Shop Tricks & Hacks, Fast & Easy Bearing Race Removal

[@ypaulbrown]

great tip on bearing removal.....I remember the first time I did this and was so happy with the results....cheers, Paul

[@adrianholgeth3208]

That is a skill i will never need, but i will probably always remember. Thanks

[@joell439]

Definitely a clever trick that I wouldn’t have thought of myself. Now I know 👍👍😎👍👍

[@garychaplin9861]

I have used this trick many times, the bigger the weld the more it shrinks, a stick weld is more effective because of the higher amperage, weld all the bearings and then let the housing cool down, saves time waiting for cool down between each weld and leaves cleaner bearing housings. A really thick weld with a 10 G GP rod and bearing races really will fall out.

[@AaronEngineering]

G'day Josh. That's a very neat trick mate. As a former mechanic from way back, I still remember the old fella who taught me this hack. Great idea to share and demonstrate here on KZbin. I'm sure many don't know this and it will help them immensely. Cheers, Aaron.

[@Freetheworldnow]

This is a well worth sharing tip! Thank you and God Bless.

[@normesmonde5332]

Oldie but a goodie

[@BrucePierson]

This is one of your older videos that popped up when I was watching your bee video. Neat trick if I ever have a situation like this. With not many of my regular channels posting at the moment, it's interesting to look back over older videos that were here before I was.

[@billsenke327]

One of my great teachers showed me this trick but I have found never Connect the welds it shrinks up more and i have found they come out easier

[@TopperMachineLLC]

I will try that next time. Thanks.

[@krazyrican1v325]

Thank you

[@jpsimon206]

Haven't been here that long, but I'm really liking the channel. It feels like you're finding your rhythm. I really like this format of a video, not as standalone content, but interspersed with job videos, I find these tips and tricks type videos particularly from smaller job shops to be really helpful

[@TopperMachineLLC]

Thanks. I actually considered not releasing this video because I was unhappy with the quality. Guess I shouldn't second guess myself.

[@bendugas8632]

This will also work on bronze stern tube stuck in a boats sternbearing, always good to see different methods of removing stuck bearing races.

[@w6aav]

Great tip and trick. Thanks for sharing!

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

I concur.

[@mikehardin7086]

Great tip. I will definitely use this some day

[@fanatamon]

That weld works great, happy days. Used this again today worked unreal in fact i reckon the heat also helps break any seal down and in any event gives a nice big rim extension to hit also if required.

[@jamesblevins451]

That was a awesome way to remove a race thanks for shearing

[@jonkzak]

Very cool tip. Thank you for sharing. I find your videos motivating and inspiring. I'm headed into retirement and needing to develop a income and have a love of machinery.

[@TopperMachineLLC]

Thank you. I'm trying to keep the videos fun and educational. Enjoy your upcoming retirement

[@mikesfarmmikesfarm3977]

with races that large, you could tack a bolt inside race that you could attach slide hammer if needed ?

[@460faceplant]

I have removed many races by welding, 7018 rod will shrink them more but it's a little messy.

[@mikepayne8756]

Better idea to remove bearings, DO NOT USE WELDER. One missed weld BB can lead to another failure. Use large torch tip, heat race just enough to discolor, not even blue. One pass around bearing. Let cool. I have had large races shrink enough to break as they cool. Just as fast and much cleaner. 60+ years as a heavy equipment mechanic.

[@TheObersalzburg]

Great information. Thank you!

[@johndonlan5956]

Really cool idea!

[@jackdawg4579]

love to see more tips!

[@MikeF1189]

Great tip!

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

Good one . I do a lot of that type of work the same way , just can't film it at my day job ! Cheers .

[@railroad9000]

Physics applied; expansion and contraction!

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Works great...

[@charlettemendoza6150]

Very nice

[@captmarc]

Huh. I do have a welder and some VERY stubborn races... This might be the fix!

[@mikeking7470]

Slick! Not sure why it contracts more than the original diameter but that is a neat trick.

[@jeetenzhurlollz8387]

because when the meltpool freezes back to solid it froze to a dimension of hot metal, then cools down so it contracts. it can also be used to stretch sheet metal to remove bumps.

[@fanatamon]

@@jeetenzhurlollz8387Interesting.

[@xdrfan]

Great trick to share Josh, I’ve used it once before when I had a bearing race in a blind hole to remove. By the way, in your example, do you think running both beads at the same time would have worked? Just thinking of weld spatter getting on the bearing seat and minimizing cleanup before installing the new bearing.

[@TopperMachineLLC]

It would have worked, but I was more concerned with having too much weld on the smaller race and not being able to catch the bigger one to get it out, as that one had to come out first to get the smaller one. A catch 22. There was so much grease on everything yet, that I wasn't worried about spatter. I cleaned it up with brake cleaner afterwards, and blew it out. Not a weld BB in there. Thanks for watching.

[@mikec.9177]

Done the same process to remove cylinder sleeves from dry sleeve diesel blocks

[@TopperMachineLLC]

Yes it does. Put a few beads all the way down. I've done it on motors back in the day with great success.

[@GardenTractorBoy]

Great trick, thanks for sharing. Do you spray the gear with anti-splatter spray to reduce any risk of damanging the gear?

[@TopperMachineLLC]

No. There was so much oil and grease in it that it didn't concern me.

[@pmcpcmike]

Who taught you that trick???? That is very good...

[@TopperMachineLLC]

Honestly I can't remember who it was. I've had some of the best teachers and influences in my life to learn from.

[@OldIronMachineWorks]

I think that’s one of those tricks that guys have been using ever since they started making welding machines. I used to have some gearbox covers with the bearing cups knocked in flush where you could not get to the back of the bearing at all, weld them up and let them fall out. Been enjoying your content topper, keep them coming. Gary

[@jpsimon206]

Gary, have you tried the greasy shop rag trick? I saw it on AVE. Have not tried it myself, but it was damned impressive. He had a spun bearing in a blind hole quite deep. Took shop rag covered in grease and keep jamming it into the center of the bearing with a punch. I never would have believed it could work if I hadn't seen it, the little torn up bits of greasy shop rag basically forced their way under the bearing and lift it right out. Sounds gimmicky as hell, but it took him less than 5 minutes. I'm waiting for an opportunity to try it ever since

[@OldIronMachineWorks]

@@jpsimon206 Over 40 years of wrenching there’s not too many tricks I have not seen or tried. Yes I have removed bearings with that technique. The first time I used it to remove a pilot bearing that was in the end of a crankshaft. I have since got blind hole pullers that work quite well. Another way that works well also is you pack the chamber with grease and machine a slug that barely fits through the bearing ID and smack it with a big hammer. Just have a rag over it because it will spit a little grease out.

[@BrucePierson]

@@OldIronMachineWorks We used to knock out crankshaft bushes just using thick grease and an old spigot shaft. That was well over 40 years ago when we had old Holden cars here in Australia.

[@ypaulbrown]

just curious what model is the Miller in the background.....thanks, Paul

[@TopperMachineLLC]

That is my Miller Dialarc HF TIG welder

[@Ben.last.name.]

If you've got a tig on hand, have you tried doing the same thing with just a torch and no filler? It works a treat on valve seats. Not sure if it translates well to something the size of a large bearing race.

[@ronwilken5219]

With my luck I'd weld the thing in.

[@jeetenzhurlollz8387]

use anti spatter compound

[@godssoldier101]

another quick, maybe faster trick would have been to cut a groove in the outside race with a simple angle grinder... less than 30 seconds.. allowing the small piece of metal left in the cut to allow the pressure to release, then collapse and easily punch out the race.. exposing the inner race to easily have a pipe placed over it and have it pressed out by the press. none of this exposing the casting to high, rapid heat in concentrated areas.