Singer Model 66: Reinstalling the Mainshaft

A few days ago, I showed the removal of the mainshaft on a filthy Singer 66 Red Eye ( • Singer Model 66: Remov... , today, that mainshaft goes back in. Once again, as a benchside chat. I'll also be thread chasing a couple of holes, as well as tapping for a threaded spool pin. Note that the adjustment made to the stitch length regulator cam is a preliminary adjustment ONLY, final adjustment of the position of the cam on the mainshaft will be made when the rest of the stitch length regulator mechanism is installed. Fun times, indeed!
The spool pin thread size is #10-28TPI, the thread size for the vertical shaft lower pivot, and for the stitch length regulator knob, is 1/2"-20TPI. Both taps are available from McMaster-Carr. Warning, the price of the #10-28 tap can cause massive sticker shock...
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[@sewterie]

Wow. Beautiful. Thanks for doing this video.

[@chrystalhenthorne8209]

Great video, my husband always knows when I'm watching your videos...it's the body english. I get really involved. It's been a few years since I've used a tap and die set. Thank you!!

[@carmencolon3520]

Bob you are a SUPER STAR 🌟 ✨ 😍. Applause 👏 🙌 👍 👌.

[@prometheansewingmachines]

Ooh, I need those taps 😊

[@gmcxm211]

great video! Don't sell yourself short. You explained all the pitfalls with removing the main shaft and especially in taking care not to crack the main vertical shaft. Along with the detailed instructions on installing the main shaft, so, when I had to remove mine, it was a piece of cake. Without this video, it would have been an all day event, with newly created swear words. It only took me twenty minutes I got a singer 127 the other day for $10.00 (fully intact) along with 110 years of crud. I wanted to see what the hoop-la was about these machines, so I figured for 10 bucks, why not. Cleaning it, I determinded I really needed to remove the main shaft, so I watched this video. My singer had drift pin that needed to be punched out that held the hand wheel bushing to the shaft. because of that, I had to dig out my bearing pulling set to pull the bushing off the shaft. In order for me to tap out the front bushing, I removed the stitch length regulator screw and control rod. Then the bottom pivot pin for the vertical shaft. Removed the pinch screw off the vertical shaft, now the vertical shaft was free to move around to where I couldn't damage it, your advice. To punch out the front bearing main shaft, I inserted a M-16 cleaning rod (the 3 piece steel one, you know which one I'm talking about) through the screw hole for the stitch length regulator. A 308 caliber cleaning rod is too large of a diameter. The .223 diameter rod fits perfectly without any bending. You have to have the pinch screw removed off the vertical shaft for the rod to fit. I only have industrial sewing machines, 9 of them to be exact, so getting a sewing machine that I can carry around like a 6 pack is really different.

[@TheMDelima]

Thank you so much for doing these videos. This thing was disgusting and now looks like a beauty... Of course on the inside 😄

[@luiscarvalho1960]

Excellent video with lots of information. what do you do if any thread is damaged? as always here I leave mine 👍

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

You have a couple of options regarding damaged threads, but that mostly depends on the thread size. Sometimes you can use Heli-Coils, sometimes you can use Time Serts, but the secret to success is to prevent damage in the first place by never forcing a fastener on or off, make use of a good penetrating oil to help loosen stuck fasteners, and apply heat if necessary. Honestly, there are some thread sizes used on these machines where no commercially available thread repair products are available, and more drastic repairs may be necessary. Unfortunately, those drastic measures are beyond the scope of most DIYers and would require the services of a qualified machinist, thus becoming something that is beyond cost effective.

[@luiscarvalho1960]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop Thank you for your quick response. Good work week

[@jodiepotter6029]

Hi. So if you do NOT REMOVE the main shaft, what is the best way to clean all the crud out of that area after removing and cleaning the front, balance wheel and everything underneath? Thank you!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

One excellent way is a bath in Kerosene. You can get in through the back of the machine with small brushes to scrub the worst of the offending crud out. If after cleaning out the excess and drying it off, you then reattach a motor, you can flood the oil points with sewing machine oil and run the machine at half to full speed and continue to flush the oil ports to get most of the crud out. The end result should be pretty smooth operation.

[@debraclogston9379]

I was under the impression that Singer threads were based on 64ths. Maybe the industrial machines?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Technically they ARE based on 64ths - they certainly aren't metric.

[@mamiesews123]

😂😊😊😊😊❤

[@Discobubba]

How do you tighten the pitman arm on a 99 as it was done at 15:04? I have a 185k that seems to be loose in that same way

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

That was tightening the "cage" portion of the vertical shaft so it didn't rattle on the main (horizontal) shaft. That screw ever so slightly pinches the cage together. It's a very fine adjustment, and very easy to set incorrectly. Don't over tighten! Over tightening is just as bad as too loose, except too tight will bind on the shaft.

[@jomercer21113]

Could you cut threads on the old drive-in spool pin?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Yes, I could, but honestly, I don't have the energy when new, nicely plated pins that have threads are pretty cheap.

[@dondavis6997]

How many Ugh Douga