How to make a Viking shield on a budget

Information about historical Viking shields:
members.ozemail...
www.hurstwic.or...
Materials needed:
- Wooden board (linden / basswood, fir, spruce, pine or ash for authentic material, plywood for cheap alternative)
- Carpenter's wood glue
- Nails
- Shield boss
kultofathena.co...
kultofathena.co...
- Linen or canvas cloth (optional)
- Raw hide (optional)
Tools needed:
- String and pencil
- Jigsaw
- Hammer
- Drill
- Small anvil (optional)
Steps:
1.) 01:43 - 2:58 Measuring diameter, drawing the round shape
2.) 2:59 - 6:07 Cutting the board
3.) 6:08 - 8:16 Covering surface with wood glue
4.) 8:17 - 9:35 Putting canvas cover on
5.) 9:36 - 11:53 Attaching shield boss
6.) 11:54 - 13:26 Reinforcing rim with rawhide
7.) 13:27 - 15:10 Finished shield
8.) 15:11 Testing
I did not build this shield to look very historically accurate but it does have the appropriate size, weight and handling. It's intended for HEMA (Historical European Martial Arts) practice and sparring, so it doesn't have to pretty.
Want to help fund future videos?
/ skallagrim
My Facebook page:
/ skallagrimyt
Music:
Royalty Free Music by audiomicro.com/... and www.jinglepunks.com

[@SODEMO2007]

"When in doubt, make the hole bigger!" -Skallagrim

[@biscuitboyz663]

SODEMO2007 tee hee

[@Peagaporto]

poor kara

[@SamEvansCOM]

SODEMO2007 but not too big;)

[@thomasofsparta6695]

No the hole needs to be tight it's more comfortable then ; )

[@xr9381]

Why just use the different hole, I mean there are two hole next to each other anyway…

[@marebbpc]

about the shield boss i think if your really on a budget you could use a steel salad bowl or a dog bold or something like that

[@JaredThorlakson]

I was thinking that myself...

[@germanolivares7072]

It doesn't work, they can collapse after a hard hit.

[@dumbredneck4464]

Marebbpc you can also buy those online for 20$ I know because I’m planning on buying one to make my shield but I’m buying a norse axe first

[@dumbredneck4464]

Good Crusader that’s awesome brother I’m also planning on making a shield for my older brother to have a good day

[@dumbredneck4464]

Good Crusader when I get all the supplies I definitely will that might include a review on the axe but imma tell you it it may take a while

[@thorren1633]

Googled "Regular ass nail".... Don't do that...

[@RS-xq6je]

Ahahahaha

[@kpsiex]

You've made me visualise it.. i hate you.

[@SableLeaf]

"Give me the sticky stuff." - Kara (2014).

[@rcticfloof]

Crusism "oh yeah, gonna send it right on your face" *silence* "aaaanywayyy"

[@maxwellihm5373]

A real viking would just punch through the shield with his bare fist to make the center hole.

[@Cambria358]

***** nice job taking that joke

[@killmypoptart]

***** comment deleted...

[@stefvdv2490]

Jericho Faust yes yes, but a katana would slice right through it. It would just cut the shield in half!

[@loganford9997]

Papa Stef just no

[@stefvdv2490]

Clashing Snow yes it would! Trust me! I've seen Naruto!

[@SpaceMarineTC]

For the boss I just used a steel bowl I found it then flattened the sides out then pop riveted it on the shield , the bowl I got from a second hand shop also you can chase patters on the boss to make it look more ornate , lol:D hope I've been helpful ( bowl was 3 quidXD)

[@DaveDoingDaveThings]

I went to the hardware shop and asked the assistant for "regular ass nails" and got thrown out. haha, just kidding, cool vid

[@AvianSavara]

Awesome video, sir! An oldschool larper's trick for the boss piece is to get a stainless steel bowl from your local dollarstore (funnily enough, same place you'd find the rawhide bone) and hammer it up a bit so the flattened underside of the bowl conforms a bit more into a rounded shape (it also makes it look more handmade). 2-3$ apiece.

[@thesacred2677]

Thank you

[@alanbaird6]

I have just finished one using these bowls hammered out with a ball pein hammer on cushions. 6 more to go.

[@sandukan1001]

Could you also make a video on how to make a practice sword? would be Really interesting to see how you would make one since you know what is historically accurate.

[@velazquezarmouries]

sandukan1001 I made one myself with a little help of some forging knowledge and a homemade forge

[@samraynard8570]

"ass nails, that doesn't sound pleasant." skalagrim 2014

[@Balltrocity]

When working with plywood that delicate I would recommend adding an extra layer of plywood at the rim, and double up on the rawhide. Not exactly perfectly accurate, but more durable for practice without requiring much more material. In fact with some fancy cutting you probably have gotten this with the materials if it was planned from the beginning.

[@TheBaconWizard]

Hey Skall.. I am sure with great care, materials and craftmanship, a shield could be quite a lot more sturdy than this, but if you remember from the Viking Sagas, opponents in duels regularly would be equipped with 3 shields. And now we know why. In my mind, this also gives a different than popular idea of how a battlefield would look. Also Major risk of your weapon getting stuck in a shield leaving you vulnerable.

[@solider691]

"Come on give me the sticky stuff", "aha, right in your face". I'd just like to say when my dad walked in my room he thought it wasn't shield making..

[@MrAllanstevns]

I think its good to note that in viking duelling rules, it was common for each duelist to enter with 3 shields, which could indicate that they didnt expect a shield to last through a complete duel.

[@liamrinehart2116]

Skallagrim an actual Viking shield would be mad with multiple strips of woods placed together, for strength and availability.

[@Skallagrim]

I know, that's why I called this a budget shield. Here is a more accurate version: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZSVqp1mbLitqck

[@jacobw5460]

This is the video I discovered you on. Crazy to think it’s already been 5 years.

[@Aramis419]

"Poor man's rivet" That's a good thought - thanks for the tip and the video!

[@Magmafrost13]

I cannot thank you enough for giving both imperial and metric measurements.

[@caktalfraktal]

Is that sparing room part of your house? Awesome if so.

[@coalcreekdefense8106]

I'm building a shield right now for a friend. The method I read about for putting on the rim is to make a complete loop of rawhide, smaller than the circumference of the shield. Then soak it, stretch it out and put it into place. The rawhide supposedly takes the right shape as it dries and shrinks. Idunno how I'm supposed to stitch it into a loop, but I have some leather working thread and I'm gonna try that.

[@WeaponCollector]

Nice one Skal, great work, came out great. Mike.

[@NorthernForge]

I tend to use a mixture of pva wood glue and water, and soak the linen before placing it on the shield to dry. For the boss I use cut down coach bolts, peened over on the boss side/front of the shield. Doesn't take much effort and looks a lot more authentic. I like that you left half the rim uncovered in order to test the strength.

[@blacksilkblacksilk]

Glad to see you are finally able to pimp your toolbox. Back in the day you where a pretty nefarious builder and I am looking forward to more of these clips. by the way I think that, when extrapolating viking traditions, it would be well within viking tradition to use cheap available materials for training weapons, and to use power tools when available. I am curious though if one layer of cloth is going to be enough. Way back I had a bad experience involving an axe and a one layer shield. But who knows. (and yes I am gultiy to comment before watching it all, sorry) take care silk ;-))

[@Skallagrim]

One layer seems to work pretty well but I should have covered the inside as well.

[@GabrieleAlf]

Thanks for the video. For securing the shield boss I use large nails that I cut 4 cm from the board and then I press down on them with the angle grinder (with the heavyest iron grind blade). The nails heat up pretty quickly and then mushroom like a... mushroom. The wood can singe a little (you can water it before grinding),

[@SAsgarters]

Nice. :) Would have used birch plywood, just because of the enormous difference in quality (at least over here). I've found that spruce is completely unsuitable for any sort of project where it doesn't end up completely concealed, because it cracks and chips naturally. Then again, my experience from using plywood comes from building reptile enclosures. ;) Also, you could use a paint brush for spreading the glue and depending on the type, thin the glue with water. That's really clever getting the rawhide from dog chew toys. All the sources I've thought of have been expensive as hell. I've had plans to make a shield at some point. Haven't been able to decide whether to make a scutum or a heater. :D Not that I'd use it, I just want to personalize it and hang it on a wall.

[@BlakeRTyler]

I'm totally going to make one of these, but with white canvas and paint it. Then it's going on the wall with my Del Tin 2104. I might use it while doing some backyard cutting, just to get a feel of what it's like to cut while holding a shield.

[@SAsgarters]

Blake Tyler Neat. :)

[@aaronjaeger6861]

I tried getting my rawhide from rawhide bones, two years ago, but it was completely unsuitable for making a rim with.

[@vikingmike97]

Thanks for this video. Very easy steps to making a Viking shield.

[@FaizalYacob]

The sword stuck to the shiled. This will be a disadvantage to the attacker. Now I could see how the Viking shiled is such a succesfull tools in a fight/war. thanks for sharing.

[@a__asnow6402]

please correct your misspelled words

[@FaizalYacob]

Adra Adam The sword stuck to the shield. This will be a disadvantage to the attacker. Now I could see how the Viking shield is such a successful tools in a fight/war. thanks for sharing. . . . Happy?

[@a__asnow6402]

much better...

[@kevgmei]

You can just copy your corrected comment, edit your original, and paste to replace it.

[@Jumanji1st]

Regarding riveting the cut-off nails. If you drive them through the other way round so that the pointy end you are cutting of is at the boss' side its pretty easy to rivet them. Did this with my first shield I made this way and it still is holding very well. Also if you have access to old wooden cable drums you could use the outside of those as the shield. This stuff is really heavy duty and sturdy and makes an excellent training shield.

[@huonheta7395]

hi just a tip i picked up the other day, if you get a 3" PVC pipe cut a line lengthways then cut off 1" 2" 3" sections, they make awesome clamps, that would do the trick for you hide application, and cheap, love you channel by the way, awesome content, good honest well thought threw info, Cheers

[@skaruts]

I dare you to build a crossbow. :)

[@brandonfoley7519]

Jeorge sprav built one

[@Czeslaw9426]

I like seeing the saw dust move with the vibrations when the video is being fast forwarded.

[@VitorJTekkRodrigues]

Nice weapon, Mr. Romans! It bended on a Plywood shield! LOL

[@VitorJTekkRodrigues]

PsylomeAlpha I know, I know! I just couldn't pass that out without making fun of it! xD

[@tylerloving2851]

I love the test at the end, there is a reason why this weapon was used for so long. Center grip something in front of a weapon works. Shields work.

[@badbadbob1]

I am thanking if I ordered the center cap. I would set the cap inside the hole from the back and let the rim screw from the back side as well. Cleaner look and still you can use the screws no one will see.

[@ShinKyuubi]

This was a cool video since I have wanted to make my own shield myself and to be honest I would have NEVER thought of using the rawhide dog chew toys like that despite how many dogs I've owned in my life so I really like that little cost effective outside the box thinking you did there.

[@TheMachineMother84]

I like this guy... he even sounds like a viking

[@Slender_Man_186]

He's pretty much a Weeaboo, but for Vikings.

[@rdwaldofeastanglia4327]

Never realised Vikings spoke with American accents

[@CyprinusCarpioDiem]

He's Norwegian

[@WeedStriker]

Naturemanguy92 Thought he is Canadian

[@lukas-kevynmuller6697]

Weed Striker Norwegian living in Canada hahaha

[@theviking6052]

Lol , I think I just found my answer to why you use the metric system! And man that looks so much easier to do with those gloves . I always use a card. And that nail technique is awesome thank you

[@NDjinnn]

You did a great job, I am by no means saying you did anything other than a great job, but consider some other things for you to try (or the other viewers). I've probably made 60-100 celtic and viking style shields. I liked to use "upholstery tacks" there are some strong and nice looking ones. You can also nail them designs for cosmetics and they are also great at deflecting the edge of the sword blows. The are pretty nice rounded over, a better look than a screw and better than a nail. Check those out. Also try using a glue called HH-66 under the canvas than a wood glue over the top of the canvas. If you want to use leather for the whole shield face you can get scraps for cheap at many leather and craft shops. The rawhide is a great touch, I knew one guy that weaved his rawhide and use the weave for the face. Ugly, but interesting.

[@Skallagrim]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@Asertix357]

I used a similar approach in making my own viking shield. Although I went with a 36" width, with only 1/4" thickness to save on weight, and I skipped the canvas because of the mess involved. I also included a shoulder strap on mine.

[@The_Gallowglass]

10:48 I was gonna say, "You can then mushroom out the end to rivet it." and then you did. :D Good man. A regular old smed!

[@The_Gallowglass]

Oh! If you're so inclined, and have one, next time use a ball peen hammer. It will make your rivet be more rounded and uniform. Give it a couple strikes with the flat, then use the rounded peen to mushroom it out.

[@drekastelpa]

Smed=Smiður

[@DruidicRifleman]

OSlatraigh Very cheep way to make rivets for armouring

[@EnfieldP53]

Thankyou - good useful advice and the testing proved the integrity and function of the shield.

[@MikitheCCfans]

Today we learned that the gladius is not for thrusting a shield xD

[@benfarnsworth9224]

You should do a video on viking shield fighting, with the techniques and so forth

[@VelicoFides]

Poor Gladius :(

[@damenwhelan3236]

cobblers nails is what you use. they have a long point that can be twisted and trimmed before hammering flat.

[@Ephieites]

Great idea, thanks! And thumb up for wearing protection goggles! Way too many people underestimate the danger from splinters. Allways protect yourself!

[@TuberGreg]

I've made a few shields in the past and some things I've learned: -Get a cheap paintbrush and cut the bristles down to about 1.5" to spread the glue. You'll get a more even disbursement and it can be reused. -Heating up your nails, even in a campfire, will give a more medieval look to them. Also, use a peening hammer, instead of a flat hammer, to peen the nails after cutoff. Shield making is a rather fun project, your first was a grand success.

[@theRozman88]

If you wanted to do a more durable shield I would put two thinner boards of plywood with the wood grain pattern being on a 90 degrees angle and just sticking them together rather than just one 1 cm board.

[@phillipmiehm2580]

So, I actually just started building my own, and I found that making a circle cutting jig and using a router gave a much cleaner cut around the edges and in the central hole. It took a little bit more effort, but a router isn't much more expensive than a jig saw, and it gives a much more precise cut.

[@damenwhelan3236]

if you want to make a boss from scratch.... hahahhahaha.... unless you have a forge. if you have a dog bowl and paitence. message me.

[@LusoOutdoors]

Nice video. Like the idea. Gladly, blades probably wouldn't strike so much on the edge and the person holding it would angle the shield somewhat thus becoming a flatter hit. And even the ones that would end up doing that cut which is worse type strike, it shows the shield does give adequate protection. And yes, soft steel points bend :) For the boss, maybe a small thin metal food bowl/ food mixing bowl/pet bowl would work as well, and be quite cheap (bargain stores, etc) - one would just need to drill some fixing points in. Your channel is great, both level headed substantiated opinions :) and how to videos.

[@IFrozenFireI]

"Right in your face"? That sounded weird...

[@IFrozenFireI]

elmohasaposse I don't think it's that. It just doesn't sound right. "Give me the sticky stuff". "Right in your face". However you look at it, it sounds wrong.

[@Szczur0gniowy]

elmohasaposse It actually sounds weird. Who puts a carpenter's glue on someones face? It actually sounds like a horrible way to die, something a mafia would do.

[@Szczur0gniowy]

lol. You've thought I was serious?

[@statehome2116]

TV 5 TV.A

[@velessnake4501]

I adore that longsword he used for the cutting test.

[@diegomasiero1784]

"Give me the sticky stuff" "Yeah right in your face!" Sexual pun anyone?

[@johnhill4263]

Thanks you for posting this video , it was a good reference in my own Viking Shield project.. also in PG , BC

[@diegomasiero1784]

OH CRAP, the gladius....

[@victoriansword]

This was fun to watch. I hope you share more projects in the future!

[@RikkiTheRose]

Historricly it would be better with rawhide and historricly they did not have plywood xD so the layer of linnen or hide was essential for a shield fit for battle

[@RikkiTheRose]

easyest source of rawhide* not cheapest. attaching linnen after the flattening of nails would be a good start xD

[@DrolthKar]

A washer and a roofing nail make a pretty effective combo in making cheap but durable rivets and look fairly close to accurate at a glance. Also if peaning the rivet is hard on a shield boss using a bit of pipe held in the vice to give it a more curved surface to fit the shape of the boss or if you have a proper anvil the horn would be used instead, failing that turning the shield over and laying the flat side against your anvil or vice would allow for easy penning of the shank from the front shield. On practice or display pieces this may work best and would be more than acceptably aesthetic. The only other sugestion is instead of using screws if you're looking for a more rivet shaped cap on it a small lag or carriage bold and a bit of grinding to remove casting lines and burs and than as Skal did cutting the excess material from the back side of the shield. If raw hide is unavailable also consider an old garden hose or tire inner tube as a possible stand in for reinforcement as you can apply it before the cloth layer to cover it up and it will still function than if you desire that contrasting rim you can apply a suitable cloth wrap around the edge to simulate the leather or hide bands. I've also used spay adhesive in place of wood glue and even done metal flashing as a reinforcement layer over ply wood than riveted it down to keep it in place on larger shields it may take a fair sized sheet or two smaller sheets to accomplish this but it will still take cloth covering well for aesthetic finish or even simply painting right on the metal. Doing this Norman kite shields and others are also manageable.

[@SteveZerker]

I had a ruined 60cm (24") diameter thin copper tabletop that looked the part for some kind of shield. A layer of 1.5cm MDF between two layers of thin plywood (All stuff I had lying around) worked pretty well. A broken belt worked for an arm brace and a grip. As there was no hole in the centre, there was no need for a boss. I have access to lathes for metal spinning, so in theory I could add one if wanted. Since everything was made from stuff lying around, it was a good free shield. I'm not sure how the copper face and rim would hold up to weapon cuts, but as there's a reasonably thick (though not in good condition) section of hardwood below it.

[@user-bj8kj2jn4n]

When we make shields, it's generally a good idea to put leather around the outside so it doesn't get in the way. For the nails in the handle, we them in from the face and bend them back into the handle. If you want to paint it, it's probably a good idea to do it before putting the leather or boss around it. To prevent swords biting into the edge, underneath the leather, we put rope or garden hose around the edge. But we use blunt steel for fighting. To prevent splintering at the back, you can put another linen or canvas cover on the back before the handle, but most of us generally don't worry about it.

[@youmaus]

After you and your crew sack a remote Christian monestary of unarmed monks you will be able to afford a better sheild........:-)

[@The1Helleri]

You can lightly hammer the sides of the nails to give them a square nail look (they will look like they are square nails that way after having hammered them into the wood). Those galvanized roofing nails curl over a bit to when you do it which makes the heads actually bite in nicely.

[@sneakyvanquisher]

I don't like seeing that gladius bent.

[@Skallagrim]

It took me 20 seconds to bend it back. Not a big deal at all.

[@LionsTigersWhoWins]

***** But real shields are made out of tougher woods. Plywood is sorta shit for a shield.

[@LionsTigersWhoWins]

Okay,cool did not know that.

[@hyuugaamida]

***** Hoplons were not metal shields. They were primarily wooden with a bronze edging or occasionally a full (thin) layer of bronze on the face. Even in the Middle Ages this is the case. Bucklers are generally the only functional shields made entirely of metal as the small size compensates for the weight. You're right about the scarcity of resources though. It's much more practical to make shields and other disposable weapons largely out of wood and reserve materials like steel for swords and armor.

[@KainYusanagi]

Lizardleo As I noted above in another post thread, cheap wooden shields were actually favoured by many a warrior because whena blade bit deeply they could disarm their opponent or pull their opponent's guard wide open, leading to an easy kill. Hardwood shields were fo more when defense was the priority, rather than utilizing both hands towards the killing arts. Pavises are a good example of a wooden shield that benefitted from being made of hardwood over soft.

[@Odood19]

Nice music choices, loved the tutorial. Thanks Skall

[@ErikHoevenberg]

god that is the uglyiest shield i have ever seen but it is functional i guess... also if you get your sword stuck in that shield you are pretty much fucked

[@Goku32112]

It was made on a budget after all :P

[@KainYusanagi]

BloodTempest The thing is, cheap pine shields were favoured by many a warrior BECAUSE weapons could bite deeply into them- when they did, it was easy to wrench them from your opponent's hand, or to twist it out of the way and open them for an attack of your own, or similar tactics. Oaken shields were for when defense was the priority, rather than utilizing the other hand as an opening-making tool.

[@30mmPwnage]

For cutting tests on wooden shields, you definitely need to keep the grain of the wood in consideration. Even when laminated like plywood, it doesn't have the same properties any way you slice it.

[@beezlbobdestraint6869]

I'm vegetarian, so what could I use instead of rawhide?

[@Skallagrim]

Beezlbob Destraint I wish I knew... I'm vegetarian too but this is one of those cases where I simply cannot find a good alternative.

[@beezlbobdestraint6869]

Damn.

[@tobender4ever]

I'm no vegetarian, I love meat. But If you like creative anachronism, the guys that inspired this video mentioned nylon threaded irrigation tubing or aluminium something or other. I can try to find the link if you want, but I don't think metal or nylon/rubber are animal products.

[@tobender4ever]

That last part wasn't sarcasm, I didn't know for a long time that jello was an animal product.

[@progeriahoes2781]

watch ZednoughtAlpha video he uses a type of fabric i think

[@MeleeTiger]

I personally like to use hand tools when I can, this was a good video either way of course and I'll keep this info in mind for the future.

[@sniperofbuffalo]

Thanks, Skall. I've been looking all over for a tutorial like this.

[@hybridpsycho]

You shouldn't be surprised by how you managed to cut the shield, you had made the shield completely stationary and swung at it from a direct angle with intention to cut the shield rather than a person behind it. Nice to see this though, especially since im about to make one of my own soon. Will go about it in a similar fashion, but it has to look a bit more historically correct I guess.

[@skiskate15]

Thrand made a video on making a viking shield. I followed his guide and got one that turned out pretty good although mine is 3 feet across

[@VelikiHejter]

That is fantastic, I've been planning to make a shield for quite some time, original plan was to make caetra but viking shield is more my size, thank you!

[@Aconitum_napellus]

Cool shield, I quite like the dirty look, it makes it look rustic and more used. Also you two are very handy, if I tried this it'd just be a terrible mess.

[@rohasfin]

Might you use the fact that a sword will cut into the edge of your shield as a blade-trap while fighting? Bait them with the flat, catch their sharp edge with the edge of your shield, then spin the shield to put a lateral force on the blade?

[@adamsummerford5698]

Cool demo, I found this looking for what I'm going to use for a handle in one I'm working on.

[@RobertBeowulf]

You are a godsend sir, I am desperate to obtain a shield and I dont have the ludicrous £150 that makers demand for even a simple shield. I will have to source a sheet of ash or pine soon.

[@stevena8326]

the canvas also hides the grain of the wood during battle because if your goal is to destroy the shield as quickly as possible you make a swing going with the grain so hiding it prevents that

[@jonathanryals9934]

the sword cutting into the edge and getting stuck actually seems to benefit the defender as it would hamper the next attack. if you wanted to counteract this you could line the edge of the shield with nails (lengthwise) and hold them on just inside the leather strip. overlap the nails a little, maybe even stack three in a triangle formation with the joints all overlapping in thirds...

[@mvl8209]

I would have thought that you insert the boss from the inside, before you put the handle on (because of the lip where the screws are), I thought that goes on the inside of the shield instead of the outside.

[@TheQuinian]

if you're worried about the way the nail looks you can try furniture tacks. They come in silver, brass, and "nickel" which looks like a dark brownish kinda whatever.. looks nice though. The heads are rounded too so you get the cool rivet look

[@bigbro1989]

Made one ourselfs, too, we used 3 sheeds of thin wood, opposed glued plus 2 or 3 sheets of linnen. Makes it much more durable! Linnen on the backside would help, too ;) Bend the nails and hammer them back into the shield

[@bigbro1989]

ah, forgot to mention: Linnen on the backside would help, too ;)

[@ChessdumyTV]

Ah so thats why viking shields were so solid and tough! They had a center grip; much stronger than one of those leather strap grips, probably more comfortable too.

[@ndalby187]

you're crazy man, that is absolutely beautiful. i do have one suggestion and that is to put some iron/steel strips on either side of the boss (it helps deflect sword strikes and absorbs impact better) also i would use iron/steel banding around the rim over rawhide but that is mostly asthetics

[@SpecOpCellBorn]

They also sell pre-cut round wooden boards at Orchard Supply if you're in the U.S. Saves a step if nothing else.

[@TacticalNorwegian]

Nice! I'm going to make one myself.. but I think I will use thin planks.. And if i'm lucky this deer season i might cover it in deer hide...

[@blasty137]

If you're not sure about the size of the whole, you can always use a cardboard first to see whether your hand would fit with a gauntlet. Also, if you want to use actual wood instead of plywood, you get some forklift pallets, they can be extremely cheap if you know where to look. They are usually made of pine or fir so it's even historical. It will be hard to find wide ones though, and they are too thick so you would have to find a carpenter willing to make them thinner.

[@TheRealComradeOtis]

Hey, Skallagrim. Haven't commented on your videos lately. But I've gotten some of my HEMA friends into Viking HEMA, and am using this video to make our shields. Thanks, and keep up the great videos :D

[@kylebates3627]

Nice video there. I've been thinking about making a shield as a side project, but going sort of all out with it. at my local hardware store you can buy sheets of flat woods, not just plywood, and the place I get my sheath leather has some thinner stuff to use as a cover. Either way, this is a great demonstration of how to do it.

[@elgostine]

it's always fun to see people using information posted and blogged about by people you know (in this case the ozmail page by pete and christobel, whom i know personally, hes a really top notch researcher, and being a lefty, wielding one of those light magyar sabres, hes also a fiendishly good fighter...

[@SkintSNIPER262]

Thanks for the video. It's perfect for a Saga I am doing.

[@Aelienthib]

For better strength I advise bonding two layers of wood looking good that the fiber direction is perpendicular to prevent it from splitting lengthwise and as fastener, leather straps or rope may be sufficient even to handle possibly to a broader, more on the outside of the center to slide the forearm and have a better grip, especially with non-circular shields

[@ericpfeiffer3463]

The old Scandinavian people, if I am not mistaken would glue pieces of Linden or Fir or Poplar of opposing grain, with the grains going the opposite way to give strength so the shields wouldn't split, splinter or break. How they made the dome shaped shields I would assume they got the planks wet and steamed them into a dome shape, not sure.

[@samoax575]

came out nicely, i made one in school last year, but i didn't find any websites selling shield bosses that had shipping to Norway, so i bought an round magnetic tray in a car store, ripped off the magnet and just hammered in some small nails around the edge while on the shield. as for the leather to cover the shield edge i didn't know of any cheap soulution sadly... but now i do so, next time i'm in a mall i'll check the dog section for some rawhide thou ehehee thanks!

[@MediumTim]

A rolling pin wrapped in saran wrap is great to spread out glue evenly into the fabric.

[@TRUPAC12]

Instead of nails,use nuts and bolts, when you're done then grind the bolts so it looks like it's old nail (rivets) :) Furthermore, put at least one layer of wood rotated 90*, because of wood lines, you can alternatively leave one part without that , so that part can be used to catch other's sword.

[@longrider42]

Yep, I made one using almost the exact same method. I sewed the rawhide I used, on my edge. A dremel tool was most useful. I also made my handle from a 2x2 which I shaped by hand. Would I make another, hard to say. it was alot of work. But I've gotten alot of good remarks on it when carrying it in festivals and ren fairs.

[@dustinmellen5983]

Ideally, you would use a hardwood like oak. You'd have to get the boards as most oak plywood is only a veneer on a cheaper hardwood and edge glue them together, possibly with dowels. Cover the boards in some heavy hide. Reinforce the rim of the shield with a roll of steel flashing. Just use a nail punch to pierce it, bend it over the sides and use the nail punch again. Use carriage bolts to secure the handle as they have rounded heads and only fasten from the nut side. Not historically accurate, but it would be tough.

[@7dark7shadow]

for the metal part that goes over the handle you could probably improvise something, like maybe a metal pie plate or something like that and drill holes in it

[@stur46]

One tip: you could soak the whole shield with line seed oil that way the wood, canvas/linen and the rawhide are less likely to fail during intensive training. Other then that great tutuorial is wish I had such an tutorial when I made my shields.

[@nobiscumdeus4119]

And whatever you do, don't let the shields get wet. The weight increases a lot. Boiled Linseed oil not also waterproofs but also hardens the wood when it dries. Don't just cover the front of the shield with linen, but the back as well.

[@nobiscumdeus4119]

Also, we used masking tape to hold the rawhide down while it dried. Worked very well.