Shop Talk 18: Starrett Dial Caliper Fix

[@thisohiohouse7320]

I cleaned and ‘re-clocked’ an older 120A-6 set after watching. Thanks for stepping through the process, having virtual access to someone with experience and expertise makes all the difference!

[@nickdisario]

Thanks so much for this video! My father passed down a pair of these to me that he had used for a long time and I looked down to see the needle clocked at the 9 o'clock position and about had a heart attack. He passed away a few weeks ago so they mean a lot to me. Thanks again.

[@Tinkering902]

Been using calipers for 15 years and always assumed springs and tiny gears would go flying all over the room if I opened them. Today I dropped the big 12 inch starrets that are probably really expensive at work, no damage but they were clocked at the 6 o clock position, almost had a heart attack! So I googled it and your video popped up, within a few minutes I had them almost perfectly at the 12 o'clock. Thanks a million!

[@davidmorris3616]

As a noob lathe user (or soon to be when it turns up in about a week) I always find your videos educational in some way shape or form. Dont think ive watched so many youtube videos back to back 😂. Thanks for taking the time to share, looking forward to the next one 👍

[@somebodyelse6673]

The internet needs more Adam Booth. This video is just the ticket for people that have never had a mechanical caliper apart. There ARE user serviceable parts inside :) I used to clean up the shop's cheap calipers in an ultrasound tank (after removing the dial lens, needle, and face), since I could never work all the grit out of the racks any other way. The needles come off easily with a watch hand remover (cheap to buy, easier to make), and I'd just put the needle back on the shaft in the 12 o'clock position when it was all back together.

[@rwcrue]

Thanks to your video I was able to save my Starrett No.120 dial calipers. They were dropped off of my work table and would stick at 10 when I tried to zero them out. Turned out to be a broken tooth lodged in the rack. Even with the broken tooth they now work great and zero out in 12 o`clock position.

[@calenwrangoe6933]

Hey Adam, I just used this video to adjust the needle on a Starrett 9 inch dial Caliper that I bought from a new and used shop that thought it was messed up! Thanks for the info, keep up the awesome videos!

[@blakelibby2140]

This video gave me a great idea for a once a week video series... Tool anatomy! Taking apart different machinist tools, cleaning and calibration etc. Restoring old tools back to life. Overall, I think it would be extremely educational for the viewers!

[@luthiersdaughter9134]

I just wanted to let you know how helpful this video was too me, and say," thank you" I'm going through some stuff and came upon my Starretts. This was the first time I have ever needed to clean mine up. I know they have never been dropped. Because I have owned them since 1982 when I got them as a gift. I don't know what year wiha purchased starrett but it was sometime after 1982. Mine say MADE IN USA. Athol, Mass. #120 But mine are jumping. I couldn't have timed this better if I tried! Hope you keep finding deals out at the flea market!

[@stargatefred]

Good video Adam. I really like when you do maintenance and repair videos. Bill from Seattle.

[@billdlv]

Nice score at the flea market Adam. I did not know the Starrett's were built that way, good info on the fix.

[@kmitchl1]

Thanks for the video. I had a Starrett in my tool box that had been dropped. Took it apart last night and got it fixed.

[@coltius]

Great video. Did you ever make one on zeroing calipers without a removable plate?

[@bcbloc02]

On my calipers I just push the 0 button and they reclock on their own. :-) I really prefer mechanical things but the electronic calipers in the shop environment really shine for me with no lenses to get damaged or mechanisms to foul.

[@barrygerbracht5077]

Just batteries to run out LOL. I want digital ones so I can push a button and be metric or imperial, plus you can re-zero them anywhere for other comparative measures. I currently have two dial ones, one metric and one imperial. The metric ones are graphite and my stainless 8" ones don't read so well anymore (good enough for wood working still). I think something got bent. I tried to take it apart, but there definitely weren't 4 screws on top to release it and I couldn't see what else to do. I wasn't in to prying on stuff. I'll leave the hammer and chisel method to others.

[@Abom79]

bcbloc02 Digitals are my go to as well, but around my shop I enjoy using both.

[@DSCKy]

I find for some things I like digital (like doing subtraction to get a measurement). For others I like a dial (Like trying to set them to a specific dimension).

[@larryrobinson7492]

@Brian:The best thing about digital is I can see the larger numbers without having my glasses on, but I hate having to push that dang power button just to take a reading right quick. Lazy I know but it's one more step just to use a tool.

[@DSCKy]

Automatic shutoff sucks sometimes.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

Please show the other type soon. I have a 12" Mitutoyo that lost clock from a stray chip in the rack. .. though long ago cleaned and no longer jumping off clock, the dial has quite reliably remained off clock by almost 180 degrees. I do not have the wire or shim tool that was supposed to come with it. If I can see the tool and process, I can make whatever tool is required and do the deed. Thanks for all your videos!

[@experiencingtechnicaldiffi5184]

Just a large piece of wire like a paper clip with a smooth end will work. www.mitutoyo.co.jp/eng/support/service/manual/002.html Mike (o\!/o)

[@MrNubix]

Your Starret screwdrivers are actually Wiha Pico Finish. At least they look the same. Great Tools.

[@jackalishush]

Thank you! Fixed up my 120x carbide tip jaws. I would love to see the follow-up video you mentioned at the end.

[@Elektronaut]

Are these Starrett branded Wiha screwdrivers?

[@morto360]

Was wondering the same.. they look exactly like Wiha!!

[@florianf4257]

Pretty sure they are, so another member of the Starrett global series ;P Greetings from Germany.

[@alexreeve]

haha.. thought exactly the same :) they look quite like my favorite Wiha screwdrivers here... but hey they are excellent, and a good choice for jobs like this :)

[@aserta]

Those are very much Wiha. I own both (braand) sets, by chance. Besides the name, there's practically no difference. So, one could go for either if the price is right.

[@Abom79]

Looks like you guys know more about those then I do. I ordered them through work a few years ago when I got a new indicator and magnetic back. I just liked them and the price wasn't bad.

[@bobbyb7127]

I took mine apart and cleaned it and it still skipped. I put some 3n1 silicone oil on it, worked it in real good, wiped it all off with my fingers only leaving a micro thin film on and it now doesn't skip anymore. I read you are not supposed to oil them but what did I have to lose.

[@DannyJackson2529]

I know this is an old video and I watched an old video of Mr. Pete's. I guess you know how the Brown and Sharps come apart, but if not; you just remove the bezel and face and the screws are hidden under it. Thanks for the videos. I've been on disability since 2007, there making my new legs now. Hopefully I can go back to work soon, and maybe have a nice shop too someday. Take care and Thanks again for the videos.

[@inthemorrows]

A great way to clean those especially after taking it apart is wiping it down with Ballistol using Q-tips, paper towel, and tooth brush. The Ballistol will also lubricate it.

[@MitchMb14]

I bought a Mitutoyo dial caliper on ebay and was pretty disappointed I could see light between the jaws when I checked it. Now I can use it for approximate measurements but that's not what I bought it for. I wonder if I could fix the jaws by carefully removing a little material at a time with sandpaper on a flat surface until I can't see light between them.

[@rodschweiger4195]

Hey Adam, great video. Can't wait to get home and fix my Srarret dial caliper. It's been missed clocked for some time. Dosent return to zero probably just dirt. Thanks, you inspired me.

[@Abom79]

Make sure to clean them good while you have it apart. Like others have said, use a small brush like a tooth brush to clean the rack.

[@BrigidtheMechLady]

Any suggestions on how to fix a Craftsman 40164 DJ set of calipers? The needle is reading between 1 and 2 thou when the calipers are closed and I can't open them past 3.271" It feels like the pinion is hitting something in the rack, but I can't see anything. I also can't seem to find any documentation on these calipers anywhere.

[@petrocksgarage]

Should you put any lube/oil on the rack or carriage so it slides easier? If so, what do you recommend?

[@Abom79]

No lube, clean and dry. Oil will attract dust and contaminants.

[@445supermag]

I have a Starrett 120 that I bought new from McMaster-Carr back in 1986-88 when I first started working in a shop (maybe $120), I still use them all the time. I usually clean the rack with a new solder brush. One thing I have noticed is that is different from every other set of Starrett calipers is that my 120 has a depth rod that is only 0.100" wide, while most are 0.200". I really prefer the narrow rod since I can measure the depth of holes down to 1/8" diameter. I don't know if this is 120 vs 120A, or just age.

[@Abom79]

All of the American Made 120's have the A next to the part number, so I think it indicates that these are the American made calipers. The model 1202 are not american made and imported.

[@445supermag]

Good to know, maybe mine were from before there were a non-American version. My 120 calipers just have "120" not 120a or 1202, and they do say "American Made" on the dial like the 120A does. They also have much deeper stamping on the letters and numbers than the 120a. They also have a metal case with the red vinyl cover, not a plastic case. I can send you a pic of these next to a 120a if you like.

[@polakis1975]

You have nice flee markets and garage sales dude in the States. For us in Europe this kind of scores just cannot happen. With a lot of effort and money i managed to get a last word indicator and the magnetic original Starrett base. Not to mention the shipping costs and potential customs...Enjoy your new tools!

[@t.d.mich.7064]

Hey! I always pulled the rack gear out and cleaned it with a tooth brush. Something caught in the rack gear caused that needle to jump true location.

[@tarmaccowboy4939]

A special thanks for this one Adam! After watching, I thought I’d have a quick look on eBay (UK) to see if there were any Starrett dial callipers available (usually not much over here). Ended up bidding on and winning a beautiful set of 120jz-6’s with the offset jaw. Got them for £57??!! ($75). They are $500+ out the catalogue!! Looking at the sellers other items, I don’t think he realised the value in what he was selling! Result!! First job of course was to “plumb” the zero! :o) Cheers!!

[@Abom79]

+Tarmac Cowboy Awesome! I've seen the offset jaw before and know I could have used them many times.

[@PhilG999]

Totally different subject but I was in the mill supply business in the early '80s when Mitutoyo came out with their digital calipers. Used an etched glass slide as an encoder. Slicker than hot chicken fat on a stuck doorknob. Until the first time somebody dropped it in a toolbox! We sold a hundred or so of them and almost ALL of them came back! The only one of them I know of that worked after a year was the one that lived in my desk drawer! Granddad (Lockheed Machinist, built B-29s) taught me how to take care of tools when I was about 5...

[@Abom79]

Yes sir, take care of them and they will last. I hate to say it but all the guys I work with, they do not handle the tools like I do. You usually find both the mics and calipers intertwined with tools and junk on top of the lathe or work bench while they are working. Drives me nuts.

[@PhilG999]

Yeah man! When I had my machine shop classes in college (BSMET) I picked the oldest LeBlond lathe down at the end of the row. All the other guys fought over the newer machines and never got the same one twice! Cleaned up "Blondie" and ran some oil around (I learned how to run a lathe in HS shop but didn't tell THEM that). Shop instructor came over (Retired Navy Machinist) and said:" Why did you pick THIS machine?" I said: "Because nobody else will bother her until I get back tomorrow. The barrels for the turnings are right behind me and the tool room is ten feet away.":)

[@tracylemme1375]

Mitutoyo may be as good as any, but for some reason B&S and Starrett are the best for me. Thanks for pointing posting these videos. I am sure many people learn a whole lot from watching these.

[@Soczeknb1]

Could you please show how to take apart the Brown & Sharpe dial caliper like the one you have in this video

[@ColKorn1965]

I have Brown &Sharpe calipers I bought when I started work in 1985. Never had to recalibrate, but the tips of the jaws are worn, so I just use them around the house. I have to readjust my Mitutoyos almost weekly. Don't use them much for that reason.

[@SteveSummers]

I know how big a 6" set of dial calipers is, I use them every day.. when I seen you pick them up I was thinking they must be 4" but I think it is just those big mitts of yours :)

[@Mtlmshr]

Adam, I had a Mititoyo 6" caliper that had a hole on the top that you could put a pin in and it would push the gear down and you could basically clock the gear tooth to any place on the rack. Of Coarse it would move in a nominal degree amount (I believe it was 25 degrees) at a time. Have you seen this in other calipers?

[@Dontmakemereregister]

Bonus points if you can get those screws in the Monday after a weekend bender!

[@philipiano001]

Just fixed my 120A! Many thanks. 😊

[@elluisito000]

Hi! Did u apply some abom torque on those little screws? :D

[@shanek6582]

You mentioned a way to fix different kinds, do you have a video of that? I just got a 4" mitutoyo and it clocks at 7:00 closed, it's driving me nuts.

[@heikopanzlaff3789]

The other ones: Use compressed air to blow the glass of the dial. Go to a watchmaker. They can take the pointer from the shaft with a special tool in a second and put it back to the designated position. Pop the glass back on- job done...

[@shanek6582]

@@heikopanzlaff3789 after this post I figured it out. I flattened a small wire and you can shim it in between the small rack and pinion, then move the calipers closed. Messed around with it for a few minutes and got it clocked perfectly. Thanks for the suggestion though, I didn’t even consider that.

[@moms762]

I have a Browne and Sharpe similar to the one you showed but shorter. It doesn't return to zero or to the same point every time. Sometimes it might be plus or minus 1 to 2 thousandths. Any ideas ?

[@experiencingtechnicaldiffi5184]

That is probably dirt or grit in the rack causing the gear to jump teeth I would guess it happens more when moved fast. If you open it up all the way you can inspect the rack for dirt before you take it apart. For the ones that don't have the screws, you remove the end stop and slide them apart. Mike (o\!/o)

[@ToolTalkCanada]

At 3:20 you talk about calipers like the Starrett 1202 without the four screws and said "there's other ways to fix these other ones" and "that's what I thought I was going to show you today". Did you ever do a video about the other type? I picked up a 1202 for $10 at a garage sale today, but when the jaws are closed the dial is pointing down at about six o'clock. I've been reading online about using paper clips and shims to reset the dial to 12 o'clock, but I can't get it to work and I don't want to damage anything. Thanks.

[@Abom79]

I never have shown the "shim trick". You have to shim the rack and slide it up to close. I hear its bad on the gear to do it that way though.

[@ToolTalkCanada]

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm following the instructions below for the "shim trick" (found here: forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/power-tools-and-machinery/recalibrating-dial-caliper-mitutoyo), but it's not working for me. Maybe it doesn't work on the 1202. "you may need to get the gear driving the pointer to intentionally skip some teeth on the rack to get the pointer vertical when the jaws are closed. To do this you will need to make a small tool out of some shim stock or a soda can. Cut a 1/16" wide by 2" long strip out of the thin metal and put a slight downward bend in the strip about 1/4 inch back from one end. "Now move the head of the caliper down to the middle of the bar and slip the strip in behind the head just over the rack with the bent tip down so it is against the gear teeth of the rack. Now, if you move the head toward the strip, the gear on the head will ride up on the strip and will disengage from the rack. You won't be able to see this, but you'll feel the drag on the head as the gear runs into the strip. Move the head a fraction of an inch further to the left so that the gear will skip a few teeth and then pull out the strip, allowing the gear to settle back into the teeth on the rack. "Now close the jaws on the caliper and see if the pointer is at the twelve o'clock position. If it isn't, just repeat the procedure until the pointer finally settles into the right engagement. Getting the adjustment right is a "hunt and peck" process that may take several attempts, but with a little practice you will be able to reset the caliper in just a couple of minutes."

[@ToolTalkCanada]

After farting around with shims and paper clips for a few hours yesterday, I definitely wouldn't recommend this method. Maybe it works on other calipers, but it didn't work on my 1202 and I eventually tore the shim and had little bits of aluminium stuck in the rack. I ended up taking the caliper apart to clean it. When putting it back together I left the screws out of the rack, then disengaged and reengaged the rack and the gear several times. I think it was mostly dumb luck, but I eventually got the needle back to 12 o'clock and the calipers seem to be working fine now. Just thought I'd share my experience here in case someone else is having the same problems. Cheers.

[@darrylmay4510]

For small screws such as those you are dealing with, place the screw on the screwdriver and with same hand which is handling the screwdriver, place one of your fingernails under the head to the screw and apply pressure. This will hold small screws in place and allow you the line up to the hole with one hand while the other hand steadies the work.

[@Ujeb08]

Hey Adam, I have 2 starrett 120A calipers I acquired more than 25 years ago along with their original red leather cases. After watching this video I remembered them and that the dial was "not clocked". I took them both apart and found with both that the pinion gear had broken teeth on them. Do you know where or how I could get the gears replaced ? Thanks.

[@paulmanson253]

Ujeb08 Contact Starrett? Send them back for repair ? Not sure of other good options.

[@jamesstanlake4064]

So the key thing to look for and have are the screws (4) on the front part of the dial body to re-clock the needle?

[@leebarnes655]

Not at all, they ALL can be re-clocked. Some require a different method though. In the worst case for example the gear rail can be unscrewed and slide out along with the indicator part if need be - and I doubt this much work is actually needed. Looking at my chineseium $20 HF ones I see that to be clocked properly I need to show .050 when the edge of the indicator part is half way over the first hole of the gear rail. It can be clocked upon assembly if you know that in advance. Thanks Adam, I knew what I had to do a few seconds after the reveal under your dial face. What I can't fathom is how to do it with a shim or pin as I read in other comments, will be watching for further info. And top notch content as always.

[@jamesstanlake4064]

I understand the calibration part and if it is assembled from parts there has to be a way to disassemble. I do find it useful to learn how to calibrate it on your own. That is one of the things I like best about Adam's videos, he explains things in a clear easy to understand way.

[@Abom79]

The removable top plate is just one of the design features of the Starrett 120. It's makes this particular model easy to reset and clean up. There are other methods to correct clocking on other calipers. Sometimes you can buy a good quality caliper for a good price because of the needle being off. They all pretty easy to correct.

[@Equiluxe1]

Being a horologist (watch maker) in a former life my first thoughts to set the pointer to 12 o,clock position would have been to pull the hand/pointer and re position it, something I did frequently on watches and clocks in the dim past.

[@denisohbrien]

Equiluxe1 only thing there would be you wouldn't get rid of any crud in the rack. Assuming it's the cause it would just bump the needle out again in the future. Fix the cause not the effect :)

[@Equiluxe1]

I would flush it with pure alcohol to clean it these days back then I would have put it in the ultrasonic bath of xylene.

[@mgreene939]

How do you rotate the numbers so the 0 is on top?

[@Sausketo]

where do you get school lunch trays?

[@milesmetcalfe94]

Is there any way to repair the rack if its become damaged by some stray chips? I was given a set with a damaged rack that I would like to repair as they are made in England, so I don't want to give up on them.

[@Abom79]

You should be able to get replacement racks for them from Starrett, or have someone like MR tool Repair fix them for you.

[@tom7601]

At the tail-end of the slide, I used a surface grinder to remove a total of 1" of the shield so I could use it to measure hole depth. This was about 35 years ago. :-)

[@tobyw9573]

The most important things about screwdrivers is that they fit the screw well, other thing is that they use good steel that doesn't deform or break. Making your own pin punches and screwdrivers may not be a bad thing to fill your spare time. Phillips screws and other cross points do better if you put the driver bit in place and give them a whack on the end with light hammer to make them fit better. Buggered screws can be tightened sometimes by tapping the slots closed a bit with a hammer then tapping the bit in for a better fit. Nothing gives good purchase in a stuck screw like a tight bit, and the time to get it right is before you damage the screw. Of course buying good ones in the first place works too. :)

[@moshpitcircles6345]

The black end piece on mine is missing a screw. Any idea where to get some new ones?

[@Abom79]

You might try Mcmaster-Carr, or Starrett will sell you the correct hardware.

[@836dmar]

Anyone have a source for the small screws? My Starretts have a different size on top as well. Between several used pairs I am missing a couple of each.

[@CH-uu2mi]

You can order them from Starretts

[@bobbyw9046]

A toothbrush works great for cleaning out the Rack & Teeth. A little tiny bit of Remoil OR Rig#2 Oil (both gun oils) are very light and evaporate quickly but will leave lubricant behind with no oily mess to attract dust. Works great!

[@aserta]

Even better than a toothbrush (and they are cheap) is one of those gunsmith brushes used to clean revolvers. You set it nice on the track, and gently move it counter clockwise. The dirt just pops out. Did wonders for my set which fell in the lathe sump, the thing was nasty as nasty comes.

[@Abom79]

Thanks for the tips. I've normally used my solvent degreaser cleaner, pretty much just alcohol.

[@Xyz-ij6rh]

most of the time i use my Mitutoyo 505-566 Dial Caliper hes pretty clever made it comes with a pin made to fit a hole it can disengage the wheels to set the Pointer on top you just need to pull it open until the pointer showes where u want it to stick in the pin and close it take the pin out and you are good to go

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

"American Made" says it all. Good info.

[@lorenlieder9789]

Great score Adam!

[@johnc4352]

Rusty stainless steel ?

[@derkbradley7434]

Did u ever make the video on the other style calipers? I could really use that about now 🤦🏽‍♂️

[@tsw199756]

I like the Mitutoyo 505-712 calipers with carbide measuring faces. I have a pair I bought in 2004 and they show no signs of jaw wear.

[@Abom79]

Cad-Cam_Man nice, I've never had any of those, or seen them used

[@MichaelLloyd]

Handy video. I'll put it to use when I get home. My set of 120a's is 90° counterclockwise from yours and I've never liked that.

[@Abom79]

Gotta fix that. Take it apart and clean it, and clock it back right. Pretty simple,just be gentle.

[@kingranch73]

I'd love to see a video on how to fix the orientation of the needle. I've heard of guys doing it but i dont want to wreck my calipers trying to fix them. Thanks in advance

[@mmarciniak]

joshua meyers Wahhhhhh?????

[@roscocsa]

Man i wanna go to yours and oxs flea markets. I don't even like flea markets

[@sonsofmachinery2983]

Now take a .125 and a .150 gage block to check if the main gear is worn/damaged. With the .125 you'll get a reading at the 90 degree position, with the .150 the 180 degree position and with both the .125 and .150 the 270 degree position. you're looking for +/- .001 max to call it usable (generally).

[@victoryfirst2878]

I have a soft spot for American Made tools. Have 4 calipers that I got at flea markets for real good prices. Just a little work and they are perfect used accurate instruments. Plus I have four tools for the price of one. Now that is a deal for sure.

[@Bookerb2004]

Let me sum this up in laments terms, I'm long time KZbin viewer, long time sub. Stumbled upon this channel after watching a boat load of Keith Fenner's Video, when I started watching Adams Channel. my first comment on KZbin ever was "You should smile more" ... then I subbed I'm not looking back any further than that because everything going forward has been nothing but interactive & entertaining... tell me how many KZbinrs take this kinda time Weekly, after a 60 Hour week working big metal #Fuckrightoffwiththat

[@Abom79]

Thanks Kelly! I remember you showing up in the early upload days. :)

[@donpollard9460]

I like the little red tray - it's too easy to drop screws (especially that size) onto carpet and it takes some keen eyesight to find 'em again. I use angled tweezers to remove and replace little screws like these; the red dish will be be an essential addition. Why red? It makes the plate go faster ... One of our electronics stores in Australia markets a magnetic dish, which (obviously) only works on steel screws... and I have a magnet on an extensible wand to find lost screws., though obviously it is better not to lose them. Great Idea, Adam.

[@bbence86]

Sadly I'm gaining some experience taking dial calipers apart. Yours surprised me, because it seemed way simpler, than what I use at work. I've taken apart Kinex, Insize and Berger dial calipers. I wouldn't be surprised if they all were some Chinese company pretending not to be one. But this Starrett seems to be less sophisticated one. The ones I've taken apart all had two spring loaded gears turning a pinion gear, which holds the dial. This, I believe, functions like a ball screw of a CNC. Without any backlash. It was strange to see the Starrett missing this feature.

[@m.cigledy6769]

The Starrett without the easily removable plate have the design you are talking about. The ones shown in this video have a double gear with a spring between the halves (think like a sandwich, with the spring as the meat.) Both halves of the gear are the same size, and the spring is trying to rotate the halves in opposite directions against the next gear, which takes up the backlash.

[@robm9860]

Thanks for another rock solid video.

[@Lmr6973]

Thanks for the info but I can get to setat 10 off top. Gear must have slipped on shaft.

[@craig9170]

Hi Adam, Enjoyed the video but how about the Abom Music intro, its just not the same without it. Thank you, Craig

[@afroaliens]

its late here... what am i doing!! I dont even have a dial caliper!!! But now I have learned what to do when I get one! Great stuff :)

[@skirkdouglas]

I need to go to your flea market

[@DK-vx1zc]

Thanks for sharing this Adam

[@brucet9799]

At 1:41 you show the whole dial rotated almost 45 degrees counterclockwise. You never showed how you corrected that.

[@RobertSzasz]

Bruce T Just in case you aren't trolling, the dial can be rotated to allow for easy relative measurements.

[@Abom79]

That was the picture I took of them when I bought them, and showing what was wrong. The fix was in the video, removing the top plate, adjusting the needle with the small gear on the back, and lining it all back up.

[@xenonram]

The face moves independent of the needle. Once you move the needle to 12 o'clock, you can move the face after you put it back together.

[@peterxyz3541]

Thanks! Useful. I have a MIT with the same problem.

[@robertkutz]

adam very informative nice fix.

[@vieuxacadian9455]

4 decades ago and old guy showed me this and He cleaned them with alcohol and lubricated them with liquid lighter fuel same as guys did to rifle triggers.

[@XxRollTidexX]

Good video other than the fact that you can not unjust the pointer by the dial. You can only adjust the zero or the pointer by adjusting the long gear rack

[@walterjoncas12]

Thanks Adam! Love flee market.

[@adithmart]

Remember to NEVER oil your dial calipers. Oil attracts dirt...

[@Terry_Baker]

Great tip Abom!!

[@tehfade53]

There's an easier way that works with all calipers. The hand is press-fit on a taper. Pull the lens off, then use two little screwdrivers to gently pry it off, then press it back wherever you want it. I've fixed Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Mitutoyo, Tesa and more this way, haven't had a problem yet.

[@Abom79]

tehfade53 That's easier?

[@experiencingtechnicaldiffi5184]

There is a reason it is clocked wrong. Was it shock bounce or was it a chip in the rack that only affects it at a certain speed. I would rather clean it and be sure it was correct. Ask a clock-maker what kind of screwdriver he uses to pry the hands off. Now just wait until you bend the shaft or break a lens with your method. Mike (o\!/o)

[@bobbyb7127]

It's a big problem if you lose one of those screws. I almost did twice.

[@Landrew0]

I don't like to buy things from pawn shops, because there is likely some pain involved with how they came to be at the shop. Either they were stolen, or someone was so far down on their luck that they couldn't wait to fetch a fair price by selling them privately.

[@scottsinfl]

Cool fix.

[@ChadHHC86]

120A much better than that Starrett china crap, the only problem I see is the single engagement of the movement causes the dial to jump and the backlash to be more than desired (starrett used to spec the backlash to less than 0.6 division if over non repairable), also an acid brush cut to half length make for great rack cleaners. I am a Mitutoyo person but I also prefer a digital caliper to dial. Also, the Mitutoyo 505-645 has the same basic design but I believe they have an access slot and a "key" to easy reset, just don't go gorilla on it, they bend the retention spring fairly easily and lose all repeatability unless you take them all the way apart.

[@Abom79]

ChadHHC86 Yep several have mentioned the Mitutoyo style and how the user can correct the dial.

[@egx161]

Very little info on dial caliper repair. Thanks.

[@run-cnc]

My starrett caliper was garbage since day one. The Gibbs were undersized and had too much side to slide movement causing binding... not to mention the grind of the anvils were terrible.. Drove me away from starrett.. mitsutoyo or bust.

[@ellieprice3396]

Nothing wrong with Starrett. You had a bad day and a bad set of calipers that someone had abused.

[@DomManInT1]

A real machinist can not only machine parts but fix, repair or modify all of the machines and tools. Keep working at it. Some day you might get there.

[@ellieprice3396]

In that case someone at Starrett had a bad day and saw you coming.

[@xenonram]

Ellie Price Another person who bases things off of ONE SINGLE experience. Lol. That makes sense. Derp.

[@run-cnc]

Any company that can let that get through QC isn't worth my time. You guys clearly arnt professionals if youre willing to waste time repairing brand new tools. Mitutoyo is 100x better product and has yet to let me down after the tens of thousands ive spend on tools over the years.

[@BerndFelsche]

Old, soft toothbrush after a soaking with light oil cleans that rack. Make sure that there's no oil residue left on it before assembly as the oil will tack in new grit.

[@Abom79]

I like to use my fast evaporating solvents to clean them out.

[@kennethbell7318]

Thank you! very interesting Adam.

[@44Celt]

got my starrett dial caliper from ebay for £1 [$1.20] a bit tatty but cleaned it up good

[@williamsquires3070]

That, and you can measure the width of your honing stone at the same time as you polish your calipers! Twofer!

[@Ivan_713]

actually......its easier to take off the bezel clamp, take off the bezel with a flathead screwedriver, take off the needle, close the caliper, then just adjust the needle to the 12o'clock position taking off the plate takes a risk of unwinding the spring inside so it might not be accurate afterwards.

[@iancoupe20v43]

get a set of moore and wright so easy to reset them

[@kenbudd3]

Fooling around with those little screws is like treading a needle with boxing gloves on.

[@Christopher.C123]

Ken . It most certainly is when you have hands the size if dinner plates and fingers like a pound of sausages , I know because I have that problem.

[@phongluu5756]

Thanks so much for video.

[@swarfrat311]

Thanks for the info, Adam, That's good to know. Have a good one! Dave

[@mealex303]

I truly love caliper's but wish I could own a set!

[@leebarnes655]

Starter set is available for $20 at Harbor Freight. I'll be a snob when I'm better paid.

[@xenonram]

There are always deals on used Starrett and Mito calipers places like eBay, Craig's list, Amazon (third party sellers). You've just got to look.

[@Abom79]

Yep, lots of calipers in all price ranges out there to be had.

[@udowillkomm1173]

Those Brown & Sharpe dial calipers are made by Tesa/Etalon, afaik

[@tsw199756]

Udo Willkomm I don't think Brown and Sharp make much any more I believe most of their stuff is rebranded.

[@Abom79]

Udo Willkomm Those Brown & Sharpe calipers sure are smooth. 😎

[@udowillkomm1173]

I bet, they are. Tesa / Etalon is absolutely premium. I´ve never seen something bad from them.

[@AlexGarcia-ti7nk]

Me salvaste la vida perrooooo, pensé que me iban a matar el día de mañana