Should You Modify Your DSLR For Astrophotography?

[@stevenrun34]

Funny, I was just researching this today. I keep reading about astro mods for DSLRs and then seeing that you still needed to use an IR Cut filter... so I was like ? Huh ? Then I realized that the transmission curve of the Canon IR Cut filter is murdering Ha and SII wavelengths and astro IR Cut filters just cut off sharply at 700nm, allowing all that glorious H II region light in. Still-- I have actually gotten some decent results with my stock DSLR. I thought about modding my camera-- but that didn't seem like a great option since I like to do normal photography as well. Then I thought about getting another DLSR so I could dedicate one of them to astro. Then I just figured "why not just use the correct tool for the job?" So I just pulled the trigger on getting a dedicated cooled CMOS camera for astro. The DSLR will definitely be with me for star-gazing-- but it will run a wide-angle lens and ride on my small tracking mount or on my telescope's back while the real astro camera is doing the heavy lifting on those faint nebulae. Totally agree with you though-- unless you're dedicating that DSLR to deep-sky astro-- don't bother with the mod, especially if you're on an APS-C Canon since you're going to lose access to all of the EF-S Lenses.

[@orionm4254]

I like photography in general. I like astrophotography because it really helps show how light(photons) are captured

[@barryn56]

If you modify your camera, you can just get an IR cut filter that fits your normal lens, for daytime use.

[@scienceoutthere]

Woah this channel has grown like crazy since I found it! Well done! I watched this last year but noticed today my camera mod video was getting a lot of suggestions off this one. So Thanks! :P

[@dedskin1]

Ive did Astromodification on Canon 600D , Removed both Filters , LPF1 and LPF2 . I didnt have Dedicated Sensor Filters like Astronomik CLS and others that cost a lot for a piece of glass. So ive used what i had , and i had 1,25inch Light Pollution filter , and i just put that in front of the Sensor , and it works . But i also can use the Camera for Day Time Photos , it still works like the unmodified . Focus Works , White Balance is off course off , but easy to correct in Photoshop or in Camera with Custom WB. So basically its not True that you cant use the Camera for day time after modification for Canon 600D , i have that model and it work fine . Because those filters LPF1 and LPF2 have nothing to do with Focus , LPF1 is not a Filter at all its a Cleaning Unit , and LPF2 is a Filter but it doesnt do Autofocusing , so it only changes White Balance and lets in Infra Red if removed . Lots of disinformation about this online , even on dedicated forums . Ive been told that Focus wont work , it works , and ive been told that LPF1 is UV/infra red filter , UV it is not , Infra Red it is partially . LPF2 does not do focusing . In fact Focusing in DSLR has nothing to do with Sensor , you can remove it and it will still Focus , it has dedicated focusing mechanism that lives above the Sensor and uses the mirror to get the light for focusing , so whatever you do with your camera sensor it wont change focusing . So all you that have a Camera and need for Modification but you still want to use it for Day time ,you can do it , it will change nothing other then White Balance . And if you dont want to pay 200$ or around for some Clip In Filter or similar ,you can use filters that you have and put them in front of the sensor .It will work i Guarantee it .

[@denispol79]

Nicely done! I have modded 3 different cameras so far and collected some info on the process. If someone plans to do it himself - it's really easy, if your hands grow from the right place ) When you astro-mod a DSLR, and plan to continue using it for terrestrial purposes, the main issue is focus calibration after the mod. Since focus sensor is in separate location from the main sensor in DSLRs, the main sensor must be brought to exactly same position and orientation as before the mod. It can be done by 3 spring-supported positioning screws that hold the main sensor. But reaching a needed 10-microns accuracy is not an easy task. I ended up collimating the sensor position only in x-y plains, ditching the depth. This way the focus in uniform thru-out the frame, but regular camera autofocus won't work. If the error is insignificant and DSLR supports micro-adjustments, you can train it to reach focus with different lenses. If the camera doesn't support micro-adjustments, don't despair ), you can still use liveview focus, that utilizes main sensor directly. The bottom line is, you can still use your camera for regular shots, especially if you add IR-cut filter on the lens, or these clip-on ones, directly on the chip.

[@AstroAddict]

Very thorough!

[@kowalskik.1333]

I mean the really interesting question would be. Can I compensate the downside of a not-astromodified camera by shooting e.g. 10 times more frames and stack them? Would the result be the same or even better? Mostly only one e.g. 120s frame provides a nice milkyway picture. So why not to should 10x120s with a not-astromodified camera, when result are the same. Of course an astromnod. camera will always winn when comparing same total exposure times, but in case someone has no money for a 2nd astromod. camera, this could be a good compromise. What do you think?

[@4sapphireb]

I was interested also in the increase in stops of light with the cut filter removed. I bought a Zwo astro camera for “deep sky” but I still love my wide field landscape astro.

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

Or you could get lucky, like me, and stumble upon a super-cheap astromodded camera body on eBay. Picked up an EOS-M body, full-spectrum modded, for €75, including shipping. Reason it went so cheap was that some of the buttons no longer worked, although the camera could be controlled entirely through the touchscreen + the remaining buttons that did work. Well, the replacement was less than €5, and I believe the whole replacement process took me about an hour, maybe two. Best astro deal I've ever made! 😁

[@ironjavs1182]

Yeah that would give you the best results... But sunlight goes good for many situations. And when using astromod dslr you should set the whitebalance to sunlight (with this method). This gives you colours as "you can see the objects from the Earth"--> "correct white balance" (this is matter of opinion).

[@johngiromini5745]

Enjoyed the video. Good thought process presented on why/why not to modify. Question on your Canon: it appears you have a battery pack mounted on the bottom. Could you share what brand/make you are using and what the expected "live time" the battery pack provides? Thanks, John

[@AstroAddict]

The brand is called “Meke“, but i doubt that you will find it online, since i live over here in Germany. (I assume that you are not, because 90% auf my audience is American😃) With the two original Canon packs, 5-6 hours of non stop imaging is possible. My camera usually dies when taking the dark frames, the last frames i shoot. But i don't recommend to buy a cheap grip, the one i got before just broke on day two. But this one does what it's supposed to do.

[@deepspaceexplorer4265]

You only need the mod for emission nebulae. That's it. And even then you can still capture them even if not as "spectacular" as with the mod. As for GALAXY... NO REFLECTION NEBULA... NO DARK NEBULA... NO STAR CLUSTERS... NO Hydrogen Alpha filters can help, especially for galaxies like M33 where red emission nebulae are scattered through out its spiral arm structure. Don't ruin your camera. Just buy a dedicated astro camera if you are that obsessed or neurologically disturbed to obtain marginally "better" results by removing the IR cut filter and RUINING IT FOR REGULAR PHOTOGRAPHY...

[@ironjavs1182]

Personally I prefer still... after this to use G2V star in photometrical white balance calibration in Pixinsight, but it will be very close to this when you set the WB manually using the Sunlight (because Sun is G2V type star).

[@fuckednegativemind]

Great video. But actually, if you're not doing a full spectrum mod, it's not the IR filter that you remove. On Canon dslr, you need to remove the lpf-2 (the second filter in the light path), this the "white balance" filter that cut most of the red (and the IR, but that's not its point). This why you need to add a white balance filter if you want to re-do daylight photography. With full spectrum mod, you need to add a UV IR cut filter because you removed the two original filters, the UV IR cut and the white balance filters.

[@foc2241]

Would you recommend doing astrophotography with a 5d Mark II or with a EOS 250D? Because I have both of them with the same objective.

[@mattparkin7224]

You just need to use a hot mirror filter on your lens to be able to use your camera normally which is just the same as the filter that is removed from infront of your sensor

[@AstroAddict]

You learn something new every day!🤔

[@mattparkin7224]

@@AstroAddict No worries man, I've bought a full spectrum camera over the last couple of weeks with the aim of shooting IR photography so have been doing a lot of reading up, glad it's helping others too!

[@kidpog3d101]

AstroAddict pin this please

[@AstroAddict]

Wait, pin? How do you pin, what does that to?😂

[@waynehitchings9923]

Hi AstroAddict. I recently discovered your page and really enjoy your videos. I'm just getting into deep sky. I have a question about DSLR mod. I've seen a lot of info (confusing to me) regarding this modification with some saying take this filter out but leave the other one in or replace it with some glass etc. If i have no intention of using the camera in the daytime and I never use auto-focus, can I not just remove everything in front of the sensor? Thanks

[@AstroAddict]

You the last piece of glass is there to protect the sensor from dust. Removing everything is an option, but if a dust mote get's on there when you attach the camera, you can't just blow that away. It's just a clear glass, it does not block anything

[@waynehitchings9923]

@@AstroAddict ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the advice.

[@Mainuh]

Nice video, thanks. I was able to find a few Nikon FS mod videos out there. I have a Nikon D5300 and was able to pick up a full spectrum modified D5300 and keep my non-modified one. Now just need some time to shoot with it.

[@PewSesh]

Great explanation! Question... is there any benefit to having a full spectrum dslr conversion over H alpha mod? The camera would be for dedicated astro and some solar photography.

[@AstroAddict]

Full spectrum is a rather advanced and hard to handle modification. Used to collect more wavelengths than just Ha. But you'll need special filters to block halo's etc. Ha will be enough for you, don't worry!

[@PewSesh]

@@AstroAddict Thanks. Camera is en route to Life Pixel as we speak 💪

[@michaelklemm-abraham7298]

I used Canon SLRs for a long time since I was working as a part-time press photographer I used full frame cameras. I never was able to modify it since I needed the camera for a lot of daytime photography. Today I use Fuji mirrorless cameras. Those have better transmission for H alpha, so I don't need the modification right now. Buying a dedicated cooled astronomy camera in the future makes more sense to me.

[@AstroAddict]

It does, but when you are starting out, and only have a, lets say, low-level dslr, the price tag and the needed knowledge of a CCD is way too high in my opinion. Even having multiple DSLR's is way beyond my wallet. You can start intro Astrophotography from any price tag, but starting with a dslr is the best way, i think. Starting with a highly dedicated setup is way too much for a beginner. That's why i recommended the modification only for people who really want to get started, and learn the basics of deep sky. After that, a cooled CCD is the way to go, you are right.

[@Wheeljack678]

This video is still informative and helpful. I've been on the fence about modding or getting an astromodded camera for almost a year now. I think I will go the route of getting a second camera as I use my current a lot during the day (especially during summer when it's too bright and I can't do AP).

[@AstroAddict]

Good plan!

[@cosmoscarl4332]

You don't need to mod for widefield but it looks amazing if you do. After color corrections in post processing, using a modified DSLR for wide field brings out all the Ha in the milky way.

[@AstroAddict]

True

[@sleeplessgiant7407]

The more expensive APSC cameras are only more expensive because they offer more focus points, more customizations, maybe a better screen, etc, which is all useless for astrophotography. They all have the same sensor in the back of the camera. I think the best is to use the most basic entry level 24MP APSC camera. You can find Nikon D3200s on ebay for 150 for instance. For that price, the risk of modifying it yourself makes more sense

[@AstroAddict]

That's a good point!

[@dorostheodorou4047]

Congrats for your great work overall. I am a photographer and by chance i have decided to give it a try with astro photogrphy too. Is becoming a kind of adiction i am afraid. I have heq5, SW120 ED with reducer, guiding, L-pro and CLS filters and i use my sony a7iii for photography, but unfortunately Sony is not supported by APT and as you said if you want to go serious you need astro modified camera. I may need ASP-C sensor at 750mm f5.6 since any smaller sensor will end up in some targets to become too big. Canon M50 astro modified (supported by APT) or dedicated astro cam? My budget is around 750euros. What do you suggest? Thank you

[@AstroAddict]

Wait one more salary, and get a dedicated one. The equip if worthy to be used with a ZWO

[@dorostheodorou4047]

@@AstroAddict i am close to ASI183mc pro, but sensor is small and orion and andromeda won't fit in frame. However seems to be a good choice. ASP-C cmos sensors are way expensive and i have an issue and i need 20mp and more :-) Will it be a good choice with my gear? BTW i love the simplicity you have in your videos and the sense of humor. You are getting better and more comfortable in every new video.

[@AstroAddict]

@@dorostheodorou4047 Lots of MP are way too overrated. The camera will definitely not disappoint you, but not fitting Orion and M31 would be such a shame. A slightly smaller scope would also do the trick, and an awesome fit for the cam.

[@wylam]

There's no need use any filter for daylight photo. Just use custom white balance for your modified dslr.

[@AstroAddict]

One patch of clouds and you need to perform a new balance. I don't know how many custom white balance settings can be saved in a dslr, but definetly not enough for all needs.

[@Cessna172SNavIII]

Funny thing is, I just finished modding mine an hour ago

[@MMphotography1996]

By yourself ??

[@AstroAddict]

It's not a rare thing

[@elise3455]

I use a full frame D610 for my regular day-to-day photography and have a spare crop frame D3100 just collecting dust. Would the D3100 be a good candidate for IR-conversion? I'm thinking the poor high-ISO performance might be a problem for astro. But then again, I guess I could just remove ISO noise with dark frames... 🤔 Anyway, thanks for the suggestions!

[@Boreganic]

At worst you’d have a prototype camera to see if you’d ever want to move invest in a better camera to do it

[@AstroAddict]

You don't need that high of an ISO for astro. If you have a tracker, you can keep the ISO at around 800-1600. If you have a camera left over, the modification is a very good idea!

[@RemusLt]

Do you think that Canon has more clip-in filters compared to Nikon or Sony for astro. BTW, I have a few astro modded 1100D T3. If interested check bio. We also modify Canon EF-S lenses to use with those clip-in filters.

[@AstroAddict]

'Back in my day' (like 4 years ago then i started) most filters were Canon only. I do not check regularly, but there are definitely more filters for other cameras these days

[@robertdepaulis5188]

By the time you buy and modify your camera . Wouldn’t it be cheaper to buy a second hand Astro camera ?

[@ronaldg7522]

There are companies who can modifie your dslr. In Germany you can find on the Internet 3 or 4 in seconds. Modification Costs around 250 €.

[@kalef1234]

I actually disagree about wide field milky way shots. Well....yes you don't NEED the mod but I am getting my 6D H-Alpha modded for shooting Astro with 14.. to 135mm lenses on a star tracker. Will make my photos and timelapses SO much more interesting. Plus, the 6D is like 400 bucks on eBay these days. Crazy

[@montxsuz]

I agree. I had an older Olympus modified when it became time to replace it with a new model. I haven't got the post-processing perfect yet, but I do get more light. Also, I use external cut filters for day time - when I need to.

[@rkatamari667]

Thanks for this informative video! Keep up the great work!!

[@gelisob]

Just got a used 650d yesterday for astromodding it, for 100€ :) Tho not in a hurry to do that.. because living in 59 degree latitude doesnt give much shooting opportunity in summer :( Still struggling to find out what exacly does the lowpass filter cut out (google images for "canon sensor filters"), if anything.. people kind of say to remove the ir-cut filter and leave lowpass in for full spectrum and thats it, I do not want to put any extra money into this since for a 100€, i think getting filter glass pieces kinda make little sense.. Also have not found information on does "full spectrum" have downsides for astro imaging.. like, will i get too much signal that gives no detail or what..

[@aaronhutt274]

So the OWB will allow you to use the camera in day time like it was before the IR filter removal?

[@bipulgohain2637]

Hi, you made things pretty clear regarding AP. Very nice video.Thank you

[@kushanvyas7728]

Can canon rebel t7 use for astro purpose with modification? Is there any reflector or budget telescope required to attach t ring with this in order to capture better quality picture ,suggest telescope?

[@AstroAddict]

The t7 is an entry level DSLR. With modification, it can definitely take some great initial images. I would suggest a small doublet refractor, like 70/350. Those can come at about 500$. And yes, you need to check which adapters you need for that. The Canon will need a T2/Bajonet adapter

[@lesliefranklin1870]

Great video. Thanks. It seems like some filter manufacturers could make a normal filter to install like most other filters at the end of the lens so you could use the EF-S lenses as well. Something to look for/request.

[@AstroAddict]

The fact that we modify the cameras is reason enough for them not to support us. E.g. Canon wants to sell the 80Da, and not filters for others.

[@lesliefranklin1870]

@@AstroAddict If I am in the market for a filter, Canon is the last place I would look. If enough photographers express a need, other companies (like B+W, Hoya, Tiffen, etc.) will want to profit.

[@Feinstaubkoenig]

Very good video, thanks! You know anything about Sony Cameras (A7) to remove the IR filter?

[@AstroAddict]

Sorry, don't know anything about the Sony cam's, but i am sure that some forums (cloudynights or astrobin) have some people who have the answers you are looking for

[@Feinstaubkoenig]

JTW from Holland will make a good job at astro modifications. Since i was at La Palma some weeks ago, i have a new hobby :-) Thank you!

[@AstroAddict]

Just guess where i took my first picture😀

[@Feinstaubkoenig]

Really funny, lots of people got addicted there :-) I think i will go back to La Palma next year and make pics with my new gear (better tripod for the wind and astro mod Camera)

[@IanHaylett]

A great topic which I am just researching. If I modify my camera for astro, how will that affect moon, planet, star photography? Would it be possible? Thanks

[@AstroAddict]

Everything is affected the same way, you can shoot everything you like. The images will look a little more red, that's all

[@silentypeguy]

Very helpful thank you. If you're open to constructive criticism, you might try lowering (removing?) the background music. The subject is interesting enough without the distraction.

[@AstroAddict]

Yeah, the video is very old, I am working much more on the audio recently

[@klausschmieman4503]

Hi i just watched your video as i bought an old Canon 450d for small Money. I Shot flat Frames today and they are quite reddish, the histogram for red was about twice as high as for green and blue. Will i loose my gain in red when i use these flats when i Stack?

[@AstroAddict]

The color does not matter. My flats are bright green when i use the NB1 filter for example. Just make sure that the red spike is not too bright, not over 80% of the range

[@vladimirmachek2524]

Hello Tim, First, thank you very much for sharing your skills and knowledges... I would like ask you for advise. I am hobby astrophotographer from CZ and now I would like convert my Nikon camera. Do you know some German company which can do it ? We have no one in CZ. My thanks in advance.

[@AstroAddict]

Sadly, no, i don't know. I have no experience with Nikon. You can look through Instagram for Astrophotographers with a Nikon, most will be modified. You can ask them :)

[@skibiker42]

www.jtwastronomy.com/products/cameras Does the mod out of Netherlands.

[@BritishBeachcomber]

Very useful video. OWB stands for "Original White Balance".

[@Robert08010]

Gonna give this a 6.5 on the Richter scale.

[@yuvnishbhardwaj]

Just a question can I use APC canon ef s lens without image stabilization or autofocus on mod canon T3I? I have 250 mm lens ef s lens which I want to use for AP without image stablization or auto focus.

[@AstroAddict]

Autofocus and stabilization will not work anyways. Every lens can work, just go ahead and try!

[@schmogmog7731]

Sounds like it's better to get a dedicated astro cam instead. Regarding that that's what you are turning your DSLR into by removing the filter anyway.

[@AstroAddict]

The big selling point with a dedicated camera is the cooling. Of course, the no IR filter is important too, but you won't get the same performance out of a modified DSLR

[@schmogmog7731]

@@AstroAddict True. The option is there in case you have a DSLR already and want to shoot astrophotography only. I don't think I will ever do so, but I shouldn't judge others for following the gole of better deep sky pictures.

[@AstroAddict]

Well said!

[@astronomyintelescope]

Thanks for the video!

[@ati3x]

About the camera. If you buy one on ebay for example canon 550D (it is a same sensor untill 700d) price is starting around 150 euro for only for the body, so that is quite cheap alternative. And the modification is not a magic, so i think the difficulties quite moderat. I did the mod on my 500d, at it takes around 5-6 hour for the first time. here is the great guide for it: dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d7.html But dont forget risk is yours! :D

[@laurentiudinca9606]

How about getting a cheap, used camera and modifying it? Saw a guy take decent shots of the Orion nebulae with the crappiest, sold for parts DSLR and a cheap second hand telescope with an AZ mount, all just 150 GBP.

[@AstroAddict]

That's also an option. Getting second hand stuff can be a good way to get into this hobby

[@laurentiudinca9606]

@@AstroAddict want to ask you. I am saving to get a star tracker, and use my regular DSLR to try and take my first deep sky shots. Are zoom lenses worth it? Or should I go prime?

[@AstroAddict]

Prime is the way to go. Zoom's have uneven vignetting, you'll need flats in that case, almost impossible with a lens. A manual prime, maybe 300mm or even less is a great choice

[@laurentiudinca9606]

@@AstroAddict That's what I thought, too. The only problem is that a good Prime lens is way more expensive than I expected. But that'll be my problem to deal with. Thank you for your time.

[@vszett]

Im new to this hobby and get my first AR 102/1000 refractor to check if I enjoy this stuff. but the biggest question I have is...how the hell do you all afford that stuff...if I buy a total setup with an Autoguide, astrocamera, goto mount i have to spend thousands of dollars...

[@smilerjon3670]

If you do the MOd, can you take pictures of the moon and planets or do I have to buy the additional filter?

[@AstroAddict]

The only thing bumped is the white balance, you can still photograph everything, just edit it afterwards

[@smilerjon3670]

AstroAddict thank you for your reply it’s much appreciated.

[@hornet224]

To me I don't care for the IR cloud on M42 because it is not calibrated for visual observation through my refractor. It is what it is. That means I can't see the horse head nebula. No matter, I can look at it on NASA images.

[@RaysAstrophotography]

Great justification and when to modify. Good work! I lost your channel some where :-(

[@AstroAddict]

Thanks! Well, that's what the bell is for, right?😃

[@RaysAstrophotography]

@@AstroAddict I use two cell phones with the same Google account. I turned on the bell on this phone. Maybe I will see it this time around. Good work on that video BTW

[@AstroAddict]

Thanks :)

[@rXHrzn]

Ich habe eine canon eos 400d für 40€ die würde ich aufjeden fall modifizieren. Was meinst du ?

[@AstroAddict]

Ja, leg los! :D

[@zyclonic5287]

How is it working with daylight? I have 1 camera (d5600) and im 14 so no much money and i wanna still photograph normal thinks is it posible just to photoshop the "red" out and how is it with AF Thanks!

[@AstroAddict]

The Autofocus is not hurt, and you can edit everything photoshop, no problem.

[@zyclonic5287]

@@AstroAddict thnx mate!

[@sureshlingabathina]

Handsome, nice voice straight forward info in 10 mins good.

[@sureshlingabathina]

I am going to modify my Canon 1500D can this Astronomik L-1 UV-IR Block Clip-Filter EOS APS-C bring back my DSLR to normal photography when need. Thanks in Advance. I am subscribed to your channel.

[@estebanod]

@@sureshlingabathina I'm late to asnwer, but using a hot mirror filter will allow you to shoot as if you hadn't modified it

[@jackchow4316]

Thanks a lot for your explanation! Great video!

[@TheUrbanAstronomer]

Nice video, I need to get to this, second hand dslr waiting for more than a year now 😀

[@proximacentauri1513]

Hello AstroAddict, am I right that you are a German? I thought it because of your equipment and your language.... I'm German (too?)

[@AstroAddict]

Was an meinem Equipment sagt das denn aus?😃 Und ich versuche den Akzent so gut es geht zu vermeiden

[@proximacentauri1513]

(; Du hast alles von Omegon, übrigens auch mein Lieblingschinaimporteur, die neue mini Track und als Deutscher erkennt man das halt ;D Noch eine persönliche Frage, wie alt bist du eigentlich? Ich bin 14 (;

[@proximacentauri1513]

@@AstroAddict Übrigens Respekt, mit dem Englisch kann ich nicht mithalten!

[@AstroAddict]

Spreche halt auch täglich Englisch. Soweit ich weiß baut Omegon die Sachen in Taiwan, aber entworfen sind sie in Deutschland, find ich super! Bin 21

[@micharu570]

Im thinking about setup -sky watcher 150/750 eq3-2 for astrophotography+Canon 450d, is IT good setup for begginer?

[@AstroAddict]

A reflector? I started out with a Refractor, medium size. You can get great pictures with a Newtonian telescope, but it is much more work in my opinion. More work, but way less money i suppose. I chose the easier way.

[@micharu570]

@@AstroAddict IT is much more work in editing image etc?

[@AstroAddict]

No, not in editing. A Newtonian must be collimated frequently (very annoying in the winter), and cleaning it is not a nice task. A Refractor comes ready to go, and cleaning is much simpler. But a Refractor needs a Field-Flattener for sharp edges, a Newtonian doesn't have spherical abberation... i think...

[@AstroAddict]

Every telescope has it's pro's and con's

[@micharu570]

@@AstroAddict thanks for advices,i think i'll go with newtonian because i dont have a lot of money, great video by the way :)

[@mwales2112]

I purchased a astro modified, full spectrum Canon T3i and when I image with it everything is red and I can't figure out how to remove it in post. Do I need to add a filter to help with this? Thank you

[@AstroAddict]

It's just a matter of white balance. There is a filter for daytime, called Over White Balance. Im astro, you don't need anything else

[@mwales2112]

@@AstroAddict This camera is only for Astro night imaging. I asked in a forum what filter I would need to to use with my modded camera and was told a UV/IR Cut filter so I purchased a clip-in. Should I keep this filter and add a Over White Balance to the mix or replace it with the OWB filter? Thank you

[@AstroAddict]

You bought a modified camera, to put a IR cut filter back into it? The whole point of the modification IS to get RID of it. It's supposed to look more red when imaging nebulae. The only filter you might need is a lightpollution filter

[@mwales2112]

@@AstroAddict I was wondering that also, but more than one person said to add it... Can you recommend a Lightpollution filter? I have Bortle 4 sky's in my backyard when there's no moon. Thank you

[@mwales2112]

Someone also suggested using a custom white balance using a grey card..

[@gunnarjensen5910]

Full spectrum or IR-cut Ha modified ?

[@AstroAddict]

An Ha sensitive IR cut avoids some halo formation around bright starts, which is definitely helpful

[@TC-bq5ri]

Very well done sir! subbed and thanks!👍

[@TC-bq5ri]

how are you liking you omegon tracking mount?

[@AstroAddict]

It does what it's supposed to do!

[@TC-bq5ri]

@@AstroAddict Thanks for the reply! I purchased one a couple of weeks ago and it works surprisingly well and easy to use...a lot easier than my old vixen mount for light duty work...awesome channel man!

[@camrun2011]

Is Nikon d750 good for astrophotography as a beginner?

[@AstroAddict]

Will do!

[@CineDecodificado]

Ill like to see how day photos look with the filter removed.

[@AstroAddict]

What Filter?

[@CineDecodificado]

@@AstroAddict IR

[@CineDecodificado]

@@AstroAddict BTW, i have a Blackmagic Pocket 4k which is supposed to have "issues" filtering infrared light (too much passing thought the filter) so maybe i dont have to mod it. Do you think i can capture a video with a 200mm canon lens (280mm equivalent after using the converter), then stack all the frames to get a sharp image of a nebula? Sorry for my ignorant questions. I have no experience shooting stars. Thanks.

[@AstroAddict]

Shooting a Video and stacking those frames.. that doesn't make sense. You need single images of multiple minutes, and not shutter-speeds of 30fps. Regarding the infrared filter: Infrared is what we DON'T want in our images, it creates halo's and blurry bright stars. It's the H-alpha that we want, which is cut by the filter. The most common thing that comes with a modification, is a custom infrared filter, which cuts steeply into the infrared, without blocking the H-a. And day photos have a annoying red hue. It can be corrected in post-processing, but i have no experience if it works on video

[@davidrylatt4749]

Very Well explained and ver helpful

[@TheWonkyAstronomer]

I wouldn't try doing the mod myself. Way too scary.

[@sha3755]

Where can I modify my camera?

[@AstroAddict]

Google can help

[@red6625]

Show us a sample mate! I should stay tuned just for your uploading money? 10 min not enough?

[@AstroAddict]

How do the 10 min affect the uploading money?

[@goatsuukerhill]

Thank you.

[@gunnarjensen5910]

Galaxies ?

[@micharu570]

Is Canon 450d good for start?

[@AstroAddict]

Yes, no doubt! Modified would be even better, but it really is a great start

[@micharu570]

@@AstroAddict thanks for answer :)

[@bear5016]

Should you modify your dslr for astrophotography? No. If youre going to spend $1000 on a dslr and then pay someone around another $350 to modify it (while voiding your warranty) and then another $200 for a filter, you might as well buy a dedicated astro camera like ZWO. You really should explain that there are other options besides modifying your current dslr. Im sorry I disagree, but I find Clakvisions explanation of why you shouldnt do this more relevant. explanation from clarkvision: www.clarkvision.com/articles/do_you_need_a_modified_camera_for_astrophotography/

[@AstroAddict]

I got a modifed for 750€. No 1350€. And if you already have one lying around, it's a good option. And i still have my warranty. And a good ZWO like the 1600 is at 1600$. You don't need to be sorry for disagreeing, But a good modified dslr is much cheaper than a good CCD. And for starting out, i don't recommend a CCD

[@SmilingJ]

I am or bette was also thinking about modifying a Nikon D5300 but as of today I think it would be more beneficial to leave it unmodified and buy a low end dedicated astro camera which can double as a guiding camera if I ever update and utilize autoguiding. I found that entry level astro cams are similar in price or even cheaper than normal DSLRs and they don't have a mirror that will eventually break... But all together I liked your video and the explanations.

[@bobbeanbags]

Excellent!

[@levyathan8108]

Can modified cameras be turned back to normal?

[@AstroAddict]

Nope. You can use a clip filter, but that's not really normal

[@BigScope]

im f.iing afraid to do it because i only have 1 camera that i don't want to tear apart

[@AstroAddict]

You could also send it to a professional to do it

[@BigScope]

yeah but it seems so simple

[@AstroAddict]

I'm sure that if you take your time, prepare every step, and memorize the procedure for your exact camera model, you can do it!

[@erbalumkan369]

what about planets?

[@AstroAddict]

If you have the focal length to image planets, money for a decent planetary camera is not an issue

[@thepedalsadvocate7389]

Great vid.

[@jonaeusmaximus8359]

Darf ich fragen wie alt Du bist?

[@AstroAddict]

21

[@ironjavs1182]

Yes... You can still use it to a normal daytime photography after the modification! You just have to set the white balance manually. And here is the best site for modding your canons: dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html

[@AstroAddict]

For every single picture?

[@ironjavs1182]

@@AstroAddict no just once. It depends where you are taking photographs (how warm the light is where you are shooting).

[@ironjavs1182]

But normally sunny daylight white is the best option to take the calibration pic.

[@ironjavs1182]

Check it: press Menu and try to find "set whitebalance" from your dslr. Before doing this, you have to take a picture of the white paper in that light where you are photographing

[@AstroAddict]

You would have to change it even when clouds roll in, and the direct sun is gone. Or when you turn on the lights in your room. Every time the light changes. Would be way too annoying for me

[@michal_king478]

just a year and you already got all that tech? damn

[@AstroAddict]

Indeed

[@scienceisawesome_]

Just get a cooled cmos Astrophotography camera

[@AstroAddict]

And pay way more money for a camera that you really cant use anywhere else? I know that a dedicated cmos or ccd is better, but that's not the topic of the video

[@scienceisawesome_]

AstroAddict but if you modify your dslr it’s the same, you can only use it on Astrophotography. But for a dedicated astro camera you also get cooling and other stuff. As for the price, ZWO cmos cameras are getting cheaper and some are even less expensive than dslr

[@AstroAddict]

Cooling and other stuff? What's that other stuff? The entry ZWO's don't have cooling, a small sensor, large pixels. A DSLR is much more versatile, still usable for normal photography with a bit more effort, and if you already own one, the only thing you need is the mod

[@hewie2000]

Sure you can use the camera for daytime just by buying a ir filter

[@AstroAddict]

I think i mentioned that, didn't i?

[@danielshade710]

No No No NO! Mods cost about the same as cheap color Astro cams. Quantum efficiency for Nikon and Canon chips with their daylight electronics pale in comparison to CCD's and cooled CMOS chips. Monochrome is the only way. There is no cutting corners and modern software makes filters a piece of cake. Don'r ruin your daylight cam. You'll need it for owl pics waiting for dark.

[@AstroAddict]

Name one color astro cam with standard canon senor dimensions'(6000x4000), that costs 350€

[@a.markmento5220]

Also, don't the dedicated astro cams require a computer? Not always that practical if you shoot in the field. Even in the backyard I'm not thrilled about leaving my laptop out all night.

[@AstroAddict]

That's true

[@Cessna172SNavIII]

Subbed👍

[@AstroAddict]

Ty :)

[@Cessna172SNavIII]

AstroAddict looking forwards to what you will be shooting. Your channel is going to shoot skyward, no pun intended:) Also, check out Astrobackyard if you haven’t already. Trevor is awesome and we can all learn some tips from him

[@AstroAddict]

If you think that i don't know Mr. Jones, you are wrong😀 I am with him since the beginning of his channel, and started this because of him😉

[@Cessna172SNavIII]

AstroAddict haha awesome! Glad to hear someone else knows Trevor. Astrophotography is a steep learning curve, but such an amazing journey. I just started out on astro with my 60D and 8” reflector. Can’t wait to see your images. Clear skies!

[@AstroAddict]

“Someone else“? 😀 He has almost 50k subs😛

[@danny4541]

Phuu, wieviel hast du schon für dein Hobby ausgegeben? Da stehen ja wahrscheinlich ein paar 1000€ rum 😅

[@AstroAddict]

Ein bissl mehr...😁

[@kalti1244]

Tolles Video! Ich hab nun mehrere Videos zu diesem Thema angesehen und viele erwähnen 2 Arten von Modifikationen. Beispiele hab ich auf folgender Seite nachgelesen. Sprich: 1 Modifikation: www.astro-shop.com/Instrumente_eigene-DSLR-umbauen-lassen_Canon-EOS-Infrarotumbau.html 2 Modifikation: www.astro-shop.com/Instrumente_eigene-DSLR-umbauen-lassen_Canon-EOS-Astro-Umbau.html Ist es nun "wichtig" das man sich eine Full-Spectrum-Kamera zulegt oder doch die andere Modifikation? Ich hätte dabei folgende Kamera in Aussicht: www.ebay.at/itm/Canon-700D-Full-Spectrum-Kamera-fur-Infrarot-UV-Astrofotografie/123654710229?hash=item1cca6523d5:g:shgAAOSwxbFcbGYW Wäre echt toll wenn du mir einen Ratschlag geben könntest!

[@AstroAddict]

Habe auf der gleichen Seite nachgesehen, bevor ich mir meine gekauft hab. Da ich vorher keine DSLR besaß, kaufte ich direkt eine modifizierte. Infrarotumbau ist für die Astrofotografie nicht nötig, sogar hinderlich. Die meisten Teleskope sind für das sichtbare Licht ausgelegt, und weisen im Infrarot-bereich Fehler auf. Desweiteren wird beim Infrarotumbau auch "Objektivfilter oder Astronomik Clip Filter benötigt", so wie es auf der Website steht. Wenn du nur Astrofotografie machen willst, reicht der Astroumbau. Meine Meinung zum Gebraucht-Kauf (wenn dich das interessiert): Wenn ein Besitzer seine Kamera modifiziert, ist diese wahrscheinlich oft und ausgiebig genutzt worden (so wie es sich auch gehört :D), doch der Sensor leidet auch unter Alterung und Abnutzung. Möglich sind einige tote Pixel und mehrere hot/cold Pixel. Je nach Budget musst du dann für dich die beste Entscheidung treffen. Das Modell in deinem Link ist auch Infrarot-modifiziert, was wie schon gesagt zu Problemen führen kann. Ich habe meine Kamera auch von der Seite. Damals hatten sie noch die 750Da im Angebot, jetzt scheint es die 800Da zu sein. Die Garantie wird dabei sein, bei deinem Gebraucht-Kauf bin ich mir nicht sicher, kenne mich bei ebay nicht aus. Meine Empfehlung: Astromod Kamera; nach Budget neu, oder gebraucht mit leicht abgeschwächter Leistung. Hoffe ich konnte helfen! Möge die Nacht mit uns sein!

[@kalti1244]

@@AstroAddict Ok, vielen Dank für die schnelle und ausführliche Antwort. Meine zweite Wahl wäre dann eh die 800Da gewesen und werde mich wahrscheinlich auch für diese entscheiden. Derzeit besitze ich eine Canon 6D, welche ich jedoch nicht modifizieren möchte.

[@AstroAddict]

Verständlich, ist ein super Teil (bezogen auf die 6D). Ich habe die specs der 800D kurz überflogen, scheint ein etwas besseres Modell meiner 750D zu sein. Somit weiß du von meinen Bildern was damit möglich ist ;)

[@kalti1244]

@@AstroAddict Dann fehlt mir nur noch die Übung und Erfahrung, dass ich auch mal so gute Bilder machen kann ;)

[@anotherdamnyankee3805]

Music track is louder than the speaker

[@gm010379]

THANKYOU...