Shaper Cross Slide Support

[@JackmanWorks]

Just had to say it's great to have you back Cressel. Looking forward to seeing the cast iron experiments.

[@Makercise]

Thanks buddy.

[@callindrill]

Whatever you do next, I will watch it. Love your stuff, man.

[@pghcosta]

I'm anxious for this to work. Do not take too long to finish, please! I'll wait for the next video!

[@tobhomott]

Start casting iron now, and you will immediately want to redo the lathe and shaper in CI! ;) There were actually a couple guys on the alloy avenue forums a few years back working together on tweaking some of the Gingery patterns with a homemade iron lathe in mind, but I think life got in the way or something and it never happened.

[@danharold3087]

Maybe do the mill in case iron ?

[@bobully9337]

Dave Gingery worked in Aluminum because it melts at a much lower temperature and was easier to work with. Working with iron will be more challenging.

[@RustyEast]

I have finished my shaper, and I've had to show everyone I know this awesome machine. I'm so proud of it.

[@Makercise]

Rusty East congrats.

[@mtslyh]

Cast iron first then definitely the mill.

[@smokeyaallday]

Good to see you back to working on the projects!!! 💪

[@PracticalRenaissance]

The shaper is coming along nicely! If you get into casting Iron, I'm definitely interested in seeing that!!

[@bexpi7100]

I *really* want to see the iron casting.

[@ziopoe]

Who needs a mill when you have a shaper! Cast iron for sure and would like to see some upgrade on your property too.

[@PiotrSarnacki]

I think it might be better to somehow attach the sandpaper to the surface plate. I heard that lapping parts that way can wear the surface plate when abbrasive particles get underneath the paper. Btw. awesome work on the machines!

[@ronaldnickell6110]

If you get into cast iron, an excellent source of cast iron is from the disc rotor on disc brakes. Every mechanic shop has disc rotors, that have been replaced. However you should add some ferro-silicate to the melt to get good gray castings that are machinable. The cast that is white is too hard, you want gray cast iron.

[@RFMongoose]

Both of these things are valid (iron and the mill.) Personally use be fascinated to see the mill made from iron, like a grey iron mix.

[@pgs8597]

G’day Kressel, I’ll go with Dan, cast iron first then make the mill from cast iron, you’ll have the Shaper to bring it to dimension. Great work on the Shaper though. Cheers Peter

[@spud4ever290]

Please, continue on with the mill (may I suggest casting the 'bearing' surfaces - such as the lathe bed, in cast iron for wear properties, should you be considering "going hot" ?) !

[@Makercise]

Looks like things are headed that way.

[@spud4ever290]

@@Makercise See that, hunker down and KEEP YOUR FAMILY SAFE! Have plenty of gas (both gasoline and lpg for camp stove cooking - electric probably crap out)?

[@centurialinc]

Awesome work! Keep it up! I want to see you cast Iron. Then do the mill with cast iron. Best Matt

[@runliftthrow217]

I will definitely vote for the mill.

[@danvandertorre9280]

do the mill in cast iron but make it bigger than your drill press 2 x and don't for get to stress relive the metals after working them .you have a good channel .

[@kevinevans5189]

Yes please do the mill that is what I want to build as well

[@watahyahknow]

just looking at that slide , it might be a good start for a mini surface grinder usually you move the stone of the surfacegrinder down to meet the part you need to work on , this i think will be eazier as you can use a stock benchgrinder mounted on top of the rail holding the slide , gives less moving parts and i think makes it eazier to construct hmmmm need to move the slide in and away from the rail too....... darn

[@Altcapball]

I've seen several instances of ppl using ferrosilicon to convert scrap steel (with a mixture of pure cast) to "recycle" steel into cast. Although ferrosilicon is standard in industry, I have to wonder if it's really the only suitable silicon source for small scale.

[@aubreyaub]

Ferrosilicon, improves the flow and texture of cast iron. By itself, added to steel, does not make cast iron. A small addition of copper, also does the same thing as Ferrosilicon., Sort of!

[@mrman991]

Cast iron would be amazing, I've been thinking about doing the lathe but it being aluminium seems like there'd be a lot of motion in it. If I could build it in cast iron, that'd solve that.

[@IronBridge1781]

I would love to see you work on an iron casting foundry. I hope that website and book I told you about is of some help in that regard.

[@henrikhv5084]

how about to do a mix build? building the drill press as a mill in cast iron? ;-) no, just an idea, but not the Gingery way. by the way, what software program do you use? kind regards

[@Makercise]

Fusion 360

[@joseluisgonzalezguerrero9883]

Saludos Ing..buen modelista buen tecnico en fundicion buen mecanico felisidades. ☺🤗🤗🤗

[@jonnoMoto]

The mill in cast iron?

[@jonathonwood4088]

I'd love to see the mill in CI. I want to move into iron too, not so sure about it yet though.

[@JBCreations2650]

Tip: When countersinking, turn down the RPM as much as possible. Great video!

[@Makercise]

Jonas Bandier I need to make an intermediate pulley. I pretty much leave the drill in “low” gear. Anything over 3/8” 10mm gets hairy as well.

[@ManCrafting]

Seems like it's been a while since I have seen a video. Have I missed some? Hope things are going well. Are you coming to Atlanta Maker Faire or FabTech?

[@Makercise]

Yes, but my brother in law has been dealing with some medical issues. Took some time away from video production to help with that. I also spent a fair amount of time with my son who was out for the summer from school--I couldn't find a summer camp that I felt would help him learn as much as staying home with me albeit for an efficiency hit. ;) Probably not Maker Faire this year, maybe fab tech. WorkbenchCon in the spring though.

[@jasonclark1149]

Hope all is well with your family, and glad to hear you got some quality time with your son! That said, really excited to see a new video, and looking forward to the followup. Cast Iron, and then the mill!

[@stemer1149]

Great video. Now that the shaper is nearing completion, have you contemplated using it to partly work on some of the remaining parts ie somewhat building itself. In some forum I have seen pictures of a Gingery build where a provisional toolhead was used to make some of the remaining parts. Gingery does it for the table if I remember correctly.

[@Makercise]

I will be using the shaper to machine its own table.

[@woozhi9218]

Why cold rolled instead of got rolled mild steel which is better

[@Cactusworkshopchannel]

always a pleasure to watch!!

[@benvinson4328]

Cressel, glad to see you continue on with this project. I wish I could support you on patreon - maybe someday. I had a random thought about your casting technique - What would the raw casting surface look like if you applied a layer of clear packing tape to the foam before you added the plaster? I know the plaster would be super smooth right up against plastic packing tape after using Grant Thompson's flowerpot foundry tutorial - I was able to de-mold a plastic bucket from the inner wall of the bucket & the plaster was as good as glass. Not too sure how the pour would go considering the casting would need to breath ie the gases from the foam still need to go somewhere ... really curious. Thanks man.

[@Makercise]

No problem regarding Patreon. Glad to get support from those who can, but totally understand its not possible for everyone. Keep an eye out for the work table video. It may answer some of your questions.

[@tankkiler308]

Lost foam casting suggestion, paint it with investment. It makes much cleaner smoother parts and helps prevent sand collapses. I use watered down drywall mud.

[@Makercise]

Yep. investment coating is critical. I wouldn't do lost foam casting without an investment coating. I use plaster of paris. I haven't tried drywall mud but maybe I will.

[@tankkiler308]

@@Makercise ahh i didnt notice if you had them coated or not my bad

[@CapitaoColhao]

Sorry if I missed something but what happened to your house project?

[@doctorzoidberg1715]

I believe it got to cost too much money so I believe that he gave up on, as it was no longer affordable to do so

[@Makercise]

NamelessHombre I put a roof on to slow deterioration. I will put out an update on it but not in the next few videos.

[@JCSalomon]

There are a few really good forums for metalcasting (AlloyAvenue and TheHomeFoundry.org are two I can think of off-hand). Come on over, read the amazing “Anon’s Tutorial”, get feedback and advice about your plans for a new or upgraded iron-melting furnace. Then build the mill in cast iron.

[@GypsyRewind]

Great job !

[@romo4301]

Amazing project and very cool video! :-) Great machine

[@mannycalavera121]

It'd be cool to cast a little replica Bridgeport (hand sized) to sit on your table.

[@JCSalomon]

The Gingery mill is a horizontal one. Maybe after the drill press project, a clever machinist might figure out a way to make a vertical mill, but I suspect that’s going to stay out of reach of hobbyist builders.

[@pinkponyofprey1965]

What happened to the termites in the house you kind of bought? :D

[@Makercise]

PinkPonyOfPrey I guess they moved on. Full tummies and all. Update coming this fall.

[@63256325N]

Thanks for the video.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I video, and a great project.

[@Imaboss8ball]

Casting iron doesn't have to be done separate of the mill. If you build an oil burning furnace to melt iron it can also melt aluminum extremely quickly. You can do both on the same day.

[@Makercise]

My wife told me I have to pick one project, finish it, then move on. LOL

[@Imaboss8ball]

@@Makercise yes but casting iron isn't a project. It's a means to an end. The oil burning furnace would be a week long project maybe two. Once done you cast anything you want.

[@leeknivek]

it took me over a year to perfect burning motor oil for aluminum at 1700F. it is an art more than it is a science, and will definitely take more than a week of tinkering - and cast iron requires a .... little bit more. if one knows what they are doing, it should take about a week to construct a pre-planned oil-capable, iron-capable furnace that is worth using. anything less than that, and you have a lot of R&D time on your hands.

[@askquestionstrythings]

+Makercise +Atrixium I've heard it too, 'just one project'. Currently working on a trommel build, looking forward to the day when I'll get around to a furnace/foundry project.

[@mdminar3092]

I am very very happy for tutirial

[@khalidkhalaf5153]

cast iron , yes please

[@JMGDIY]

Nice, new video.

[@d.barclay2305]

Cast Iron! Mill In Cast Iron! Lager Lathe in Cast Iron! Larger Shaper in Cast Iron! Then Keep Going!!!!!

[@leeknivek]

i've done a bit of casting and a bit of forging...... cast iron is a whole different animal than aluminum. cast iron means no more propane, and on to motor oil. motor oil means messy, smelly, carcinogenic, heavy metals, hassle, annoying...... but when it works, it works well. i am not saying this to dissuade you, but as a fair warning: using motor oil to melt iron is not for the faint of heart. i haven't melted iron, but i have burned a couple hundred gallons of motor oil melting other stuff. you will need an expensive, heavy crucible. you will need an expensive, heavy furnace. you may need a crane, or at the very least, a partner. the bare minimum for a furnace is a few courses of red brick _mortared_ together with a blanket of cerawool and a stainless steel liner. this will struggle to reach temp and probably last 2 or 3 good melts. one of my first iterations was red brick buried in dirt. i had the _dirt_ glowing red by the time i was done, and the red brick had shattered and bleached and crumbled. this was at 2000F. :) figure on 3000F temps for your iron as a minimum rating for your furnace. you will need kaowool, refractory cement, and a refractory hot face - satanite, ITC-100, etc. for something of this scale, you may as well buy a whole 80lb bag direct from the supplier of both refractory cement x2 or x3 and hot face lining x1. fire bricks will help add refractory mass for less, but you still need a mortar to bond them. if your furnace is rated for and refractory enough, you can achieve 3000F temps. you'll probably need about 2 gpm of motor oil flowing in in order to meet that requirement, perhaps more. i only ever melted aluminum and some bronze with motor oil. motor oil generally has a flash point of around 400F. this means that your entire surface area of the furnace will need to be preheated to that temperature before you can begin burning motor oil. you can preheat with propane or with kerosene. i recommend cutting your motor oil with diesel, kerosene or gasoline - safest to least-safest, respectively. you need to find and construct a consistent, reliable burner. don't settle for the "Kwiky all-fuel", tough to tune. go out and spend the $100 to get the delavan adaptor and nozzle for a typical home-heating furnace and the necessary plumbing. there are video tutorials available on here and elsewhere online. alternatively, you can use the drip method, which works well, but can be finicky depending on how you constructed it. you need to balance cold air + cold oil inflow vs. atomization vs. btu output. _adding fuel reduces btu output. adding air reduces btu output_ it is an extremely fine balance that has to be maintained throughout in order to increase in temperature after your preheat. oil is engineered for keeping engines cool, after all. it sucks heat. you can figure on a bare minimum of $500 to get yourself into iron melting capacity with success and consistency - and you still need the iron, to boot. old furnaces/boilers are a good source, perhaps your best, as not many things are cast iron anymore and if they are they're too expensive to justify melting down. many boilers will have a cast iron firebox which is a durable iron (you'll see if you ever try smashing one up!). it is generally about 1/4" to 3/8" thick, and a single scrap furnace will net you a couple hundred pounds. if you live in the northeast, they are plentiful. you will have to deal with dust, soot, fiberglass, [[[asbestos]]], and the stink of diesel, but they are a good source. that's all i got right now. i can answer any questions you have - i have run a variety of different homebrew motor oil operations and melted my share of metal and vaporized more than my allowance. good luck.

[@بابليون-د9ش]

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[@VenomousHobbes]

wooooooo