SINAR F manual EN

[@BruceSchaller]

What a beautiful style of shooting this you have! It's so clear and free of distractions. Nice work.

[@andyvan5692]

great video, nice to get familliar with a different style of camera; one tip, with the roll film backs, ALWAYS wind the lever or knob, to determine if there is film inside, and if so, to wind it off (put the film inside the backing paper, and the "empty" bobbin), THEN it is safe to open the back!- also, use the film box end inside the film reminder window on the door, to further alert/remind you to a film being inside!!

[@AnnaKatarina-jp3qf]

Thank you, thank you, thank you for posting this! I got a Sinar F a few months ago and I haven't been able to find another manual or video anywhere near as helpful as this is!

[@zucchina24]

THANK YOU so much for this video! I am impressed how you presented it, calm voice, not in a hurry, well illuminated and with a very nice background! Very well done 👍!

[@andyvan5692]

one other feature of the sinar shutter, is that a third cable can be affixed in the connection block, to utilise a safety feature, that of operation of the preview system, by the film holder!, genius?- yep, and a way of preventing light fogging the film, you are sure the lens is closed!, but this is a special format frame, which has this feature installed, the rear, to have the lever, the others to "daisy chain" the cable to the shutter system.

[@keithhudson1248]

Great video with a clear explanation of the Sinar camera and its features.

[@144wychwood]

I'm interested in getting into photography as hobby and fascinated with 4x5 large format. This video is big help in getting me acquainted with large format. Thanks for posting.

[@sgroadie6367]

Good information clearly presented. Thanks.

[@andyvan5692]

fyi, you're forgetting two parts in the assembly process, the rail is in a bush, made of rubber this comes off, and stays with the base or extension rails, to aid assembly, you just turn the knob of the rail clamp fully anti-clockwise, then the claw is lose enough to let the rubber go. the second part is the rail clamp itself, three versions exist, one is specific, in that NO base rail can fit it (it has two extension rail pieces either side, and the 'handle' rotates the camera in YAW, precisely, with angle marks);the other two are similar, they accept the base rail, the only difference between them is one has an open top, to 'jettison' the rail for disassembly, the other has a roof over this space, like a Targa top of a convertible, from my quick research into the manual, the 'open top' is the basic rail clamp, for use for the main system, and is sold with the kit, in all configurations, the second is specifically "stronger" for use on extensions during macro work, no risk of slippage, even with a heavy lens and long extensions (it applies the closing force more evenly over the rail's circumference).

[@sergeydorovskikh]

Thank you very much. High quality video essentials!

[@rupunzel6299]

GOOD! Sinar user since the early 1980's to this day. Nicely done video of essentially what is in the Sinar F user manual and sheet film view camera basics. Some examples of Sinar modularity is included which illustrated a small sampling of what the modular Sinar system is capable of.

[@bubuli]

this is probably the best yet simplest explanation of the Scheimpflug principle and showing how it applies to the camera. you should probably just have that explanation in a separate video. also, as someone currently contemplating buying a Sinar for Macro Photography (adapted to a digital camera/back), I have learned a lot from this.

[@Jan_Mastera]

Thank you. As for using the Sinar system with anything digital you would need at the very least one of the newer P2s or rather P3 which is specifically designed to work with sensors and digital media due to the need for much smaller and refined precision movements. Lenses might also be an issue as most of the analog ones are not going to give you great results on the small format of the digital sensor. Both P3 and digital Sinar lenses are going to be quite more expensive of course.

[@2760slr]

15:30 This is so helpful. Clearly explained easy to absorb. Thank you. 😊😊

[@andyvan5692]

also with focussing, the Sinar Zoom back (120 film), has a mask, called the vario, this has bars which frame the format selected, so you can know what is, and isn't in the shot, and this also replaces the fresnel screen, just snaps in place, Also this variable back, has the Format Frame as the darkslide, the plain 6x9\6x7 backs HAVE a darkslide, so don't forget to check each to ensure the film is protected before removing the backs.

[@Jan_Mastera]

Thanks for the note. Unfortunately, Sinar 120 film backs, and especially Vario and Zoom film backs are usually prohibitively expensive. Vario screen masks are quite handy but very fragile in the school environment.

[@andyvan5692]

@@Jan_Mastera yes, esp. when trying to see an english instruction film on youtube!, the main reason I got mine, was the whole kit was at the camera store, so I didn't want to split it up, (yes, I get you, it was $1,500 Aud in it's own right!) and gave me a 120 option to learn the camera, without spending up big on film sheets, just use 120 until I get a feel for the technique and the film stock I like. One plus of the zoom is that the 6x12 does give you a 'quasi' panoramic format, and a means of getting extra rise, or shift from the normal 4x5' field of view, and cone of coverage.

[@andyvan5692]

one tip, the front standard, that you show in the video is actually called the 'multi-purpose' standard, as it functions not just as a lens std. for the f1 model, but as a support for the bellows in macro extension mode, or as a compendium hood, with bellows for long lens use, or to support the bellows behind, in a focus hood function. this is different, as the rail clamp section is not a 'slide_on' but a snap on, with a clip on base section, so it can be installed between the other standards, without removing one first, to save time.

[@Jan_Mastera]

:) Thank you. I'm glad that someone noticed. I generally try to prevent students from snapping on the standards as the plastic gets brittle with age and we have quite damaged that way. I also think that the original front F1 standard is mirrored "multi-purpose" standard as using the multi puts the tilt scales on the opposite sides of the front and rear. To make a tutorial for the specific setups our students get to work with I have left it this way as it also allowed me to easily rotate the setup and capture closeups of both the front and rear without changing the position of the recording camera.

[@andyvan5692]

@@Jan_Mastera yes, I have Autism, so I notice everything, esp. in my special interest of photography, but one other note, the multi standard does have a companion front standard for the f2 models, which is similar build to the rear, But has NO focus or dof assist devices on the knobs!; also if you don't want students snapping the standard, using the extension is a good idea, put the middle std on first, then the rear (mounted on the ext. rail).

[@sushant2095]

Thanks so much for making this video, Jan!

[@andyvan5692]

one other 'basic' kit element, two brackets and a hexagonal rod, this clips onto the bellows, and the rod fastens to the front or rear standard (focus hood or Lens hood {just watch the rod, it can appear in the shot}) this saves the lens from flares when looking towards the sun, and if you have no focus binocular finder, aids in darkening the surrounds of the ground glass to aid in focussing, as the aperture in this format is 5.6 or 8/9 as far open setting, so dof is quite shallow, so focusing is very important, as its quite easy to miss focusing on a persons eyes, in portraiture, as a mm of motion (focus, or sheimpflug {tilt\swing} )can alter focus point quite a far distance.

[@KonstantinSymeonides]

Very, very good!

[@troubadourNone]

Man I love how you explain the work, can you do dark room videos please

[@2760slr]

So you firstly focus with just the rear standard and no lens?

[@RetroCameraHouse]

Hi Jan, T Thank you for this excellent video. I have question: I saw you have the original manual for the DOF calculator on the side of the focussing knob. Do you have a link where I can download it or can you maybe scan it and send me a PDF? Thank you in advance,

[@Jan_Mastera]

Here you go: 1drv.ms/b/s!Amo6bjmQVDwXnIFqDTX1zDzlW7kMvw?e=HuXbME And here are a bunch of other Sinar manuals and catalogs: 1drv.ms/f/s!Amo6bjmQVDwXl45RRxK4IYUsfx-suw?e=XLqOF4

[@frankhoffmann335]

Sehr interessant.. ich habe hier noch eine neuwertige Sinar C . Vorne F2 Standarte hinten C Gelenkblock. Mit Balgen und 4 Objektiven. Gelagert in Zarges Box. Bei Interesse einfach melden.

[@andyvan5692]

a warning for the Sinar backs, they work differently to the 'normal' toyo, or other brands, use it slowly according to instructions; and when you have flipped the counters' knob from LOAD to EXP. …. STOP!, this is the first shot, open the darkslide, shoot, THEN wind the film, I wound on and wasted the first shot of a 6-shot 6x12 roll 😞 just to help others not to make the same mistake I did.