Sewing a Chain Stitch

This video demonstrates how to sew a chain link stitch. Some types of chain link stitches are often incorrectly referred to as Coptic stitches in the bookbinding world. In the video, a thick colored, pre-waxed linen thread is used to help emphasize sewing only. When sewing a chain link stitch, with no board attachment, we recommend using an Irish linen 18/3 thread.
Video filmed by Kasie Janssen and edited by Jessica Ebert, Sewing by Jessica Ebert
Music from KZbin Audio Library:
"Almost in F - Tranquillity" by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution
License (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/

[@magencrisis1682]

Wonderful video!!! I decided to try book binding for the very first time today. I made signatures by folding some A4 printer paper I had on hand, secured them with a saddle stitch, then joined them together using this method. For a long time I thought I was just too impatient and easily frustrated to sew things by hand, but I sat for like three hours straight just binding this book and having a good time, so I guess all I needed was the right tutorial!

[@MattanawOriginal]

I just did this for the first time with 8 signatures, and the result looks fantastic. Thanks! Only followed your video.

[@th.burggraf7814]

I haven't bound a book yet, but I think I'll use this method on my first attempt. Thanks for sharing this.., much appreciated ! 👍🏻

[@susicave6542]

Thank you SO MUCH! I have tried various methods which resulted in gaps between my signatures and was about to give up. But thanks to you I have now found my favourite way to sew my signatures and NO GAPS!! Thank you xx

[@missfortune5917]

Hey I just wanted to say thank you for making this. This is now my favorite way to stitch books and I've been doing it this way for about a year now 💖

[@sbelledmonds]

Great tutorial! I'm a beginner and was able to follow this easily. Thanks for making this technique so accessible!

[@Stefano-e7l]

Thank you, stitching my first book with 11 signatures worked flawlessly! Really appreciated the clarity and the “down to the essentials” format.

[@ThePreservationLab]

Congratulations!! So happy you found the video helpful!

[@karenharmer519]

I am just getting into book binding i always considered it to long a process, i am so wrong, it's a wounderfull thing to accomplish & to see it finished. I love this video so precise & calming. thank you for sharing. 💝💝💝💝💝

[@veronicaalmroth4885]

Thank you! I used this for my first hand made book ever! It was very easy to follow even for a complete beginner like myself. It turned out great!

[@imegigodson6693]

wow. book binding is an art of its own

[@vctrsone]

Just finished binding two books with this method, its great.

[@tharakaseneviratne6843]

I was using different methods but this one is very simple and effective. Thank you so much !!!

[@rfowler6039]

Glad I found this! It's easy to follow and works like a charm...thank you!

[@winterlude100]

So happy to find this video! I am just a beginner and have only done pamphlet stitches. I have been wanting to try sewing a text block but all the videos are either too fast or too distant. Thanks so much!

[@ThePreservationLab]

You are so welcome! Happy sewing.

[@sandabadon8839]

I made a diary like this for the first time and it's an amazing method ❤

[@Stefbusta]

Your video is wonderfully easy to follow, thank you so much!

[@lisanathaliem]

Thanks so much!! Best, most clear and easiest tutorial I've seen so far. Helped me a lot!

[@VILARY_ARTS]

After watching so many tutorials this is the best that i have found😊 Thanks for sharing ❤

[@Top2tow]

This looks wonderful. You are very easy to follow along with. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.❤

[@julietterousselet7164]

I'm doing some mini-books for fun and it worked well. Thanks.

[@janedoe7259]

Thank you so much for making this video. This is the clearest explanation I've found. ❤

[@pattimcclelland6635]

Thank you. This stitch always intimated me. You showed so easily and clear that I'm ready to try it. Thank you again.

[@ThePreservationLab]

Oh that's awesome! We're so glad you found the video helpful!

[@gwynnedjackson3871]

Thank you so much for doing this. Its the best tutorial ive seen! ❤

[@skiplai1425]

Beautiful work done. Deeply appreciate it. Thank you for teaching.

[@britripley92]

Thank you so much, i couldn't figure out how to do it without needing a cover.

[@asfvvhgghbbsadat6130]

Drg

[@timking2459]

This certainly looks a much tighter and more secure way of stitching the book block than just kettle stitches at each end.

[@manuelanecula9789]

The best explanation and view , wonderful video!!!!!😊

[@umbrellajune]

Thank you for another lovely tutorial! I am sooo glad I found your channel! :) Many more videos to watch. Taking it slow, one at a time. :)

[@fjolliff6308]

Drat! I thought I was smart and invented a new bookbinding stitch... I guess I'm only as smart as whoever created this masterpiece of a binding!

[@Alex-rf8sx]

I was needing this so much, thank you 💐

[@debbismith-moore8940]

That was *really* cool! Thank you for sharing! 😊

[@ThePreservationLab]

So glad you enjoyed it!

[@MalenaWt]

This is very helpful, thank you so much!

[@m.duraipandithenmozhi8162]

Your Presentations. Very Good Teaching Book binding works. Thanks Ayya Vanakkam

[@vikiheya]

Hello, I do not speak English, so I am writing through a translator. I wanted to ask, what is the disorder between the holes? And what method would you recommend for stapling the book? Thank you!

[@ezereis10]

Thank you for making this clear, so elucinative! Its a great work! People, I need some advice, I have problems to work with a lot of thread, because I am doing a 15 section notebook and passing all the line by each one of the holes is very time consuming, also creating undesirable knots is very possible.Can anyone suggest any technique to work with so much thread or something to help me? Thanks!

[@longkorts]

how long of a thread did you use for this? how do you calculate how much you need?

[@linaasp5750]

Thank you so much for this excellent video! First time I ever saw this type of chain stitch.

[@marialuisapulidodiaz7191]

The best tutorial!!!!

[@JaimeEnriqueGomezRueda]

Al igual que tú deduje mi técnica de cosido de libros, ya hace algunos tiempo hice un libro artesanal y hice la misma técnica o similar, y me dió risa por qué tú técnica es impecable hacia afuera pero complicada en el centro jajajajaja y la mía es un mierdero hacia afuera y bonita en el centro, entonces me dió de nuevo risa por que haveces la vida no es como queremos, y hallar ese ideal de equilibrio es tan complicado. Buena noche.

[@winterlude100]

So I tried this several...many times tonight. This is first time I used waxed linen thread, but I really couldn't get my stitches to stay taught like I can with a pamphlet stitch. My loops kept disappearing so I started making them bigger lol...kudos to you and your small loops lol! Any advice on the stitching?

[@ThePreservationLab]

One thing you could try is sewing both the top and the bottom at the same time. You'll need two needles, but some people find this easier to get better tension.

[@aanchal3502]

Insert a pencil or something thinner than that so the loops won't disappear

[@KathleenRenninger]

Thank you so much; a very clear explanation, both visually and verbally. Seems to be a lot simpler than Coptic, but accomplishes the same thing; the book opens flat. My only problem: I got gaps between each signature. What did I do wrong?

[@ThePreservationLab]

Some gaps are natural, since there is not adhesive. If you are using larger groupings a pages for your gatherings/signatures, then the gaps will naturally be larger. But if the gaps are larger than they should be, this could be a result of lack of tensioning as you are sewing. Make sure that you are pulling your thread tight (while being careful not to tear the paper) with each link, but also at the end of each gathering/signature. Hope that helps. Happy sewing!

[@Smile7865]

What do I do if I run out of thread?

[@thefitz3932]

This was a great question idk why it hasn't been answered but I googled it bc I need to know for an upcoming project "If you run out of thread, simply tie a knot at the exterior of the book block. Cut a new length of thread, and tie a knot at the end, and pick up where you left off, sewing until all of the signatures are connected."

[@Needassistance]

Tie it off. And thread your needle with new string and pick up where you left off in the next stations hole

[@marcelomatos26]

Hello. There is a very good knot which is the weaver's knot.

[@agustinsida8877]

reflect on your actions

[@ThePreservationLab]

As @marcelamatos26 mentioned, we use a weaver's knot. Four Keys Book Arts has a good video on how to tie a weaver's knot and also shows a lot of the written resources that cover the knot: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmHYpZWbrrR_q8ksi=tsIusx_Nb4Uh8nJV We generally prefer to do our weaver's knots on the insides of our gatherings, especially if we're doing an exposed sewing binding.

[@xo1304]

Glad i found this thanks

[@stacey_love]

love this video! would you recommend this stitch for a book that has 32 signatures? or is the chain stitch not strong enough to hold that many signatures? thank you!

[@ThePreservationLab]

For a larger, heavier book, then you might want to add a supporting element like linen tapes. You could use this video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYLJi4uEitqBpbc) as a basis, but incorporate linen tapes (like this www.talasonline.com/Linen-Tape). The French Link stitch offers support in a similar way to the chain stitch, while the additional of incorporating linen tapes that extend past the edges of the text block and can be placed under the paste down of the case will reinforce and strengthen the attachment of the binding. For reference, here is another video that shows sewing on tapes (kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3Pbi6Nuha95aNE) - though they are using a sewing press, which isn't necessary. We find, you can mark the placement on the tapes on a piece of board and then use some blue painter's tape to attach then to the underside of the board so they don't move as you are sewing (a little impromptu sewing press without the top piece). Hope that helps!

[@HM909]

So clear and helpful! ❤

[@diceyDM]

any idea how much thread to have on hand? (ie what is the length of the thread I should cut for this binding?)

[@ajiyusliana]

Same question, waiting for the answer

[@reco7234]

You gotta have about the length of your book x the amount of signatures you are going to use, count one more signature so you have a little bit left by the end

[@ThePreservationLab]

We generally recommend the height of your text block/book x number of signatures/gathering, plus a couple extra (at least two or three, just to be safe!).

[@lara5croft]

What kind of paper is recommended to use? I bought watercolour paper and will have 50 book pages. But I imagine they will be hard to keep folded.

[@ThePreservationLab]

It really depends on the intended use of the book. If you want to create a notebook for watercolors, then watercolor paper is going to be the route you want to go with. But yes, it will be more challenging to manage and fold. We recommend, with any paper you use, pressing it under some weights or a stack of books, to compress the paper, before you start sewing. In general, we use Mohawk superfine paper for most of our purposes, it's a nice, general use paper that's easy to work with: www.colophonbookarts.com/paperboard/mohawk-superfine-paper?rq=mohawk

[@youarebymyside]

Chain stitch when bookbinding: when you don't have enough challenge as it is.

[@marioferreiravilanova3416]

I love the end look of this. Definitely gonna try it. I'm wondering about what happens if you run short of thread though. What's the process then? Or is it required to have enough thread for the hole binding?

[@ThePreservationLab]

Having enough thread is not always an option. Sometimes your book is too thick/big, and sometimes you just run out of thread! We use a weaver's knot when this happens. Four Keys Book Arts has a pretty good video on how to do a weaver's knot and the written resources for where to find a weaver's knot: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmHYpZWbrrR_q8ksi=X7RlTXb65Z1NBg7z We generally prefer to do our weaver's knot on the inside of our gatherings/signatures, especially if we are doing an exposed sewing binding.

[@marioferreiravilanova3416]

​@@ThePreservationLabThanks! I ended up doing a version of this but with 6 holes and 2 needles, one for each set of 3. I found that doing it that way I almost never run out of thread and since there is only one single loop per needle, there are less chances I mess it up. Thanks for the recommendation on the weavers knot!

[@AlbertoPerez-gj5vj]

Thank You for teaching...

[@tayseir.16]

It's amazing🤍 thank you for sharing us🤍🫂

[@panchaksharisubramanyam8677]

I love it, thank you👌

[@neuzamaria8412]

Excelente trabalho parabéns queria eu um desse

[@perimetroprimitivo5734]

Buenísimo, muchas gracias

[@LosPeregrinos51]

Thank you. Can see why you recommend curved needles. Next time . . . .

[@giovannascotti488]

Great tutorial! Does this method work just for 5 holes?

[@ThePreservationLab]

Yes, definitely. The number of holes doesn't matter, as long as you have a kettle stitch at either end. I guess the minimum you can have is three, and there is no maximum. Happy sewing!

[@mohmedmohmed-lg2ki]

Thank you 🙏🏽❤❤❤

[@Annc1ta]

AMAZING!! Thanks a lotttt!

[@artgoyle]

I just wanted to ask why a bend needle was used, when at 5:57 it all makes sense...

[@neuzamaria8412]

Ótimo trabalho parabéns 👏👏👏👏👏

[@pkiley111]

Hey where do I get this special kind of needle??!!! It looks curved in one spot only

[@ThePreservationLab]

It's actually a straight needle (something similar to Colophon's darning #3 - www.colophonbookarts.com/binding/straight-needles) that one of our assistant conservators put a curve into. We prefer to make our own curved needles instead of buying curved needles, as the ones you buy typically are impractically for our use, and they're quite easy to make! All you do it take a pair of plyers, hold the needle over a gas stove or a torch, heat up the needle, and then with another pair of plyers carefully round it into the shape you want. This can take a couple of tries, but it generally doesn't take very long as the needles head up very quickly.

[@pkiley111]

@@ThePreservationLab thank you! I'll give it a shot.

[@Tr1nity_155]

thanks, this worked

[@mysequineye8805]

Where can I find a needle like that? I love that is not fully curved. Thank you.

[@ThePreservationLab]

Jessica actually curved that one herself. It's a standard straight bookbinding needle - she heated up the needle on her gas stove at home, and using two pairs of pliers, bent it into her desired shape. Super easy to do yourself!

[@shild0608]

So beautyful

[@sameash3153]

Based and bookpilled!

[@neuzamaria8412]

Sensacional demais trabalho 👏👏👏👏👏

[@malisehargrove8971]

If I wanted to add a cover, would I just start with that and continue as usual?

[@ThePreservationLab]

If you wanted to add a cover like a Coptic binding, then it's best to follow a Coptic binding tutorial from the beginning. BUT, it is on our to do list to create a case binding tutorial video which would compliment this one nicely.

[@mursa46]

If we want to install a thick cover after completing this process, how can we do this?

[@ThePreservationLab]

It is definitely on our to do list to make a video on how to create a case binding!

[@saffronknitworks]

What is Coptic stitch then? I'm confused now after seeing this. If this is Chain Link stitch which looks very similar to what I have seen referred to as Coptic Stitch for years. What is the difference exactly? Please help. Thank you

[@ThePreservationLab]

Thanks for your question! Within the bookbinding community coptic is generally a catch-all phrase that refers to this type of sewing and generally includes the covers being attached via the sewing. Within the conservation field we do not use this sewing type to attach the boards, we only use it for sewing the textblock of a book - so we call it a chain stitch. Within our field a "Coptic binding" refers to a historical era of bookbinding. Here are some examples from the Morgan Library: www.themorgan.org/collection/coptic-bindings

[@saffronknitworks]

@@ThePreservationLab thank you for the answer.

[@pedro4lola640]

Any tips on not bisecting the thread?

[@ThePreservationLab]

Unfortunately, I think it happens to all us. Perhaps try punching your sewing stations with a slightly larger awl? If you increase the size of the hole you are creating then you are making space for both pieces of thread. Also, you may try using a more blunt needle. Colophon's #18 and #20 are good options (www.colophonbookarts.com/binding/straight-needles), but you can find similar ones at chain craft stores, they just may break more easily. Happy sewing!

[@marriannadougherty7408]

Does anyone know how to add a cover to a block of signatures like this video has?

[@ThePreservationLab]

It is definitely on our to do list to make a video on how to create a case binding!

[@EngelDeVaries]

Okay i only have the standard needle no bookbinding needle so would that still work or do I need to go out and buy a bookbinding needle??

[@ThePreservationLab]

Definitely! Some of us here prefer to use embroidery and darning needles because the eyes and some of us prefer blunt tipped needles for bookbinding, because then you're less likely to bisect your thread, whereas bookbinding needles can be very sharp and are prone to bisecting your thread!

[@EngelDeVaries]

@@ThePreservationLab okay thanks!

[@timmiweber584]

Thank you!

[@Heiitsbea]

Hi! Sorry but I wanted to ask how long the thread should be :) if anyone knows

[@ThePreservationLab]

Height of the text block/book x number of gatherings/signatures + 2 or 3 extra, just to be on the safe side

[@ЕленаТрифонова-о3ц]

Спасибо!!!

[@neuzamaria8412]

Arrasou 👍👌

[@antoniocaringella243]

PERFETTO

[@alicejohnson9080]

How do you determine the number of holes per signature?

[@ThePreservationLab]

It's totally the based on person preference, though three (a kettle stitch at either end and a center stitch) are the fewest you can have. We chose this many because it was easy to calculate and because of the size of book.

[@selcanabdullayeva5794]

when i can add more thread when it is needed?

[@ThePreservationLab]

A weaver's knot - Four Keys Book Arts has an excellent video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmHYpZWbrrR_q8k Though we prefer to do our weaver's knots on the insides of our signatures, especially for exposed sewing books.

[@Sandracanella1]

cuanto de hilo calculas para coser?

[@ThePreservationLab]

altura del libro x número de reuniones o firmas en el libro + dos o tres más, por si acaso

[@dghjnbuu]

🎉

[@vanderliconceicaodasilva7692]

❤👍

[@rk9479]

wow

[@FauziaRahman-g6x]

Thread kon sa use karein?

[@ThePreservationLab]

www.colophonbookarts.com/binding/colophons-best-linen - 18/3 thread weight, plus bee's wax applied

[@Lilica_59]

😱😱😱❤

[@Amirhosen-gw2sb]

Jast WOW😯😯😯😯😯

[@igor_rodrigues53]

DO NOT BISECT THE THREAD!!!

[@ThePreservationLab]

Truth! Haha

[@azizacherif1497]

واو

[@xo1304]

Glad i found this thanks

[@dghjnbuu]

🎉❤