Skillbuilder: Design for CNC Joinery

[@IgnoreMyChan]

Cool! I'm not into the CNC nor wood world but I found it a really interesting problem that I never thought about. Thanks for this!

[@MAKE]

IgnoreMyChan thank you!

[@ph1gm3nt]

I have to admit, the last option looked the most interesting.

[@yannkitson116]

You can fill to "holes" with an epoxy fillet and create structural joints... like those used in boat building.

[@ManCrafting]

Great info. I haven't ventured into the joinery like this yet, mostly because I haven't needed to for any of my projects, but I am sure it will come up.

[@BlueyMcPhluey]

great video and now I really want the book

[@Kreith32]

No it was me 🤣. When I use my xcarve there is a box tool which uses one of these joining methods. Nice to know two others. Thanks for the video. I think I will order the book Greetings from my channel, Arne

[@kevinleemedlin385]

Great video! Thanks!

[@nexus01gr]

Would the T-bone connection with a couple of split dowels filling the voids be considered "fine" woodworking? I wonder...

[@cek347]

Thank you. Good explanations.

[@AnwarKhan_786]

Nice concepts. Thanks.

[@timothyporter1632]

What drawing program are you using?

[@harrycollins6304]

I have just watched several of your videos and I quite enjoyed them, is it possible you could let me know what desktop lathe you use please? I am interested in what make it is, many thanks

[@SebastiaanMollema]

Thumbs up guys!

[@risenga_junior302]

Thumbs up dude, AWESOME staff

[@StuffWithKirby]

Great video. It was nice and short and the fusion tutorial parts helped explain it.

[@QLTD]

I use laser cutter, and I don't have this problem.... but I have lot of other problems

[@kevincoates1597]

Quick Look n Teardown ton of problems. The laser is cool but it’s just a toy compared to a full sized CNC router

[@ouroboros5378]

Gracias!!!!!! Subscrito

[@MrManta2012]

if the wood is 1/2 or 3/4 if you are making a pocket where another piece doesnot have to through, make the holes -1/16 deep. the exposed hole will not show. makes a clean look.

[@austin2842]

Smart. I'll have to try this. Thanks.

[@scooper72]

Why not place the t-bone and sniglet fillets on the short edge of the slot, so that they’re hidden within the assembled joint? This would require material thickness more than 2x your bit size, but should work with typical 18 mm ply and 0.25” bit.

[@Letivnebo]

Super

[@IgnoreMyChan]

Would a work around be to change the tool to a smaller one afterwards to do the details in the corners?

[@norm1124]

IgnoreMyChan Think yes, but cutting twice the same path after tool change may be trickier and more time consuming.

[@MAKE]

Or you can just do all of your cutting with a smaller bit - It's a tradeoff between cutting speeds and smaller details. In this case I went with a bigger bit to make the shape of the fillets super obvious. But I think using a .125" bit would work much nicer, without sacrificing much in the way of cutting speed.

[@darkbielz]

It would still Have a small radius in those inside corners.. Same problem would happen.

[@billmielke7395]

IgnoreMyChan depending on the cam software that would be the best solution. Gibbscam is what I am familiar with. In Gibbscam there is an option called material only, what we do in metal, which I assume you could do in wood is we use the largest possible end mill to rough out material. From there we would either drop to a .125 (1/8) endmill, or if we used a really large endmill, like .750 (3/4)+ we might go with .375 (3/8) first then .125 (1/8). Once be get to .125 we would use a .0625 (1/16) to go in and just clean up the corner. The problem is anything below .125 (1/8) is super fragile. Material only takes into account each operation in the program cutting only what's left. Also remember endmills are labeled by diameter, so a .0625 endmill will leave you a .03125 radius in the corner which is a pretty sharp corner.

[@sarawutbunjusuwan2736]

What chanels can I order your book?

[@novelanederland3902]

How do you guys deal with tollerance? :o anybody has a good video on that?

[@austin2842]

Mind blown. Time now to take over the world with my newfound superpower. Muahahaha.

[@norm1124]

What about clamping the board vertikcal instead of horizontal? This may fix several cases.

[@FreeOfFantasy]

for that you would have to flip the bord, as you would have to round all four edges. If you want thous edges sharp, use a laser or water jet for cutting.

[@jeroencardienaal5523]

does anyone know what drawing program he uses, i am looking for an easy 2D drawing program to work with and that one looks like a good one to start with.

[@jeroencardienaal5523]

thanks m8, yo da best

[@overlordgamingLTD]

That is not inkscape it is fusion 360.

[@tryingtomake9871]

All are 1st, I like your video.

[@socalboomer]

adding extra space in a joint, via fillets or rounded corners, does not mean they "fit perfectly" - fitting perfectly means fitting perfectly.

[@MAKE]

Mike Malsed you got me.

[@waterup380]

why not get a chisel or a tool for that problem

[@automaticprojects]

Great video, but those are all fugly and incredibly inelegant. I went from electronics to CNC to traditional woodworking. CNC routers are amazing, fun machines, but they are not suited for joinery.

[@shantelfullerton9865]

My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodglut.

[@sammiller5509]

?!?!?'? Why not use a chisel, if you can afford a cnc-ruter you probably can afford one of the better chisels

[@sammiller5509]

Or spent the money on an co2-laser-cutter

[@nexus01gr]

A laser cutter that can cut through a 1/2 or 3/4 birch ply in the price range of a CNC router? Now THAT sounds good! All joking aside, the chisel was my first thought but, i'm guessing, it goes against the "design parameters" of CNCed plywood furniture.

[@zHSVClubby]

Who the fuck uses inches?

[@shantayprueeissen8914]

Thousands of lifetime projects with Woodprix plans.