▼ Simplify3D | Print 50% faster with the same quality in Simplify3D

[@3DProspecting]

Thanks for this. I never used that wizard before. I used to split my processes manually and then set all of the individual settings - including start/stop heights speed, infill, etc . I would do this by viewing the cross section and moving the slider, duplicating the process and changing the settings.. Your way is much faster. I am not gaining any speed from my print times since I pretty much do what you show but I gain 1000% speed increase in getting the processes set up. Well done. Thank you!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Your welcome. Yeah, you are already making use of the variable layer height settings. No speed advantage for you... Sorry :-) Glad this method speeds up your process of getting there.

[@MilestoneVids]

Me too man ! I used to manually split it. Frig I wish I seen this video sooner !!

[@donr62]

3:38 Great tutorial thank you. I’m new to Simplify3D, can you explain what you mean by adjusting the printer while the skirt is printing before it starts printing the main part? Thank you.

[@3dPrintCreator]

This is a pretty old tutorial. If you happen to have a printer that still has the possibility to adjust bed leveling screws, then adjusting this while the skirt is printing is what I mean. Most modern printers don't have this feature anymore.

[@JesusChrist-sx1lf]

What about disabling speed overrides instead? Or adjust printing speed for layers below < 15,0 sec? Won't that help, or will the print quality reduce too much?

[@3dPrintCreator]

That will reduce the print quality a (and maybe even a lot).

[@ohcrazydiamond]

Bravo! Thank you for this amazing tutorial! I was really able to print 50% faster! Incredible thank you for sharing your knowledge with us Sir! Liked, subscribed and I will donate :)

[@3dPrintCreator]

Wow, Thank You !!!

[@kevinbell1138]

@@3dPrintCreator Modesty...hes right, VERY HELPFUL! (I was manually using the "K"- cut to inspect heigiht location then making each process entering the "K" mm location. Thanks to you I can now just variably select and create the new process - instead of tediously entering the process and mm position :)

[@slicedpage]

very useful video and the information can be used on almost any print. Thank you

[@charlesprest1247]

Thanks!

[@danskservice4549]

Super informative video - i have a fl sun super racer and will try it out on simplify3d which i recently bought

[@3dPrintCreator]

You will love it.

[@zeeman2594]

great video! thank you!

[@dougdaniels]

I would think for a cosmetic print, this would be fine, but for a structural print, you'd be compromising the integrity of the inside structure, much like using low grade building materials on the inner layers of a house where they can't be seen.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Of course, it makes a lot of difference what type of print you make. In this print, which was only 8 mm high, it makes no difference whether 50 or 20 percent infill is used. This because the print really does not become stronger or softer. However, this makes a lot of difference for the bottom and top of the print. On a 50 percent infill, you can put a very nice top layer that looks very smooth, while on a 20 percent infill it simply does not work. The same applies to the print speed. For a middle part of the print it does not matter that you print at 60mm per second, but at a part where the height of the layer is not so great and the layers are also extended at an angle of 45 degrees or brought in, it is important that you print more slowly. But I agree with you that it depends very much on the model whether you can use this method or not, and to what extent you can use it if you apply it.

[@cet96881]

I like that video as you said. :) Thank you!

[@markny8467]

Good video. I was testing this method of variable settings at someone's place last week and noticed that if you have multiple height settings, the top layers of the first process is missing the top layers, and intermediate processes are missing top and bottom layers and last process is missing the bottom layers. I see the same in your video also. Did you ever notice that and/or find a way to fix that?

[@3dPrintCreator]

It's an option if you want the top and bottom layers printed. Every layer has it's own FFF settings, and there you can specify the number of top- and bottom layers.

[@markny8467]

@@3dPrintCreator Thanks for the response. I actually set the top and bottom of layers (top or bottom or intermediate) with their own FFF settings, yet when you print all the sections together, it skips the top/bottom layers' solid infill, and does them with the layer's infill rating only. Upon checking, I found a request on their forum from someone and this apparently is a "upgrade" from the older version, (based on a user request), which would do that solid top/bottom layers.

[@raycap]

Very well explained, thank you.

[@Manosh0303]

Explained very clear

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks

[@Kotdt1]

Great video as always keep up the good work

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks Danny

[@Kotdt1]

you're welcome

[@tyrian869]

Awesome!

[@natif16]

THAT'S GREAT!!!

[@rondlh20]

1.2mm layer height!? Really?

[@3dPrintCreator]

For a good looking high quality print... Yes.

[@rondlh20]

@@3dPrintCreator I had a closer look at your settings, I think you mean 0.12 mm. Nederlander?

[@3dPrintCreator]

@@rondlh20 Lol, now I hear it. Stupid mistake :-) Yes Nederlands...

[@tyrian869]

@@3dPrintCreator lol

[@patricekonrad4972]

Top !!!

[@jonyq04]

NGEN prints best with 0 cooling

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi, thanks for your comment. I don't really think I agree with you, but minimal cooling is very good indeed. I have my best prints with 10% to 20% cooling.

[@pnaxl]

First comment

[@adamg1711]

Thanks!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Your Welcome