Shipping Container House Framing

[@DominicUbble]

You need a thermal break between the wood studding and the metal. Moisture sweat on the inside of the metal that makes contact with the wood will cause rot. You should have left a space between the wood and metal for the closed cell insulation

[@aldoovercomer5473]

Exactly my thoughts....Maybe some thin sheets of insulation first, then the framing?

[@IntenseInvestor]

30 pound felt paper @@aldoovercomer5473

[@coryhalling1614]

How are you attaching 2x4 to walls ? Adhesives, screws from outside, ect....

[@jacquesdm2382]

3:27 he says he glued it to the shipping container.

[@strive4impact]

Really good tip about starting at the top of the wall with the drywall to have the just-in-case drywall at the bottom. Very nifty tip.

[@mariaemilianegron]

I got me the container last year I own a piece of land in Orlando Florida and I am up I'm about to start making my trailer my lovely home thank you for all the information God bless you

[@aidans1045]

Can we get an update?

[@TheMessenger212]

You look beautiful give me an update on your progress

[@shannondelima3028]

Update? I have a container build in Central FL.

[@containableliving7642]

Nice job there, I'm getting ready to break ground with my shipping container home in Dania Beach, FL. Mine is going to be a 3bdrm 2bth single family home. I'll be posting the process on youtube. So stay tuned

[@wakeupamericaandresist2413]

Great job, I did mine with 1 1/8 metal studs on the exterior walls and 2 1/2 on the lids and interior walls. 5/8 rock exterior and 1/2 everything else. Worked great and was cost effective for me where I live.

[@randybobandy9828]

But how are you keeping it cool or warm with only 1.125" of insulation? It must be incredibly inefficient.

[@johnlile7562]

Nice job of framing. Haven't ruled out a small storage container as a cabin myself. My concerns in CO are with the water vapor and condensation, some put insulation on the outside of container along with another wall that may or may not be vented. Of course this adds to costs. But plenty of options for insulation these days which are a huge improvement over fiberglass batt. It would also alleviate any concerns about wood being placed directly against the metal on the inside.

[@marcosaurelio9497]

Yes I Seeing your vídeos from Brazil Learning How to built my container home. I Will built in the country tô escape from polution, crimes and Corona rs Very Nice!! Thanks Brother

[@dutch1777real]

Yes, absolutely important is to address the condensation and humidity issues for this build, and you did that. We have a small home made from a lofted barn (780 ² ft without lofts) and dealt with the condensation and mold issues as we realized them... About to add on with a 40' high cube shipping container (we have one already for a covered bridge) and I will be sacrificing space for more insulation, by having the studs the normal direction. I would totally do it your way if it were more temperate here though! We will go with spray foam too.

[@AdelaidaAgniya]

That's nice but you should have cut the sidewall hole for the wood stove exhaust towards the top of the ceiling, that way the flue pipe keeps most of the heat inside so you burn less wood.

[@randybobandy9828]

Smart.

[@MrSupercar55]

That's a very neat looking project. Here's a suggestion. Put the insulation on the outside and put some cladding over it to maximise interior space and reduce the likelihood of corrosion.

[@rosalynsookoo362]

I 'm looking to do use a container to convert also thanks for the tips

[@leipzigescobar4085]

So smart, so detailed...i feel the need to strip off my house and start fresh....but my husband confiscated the power tools from me 😬, so i must gain his trust (with the tools) and do a room at a time😉

[@rondacus]

😂😂😂💀

[@michaelacheampong2869]

The part about the husband confiscating the tools 😂😂😂😂

[@melissaa1215]

@Leipzig Escobar. There are many factors in doing a pro job. One resource I found that successfully combines these is the Magic Container Plans (google it if you're interested) definately the most helpful course that I've heard of. Check out this great website.

[@catherinegrace2366]

Leipzig Escobar my kind of girl

[@EskimoInAlaska]

I'm just loving all your videos. Sooo helpful 👍 Profitable servant!

[@fancypelusa2863]

Be sure to drive a ground-rod for lightning protection and ground the container to your electrical service. Good luck!

[@johnvinga5446]

Yes, grounding strap run through floor and attached to iron or copper rod driven into ground just outside wall of shipping container is advisable. Best to not have any of the electrical devices touch anything on the metal surfaces of the container itself.

[@sherronbennett4487]

Thanks for your input. So good to do homework before venturing on any project. Appreciated.

[@naattthhhhooooo]

How did you fix the timber to the container ?

[@j.c187]

I know it's not cheap at all but closed cell foam is the way to go for so many reasons. I wonder if a water proofing paint or something would help more if installed before foam

[@negativegiraffe2036]

nice job would love to know how you framed/sealed the window apertures

[@time4grace8]

Decrease Total Cost by making frame Wires instead of solid steel containers. Then, the walls will be acrylic insulated panels. Have you seen wire baskets or wire containers? Make that big or longer as long/big as a container height/width. The corners will be steel. We can do this! Good Project!

[@RS-vv3vb]

I would like to here more about this idea. I have been looking up shipping container houses for a while now. I am not fully understanding your idea but I think it is the same Idea I have had over the last couple of days. Please expand and break it down.

[@eddiebd1526]

I really do have to question these projects. If you have to do that much interior framing, you are likely better off just doing standard framing for a rectangular home to a size you want and cladding it in metal. 8 feet wide minus furring is not a livable space, IMO. You don’t need to have an engineer provide structural bracing for larger openings, easier to duct heating and air conditioning as well. A lot of times the costs of these finished container homes are more expensive than standard construction when all is said and done.

[@kuldippanesar590]

Nice video you could staple a vapour barrier over the frame which would hold back moisture adding to the foam plus it helps with sound deadening. Kingspan may be a cleaner and quicker option also thermally more effective but you did say your not really bothered how well it performs in my books this would take priority as in summer it would be cooler and winter warmer😐

[@knotethang]

I am learning a lot just from all these guys in the comment section. I’m attempting an off grid container home myself in Northern VA any resources would be greatly appreciated or build advice

[@YourLasVegasAesthetician]

Thermal Bridging is definitely important when framing out unit for residential use. Bottom line is that condensation most definitely is an issue with these things and have the studs directly attached to the container itself with no foam behind kinda scares me. How do you approach this? How we frame them out actually leaves a gap between stud and wall though your style is most certainly saving internal space.

[@jaredpaul2225]

A like your framing out and insulation 👍👍

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

There's a chance someone will run a screw into the wiring. I think I would run the wiring in conduit and surface mount it. This would allow anyone to make changes in the future. The studs could probably be 2x2's or 2x3's and spaced 24 inches on center. This would reduce thermal bridging.

[@borys444]

Totally agree being it’s a partitioning wall to begin with.

[@ArtisanTony]

This will work where you have no energy code. You only get about 4.5 R-Value out of the foam in this configuration. A lot of new energy codes are calling for R-19 in walls (R-13 even where no energy codes) but the framing looks good. The best way to keep moisture down is to make sure you have a mini-split or another similar HVAC unit that can remove moisture from the inside air and draining the condensation outside. Nice framing job :)

[@rohmichael2894]

Smart thinking/forward thinking!

[@fflores957]

Can you do a video about your windows. Are they to the inside? Outside? How are they held? What type are they? Thanks!

[@AllThingsRamdom]

Another thing I would recommend especially if the area you live in receives decent heat during the summer is a ceramic additive you can mix into paint. You can mix it into an oil-based or water based paint and it will increase efficiency. You can also make it into an insulation paint which provides it with an even greater tolerance to heat. Due to the ceramic particles it allows for greater reflection of heat from the Sun as ceramic is an excellent insulator.

[@HoneyRowland]

Thanks for the tip! :)

[@randybobandy9828]

How is a a ceramic layer that is as thin as paint going to add any insulation value? It won't. It might be good at reflecting heat but not insulation.

[@AllThingsRamdom]

@@randybobandy9828 Because it does not allow as much heat absorption and ceramic is an excellent insulator.

[@exilfromsanity]

Unless you want to be crawling on your hands and knees to tape and finish the bottom drywall joint put the small piece in the middle. Full sheet top and bottom and then fill in with a small piece.

[@JohnAdams-xc5yk]

Not good put it at top

[@elizcringle6505]

This is the neatest framing I've seen. DCP damp proof course membrane should have been added between the wood and metal. Condensation from the metal (not covered in spray foam) will seep into the wood, rot it out over time and mold will set in.

[@wilassguess]

Yikes.....Mold and Rot.....

[@OmmerSyssel]

Only use membrane in a ongoing heated construction. Otherwise heated side of the construction will change according to the weather conditions! Try wenting the whole and use an automated dehumidifier... Regards from moist cold Scandinavia

[@freemanhughley3819]

great job and thx for sharing with us! got a question tho - if trying to maximize space, why didnt u put ur studs in the valley of the steel instead of on the peaks?

[@stevenbrown6606]

insulated refridgerated containers are another option..Hard work is mostly done...Like a big esky

[@LukasCech]

Thanks for the walk through, nice work! I wonder why not put the vertical boards into the cavity of the container wall (the part further outside of the corrugated wall) - you'd gain 6-8cm in width?

[@checkmyvevo]

You would have no middle support between studs

[@nimblecamper]

@@checkmyvevo true, you'd have to use thicker timber so it sticks out from the cavity a bit. Or, you could use steel connectors. Or you could put the studs (if by studs you mean the horizontal timber) over the vertical ones and join with a long screw.

[@darangemaster1]

i worked on a project that was three 40' containers. it was framed with mostly 2x3 metal stud offset 1/2 inch off the exterior so when the foam was sprayed in it was allowed to flow behind the studs and the steel skin.the ceiling was framed treated 2x6 on the perimeter with black paper stapled to the back and then bolted to the side of the container. we did used metal shielded wire to rope it up and dropped the ceiling to 8' to allow for attic space to install hvac plumbing and fixtures ect. i cut all the window and door holes with an angle grinder and we welded 2x2 tubing around the openings for strength. lumber was secured to the metal with screws to allow attachment of drywall and trim. they used and under ground huge pipe buried in the ground that air was pumped through to help heat and cool the building. it was outfitted with rain catchment, wind and solar as well as a backup diesel generator acquired from a military/government auction. it was about 900 square feet when complete and very efficient .

[@HoneyRowland]

Have a link to it? I'd love to see it. Sounds awesome.

[@sannajo6742]

No link you made this whole wild story up

[@JavaJoe]

Cool story bro.

[@FITA-369]

You must install insulation between the metal surface and the planks or wall covering...

[@PredApex]

Sorry I don't have a stupid suggest. Good work mate! And I have built many of these all types of ways and NONE of them have any condensation ever and i live in central texas.

[@zigggyyyc7342]

If you have the 2 by 4s flat against that metal, how did you go with getting the spray foam behind there? Wouldn't it sweat right on to the wood?

[@noctilucent7396]

Wouldn't you want to spray foam first to get behind the lumber?

[@iondetox]

I'm going to put my insulation and wall are going to be on the outside. I may use nice black wallnut to do the inside!!

[@JohnAdams-xc5yk]

You can build a stick building for less

[@robertshuler6797]

Hi Offgrid Victory! Greetings from Columbia, South Carolina (The "armpit of the south"). Just subscribed to your channel. Fabulous videos -- your workmanship and the thought you put into your work is exceptional! I appreciate your attention to detail. I would love to tackle a project like this...need courage and, of course, time. Keep up the good work and looking forward to more!

[@dougharker9913]

UNCLEDOUG SAYS LOOK'S GOOD !!!! LOVE TO SEE THE END OF JOB !!! KEEP IT UP!

[@mattssnow]

hi, this looks great. how to you fix the 4x2 to the container?

[@KellyBurnham]

Condensation will form between the metal walls and the wood studs which have an R value of about 2.1 on the flat. Why are the windows so high off the floor?

[@MarcJavier-bs8gy]

How did you atach the 2x4 to the steel? Screws?

[@HighDesertGarden]

Please tell me you didn't put that electrical wire between the metal container ceiling and the 2x4 lumber....

[@integr8er66]

Please tell me why he wouldn't. There is an opening it went through, its not pinched.

[@asciavadas5556]

Is it winter in your climate zone, how to avoid dew point, moisture between the inner wall of the container and the insulation material? Thank you.

[@OffgridVictory]

No moisture problem with foam. My floor wasn’t insulated as well, so it will condensate if I don’t lift stuff off the floor. Especially, on the tile areas furthest from my wood stove. Hope that helps👍🏼

[@b_uppy]

Why didn't you use 2×2s? The 2×4s laid flat like you did means less insulation, but more expense in framing...

[@OmmerSyssel]

Every KZbin containerHero does it this way. Seems to be the only way to use a rectangular beam 😕 Vertical mounted makes it stronger & provides suitable space for insulation. Who cares when clueless amateurs seeks fame 🙈

[@Cornfed_Off-road]

I was going to ask the same question, seems like 1x2 or 2x2 would have been enough

[@integr8er66]

If you frame the whole thing out with studs, what purpose does the container serve? You could just put siding on the studs and you would be in the same place, and probably less $$$ are you planning to move the home about?

[@Feedback4Utoday]

He was looking for a woodworking project. Another purpose is to insulate.

[@integr8er66]

@@Feedback4Utoday I know it is to insulate, but the point is if you are buying studs anyway the container part is just a waste. You have just built a stick house, now side it and call it a day.

[@phantom2226]

Shipping container means to save money, but I see you used a lot of 2x4 as for support such as insulation -- electrical hiding, etc... With that amount of lumber -- we can frame the house without the shipping container. I can see the advanced is the foundation. Pls shed some light for me. Ty

[@jonandersonmd7994]

Thanks for your info here! .. Question: Doesnt using wood framing actually convert what essentially is a 'fire proof' dwelling into one requiring 'fire protection' and associated insurance costs ?

[@randybobandy9828]

Well shipping containers already come with plywood floors so....

[@AllThingsRamdom]

It would have been more efficient if you had used 2X2's instead of a 4X4's for framing. Not only would it have provided better insulation properties once you install the spray foam but it would have also cost less. Since the framing ads no structural support at all or if you would have done it where you framed out the frames for the windows from 2X4 metal rectangular tubing welding it to the corrugated sheet metal of the container and use that same tubing for the framing of the door it would have been more efficient. Heat and cold transfer through wood is far less efficient than through the spray foam insulation. The less wood you have in the framing the more efficient it will be. It does look like a nice design! Thanks for sharing!

[@millersfloorcoatings]

I just put an old rust free vehicle into an insulated and unmodified shipping container for the upcoming 6 to 7 months of Minnesota winter. Should I be concerned about condensation forming in the container and causing a rust or corrosion issue on the vehicle I'm storing in it?

[@Subgunman]

You can also get condensation from the drywall board. It retains a fair amount of moisture which contributes to its fire resistance. I like using the blue flexible conduit to run all of my lines in. It allows for adding or changing wiring. I have used four levels of wiring within container builds, 1: Line voltage wiring, 2: low voltage wiring (12 volts or 24) 3: Television with satellite, 4: Telephone and Internet. The latter of the two I tend to run low between floor and outlets and at least 4" above where the baseboard will be nailed to. I also use a plastic vapor barrier between the studs and drywall to keep moisture within the living area and away from the metal walls just in case the foam missed a spot. Its easier to dehumidifie the interrior space instead of trying to get moisture out from behind the drywall.

[@grahamhardyvanlife5704]

Cant wait to see it finished.

[@VikingPreparedness]

You do excellent work! I would use big trim instead of a third piece of drywall along the floor.

[@jonesey1981]

can you elaborate, it sounds interesting but i don't understand what you mean? Link? Pic?

[@adelaidesky5039]

jonesey1981 he means a tall skirting board around the bottom rather than say a 100 mm 4 inch strip of gyprock

[@whitedogone554]

Just use 54" rock.

[@terrymiller5028]

I totally agree with your window positioning and how you framed the ceiling. If you’re concerned of moisture you would be better prepared to deal with repair by placing the horizontal 2x4 higher on the wall than 2feet.I’ve spent years doing renos/repairs and if you have moisture issues and only replace a few inches of drywall you create a bigger problem.As far as it being easier to replace where the old seam was, that is just a gathering point for mold in a moisture rich environment.Your sprayfoam will not seal behind the 2x4’s without pushing them away from the wall,so it would be better to but another vapour barrier behind them.Use a rim joist seal or create a small gap to fill with foam.

[@ffjsb]

I framed mine by using 2x3's framed traditionally, they were nailed into the floor, and at the top I used 2x6's that were notched to fit between the top plate and hold the sides apart. I used a 40' high cube container too. I used R-13 faced insulation in the sides, and R-19 faced in the ceiling. I'm using mine for a shop, not a dwelling, so my walls are finished in OSB, not drywall. All my wiring runs along the top corners, I dogeared the top corners of the ceiling joists to allow wires to run the length. Then I just dropped the wires down the studs to the outlets. I would've loved to use spray in foam, or maybe even InSoFast insulation, but it would've cost me at least twice as much as I paid for the container. (used, delivered) I did a video on the build, it's on my channel. Your framing does look very good though.

[@randybobandy9828]

What insulation are you using to achieve r13 at only 2.5in of depth? Fiberglass isn't rated that high. I assume you bought fiberglass meant for 2x4 walls and just mashed it in the 2x3s, unfortunately your r rating is a fraction of what you think it is.

[@cam-asherbond5316]

Man, super helpful. I've been racking my brain for space-efficient solutions to framing a container.

[@Dj-ve2hx]

Did you get the container for free or buy it because I think you could frame and side a space that size for cheaper.

[@JoshuaSwan_Raven-and-Hammer]

Since the wood still technically touching the metal, would it make sense to use treated 2x4's?

[@reginalcarrar9478]

Just wondering. If i dont want to lose any width in the container......how come i couldnt fit the studs inside the corrigation? I plan on ridged isulation on the outside of the container than side over it

[@1kiffertom1]

super job framing this! i would use some type of spray foam or spray rubber to help prevent condensation on the inside of the walls!

[@Gngrcpl]

He talked about that

[@Spectt84]

It has always been a dream of mine to get a small lot in the woods on the outskirts of a nearby city. A nice place to retreat to on the weekends and such. A shipping container cabin would be perfect. I have always wondered about the "framing" process which is what led me to this video. I understand basic construction and understand how the 2x4s are attached to themselves. What has always been an unknown to me is "what is the best way to attach the wood framing to the steel inside the shipping container?" Is the glue plenty strong enough to hold the vertical 2x4s in place which are then wedged under and support the weight of the horizontal ceiling framing 2x4s?

[@OmmerSyssel]

Let the framing hold it self in place. No need for costly welding or brackets.. Keep it simple

[@WyomingSurvival]

What kind of glue did you use to glue the 2x4 to the container wall?

[@therealmccoy70]

exactly what I was wondering. I wonder if liquid nails would suffice?

[@albertlewis]

Wyoming Survival and Tactics LLC I’m wondering the exact same thing!

[@AnMadreMor]

Have you considered thermal bridging when framing out these shipping containers for residential use?

[@avanders457]

Any details?

[@onlyinasheville]

@@avanders457 15017 Hfx is correct. His wall framing is in direct contact with the metal. To avoid this, I would put at least a 1/2" sheet of polyiso board between the wood and the metal to reduce the thermal bridging.

[@jerrysamuels8716]

This is the key to shipping container design. After you frame the container the interior design can pretty much be whatever you want it to be.

[@markdorr1474]

I luv this can a container also have membrane to also keep it extra sealed from insects?

[@davidmcneil9340]

Planning permission is simple. Just concrete block supports. Straight away you have a water tight secure environment. So you can just work at your own speed And save money.

[@wirapermanasugiarta8460]

Which one is better framing by 2 by 4 wooden fram or by metal

[@claytonjames4779]

It looks good but did you ever consider using metal studs instead

[@propertyprotocol9699]

Good Video. Thanks for sharing.

[@WadeBarmby]

Hi there, great job! How are you fastening the 2x4s to the walls and ceilings? Cheers!!

[@michaelhardy2803]

goal zero yeti 6000x lithium portable power station 200W solar 3 plants goal zero 4 Yeti Tank Expansion Batteries 10.5 kw Off-grid

[@therealmccoy70]

Did you use Liquid Nails to secure the 2x4s to the container?

[@kwametwumasi8543]

How did you install the 2x4 on the wall did you use guerilla glue ???

[@NOLA50458]

How do you properly secure your 2 by 4 lumber to the side of the container inside when framing

[@HeritageFarmsTexas]

New follower here, Nice channel and framing job. I’d love to build a shipping container cabin on our place. Nice.

[@breathless3038]

Outer insulation seems like it would be the best for this job

[@dwayneparker1983]

So, did you glue every single stud to the container? I saw that @3:28 you said there's a spot of glue behind that stud. Does every stud have that?

[@astrosecretfiles]

Why wood, and why so many? I am going to do it with galvanized steel studs directly on the concave and on iron. Doing like that the drywall would be very close to the container wall. Maybe, for better insulation, some fiberglass 4 mm between drywall and studs. And to prevent condensation, some random hole 10mm. Also, using special drywall anti mold, is going to be perfect and insulated I am going to run the cables from the outside, then cover with styrofoam panel 5 cm on the outside, and put some wood or rock layer as decoration. WHat you think?

[@sonnyvidalez9289]

Have a question....how do you fasten the studs to the container? Do you use screws? I seen tone of videos and just wonder if screws are used, and if so..does that mean the out metal side has a bunch of screws sticking out or that the metal is compromised in terms of water seepage?

[@pemghustlewomanlife6425]

I love the way you framed this! What kind of glue did you used to attached the wood stud to the metal?

[@Marvelbricks123]

Did you just glue the verts to the walls? Or screw as well? Also when you cut the windows out of the shipping container did you have to do any welding to reinforce the wall a little bit? I was wondering if the windows would compromise the structural integrity

[@truckerdaddy-akajohninqueb4793]

If you spray foam, that's what I would do, be mindful of air movement or you could end up with mould.

[@BBoxn]

Wow those windows are really high.

[@nyag1764]

I love this. Great video!

[@richardcherry664]

has anybody thought of condensation from metal to insulation, whether paperbacked, or eco friendly recycled jeans... water condensation would cause mold.. ..any thoughts???

[@greatbay1961]

Anyone who builds a house out of these is a damn fool, huge condensation factor, every valley in roof collects water and rusts out which only way to prevent is to build roof over the roof, you will never get ANY signal inside these things so if you like internet wifi forget it, then oif you watch these builds they have zero places for moisture to escape but hey if you want to waste money on a total nightmare have at it.

[@rededwards3479]

Great job. Thank you!

[@jasonkuy7100]

Have you got more video on the progress

[@heinekenboy6901]

in your framming house what are you putting like isolation

[@willbee5434]

You're going to have a lot of metal that isn't covered by foam, behind the wood; why not install insulation board up before framing?

[@borys444]

Cause the walls have valleys in them

[@andreyu18]

Greetings, excellent work, can you tell me where can I buy the joist hangers for the 2 by 4 beams thanks

[@borys444]

Home Depot/Lowe’s or any home improvement store that carry Simpson strong tie products.

[@markdorr1474]

Would foam insulation be optimum on exterior id like to know if icould also use stucco exterior

[@marianotymcziszyn5225]

Hello , excellent work dude!!!! im wondering how did you attached the wood to the metal while framming ?? did you glue the wood to the metal?

[@isaacdinardo7751]

I like the way you did this, im consider doing a container home on my property. If i do itll definitely be similar to this.

[@lennym1273]

Before you start you really should take a look at this, Top 15 Pros and Cons of Building a Shipping Container House kzbin.info/www/bejne/qma1iHaMo8iiqJI

[@robertodayso9059]

Can you use a smaller post to cut cost? Example 2X2 or 2x3?

[@chrislott3887]

What are the 2x4's for ?

[@eyeswideshut2800]

The only thing I don't like about these containers is not being able to puncture without accounting for leaks.

[@randybobandy9828]

How is 1.5in of insulation going to be anywhere near enough? Even with spray foam you're looking at a r10 at most.

[@jazrobean1]

THANKS - - been there, done that!