Shoptalk 22 - June 2020

[@adhawk5632]

You and robin has started a solid post/compound delete movement all over the internet. Love it👍👌🇦🇺

[@samcoote9653]

I swear Stefan, you say in every video that you're too lazy to do things, yet you're probably the most thorough machinist that I've seen hahaha. Love the video awesome as always

[@PeregrineBF]

The best engineers and machinists (and other craftspeople) are lazy. If you do it right the first time, there's no need to spend effort doing the same job over. Engineering as a profession is the embodiment of lazy efficiency: make machines & structures to do work instead of having people do it!

[@outputcoupler7819]

@@PeregrineBF In software we say "laziness is a virtue". Some argue that it is the _greatest_ virtue of a software engineer. A lazy software engineer doesn't want to come back and fix things. They want to write code once and never think about it again. They automate repetitive tasks so they never have to do them again. They write good documentation so nobody asks them any questions.

[@sydneyshinshi]

Yeah I wish i was that lazy.

[@FreeOfFantasy]

@@outputcoupler7819 Spending 20h to automate a 5 min task so you don't have to do it ever again. Totally normal software development.

[@trashanken]

Is'nt this just the German protenstantist work ethic culture. You could always worked a little harder... Great work Stefan!

[@MrLukealbanese]

'Outlier' is the word you were looking for rather than offshot. Another great video Stefan.

[@ehamster]

I think the idea with the multifix index pins in the bottom is that you use just one into your fixed post. With the pin in the ‘zero’ position you have 40 positions (9 degrees apart). If you take off the holder and use the second hole in the tool post it is 165 degrees from the other. So you have another 40 positions, 6 or 3 degrees offset from the original 40 positions. I am currently making a fixed post to attach my Multifix E.

[@johannglaser]

I also remember seeing this somewhere. Probably it was a PeWeTools video. It enables to reach angles like 15°, 30°, 60°, 75°.

[@lupuszzz]

It is so good to listen to a person who really understands the basics, works extremely carefully and is a genius!

[@danmenes3143]

Stefan: I bought a Multifix because don't have time to make toolholders anymore. Stefan two minutes later: Wouldn't it be great if I had a rotary broach holder that went in the new Multifix. It's an addiction. We all share it.

[@smitmachinale8281]

It could be his sense of humor, you never know😂

[@chrislee7817]

So impressed with your calm, organised and precise work. It makes me want to clean my workshop.😀

[@jonathannieminen3001]

tip from a toolmaker whos had to grind some fairly long and small diameter core pins with shut offs on the ends on compound angles: choke up on the pin as much as possible. if spinning in a fixture, support under the pin with a spring loaded copper pin in some kind of mild steel holder. a wire spring is almost strong enough to make everything run true again. Also, all my vee block screws have copper tips on them so parts dont get dented.

[@ohhpaul7364]

I don't really have a comment other than thanks for bringing us along with you for a trip through your shop and workings. Hope you are doing well in this day and enjoy your summer. Thank you for the videos.

[@rickpalechuk4411]

We really appreciate you taking the time to create your content for us. You have a wealth of knowledge that would be a shame not to share. Like the great minds in history, their job was to share and enlighten us so we may all go to higher levels. Cheers

[@bobuk5722]

Hi Stefan. You are a treat to watch and listen to. So well organised and so very good at explaining things. Not just a practitioner or expert but a guru of the mechanical arts. And very self-effacing with it. Fascinating and uplifting as always. Thank you. BobUK.

[@stumccabe]

Thanks Stefan. Your telescope gauge experiment was very instructive.

[@mpetersen6]

Working in .001s use a telescoping gage, working in tenths a dail bore gage.

[@TomMakeHere]

Well presented and informative video Stefan (as usual) I like the spreader idea in the v block. It also stops the screw from marking softer materials

[@mbbmidwest3556]

Stefan..I made a live tooling holder that directly mounts to a BXA tool post and doubles as a rotary broach. I just rotate the tool post the 1* and indicate the angle in (would be problematic with your fixed setup). I used tapered roller bearings vs a thrust bearing and balls. This allows me to dial out any spindle end play and set the preload with the bearing nut. I have a slinger built into the spindle shaft to protect the front oil seal and the bearings runs in an oil bath...simple setup and it will take all the thrust you can throw at it. Only thing I would change is to make the spindle compatible with ER collets.

[@TomChame]

Excellent from start to finish, thank you. What I learned...... So basically, EVERYTHING is made of rubber. Snap gauges are like playing with hand grenades. Multi-fix tool posts deserve to be fondled.

[@captcarlos]

These are Telescoping gauges, subtle differences from 'Snap' gauges which are generally an OD, Qa micrometer like gauge.

[@brucewilliams6292]

What a great way to start my day; with a Shop Talk from Stefan Gotteswinter! I learn a lot with every video you make. Having your data for the telescoping gages helps with my own measurements. I was expecting way too much out of them and this was instructive. Thank you so much. Please do a video on the last operation that you were doing! That looked so cool.

[@mikemullenix6956]

Your experiments are the reason I enjoy your videos so much.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Very interesting update Stefan. I liked the V-block deflection measurement - had never considered that a V block could cause round part deflection.. Also the broad angle/form tool at the end was very impressive. That's a lot of engagement!

[@1crazypj]

I used to teach the use of 'T' gauges, your oversize measurements were due to plunger creep (you mentioned it at beginning ) Allowing plungers to 'snap' out without being in a hole to contain them will eventually result in a broken tool ( even happens with Mitutoyo) Far east mports last between 'first time out of the packet' to 10 days in 'trade school classroom' environment) The radiused ends of T plungers should find correct centre but averaging is a good idea for critical sizes One of the 'Final Test' tasks was to measure various motorcycle components to see if they were still within manufacturers spec. Easiest way to take measurement is put working end in hole at angle, pinch up lock, 'swipe' handle across hole and remove gauge (at the opposite angle) If your right handed, only eve have T gauge in left hand and micrometer in right hand, it's far quicker to develop a consistent feel (and obviously, if your left handed do the opposite) You can get a very accurate reading when you develop a feel for 'stick' It feels a bit like a cheap telescopic magnet grabbing something 'too heavy' and letting go again (there isn't an easy way to describe feel)

[@jonsworkshop]

Hi Stefan, really interesting gauge R & R on the telescoping gauge, and an insight into statistical analysis and differentiating common cause variation from special cause variation. For anyone who doesn't deal with this stuff in their day job, you broke it down really well and demonstrated it flawlessly. Up to your usual excellent standard, well done and thanks. Jon

[@ChrisDePrisco]

I always learn so many things from your videos! I don't have any of these things yet (except a set of 5 telescoping gauges), but will try and remember them for later. lol

[@tombellus8986]

Stefan, thank you for the multi project video. You are my favorite u tube video producer You are an amazing machinist and a very talented designer. You always come up with the perfect solution to every part or tool that you need. You also make them to perfection and explain why you chose a certain set of steps to achieve the best end product. Stay safe my friend!!!

[@garyc5483]

Thanks for another good shoptalk Stefan. Stay safe stay well. regards from the UK

[@simonelomax7465]

Thank you, always enjoy your thorough explanation of what ever you are doing; which ensures that even a novice such as myself can follow and understand. I was surprised, but pleased, to see you move to the multi-fix as I bought one last year to use on my little Myford 7 - I now know how to set it up properly. Must add that I very much enjoy listening to you on the Machinists Podcast too. Stay well, blessings from Lancashire, England.

[@reiniertl]

You are right when you said around @23:30 that the mean should be off, the reason is that you have some outliers, like the 26.673mm, but if you use the geometric mean (which reduces the effect of the outliers) you get 26.5300mm. The variance of this set of measurements is around 0.00361mm^2, maybe a good result or maybe not given your obsession with microns. No accuracy test is accurate if you don't report both the central location of the measurements and the variance/standard deviation (0.0601mm in this case). The SD is telling you that, based on this set of measurements, 68.2% of the time you will get a measurement in the interval (26.470, 26.590). More measurements can mitigate the effect of outliers even more, but they are measuring errors you cannot discard. Moreover, much more important is to find the confidence level of your measurements. That is to say what is the probability that your measurements do not fall within the tolerance. It is not hard these days to make such analysis, a spreadsheet software is capable of setting a hypothesis testing setup. I decided to add this part: A nice trick to get better results is to take an odd set of measurements, order them, and consider the central one as the best measurement (you use the median instead of the mean). You can also discard those that are outliers, but in that case you must discard the same number of samples from both ends. You can also do this for even sample size, but then the median would be the center point between the to central measurements. In this case the bore should be 26.501mm, much more closer to the mean you computed after dropping the outliers.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Very cool analysis. I definitely need to learn more about stats. Taking the median came to mind for me too. One plus point of that, is it's so easy to do on paper, just sort and take the middle entry. (Or if there's an even number of measurements, take the middle two and find the midpoint)

[@2lefThumbs]

Yeah I'd go for the median too and use the robust version of SD to go with it (Median Absolute Deviation) . I'm always wary of using geometric mean to make a smaller value than arithmetic mean, unless there's reason to suspect a log-normal distribution.

[@reiniertl]

@@2lefThumbsThese measurements will probably follow a log normal distribution. I was thinking of it having a long right tail, which makes sense if we think that the measuring arms can slip out once the gauge is removed from the bore. Measuring with these gauges requires training and adjusting to the set one uses because. There has to be a delicate balance between the amount of drag to prevent slip during gauge removal. However slip can occur because those springs seem to be quite strong. Then looking into the log-normal distribution I noticed a mention of its use in engineering and metrology, so it seems that many instruments will produce readings that follow this distributions. Although in practice I would prefer to take five measurements, order and keep the central value as the best. If all measurements are close to each other it means little probability of error. I wouldn't trust a single measurement unless for roughing (like when we use a caliper to check where we are and take the final measurements with micrometers).

[@rlsimpso]

I just made up a 5C stop with an interchangeable end. Good tip on facing in place. It never occurred to me how annoying the fine thread in the rod is until now.

[@billgilbride7972]

Even though I don't have a multifix, the info your videos hash out is always something important to getting things right, and getting it right enough for you. THAT pushes everyone to ask themselves the same question before taking the cut... What would Stefan do in this situation? The answer is always, Don't settle on microns of error. If you can measure them, you can cut them proper!!

[@mosfet500]

Let's not be ridiculous, Robin is a nice guy but no one works in sub tenths, not even Robin. Do you know what it takes to work in sub tenths? AA Jansson metrology lab works in sub tenths. Their sub tenths lab is in a small temperature humidity controlled room, they never shut off the light because it affects tolerances. The guy's making flux capacitors, they're imaginary!

[@ianbertenshaw4350]

Hi Stefan , Firstly thank you for a very interesting and stimulating video ! I was taught to use a telescoping or snap gauge and an inside mic in the vertical position so gravity doesn't pull the gauge down as you wobble it - never really tested whether it makes a difference but if some one could it would be you ! With telescoping or snap gauges i feel getting the torque on the locking screw as consistent as possible can be difficult especially for the newcomer - too little and it can move - too much and you risk twisting the gauge as you tighten it . The next problem is transferring that measurement to a micrometer and the "bump "in the bore has to be the same "bump"when you measure it with a micrometer . One tip is if you haven't used a snap gauge , micrometer ( inside or outside ) is to get your hands on a decent quality roller bearing and use this to practice your measuring skills as a good quality bearing will be very close to the stated specifications and fairly cheap to purchase compared to something like a setting ring or standard . I wonder if some one one day will come up with a ratchet system for telescoping or snap gauges ? I have a set of Moore and Wright small bore gauges that use a taper pin to drive out two hardened balls. You use it a bit like an inside mic. It doesn't tell you any direct reading as you need to measure it with a micrometer and you can sort of gauge if the bore is parallel or out of round with them .

[@baltasarpuig8754]

The first time I saw your Trippan QCT I was so impressed that I made myself one. It was then I realized you can have only the ID kind of tool holders if you slot the short face as well as the long one. You have to orient the body of the QCT perpendicular to the lathe's axis and the tool holder goes upside down for one position and right side up the other. The slots are 90 deg to each others.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

I have seen those tool holders... now they have the Stefan stamp of approval I will add one to my shopping list.

[@srp01983]

It’s worth looking for Create Tools - a Chinese company that makes a very high quality version. I bought an E set from them and they are super quality, not to be confused with cheap Chinese toolholders. I am pretty sure they supply PeWe. After buying a set I went back and bought more toolholders - pretty quick delivery, good prices and they do their best to minimise import duty.

[@dibblethwaite]

Thanks for the bore measuring stuff. I try to measure woodwind instruments and often get frustrated about my lack of repeatability. Now I have some pointers to how I can improve.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Thanks for making a video just for us, it has very useful and interesting. The work i do is under a tightly controlled contract also. Thanks for sharing.

[@ROBRENZ]

Good stuff Stefan, enjoyed! ATB, Robin

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thanks Robin!

[@Rob_65]

Stefan, thanks for a great shoptalk again. These may seem like being an number of unrelated random subjects but I love them. Just finished watching and realized I am still holding my cup of coffee, now cold, at the end 😁 Love the information about the Multifix holder. We have a A size Chinese one which I do not like at all It is very hard to adjust and seems to be not as accurate as I wanted. On my smaller lathe I just bought a DIxon style holder (made in China) - cheaper than the Multifix and it seems to be as good as the Multifix on the larger lathe ... Since I will be spending this years holiday in a cheap place (Hintergarten am Rhein) I am now almost tempted to spend my holiday allowance on an Axa Multifix

[@robertklein9190]

In lockdown, time flies when Stefan post a long video. I'm waiting for him to give up the day job so he spend more time in the bunker creating more exotic tooling.

[@djizomdjinn]

Another shoptalk! These are always a pleasure to watch!

[@barrystevens2780]

I'm happy to watch your videos. I suggest you evaluate lamping collars. I propose ot splitting them as they are off the shelf but with a slit tangent to the bore. Them when tightening the clampingscrew tends to grip by wrapping not just squeezing. I've been designing parts this way with more reliability

[@mpetersen6]

Clever idea on the depth stop. Given the 20° included angle of the 5C every .001"/.025 mm difference in diameter gives you .003"/.075 difference in length. A far better solution is of course dead length collets. Expensive (it must be the H, Hardinge expensive, Harley Davidson, expensive). An easier solution folks is a stop length collar. The Hardinge catalogue on workholding shows these but they are very easy to make. The collar slips over the work and bears against the shoulder (the draw back is you need a shoulder on the part) on the work as the collet draws in it pulls the workpiece against the collar it places the part in tension. Rigidity is markedly increased. The 5C Collet is not ideal due to a number of factors. But when one takes in the entire 5C Collet System one realizes just how useful the are. An ER collet might have more range but just where does one find an ER internal collet. Or Step Collet. Or Face Plate Collet. I'd post a link to pictures but my Photobucket account is being nasty of late. Need to find a new image service.

[@incubatork]

I could listen all day, so calm and collected in your explanations even if you do have a problem pronouncing words with V in them like wise 😆😉

[@iiredeye]

In the German language V is pronounced as a W ...It's not a problem...just a different language, and for sure, his English is better than our German.

[@robertoswalt319]

You always post such interesting content. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us.

[@1AB09CC3]

For the first part with parting off the aluminium bar I can also recommend an end stop in the tail stock. used this myriad times. Clamp e. g. 10mm bar stock (faced) in your drill chuck. Place a 5mm thick piece of rectangular stock between the part and the end stop. Wiggle it out so your bar stock can rotate and won't jam, pick up your zero point and start parting away. But I have to admit your / Robins method is beautiful and I just thought "why haven't I had that idea" 🤦‍♂️

[@Engineerd3d]

Love those multifix holders. Had the pleasure of modeling an organizer for the larger B size. The finish and fit was superb.

[@woodscreekworkshop9939]

I am in shock with the fact that you actually own an eraser AND you needed it. 😳😁

[@ChristophPech]

In fact he never made a mistake like this and just uses the eraser to appeal to regular people like us.

[@artmckay6704]

Great tips, especially since they're coming from the cloak and dagger side of machining. Stefan could, much more clearly, reveal many more secrets but then, sadly, he'd have to kill us :) Spies, intrigue, and machining. Who knew you could mix those things together? Gun? What gun? I have calipers and gauge blocks. I don't need guns! Torture? I don't believe in torture but I do have an overhead grinder that can persuade answers to within a half a micron or better. Generally when the grinder gets switched on, they start talking right away...... So, anyway, some machinists do live a dangerous and exciting life. Remember Clint Eastwood in the Eiger Sanction? Mild mannered college professor by day and deadly spy by night....

[@jonathannumer5415]

He faked it so that we don't feel so bad about ourselves

[@greglaroche1753]

Another great video. Thanks!

[@brandontscheschlog]

Love the idea of the Hemingway upgrade!

[@Sketch1994]

Obviously too late to say that but my lathe had a 4 tool toolpost with a 8 position ratcheting mechanism that consisted of a toothed plunger on the compound slide and 8 serrations on the bottom of the toolpost. I made an adapter plate with 60 serrations on the bottom (for 6 degree indexing). The newer Tripan toolposts have a locating pin to lock them in position so after locking it at a full index position (as all positions in between are possible with the one way ratchet, and a circlip lifts it off the ratchet when the bolt is further unscrewed so you don't have to do a 360 in case you accidentally go to the next tooth) you can just indicated the toolpost directly and drill the hole but since mine had a parallel key going through the center of the locating bore I put a boring tool on the lathe chuck to mill a reference flat vertical to the lathe axis. I then set that parallel to mills Y, found the center of the bore and mill the key slots across it without touching the round boss of the adapter. In literally 30 minutes I have an appointment to have some someone blast through a few adapters...I'm actually really proud of that design because it can combine the speed and versatility of the multifix with the easier to clean, easier to make adapters and higher tailstock clearance and visibility of the Tripan.

[@royfcjr]

I so enjoy your thorough explanations as you fixture-cut and certify dimensions. Size is not of concern, but quality always tells. The only question I have is to wonder what other languages you machine in? Oh yes, I really like the shop and how you use your space.

[@alasdairhamilton1574]

A pleasure to watch as always 👍👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@cschwad559]

That solid base on the tool holder makes tremendous difference in overall ridgidity. What I like about it is parting becomes easier and safer.

[@vpcnc]

schön, dass du einen neuen Shoptalk gemacht hast. Den Anfang muss ich mir wohl noch in 360p ansehen

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Gerne! Sollte eigentlich 1080p HD sein - Kann manchmal etwas dauern bis jeder Nutzer volle Auflösung bekommt :\

[@eXactModellbau]

Stefan, ich bin etwas entsetzt, dass du die Anwendung der Teleskoplehren falsch zeigst. Das Teleskop muss beim Messvorgang vertikal stehen, sonst rutscht es durch sein Eigengewicht unter die Mittellinie.

[@Rayzor714]

Wow excellent work

[@hereticswissery9010]

Nice to see how you fix your multi fix thanks for the video

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Stefan, thank you the tips on telescoping gauges, I always enjoy you videos, I’m always learning, I think it was on Instagram you mentioned about the ikea lamps you use, mine arrived in the post today, I’m looking forward to seeing a bout better on the lathe in the future, thank you, take care, Matty

[@googleuser859]

Excellent, detailed content as always. Thank yiu sir.

[@sickboymech92]

That was absolutely beautiful, Stefan.

[@angelramos-2005]

Most certainly I appreciate your videos.Thank you

[@mpetersen6]

Really nice form tool cut at the end. That much length of cut it is really easy to get a lot of chatter

[@chrisbartrum3201]

Always a pleasure.

[@RookieLock]

I was looking forward to this! Multifix seems like a great system!

[@jtkilroy]

Great video! Really enjoyed the variation of topics. Stay safe my friend.

[@matthewwest8689]

In statistical studies, particularly for QC and 6 Sigma type studies, we consider quartiles and median figures, rather than mean, to help account for outliers.

[@joeldriver381]

Excellent content and I always learn something!

[@kglesq1]

Always interesting stuff Stefan. Thanks.

[@stefanhertweck]

As always, interesting and usefuls tips. Thanks. Stefan.

[@MegaCountach]

Another nice video Stephan, thanks!

[@pauldavidson6321]

I use a small Ifanger upr boring bar clamp for vee block clamping ,works well with no marking on the workpiece.

[@JoggingWithForks]

Thank you so much for these videos! I've learned so much watching you.

[@FinnoUgricMachining]

Case hardened shafts are nice for that kind of applications. One source for those are old printers. Especially old IBM line printers

[@fredgenius]

Thanks Stefan, you've given me some ideas! I wanted one of those Multifix toolposts for my lathe but in the end they were just too expensive for me. Maybe when I get a larger lathe...

[@kmpnelson]

Always looking forward to your videos!

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

very good video..thanks for your time

[@soundlimit300]

Interesting content as usual Stefan.Thanks.

[@Metaldetectiontubeworldwide]

I guess that the telescopic gauges , where off at the end , creeping under 25.500 mm . Due to the heating up of the telescopic gauge .. Indeed the mitutoyo micrometer is well insulated , but the telescopic gauge wasn't at all. reason its getting smaller (counter intuitif) , was because you measured a ID so when tips get hotter they touch earlier . Is my throw at trhe repebilaty numbers . I like such testing alot , weel done Stefan grtzz from the Netherlands Johny Geerts

[@mole2410]

Your videos are so interesting.

[@gestaltlabart]

25:00 have a look at the median function ... that's what pros in statistic use (instead of average) ... quite simple: sort all measurements by value and take the one in the middle (if itˋs an even number, the average between the two in the middle)

[@outsidescrewball]

enjoyed....great info

[@robertcorrie6737]

Thanks for sharing with us.

[@paulbuckberry7683]

Thank you Stefan, very interesting.

[@thisnicklldo]

I have always thought that the nut that holds the toolpost is behind the camera - you live and learn.

[@rayeaglenz]

Always interesting, thank you Stefan :)

[@FinnoUgricMachining]

Most older german lathes come equipped with the Multifix holder. My Weiler, for exampåle, had the Hahn&Kolb version of the post. Now, some far east toll holders are NOT compatible with the "original" Multifix tool post. So, do not assume that the tool holder is compatible if the size designation (A, Aa, B, ...) is the same. The two brands Stefan mentioned are OK. The AXA is made in Germany, The PwTools is made in far east under very rigid german control. There is a german phrase; "Trust is good, control is better". I bought my holders from PwTools as I was actually able to call the owner and ask whether the holders are compatible.

[@mpetersen6]

My last job we had one lathe set-up with a Multi-Flex. The only thing I did not like about them was the screws in the holders are very hard to find in the US. Not because they are Metric (or ISO if one prefers) but because they were 7mm or 9mm screws. I know they weren't 8mm. Of course the company was expanding their machining department and the new boss decided to restrict access to people he hired. I guess 45 years wasn't enough experience 🙄. But then the company started doing inhouse production work and the machining I did there was related to repair work

[@OstapHelDesigns]

Thx Stefan! Great content!

[@romo4301]

Tolles Video 😀 wieder viel Neues gelernt 👍Gruß Robin

[@melgross]

These are nice. I like my Dorian though. Very solid. Very accurate. Far easier to mount. Lots of block styles. Easier to keep dirt out of the tool and blocks.

[@burntorangeak]

Thank you.

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

Interesting . I am not sure if you have tried the Moore & Wright style fixed end telescopic gauges , i find they are a step above the style that both plungers move when feeling for the size . Cheers .

[@lrakschmidt2880]

I had some brand-X gauges - didn't like them, bought some Mitutoyo - not better! I could see lots of burrs under the microscope - no better than the Chinese. I think the problem is some of the players are just putting their names on things. I used some old ones once - nice an smooth - worked fine - but he wouldn't sell them. I took the Mitutoyos apart - smoothed things with some pencil stones - still not right. Not sure you can fix the cheap ones - and the expensive ones may be cheaply made today. I think the tolerance of the pistons vs tube is sloppy - not something fixable. TOT didn't seem to fix his either.. In production shops they just don't use these anymore, so it could be no one cares.

[@bid6413]

Great. Please show more how you use the Multifix tool post. Particularly interested in threading when limited to 9 degree increments. Cheers

[@captcarlos]

With 9deg incremental rotation, assuming you set it up like Stephan did adjusting the boring bar to be aligned with the ways as a test, then you Always have 90 and 0/180 deg options for whatever op including external and internal threading. What Stephan has done in line with his rigid, no compound slide technique is to carefully set that 0/90 orientation and dowel pin the 40 pos core block. Even going as far as showing his first failed attempt.. I have worked 40 pos equiped lathes, with compounds, none of which have been dowel fixed, and you do find yourself having to adjust the position of the core block tooo often.

[@rickhaass1133]

that last cut was pretty interesting sir.

[@captcarlos]

I was expecting a whole lot of chatter, note the ultra slow speed though, I'm guessing not slow mo.

[@maikeydii]

If my memory serves me correct, he did something similar to demonstrate the rigidity of the setup when he converted this to solid tool post.

[@larryblount3358]

I found the last video segment interesting. A tapered cut, looked like low speed and a wide chip. Could you provide details on the type of material being machined, doc, and more on the tool doing the cutting?

[@eXactModellbau]

Hallo Stefan Zwei Ergänzungen könnte man noch machen: Es gibt noch einen kleineren Multifix als den Aa, nämlich den Aaa. Und man hätte das mit den zwei Stiften vielleicht noch erklären sollen. Dass der 2. Stift um 4,5 Grad versetzt ist, was einem zu den 40 möglichen Positionen des Multifix noch weitere 40 bringt.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Ja, bei den regulären Mfix gibts die nicht, deswegen hab ich die ausgelassen . Gibts nicht sogar mitlerweile einen noch kleineren als AAA? Das mit dem zweiten Stift war mir nicht klar, man lernt nicht aus :)

[@ColinMcCormack]

Thank you. I enjoyed your video.

[@SamEEE12]

I am a simple man, I see a Stefan Gotteswinter video; I smash the like button.

[@slots1407]

Same. Watched it over my dinner. Being single has advantages.

[@pedromanuelsancalixtoquint3682]

Señor Stefan. Soy un seguidor de sus videos,los encuentro muy interesantes,de sus comentarios no los entiendo porque no hablo su idioma. Le pediría si es posible,la traducción a través de éste sistema. Yo y muchos seguidores quedaríamos agradecidos. Saludos desde Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

[@michaelrosenlof1084]

Excellent-Thank You ✅

[@radriand]

super supprised that the mutifix does not have the pin holes clocked to the spline. if you ever need a new one, you will have swiss cheese solid tool post.. I would think that the orginal factory would hold it in some way that indexed it. Like a tool holder mounted to the bed of the drilling machine. By the way, I often use two screw hold downs on a V block. Spread them out to the Bellel points....It seems to help.

[@7duser10]

Long time watcher, just a shout out I would love to see such a rotary broach build..... I have a 20mm boring bar holder and it is VERY useful! I even made an indexing jig that works with it.

[@Gottenhimfella]

I made a spindle such as Stefan described, with needle radial and thrust bearings, using an ER32 collet chuck with a 20mm straight (hardened and ground) shank - the drawn cup needle bearings run direct on the shank. Because the drawn cup derives its final size and roundness from the housing bore, it is straightforward to finesse the bore size to get the desired radial preload. One thing I recommend: I machined the tail end of the rear bearing cap at the 1 degree angle which the spindle is slewed to: this face is intended to be pushed by the tailstock barrel because on a small lathe (in my case, a Myford 7) the carriage handwheel will only cope with relatively light thrust loads. This feature also assists with setting at the required angle for rotary broaching: the bare tailstock barrel end, as well as being used for pushing the spindle housing directly which takes the carriage along for the ride, can be used to quickly align the housing before clamping the toolpost nut. My housing is from alu plate, thick enough to accept the needle bearings, and a big enough footprint that it replaces the quick-change toolpost altogether. I made a bunch of broaches myself, but I do a lot of stainless work, so I ended up buying one of each size of "proper" origin, from high grade tool steel (M4 or M42) rather than O1, via eBay. This combination of swaging and cutting is very tough on tool steel when the workpiece is stainless or other high-nickel, strain-hardening alloys.

[@smitmachinale8281]

Just my experience with multifix A holders. I have an original Multifix A tool post with a number of original Multifix A tool posts. When I needed more tool posts, I purchased them from other suppliers, the AXA ones will fit with no problem at all. The ones from Paulimot do not fit at all, and I purchased an other one which was advertised as Multifix brand, when I got it there was no brandname on it and it did not fit also. So be ware what you buy!

[@mattmanyam]

If anyone is curious, Robin talks about V block deflection (briefly, as Stefan mentioned), in his recent video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZu0ZqOFoKiYjZI about 11m in... (I had to go look, because I rewatched it recently). "Making Grooving Boring Bars"

[@Cerebatonify]

We need a video for the future build of the rotary broach you're talking about.

[@bcbloc02]

Can't believe you didn't machine the top of your retention post to be the same as the clamp that way you always have the tool at hand.