Probably the most well informed channel in line with current science on strength training for climbers I’ve seen so far! 👏 I’m just not a fan of how the preparation periods are broken up into such blocks; current S&C literature tells us that microdosing high velocity/ ballistic outputs is as effective - if not more - than an entire block - also has the benefit of an athlete not detraining the other more robust qualities induced by high force bilateral training, and the athlete is accumulating coordinative properties. Also “sport specific” strength training for me is always a problematic concept - because it promotes the idea that if it “looks” like the sport it’s “good” strength training. When the reality is that it could fall into training purgatory - neither heavy enough to induce true strength adaptation, nor enough like the sport to have any benefit either from a coordinative capacity or power production. Based on how literature available, and results from other well researched sports, I think it’s more relevant to speak about developing general force/velocity production properties per demand of the sport, and getting them to do the sport as much as possible in tandem with that. Which is to say a standard strength session could be bilateral force production + stability + velocity, twice a week in tandem with usual climbing load. Then in preparation for peak season, you can monitor force production times and increase/decrease load depending on the athlete and the timing they need to get them peaking correctly - just like any other sport.
@tallndorky4 ай бұрын
I just looked up the weight and height of top Natural bodybuilders, many of them are 5'11" and 190 lbs. . . I know a lot of climbers who are scared of lifting because of gaining extra weight. . . I was one of those climbers for 20 plus years. . . now that I'm lifting weight I'm now seeing how hard it is to gain muscle.
@ClimbStrongTV4 ай бұрын
Absolutely, many climbers are worried that they are going to "get huge" and this is just not the case for most folks. However, many climbers could actually see benefits from putting on some muscle - be more resilient, powerful, etc. In addition many climbers likely undereat (not necessarily intentionally) especially with regards to protein intake, and could benefit from some attention to their diet along with the strength training.
@tallndorky4 ай бұрын
@@ClimbStrongTV I have a hard time getting as much protein as I’d like…and I actually eat meat!
@martinw3804 ай бұрын
thanks, subscribed - putting this to the test!
@ClimbStrongTV4 ай бұрын
Cheers Martin, good luck on your projects!
@martinw3804 ай бұрын
@@ClimbStrongTV 1. which of your training plans implements this combination of stability-load training? 2. Are all your plans climbing specific? 3. and which plan who you recommend for a 6b climber? 4. adding a struggle with dynamic moves?
@RFrecka4 ай бұрын
There's no high-quality research to indicate overall core involvement or recruitment is higher in unilateral movement when compared to bilateral variations of the same movements. Why are you suggesting this is the case?
@ClimbStrongTV4 ай бұрын
Hey Ryan, what part of Steve's discussion are you referring to here?
@W1LDtracer3 ай бұрын
no leg training for climbers please
@JamesBenedictFitzGerald4 ай бұрын
The climbing IS the resistance - weight lifters don’t lift weights in the off season; climbers “off season” is indoor climbs or another activity. Climbers should allow proper dietary habits and long hikes to keep weight appropriate for the task, lifting is not worth the possible extra weight gained, “possible”, for what it does NOT payoff for climbing. This is incorrect that lifting prevents injuries, what is true is that lifting plus climbing creates more injuries from CNS fatigue, mechanical fatigue in areas requiring hours of fatigue in climbs etc.. Allow the activity of climbing itself to be the resistance - this balanced with walking and hiking is all one needs in life for pure movement freedom, it’s unsexy but true.
@ClimbStrongTV4 ай бұрын
Something tells me that we won't have a productive discussion moving forward from this comment. Don't you find it a bit strange though that virtually all elite athletes in other sports that also require high strength to weight ratios spend significant amounts of time in the weight room? 🧐🤔
@markdonohue7554 ай бұрын
People who say weight lifting adds a lot of muscle weight don’t understand the science of hypertrophy (and have likely never actually tried to build muscle mass to see how frustratingly difficult it can be); they also have a lack of understanding of how diet plays into the equation (hint: you can’t build extra tissue mass if you’re not consuming excess calories) People who argue weight lifting creates excess risk of injury are ignoring that all sports where injury risk is the highest (due to the excessive forces involved - sprinters, gymnasts, football players, wrestlers, etc.) must incorporate it into their training plans if they want to be elite. Also, the argument that lifting increases injury risks would suggest body builders and power lifters experience abnormal injury rates and I don’t think any evidence suggests this. In the end, a genetically advantaged person can climb strong without a formal weight training routine. But I think the point here is anybody who wants to maximize their climbing potential should consider weight training as a compliment to their other training activities. Learning good technique and appropriate diet and recovery principles for weight training (likely a bit different than when one is focused on pure functional training) is part of the process too.