Singer 400 series chain stitching

[@dddaaz]

Wonderful content as usual.

[@paolo3087]

While as an amateur tailor I am enjoying many of our videos tonight, I would appreciate an opinion too. Time ago I found out a Greist buttonholer in perfect conditions and for a very good price , but i couldn't use it on my 60s Necchi Supernova, because its dimensions did not allow the presser foot lever to go all the way down. That buttonholer is now working magic in a small atelier in Africa, but I still would like to get one, a contemporary replica is sold on a chinese site and it looks ok, but since I found a real connaisseur, I try and ask you for advice. Thank you very much for your work, it's a lot of interesting stuff to watch.

[@jamesrogers991]

Do you know which model of the buttonholer you had? I remember trying quite a few high shank options to find one that worked. I did buy a modern one many years ago and it was really heavy and good quality. If you look at the weight of the modern ones, it can help give you an idea of the build quality because it should be surprisingly heavy.

[@paolo3087]

@@jamesrogers991 that was a Greist Buttonholer, the black model, it came in a green box with all of its accessories, a real bargain like 25 Euros, works great on an industrial machine just lowering the foot bar, as well as on an old portable Singer, the type with zigzag, possibly from the 80'.

[@paolo3087]

@@jamesrogers991 the Greist was heavy and elegant, you could tell it was designed in the late forties, early fifties, now I would like to try this almost replica sold on alxprs around 25 Euros, cams are differents from the Greist as they are split in two, so you can combine and obtain various lengths of holes and keyholes.

[@jamesrogers991]

@@paolo3087 Could you share the link to the model which you spotted? I would like to try the split cam solution. It sounds very interesting indeed.

[@katewarfield2103]

Hi, if you'd be willing to share your files, I'd love to try printing those parts and testing. We're active 3d printing people, and also singer 400 series devotees - my daily machine is a 401. I'm REALLY interested in trying these parts to hem selvedge denim

[@mariamarfil1620]

👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼❤️

[@fredhubbard7210]

Sadly... Clear as mud. I've recently bought two 411g. I couldn't believe I got the 1st for $50... a day later another in even better condition for $45. I was trying to get a a handle on the chainstitch making some prototypes tonight... but I don't understand how it works at all. Further, still can't reliably pull a chain out. Which is to say... I am hoping for another video.

[@davelittle6970]

Hi James, Been watching all your videos on 400's in particular. I have a 411G for a year now, minus the the chain stitch plate and bobbin, shame. Have advanced my sewing ability and now would like to buy a unicorn as well ! The one I'm really tempted to buy (2 hours from my home) has part 503601, but not Bobbin Case 503602. I presume 503602 is needed to chain stitch, please correct me if wrong on this point. Have you managed to get any 3D printed 503602 part ready, if so can I buy ? Best regards.

[@jamesrogers991]

@davelittle6970 -- Thank you for reaching out to me. The bobbin case for the 411G and the 431G are the same. The top plates are different for obvious reasons. I have been working on a solution for the problem of the missing bobbin cases and plates for the machines. The delay is getting access to a few things which were common-place many years ago. I live in a condo so having access to a workshop and the correct tools is a challenge. If there were an old-style auto bodyshop somewhere nearby, I could pop in there and get it resolved. If I were still in high school, I would have access to some suitable tools. That being said, I have managed to get in contact with two architects who can help me. I need to get the design of the part done in the simplest way possible. I could try to get it machined on a CNC machine from a solid piece, or perhaps creating a dye and then bending the piece would be a good option. Ultimately, it may be fastest to do it on a CNC machine even if it wastes metal. I am absolutely open to help from anyone who can assist to get this finished. I have plates designed which work for a 3d printer for testing, but they are a little too flexible so need to be made in metal. If you have any skills to add to the mix, let me know and then we can get you the plates and bobbin case very soon. And, the bobbin case is really simple to resolve if you do not mind putting a bit of glue on it -- there is a small piece of bent metal which is attached to the chain stitch place -- it is rounded on top and bent at 90 degrees. I have tried a few types of metal which I had lying around -- the one metal snapped so I needed to heat it up with a torch, and the other too thick. It will be easy to resolve, perhaps with brazing or cnc again, or I can buy a small metal brake to bend it or create a DIY brake -- the problem is that the bend must be accurate to a very high tolerance. At any rate, I would get the unicorn and call a few friends -- maybe together we can get the parts made quickly. James

[@davelittle6970]

Thanks for the quick reply. I think the question may have been answered, but I need it spelt out clearly as ebay time is very short. 23.13 hrs and need to sleep for work tomorrow. Is it possible to chain stitch without the hooked bobbin ?

[@davelittle6970]

@@jamesrogers991 its a conversation id like to explore at a later date, spot welding etc. but can I chain stitch without hooked bobbin Case 503602 ?

[@dddaaz]

How are you James, we’re missing you.

[@jamesrogers991]

Thank you for saying hello. I have managed to get some really challenging projects done. I hope to show it to you soon.

[@dddaaz]

@@jamesrogers991 can’t wait James😀