Should We Give Up On Painting Rust?

[@EonsOfBattle]

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[@theycallmepiccolo9985]

When using dirty down make sure the bottle is warm to the touch, the surface is also warm to the touch and lastly DO NOT use a wet pallet with this paint use it from the bottle or the lid you can use water when applying the paint just dont use a wet pallet

[@cloraformsgood5340]

Dirty down are game changers for me. The quality rust affects are the best in the game .

[@WilhelmScreamer]

Why no wet pallet?

[@Krasher247]

The reason being that dirty down rust activates with water… paint it on, let it dry, and then using a clean wet brush ‘remove’ the extra, then let dry for those awesome effects u see… takes a bit of trial and error but once u nail it it’s the b3st :)

[@theycallmepiccolo9985]

@@WilhelmScreamer the rust effect isnt as good its much better from the bottle

[@theycallmepiccolo9985]

@@Krasher247 thats exactly how its meant to be used reactivated with water and pushed around however using a wet pellet adds to much water right way making the effect overly random in colour and such. The starting steps of warming the bottle and the surface you wanna paint are just as important as the reactivation steps

[@williamings773]

Having a lack of control over dirty down rust just makes it more realistic. Vince has a good video on the stuff, he uses it more as a basecote for his rust, then highlights the areas he wants more atention drawn too in a tradition way.

[@belverkungol]

Even knowing it is meant to read as rust I really struggle to see the acrylic as rust. It looks more like a glow effect, like lava or plasma. The Dirty Down rust definitely helps sell the effect, but the acrylic on its own is much too bright to read as intended imo

[@israeldelarosa5461]

It looks more like very fresh rust which is a lot brighter than aged rust.

[@hughwoodford]

should have some more reddish-brown rust as the first layers, he just went straight into the bright stuff

[@chrisperry8220]

The best rust tool I ever used was gifted to me by a modeler friend who lived in Long Beach CA. It has been long used up. It was a dry water soluble powdered orange carpet dye. You thinned it with water and applied it with a brush and depending on how thickly you applied it, you also got the texture of rust. I miss it so.

[@jakkaljakobie8774]

My go-to for rust is folk art burnt sienna. I know, i know, but even when i bought the stuff 15 years ago it was already gritty and nasty, and here that helps. The color brightens and dries unevenly, it doesn't need watering down on panels and edges, and the resulting matte looks great when dry-brushed. Its also a great base point if you want bright orange crunchy corrosion, since that neon orange comes about usually as water damage, and most weathering starts dark and turns bright. Plus its like 1$ so if you hate it, you dont feel bad about chucking it.

[@timreeves]

I've had a play with painting rust and dirty down rust, but my current secret formula is mixing pigment powders with thinners/white spirit, you can either make it super thin so it seeps into cracks, or make a sludgier mix for more precise and built up rusty areas, it dries super matte and gives a great crusty texture on thicker applications. it's super quick and the huge variety of pigment powders or crushed up coloured chalk means you can get all sorts of lovely hues. love your videso where you deep dive into specific techniques like this, and when you flex your painting skills, with how varied and approachable your videos are i always forget and am pleasantly surprised at how great some of your models come out!

[@ger5956]

When using Dirty Down Rust I find it best to warm the bottle in my pocket for 30mins or so then shaking it for a loooong time and use a big brush to apply a thick layer on a warm model, you can then use a damp brush to feather the DD rust and adding more water creates a more orange to yellow effect. Hope this helps.

[@HofstaA51]

As others in the comments section have noted, when working with Dirty Down products its important for them to be warm and well mixed, and you can manipulate them in a lot of ways with water (either watering down the stuff before application or to reactivate and push it around after). In my personal experience I've also found that the strength and color of the effect can be influenced by how fast it dries on the model (partly why warmer helps) I use a hair dryer or heat gun to hit the model with hot air right after I apply it and I've had good success doing that then following up pushing it around with a wet clean brush to get the look I want. Just be careful to to melt your minis!

[@Zable24]

This looks so good! Ive really been wanting to try this effect for some custom death guard. It almost seems like you need to do the dirty down before the acrylics, to layer the effects more. Also should totally have tried some dry pigments as well!

[@drowninggames]

I find Typhus Corrosion and a bright orange paint used mixed into random parts makes a really nice rust for smaller areas like on weapons.

[@scotthuizinga]

I feel like everyone has their own secret with Dirty Down, but mine is that it came with a small bag that looked like bits of sawdust. If you apply that to the bottle or drop some in when you put it on your palette then where ever it falls those bits make it look extremly rusted. Like the metal is starting to swell it's awesome.

[@faynelor]

I'm sick so I get to stay home and paint and watch your vids.

[@flipvdfluitketel867]

Get well, but not too soon

[@faynelor]

@@flipvdfluitketel867 Thanks man I did get well, just a little too soon

[@turmsalps4472]

For nice and controlled rust effects my go to tool is AK Weathering pencils. Pencils can be applied dry brushing style or mixed with water for even more precise application.

[@gregsmw]

something iv done for rust, literally just diluted orange contrast paint over metalics it genuinly does come out looking like scale rust, its not as good as if you put more effort into it, but its LITERALLY 2 coats of pain and your done, and it looks good

[@SnyperMac1]

I try to do my layers of rust as the different stages of rust. So I start with black then i build up some bright silver with some drybrushing in the areas i want to stay shiny, then move into brown then orange as a dry layer then some yellow and orange streaks where i want the freshest drippiest rust to be. Also some glazing in yellow that i let dry a little on the edges then dab dry to leave rings

[@antongunther3977]

AP has a rust paint (part of the effect paints). Its pretty good for dry brushing and for watering down to make a rust wash. It has more pigment than their normal orange paints. Best rust though is dirty down, just make sure to shake it in a vortex mixer for a full 2 mins or stir it.

[@Amber13525]

Talking about the citadel dry paints i got a part time Christmas job at my local friendly game shop cleaning the shelf and stands and all there was only about 2 to 4 dry paints that was brought well on the other hand the citadel layer was missing more then 2 layer colours

[@marcolai9735]

Hi there, do you know that Dirty Down now has also got a yellow rust bottle? It's epic when combined with the standard product

[@nopeacejustwar1664]

Jay. If you want to make it yellow where you want it, put some dirty down on a dry pallet and then squirt some water in it to mix it up. The water is what helps to make it turn yellow.

[@jackhandsome9839]

As someone who lives in the rust belt of America,you did nightmareishly good

[@alejandroballesteroshernan1678]

i like to flood the subject in water then apply thic blops of DDRust and it will automatically feather itself out and make nice effects instead of hardlines

[@FoxSpeedshop]

The only problem with adding yellow is it looks like new flash rust. Old rust goes very dark almost black brown, which is what that dirty down seems to do pretty well to my eye, youd expect most 'old rusty stuff' to be very dark not new yellow orange

[@ori-yorudan]

Aye that might look more realistic, but often very dull, and not very interesting. Models with effects that catch the eye and stand out while still maintaining a good read of what it's supposed to be trumps realism in almost all cases in my opinion. I think the yellow and brighter oranges achieve that.

[@FoxSpeedshop]

@@ori-yorudan thats fair, fine line between realism and what your eye sees as realistic and 'right'

[@cyberpunkdreams]

I love GW's dry paints. There's just about the only ones I buy a lot of different shares of and don't just mix my own.

[@aigaro9736]

When I'm painting rust, I'm using more oftenly a brown colours to make the rust looks older

[@nikolaosalexandroskaloumen1693]

I think the new Fanatic Warpaints from TAP will have an amazing rust effect paint which will have some particles in it as well 🤔

[@Mad4saxBrewery]

I use Masters Metal Effects. Mix up a salt and vinegar mix to activate it.

[@StealthVenturi]

Can you do an Invader ATV and Outriders with some green stuff work?

[@Trizface]

Are you not heating it up first? Like can primer you want it to be nice and warm. Heat the object your painting too if possible.

[@krzlwzl]

Typhus corrosion AND ryza rust dry looks pretty good, thats what i use

[@durkee8823]

Ryza Rust with some Mortarian Grime on top makes the perfect rust effect. At least for what I was trying to do.

[@garymchughofhighlands4066]

Fellas and Jay should I buy I knight or get something else

[@Telzrob]

This is very cool, but I have to ask. Why not simple Iron Oxide powder?

[@thekrautist]

Before I clicked on this video, I guessed to myself... "a paint containing iron that literally rusts as it dries". Pleased with how close I was.

[@FreshCoatKustoms]

Shake DDR until you can hear the ball rattle for at least 15 more seconds. Best is upside down. Immediately use, because the rust particles are very heavy and sink to the bottom very fast. It is by far the best rust around. They also have a new yellow rust version, which might help you. It might seem expensive, but a bottle will last forever. I have done 2000 points of death guard with less than 20% of a filling.

[@Furtuim]

What kind of wood glue do you recommend for basing?

[@don_bernacz]

GSW do a nice range of liquid pigments (pigment powders suspended in a fairly thin medium) they dry with a really matte finish and have some cool rust colours - from dark purple to bright orange - I prefer them to the DD as you get a bit more control on where the colours end up

[@FreshCoatKustoms]

Please don't buy GSW products. They are the Nestlé of the hobby world when it comes to shady business tactics.

[@Jeffs40K]

Water down the Dirty Down a lot and use multiple coats where needed.

[@mjhsinclair]

Poor Konstantin walking over all this rusting metal. He’ll get an infection.

[@MrBurningrubber]

They make a dirty down yellow rust as well

[@crowythebutcher6127]

I got 1 use out of the necron compound before it dried out but ryza rust is still alive for me

[@JorElDG1989]

The most important thing about dirty down rust is to shake it. And I mean in. To get perfect effect you need to shake for like 15 minutes. I honetly think this one thing is reason to buy vortex to shake paints. This is ridicilous how much time you need to shake it to make it work as advertised

[@malcire]

What do you use for the tiny rebar?

[@benweinberg3819]

I've used guitar wire in the past, even has the little spiral grooves

[@popburnsy3207]

It's funny that a lot of people don't darken the recesses for rust and verdigris. Why is that?

[@dr.sommercamp3435]

Typhus Corrosion + Ryza Rust works😉

[@SuperSeel]

🤩 That yellow is super bright! What paint is it?

[@babalusch]

I´d like to love dirty down - but the biggest downside for me that you can´t varnish over it. And as Jay always says: "We´re playing with cheeto fingers and can´t have stuff rubbing off when playing"

[@Daedric1260]

Every hoby store I go to still gets necron compound stocked

[@babblingbeastofnurgle]

I just leave my miniatures in saltwater for a couple days, especially my Collonel Straken, that usually works...

[@215Xavier]

Please do your desolation conversion

[@TheHairyBeastie]

sprinkle cinnamon powder on superglue for deep pitted rust.

[@gaomon2887]

MW2 For the win baby!! I've spent countless hours with that Beauty and on rust alone at least 150 Hours, BUT i was more of a Favela fan my self.

[@teamkeogh]

Rust Cole is the only rust I’m interested in.

[@andybandyb]

It’s funny: citadel sells dry paint for dry brushing, while dry brushers are learning to wet their brush and thin their dry brush paint 🤣

[@yendub]

I'll be honest. While weathering/rust/grime can make a model or vehicle pop, I don't do it. The closest I get to doing that is with vehicle tracks and wheels. I hate the detail of them and just cheat by slathering the entire track area with mud/snow/sand.

[@AJankeD]

I would love to see a Salamander

[@Metamoq]

so battletech?

[@omoroburns2172]

You should try Ammo u-rust😊

[@ThePlacemat]

spunging DD rust makes an amazing effect as it varies the layer thickness

[@SEstee_Mustang]

Still use Ryza Rust!

[@captainweekend5276]

Terminal was better imo, also nuketown is the superior 1v1 map. Also GW still sell dry paints, at least in the UK.

[@FlippyDipDipper]

You are the coolest

[@exoticxlj8815]

mega early for a mega vid

[@colouredIncognito]

Not sure how this base is supposed to be more 'realistic' as opposed to the base with texture overlapping it...😅

[@Bloodworia]

Just use dirty down rust, easy as breakfast

[@TraneGraffMaster]

back to not cutting the nails i see

[@dakotaward3596]

8th comment love your videos brother

[@mehdibennaamane783]

oh boy, you missed many things on this one. First your acrylic job - good job BTW as always- looks clearly like a magmatic base and not rust. It will trick no one. Second, you can play with dirty down with acrylic and by adding layers not necessarly by removing it. And finally, no, dirty down isn't expensive. Not in EU, where we can have it for semoething like 8 euros/bottle.

[@mort8949]

Totally agree with you, except for the price of dirty down. Apparently it’s cheap in the EU. Here in the US that shit is $25 USD a bottle unless you find a deal.

[@swinginjoe8477]

Nah son, COD High-rise was best map

[@MrSteelface96]

wasd

[@fabianmeyer8156]

Really like your videos but pls cut your nails xD

[@ManMeatMoose]

Typhus Corrosion + Ryza Rust, my favorite combo. The TC adds grit for the drybrushing to catch on and I think it looks great