).

[@dennisking8892]

Have you tried wet sand, cut out half of the profile that you want and from the center use it as a compass, paper-mache might be a good alternative to foam

[@totherarf]

Sergiy ...... I am not sure weather or not you read the comments, but just in case I have an idea to improve the wrinkles out of your mirrors. You show a video of gluing a circle and inflating the film with a pump. This seems a good way to produce a parabolic surface. Why not coat the pumped up surface with a thin layer of an epoxy resin? That would give you a clean flat and stronger surface that you could then eather add more epoxy to give a complete mirror or use your expanding foam to bulk up the back of the mirror! I think the relative expense of epoxy v foam would mean a thin layer of epoxy to stop wrinkles and then foam would be the cheapest way. This also has the advantage of being fairly easily scaleable to fairly large surfaces. A similar technique could be used to produce linear parabolic mirrors like those seen in power plants. Obviously it would need a mould but instead of inflating it you would only need to glue the ends and stretch them apart slightly to give a taught surface to apply the epoxy to. All the best.

[@macrumpton]

If you used a heat shrink film like is used for model making and sealed it to a thin flat foam disk, the shrinking should make the disk bend into a dish. It might be a problem getting it to shrink evenly, but a couple of shaped wood spars could keep it from becoming a mirrored potato chip.

[@myspacemodulator]

Another problem is if the film stretches more in places than others, affecting the rates of cooling and varying the thickness of areas not stretched the same or cooled the same I would suggest using several of the ideas from these comments various ways to find the sweet spot, but definitely vacuum sealing mylar down onto an upside down satellite or other parabolic form, and maybe not using expanding foam, but a simple glue like an adhesive spray, one that doesn't expand or contract after applied or when drying. Letting it dry in the mold while having the mirror to be made sandwiched between 2 sat dishes clamped together and or vac sealed. Anothet idea is finding the exact temp at which mylar becomes pliable enough to form fit into place and using air that temperature on the concave side of the mirror to heat blow the film to the mirror backing sporting a thin non expanding adhesive spray that can be applied evenly Someone mentioned using water to form the parabolic shape using gravity, and I think that's a great idea, especially if you can use water warm enough to make the mylar somewhat maleable, and this is assuming of course that you have already considered how much mylar would contract once again upon cooling; you've already seen how the defects form not long after the mirror is finished, it shouldn't take too much observation and trial and error to find the sweet spot, but you mush also remember that the mirror, the whole thing, is in sunlight daily if the weather permits, and constant heating and cooling of the materials degrades them over time, not just wind and rain damagr to worry about. A simple wire or plastic mesh or some window screen inside your foam or on its backing would add structure, but id say backing each panel or mirror with a single fiberglass layer would make the whole structure much sturdier, and when replacing the reflective surface, the parabolic shape would stay the same the whole life of the device and be easy to strip and re film when the time comes, and this fiberglass or even thin molded PVC sheets would give you the most excellent way of fastening each mirror or panel to whatever frame you are using, like with plastic molly bits along the edge or at the corners, with plastic screws or bolts or better yet, plastic wingnut/bolt combos that have deep and angled threads fastening them to the frame

[@Humbulla93]

@@myspacemodulator or spray tollens reagent on it, no creases, easy application, and silver has the highest reflectivity of 95%, it doesn´t oxidize, so you have a long durability

[@badluckk610]

Not sure how you would keep the shape perfectly concave, but maybe you could shape the foam after it’s already dried. If you drill a small hole in the base and attach a vacuum pump you could just apply adhesive to the inside, lay the sheet over the foam after it’s been shaped and let the vacuum pull it to the shape of the mirror. Kind of like using the bike pump but reverse

[@clive4500]

You need to spray the back of it with spray mount basically a contact adhesive first then wait about 20 minutes and start spraying it with a filler paint probably about 3 or 4 coats.. the idea of greymouth is to stick to the reflective surface and the paint will make a hard surface you can then use spray foam which should not distort the mirror as it.. there may be something more suitable than paint which is harder but that you will have to experiment with

[@AutoNomades]

Hello ! Have you seen on youtube how peopes does big cement flower pots with a sand mold shaped with a rotative spade ? Maybe make that, then you got a cement matrix to make dozens of them, thinner than with foam, reinforced with some clothes sunk into it. For the reflective material, I can't see less interesting than thin stainless steel sheet. It is more expensive, but you haven't to throw it to landfill and make new one every years. Wish you to be safe and happy, cheer !

[@headsupfiction8582]

I always a fan of DYI death rays but, what’s the point of this outside of creating a death ray? Where is the solar energy part?

[@think2086]

What comes to mind are colanders. Some of them are already paraboloid shaped and they have holes in them so you can heat the film and then vacuum form it directly onto the inner surface of the colander. There must exist massive colanders for industrial processes that are massive. If you got one of those, you could have a giant mirror. But the smaller ones can be very cheap if plastic. That, however, would make it harder to reuse the colander and the entire mirror would be thrown out after a couple years. If you used metal, it would be more expensive but you could replace the film more easily by simply stripping it or dissolving it and it would hold its shape better during its life.

[@DanielScholtus]

Shouln't you be able to do a single radial V cut to remove the excess overlapping material that causes the ridges?

[@DanielScholtus]

To avoid becoming a cone, you could have the arms of the V cut be curved

[@mochouinard]

I know it more expensive and not as durable, but how efficient would be a version that is either have a glass in front (I guess it will filter certain spectrum), and use the air pressure technique to get the perfect form ? OR use the reverse, a vacuum on the back of it so there is no glass in front. You could change the pressure to test different form.

[@dennissorensen8765]

Sergyi! Look into these topics to solve your problem: 1: AirCrete - Lightweight, foamed cement/lime. 2: large pottery making with sand/rotating templates and pouring concrete. I think you can solve it like that and get much stronger, and still very light mirrors. 😊👍

[@richspillman4191]

Like spin casting to get a parabolic shape?

[@andyvonbourske6405]

instead of using expanding foam that will always give a rough surface. you could try epoxy with a little isopropanol alcohol to thin it out so it could make a thin layer of nearly glass like smoothness then once hard you could add the spray foam for added support . it would be a little more expensive and time consuming but it could potentially give you flawless results

[@Andreas_XxX]

Kann man die Folie über ein Kreis spannen und dann Wasser darauf legen? So das sich eine linse bildet. Anschließend könnte man doch vielleicht mit einem Brenner von unten die Falten aus der Folie ziehen.

[@schabanow]

Instead of polyurethane foam, to begin with, you can cover your inflated film bubble with epoxy resin of proper consistency for soft brushing. Try thin milled vermiculite from garden store as a thickening agent. In order to assure from overspreading, give some slow rotation to a base for a while, the rotation axis is slightly inclined from the vertical, about 5 .. 10 deg. Once epoxy layer is cured, apply ordinary foam in a way that was shown in your video.

[@johnslugger]

*You should have used fast-curing ultra light weight plaster on the first Air-pressure formed mold and it would have been successful. Also plaster lasts for 400 years in sunlight and the outside elements.*

[@ralanham76]

Can you reapply a fresh reflective coating on the same base once it needs it ?

[@Chaos_God_of_Fate]

Done right, I believe this is the most efficient form Solar Power. Some Day I want to setup a larger one of these that boils water to drive a steam motor, and so- produce electricity. Another really cheap way DIY Solar system (though a bit more expensive) is with black piping (can even spray the pipe black with spray paint if it's not already black), then pump water through it, if it is long enough it should boil and you can run a steam motor the same way, and get hot water at the same time. Nice video! Just a tip- maybe don't use a bot voice in the beginning, it might drive People away before they give the video a chance.

[@BinaryAll]

Hi Mr.... Sergyi What is the reflective material Used here...? What is the thickness Material Used......??

[@vanniyo8988]

There are multiple ways you can make a parabolic shaped dish. 1. Use a resin and spin it around. The resin will turn into a dish shape from centrifugal force. 2. Take a piece of wood and turn it just like how wooden bowls are made. Or even by carving. 3. 3d prin parts and put them together. As for adding a mirror polish; there are mirror sprays that could work.

[@ganjamaniakkowalski7884]

How about minimal cuts on the corrupted areas, because they look stretched too hard, or minimising the amount of polyurethane foam on those areas, because they look like stretched during the hardening process, or making some point holes to let them expand and fix the tiny flaws on the surface with some silver paint

[@2DReanimation]

Perhaps wood glue + cloth fabric or fiber glass? Wood glue has a certain softness for a time after solidifying, so even if you have wrinkles, you may be able to smooth them out by hand.

[@Challeen]

I have found that chrome car wrap on the back of an old sign or on a dish works and supposed to last 3 years outside

[@Chainrayen]

Mmm how about applying heat? It may help smooth out the imperfections.

[@idrisabdi1397]

Mr Sergey, Thank you. this is a very useful idea

[@rogierdikkes]

Why not use epoxy instead of foam?

[@drmartinbartos]

Absolutely - and add a little bit of fibrous mesh.. then link that layer to some backing structure if needed. I think the problem with the original use of foam was that, being a bit compressible itself, it was insufficiently stiffening of the film. A lot of adherent substances might be adequate.. frankly maybe some wax and plant fibre might be strong enough (though I suppose there’d be a risk of the wax melting if the film didn’t reflect enough and ambient temperature rose too much.. just trying to think of cheap, readily moulded materials - ideally readily reclaimable or decomposable in event of mirror breakage.

[@unionse7en]

aall good ideas, but remember he has cost targets so that these can be produced by people with very little money around the globe. That makes the design more challenging.

[@intellectualcat4000]

Or clay for ceramics.

[@Null_Experis]

Why not apply a liquid that will cure into a hard rigid shape? Like an epoxy? I'm sure there are epoxies or laquers that can cure without an exothermic reaction that would leave the mylar undamaged.

[@richspillman4191]

Spin casting can create a parabolic shape, better than a sphere, with epoxy...smooth it out and paint it with silver/chrome paint and poof! telescope mirror.

[@QuizmasterLaw]

but how long does reflective film last when exposed to the elements?

[@anoopkumar8957]

Can we use aluminium sheet as reflective surface?

[@ltvtech]

Interesting but won't vehicles wrap with heat gun be more practical be with some cheap plastic abs sheets also heated over dish with heat gun. Just some thoughts

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Next idea: create paraboloid Male CNC mold. Heat reflective mylar in a enclosure, then vacuum form mylar(only) to male mold; then apply backing material, like spray PU in a polyethylene 'bag', with spray adhesive on side to bond to back of mirror material on male mold still, and then vacuum form PE bag to back of mirror, remove from mold.

[@jibberishballr]

How would you use something like this and transfer the energy (E. G. To an inverter)?

[@detroitredneckdetroitredne6674]

Maybe if you were to use a hairdryer or heat gun, you might be able to shrink the plastic sheeting tight. Hello, from Detroit Michigan USA. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. And expertise have a blessed day

[@skyblue5509]

can you heat the Mylar film with heatgun to make it wrinkle free. I was also thinking what if you make a tight membrane then fill with water applying foam from bottom.

[@johnsmith-000]

That's all great, and I've seen your other videos, but I don't quite understand what are you trying to accomplish? If you're just showing individuals how they can do what you do at home, I think that's great. But if you have commercial use in mind, surely you don't expect some mirror plant to be torn down and replaced with the new one every eight months ort so. Now, depending on the location, there are PVC and/or polyester foils which can be vacuumed and don't cost anywhere near the glass mirrors etc. You can check Tech Ingredients channel, if I recall correctly, they have made some panels from that foil, and I think that material might be kind of middle ground which you seem to look for. Spraying polyurethane is also not the cheapest option if done one by one like you did in the video. As far as I could see, you've been testing your mirrors and other stuff on the improvised wooden structures at home? I mean for any commercial use you should also take the real structures into consideration, and probably you'll find out that the mirrors participate in the final price much less than it may seem at a first glance. I'm not criticizing you, on contrary, I think people should take much more interest in things which are surrounding them, and more importantly, are becoming critical factor in our lives, and look for possible solutions to keep expenses at bay. I'm just trying to understand what's your goal with the products you've been showing us in your videos...

[@sergiyyurko8668]

I want to encourage viewers to create several dozen start-ups. 90% of them will go bankrupt, but the remaining 10% will revolutionize the world's energy industry and eliminate the need for fossil fuels. Perhaps I will take part in these start-ups sometime in the future, but now the Ukrainian army is waiting for me

[@atlastobin7837]

@@sergiyyurko8668 I am planning to start a company called STARLIGHT solar which will use fencing materials (ground posts and tension steel wire) to build cheap motionless mirrors, I support your work and will continue it. I want peace in Ukraine more than anything else in the world.

[@atlastobin7837]

@@sergiyyurko8668 what type of acrylic glue bead do you use for the mylar? I am working on building one.

[@atlastobin7837]

@@sergiyyurko8668 I am working on a startup of my own right now for pool heaters.

[@Luke-open-minded-sceptic]

@Sergiy Yurko - Some foams exert no pressure and some exert large amounts. Consider expanding foam which is meant for plasterboard if you want 0 pressure and use pink fire foam for high performance. Tire foam is much more flexible and resistant to crushing.

[@baloog8]

UV breakdown, sand/dust erosion, oxidation/heat, fragility to cleaning, and higj labor cost to repair or replace 50% of them every 3 months. Glass = set it and forget it except cleaning or .1% replacement for 30 years. As an investor, which would you pick?

[@MrSpock-sm3dd]

Mylars are not that fragile they can support many years. Also styrofoam isnt the only option. What about old big antennas? So it's not a question of being an investor more than it is about being an inventor

[@TyaJIeT]

30 years is a little less than the very existence of Ukraine. So, if I were any Ukrainian investor, I would choose the CHEAPEST solution possible, one that can start making a profit in a maximum of 2-3 years. What will happen there in 20-30 years? Who cares?

[@TimAktaev]

Сергей, а что если прижимать пленку к диску обручем для равномерного распределения нагрузки? И еще мне кажется, что первоначальная идея с наполнением воздухом полусферы очень продуктивная, стоит доработать ее. Вариант решения проблемы вижу в повышении давления: - в плоском состоянии наклеить фольгу на толстую ПЭТ-пленку для повышения прочности (или сразу покупать фольгированный ПЭТ-лист) - использовать прижимной круг для усиления контура, препятствующего выходу воздуха при повышенном давлении; он может быть из дерева с плотной резиновой прокладкой в месте прижима к поверхности, а также снабжен 6-8 замками по периметру для равномерного распределения нагрузки. - использовать для наполнения полусферы более мощный насос вплоть до электрического. С радостью бы приложил схематичный чертеж, но ютуб не позволяет, средневековье у него еще))

[@xXKisskerXx]

a few things might help : a heat gun could apply gentle heat to the film during stretching, thus smoothing out those ridges. Secondly a second 'satellite dish' hard smooth surface, covered in something like plastic wrap could provide the ideal shell for weight application - like a sandwich. so you would have 1 dish, sealed and smooth that will have the film applied over it. Stretch the film and apply gentle heat to work out wrinkles and folds, then a thin layer of foam (which may have better solutions in the future), then a second dish, which is sealed and smoothed on the inside with a layer of plastic wrap if needed to keep the foam from sticking to it. apply clamps or weight as needed, wait until the foam is cured, then remove everything. This should make a more uniform 'bowl' dish shape, smooth and focus easier.

[@Dioni-y9j]

У меня вопрос!-Что мешает приклеить клеем этот survival blanket к спутниковой антене?Ну на пример водой с мылом как на стёкла автомобилей плёнку клеят?

[@orangejerkorange4815]

How abou buying the thinnest stainless sheets you can find?

[@AmjadMiandad]

Thats a great effot, for a layman like myself how do you attach cables to it so that the electricity it produces can be trasnferred to batteries or direct use. I mean if I make this whats the next process?

[@nick9323]

What about thin stainless steel plate that u just repolish from time to time ?

[@levprotter1231]

Have you tried Robert Murray Smith's approach with graphite parabolic mirrors? I think he got the technique from some Japanese paper.

[@avtomatk6506]

How about sticking several layers of reflective paper to avoid the appearance of wrinkles?

[@intellectualcat4000]

It is easier to make incisions in the place of folds than to stretch the foil.

[@Misterslye]

Paint it black to avsorb more heat?

[@replikvltyoutube3727]

I think you should try vibrating dish during the foam setting. It may help with more uniform coverage and reduce wrinkles. That's a nice project cheers

[@cimishpk]

Hello Sergiy, excellent work, I suggest you also experiment with Mirror Spray Paint.

[@myspacemodulator]

Might not be as cost efficient and more likely also not as reflective, in fact, for reflectiveness, chrome would be idea except the weight and the hazards from working with it. Mylar probably is the best way to go all around as long as there is a way of preventing the defects and wrinkles and such

[@himanshuk177]

The most important factor of being lightweight is that it can be controlled by a rotating small, very small motor so that it can be directed by the sun's movement from east to west. I qas thinking of connecting nxn panels in a frame with motor in the centre and the sheet on top of it. Concentrated plant can produce thousands of degree celsius of thermal energy. All the large industries can make use of this instead of furnace. Ps: special construction required.

[@TurkeyFamily]

My concern is how to harvest the heat after focused?

[@ivanvalentin4832]

Oil heating

[@nickrobertson9533]

Maybe using your horizontal trough design but vertically, and put many in an arc pattern so that through the day certain mirrors would hit the focal point. Doing this you could mount the mirror very secure for the high winds and no moving parts. Also the rectangle troughs seem to be easier to construct.

[@user-lb3nv4lk9u]

Please, speak with your own voice. Listening to a human that speaks with emotion and intonation is much easier and better than listening to a text-to-speech generated voice. Do not worry about people not understanding you -- subtitles that you create by hand are really helpful.

[@zorezaza8016]

You need to go back to the point where you applied air to the reflective sheet. Then you use either epoxy or similier hardner to paint over the bubbled sheet. Once that drys you can then use the foam. They will solve your problem and allow it to be reflective with out the rinkles.

[@Chaos_God_of_Fate]

I wonder, if you use the method that youtuber did to create a bubble, take a sacrificial space blanket, expand it the same way and use that to make a fiber glass mold- once you get a perfect mold you can make a negative to be able to easily replicate it. Once the Fiber Glass has dried/hardened you clean it up, get rid of any of the sticking first space blanket. Then now that you have the mold sand it to get it nice and smooth. You could then use something like spray adhesive to get a nice thin even layer and expand another one of those space blankets with the mold over it. I think with some trial and error you could even make a reasonable telescope mirror that way- nearly perfectly smooth. It'd probably need some kind of reinforcement to keep it's shape or just use many layers of fiber glass. And if it's Fiber glass, it should stand up to weather pretty well and you can probably refurbish it many times. Kinda makes me want to try it!

[@AegisPupus]

I think you should investigate if you can make a concave lens with wet plaster of paris and a turn table.

[@piotrdrazkowski2759]

How many watts i can get from 1 meter wide panel like you have in full sun per hour?

[@justgivemethetruth]

Can you break up the polyustyrene foam into particles and spray it on more evenly? Like the machines they used to texture ceilings in houses?

[@geomorillo]

Why dont you use epoxy resin instead?