Setting up and adjusting the DoAll drive system. || RotarySMP

[@GeoffTV2]

Just watched Clough42 and Artisan Makes, now it's time for another favourite KZbinr... - Heather

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Heather, thanks for your continued support.

[@mazchen]

Seems you're having the same timeline as I do :-)

[@GeoffTV2]

@@mazchen 🙂Inheritance Machining too?

[@mazchen]

@@GeoffTV2 of course. And CEE.

[@thesfreader3068]

@@mazchen @geoffTV2 Yep. Same here. That's what the doctor prescribed.

[@voltairegoethe]

Soon to be christened the ReDoAll...

[@RotarySMP]

Good name. It is getting there.

[@h-j.k.8971]

Good ole Bauhaus.

[@RotarySMP]

Yeah, quite handy.

[@seancollins9745]

I had a band saw with speed control problems at work, some doall knock off. I finally had the end of my patience with it. Ordered a 1hp 2000rpm brushed dc motor and put a lathe dc speed controller on it, total spend was like $250 on Amazon and let me tell you, screw belts and pulleys. The cuts are always amazing and we can always get the exact speed we need. And the DC motor is so smooth. I put a timing cog bt setup in it to get rid of excessive pulleys.

[@RotarySMP]

Is that a slow speed geared saw, or a high speed saw for wood?

[@seancollins9745]

​@@RotarySMP it was a metal saw, but we can get blade sfm to almost any speed.

[@RotarySMP]

@@seancollins9745 Nice.

[@HansFormerlyTraffer]

I find that cleaning, repairing, tuning and modding stuff like that to be very gratifying.

[@RotarySMP]

I do as well. It is nice to use a machine which previously was a worn out wreck.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Mark, An enjoyable video, thank you... I like that you kept the tradition of polishing the nameplate on this project. Take care. Paul,,

[@RotarySMP]

My pleasure Paul.

[@TheDistur]

The band saw keeps giving.

[@RotarySMP]

It does. Hopefully only one more maintenance video required. :)

[@wyrdlg]

Man I'd like to now where the Musik is from, specially the intro! Nice vid too! Again! Even some fun in there!

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks a lot. The songs are listed in the video description. I use artlist.io for music.

[@davidkaye821]

It's listed in the Description above, at the end. You'll need to click "More" to see the whole thing.

[@jonka1]

@@RotarySMP is there a way to turn the music off?

[@RotarySMP]

@@jonka1 Sorry no. It is baked in. My editing software can only kept audio synced up to 8x speed increase. I often spped things up more, so I need to cover the audio.

[@Rustinox]

Your electric motor was made ACEC, Charleroi, Belgium, but I suppose you already figured that out. And you're getting close to a fully operational machine now. That's good.

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Michel. It is a really nice heavy iron framed motor. Hopefully just one more video in this series.

[@philip_fletcher]

The grease tip is tucked behind the thingamebob. I remember you putting it there when you were working on the whachamacallit.

[@RotarySMP]

I thought as much :)

[@jimsvideos7201]

I’m impressed that you resisted the urge to paint all those parts green. 😄

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Jim. I figured that they will soon be buried in oily saw gunk again :)

[@vr66luke]

Fantastic content. Really got hooked on your channel.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the kind feedback.

[@briantaylor9266]

My uneducated guess is that when the previous owner that changed the motor to suit European voltage/Hz, they had to monkey around with pulley sizes, belt lengths, and riser blocks to approximate the correct blade speeds.

[@RotarySMP]

You could be on to something there. The 50Hz here would lead to speeds 20% lower, all things being equal.

[@scrout]

​@@RotarySMP 16.66 but who's calculating....

[@ChriFux]

​@@scroutgz

[@RotarySMP]

@@scrout Bit of a rounding error :)

[@cooperised]

Easy mistake to make given that 60Hz _is_ 20% higher than 50Hz. 😁

[@important9836]

Nice work. Regards from Canada

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks a lot.

[@jster1963]

I can't believe all the grease fittings on a 767! And I need to put my tools away like that too. Great work.....

[@RotarySMP]

G'day Jasper, How is that new shed progressing?

[@jster1963]

@@RotarySMP G'day. It's the entire house. It's crazy, but now the gas company and water company are behind on hooking up! That was supposed to be done 2 weeks ago, but it's still not. I'm getting space heaters today so that I can continue painting. It has been a long journey. We are still grateful that we live in a free home until ours is complete. We were hoping to be in before Christmas, but I don't think that will happen.....

[@RotarySMP]

@@jster1963 That has been a really painful build. I guess with the economy strong, there is a lot of competition for good tradesman at present.

[@jster1963]

@@RotarySMP Very painful, and yes......

[@joell439]

Mark, you keep this up and you’re going to have to acquire more miss-fit toys to renew. 😂 Looking forward to whatever is next around the corner. Great work 👍😎👍

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Joell there will be a next one :)

[@gofastwclass]

I have the same bandsaw from 1956 without the replacement motor but it is missing the weight system. Thankfully mine only needed a thorough cleaning and proper sized belts so the motor didn't bounce against the bottom. With a little love, these saws are still fantastic after all these years.

[@RotarySMP]

They really are. I think I am catching up on about 50 years of missing maintenance here.

[@steveggca]

Interesting to finally see how the variator works, I'm familiar with the torque converters on snowmobiles (centrifical) ,the variators on bridgeport machines (spring +thrust bearing) first time i've seen this setup with the floating center sheave that works with the weight of the motor and the 2 belts . very simple.

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Steve. It is pretty simple, with motor floating vertically, and horizontally to compensate, and the variator also able to self center. Nowadays, it would be a bigger motor and a VF :)

[@steveggca]

@@RotarySMP Just had a look at the current do-all saws ,indeed they do use a VFD with 2, 3, or 5hp motors depending on size. just like woodworking saws they are all welded steel, no more cast iron.

[@RotarySMP]

@@steveggca My DoALL is also primarily a welded steel sheet frame. There are castings for fittings and wheels etc.

[@steveggca]

@@RotarySMP Ah ! woodworking bandsaws moved away from cast iron (ie delta 14" or its 100's of clones) because the frames were too flexible to handle the required saw band tension, the higher the better ,within reason. Doall apparently knew that all along.😀 there was me assuming that old equals iron.

[@stephenmurray2335]

Just recently discovered your channel. I don't know how it's passed me by for so long, but it does mean there's a good back catalogue to catch up on. Love the content, though not the music - I just prefer to hear the tool and background noises. Great stuff, and thanks for sharing!

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the feedback Stephen (or Murray- In Austria a lot of people have Surnames like Markus, Joseph etc which can get confusing). Getting music right is the hardest part. My editing software looses sound sync when I speed up footage beyond 8x, so I need to hide the unsynced sounds. It probably doesn't help that my soft spot of Reggae is not widely shared :)

[@stephenmurray2335]

@@RotarySMP No worries Mark, and thanks for the swift reply. Here in the UK it's usually - but not always - Stephen first. Likewise but reversed with Murray. And there is to be music, then let it be Reggae! 😀👍

[@RotarySMP]

@@stephenmurray2335 I guess you get used to it :)

[@vincei4252]

Work on this DoAll is almost (almost*) as thorough as getting that name plate clean 😆 Happy Sunday, Mark. It's freezing here but my task today is climb on the Observatory and replace its 250 sq ft roof down to sheathing. Fun times.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Vince. Sounds like no fun. Be careful on that roof.

[@vincei4252]

@@RotarySMP Thanks. Yeah, I bought a full safety harness. Have to do the work as winter is here and there's a hole that is letting water in and that's damaging the walls. Better now than too late.

[@adagioleopard6415]

Oh wow, I need one of those maintanance computers

[@RotarySMP]

Glad you liked that :)

[@Paddington60]

That is some good work and fixes that will reward you for years to come. Thanks for bringing us along!

[@RotarySMP]

Glad you enjoyed that one John. Hopefully just one more video in this machine.

[@daclotype]

This channel makes for a perfect Sunday treat! Will be getting a 3d printer through the channel soon! Cheers from Seattle!

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks, I appreciate that. I hope it works for you as well as this one has for me. Gamechanger v my old home made one.

[@davidkaye821]

3D printing is a SUPER fun and useful activity. If you'd like to try a non-traditional method of creating your models, try OpenSCAD, an open-source and VERY DIFFERENT way of doing things! If Big Clive likes it, it MUST be good, right? ;)

[@deepwinter77]

Cans of Brake clean are my go to for cleaning oil and grease of parts.

[@RotarySMP]

I only used brake clean around the grease points, cause it is pretty expensive here. That 20L container of solvent was way cheaper.

[@mattomon1045]

great repair!

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks.

[@WillemvanLonden]

A prayer without ending.

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Willem. I can hopefully wrap this up with one more.

[@FullSendPrecision]

Yes! airplane facts!

[@RotarySMP]

Glad to provide. :)

[@624Dudley]

Hello Mark, I had confidence you’d get this sorted out. 👍 Somehow I completely missed seeing the two risers during the livestream; now, it’s obvious they didn’t belong. About squeeze-out of gasket compound: a lovely Cessna 206 crash landed in a neighboring cow pasture some years back, about 3 miles short of the hoped-for runway, due to power loss. It turned out that the crankcase mounted oil cooler had previously been opened up for maintenance, and was resealed on assembly with too much silicone RTV. There was quite a lot of squeeze-out inwards, where it couldn’t be seen, and a glob broke off and migrated to the crankshaft. It lodged in a crank throw and starved a connecting rod. The occupants survived with some injuries but the aircraft was a total loss.

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Doric, Ouch. Aviation really is intolerant of careless error.

[@Chromevulcan]

3M Super 33 spray adhesive. Spray it on both surfaces, let it get tacky, then bond them together. That stuff is amazing.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the tip.

[@ultratorrent]

All of the pillow block bearings on the belts at package sort facilities are non-sealed bearings, but are set up with zerk fittings for when the bearings fail in the middle of a sort. Basically only getting grease in an "emergency" when the packages need to flow.

[@RotarySMP]

Sounds like a pretty random maintenance program :)

[@julias-shed]

Looks a lot better 😀 I could use one of those fancy maintenance computers 🤣

[@RotarySMP]

Glad you enjoyed that Julia. :)

[@orange5fox]

Might be worth trying your local bike shop for some tubular cement, they use it on track bikes to glue the tubular tyres to aluminium rims (though it may well just be rebadged contact cement anyway).

[@RotarySMP]

Good idea, but are they also bonding polyeurathane?

[@hugobiddlecombe504]

An idea i got that excited me a little bit while watching, you could try and print a tyre out of TPU. just calculate the circumference and model the loop gentlyfolded in a way it fits in the printer, you could even model in the crown if you felt so inclined. It would be an experiment for sure.

[@RotarySMP]

I am not sure if TPU would be rigid enough. The polyeurathane used is pretty hard.

[@dazaspc]

The shaft and bearing for your Air Pump appears like an old style automotive water pump rebuild part. I dont know about now but I used to get these from the bearing supplier. They were dirt cheap. You just cut them down to suit the length required. I used to rebuild and make specialist resin metering pumps and used these shafts in them. Just pressed together with gland packing to seal them up. They dont usally like to be disassembled. May I also suggest that If you are going to replace the belts the best style V belt is one with a "Fully Wrapped" construction and not a ground profile. It is very common in large sets of belts but for smaller ones you normally have to request it. They work well with variator as they wear evenly and drive in shallow or deep groves. In Variator's made to suit ground belts you normally find a specialist belt with an easy wearing reinforcement.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the tips. I will have to see what the belt supplier has here. This saw is basically in a retirement village now, and will never see much work in my shop :)

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

good video RotarySMP

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks again.

[@notsonominal]

Took a look at the bambu link, currently no difference in pricing but that might be due to the current black friday offers? Do you know if you get a commission during black friday sales as well?

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for checking that. Yes the black friday offers are better than the affiliate affiliate discount, but I would still get a commission from that link.

[@notsonominal]

Mixed feelings:P _Trying_ to _not_ buy a Bambu, but I guess this is the time to do it:)

[@RotarySMP]

@@notsonominal It is a real game changer. My old printer was always a lottery. Will it work today, or will I spend hours dicking around trying to get it sorted again. This one just works.

[@notsonominal]

I do have an enclosed printer that works reliably for ASA, considering the A1 combo for PLA/PETG (and to let nephew and nieces play with:)

[@RotarySMP]

@@notsonominal There is a good review from a guy with a print farm, which would indicate the A1 has the best print quality of all in PLA. I guess it is also the newest tech.

[@TheClumsyFairy]

God Poor Herby Heart who took his thromdibulator apart brings back some childhood memories.

[@RotarySMP]

I had that book memorised when my kids were little. Not sure if they enjoyed more, or I did :)

[@philhermetic]

so much smoother and quieter! Could you possibly need some sort of etch adhesive on the aluminium pulleys? really interesting and rewarding work, now I am really missing my workshop!! Phil

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Phil, I am hoping that new belts will make it run even smoother.

[@MikelNaUsaCom]

time to take everything out of the shop and reorganize it so you can find that one little part... I'll just start on that tomorrow.

[@RotarySMP]

:) I like that !

[@martinmaurach300]

Bridgeport type mills with infinitely variable speed drives use the toothed belts. No issues. regards

[@RotarySMP]

Good to know. Thanks Martin.

[@1moregarden]

Maybe a handy tip maybe not. I've always used ultrasonic cleaners with small parts inside of glass jars. I'm sitting in the basket with the solvent.Or cleaner in it, rather than adding the cleaner to the water. This makes it easy manage small parts and also to change the cleaner. When it gets too dirty to be useful f y I

[@RotarySMP]

I do that as well. But these were too big.

[@Omsip123]

Great progress. I’m a bit worried about the motor jittering, maybe a damper might be a good idea.

[@RotarySMP]

That is a good point. I'll revisit that once there is a set of new belts in there.

[@GeoffTV2]

​@@RotarySMP 21:42 Did you know that Bambu lab have just released a TPU that works in their AMS?

[@RotarySMP]

@@GeoffTV2 I hadn't, until a comment today.

[@jimdean7335]

I put DC motor and drive on my small Craftsman Snowflake bandsaw. Super easy to change speeds and only 1 belt, no complicated sneetch machine. Can you say VFD.

[@RotarySMP]

I know it would be easier Jim, but the gearbox and variator are already paid for, and give perfect torque at every speed.

[@JCWren]

Comment before watching? Why not :)

[@RotarySMP]

Hi JC, thanks for tweaking the algorythm.

[@radioroestig9638]

We had a similar problem with the bandsaw in our workshop, with the belts flying off. The top speed was so high that it just ripped of the adhesive. But since the top speed is basically wood bandsaw levels of speed, we just blocked the metal bandsaw from going that high, and run the rubber belts without adhesive. If people in our workshop need higher blade speeds, they can just go to the woodworkshop anyway and use the bandsaw there

[@RotarySMP]

I use this for both wood and metal, so I really need the whole speed range.

[@gubr]

@@RotarySMP What I see is that you need two saws, swapping the band becomes tiresome, doesn't it ;)

[@RotarySMP]

@@gubr That would be one method. The other is just use the wrong blade, at the wrong speed :)

[@deemauk2591]

If the motor mount was in the middle hole the air pump may not be hitting the wall? With the correct length of upper belt I suspect you can add an additional stop nut for the highest speed and not have had to cut the threaded bar down?

[@RotarySMP]

I still need to go through an recheck it all once the new belts arrive.

[@mike230224]

The only thing that worried me was the oil around the variator pulleys. I imagine it wouldn't take much to get on the face for it to transfer to the belt and result in some slipping. Looks like you might have gotten a little on the face with the gloves, but it's hard to tell.

[@RotarySMP]

The variator is oiled from the cup on the end of the shaft, and I imagine a a bit will always get on the sheaves.

[@Jonathanbaker]

shes getting there....

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks Jonathon. Hopefully just one more video.

[@davidkaye821]

OK, you've done it now. You understand that we fully expect you to do a break-down video of your Throm-dim-bu-lator now, right?

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks David, you will get it as soon as poor Herbie Hart and I put it together again.

[@charlespetitjean3961]

01:42 I would say belgian, indeed, since the plate states it is originating from Charleroi... 😁

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for confirming that Charles.

[@lambda7652]

Maybe also think about a VFD as an future upgrade?

[@RotarySMP]

Since there is a working gearbox and variator, a VFD would not add anything, and would probably require a new motor with better insulation.

[@Oberkaptain]

Hey Mark, you might also be getting speed loss from the motor having a different speed.

[@RotarySMP]

I would have expected DoAll to dispatch the saws to 50Hz countries with 16 2/3% larger motor pulleys.

[@Oberkaptain]

@@RotarySMP true but that isnt a stock motor and the pulley arrangement may have been changed,

[@RotarySMP]

@@Oberkaptaintoo true. This machine has been worked over by an industrial sparky at some point, putting on the safety switching, so maybe they installed that motor then.

[@neffk]

Oil might be better for the motor bearings. Check if there is felt wick in there

[@RotarySMP]

I was wondering the same. I couldn't see one in there. I guess I need to pull an end bell and take a closer look.

[@Johannes58934]

18:00 maybe put a standard grease zerk in there?

[@RotarySMP]

Others have pointed out, This may be designed for oil not grease. I should check what bearings are installed.

[@andypughtube]

Are you sure that's a greaser and not an oiler?

[@RotarySMP]

I have no idea. It is now a greaser. I dont even know if the bearings are ball or bushes.

[@andrecarlos985]

Hi, ever worked on a l1011 tristar? You couldnt believe how many greasing points where there on the wings, looked like mushrooms😅😂

[@RotarySMP]

Never did, but the 767's A-checks were enough for me :)

[@Der_Edelpfuscher]

How much work can you put in one Bandsaw? RotarySMP: Yes! 15:47 Ich habe vor kurzem den Variator von meiner Weiler LZ280 überholt, die hat ähnlich gerappelt wie deine DoAll ein Grund dafür waren unter anderem die Festscheiben die einen Axialschlag hatten, jetzt habe ich die neu gemacht und das Teil läuft vom Variator wieder richtig leise. Das würde ich mir an deiner Stelle nochmal genauer angucken, gerade wenn da schonmal jemand was repariert hat. Allgemein sollte in dem ganzen Riementrieb nur soviel Spiel wie nötig vorhanden sein.

[@RotarySMP]

Danke. Ein Axialschlag wegen Bewegung zwischen die zwei Festscheiben, oder wegen verschleis in die Laufflächen?

[@Der_Edelpfuscher]

Axialschlag weil die Bohrung ausgeleiert war. Sowohl von den Festscheiben aus auch von der beweglichen Doppelscheibe. Dein Variator scheint ähnlich aufgebaut zu sein. Hab das bebildert in der Zerspanungsbude stehen, wenn sich das interessiert kann ich mal einen Link raussuchen

[@RotarySMP]

@@Der_Edelpfuscher Bei mir ist der Variator erstaunlich gut beianander, zumindest kein spiel in die Lagerung.

[@billdoodson4232]

Looking at the motor mounts, where they bolt to the machine base, is it possible they have been put in back to front Mark? The motor would move to the right quite a bit if they had, the belt might be long enough and the weight would miss the motor mounts. EDITED: I should have learnt by now; watch the whole bloody video before commenting. Cheers!

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Bill, yeah that was the issue. The pillow blocks were facing the wrong way.

[@AndrewMilne2008]

Hi, did you check the actual output speed of the motor, the rating plate suggested 1400, but i could not see if that was in STAR or DELTA, do you know what the orginal motor speed that would have originally fitted to the saw, as that would have given the ranges as shown on the speed plate ??

[@RotarySMP]

It is jumpred for star. The manual doesnt specify a motor, as I guess they were fitted with one to suite the country of the customer. Easy enough to correct speed back with pulley size.

[@rallymax2]

FWIW, The vari-speed on my Hardinge has wider belts.

[@RotarySMP]

A lathe has much heavier cutting loads than a band saw.

[@kenthesparky178]

The missing part from the grease gun is in that "safe place" you always put stuff like this in.

[@RotarySMP]

It sure is. Safe from discovery from me. There is also a roll of self adhesive black felt in that place.

[@123xqp]

​@@RotarySMPif you're anything like me, when you do eventually find it, you'll have forgotten what you wanted it for.

[@RotarySMP]

@@123xqp Absolutely.

[@LesNewell]

The best way to find it is to buy another. The lost one will then immediately turn up.

[@RotarySMP]

@@LesNewell Good call Les. That will certainly do it. 😁

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

US motors are 1800/3600rpm 1725/3450 for 3 phase so that adds to the fun. Ok I need to go to Vienna to buy hardware by the Kilo. I pay about $3 or so per pound for SAE grade 8 hardware here and metric is higher. Something like that I'll take a pic next time I'm there. No fancy scale though it's weighed on a scale at the register like a grocery store... I wish the US would go to metric hardware and metric for cooking but leave the rest. I also need a supply of metric drill bits and taps as they are more expensive here than SAE even though we use both. My theory is the tool and hardware companies are behind not switching. Force us to buy two sets of tools and stock two ranges of hardware... :) My first choice in belts would be a rubber wrapped belt. A cloth wrapped belt would be too abrasive on those pulleys. All I could think when yo mentioned the air pump was Spaceballs.

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Robert, yeah all you are missing over there is BSW and BA to complete the tool collection :) I am looking for wrapped belts, but given this saw is now in my retirement village for old machines, it will probably last two lifetimes even with ground belts.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

@@RotarySMP My go to for the wrapped belts is riding mower belts. Not all but many are wrapped. I forgot to mention when you did the bolt video... I had an 1875 CB Rogers band saw and it had witworth threads... It was a 36" scary monstrosity of a saw built in the days before they invented guards and covers for anything.

[@RotarySMP]

@@theinfernalcraftsman Thanks for the tip on the wrapped belts. The local vender has some, so I ordered them today. Those overhead lay shaft machine shops with unguarded machines must have taken a lot of limbs. What did you do with that saw?

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

@RotarySMP I ended up selling it to make more room in the shop as I really didn't need it. It was an old line shaft powered saw as in water wheel or steam. It was cool having something that old in the shop but past that it was in the way.

[@RotarySMP]

@@theinfernalcraftsman I watched the series Keith Rucker did on that enormous bandsaw for the fireball tools. Another scary looking machine that one.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

I was interested in the printer but when I click the link you provided, my firewall refused to allow connection to shareasale. That must be redirecting through an ad tracking site.

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the heads up on that. I'll ask.

[@DerinTheErkan]

The motor has Charleroi stamped on the cover, and unless you have changed it before the emergency stop button saying Noodstop on it implies it's a Belgian machine?

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks. It is a nice heavy motor. Cast iron frame.

[@Andrew_Fernie]

Bamboo now make TPU for AMS. I got a roll yesterday but left it at work so havent tried it yet.🙄

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Andrew, that is handy to know. I can picture having a TPU layer on a harder backing being very useful. Not sure which other filaments it sticks to.

[@Andrew_Fernie]

@@RotarySMP TPU sticks to basically nothing. It has to be mechanically interlocked. There is a feature to do this in Cura but not Bambu studio yet.

[@RotarySMP]

@@Andrew_Fernie Oh, then I dont need to rush to get some AMS capable TU then :)

[@Andrew_Fernie]

@@RotarySMP No don't. I've tried it now and it's... not great. It's quite stiff and nowhere near as resillient as my regular tpu. It is actually more like vynil.

[@RickRolling-tc7vb]

Casually buying fasteners by weight over there, like chook pellets at the feed store. That's a civilized way to do it, not 6 at a time in a plastic blister pack (when you only need four) for 20x the price. Another reason to move to Austria.

[@RotarySMP]

I am glad you liked that Rick. I figured I would film that, as it is always interesting to see the little details of how every day things are done else where.

[@steveggca]

Hate to be that guy , but it only looks like being its bought by weight . Mark entered the bin number on the scale , inside the scale weight + bin number = how many pieces. actually to me it seems weird not to see the per piece number. Here in canada , the big box stores are all suppied by a company called Paulin (also called Hillman) the bins are labled with a 4 digit code that you mark on a bag along with quantity (at least in theory, the pen is always missing or empty) . you can mix the bag contents with various items . If you have ever had the "pleasure" of doing an inventory , inventory scales have a function where you count out a specific number of what every you are counting, register that and thereafter you can bulk weight the items which is translated into count. Why yes I do have a lot of time on my hands😁

[@RotarySMP]

@@steveggca Thanks for that Steve. I never really thought about whether the price is per weight or by part, but seeing they only wanted 31 cents for 4 nuts, I dont really care :)

[@ncktbs]

tpu tires?

[@RotarySMP]

I will just stick with the ones designed for this application.

[@johnhawkinson]

Sure looked like the oil bottle at 16:32 had the grease nozzle you were looking for…coincidence?

[@RotarySMP]

That is a different one, by you are right, those bearings might need oil rather than grease.

[@johnhawkinson]

@@RotarySMP Sure, sure, but you could still drive grease through that nozzle maybe! I have no opinion on grease versus oil for this application, my amateur tribologist merit badge was never issued.

[@RotarySMP]

@@johnhawkinson Plain bearings usually need lower viscosity, but then again, they would normally have a wick to maintain the oil in place. If this has ball bearings, I doubt it matters whether oil or grease.

[@helistorm98]

Could it be a motor designed to be usted un 50hz instead of the 60hz the usa has?

[@RotarySMP]

Yes it is a 50Hz motor, as all of Europe is 50Hz supply. I expect DoAll would have put a 20% larger motor pulley on the saws sold to 50Hz countries.

[@antimaterie6431]

put your second tip of the oilgun into the red cap, so you cant lose it again

[@RotarySMP]

Noted.... if I ever find it :)

[@akfarmboy49]

Can you buy inch bolts where you live?

[@RotarySMP]

No easily. Europe is metric. I could get them mail order, but it would probably cost 10x the value for postage.

[@akfarmboy49]

@ is there a eBay. Inch bolt vender in Europe

[@akfarmboy49]

@ here in US all bolt stores and hardware store sell both

[@GeoffMcMasters]

I thought you wanted to get rid of the riser blocks to allow you to have the original belts and the correct speeds. And the only reason is because you can’t make four bolts and yet you have a two lathes and a mill 😂 😂😂

[@RotarySMP]

It is worse than that Geoff.... is only two bolts :)

[@GeoffMcMasters]

@ lol. It worked out in the end. I really like the concept behind the air blower. I’ve seen something similar in engine design. Though it seems that the blades are fully engaging with the tank. Still extremely cool yet I would try and fix it. You could however fix the convex shape on the belt wheel on the mill if you have a rotary table as I’m guessing it would be way too big for the lathe. Still, you’re having a crack. More than most people can say. Really proud of you mate. Take care

[@RotarySMP]

@@GeoffMcMasters Thanks Geoff. Not sure what you mean my the blades and tank? The crown of the saw wheels is in pretty good condition. They don't need much curvature to work. The tire is compliant enough to conform to that.

[@GeoffMcMasters]

@@RotarySMP oh sorry, I don’t know the names of the parts. the chip blower has those extendable blade that move when rotating. The blades extend out and should make a seal with the inner wall of the air tank. I’d say you would be loosing some as over time those blades wear creating gaps and loss of pressure. But then again the bore of the tank could also be out. Hope that makes sense and it sucks when you don’t know the proper names of machine parts and the replacement term ‘thing-a-majig only goes so far. 😂

[@gubr]

Hornbach sells UNC bolts in germany…

[@RotarySMP]

In their stores or just online? There is a Hornbach a half hour from my place, but I dont recall seeing UNC there.

[@gubr]

@@RotarySMP They have like the section for nuts and bolts and in there is the special subsection with special nuts and special bolts and cauter pins and handles and stuff (where you pay by number and not weight, and some are cheap and some are not), and close to the fine threat metric stuff they put some "Zoll" stuff. They have from 1/4" to 1/2" or a bit more UNC in outside and inside hex, even stainless, washers, too. Prices go from not so cheap to premium, but in a pinch it's ok. As for tap and die stuff, I bought an cheapo set years ago at Aldi that had both, nowdays they often come with metric stuff only. Of course I had to buy extra for 1/2" BSW 😏

[@RotarySMP]

@@gubr Bauhaus also has stainless hardware by the peice, and that is crazy expensive. It is located so you see it first :)

[@wizrom3046]

Generally you should avoid using any solvent on the old phenolic/bakelite composite, some hot water and detergent is a good enough cleaner. It is amazing how much care and thought they out into these old machines, compared to modern junk made on a low budget and even lower care factor. I think that loss of pride in manufacturing has been a great loss to humanity. 😥

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for the tip. I figured, since they had been coated oily gunk for years, a quick bath in white spirit would not do any damage,. This was certainly built at a time when an industrial machine was made to last a generation or two. Shame it was so neglected by the time I got it.

[@bheckel1]

fancy bag writer in the hardware isle. We have write it yourself. 1 nut = 17cents. or Buy it by the bag. Only 1 place left to buy by the pound. :(

[@RotarySMP]

This is pretty convenient in the hardware store here.

[@aaronhammond7297]

3d print the tyres

[@RotarySMP]

Too large for the printer unfortunately.

[@melgross]

Complicated saw. I’m just about getting ready to order a 17” metal/wood saw. Varying speeds these days with these saws are much simpler, mechanically. Three phase motor with a VFD. Button for high or low speed range

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Mel, yeah, variators are pretty much obsolete. Kind of cool though :)

[@melgross]

@ my South Bend FOURTEEN lathe uses one. Reeves drive. I like it because the have a motor that moves the pulley, so you just press a button snd the speed changes. Funny though. I have single phase power for it, so I use a VFD anyway. But as it’s an older motor, as the machine is from the early/mid 1970s, I only use the VFD for phase conversion.

[@RotarySMP]

@@melgross Sounds like the VFD in the Schaublin. Kind of overkill, seeing as I also have the back gear and VFD, but it was easier to just leave it in, and only needed two contactors and two outputs to wire it up.

[@melgross]

@@RotarySMP I just bought an j Terra ring take on a VFD. It’s cheap, from Vevor, though others have it too. It’s a VFD, but there aren’t any adjustments. Connect power and a motor, l,use an air switch and you’re ready to go. No speed adjustments. The 5 Hp version was on sale for just $91, so I ordered one just to play with it. It would be good for older machines I imagine as the frequency is fixed so you can’t run it at low speeds and burn an older motor out. Way cheaper than a rotary converter.

[@RotarySMP]

@@melgross That whole rotary convertor thing is not needed over here. All houses, and most apartments have a 3Ph 400V feed.

[@bmalovic]

Hold on... Length of the belt should have nothing to do with ratio/speed. With of belt is other story, cos it will make a difference how deep on this conical pulley will it sit, and according to this will change ratio. Length will just change range of the speed, but on same settings speed should not change.

[@RotarySMP]

Yeah, I didn't express that well. I think I was just moving the used portion of the adjustment range with the different belt lengths. You can see that the longer belt was very loose.

[@thedasroach7743]

I hate it when there's visible grease through my bunghole

[@RotarySMP]

Eat fewer fries :)

[@camillosteuss]

Why do i have a feeling that that motor likes oil instead of grease? It doesn`t really look like a plain bearing(journal b.) setup, but that ball point intake talks oil, while the bottom hole speaks of grease preference... One expects two holes for grease(one for in and the other to force all the shit out of by forcing grease through the first hole) and only 1 for oil(being oil, all the shit and the oil are gonna run down your trouser leg... wait, i meant down the shaft... wait no, that is also fucked up... oh well, you get the point...)... That motor was assembled by a woman - i`m sure of it! There is no way that a normal man made motor can send out so many mixed signals without being wired by an Italian... It just makes no sense... Jokes aside, nice work! Glad to see the old girl getting back into shape... Maybe consider some acetal or similar soft-hard pads as ``damping`` ``bearing`` plates between the motor ``feet`` and the base where it sits... Just to soak up some vibration and make it all a tad smoother... Best regards! Steuss

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Steuss, I was also not sure if it should be grease or oil in there. I am kind of hoping that new belts calm down the motor bouncing a bit, other wise a damper might be in it's future.

[@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc]

Those grease nipples look like oilers to me! I hate live feeds: cheers Matthew

[@RotarySMP]

Could well be. I haven't had the end caps off to see whether they are plan or ball bearings.

[@ozzyburrns]

Yeah normally i see those used for oil

[@RotarySMP]

@@ozzyburrns I guess I need to pull a motor bell housing and take a look. I didn't see and wicks inside, which I would have expected for oil.

[@TradeWorks_Construction]

26:28 Is a “G” Clamp somehow different from a “C” Clamp or are they just called different “in the land down under”? Honestly when I 1st heard ya I went back and listened to it again 2 more times just to make sure I wasn’t hearing things. I know I’ve been surprised before hearing things called differently so now that I think about it, maybe a G clamp might actually kinda make sense too if i consider the thread too …. 🫤 … 😑 … 🙂‍↔️ yeah probably not happening my brain is already set but I will remember to use the local jargon if Im in Australia w/ a pressing need to clamp something …. 😅 or is a “G” clamp actually something completely different and I’m just now only hearing it

[@RotarySMP]

Yep, down under they are definitely G clamps. It would only look like a C clamp if you lost the thread :)

[@milloons2847]

Definitely Belgian: Ateliers de Constructions Electriques de Charleroi. ACEC. They made motors and electrical switch gear also Eexd. Went down with the downfall of the heavy industry in Belgium I guess. The presence of the ACEC brand in this saw is not totally unexpected since it belonged to the Belgian army (ABL marking is the giveaway)

[@RotarySMP]

Thanks for that. I suspected it was from the army there. The Dutch "Noodstop" mod had me thinking Flanders. That is a really heavy cast iron framed motor. Lovely build quality.

[@TheSlowful]

Hello Mark, Stefan here, I bought band from a shop here in Sweden that was made from cork, and I must say it works very well, just cut the right length, glue with contact glue and hold it in place with a ratchet band? The thing you hold goods on the trailer with.🥹

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Stefan, I thought the polyeurathane ones are supposed to be the best these days.