Should You Premix In Your Rotary Engine? - Explaining Your Oil System and How Much Premix You Need

[@TestrunRX7]

Just curious as to why no one has mentioned water injection if we are worried about carbon.... To some it is the best mod you could ever perform on the rotary. I run Royal Purple HPS with Zinc and blah blah with omp and 1oz per gal premix (idemitsu) in my FD. My plugs are perfect. I run a lot because I am running non oem apex seals and skurd of added wear. (To the arm chair quarterbacks Royal Purple was one of the 1st synthetics ever used in a rotary.. so yes it is ok). And to really get crazy I use 10w40 with and sometimes even throw in 1 qt of 20w50 to thicken it up... oh no!!! I am running running 14psi on some upgraded Hitachi twins and have the smallest nozzle on the AEM setup starting around 9psi and max at 14psi. Besides helping with knock, it steam cleans the whole motor constantly. *Premixing only with no omp one has to remember that when foot is off the gas the premix is off the metals. *using methanol will wash off your premix and omp added oil so becareful and use maybe klotz(spelling?)... something that methanol won't break down and wash off easily. Awesome channel man. Can't believe I never saw you before!!!

[@Roxie.the.rx8]

Can we be friends lol

[@rotaholikzhds906]

if you run water injection you MUST change your engine oil regulary as your sump oil will begin to turn to jelly,,, from mixing with your engine oil,, with water we run a water injecyion setup for what we do,, but we have to change oil every 2/3 events its a must

[@TestrunRX7]

I have never really seen any jelling or anything in the oil. It gets changed way to often. I had to remove the turbos recently for an exhaust leak (2 broke studs on the manifold) and when I stuck a camera up the exhaust ports all looks absolutely beautiful, but you could see a little bit of gel like substance on the rotors. They were very clean though. Agree or not with my method of madness but, with how things look after 10k plus miles with after market seals I am very pleased. I just melted a fuse holder to my fuel pump though lol

[@juanmangerita]

Been building and modifying rotaries for over 30yrs and always seen better results with pre-mix.. Use quality 2stroke oil.. Its spreads evenly on apex seals and side seals

[@c.b.6350]

Yes I agree. The quality of 2 stroke oil is a big factor. And idmitsu is not necessarily the best.

[@daesyoung]

Prolly cus ppl silicone the cover dog!

[@paytonstanley7975]

Which 2 stroke oil do you recommend?

[@juanmangerita]

@@paytonstanley7975 klotz motul warren

[@fdsamatt5763]

@@c.b.6350 What is the best then?

[@slugcoin2024]

Hey, Rad. Another option is an Omp sandwich plate adapter by Rotary Aviation. This allows you to feed fresh cool two-stroke oil from a separate reservoir in your engine bay straight to your OMP rather than it suck up your sump oil. We recently installed one on my girlfriends S5 RX7, I'd be happy to share photos with you if you're interested in learning more. My mate who has been building engines for years now swears by this technique, it's the best of both worlds, half way between premixing and factory Omp.

[@ThreeDaysOfDan]

I want to get one of those in my SA . Dirty oil is no bueno

[@ve2430]

It's called a Sohn Adapter kit here in these parts

[@gearsnogames9616]

I had my 88 fc convertible for 3 years. The worst problem for idle and warm start issues was making sure I kept carbon build up to a minimum. Sea-foam had saved my rotary from not being able to idle at purchase after 1 month of use in my gas tank. Bought the car and the rpms would dive and flood if I didn't ride the gas pedal keeping her alive. Once the engine was clean, plus a new starter my hot starting problems were gone and my idle issues were gone and solid at 800 rpm. 3 years my oil meter pump was working solid and my engine was strong. On a interstate cruise I randomly met 2 rx8s and us 3 took turns passing each other at 120 mph. 18:35 Rad mentions how the excessive premix can gunk up stuff. First of all, fuel injectors aren't designed for premix, and will clog and gunk up. Using a injector cleaner/ carbon build up remover can greatly increase the reliability. Also got to remember the Rotary slogan, " A red-line a day, keeps the carbon away". Keeping tracking of your oil viscosity is also key with compression and seasonal temperatures. I found in summer 50w was key to reliable starts and lubrication. As soon as the seasons changed and fall kicked in I would find the oil being too thick and needing a 20w for winter. Older cars used to have oil charts under the hood for different seasons.

[@natekurtz429]

Can I just say I love this channel dude

[@RADPotential]

Thanks man!!! Just trying to help yall learn some stuff!!

[@FacesintheStone]

It’s fukin RAD

[@efaracing4000]

Man i love how you pause.....realise theres more info to drop and actually let us know 😂 cant thankyou enough man!

[@RADPotential]

Trying to keep the radformational videos pretty raw

[@efaracing4000]

@@RADPotential i really enjoy the raw videos, feels as if im actually popping down to see someone with actual knowledge and a tech talk rather than being pumped info relating to money and business profits haha! Thanks again man! Also on a side note have you got much experience with boosted renesis engines? Long story short i would love a rew but the budget currently leans to the renesis( have two in the garage) and im getting real impatient now to crack on with the project car🤣

[@RADPotential]

I have a friend with a boosted rx8 on adaptronic. I think just over 300 hp. I'll get some more info from him

[@efaracing4000]

@@RADPotential great stuff! Look forward to hearing about it thanks!

[@Rouketosa3]

One thing that is not mentioned here is something Rob Dahm said recently. The oil you put in the engine ex. 10w-40 is meant to withstand high temperatures and not to be mixed and burnt in a combustion chamber. It's harder to ignite and leaves behind deposits. That's why some people like to delete the OMP or use an adapter with a reservoir to make the OMP feed premix oil in the combustion chamber for easier and cleaner ignition and protection.

[@joogullae3456]

What's OMP?

[@Rouketosa3]

@@joogullae3456 Oil Metering Pump. It's essentially a little pump the squirts a small amount of engine oil into the combustion chamber to help lubricate the housings etc.

[@joogullae3456]

@@Rouketosa3 aahhh thanks man. You're the best. I thought it may have meant that since the video guy kept saying it but I wasn't sure if it was a certain brand or not.

[@drd1924]

Not only that, Dahm mentioned that as your engine oil becomes dirtier and dirtier....guess what gets injected into your combustion chamber? I use Amsoil Saber since it burns clean is designed for 100:1

[@youngbreed72]

The no longer make the sohn adapter for 12a engines, however I hear you can modify the MOP to draw from separate premix tank. You should make a video on how to perform this mod.

[@elcid8609]

I appreciate your hesitation in telling these guys what they don't want to hear. Mazda knows their engines better than any engine builder.

[@Sir.Munoz.1117]

So how can you tell if your omp is working??

[@rokenwolf]

I think one thing I'd like to see addressed on this topic is whether excessive pre-mixing can cause issues in places where you need to pass emissions and if it can effect your catalytic converter by, for example, clogging it with excess carbon. Otherwise, phenomenal information!

[@RADPotential]

I am not opposed to running a ton of premix in an engine and seeing what happens haha

[@spoonsarefun]

@@RADPotential it would do the same as a overoiled dirtbike... it would eventually fill the cat with half burnt oil and stop it from doing its purpose and take away from exhaust flow and resonance all the while reducing performance...more oil less fuel and air in same space...the more lean a 2 stroke runs on oil the better it runs...until it doesn't.

[@oldrrocr]

Thanks for this information! just for me: 1/2 to one oz per gal at 16:50 - 18:00

[@IStratz]

I agree with your ideas for sure. I daily drive my RX8 and do not premix. I have a catalytic converter because I have to do yearly emission tests, so i don’t feel comfortable putting even more premix through my exhaust (I just had to buy a OEM RX8 1200 dollar cat). Definitely think changing your oil more often is for sure the best thing you can do. A lot of people fight about the synthetic oil debate as well, and i think since we change our oil so often and burn it off, synthetic is not really worth it. In the instance that someone does hard track driving, then i would agree putting more premix (0.5oz seems perfect) would be a good idea. If you are just doing track only, then yeah no cat, full premix (1oz maybe 1.5oz), synthetic oil, and no omp would be ideal i think.

[@sloppyjoe2974]

Late reply but with Mazda edit you can control the output of the omp so it injects more oil

[@LordCakeskull]

I ran 250ml of premix per full tank in my Rx8 (works out at about 2/3oz/gal) for several years, increased to 350ml per tank (about 1oz/gal) when I noticed my sump oil level wasn't changing, as I suspected I had one or more blocked oil injectors. I had been using castrol 2T oil for premix, but switched to Mobil 2T oil because the price had dropped and noticed a few tanks of fuel later that my sump oil level had started moving again. I think the Mobil oil had cleaned out whatever had blocked my injectors, so the quality of premix oil matters as much as the amount in many ways.

[@rx7ocke867]

Hi from good old germany😉 cool video👍 I am driving a 1.gen SA 12a using the oil metering pump but modified by using 2 stroke oil from a seperate tank. My car is a low milage one with a clean engine.

[@nathanwright8477]

New owner of a series 4 FC here, mixing 250ml per tank with omp still. Equals to about .5 ounce per gallon

[@wesley0a]

S2 RX8 uses 2 fully electronic OMPs both of which are relocated. One for the 4 side injectors one for the 2 center injectors.

[@samusjuice]

Sadly not on low rpm

[@alexisgalarza202]

I premixed for 5 years, removed the engine to Bridgeport and found no wear, it almost looked better. I premixed maxima premix 150ml to 13 gallons. I had good results, but not sure if I was correct. I could tell the difference of how loose the engine felt with different oil brands.

[@RADPotential]

That's awesome. What apex seals?

[@alexisgalarza202]

@@RADPotential I was using two piece Mazda OEM for a 12A

[@josephfriedrich9792]

@@alexisgalarza202 what brand oil?

[@alexisgalarza202]

@@josephfriedrich9792 Castor 927

[@josephfriedrich9792]

@@alexisgalarza202 right on, ill give that a try.

[@DartzIRL]

I premixed my engine. it makes me feel better. Especially since the oil-metering system can be tetchy on long motorway runs. I've been running 200:1 ratio. The engine seems to run better on that - it's not load-transmitting lubrication like on a 2-stroke crank-case or piston. The engine got cracked a few weeks ago and was in great condition inside - but that was unknown mileage since it'd come from a previous car. --- I think my injector jets are clogging. It uses very little oil.

[@benjamindonohue5457]

Castrol 10w-30, southeastern temps. Lucas 2stroke-oil 1oz/gal of 93/90non ethanol fuel. Stock motor, leaky OMP. Leaky pan. Good spark. 146k, S5 NA. Starts right up, loves getting ragged, no idea metrics but not a single combustion hiccup. Rips smooth to redline. Little puff of blue smoke that disappear once gets closer to operating temps. Previous owner said he never premixed. Been plenty of times where I modulate up or down depending on driving intentions and oil capacity/quality. Car likes cooler humid mornings, idk if that has anything to do with steam. I’m no expert. But in summary, compression seems healthy, revs smooth, pretty much no smoke, .5-1.0oz/gal, maybe some injector cleaner to convince myself the little molecular fairies are putting in overtime on carbon deposits

[@lourensbadenhorst2732]

Thanks for this video. I'm rebuilding my 13b now with a working OMP and was planning to premix 1oz per gallon and never thought of the extra carbon buildup it can cause. Going to go with 1/2 oz per gallon

[@RADPotential]

Especially during a break in phase where you're not beating on it hard. Id be a bit more carefull. Check the plugs

[@joogullae3456]

3 3 3

[@georgiostheodorakis4170]

​@@RADPotentialδες😂😊

[@TestrunRX7]

With the Apexi PFC and most aftermarket ECUs you can up the inj also. I have mine ever so slightly modded.

[@billlll1]

my son recently bought a 1995 RX7 it has a oil feed the previous owner told him to add pemix in the gas he ended up mixing too much oil in the gas causing spark plugs to fowl up The car is running very rough a lot of smoke out the mufflers and stop running I took the spark plug out replace them it’s Ryan really good for very short time and figure it out there’s too much oil in the gas I drain the tank and I’m going to put. gas in it with no premix will it burn off the car carbon Buildup hopefully it will run better run if not how do you clean out the carbon buildup

[@patrickdunster9067]

Hi Rad. Fascinating video, as always. I'm about to buy a 2009 R3, which has the series 2 engine, and therefore a 3rd oil injection nozzle to help internal lubrication. Would you recommend pre-mixing for this engine as well? The car is completely stock, and has 52,200 miles.

[@plav032]

I want to know how much premix reduces octane rating vs oil metering, or if it matters. For the guys who are running higher boost on pump gas.

[@RADPotential]

I wonder if I can figure out a way to measure that?

[@chrismedia234]

In the S2 rx8 it has tow oil metering pumps underneath the plenum each has 3 lines.

[@dionisiosmatiatos1647]

Hi, Great Video!! I've just purchased a 1981 FB, what petrol should you use and also what oil should you pre-mix? Thanks

[@joshuabranson74]

Here's the thing my daily driver 04 RX8 just turned over 130k on original S1 engine. I've had it since 2012 4k miles. Never premixed a day in it's life I check compression every 6 months since 50k at 120k I was 120 psi on both rotors at 129k I was at 115 R1 and 105 at R2 I'm building a New engine next weekend. I am a mechanic and I used royal purple it's entire life also changed ignition coils every 10k miles then switched to LS1 ignition coils and replaced them every 15k miles. I noticed even the revised ignition coils through Mazda are garbage I've had some not even last a month. Anyway I go on 150 mile straight through trip once a month and I leave around 5 am in the morning during summer and anytime in the winter and I'd run semi the first leg and run the dog shit outta of it for sprints at a time 3 and 4th gear all the way out the last leg and with a bore scope the difference between what it looked like before and after big difference but I've done this religiously since 4K so build up always stays the same. Anyway going to put a new engine together clean my original and put it in a case and keep it forever because the memories and miles I've have with this engine is to sentimental to ever get rid of or even rebuild it deserves to be unchanged I am going to tear it down to clean and just see what it looks like I was 22 when I bought the car.. send me you're email and I'm send pics from what it looks like when I open it

[@RADPotential]

Hell yea man!! [e-mail]

[@onemantwohands5224]

A dude who has grime from a good days work has my approval!! Listen up guys !!

[@RETMTM]

Too much oil actually reduces the octane rating of fuel and especially in forced induction applications can lead to detonation. Smoke and deposits as you discussed can also lead to uneven hot spots and detonation. I only use mineral oil in my Rotary Engines. 20/60 Penrite HPR60 high zinc. It's Australian made and the temps are warm to hot so despite owning an FD I still run the thicker oil. I haven't touched the OMP and regularly check oil levels. I barely drive the car (it's actually the last registered FD RX-7 sold in Australia). Having said that I still premix about 2.4oz per tank of synthetic Silkoline Kart racing castor (mainly for the smell and reduced deposits compared to natural castor oil) Here's something I have always wanted to do and if I ever get a brand-new motor I will run water injection purely for the cleaning benefits. Years ago (15) I knew a builder who personally ran it and explained that the steam during combustion kept the motor crystal clean. We've all heard about steam cleaning or seafoaming motors (I have run distilled water very carefully in a controlled manner through the motor) which decarbs. My motor idled better and was a lot smoother (do not take this as advice to do so) hence why I would love to run water injection. Your explanation is sensational. This channel is great. I applaud your style and look forward to more of your content. Have you ever done a video on an FD bushing replacement PPF and suspension?

[@RADPotential]

Thanks man!! That is some epic information. I'd love to try some of those things in some of my personal builds. See what impact it has!! I dont have a video on the FD bushings, my buddy who owns this black one wants me to do that work at some point lol. I havent given him a price yet

[@RETMTM]

@@RADPotential Thanks for your reply. I'd dare say your quote would consist of lots of labour. He should definitely do it!

[@robertoakley9609]

I have owed two '79RX7 and now just bought an 06RX8, when I had the RX7's the first one had been on the track and had after market swaybar and after market suspension the race engine had been replaced with a stock jim motor with 30K on it. I was given another 79 that had a jim motor also. I found a product called XADO, that I put in a 79 F-250 3/4 ton pick up that really did a fine job restoring the compression. The XADO is a ferro ceramic technology developed in Russia that grows on the wear surfaces and builds both weight and dimension that is a 9.5 on the moas scale in hardness . That old F250 had God knows how many miles on it, the engine a 6.9 International non Turbo V8 was taking 4-5 attempts each morning to get it started in the summer. I bought one tube $33.00 1/3 of what would fully rejuvenate the motor because I was broke and planned on getting the other two tubes on payday. these tubes were about the size of a tube of Blistex, small. I squeezed out the contents into the oil filler. I logged about 300 miles that day and the next morning it started as if the engine was new two turns if that and it started. I flashed back to the RX7 and thought this product would be perfect for the rotary engine, it builds a ruby hard coating protecting the parts from wear and won't void warranties on new vehicles so your engine won't wear at all ! They have oil and grease also tranny and rear end products as well. My RX8 had 98K clocked when I bought it, I put it in the crank case oil then logged about 3000 miles ovet about 1.5 months and the power gains were and smooth running engine was impressive to say the least. I have it in every rig I own, no metal to metal contact means up to 50,000 miles between oil changes because the oil stays so clean. try it you'll like it.

[@arvin6606]

So you just pour the XADO in addition of engine oil? Does it affect OMP in any way or do you have any side effect on the rotary engine?

[@robertoakley9609]

I have used XADO for over ten years, having owned two RX7 models one had a oil leak that turned out to be the connecting rubber tube off the metering pump, there were two tubes that pumped crankcase oil into each throat of the carb on the 12A '79 model. The one that leaked caused one rotor to lose compression. Had I known of XADO then I don't believe the engine would have failed, due to the ferro ceramic protection of the product that grows off of any surface where friction occurs. I believe it is the ticket for longevity in rotary engines. by mixing the xado two stroke oil in the fuel or using their regular crank case oil, both have the same ferro ceramic technology. I have noticed improved low end torque and smooth idle so far, and plan to use the oil and mix in the fuel and its my daily driver, it just turned 100K so it's a perfect test car. so far so good, I hope to see 300K or more with no lose of compression. just search for the distributor in Wichita Kansas and read the testimonials from people like me. @@arvin6606

[@DuckWhenIBust]

Which 2 stroke oil do you plan on using for your FD? I plan on getting one in a few months and i feel that your channel will be a huge help to me

[@StephenAdrianVenter-om2qg]

thank you buddy.....very interesting!Makes sense why 2stroke oil is kinda important in a rotary....

[@edlippjr]

I love how you have every different version of things just laying around... here's the later model, here's the newer model... here's a secret one Mazda is working on for 2026 launch... lol

[@RADPotential]

Haha I pretty much have them all. I have some rx8 stuff its just not here

[@joogullae3456]

Bro I have a playlist called " Future car"thats for my r3 in a year that I'm saving every penny for from my paychecks and 3/4 of those videos are yours lol

[@poetro2567]

SAME

[@joogullae3456]

@poetro2567 bro I don't have it yet:(... I'm close tho...more than halfway there to bring able to afford a good one. I hope you have success in your jurney

[@rotaholikzhds906]

We have used the pre mix, formula off 10/1 for over 20years so 10ml to 1litre fuel and have seen no engine damage at all in any engines,,, with the engines we have a omp pump 3/5ml to 1litre fuel,, and have no issues you have to take into consideration thou that the rx8 models over 06 dont need to be premixed at all as mazda installed 6lines to feed the engine any model rx8 pre 06 only have 4 and have been known to be not enough oil and also malfucnction,, but constantly changing your engine oil to your engine is the key to a succesful long engine life,,, if you put to much in hou itl start clogging your injectors and sparkplugs,

[@beastonator345]

Something I haven't seen people talking about is how, when using the OMP, you have to compromise on the oil. Newer, better oils that lubricate better tend to burn dirtier and oils that burn cleaner tend to not lubricate as well so it could be best to remove the OMP, use a better lubricating oil for the main oil and premix with an oil that burns better, i.e. premix oil, and get the best of both worlds. I don't own a rotary but I am looking into buying an RX-7 so this is based on online research so I am interested to hear other opinions from people who know better than me.

[@RADPotential]

Best situation. Block off the OMP. Run a good engine oil, and go full premix. Better lubrication dispersion In the housings that way. You can find quality engine oils that burn as premix. But I tend to premix all the time regardless of the OMP. You never know when it could fail

[@beastonator345]

@@RADPotential Thanks for such a quick reply on a year old video. I found your channel recently and I have to say you make great, very informative videos. Do you have any experience with rotary cars like that, without the OMP and full premix. If so, is it markedly better and are there any trade offs. Also, if 1/2 ounce per gallon with an OMP is good, is 1 ounce per gallon without good, too little, or too much. Thanks

[@RADPotential]

I run everything I own with no OMP (1 oz per gallon) and only premix besides my rx8, the rx8 I left the OMP on and I premix .5 oz per gallon for street driving. 1 oz per gallon at the track.

[@yucannthahvitt]

One issue with running no OMP is that you will have to turn off DFCO which isn't practical in a street car because it increases fuel consumption a lot and causes more flames out of the exhaust.

[@johnj2496]

Excellent honest info Related but unrelated I've heard SOME of the reason why diesels last so long is the fuel has high lubrication property's Yes I know they are built heavy duty And are low rpm revving Everyone has heard of the old shade tree red neck tune up trick of running a lil auto transmission fluid in there gas in a piston engine It has high detergents to clean and oil the fuel pump injectors

[@tommygibson9515]

Very helpful, really enjoy the info on this channel

[@lanaff2234]

Still helpful in 2024 dude thank you ❤

[@christianc1562004]

Love the video bro. Lots of information

[@thebigpicture2032]

Thanks for the info! Is there a way to tell if the system is working. I just bought an 83 RX7 with a 12a carburetor. I don’t have any history on the car so no idea if the system is working.

[@RADPotential]

Pull the oil lines off the carb, start the car. See if oil comes out

[@timblack394]

Whats the best brand/brands of premix should be used?

[@ThreeDaysOfDan]

if anything the one benefit pre-mixing has over the omp is the elimination of dirty oil. Dirty oil effectively acts like sandpaper, as the dirtier the oil gets the more contaminants to get into your sidewalls and it causes wear. I'm 100% sure a lack of timely oil changes is the culprit and NOT the omp , people might skip an oil change and they are effectively sanding the life of the engine. Probably why the guy who tracked his rx8 had a nice engine. He probably changed the oil every track day so he had pre-3000-mile oil changes. Also rev your car up to 7k once a week on Idle , fuck stressing your trans and gearbox out, just rev it to 7k for half a second a few times in a row, that should take care of the carbon . Rx7's ARE NOT meant to be babied my friends, rotarys don't like it

[@RADPotential]

For sure man!!!! All my friends stay on top of their oil changes. So it seems they would have good results from the OMP

[@ThreeDaysOfDan]

@@RADPotential i have a question, can i run synthetic oil in my 12A? Iv heard people tell me not to use synthetic but you seem more knowledgable

[@RADPotential]

If you run the OMP you cannot use synthetic oil as it doesn't combust well. Of you have deleted the OMP then you are able to run a synthetic oil as it is just being used as a bearing lubrication and cooling

[@philroysutherland4186]

Pre-mixing also gets to lube the side and corner seals.

[@ThreeDaysOfDan]

@@RADPotential no OMP !

[@keltro3053]

What 2cycle oi do you use or recommend also do you use conventional or synthetic in sump and/or premix ?

[@RADPotential]

Any 2 cycle will work. Penzoil marine stuff is what I have been using since I go through so much of it. Can get it by the gallon lol. Engine oil. Always run conventional if you have the OMP functioning.

[@RX7MAN27]

Got a 80,000 mile 12a for 10 years should premix? Also have another build in works does transmission make difference from 12a to 13b? All I have are 12 parts

[@RADPotential]

Premix all the things IMO. Except maybe a bone stock rx8. As far as transmissions. 12a-13b do have differences in gear ratio and internal bits. I have found the FC 13b trans to shift better at high rpm than a 12a trans. Look at the gear ratio charts. I think on mazdatrix website and pick the one more suited to you. I know the FC trans have a closer 1st to 3rd and a overall shorter final drive than the 12a stuff IIRC

[@erikwahlstrom7826]

Do the oil injector squirt a continuous stream of oil into the engine or is it pulsed?

[@BrianGochnauer]

I disassembled my FC NA engine today out of my airplane with 600 hours (~25,000 miles; I guess if automotive for time) 15 years of running 99% of time at 5500 rpm continuously and very near or at WOT runs about 10 gallons per hour (aircraft speak). No metering pump; I ran 4oz in 5 gallons (160:1) rather than the 1oz to 1 gallon (128:1). 6000 gallons of fuel which would be about 90k miles in a car! The side housings showed ZERO wear and pretty much zero wear on the rotor housings; except for the slightest ghosting of chatter marks, nothing I could feel but you could see them with the right light. Using cheap full synthetic 2 stroke oil (think Walmart) I would love to see a video on identifying rotors from the FC/FD different years - mostly for picking compression ratios.

[@RADPotential]

I can make that video sir!!! Awesome data from your plane!!!! Super cool to see them used in aviation. How much does your plane weigh?

[@BrianGochnauer]

@@RADPotential 1960 lbs max. it is a Glasair Glastar GS1 (experimental/homebuilt) kit plane

[@ve2430]

@@BrianGochnauer sounds dangerous but cool. What happens on a small plane if there's mechanical failure? Do you have like a parachute ready just incase?

[@yucannthahvitt]

100LL or mogas? LL will reduce wear.

[@BrianGochnauer]

@@yucannthahvitt God NO, I never use 100LL unless I absolutely have to!!!! Horrible fuel, not only does it have Tetraethyl lead there are other metals often used like manganese in Canada; not sure why you think lead reduces wear; it is strictly a detonation (octane) fix. When I have used it it makes my oil dark very quickly with contamination and I use Decalin to capture the lead and reduce the deposit issues on rotors and spark plugs.

[@abdulwaseer6054]

I just found your channel after months of loving a rotary. Where were you!!! haha. Anyway, I have a question. I am in love with Fc's and I do have another car for a daily so as I project a car I would love to buy a rotary as my first enthusiast car, obviously everyone says they are bad ie. online, but I am connected with them. Any tips for new owners and I will definitely watch all your videos! Other than the make sure the car is warm and don't beat on it unitl the temps are correct and no short trips, like there are so many things to do premix as well. I would love a video like that! Thanks and have a great day!

[@RADPotential]

I may make a video. New rotary owners. Watch this

[@abdulwaseer6054]

@@RADPotential I would love it and appreciate it! Thanks a lot

[@littlebitofeverything8307]

Seem like logical points.

[@meteoro_rx8]

What do you think about the sohn adapter? Would it be better to use regular oil or 2 stroke oil with it?

[@dgoodwin1055]

How can I determine if my OMP is functioning? Thanks for any help. 83 12a stock. The guy I bought it from said he rebuilt the carb, but I've already come across several flubs.

[@RADPotential]

You can pull the lines off the carb and make sure oil is coming out

[@Phanton-Racing]

Hello. Where and how can I buy a factory new 12A motor??

[@user-ts9nq5zw2j]

Good recommendations.

[@josephfriedrich9792]

My issue with the omp is when it fails unexpectedly

[@codyeastburn7419]

Hey rad I'm building my 13b rx8 engine and using atkins cryo treated apex seals would I be better off prefixing . 25 Oz per gallon while breaking the engine in and then after the break in period going up to .5?

[@sheldonarthur4754]

Try using a Filtermag on your oil filter and extend your oil reliability.

[@johnj2496]

Yup my grandfather taught me that too You can pop apart a old car speaker those have great magnets

[@Dingus420]

Have you heard anything about premixing with diesel instead of oil, or in addition to oil even?

[@ramoncruz9910]

Thank you brother...good information😬😬😬👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@josephshubert7536]

I use 4oz per tank on an '04 RX-8 6 port. Any thoughts? It seems a lot lower than what you're saying but I do still have a stock omp with no sohn adapter

[@JohnLabu21]

How's your renesis?

[@josephshubert7536]

@@JohnLabu21 Still turnin strong

[@JohnLabu21]

@@josephshubert7536 what brand premix do u use?

[@josephshubert7536]

@@JohnLabu21 idemitsu

[@JohnLabu21]

@@josephshubert7536 too bad we dont have that brand in my place

[@daesyoung]

Hell gyea ty for the front cover omp tip fareal

[@c.b.6350]

I have a fresh engine build in my rx8. Housings were in perfect shape and in have never had the omp functioning. Only premix.

[@RADPotential]

Keep me posted if you ever tear it down or send a bore scope in it. I'd love to see the wear pattern on the housings

[@c.b.6350]

Will do brother.

[@jdmimportlogistics]

Nice explanation RAD potential- just scored a period correct 13B out of a running 74 RX-4 (albeit he said it was smoking a fair amount) for my 75' Cosmo. Plus it was a freebie so basically a unicorn haha. However due to this he kept the front cover and oil pan. Will a front cover from a 77' RX-3 SP 12A or 72' RX-2 12A fit? And if so, what about the oil metering pump? Probably stuck trying to find a 13B set-up but was just curious- (maybe there are some later model 13B front covers that fit as well?). Also can I wait a month or two before tearing the motor down to avoid damage from the coolant? Thnx in advance brotha!

[@martrome7449]

What’s the best rotary engine

[@martymitchell4464]

What spark plugs do you use in a 13b street port

[@dalincocaj]

can someone tell me what this promix is for and what they did is good to do this or bad

[@casinc.2138]

Okay bit a concern, I'm going to get a rx7 with a 12a it's stock, let's say you delete the omp and premix your fuel every time perfectly, when you let off the throttle and the carb isn't spitting fuel Into the engine, wouldn't it also have no lubrication left? Would it not be better to have the stock pump and just have it suck out of a tank, since it puts the right amount of oil whenever it needs it no matter the rpm or throttle position?

[@RADPotential]

Decel fueling with a carb is idle fuel regardless of the OMP. The OMP simply injects oil into carburetor fuel bowls on. 12a nikki carb

[@dooshgoosh]

Do you have any opinions on mineral vs synthetic vs race castor oil? I'm running a 12a bridgeport (video on my channel) Also have you thought about a RAD Potential facebook group?

[@RADPotential]

There is a rad potential FB page. I dont have a group made persay

[@MrTopHat4]

has anyone tried that *engine restore* product on a rotary? it works well in piston motors, i wonder if its as effective on a rotary.

[@ramoncruz9910]

1982 Rx7 12a 278,xxx miles original miles...pre mix😳😳😳😳😳👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. It works please pe mix

[@ketsis9717]

So premix if you don't have a carb

[@stephenhoffelt3259]

Fantastic video!

[@And3rs88]

1oz per gallon = 125:1 - 1/2oz per gallon 250:1 for anyone outside the US

[@keltro3053]

I use synthetic in the sump and synthetic 2 cycle premix in fuel and no injection system for use in an experimental aircraft that has a constant duty cycle at of between 6 & 7000 rpm...Do you have any opinion on my choice of oil for this use ?

[@RADPotential]

Should be just fine!!

[@jo-qp7mz]

In my rx8 I use rotella t6 15/40 and a lil more or less than 1/2 oz per gallon pre mix I use idemitsu but my rx7s our down right now so it's just the rx 8 drinking it

[@jameskennerley2781]

Aircraft have a slightly different oil need due to often long periods of no use compared with a daily . I thinks it's so.ething to do with moisture in the crankcase. Google is your friend.

[@davidcarson993]

ok what kind of prefix

[@944turboracecar]

good info here thank you

[@Itsyaboyharry98]

Premix Army

[@onemantwohands5224]

Hahahha YESSSSS!

[@johncorreia9041]

some one offed me a gslse 13b 2k with 90 psi on both rotor is that good or on its way out??

[@RADPotential]

90 psi is solid as long as all the faces are around that number

[@johncorreia9041]

Hi ima run car on my gslse. engine. where can i get the plugs for injector holes.

[@potymouf1]

I have a stuck oil control ring on the outer part of it on one of my rotors how do I get it out

[@RADPotential]

I'll make a video about stuck seals next week

[@potymouf1]

@@RADPotential I ended up taking a screwdriver and mallet and breaking the seal itself. Wish I could have saved it

[@potymouf1]

And I have another simple question. How are you supposed to replace the front and rear main seals with the engine apart? I can’t seem to figure that out lol

[@davidcarson993]

what oil

[@jdmimportlogistics]

I read that 12A engines shouldn't really use premix is this correct?

[@RADPotential]

I would premix regardless in a 12a, but the OMP system in a 12a is going to more effectively lubricate all of the housing as its mixed in st the carb

[@jdmimportlogistics]

@@RADPotential Ok cool thanks for the advice. So still an ounce per gallon and which brand to you prefer for the 12A?

[@KenBober]

My oil metering still work but I still premix 1 to 1.

[@whyshouldipickaname]

that's a lot of premix oil!

[@KenBober]

No issues, no blue smoke.

[@RADPotential]

As long as your getting it nice and hot to keep Burning it off ship it!

[@KenBober]

No 1 Oz to 1 gallon.

[@whyshouldipickaname]

so thats 29.5ml per 3.79liters which makes 7.78ml per liter in the "1 ounce" mix, or 3,89 ml in the "half ounce" mix it's hard to wrap my head around the american units.

[@onemantwohands5224]

Subbed dude great trix !!

[@alouisschafer7212]

For real you can make any engine last half a million miles with good oil and regular oil changes. For premix id only use smoke-free fully synthetic 2 stroke oil

[@WiZoRD_C45]

...and how good does premix smell when you first crank it over from a cold start...oooooweee

[@SaadKidwai]

Thank you

[@ChrisRxSpecialist]

Just to know: On S2 Rx8, there are well 6 oil injectors. But they don’t have any vacuum. They work different than all previous oil injectors. On S2, oil injection system work by pressure (approximately 1bar/1,5bar need to look back in the documents) After listening your video, I can confirm you that I have the same feeling than you about premix. And I can add too, the better way to use rotary engines is to drive drive drive a lot and longtime. I can also add with my experience of driving, I drove my RX8 around France 2000+ miles for 10 days then I compression test back and I was surprised to see I won almost 3bar more (premix 100/150ml putoline (for ethanol) with ethanol fuel e85)

[@gsilva220]

To see why premix is beneficial on wankel rotaries, turn the rotor on it's side and look at one of the faces: It is a rectangular piston.

[@Soravia]

NONE, if you have 2009+ engine with three injection ports and electric injectors. I've opened mine at 48k miles and ZERO housing wear.

[@The_Scribe14]

Hi guys very late comment I know but What do you premix with? I’m flying to Japan early next year (because I can import two FD Rx7s for the price of one here in Australia) these cars will be driven on the odd occasion as I’ll have to trailer them out of town… long story short there’s a lot of indigenous kids that like to throw rocks or even sling shot them at cars and I don’t feel like coping charges 😂 I plan to build one of them for the track and keep the other for local car cruises/events. Does the purpose matter when premixing a rotary?