Set a turquoise with the lost wax casting technique

Check out this quick bit from our Lost Wax Casting 3 - Settings in Wax (online) workshop. This video is a quick summary of the steps to make a ring with a bezel set Royston turquoise (from Turquoise Moose moose.store).
The steps shown include: preparing the carving wax block, creating the setting in wax, carving the ring, spruing, investing, casting and setting the stone. The stone is set by chasing the sterling over it using a punch and hammer.
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Study jewelry in person or online at Silvera Jewelry School (www.silverajewelry.com/classes/).
Our in person classes are hands on with lots of help, materials are included and every student has a bench full of tools to use during class.
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[@judithglennon1409]

I'm going to give a shout out to Joe and all of his teachers at Silvera Jewelry School. I've been taking his classes for years as a hobbyist but now that I am ready to dive in and go full time as a designer I have been hitting his classes hard. He has all sorts of classes for the hobbyists as well as starting your own business. His online classes are just as good as in person classes too!!

[@joesilvera8853]

Aw! Thanks Judith!

[@jaimemierke8407]

Love this! I'm surprised at how little tutorials there are on jewelry like yours.

[@DivineFeminineDiaries]

I never knew about the lighter fluid tip, I was taught to use fire. Thank you!

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Happy to help! There are citric based wax polishers, too. And in a pinch, some students have used Goo Gone. Thanks for watching!

[@blinkie1114]

Wow, what a comprehensive video, this is so helpful. With such beautiful craftsmanship too!

[@BanilyaGorilya]

This is wholesome content. Will be showing my mom!

[@jacobheaman500]

Awesome video, thank you. I enjoyed watching every second of it.

[@elisazulueta9535]

Thank you for incredible inspiring video, you made state of the art ring❤

[@MrDeathray117]

Excellent video!

[@buttsmckenzy1555]

I wanted to stop by to thank Joe Silvera for making my afternoon so lovely. Not only is the video well-made and educational, but that bit at the end where you say "It just makes me happy to look at", love that, I'm so happy that you find joy in the creative process, god knows I do, so lovely to hear that. :)

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Wow, thank you!

[@nkita7363]

Exactly what I was looking for thank you!!!

[@VisionItTv]

Beautiful piece

[@alexeinuville2555]

I loved the video, very instructive!! I'm just starting to work in silver and this kind of content is awesome!! Thanks a lot for sharing this!!!!

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Glad it was helpful!

[@reginaldstack6054]

This was amazing I love that ring

[@medhatmeme7195]

You have fan from Egypt 🇪🇬

[@amar8328]

Beautiful camera work.. nice sound n explanation .. short n simple ...excelent job 11/10 👌👌👌👌

[@AceBullion]

Enjoyed that Alot. As I hallmark everything I would have to send the rung to the assay office before setting the stone. But I think I have alot to learn. You might be seeing me online in your class. 👍👍👍

[@jenbedrossian967]

Very informative! Thank you!!

[@rickslick6430]

Thank you for the education

[@Gemsland786]

Amazing ❤

[@Del-Martinez-]

Nice! Thank you

[@mehditorfi3343]

Thank you

[@sethmullins8346]

Okay this is cool. I always wanted to have a ring with an emerald or amber in it.

[@zanemaingot9690]

i loved it make moreee videosss

[@vladimirkovacevic1656]

awesome ring

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Thank you!

[@jamielieberg7053]

I will try that with my 8,5 cart burmese ruby Iwill do in in black hills gold thank you for showing me this

[@ydna]

nice one

[@xXxSynthxXx]

Bro you got that bad boi to exactly 1.0 dwt. What are the chances of exactly that, hell that is impressive.

[@claudiodias8939]

Muito bom !!! Parabéns !!!

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Obrigado!

[@husseingoidsmet1568]

Very good

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Thanks!

[@hunterindahpermata3776]

Mantap

[@hellion6102]

Great and informative video! I have an unusual design for a memento mori ring. Can I achieve this setting with small domed glass if careful when tapping the metal? Thanks!

[@joesilvera8853]

Hi - Yes. We often have to practice this setting on glass in school. Try it on a simple sample first before the real thing, if you like and you can reduce the wall thickness to around 20-24 gauge, too. Memento mori are wonderful and hold so much meaning. Thanks for watching

[@baguzgemstone]

Wow...salam dari indonesia

[@ClashixTV]

that's one big ring :D

[@melaniepetrona]

Great and helpful video! Do I need to anneal the piece after cleaning before stone setting? Thank you❤

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! The ring was annealed after casting, and so is ready to set after polishing. Annealing it after polishing could reintroduce fire scale, so best to do it beforehand. Thanks for watching! Joe

[@lisakroin1168]

Thanks for the helpful video! I'm just wondering how high should the wax bezel be over the stone? 1mm? If the stone is more domed than as flat as the one here, should it go far over where it curves in? Thanks!

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Lisa - Yes, I start with about 1 mm above where the stone touches the inside of the bezel. If the stone is very flat, it's less because the bezel has to bend further to secure the stone. The goal always is to maximize the stone, not to cover it up with the setting. Make it look even more beautiful. :^)

[@janetvannuys3122]

This is a great video tutorial. Clear and succinct. I wonder how much did you take off the edge of stone setting in order to allow for shrinkage? Also I couldn't hear how long ago stone setting technique was used/what country/not sure what was said there. Also with such a large ring, were you at all concerned with the metal flowing to the top through one sprue? Lastly, using a vacuum casting table takes the place of a centrifuge? Thanks

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - Thanks for your questions and for watching. Shrinkage is 5% after casting. This is an old style of setting and goes back to ancient Rome, if not earlier. If you size the sprue correctly and know how to manage the thickness of the wax model, then using one sprue is often successful. Also, using a casting machine, like centrifugal casting machine or a vacuum casting machine, can give you great results. You can absolutely use a vacuum casting machine for this project. If you want to learn LOTS more about making stone settings for casting, including casting with stones in place, please check out our Lost Wax 3: Settings in Wax workshop. Available online and in person. We have one starting this week (7/25/24). www.silverajewelry.com/classes/w/ID/539/eventID/7878/Lost-Wax-Casting-3-Stone-Setting-in-Wax/details.asp Thanks again! Joe

[@janetvannuys3122]

@@SilveraJewelrySchool Thanks for addressing my questions! I will check that link out.

[@cpayne1757]

Nice. So, how did you do the cross hatching - file? saw blade?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Thanks! I used a checkering file: www.silverajewelry.com/search/?search=checkering+file&submit=Go

[@lizhuff4248]

Great video!!! How do you get the cabochon to stay on the wax so you can scribe the outline? Also, how do you remove it?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - I used some sticky positioning wax. It comes off easily. :^) Thanks, Joe

[@pennymcintyre1084]

Thanks for that great little tutorial. What type of vice do you use? I'd like to get a rotating vice but not sure which brand.

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

I'm using a GRS low profile vise. www.silverajewelry.com/store/w/id/3839/c/317/t/GRS/n/GRS-BenchMate-Round-Vise/details.asp Thanks for watching!

[@incaseyww]

Great video! Are you using wax saw blades to trim excess wax? How much extra space is being shaved in the setting to account for shrinkage (0.5mm)? And last, would you use the same hammer/punch technique if the stone was square or rectangular?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Julie - Yes, I usually use 2/0 spiral saw blades. If you adjust the setting for shrinkage, it's 5% larger in the wax. The punch method will work fine for stones with corners, like squares and rectangles. :^) Thanks for watching! Joe

[@amberm5924]

Excellent video! Thank you for sharing your method. Do you need to resize your bezel after casting? I’ve heard the bezel can shrink in the process. Also, I am planning to use a furnace to melt down my metal- do you know if I need to add flux to it with this method? Thanks again!

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Amber - Thanks for watching! Yes, castings shrink 5%. So you either need to grind the setting after casting, or make it 5% larger in the model. Re: graphite crucibles and flux - There are mixed answers to this question. I don't use flux, or at most a pinch of boric acid when melting. Graphite is different from ceramic crucibles and has a very clean reducing atmosphere during a melt. Using flux won't ruin anything, but it can make it difficult to get out any leftover metal, which gets stuck in the flux. If you use flux, you definitely have to use a separate crucible for each alloy. Happy casting!

[@amberm5924]

@@SilveraJewelrySchool thank you so much! This was so helpful

[@mso1084]

Hi there. What type of saw blade were you using to cut the wax and also to detach the casted metal from the sprue base? Are they different blades? Thank you so much

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Maya - The blade for the wax is a 2/0 spiral saw blade and the one for metal is a similar regular saw blade (for metal, not spiral) between 2/0 - 3/0. Thanks for watching!

[@KedarJugdar]

The video was awesome . . What was the mold made of ? That White powder. . ?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Investment. I think I used Ransom and Randolph's Ultravest.

[@Gojirafistful]

How did you get the score marked design on the sides of the rings after it was cast ?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! I used a checkering file, Swiss cut 0. You could also use a regular file and cut lines with the corner of the file, or even try using your jewelers saw. The checkering file makes it easy to make parallel lines. Thanks for watching!

[@epicunderstament867]

Hello, I hope you can help! How do you do rubover set a single round stone on signet rings? Should I use a flat top with straight edge stone and just glue it? Or a flat top with single bevel stone? If using a FTSB stone that is 1.5mm in height, do i need the bevel to be a bit higher than the stone? And what would the thickness of the bezel should be? Many thanks in advance!

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - Generally gluing is not the first choice for quality jewelry. Try this video on bezels from our friends at Beaducation. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6LVZWlsn61mpLM

[@Regdiggs]

Is the vacuum table required for casting the silver or can you heat the mold hotter than the silver to allow more time for the silver to flow into the finer details

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! Casting started 6000 years ago with simple gravity pours into clay molds. This is the least amount of force you can use to help your metal fill the mold. A lot has changed. A vacuum table helps to pull trapped air and gas out of the way and pulls the metal into the mold for a good fill. You can also use a centrifugal casting machine to apply greater force to fill the mold. You can just pour the metal into the mold, but your chances of a full casting are reduced. Somethings you can do to assist the casting are to make sure that the sprues aren't too narrow. Add vent sprues on the to the models to keep trapped gas out of the way. Don't try to cast too many models at the same time. Don't overheat the mold! Use the same normal casting temperature as a normal casting, from 900 - 1050°F. If the mold is too hot, the metal may take too long to cool and can cause porosity or other defects in the models. You can add force in simple and very interesting ways: look up steam casting and sling casting. :^) Thanks for watching! Joe

[@leejacobs8663]

I have carved a few ring very similar to the one u made but have no access to the equipment to finish do u do work for others.

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Lee - I don't. But I have a list of casters on our school site: www.silverajewelry.com/links.asp?cat=13

[@KnightSquire]

So I need to make a wax ring and cast for every ring I produce? Or is there another method if I don't want to do one offs?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - This is one way to make a ring like this. You can also fabricate it from scratch. The great thing about lost wax is that you can make a mold of the original ring. This can fit calibrated stones, or you can create kind of a generic basic ring that you can mold and then modify to fit the individual stones. Lost wax is a great way to leverage your production time. We offer Lost Wax workshops, including making molds at SilveraJewelrySchool.com. (live online and in person classes). Check it out!

[@mymythology8799]

Great video! thx a lot! got one question how vaccum unit helps pouring metal? i didn't notice any holes from the other side

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! No holes required. There's enough porosity in the investment to draw out air and gases. Thanks for watching! Joe Silvera

[@mymythology8799]

@@SilveraJewelrySchool I ll try to build one. thx for eхplanation!

[@joej3365]

have you gotten into the 3d modeling and printing of wax ups

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

I'm so old that I was making models before computers, so that's my background. But I have dabbled in CAD and 3D printing. What's interesting is that with hand carving and computers you still get to the same place - a model you can burn out and cast using the same lost wax casting method. So far that is. At some point I'm sure they'll be able to print metal in a way that isn't fragile. Right now they use a method that is similar to sintering, and that tends to break more easily than traditional cast rings.

[@rileyhall8294]

Hey, this video was so helpful thank you. Did you use a chasing tool to hammer the bezel onto the stone? I couldn’t quite figure out what tool that was.

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! It's like a small planishing punch used for chasing. Thanks for watching! Joe

[@polarjeez]

5:31 I’d like to be able to simply melt the metal as you did instead of using a furnace. How do you ensure you didn’t get the metal too hot/the perfect temperature? Do you just maintain heat all the way over to the vacuum right after it’s reached it’s melting point? Also what do I search for to get this equipment? What do you have the metal inside of? I see a cast iron pan, what else would you use?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - Those are all very good questions. These are important steps to do correctly and safely, more than I can cover in a reply. Our school covers lost wax casting in our Lost Wax Casting 1 - the Basics workshop. It's available in person and online. Check it out at silverajewelry.com/classes/w/c/30/Casting for more info and upcoming dates. Thanks for watching. Joe

[@hesaudeleon]

Muy buen video, una pregunta con ese sistema de casting con la bomba de vacio se pueden poner varios anillos, o solo uno?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

¡Hola! Gracias por ver nuestro video. Puede lanzar múltiples modelos: anillos, aretes, etc. en un frasco. En un matraz lo suficientemente grande, podrías lanzar 50 o más modelos.

[@hesaudeleon]

@@SilveraJewelrySchool muchas gracias

[@Enkaged]

I'm over here using a kitchen knife to grind my septum ring down because its too big... sure wish i had one of the tools u use.

[@lockbow]

A good video. Are you using Tiranti's or Ferris' green wax?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! Ferris

[@Fidcincin]

what time does it take to melt the master candle?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Rafid - If I understand your question. correctly, it takes between 5 - 12 hours to burn out the wax model in the kiln. Thanks for watching!

[@timpea777]

3:00 The sound of very tightly strung high tensile steel... jus't in case you're interested?

[@Regdiggs]

Can regular plaster be used to cast the ring?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! Thanks for your question. Plaster is different from investment. Investment can withstand the process of high temperature burnout. I have a bad habit of calling investment plaster (I don't think that I'm alone in this), so sorry for any confusion. Thanks for watching! Joe

[@ameliabuns4058]

I'm confused, how did you get rid of the wax model in side the cast? does it just burn and take into smoke?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - The wax melted out during the burnout in the kiln. The kiln slowly heats up from 300° F to 1350° F, which removes all the wax, leaving a void inside the flask that is the exact shape of the wax model. Then we fill that space with cast metal. For more details watch my Lost Wax Casting Process video at SilveraJewelrySchool.com/videos. Thanks! Joe

[@katieg4654]

Hi! I was wondering if you had a link to the punch you use in this video? Thanks!

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - I made the punch from square tool steel, but Fretz makes some similar punches. Search for Fretz PL-2 and PL-9. They sell them at RioGrande.com. Thanks for watching!

[@onielaokiflm7018]

if the stone is in the candle, how do you need to add tools or what?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Layla - Thanks for your question, but I'm not sure if I understand your question re" "candle" (do you mean the wax I carved?) and about the tools. Please ask again and I'd be happy to answer. Best! Joe

[@kevinishki]

So let's say I 3d print a wax ring what do I need to use it to make a gold ring that I can put a diamond on?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

3D printed models go through a fairly normal lost wax casting process to cast into metals like gold: sprue, invest, burnout and cast. To see the steps to cast a model in more detail you can watch my Lost Wax Casting Process video at SilveraJewelrySchool.com/videos. You can buy casting kits at OttoFrei.com and RioGrande.com. Thanks! Joe

[@tripleh4884]

What torch and fuel were you using?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Smith acetylene/air torch.

[@moonmochi5151]

Thanks for the great tutorial! I was wondering if someone could help me out with a problem I’m having. I recently got into wax carving and had several pieces cast in silver. The problem is that every casted piece tarnishes extremely quickly, I’m talking literally a few hours of just lying on my desk after polishing and it already starts to tarnish. I really don’t know what to do about this… Am I doing something wrong or is something wrong with the alloy my caster is using? Or is that a normal thing with casted silver?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - Yes, fast tarnishing sterling can be frustrating. If you're having such a fast reaction, there may be an environmental factor. For example, storing your jewelry too close to your chemical patinas will cause them to oxidize. Also, humidity, sulfides in the air, and other things can make sterling tarnish rapidly. If you're casting is using a normal 925/75 sterling alloy, it shouldn't tarnish quickly. Two approaches to stop it are 1) use a non-tarnishing alloy, or 2) store your jewelry with anti-tarnish strips. Alloys like de-oxidized sterling and Argentium 940 are naturally tarnish resistant. If you use these and they somehow still tarnish, it must be something in your studio, like a nearby or airborne chemical. Their natural tarnish resistance is a great selling point. Anti tarnish strips can be inserted into a plastic bag or case with your jewelry. Also, properly storing your jewelry can help to prevent tarnish as well. I would try some of these tips, and also store some of your jewelry somewhere else as a test, like at a friend's house, just to see if it's your space or not that is the issue. You can also check some regular sterling sheet and wire, not from your caster. Is it tarnishing quickly too in the same place? Thanks for watching! Joe

[@moonmochi5151]

@@SilveraJewelrySchool thank you for the tips! With regular sterling wire or sterling chains I buy for pendants I never had any problems at all, that’s why I was wondering about the casted pieces.

[@swordfish00007]

Do you teach how to make lapel pins?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

We do offer a class in making pins and brooches called Brooch Back Mountings. We have one scheduled for October 2021 that we'll be adding soon. Check our class calendar in a few days. SilveraJewelrySchool.com/classes

[@lancelottavola9685]

very nice ring design, I wondering is it possible to make a ring in 999% silver using lost wax system and vacum machine? I ask that becouse pure silver is hard to give details when casting in traditional way...

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - This ring was cast with a centrifuge, but also works with a vacuum casting setup. You can cast in fine silver (.999), however it is softer and so details will wear off faster than sterling. You could consider using Argentium instead. It is harder than fine silver and is tarnish resistant. It casts beautifully. You just have to wait longer after casting before quenching it or use a dry method to knock out the investment.

[@lancelottavola9685]

@@SilveraJewelrySchool thanks for the info :)

[@sarahwebster8274]

What was the tool you were using at 3:25 mins in? Tia

[@joesilvera8853]

Hi! It was a fine wax bur from this set that we sell. The cone shaped one. The teeth are set close together and can create a very smooth surface on your models. www.silverajewelry.com/global/viewer.asp?img=/img/products/item-3272020-2956_lg.jpg Thanks for watching!

[@Jordan-rb28]

So do you just let the wax melt out all over the floor of your burnout oven or what? I figured you needed to collect the majority in a catch pan, take the pan out, flip the mold upright, then turn the temperature up for actual burn out.

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Jordan. Nope, the mouth stays down the hole time, but with space for the wax to trip out and eliminate. Thanks for watching.

[@langetlikisorma]

How do you know how much metal to melt for this

[@joesilvera8853]

Hi! You can calculate the amount of metal to cast by weighing the wax and multiplying that weight by the specific gravity of the metal you want to cast. And then you add more for the button, the extra amount of metal that helps to make a better casting.

[@yamzanzuri100]

amazing! what's the name of the flat casting?

[@yamzanzuri100]

what is the name of your Prestige Optima Investment

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi. I use Ransom and Randolph Ultravest. Thanks for watching!

[@charity2727]

How many hours did it take you?

[@joesilvera8853]

Hi! It took about 4-5 hours, not including burnout time in the kiln. Thanks for watching!

[@ceoworld54]

If you wax is 1 gram how much metal do you use?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi - Thanks for your question. Every metal alloy as a specific gravity number associated with it. You can google it. Multiply the weight of the wax model the the SG of the alloy you're casting. Wax models are very light, so for accuracy, make sure your scale can measure to 1/10th (.1) of a gram. Thanks for watching!

[@Fidcincin]

My boss please study with the boss, I'm trying to make a 2-inch flash casting, how many temperature measurements are needed. and how many hours, please boss can tell me

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Rafid - The best source for the temperature requirements and recommended stages of heating are the manufacturers of the investment. For example, you can go to www.ransom-randolph.com/_files/ugd/cc5f22_ca7555f16b6446bbad0d8d4936cc08c7.pdf to find an example. Thanks!

[@Dhamar_Kesaenan]

what kind of wax?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Ferris green carving wax :^)

[@kemarcruickshank6385]

How much to join the class

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi Kemar! We learn this project in Lost Wax 3: Settings in Wax. It's available online or in persona and it's $295 - 325 depending on the format. This class requires previous experience with lost wax casting, like successful completion of Lost Wax 1, which we also offer. Thanks for watching! Find out more at SilveraJewelrySchool.com/classes

[@commafetchin]

Great video do you have any content on the burnout schedule

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

This should help: www.ishor.com/investment-mixing-and-burnout-instructions

[@Jordan-rb28]

7:30 I thought for sure that would crack the Turquoise

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

When this method is taught, students often practice on glass cabochons! If you can set glass, you're more confident with stones. :^)

[@malfanar]

Hi When i put the flask in the burnout klin do i have to follow the heat cycle or it’s enough to melt the wax and make the temperature up to 750 degrees c for about 1 hour and i pour the silver in the flask?

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! You should follow a recommend burnout cycle to ramp and dwell at set temperature stages. Most investment manufacturers offer PDFs with details for each brand. Heating too rapidly can cause the investment to crack or even blow apart. Happy casting!

[@bobbypatton4903]

How did the surface texture of the ring change mid video? Lol

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

Hi! Used a checkering file to texture it after casting: www.silverajewelry.com/search/?search=checkering+file&submit=Go

[@ogsoupcan1243]

Sea I don't have a vacuum chamber

[@SilveraJewelrySchool]

It's possible to invest a flask for casting without a vacuum table. You can use vibration to dislodge air bubbles. You can cast with a centrifuge instead of using a vacuum casting machine, too. Thanks for watching!