Should You Trust Your Torque Wrench?

Torque values can be critical for certain fasteners on a motorcycle, and a torque wrench is an important part of your toolbox. But are you putting too much faith in your torque wrench? In this video I'll go over some different styles of torque wrenches, how they should be used, and how environmental factors can affect accuracy. I'll also advocate for using a particular type of torque wrench to help develop "feel" so that you don't get fooled by a reading.
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amzn.to/2Znsf0i (1/4 drive foot pound/newton deflection style)
amzn.to/3gbQEws (3/8 drive foot pound/newton deflection style)
amzn.to/2NIKk3u (1/4 drive inch pound/newton deflection style)
amzn.to/3dQlA3Y (1/2 drive foot pound/newton click style)
amzn.to/38j5oqJ (1/4 drive inch pound/newton click style)
amzn.to/2D09Ejr (1/2 drive newton electronic style)
amzn.to/31w7RwN (3/8 drive newton electronic style)

[@ryteulopki8069]

Overtime accuracy 20 years old beam style will still maintain 4% accuracy. While 1 year old "click style" will require calibration. If you are DIY or just cannot afford $100 calibration every year - beam style is deal breaking and offer way superior accuracy/consistency to other wrenches. Obviously if you are able to afford $500 wrench and $100 yearly calibration, then yes accuracy will be better ;) But for under $100 (a year) you wont get anywhere near to beam style ($20 for 20 years).

[@kalijasin]

I prefer the old school beam style. 1. They cost a lot less. Are significantly cheaper. You can get one for under $30. 2. Are easier to keep straight/parallel. No slightly up or down like you was showing. 3. The pivoting needle can be slightly off to the right or left of zero so sometimes they do need trued up by re straightening of the beam shaft. They never need calibrated or sent out to be calibrated though. 4. Are simpler and easier to use. 5. They just have two beam shafts and that's it. No coil spring like with the click style and as we all know springs get weaker over time due too wear & tear, fatigue, etc.

[@tinderboxarts]

I don't disagree--I often reach for the old school style first.

[@identifiesas65.wheresmyche95]

I honestly think beam/deflection wrenches are a lot more accurate in the $20-30 price range. I've seen some really accurate clickers but they're typically more than twice that, often 3-5 times more. The digital ones with the strain sensors or whatever they're called are impressively accurate too!

[@iamwezlee1]

Great video! Good explanation on how to get the feel for torque values. A very important skill to attain. One problem I’ve also observed is that guys who use the “click” style, and after setting a torque value and using the wrench, neglect to reset the wrench back to the “zero” value to release the tension on the device. This will stress the tool and cause it to go out of calibration sooner. Thanks for your content!

[@tinderboxarts]

Yes--when you open up a storage case and find the wrench still set to the previous torque setting you know you have a problem! And I guess my primary point is that if you develop a feel for torque values by hand, you'll recognize when a torque wrench has gone "off" because it won't feel right compared to the value you've set.

[@brandonboulton2776]

Honestly this was the most straightforward accurate introduction to torque wrenches on KZbin. I agree on deflection wrenches. I only use my old reliable Sears deflection torque wrench. Excellent points on the external factors involved in torque values.

[@tinderboxarts]

Click wrenches have their place, but I most often reach for my deflection style too.

[@boatman222345]

Always good to encounter someone who knows what he's talking about! That said I would just add a couple of things. First off click style torque wrenches are currently "in." Because of the settable nature of them there is an implied degree of accuracy...you turn the knob to a certain value, apply the torque to the fastener, and the wrench clicks when that value is reached. The trouble is that there are dozens of manufacturers making this style of wrench and quality, accuracy, and prices vary all over the place. One would assume that the more you spend the more accurate the torque wrench but I've seen accurate evaluations that show this not to be true. I saw one test of an expensive click style Snap-on Torque Wrench that demonstrated the wrench was off by more than 15%! A much cheaper brand proved much more accurate. What's important to note here is that the test only evaluated 1 example of each. My guess is if you tested 10 different examples of the same wrench you'd probably get 10 different degrees of accuracy! While,the old beam style torque wrench might lack the bells and whistles it's much cheaper to manufacture and thus money not spent upon bells and whistles can be spent of better quality materials ensuring both a higher initial degree of accuracy and a longer working life. Last, but not least, on really critical applications manufacturers sometimes specify torque values for both dry and lubricated fasteners as well as a recommendation as to which is the preferred method. It's a good idea to follow their advice.

[@tinderboxarts]

Well said. And, you are quite right about noting the difference between a lubricated and dry fastener. Since the torque wrenches are essentially measuring resistance or friction, if threads are greased or oiled, or if they are rusty and dirty, it will make a difference. Torquing a new, clean and dry bolt in a factory can be very different from torquing an old, oily or rusty bolt in the field ten years later. Mechanics need to be aware of the potential for over or under tightening.

[@petethewrist]

Now this old type of wrench is dependent on where you apply the force as it bassicaly measures bending motion in it long arm. This would change if force was applied anywhere but the handle.

[@tinderboxarts]

Correct, which is why they "pin" the handle in the middle.

[@larrywilson7933]

You said once it clicks, it won’t go any further. That’s not true. The “click” only lets you know you’ve reached the set torque, but you absolutely can go past that setting if you keep pulling on the handle. Some people will even click it more than once, that will over torque the fastener and can break the bolt. Click it one time only to be accurate, provided the torque wrench is calibrated correctly.

[@tinderboxarts]

Okay, yes, if you continue to pull after the click you can go past the setting. Some mechanics prefer to "double-click" which actually should not hurt or change the setting if you again stop after the click. And the clicks are going to be maybe 3-5% accurate to the setting anyway.

[@arisskarpetis]

I like how you are talking about how the condition of the fastener (rusty, oily or dry threads) affects the clamping force you get for the same torque reading. And therein lies the art. I wish we could measure clamping force directly but no tool can do that. Only doable in lab settings. I guess what you can do to correctly use torque as an implicit measure of clamping force is to always use new fasteners or have a strict standard on the condition of the threads before making torque measurements. Nothing is ever simple!! 😂😂

[@tinderboxarts]

Yes, fastener condition is such a critical factor in using a torque wrench. People become obsessed with the numbers, forgetting that the numbers are only as good as the reality in front of them. In truth, mechanics who are experienced and have been working for years or decades rarely use a torque wrench except for critical components such as cylinder heads or bolts into fragile aluminum, etc. That's because they have learned and built muscle memory from countless hours of work how tight is tight enough. That's one reason I prefer the torsion arm style torque wrench, because it allows both the wrench and the user to monitor the fastener.

[@2wheelsrbest327]

Another great video John 😊. I have had a problem with my BMW GS and I have had to remove the rocker assembly. I have managed to reassemble it but its not been torqued up. Primarily because I have several torque wrenches but I am afraid to use them on old nuts & bolts. What is also so interesting is that I dug out of the back of the cupboard an old style torque wrench and considered throwing it away as I have several click types. That is now remaining part of my tool box kit. As an amateur mechanic I have decided that the best thing I can do is to pay for a professional mechanic to finish off the job. I dare say that with his skills and experiences he may not even need a torque wrench. Personally I am old enough to remember over tightening too many head and exhaust pipes on my old British bikes as well. Thanks again.

[@CorgiDaddy]

Thank you for posting. Always like to hear your view and opinions. Makes me a better DIY motorcycle enthusiast.

[@TheOtherBill]

Excellent video, but at 3:10 you say the beam stays steady but the pointer deflects, but it's the opposite, which you can see from 13:24 to 13:34. The pointer doesn't move, the beam deflects and the gauge moves with the beam.

[@tinderboxarts]

I could have chosen my words more carefully, I guess. I was trying to express that in use the pointer changes relative to the scale attached to the beam. The actual physical action is that the pointer is staying put and the scale is moving relative to the pointer, but that would be an awkward introduction to the tool. Ultimately it doesn't really matter as long as you are using the tool correctly.

[@niloyu105]

Please advise which one have more advantage to buy; 1. Ordinary wrench + digital Torque Adapter 2. Manual Torque 3. Digital torque wrench

[@tinderboxarts]

The "beam" style torque wrench is easily your best choice. It's inexpensive, accurate, and gives you good "feel" while you tighten. The electronic or digital styles are expensive in comparison and not necessary.

[@niloyu105]

@@tinderboxarts Thank you so much for honest advise more support especially Ads 👍

[@caracolrojo]

I got my first set of torque wrenches recently in beam style. Their handles are fixed, though. Do you know what the purpose of the swinging handle is? (as opposed to a fixed one)

[@tinderboxarts]

The point of that pivot point is to create better accuracy. You use the handle so it "floats" on that pivot point, and that ensures a precise distance between the force of your hand and the business end of the wrench. The wrench is calibrated to that point. If you wrench does not have that, just place your hand in the center of the handle in use.

[@FlashGamer521]

Do you know how the Precision Instruments Split Beam Torque Wrenchs (PREC3FR250F) operate? Seems like it has a dial and clicks. Is it just a combination beam and click style?

[@tinderboxarts]

Yeah, it does look like some combination, but I have not seen one or used one in person. Seems over-complicated, though.

[@MrShobar]

The issue is not strictly accuracy, but repeatability.

[@tinderboxarts]

True, the torque wrench is a useful tool, but we shouldn't expect perfect accuracy or repeatability.

[@paulmullins102]

my beam torque does not move the needle any way of fixing it thanks

[@tinderboxarts]

Probably not! They aren't expensive, though, so maybe it's time for a new one.

[@sdjnwhyNZ]

Seems like If you hang this plumb and keep it dry every time after use, it's gonna last forever.

[@tinderboxarts]

Of course quality may vary among brands, but if you get a decent tool to start with and don't abuse it during use then they generally will stay fairly accurate.

[@chris1275cc]

LOL the handle on a deflecting beam does NOT need to be held floating in the middle on the pivot it is supposed hit the sides so wherever you grip the handle the forces are always applied to the 2 points the handle contacts the bar. little to no torque should be applied to the actual pivot itself.

[@tinderboxarts]

Laugh out loud if you wish, but the joke is on you. The pivot point of the handle is where the tool has been calibrated and the whole point of the floating handle is to concentrate the load in that area. If you allow the handle to hit the side at another point you have changed the leverage ratio and therefore the accuracy of the tool. You can find this information in your user guide. Here's a link to the first one I found with a random search: www.srtorque.com/media/1860/beam-wrench-care-tips-857312.pdf

[@boatman222345]

tinderboxarts Oh the confidence of those who don't know what they are talking about! As suggested in this excellent video the floating handle is designed that way to ensure that with the handle centered the force is being applied at the calibrated point. I'll bet this guy also checks the torque set by backing the fastener out and seeing if it takes the correct torque to do so....😤