Sewing a Historically Accurate Hocus Pocus Cosplay- Making the Stays (Corset)

The late 17th century is a sadly ignored time period when it comes to media- so let's dive in to what fashion would have actually been worn in the age of pirates and other spooky things with starting a historically accurate Winifred Sanderson cosplay!
TLDR: those Halloween pirate costumes you see everywhere are missing the mark. And about 10 yards of fabric.
Our first video is all about 17th century stays- the predecessor to the 19th century corset. So let's take a look at how this garment would have been made (completely sewn by hand!). It's not a sewing project for the faint of heart- one might even say it's a little bit scary! No to the bad Halloween joke? Ok, then. Who's ready for some stay-making ASMR?
Socials
Instagram: / silk_and_buckram
Tiktok: / cloche_call
Patterns of Fashion 5: shop.theschoolofhistoricaldre...
Fabrics
Beetled Linen: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
Silk: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
🖼 Pirates, 1697: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pr...
🖼 The History of Witches and Wizards, 1720: wellcomecollection.org/works/...
🖼 Pieter Nason, 1671: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Ca...
🖼 Fashion Plate, 1687: collections.lacma.org/node/20...
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)

[@bernadettebanner]

Nicole: somehow manages to make hand sewn stays look fun and pleasant and easy instead of their actual soul-sucking, finger-destroying reality 😵😵😵

[@SarahBent]

It's an art. Stays are up there with a hoop skirt under the category of "more construction project than sewing project"

[@fifithehuntress]

Bernadette Banner and no thimble, 🥺

[@JenInOz]

@@fifithehuntress I noticed that too

[@knittingmoose]

Is she?!?! Is she not wearing a thimble?! She's making my hands hurt watching!

[@SorceressKana]

A wild Bernadette spotted!

[@MissKimberlyKullberg]

“You can use zip ties” is Nicole for “store bought is fine too.”

[@curiousfirely]

This just got me thinking - can I make stays out of zip ties and duct tape? I am HERE for women's support garments made from hardware store materials.

[@emilyporter1186]

@@curiousfirely I feel like you def could. Tho it would probly be quite sweaty and uncomfortable lol

[@acelibrarian]

You can also take apart bamboo sushi mats to imitate the more historically accurate reeds. :-)

[@sillyjellyfish2421]

i have learned that even better than zip ties are those tapes used for packing big palets. you know the tape that is melted onto itself? for securing carton boxes in transit? or the stuff that holds together big piles of newspapers? in my work we get a lot of stuff shipped using that so i started taking some of sufficient size and strength home specifically for this purpose

[@svetlanagayares4307]

@@sillyjellyfish2421 that's called postal (or mail tray) strapping, and you can get about 500 feet of the stuff for $50 online, if you aren't getting the lengths you need from your deliveries. Widths and colors differ, but usually they're black, white, or yellow.

[@ashleyfoster4316]

Came for the hocus pocus, stayed for the stays.

[@morganabernathy-warner5904]

#Same

[@TheStitchess]

The 1690s is usually overlooked because it was a very transitional time period so regular people were wearing all kinds of different shapes all at the same time BUT I feel like that actually gives so much more room for experimentation and tailoring outfits to fit a character’s personality? There were so many little trends that happened around that time that you could do SO MUCH with! Yet movie costumes still look the way they do 🙃

[@orionsbeltonthesestars]

I think it may be because producers don't trust the average consumer to be able to recognize and differentiate between fashion trends other than sweeping strokes between wide time periods, and a large variety of trends/silhouettes confuse them??? It's still really disappointing, annoying, and frustrating though. Give us accurate period dress, Hollywood. Do it.

[@ariftintime]

Now I really want to see more pirate/witch mashups. About to be discovered as a witch by your town? Run away to a life of piracy! Pirates needing to seek witches to help them find treasure or to escape from authorities! So many options to explore!

[@NicoleRudolph]

Well, those are some great TikTok video ideas!

[@sanityisrelative]

I would read that book.

[@karaknight386]

I'm here for that story. Multiple seasons syndicated on @netflix plz. 🍿🍿🍿

[@brennag7962]

My next D&D character! haha

[@rx500android]

Sounds amazing omg

[@VirtuallyViktoriyan]

The scariest part of this Halloween costume is you being able to push a needle through all that material without a thimble. Pretty sure you’re a witch! ;)

[@NicoleRudolph]

It's a skill! I use a thimble occasionally, but I grip rather than push so it just gets in the way unless I'm sewing through iron-level fabrics. And 30+ years of sewing calluses help.

[@riannedeinum3458]

@@NicoleRudolph Don't let Abby & Bernadette catch you ... ;-)

[@AbbyCox]

Rianne Deinum she’s the exception to the rule 😉😂

[@katwitanruna]

Nicole Rudolph I’m with you! Until I ran across those little black leather thimbles I’d never been able to use one. I taught myself to sew when I was eleven (I blame Laura Ingells Wilder) and am now 59.

[@katherinemorelle7115]

Abby converted me to using a metal thimble, and now I can’t imagine stitching without one.

[@oliviaharris1245]

consuming children's souls but make it historically accurate

[@lydiashanklinroll8912]

Watched Hocus Pocus last week and was thinking, "Gee, it would be fun to do a historically accurate version of the Sanderson sisters' costumes..." I'm so here for this!

[@yochanan770]

Me too.... me too.... my wife has been watching Bernadette Bammer and now she picks apart all of the movies I like to watch .

[@ethanallen6898]

i was just watching it a few days ago and messaging my friends about the historical inaccuracies! i just found this video today and im so glad im not the only one annoyed by it

[@jayneeojeda5677]

how did it take 5 days for this to show up in my feed, doesn't youtube know that this is peak content?!? I learned so much during this, thank you!!

[@frugalfemmecarole6517]

I am so stoked to see a historically accurate Winifred Sanderson! All the time and attention that went into the stays. Wooo. This is why I only sew things from the 1930s- 1950s. 😆

[@gerileemakes]

I've noticed when you are in some type of costume with full hair and such, your face nearly because unrecognizable. It's like magic. I love how these stays turned out. They are pretty craftsmanship wise but not fancy aesthetically. Almost rustic. At home in a pumpkin patch or collecting herbs in the forest for potions.

[@ebschust]

What an incredible level of attention to detail, from your sewing to your explanation, to your filmography! Can’t wait to see how this project progresses, especially with your own stylistic touches. I also realized, because of this video, that stays are so much more structured than corsets, which is really funny when looked at from a modern perspective. (Corsets are evil, and whatnot)

[@piperevelyn2446]

Oh I'm so excited that you made a channel, you are such fun on Abby's so it is great to see what you will come up with. Those stays look amazing but also the amount of stiches used... My fingers hurt just for imagining doing something like that.

[@lynn858]

I could have explained why Bernadette Banner traces patterns net - because the stitching line allows for better accuracy than matching up seam allowances. But it was only having it explained to me again here, that made it clunk into my brain that this is equally applicable to my own projects once I started to venture outside of quilting. At least if I do this I won’t have to figure out how to cut more accurately. Because that seems like an insane ask.

[@michellebyrom6551]

The old Burda patterns didn't include a seam allowance, catching out a lot of people. Expensive fabric, cut a whole size too small was common. Watching the seamline being chalked out on the fabric before cutting makes everything seem so much clearer. Pattern matching would be a doddle just because it can be seen before cutting. So obvious once it's explained. Only taken me 5 decades to get it.

[@amyhannon3034]

ASMR is not my jam, but it turns out I REALLY like hearing the paper sounds of manipulating this fabric as you worked! Also, damn that background music sounds incredible ominous.

[@leventdhiver]

Yup, I even got sleepy at 11pm when I usually go to bed at 4am.

[@jacquelineb9487]

I loved the fabric sounds and music - so relaxing. I could hear Abby screaming over the fence telling you to use a thimble and you screaming back no.

[@TheBmweed]

I absolutely love how much detail you've gone into here - the whole thing was so relaxing and informative! I'm on my 2nd watch now. Can't wait to see the rest of your witchy-wardrobe!

[@DawnOldham]

The wig at the end transforms you into an entirely different person! I love the stays and all the historical information included. It’s nice to be reminded that fashion is slow to change, with several styles still being worn as tastes transition. I’m subscribed and look forward to seeing all of your skills outside of your wonderful shoe design!

[@ninegreydaisies]

I really love this concept of taking a pop culture reference and making the historically accurate version. Super cool and fascinating.

[@SilverXeno]

This is like a lifelong goal...but my little ADHD brain is like..."I'll definitely get you started, no promises you'll ever get to finish..."

[@kendall7041]

so excited about this project! I've always interpreted the Sanderson sisters as having been living an already extended life by the time they're hanged, especially winnifred seems very elizabethan in style, that maybe their clothes are supposed to be about a century behind in style.

[@NicoleRudolph]

Her costume is actually loosely based on late 19th c Aesthetic dress. Look up John Singer Sargent and the Lacy Macbeth beetle wing gown! That era in art was heavily inspired by medieval works, but the designs are quite modern! I'll try to talk about that in the gown video a bit. Winifred is sort of a mashup of a few centuries when you break down details.

[@kendall7041]

@@NicoleRudolph oh interesting! I super look forward to the rest of this video series, as well as your channel over all! You're always a welcome presence in Abby's videos!

[@devoragray3357]

This video (and garment) is the perfect example of why fashion fashion can be poisonous if consumed too often. I look at all those stitches and am blown away. I’m envious of the satisfaction that must come with finishing a lovely outfit meant to last a long time. Nothing like forgetting what shirt I bought last week online and shipped overnight. Long-winded way of saying, thanks for documenting your ideas and adventures.

[@Em-sq6hm]

I absolutely adore 17th century fashion! I’m so glad to see it finally get some love in the costuming world! I can’t wait to see the rest of the ensemble!

[@FlybyStardancer]

Your stays were so awesome! I can’t wait to see the rest of it!! And I love seeing the big whip stitches where no one will ever see them. :D I hear others talk about that being historically accurate, but it’s nice to SEE it too!

[@smurph4959]

I've just gotten into sewing and yesterday I thought I was the business after sewing a hexagon flower thingy for a card 🙈 This is amazing and really inspirational 💗 Hand sewing is so relaxing, it forces you to slow down. Thanks for sharing 🌼🌸🌼

[@EnchantedRoseCostumes]

This is so good! Thank you for delving into 17th century! It is such an awesome period that gets pasted over so often. Looking forward to more Hocus Pocus goodness!!!

[@KawattaKuroRaikou]

I can honestly say that this is the exact project that I have been researching for the past two months. I am still in the research part of my project, as you stated a 'sadly ignored time period' indeed, but I shall be following along for inspiration.

[@connieh3348]

Yes!!! Another short waisted person! I'm also so excited you started a channel and that your first video is a historicaly accurate hocus pocus! I mean what more could you ask for.

[@garrettrobinson3826]

the 1690's are how my Pirate Witches novel concept can still win, huh?

[@amiejo]

Yay! A new whole channel full of Nicole! I love your guest appearances on Abby’s channel, as well as your AD videos, so I here for whatever you share! I personally think we teach history the wrong way, separating Europe and the Americas instead of providing context by teaching what’s going on concurrently in different places.

[@annelewis7531]

I have so enjoyed watching you make these stays and learning more of the history behind their development from what had gone before. Thank you

[@morguegremlin6226]

Oh no, another channel that will be releasing videos while I'm at work! My workmates are already concerned about how excited I get to watch Abby's videos 😂 I'm so looking forward to watching more though. I love all the information and beautiful hand sewing!!

[@sunriseeyes0]

Oh my goodness, this video has EVERYTHING I love: history, witches, pirates, sewing!!! Ahhh!!! I basically drooled the whole time. Thank you so much for making this video and sharing it with us! 💗🙏🏽

[@ah5721]

I now need to see a pirate witch historical drama set in the 1600's !! All that hand sewing without a thimble is making my finger ache! so gorgeous!!

[@clarestebbing2901]

I learned so much from you. Thank you for your intelligent content. Totally get the distinction between stays and corsets now. Loved your fabric video for AD also. Cant wait to see more.

[@TealCheetah]

Video idea: show us all your stays and talk about them??

[@88hhg]

The whole time I kept thinking two things: your house/sewing room is AMAZING and holy crap, I am soooo impressed by all the hard work you put into those stays! Wow! So excited to see more.

[@lornadavis476]

I have to draw the stitch line AND the seam allowance. Otherwise I tend to forget, and cut ON the stitch line. Lol! Too many years of using modern patterns, I guess. Looking forward to seeing your Winnifred.

[@TheMetatronGirl]

Holy Cannoli!! I was your 18th subscriber, and you’re now at 1.8K!! Woo hoo!!! Historically accurate Winnifred Sanderson has to be one of the best things EVER...Although your Lazlo might vie for the spot. These stays are so gorgeous! Watching you sew without a thimble makes my hands hurt. I used to grip the needle, rather than push, like you do, but RA ended that. Using a thimble actually allows me to sew again! (Thank you @Abby Cox) I genuinely can’t wait to see the rest of this costume. Thank you for sharing this wonderful video, be well, and have a beautiful week.

[@amywhite7890]

whenever someone does 17th century costume, I have no choice but to stan

[@sarahmwalsh]

It's so neat to hear you talk about how certain things about these stays surprised you when, you were so accustomed to the 18th-century staymaking order of operations! The smooth covered versus visible channels transition is really interesting. Why do you think the fashions changed in that way, from structured, boned bodices to boned underpinnings+draped bodice??

[@peachesandcream8753]

My guess is convenience. Europe became richer overall so the change from built in bodices to draped gowns could be a sign of opulence and more gown choices. If every gown you wear needs to have a built in bodice every time it's made then that takes far longer to make than just a gown that goes over your structured underwear; so you could have more gowns for less time spent to make one structured boned gown of the past. You'd also have less to carry if you went travelling since you would have needed to bring a bodice to match every skirt while switching stays to undergarments meant you only brought one or two. That's just my guess though.

[@NicoleRudolph]

It's a very complex shift in fashion from what I can find, but it seems to be based around trends in art! It was so sudden and unusual that the tailoring trade declared that the mantua wouldn't catch on at all and would fade out before long. Guess it didn't! I'll talk more about it in my next video!

[@sarahmwalsh]

@@NicoleRudolph very cool, I'll look forward to it!

[@AdelaideBeemanWhite]

Come little children, I’ll take you away, into a land of enchantment!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Thank you so much for sharing all these details. I loved seeing them on Instagram, but to be able to follow along in PoF5 as you do this... yay!

[@eflarsen]

the music really helps make this video aesthetic-spooky! love your video and can't wait to see what else you have in store for the strange, wild world that is costube.

[@hannahcollins1816]

I don't know if you're a Christine Mcconnell fan but it was kinda giving me similar vibes to her background music!

[@s.maelstrom]

I love this even just because the entire base of my story is the fact that the salem with trials and the golden age of piracy happened at the same period, more or less, so I feel seen

[@michelelommasson5970]

What a fabulous video; thanks for having us along as you construct your stays. I loved watching your handwork, and definitely enjoyed the historical tidbits. I look forward to seeing more of your videos.

[@lorrainetresnak7761]

Yay welcome to KZbin Nicole! This was absolutely fascinating. I'm not a sewist at all, not even hems. You know that repair on that skirt on Abby's video, with the white thread? Yes that's me! However, I love history and I just love watching how all those garments were constructed and altered over time. Can't wait for more to come! 😊

[@elisabethvictoria7095]

The stays turned out so wonderful! This video is such a gift as I'm currently working my my way through a 1680 pattern of stays my self. Can't wait to see the upcoming Videos😊☺️

[@NicoleRudolph]

Thanks! It was a long, but fun project. Good luck!

[@annetteandhercrafts]

Congrats on starting your channel! 🎉Thread waxing has been the biggest 2020 sewing revelation for me. What a difference it makes! I must thank the costube community for the enlightenment.

[@silvergypsylady]

Awesome. Beautiful work on creating the stays. I enjoy watching all the different eras. I'm more into late Victorian and Edwardian eras. When it comes to witches, I wish they would stop making them evil, some of us are really very nice. 😉🧙‍♀️🧹

[@anniesearle6181]

One of my ancestors was a stays maker in the 17th century. Its really interesting to see what he would have done on a day to day basis

[@debbiewakeland1353]

So glad you have a KZbin channel now!

[@mrsgingernoisette]

I began to watch her older videos, the talent and range and beauty and sheer intelligence of this lady is jeeeezz SO IN LOVE.

[@SeerWalker]

yessss, more 17th century love!

[@Chibihugs]

What a delightful video. I loved seeing the texture of the buckram and the same was a nice touch to watching you sew them. I also enjoyed the history behind the how and why is was sewn the way it was. Welcome to costube!!🤗

[@101Tribal]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Finally a tutorial about 17th Century stays! You made my day! Can't wait to see your other videos!

[@tylerscrivner7784]

I looooove when people take the time to do historically accurate interpretations of fantasy characters. As a scenic designer I've had several opportunities to observe costumers work at a distance, but I'm always surprised at just how much work goes into a single garment, especially if it's a period garment.

[@sophiek.4343]

Congrats on your channel Nicole! Really enjoyed your research and the shaping and sewing over a ham. Take care 💜💜💜

[@GaraksApprentice]

This is project hilariously well timed for me. At the start of the month my brain went "you know what would be fun? Winifred Sanderson, but make it historically adequate. And in the men's fashions of the times." And then I fell down a deep, deep rabbit hole. Oh yeah, I've never sewn anything historical before either. 😂

[@melissascripts]

I was wondering about this topic when I caught part of Hocus Pocus one evening last weekend. So excited to see what you will do with it. Don't forget to bewitch your stitches, Winnie.

[@cuppa.books.]

Now I have to watch Hocus Pocus 🦇

[@NicoleRudolph]

It is the season! And despite the costumes being anything but historically accurate, they are so fun!

[@agypsycircle]

Nicole Rudolph From what I remember they were intentionally trying to do a mishmash of historical styles because it indicated how long they’ve lived. They were ‘killed’ during the Salem witch trials, but they’d been sucking the life from children to stay young for quite a while longer!

[@Risaala]

I really like your sewing tips integrated into this video! Could you please, in a later video, show your "not knot" that you begin stitching with in more detail?

[@joiadevita]

What an awesome debut! I’m so excited to follow this project and see where this channel goes.

[@margotdieu3932]

I am in awe of these stays!

[@petergaskin1811]

Stays... Does exactly what it says on the tin. Makes sure everything "stays" in the right place.

[@Clowreader]

One of my takeaways, other than Nicole is a genius, is I need to buy more pins...

[@rejoyce318]

One of mine is that I need scissors like Nicole's - they look like they can cut through anything!

[@JoannaLouise200]

Your intricate, swift, co-ordinated dexterous stitching is like watching a beautifully choreographed ballet...so graceful!

[@rhondamast3441]

I am eternally in love with hand sewn stays. 😍

[@OliNoel]

17th century is the most underappreciated time period imo!

[@jenniferold-dentremont6698]

I really appreciated all of your construction notes and comparisons with later stays. I'll definitely be back for a re-watch if I ever try this era for myself. In the mean time, it made for lovely sewing accompaniment. I found the long construction monologues quite soothing and good for keeping me in my own tasks.

[@TinyAngryCrafts]

I’m so excited to see what else you’ve got up your sleeve! Cheering you on with stitching, and with recording+editing!

[@jenniferhill5375]

With my aching fingers & Winter, I’m avoiding those stunningly beautiful stays, even though I lust after them!!!!! It would be great fun if Rudolph brought me a pair, but HIGHLY unlikely! However, I’m able to admire yours & your MAD SKILLS! Gorgeous!

[@KbatzReviews]

Great history and attention to detail - Can't wait for the rest of the series! 🔮😁👍

[@laurawestenra]

I LOVE YOUR DECOR! So excited for you and this channel !

[@sandeerawson1248]

Your skill, knowledge, and infinite patience just boggles my mind every time I watch you work. Amazing woman you are!!

[@sayjay198080]

Very excited for your channel and more costume/historical goodness. Can't wait to see more.

[@annbrookens945]

You caught me at "Winifred Sanders"! I'm very interested to see the rest of this outfit! Subscribed!

[@kelfae]

That was fascinating to watch, thank you for taking the time to show us! Can't wait to see more

[@AnimalVegetableMineral]

Happy to see you make a channel! Love your style and content, looking forward to more! :) (this sounds so generic I DON'T KNOW HOW TO SOCIAL I'M SORRY!)

[@ReisigSeeds]

I love this woman. Shr makes mistakes, her edges are shaggy and she uses a modern machine. I feel like I can relate to her. Bernadette is just too damned perfect.

[@ecologicaladam7262]

My goodness... what an amazing amount of work!! A great project...

[@stephaniecarnahan7866]

The stays are done so well, it blows my mind that it was hand sewn. It treally makes me want to sit and hand sew something.

[@emmamarentette]

I really enjoyed this, I learned so much watching you construct these. Also, I absolutely love your shift and the fluffy volume of the sleeves. - shuffles away to make yummy 17th century shift -

[@shellsbellswac1]

This is absolutely stunning! I love how passionate you are about this untouched time period in shows! You're so right!

[@redwoodcottageart]

I love these, amazing work. I love that you told us the amount of time it took you to make. When I first began sewing I did not understand how long it was actually supposed to take, so I always I assumed I was monumentally slow compared to other seamtresses. 😆 (KZbin has definitely cured me of that self depricating thought! Lol) I'm so excited for more content. 🥰

[@polkadot8788]

That is such an easier alternative to binding pass with bias binding. :o

[@aimsical285]

I was actually JUST thinking about this yesterday, and then what turns up in my suggestions but this! This makes me so very, very happy.

[@KattGothica]

Love it!!!! So glad you have a channel and pls I can't wait for more.

[@knittingnerdess7321]

I love this! I've been thinking about adding Winnifred Sanderson to my cosplay list anyway, but you're inspiring me to consider a historically accurate version. I can't wait to see what else you create for this outfit!

[@badmemoryneko]

Love this. My fav times aside from the mid 20 century its definitively transition times where they're discoreving a new garment that will be really popular in the next decade, so its SO amazing seeing this stays get made.

[@bearji9510]

Love this project. I've been looking up details about fashion in this precise era for the exact reason you bring up, of it being both the height of witch paranoia as well as the golden age of piracy. That you opened up with this fact was surprising but it certainly let me know I stumbled upon the right videos!

[@robinsiciliano8923]

I am stunned that somehow I’ve never watched this until now AND the amount of work that went into those!!! Watching you wrap the tabs and stitch the edges and then line up the other side ….. holy smokes!! Dedication

[@wingsinthewood]

I can't wait to see the rest of this cosplay! Also, I loved the audio in this video. Listening to the sounds of your sewing was so soothing.

[@agimagi2158]

I got so excited when I learned that you have a KZbin channel now! I really enjoyed this video, especially that tip about knotting of the thread was really helpful, I never thought about that!

[@annaj1056]

Wow! _So_ _much_ _handstitching_ Loved it! I also just watched Hocus Pocus a couple days and would have preferred a more HA version in the costuming :) yay 90s lol I was quite happy to add your channel to my (small) list of subs yesterday after Abby mentioned you made one. I enjoy all the antics on her channel!

[@AshLG]

These stays have been on my todo list since February and its so helpful to see you going through the steps of putting them together

[@BlackRavenD]

I'm so glad you finally started your own channel!! I love seeing you in Abby's videos, so excited to see more of you in your own videos!

[@samanthawilliams9710]

I love this!! So excited to keep watching your sewing adventures!

[@4MaryJaneInsane]

Congratulations on your first video, Nicole! This looks soooo time intensive... Chapeau!!! I especially love the buckram You used, it makes the garment look so much 'older' already (even if its only on the inside...) :)

[@nataliexbrutality]

I am feeling this mood so hard! Thank you for sharing.