Servicing The Haydon Motor for AR XA/XB Acoustic Research Turntables

[@GinadeGoeij]

Hello, I have seen your service video abaout AR XB Turntable. Verry clear I have the same problem with my AR XB 1 Turtable. The motor doesnt work and I have taken the motor out and also the cap of the motor, but i dare not make it further with the Hammer. I s it possible that you repair it? I am a Dutchman and live in Germany. I only can send you the electricity parts and pully. How do you know that the motor is broken? I can send you some foto's if you like. thank you for your presentation! greetings from Rob😀

[@elvisandmick]

Great post. Thanks for the video and the commentary/information!

[@vintageboulton]

Your welcome, glad you liked it 😊

[@kingkongz88]

Thank you

[@scottgilmour8392]

Excellent exhibition of percussive maintenance. I had most of (we'll get to that) an AR-77XB land on my bench a couple of days ago, for some light maitenance and a new power lead (Aust standard). As I was drawing up a diagram of the existing wiring so I could rebuild it into a 4 way screw teminal strip (note to self: must go to #NOT SPONSOREDings and get more), I noticed the 115VAC and 60Hz markings on the Haydon motor?!?! FTW?!?!?! I'm putting a lead on it, so it can be plugged into a 240VAC, 50Hz supply!!! Asked the mate who'd passed the job onto me about it, and he returned soon after with the base plate with the serial number sticker, that matched the number inside the unit and aslo had, "220-240 VOLTS AC 50HZ 1.5 WATTS", printed on it. He also told me, the person who had asked him to look at it, had told him, that it had worked in Australia. Next, he pointed at a random turntable lid on the bench that had been getting in my way for at least a week and said, "That's the lid." (Annnnd we got to it.) I'd already come to the conclusion that the drive pully was most likely compensating for the change in motor RPM. (Largest diameter drive pully I've seen on a belt drive turntable) And was massively relieved to have you confirm that. I'm still a little concerned about the "discprepancy" in supply voltage(s). Having run the numbers, the current drawn is piffling at 115V and half a piffling at 240V (~12mA and ~6mA respectively). So nothing sould be overstressed. You kind of cruised through the actual connecting it to the mains. So I'd be really interested to know what you were feeding it. Thanks for an excellent series. P.S. You might want to convince your wife to get some clear nail polish for you to nick. The red really was pretty jarring. ;-P

[@ScottFrye000111222]

Thanks from the States. I have a motor here that looks like it will need help.( It will be the guinea pig...or, New guinea for those down undah) I have another I found on Ebay last year that will go into this current repair

[@vintageboulton]

Great idea, you'll have spare parts as well then. Thanks for confirming the voltage on the cap too 🙏

[@PetraKann]

Capacitors are fairly easy to get hold of in Australia. How many micro Farad are the capacitors you are replacing?

[@vintageboulton]

0.01 UF 1500v and a .39uf 600v They were easy to order from Australia sites but they were still dispatched from Hong Kong or the US

[@PetraKann]

@@vintageboulton Some film caps used in HiFi can be very expensive. hundreds of dollars each (or more). Australia manufactured almost everything it needed in the past. Even vacuum tubes, light aircraft, TVs, HiFis, the world's best white goods, cars, ships, etc. Now we cant make spoons or T-Shirts.

[@Don-rz6jq]

@@vintageboulton1,500V. That seems strange. Is that a bypass cap.?

[@brucetaylor7095]

Hi mate, I previously restored an AR XA that had this motor. It's really low torque. I used the Premotec 9904 111 31813 which is a much nicer and more powerful unit as used on a bunch of other tts such as Linn, ERA etc. Not cheap though, so that's a downside. I now have in my possession an XA Universal model. Interestingly, it had a .47uF Black Cat cap instead of the more usual .39uF. 0.39uF is the correct cap, so this is a bit of a mystery. As you say, Australia is a backwater for electronics parts. In this power supply application, you do need to use safety caps, such as X2. They didn't have safety caps back in the day, but they should be a matter of course nowadays. This XA Universal model that I have now won't even start by itself and needs a bit of a push to get going. After that, it runs fine without vibration and holds the correct speed. I'm seriously considering going with the Premotec motor again... Thanks for the great video.

[@vintageboulton]

The Premotec's are nice indeed, I did investigate that option but yeah came to the conclusion that it would be too expensive this time. However I'm still going to do this down the track, either by using Rega's 24v motor(by premotec) with the speed control or a brushless DC motor with speed control. I think this would ultimately future proof the tt as one day I imagine even Dave at Vinyl Nirvana may retire, and if I can't get the belts then I'm stuffed 😂 Good luck with the new Universal XA restoration 👍

[@saltwaterdawgoutdoors2190]

@@vintageboulton If your going to spend the extra cash, the Rega Premotec with speed control would be interesting.

[@ScottFrye000111222]

THe most working voltage you'll need on the caps is 400 AC or DC for a wall voltage of 120. 630 VAC for 220 VAC wall supply

[@dion5228]

𝔭𝔯𝔬𝔪𝔬𝔰𝔪 🤷