Sharp GF-9595 Boombox Rubber Pulley Replacement

Pulley had turned to goo. All of the goo must be removed with Q-Tips, tissues, or whatever else works and isopropyl alcohol. Care must also be taken not to lose the little washers. Replacement was made out of plastic tubing. If it is not grippy enough, it can be lightly sanded with sandpaper. One could probably also use medical silicone tubing since it is grippier--if it can be found. Since this stuff isn't really made any more, experimentation is called for.

[@artemvsprime]

Hi, just wanted to say thanks for this tip. I bought a Sharp GF6000 cassette recorder off Ebay and it was chewing tapes. The idler had gone to goo and I had no idea that it would ever be possible to fix. After watching this, I bought some RC fuel line (2mm x 5mm) from China and installed it, following your instructions. Worked like a charm. It seems to be a common problem on the GF range as well as some Sharp tape decks from late 70s to mid 80s.

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

thanks for your comment and glad you got it fixed! you are correct: all of these rubber pulleys probably turned to goo.

[@codebeat4192]

Fantastic, I saved my GF-9191! Done it a little differently, I used a piece (approx 5mm) of a plastic screwpost of a case molding and sandpaper it before installing. Works great! Thank you for the briljant idea. Tip: clean everything again after installation, it removes dirt and oil leftovers and gives better grip/tension on the plastic of the capstan.

[@abdorrahim914]

Thanks a lot sir, I was having the same issue with Shrap GF 9090, and used some 2.5mmx5mm fuel pipe, I can say it is working well.

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

Great! Good job! I just picked up a GF-9090; seems to be SOST like the GF-9191. Thanks for commenting.

[@DagmarOttevangers]

Thank you so much for this video. I had the same problem and it's working again. Do you happen to know what could be wrong in case of a left speaker giving only static? (I reconnected the connector of course ;-) )

[@StormCentre88]

I have one of these (Sharp GF 9000) and it needs a new woofer, perhaps also a new tweeter. Actually, (notwithstanding the costs) perhaps it makes sense to upgrade the entire transducer set. The GF 9000 has been an excellent boom box that both, has lasted through the ages and I used all throughout my teens, 20s, and then it served duty in my shed for years where it got used every night; as the shed was also a gym. For ~20 years it worked reasonably well and got hammered; mostly playing in the 50% or greater volume range. When the CD era really settled in (it coincided with the cassette mechanism failing, so) I plugged the portable CD player in the back and used it for another decade; which is probably how the woofer eventually started to fail. After the CD era I routed the same 2 into 1 cable (used for the CD player) into my phone, and off it went; until only just recently. It has only just been now (30 years later) that the system has finally rendered itself unusable; with only 1 channel working at less than full capacity. So, I now use it as a pre-amp to a pair of JBL LSR 25P's in the shed. Any help on replacement parts would be appreciated. At least one side (woofer and tweeter) is gone, and also the tape playing mechanism doesn't work anymore. So if anyone knows of an original and/or good/better set of replacement woofers and tweeters (and output transistors) for this system, and also can advise of what usually is required to repair the cassette mechanism; that would be appreciated.

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

Thanks for commenting. Never had one of these; seems to be an awesome unit. I really don't put different replacement speakers in myself; I normally just wait for a donor unit to come along. Don't know about your unit, though. The cassette mechanism thing is always the same: replace belts, clean head and capstan, demagnetize if possible, clean record/playback switch. You will have to search for videos on YT if you want exact instructions for your unit. I may have made some videos for other Sharp GFs.

[@johnvernon6328]

can you make a video of the tuner cord at the back on the tuner wheel, I need to restring mine thanks

[@josekanjippadom9825]

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[@RoughJustice2k18]

Thankfully Sharp stopped using rubber take-up idlers / pulleys in their deck mechanisms after 1985/86 (they used gears instead which tended to be a bit more sturdy and reliable as more cheap supermarket branded tapes became common). Be thankful the boomboxes you had didn't use those awful spring-loaded idler pulleys which break and fall apart so easily such as the type found in some National RX model series.

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

Thanks for all the history and the useful info!

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

thanks! have you tried swapping the speaker connectors? they are both the same. that way you will find out if the problems is at the speaker or in the machine. were the speakers working before?

[@DagmarOttevangers]

Speakers are both working when I hook up my iPod to the phono jacks (although the little lights on the front for the left channel don't work). When using the tape deck, only the right speaker works. The left one sort of works for 2 seconds (but not optimal) and then converts into static. Slightly bizar: yesterday after posting my first comment, I cleaned the tape reader, screwed the thing back together and everything worked. But today, no left speaker when playing a cassette. Not sure this makes sense.

[@DagmarOttevangers]

(Oh, and the little volume leds for the left channel were working as well yesterday)

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

ok, as far as i understand it, speakers both work when you connect the ipod and listen to the radio. if that is the case, then we know the problem is in the cassette section. what you should do now is clean the record/playback switch with contact spray. have you repaired electronics stuff before? the switch will be a long switch underneath the cassette mechanism--it doesn't look like a switch which you use with the hands. i'm just writing this because i don't know how much experience you have. spray in there and work the switch back and forth--there is a spring in there. contacts could be dirty. also spray the headphone jack (work the headphone plug in and out right afterwards). spray all of the other switches too like the function switch (phono/radio/cassette). in fact, spray all switches and the sliders on top. you should do always do this on such an old machine. also, if you get electronics contact spray, get the kind with lubricant in it.

[@DagmarOttevangers]

Thanks a mil!! My experience with this stuff is very limited, but one has to start somewhere, no?Now that I know what a pulley is, I am UNSTOPPABLE :-)Will let you know.

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

that's right, don't be afraid. and it is a nice machine; good quality, good sound, and it's got style. pick up or order your contact cleaner, then go from there. if you are lucky, that might just take care of it. keep up the good work and good luck!

[@stefanBEAR98]

Hello, Sir. I am a diy. I appreciate your videos when you come up your own solutions. Did the rubber pulley end up working or you had to further improve?

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

+Stefan Thanks for watching! The pulley works good, but I think it is not perfect. Perhaps some kind of medical rubber/silcone tubing would be more grippy. I think I may have also sanded the tubing a little--it's been awhile.

[@stefanBEAR98]

Thank you for prompt reply. I almost ordered a new hall effect sensor, then I came across your video. It made sense to first address the rubber. Even with the home made rubber in place I still couldn't get a sustainable torque on the take up spindle. For example, the idler wheel would turn off the capstan ok, but would barely engage the take up spindle. I think I either have a worn out tire (even though is not visible damaged), a week spring to the idler, or the linkage to the play key is slightly bent due to age. I would replace the tire first before i cut the spring shorter. Looks like the tire is about 22mm. Would you know if these are still available. If not how about a home made solution.

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

+Stefan You can try and use an "o-ring." The original part is no longer made. Or try to sand the idler tire if it is all shiny.

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

+Stefan also, there is a seller in Germany that sells the complete kit: belts, pulley, and idler it seems. I think think the seller is called "phonohifishop."

[@user-vh6cy2jm9v]

How speed?

[@olezhekmerkunov3151]

Hi there,My father had one of them long ago. I would very much like to purchase one. Could you possibly assist me in that? Do not have whole lot of money to offer but maybe we could come to some compromise. I am in AUS.

[@OldSchoolElectronics]

hello: I have no ghettoblasters; the ones that i did have were part of my personal collection at the time. to make space, i sold all of them.