The Damp Wall Mystery ~ Can You Solve It?

[@alanjewell9550]

I did a training yesterday in the use of thermal imaging cameras for assessing building thermal performance. The tutor showed some images from his own house of a cool anomaly on his ceiling that turned out to be very slow leak on a pipe. At the time, there was no visible discolouration or damage. It looks like thermal imaging can be really useful in situations like these. They are getting quite cheap now & readily available, for hire/ lend from councils, energy companies etc.

[@peterdorr6190]

Damp during the cold season does display parity light bulb when from a quality thermal camera. Include when no visible sign.

[@rufus_mcdufus]

That's a great idea.

[@billdoodson4232]

I bought a thermal camera when I was Chief Engineer at a brewery, when they came down below £4K about 20 years ago. We used to use it for condition monitoring of electrical distribution and motors mainly. Then we had a leak on a flat roof, after it rained and the sun came out, we scanned under the roof and followed the cold spot from the water back to the point it had got under the felt. Simple job for ths roofer to repair a metre square patch rather than a big section of roof.

[@michaelmike5709]

The outside walls of the boiler room walls look like they had or have a moisture problem, water drains from water run off, water going under and wicking up. ,--- one side off the walls are heated the other sides of the wall is not, The garden hose in the boiler room is questionable, as well as, what is the rust spot on the floor by the garden hose ??? Hydrostatic pressure, also location of the drain , / waste line from tub and toilet from bath, most likely the drain by the back door, runs into and empties to the waste line of the home, looks 60-70 years of age the joints of the main waste line maybe rusted through. Those elbows, leading into the boiler room wall, must look down this wall, this would mean the underneath, the boiler room floor is wet , in order to reach those two inside walls, However , did I hear that beyond the bedroom walls and the other wall with the moisture is an add on an addition added on to the original part of the home, the check the transitional sectional part of the roofing and siding where old meets new, Hello across the pond, I am way older then you, and had done some big construction, in NYC, and still hold onto my NYC contractors license, occasionally I professionally inspect buildings and homes for fun , as I am qualified and licensed to do such, I do this to get out of the house and keep a little active, as my Dad thought me, he said the gadgets and materials will change as time goes on, but the fundamentals do not change. Cheers. Yes , I use dye to test septic tanks, and leach fields. Eventually, you must open up the walls , an inspection hole, as well as , maybe a pin hole leak from the radiant heat flooring connector. Seems there are maybe multiple small water infiltration problems. That outside wall, is suspicious as well, The problem is from the contracting company that did the extension.

[@thegrandmuftiofwakanda]

Those things are god tier boomshank for detecting water leaks.

[@DlStreamnet]

5:18. This lad sounds so at peace but the background sounds like someone is being mauled to death.

[@nikhoward]

This.

[@Robwakefieldcreative]

as a dad I can shed light on this, .... mum is probably attempting to cut his hair.

[@Ben_3113]

lol

[@peteryates308]

Starting a gofundme for Karim's new noise cancelling headphones.

[@alexlight4413]

😂

[@jamesgane8197]

I had a similar issue after our extension was built, the cavity wall became an inside wall. I chopped off the plaster and tried using liguid damp seal, that lasted half a year and the damp returned. problem was the cavity at the floor line was full of old debris from when the house was built (1936) I was told by an old builder that skips didn't exist then, and at the end of the day apparently the brickkies would tip over and clean thier muck boards down into the cavity, out of sight out of mind! I filled six rubble bags of snots of cement rubbish from over a ten foot length, lowering it to well below the Dpc line, now the air can circulate and I eliminated the damp, A neighbour has a similar problem but they have Urea Fomaldahide as cavity insulation horrible stuff , this has caused loads of issues for them. Good luck, hope you can sort it out.

[@jamesburtenshaw8421]

Hi Rodger, just a suggestion but I had to remedy a similar issue for a customer once where the original DPM was compromised through the plasterers applying bonding to the top of the bellow dpc brickwork at floor level. This then passed the moisture across to the wall finish. The original detail was skirting on before plaster, so the problem didn't exist until the renovation works were carried out.Hope this help and all the best.

[@johnriggs4929]

Yes - my ears pricked up when he mentioned 'refurb'... When I was in the damp proofing business, it was a constant bugbear: we'd inject the dpc (which was hit and miss, in reality) but then use a sand & cement scratch coat, incorporating a salt inhibitor and waterproofer (Sovereign Rendermix at the time) down to the level of the dpc. Then, despite our clear instructions not to go below that level, and not to use Carlite browning, often enough the plasterer would go right down to the solid floor with browning. I'm not saying that's definitely the cause here - but whip that skirting off and see where the plaster finishes. Even if it's dot and dab, if the there's been a dpc installed, the dots shouldn't be below the dpc, and the render scratch coat (assuming there is one)

[@lksf9820]

Roger.

[@joecurran]

It's going to be a major issue going forward if home owners let any of the government grant scheme professionals inside the gate to retrofit your home, most home owners in Ireland reading this Note of warning would have the old cavities and attics insulated by now, good luck with that one, cavities half filled anywhere opes were blocked off you'll probably have zero insulation because the cavity wouldn't have been properly opened to allow the insulation into those areas or the ope was blocked up using cavity blocks, lots of private scheme house builders still use 9 inch cavity blocks to build houses particularly in Dublin area so buyers beware, how any builder in the 21st century is allowed to use cavity blocks to build houses is mind blowing when they know it's not fit for purpose any tradesperson will 2nd that.Next guys in the gate, spray foam insulation between rafters, hides the dirt and that little leak or Gap that was trouble some for years and now it's gone and the house feels much warmer untill the leak shows it's ugly head once again by now the tops of the rafters have wet rot and will have to be replaced, not easy with foam stuck to everything. Next Guy to arrive is the stucco or external wall insulator's, what a transformation the house looks great and will for many years provided it's done right, ie. Proper trays used at dpm level to stop rising damp and rodents from having a field day, when the moisture gets behind the insulation and it will because they insulation has been stuck directly onto an old wall that chances are it already had moisture in it, all will be fine until the big freeze of such and such a year after that you'll be able to c where the joints in the in insulation are but at least it won't fall off because the boy's used them metal mushroom fixings, much better than those old plastic ones that keep breaking anytime you try to use them.

[@lxpollitt]

As well as the condensate discharge pipe investigation, I would be inclined to look for potential leaks in the bathroom. For example, toilet or shower feed pipes. If the underfloor heating is concrete slab then any of these could be leaking into that slab explain the far reaching signs of damp that are just starting to show on the very first wall pictured in the video. The condensate pipe causing damp that far into the house isn't impossible but it would be travelling a long way. Whereas a leak with for example the toilet cistern feed pipe is very close to where the bulk of the damage is showing (internally and externally) and could easily also be then travelling into the slab. There also looks to be discoloured or missing grout on the bathroom floor just to the right of the toilet, which might be a clue of some sort? Just a hunch, but not a confident hunch.

[@mikehealy74]

I think if the UFH was leaking, then the boiler pressure would drop (at least mine would).

[@TheOriginal_BigMac]

Karim seems like a nice guy. Hope he gets it fixed

[@ricos1497]

He's actually a serial killer. It's not obvious from the video, I'd admit.

[@santorini8423]

@@ricos1497I heard that. Does them in with cornflakes. Boom boom

[@DesperateDan3231]

I'd be looking closely at that Aco drain. Could be failing to drain the water in heavy rain, allowing it to seep under the floor and up the walls. This would also explain the bubby render outside.

[@stepbackandthink]

I’ve seen so many times where dodgy builders install a channel with no outlet. It’s there for looks.

[@dmac2573]

@@stepbackandthink exactly. Our house we just bought has one of those bluetooth ACO channels with no outlet..

[@6panel300]

I've come across aco drains that aren't capped at the end, even though there is an outlet one end the water still finds a way out of the other end. I've allay come across them where they haven't been joined properly allowing water to seap out.

[@paulhill2012]

1 The soil pipe passes through the outside wall at 8:52 that may have a leak inside the external wall. Also the patio looks newish, and the Aco drain doesn't extend the length of the wall it's just across the door opening which may lead to water resting against the external corner of the wall. Was there any damp before that was fitted?

[@jannenreuben7398]

The trick with damp problems is a) knowing enough basic physics to understand how water behaves both as a liquid AND as a vapour b) understanding how temperature affects water and c) understanding how building materials aid or impede that behaviour. Roger hits on some of the numerous potential issues here: 1) Vinyl flooring stops moisture from the floor or underneath it evapourating so it goes to the only place it can...into the base of the wall 2) Moisture in the wall base is trapped by the plastic paint and gypsum plaster. It blows the paint off as it tries to evapourate. 3) Wall base is wet so it gets cold so any water vapour in the air condenses in it even more 4) High external ground level means wall base stays close to the ground temperature which is very cold. See point 3. 5) High ground levels could also promote penetrating damp and rain splashback. See point 3. 6) External cement render prevents wall moisture evapourating. Wall stays wet and cold. 7) Problem gets worse in winter because interior air is warmer and thus carries more water vapour. Exterior is colder which means more likelihood of wall interior getting colder. 8) Wall base is worst affected because cold air sinks as it is denser than hot air. Gravity also acts to pull water downwards. The solutions are probably fairly simple: lower the exterior ground levels as much as practicable (a narrow trench will do), use breathable interior paint, make sure interior is properly ventilated, consider removing a band of external render on the lower part of the wall to allow it to breathe. Also check drains, gulleys and gutters are working properly.

[@MAGH1O1]

👍👍👍 Thank you

[@SteveAndAlexBuild]

It’s Chaos in that House 😳👍🏽🧱

[@normanboyes4983]

Roger, I find these videos quite interesting and of course ‘we’ cannot get to the bottom of it because we are not on site but opening it up on YT - opens it up to a broad church to garner ideas. The fact that he is not losing pressure from the heating system is a very positive fact. The truth is this sort of damage accumulated over time does not need a lot of water. My thoughts: (1) If the property has a water meter, this should be the first and easiest step to eliminate or otherwise. Best done with an empty house over as long a period as possible. Of course ‘barn door’ leaks will be obvious immediately but this sort of damage could be caused by a few litres a day. (2) Bung the end of the condensate pipe (boiler off) and top it up from the boiler end until the level is visible and leave for a few hours to eliminate leaks from cracks in pipes. (3) Investigate drain pipework from sink and shower. (4) Investigate soil pipework. (5) Check if that outside acco drain has a patent connection and is not just dumping into the subsoil.

[@paulappleyard5832]

We have a concrete floor with under floor heating in an extension with LVT. We had a damp patch in one corner rising up the wall. Pulled the skirting and chopped the bottom of the plasterboard off not had a problem since. This guy has a lot going on in this are a so more likely plumbing related but might be worth pulling the skirting to see if the plasterboard is touching the floor 10 minute job.

[@neiltitmus9744]

If its got a wood plate then that could still be in nthe damp zone?

[@brucepickess8097]

I had a similar problem in a bathroom with a vinyl floor covering. Two walls one internal one external had this same image. Fault - slow leak in the connection of a hidden service valve, water leaked and seeped under the vinyl covering unseen and penetrated the base of the walls.

[@markpaul1154]

Sealant on the bottom of the soil stack exit drain (9.28) , cavity bridging if rain can run down a wall, hit the soil stack outlet and track along it. Water is very good at clinging to things, I would rake it out, re-seal it with CT1 and put a sealed collar over it to deflect it away. Eliminate anything that can track inwards first.

[@davidallen2058]

Sounds like rising damp is not his only problem.

[@2loco]

😅

[@batkmanl4326]

haha

[@Michael-di5cl]

🤣😂

[@charvais]

Agreed ! maybe he is too nice and there are letting him know that...

[@ArdGeal]

Screming blue murder in the background eh?

[@Stannystansfield]

No gap between floor junction and plaster allowing moisture to wick up the wall. Use of gypsum plaster instead of renovating plaster. Looks to be some salt contamination where decoration is flaking off.

[@sergiofernandez3725]

Need to track down the hissing in the bathroom to eliminate it. Are there isolation valves on the sink, toilet and shower? Could you connect the condense to a hose and run it to the end of the garden for a few days or even into a bucket. Condense can each through some cheap plastic pipes. Can the skirting in the bedroom be removed to expose the area? Use a moisture meter on both side of the damp wall to get readings

[@stephenrobbins2931]

I've had to remedy similar problems in the past where someone has built a patio outside right up to the wall too close to the DPM. It looks to me like the same problem here, he can see there is a damp problem affecting the render which has been painted. That damp is trapped in the wall and could be going through to the inside. The plumbing all looks sound so I would start there.

[@neilsumner1929]

As daft as it sounds I once heard that adding a bottle of cheap perfume to the central heating water will show up any leaks in the system. The nose is very sensitive and any leaks you can literally smell quite easily!

[@mikehealy74]

The floor level of the bathroom looks way higher than the floor level of the boiler room. What did they infill with, and did they put a dpc under the infill or over? If it is over, the infill could be higher than the dpc in the boiler room, allowing the moisture into that wall, then creeping round it. Also he mentioned a hissing noise I think. Could try getting a cheap pressure guage and connecting it to the garden tap, pressure it up then turn off the street stopcock, watch the pressure guage for a bit and see if that is the source.

[@chester6343]

First off, is the water meter spinning with everything off..

[@Tom_Plumb_PHS]

My first thought as a plumber. Any buried pipes. Coukd get a tracer gas service done to check.

[@neil1997]

Check the toilet ballcocks aren't passing first

[@chester6343]

@@neil1997 you'd probably check that after checking the meter tbh, but makes no odds, once all verified as sound start isolating parts of the system to rule things out. It's an unvented cyl so dead easy to narrow down as all off the mains and will make the meter go.

[@Robwakefieldcreative]

nice to see Roger rocking 2 monitors and a proper mic!

[@tonypoloney8721]

A solution of dye put into the aco drain is worthwhile. Do a salt analysis on the damp wall plaster. Is wall plaster bridging the dpc and/or floor slab. Pressure and sound test all plumbing. To name a few. Good luck.

[@Driftwood-q4n]

Does he have a water meter? Check to see if there is constant usage...1st thought is feed leak as any damage is being masked by the bathroom tiling, 2nd leaks from showering area (eg, waste pipe likely embedded in floor screed or seals/poor installation), 3rd a salt test of the plaster to look for nitrates associated with rising damp if nothing found on the pipes...get a leak detection firm in👍

[@kendom33]

Good suggestion

[@Roverturbo]

Your worried about the condensate running into the drain, what about the rain water?

[@KPKENNEDY]

We had a water leak on the mains under the concrete kitchen floor. It caused a similar problem. THe insurance company investigated and said that it was rising damp from outside as the test of the wall scrapings did not show it to be tap water. THe problem started about a week before a drought was officially declared! They said that we were not covered for ingress of water from outside and it was our DPM. We got a surveyor and he said that it was a water leak inside the house as the water meter stopped ticking away when we turned the stopcock to the house off but ticked away when the stopcock was turned on and no water running.. Also for us the problem started about 3 or 4 metres from an outside wall and spread quickly over four months to 5 rooms and a cupboard. Rising damp apparently takes years to spread. THe wall deposits were brown which apparently is typical of a water pipe leak. We showed the report to the insurance company they reopened the claim and they found the leak under the floor as soon as they dug up some concrete in the kitchen. It gave them a much bigger bill of about £20,000 to fix instead of probably about £2000 because it took 4 and a half months for them to accept the leak was internal. As the wall in the boiler room is much worse I suspect that the problem is the hissing sound. The workman who came to check and confirmed the water problem was internal or not after the surveyors report and confirmed it was an internal problem had a long stick with a ear piece on the end. He swore that he could find the spot of a leak under a floor by listening for the hissing sound through this. I could be wrong and your other suspision could be correct.

[@paperboy-o1p]

Hi mate After months of tackling a similar problem regarding alleged “rising damp” & much expert opinion of having suffered a blown DPC I discovered an old short bit of water pipe that passed through an internal bathroom wall in a corner of an immersion cuboard all plastered in & over. It had a slow drip, this accumulated over time & the water built up at the base of the wall, it found a superb highway on to the glossy hard bituminise damp roof course which provided the perfect highway around the unseen base of every wall in the bungalow causing symptoms of rising damp exhibiting black dot & peeling paper etc about 2 ft up on most walls ! I found cause by accident almost Was cleaning black dot from wall & noticed a sheen when I pressed wall with a cloth Probed with a screwdriver, Which revealed pipe buried in wall dripping, Very crumbly wall so remove some of it to reveal the black bitumen providing perfect conduit for spread of water. I had more experts misdiagnose & unable to give causation than you could shake a stick at. Many thousands & months of drying out later All sorted Good luck 👍🏻 Enjoy your tips thanks

[@JM-km3cn]

Extenal paved area looks as if it would have bridged dpc

[@cybershot123]

Hi Roger there is a lot to take in on this one do not like the acu drain being lower than patio flag. cant wait for follow up

[@rufus_mcdufus]

Replacing the condensate pipe might be the easiest thing to try first, depending on the route it takes. The 110mm waste pipe from the bathroom(?) may be the problem too? There's a lot of CH pipes which could be problematic too but if the pressure's not dropping then that should rule those out.

[@malcolmstead272]

Best way to test water main is, fit pressure gauge onto a tap, turn off the supply outside, then reduce pressure to test for let by.

[@georgenissen7985]

Is it an uninsulated wall? So on the boiler side it is slightly warm and thus dry while the bedroom side is cold and thus gathering condensation?

[@emmaearnshaw3282]

Yes Roger, I'd go with what you say. But if not that, Outside, the drip line on the render coat is unusually high. Surely the damp coarse isn't that high. Does this mean that the black painted bit below the render is also render that has bridged the damp coarse. If that black paint is some sort of waterproofer then there will be no evaporation from the outside wall, Can't really see from the video. Finally the damp damage on the outside wall render is close to where the toilet joins the soil pipe. I've seen a few places where this has been the problem. Especially when an exterior render coat has been involved.

[@michaelfraser5723]

very MYSTERIOUS, WOGER

[@NikNakGB]

I think I'd be more concerned about the murder taking place in the background

[@juliestreet8688]

😂😂😂

[@nikhoward]

😂

[@gilly2guitars]

I think there was more than one.....possibly mass murder!! 😅😅😅

[@IRoN0RE]

i would say that the effected walls are part of an extension, in the video the gentleman states that dpm and dpc was used in the construction. the slabs look like they laid over the existing slabs as they are much higher than drainage. i'm gonna guess they put the dpc at to low a level, and that this problem only happened since they put down the new slabs, as they prob are now near or pass the dpc.

[@petercross8871]

Hi, I looked at the soil pipe, if you look it must have been disconnected to do the render and then refitted. there is no pipe visible going into the wall. What is visible is a small amount of staining on the black paint. Discharge from the soil pipe. I think the soil pipe is not fully inserted into the collar and there is a small leak . All the damp is to one side of and below the outlet from the toilet in the en suite into the soil pipe. . . So in true Cluedo fashion, I say the guilty party, is Mr Plasterer, the render man; with the Soil pipe in the back garden.

[@kendom33]

Good suggestion

[@2loco]

Poor fella. I would have sent them away whilst recording the video. 😅

[@burwoodbuild]

Boarding School or military academy? 🤔

[@pjgtech]

Lots of potential issues? so difficult to diagnose without actually seeing it in person? Could be high ground levels outside and french drain / Acco drain not removing water adequately. Could be the condensate pipe. Could be any of the CH or bathroom pipes. I noticed what looked like a shower hose on the floor to the rear of the WC pan, some cultures use a water bottle or shower nozzle to clean themselves after using the loo, if the shower hose is being used, is excess water going on the bathroom floor and seeping into other areas, especially if its not a proper wet room / sealed type floor? I'd also be pulling up the bedroom lino/tiles to see if there's any damp under there. Good luck with it.

[@brucelez1]

The drain probably doesn't have a stop on the high end, assuming there is a run on it and assuming it actually goes somewhere like a soak away or a drain, it may be back flowing under the wall. Also remember that water from the condensate pipe is caustic and it will eat metals like steel and copper. Suggestions if this is not the issue: Dig down the side of the wall on the outside of the building about 18 inches or more if possible and add some gravel in a line 6 inches from the wall, it will reduce the hydrostatic water pressure and add drainage to the area that is against the wall. this will reduce the water penetration, or at least move it a lot lower. When you have dug down either knock off the black band of render and tank it, then render over the tanking and re paint or you could try an injected damp proof course, (thixotropic cream or rods) and this will also help. Basically it looks to be the ACO drain and / or the high external ground level, ideally the DPC needs to be 150mm, (6") above the external ground level as a minimum. If the DPC is below the paving height, you are going to get water flowing over your damp proof course, so either add cavity trays and weep holes or dig the ground down to below the DPC layer, again ideally finished paving height should be 150mm below the DPC to be effective.

[@brianlopez8855]

Could be condensation on cold feed blue valved copper pipes in that "Boiler Room", dribbling off pipes to the floor and climbing the wall inside ?

[@bernardrevill9547]

I'd be checking out that soil stack, could be a crack in the drain, causing the damp. Also, condensation will be a big problem. If you've got an ensuite, use an enclosed shower cabin it reduces the amount of steam by trapping it in the cabin.

[@Harley-ir4er]

The outside patio looks very high, has it breached the DPC on the external walls ?

[@6panel300]

Rising damp of some sort. As you know the cause could be a number of things. The heat from the boiler pipes would be enough to keep the walls dry in there. A physical inspection would be way forward.

[@chunkymonkey55555]

Tough to say. Is it a possibility, the drainage water is getting into the wall through the door-frame there, when it rains hard? If turns out to be true a reward would be nice :) Other than that pftt, maybe the shower drainage might be leaking?

[@gti6306]

I had this issue with a leaking pipe under the screed. Need to check water meter to see if any unexplained loss.

[@Tom_Hadler]

I suspect that aco channel outlet, if there is one, is right in the corner, and then runs perpendicular straight into the soil pipe. I think an leak may be in that area. Or the condensate pipe. Might not be a big issue but the ground level is almost a level threshold at the door, so is probably bridging over the damp proof course. Groundwater would also give the same issue, but I suspect a leak is accelerating the problem. Check for leaks outside, possibly some gravel type drainage. I reckon the dpc issue won't matter so much once the leak is sorted, it'll only be groundwater knce the ground is sodden. Sometimes it's probably easier to just accept it and repaint occasionally. Maybe. Dpc is being bridged outside, maybe also with internal walls. Don't know if that resin stuff works or is worth it, but its another option. Find and fix leaks first

[@Asadkhan-pe2je]

Could be mositure from underneath the flooring which is rising. Best to remove the skirting in that section and investigate.

[@stephenwoods6139]

Check to see if the water meter is moving when all the water appliances are turned off, that will provide evidence of a leak.

[@neil1997]

Check toilets aren't 'running' first

[@bluzrokluvr]

The hissing sound indicates water escaping under mains pressure. It doesn't need to be a massive leak even a small but prolonged spray over time can give rise to the symptoms shown on the video. I'm assuming we've got solid floors with an incorporated dpm, not necessarily sealed to any dpc in the lower wall behind the skirting therefore the wall/floor joint may be a weak point allowing any excess moisture to be absorbed by the lower brick and ultimately into the more absorbent plaster. If the plaster is a lightweight Gypsum based type it'll accentuate the damp problem. In a nutshell, rising dampness per se is unlikely, my money is on a concealed mains leak which might take a bit of time, digging and patience to locate and sort. In nearly 50 years in the timber and damp remedial treatment business, I came across this scenario from time to time. Once the leak is located let the walls and sub-floor completely dry out before even contemplating prepping the plaster and redecorating.

[@disklamer]

Without a thermal camera and moisture sensor, finding water paths by elimination is an arduous process. Blotting paper still works. I’ve seen runout like this on a ground floor wall, coming all the way from the roof, inside a wall cavity, and only showing because the dpc blocked it from seeping down further. That type of pressure gauge is not precise enough to detect a pinhole leak, you might get 0.1 bar drop over weeks, but it’s enough to soak a wall. A well-equipped plumber can probably do better testing/tracing. However, junction points, gutters and outflows are notorious so definitely eliminate those first.

[@benjaminwood7198]

If you carry out a test for nitrates / chlorides, and a calcium carbide test this will help to identify the issue; the shower floor drain is another source of moisture !

[@vistron888]

Is the Aco drain sealed up properly with silicone? Plus if the fall is not good any drain water or condensate ir going to leak even more. Where the tiles end at the drainage channel looks rough. For water to be coming under the tiles via capillary.

[@vistron888]

Also how has the plumber inserted the condensate pipe into the drainage channel? Good chance via some improvised hole which isn't sealed properly. So condensate just going into the ground.

[@t-rex4211]

Old lime rendered inside and covered in multi so can’t breathe. No DPC and high ground levels. If no leaks above and vent moved I’d dig up aco and drain and check working ok and leave a stone trough against house. Check gutters and felt too and check not getting in from above before offering them crazy paving porcelain 😉

[@markkenyon8760]

It may be a camera illusion but it looked like the ground sloped towards the house, hence the drain I suppose. If that drain isn't fitted perfectly or if there is any minor blockage the chances of damp are high. Well it is the first port of call IMHO.

[@jenniferwilliams4447]

How well is the drain coping? It may be partially blocked.

[@johndgn]

Looks like boiler room acting like a sump due to ground levels and agreed, possible concealed plumbing issues, disruptive examination required.. Is that a timber floor in boiler room? Easy enough to check under there..

[@crishill6458]

Check the condensate drain pipe, its common for them to fail for some reason

[@brianlopez8855]

They will block in freezing conditions quite easily, if external. But it doesn't look that cold there.

[@crishill6458]

@@brianlopez8855 I have seen several where the white 20mm pipe has deteriorated at any bend/elbow

[@lazylad8544]

Check the soil stack it looks as though there might be an issue with the drainage. The aco drain isnt in the best place and the ground level outside is too high.

[@Google_Does_Evil_Now]

Water guys have a listening tool. Cheap. Maybe try one of those to locate the possible leak. Hissing sound, damp. Mmmm. What could it be. The drain cover looks heavily stained.

[@peterzmuda]

Maybe get someone with a thermal camera they are amazing you can usually see where the problem is

[@970357ers]

Sounds like a fortress of solitude in that house. Blimey.

[@caterthun4853]

I would also have look at that toilet soil pipe as it comes through the building. Looks as if joint hidden behind roughcast.. Is it leaking.

[@723matthew07]

House I recently bought had rising damp since built 50yrs ago. Whoever put the boards up dabbed plaster over the dpc all round the house. It was the same with render on interior walls. I knocked it all off and damp hasn't returned.

[@dennisphoenix1]

The hissing sound could be the float valve on the toilet filling up slowly , especially when it gets some grit in it . If the walls have been re plastered they might have breached the dpc, common problem.

[@shaybyrne62]

What’s the condition of the actual eco-drain? Not convinced it’s a condensation problem , it might just be a fracture/breakage in the drainage unit

[@steveclen-murphy582]

Hissing sound? Turn off water main in the street, release pressure at the kitchen tap and listen again maybe?

[@lew6073]

How long has the floor been down? They should have taken moisture readings before installation, did they dpm the floor? It’s not just vinyl 😢 it looks like expensive lvt.

[@loopwithers]

That outdoor patio area being higher than the indoor floor area adjacent to the rising damp problem is just screaming out to me as one cause. Fractured rising main and/or patio problem would be my bet.

[@scotthunter2986]

Top job!

[@markatchison9974]

I'd start with the aco drain channel, seeing as rainwater will be going into it. Start digging it out. If it's damp underneath it, that's more than likely the cause of the damp in the house.

[@jjtinkler97]

Karim needs that boiler room as a safe space... hope it gets dry soon.

[@marconeill9510]

My mother in law had a similar situation, signs of water damage etc. We could hear a wooshing sound coming from under the floor. But she said the boiler always made that noise. I lifted the floor to look and there was a water pipe which hadn’t been connected properly and was gushing water, hence the wooshing noise. It had been like that for who knows how long. The foundation of the house was like a swimming pool.

[@smallfeet4581]

Wow , on a different topic , my brother for some reason drilled a hole in lead on roof to feed his aerial through and put sealer on it , I didn't know this and after he had left I noticed water coming in my roof running down the rafters and joists and probably down to the walls and god knows where else , no idea how long it had been going on , very silly idea that could have affected a large area and big job on roof , he should have known better as he's a plumber , the slater said the sealer had come away , of course it did and no way to see as it's up on the roof next to the chimney , you simply cannot make mistakes like that ever

[@MrSirusDvirus]

Seen something like this before with underfloor piping and a pinhole in the piping and although the brickwork wasn't excessively wet the old plaster was sucking up the water and acting like a sponge 👍

[@ambydaly5713]

Outside surface should be at least 2 bricks below DPF. You can’t trust those drains. They may be overflowing in extreme weather?

[@rickystephenson518]

Bad connection to the waist outside. Possibly the four inch to pot connection under ground.

[@hn9598]

If not an external wall could be someone has brought the new plasterline down onto the damp proof course if its been re plastered later looks like new profile skirting to me. Ive seen that done loads of times customers want small skirting in older properties

[@YS-cs8yq]

Hissing noise ? Mine turned out to be a leaking pipe where a builder just twisted a pipe rather then capping the pipe off properly.

[@paulnolan1352]

Yeah, I had a similar problem. Traced it too a buried Combine Harvester Wheel slowly deflating over time.

[@paulnolan1352]

Yeah, I had a similar problem. Traced it too a buried Combine Harvester Wheel slowly deflating over time.

[@135Ops]

9 inch wall painted with bitumen at base can't breathe so will absorb any moisture leaking from the Aco drain and condensate pipe.

[@coupsdestylo]

Something is leaking, didn't see the supply enter that cupboard, if it's got a join to new below floor level that would do it. Run hand under condensate pipe to check that for leaks. Boiler room is cold cupboard so the pipe will get condensation, bathroom drains could be the problem but the door channel drain is probably the weak link they tend to just sit onto the drain where the rest will have proper connections. Really need to know what's under the patio and how it's piped up, did they leave the clay pipe? it's too easy to knock it with the digger and make a hairline crack.

[@gabrielbotbol1609]

it look like that the patio has Ben built up over the the damp cores

[@lhfloors]

Roger go have to look mate

[@londonengland7096]

Has this problem been resolved?

[@1414141x]

There was not really a lot of information given. It's obviously an older house as he said there were 9" walls. The outside tiled area was way to high, the render on the walls seemed to be going right down to the ground level - potentially bridging any damp proof course which was probably some kind of dense brick (blue bricks) or lead. There was obviously a lot of water in that area. Rising damp does occur even in areas where there is no additional water source other than rain. If the mortar has broken down and older brick can soak up water. In areas with clay sub-soil water can hang around after rain rather than soak in. Lots of potential issues here but I think the drain looks very suspect - where is it draining into ?

[@SpartanONegative]

Condensation man, it is on a brick wall it is going to keep producing condensation. Temp loss entropy hot goes to cold cold goes to hot

[@martyboywex]

No dpc, or a hole in it where the new pipes have been connected to his drain i reckon

[@David5467]

can he use a large screw driver as a stethoscope on the pipes to track down the hissing noise ? Wait till night when there is no noise around and no one is using the water.

[@paulmurray5123]

Check mains water for leak , Bet the close coupled toilet is to blame for the render coming away its right by the soil pipe

[@rvp589]

The drain... is it plastic going into clay could be a cracked drain pipe or bad connection. Doubt it UFH otherwise would be losing pressure... my guess external

[@richardharvey1732]

Hi Rodger, good effort!, just as we have come to expect you do the best you can with what you are given. Watching carefully the video from the start I was able to make some observations, several things come to my attention, one that the problem is in the vicinity of na bathroom, another was the visible modern sealed window, these facts combined with the vapour proof vinyl floor all indicate high levels of water vapour in that part of the building. At the same time the external footage does suggest that external moisture could be causing trouble. The underlying physics does include the relationship between heat and humidity, that where internal heat escapes through external evaporation the consequent creation of cold spots inside with high humidity can lead to internal condensation, this when observed will look very much as if water from outside is penetrating when in fact it is the heat transfer that is the real problem!. In those circumstances the 'cure' is to ensure that the external surfaces do not stay wet and thus cause the heat loss!. At the same time improved internal air circulation will do no harm. All of this only really applies as and when absolutely no internal causal issues can be found, only when it is certain that no plumbing is leaking anywhere. As you rightly say one must not ever jump to hasty conclusions! it always takes considerable time to make all the necessary observations and tests and even longer to think through all of it to get on the right track!. All the time the desire to fix the problem makes us take too many short-cuts!. Cheers, Richard.

[@nofam]

There's actually no issue with the plumbing - Karim's just hiding in the boiler room to escape family life. . .

[@bubs1751]

Turn the mains off on the pavement and see if the hissing stops.

[@juliestreet8688]

Turn off outside stopcock see if hissing stops. Also acid condensate will EAT through metal drain in under 6 months

[@Tandy683]

Might be a crack in the drain pipe itself?.. remove drain grill worth having a butchers

[@michaelsunderland6569]

Ffs the boiler room maybe behind the pipes might be a cold wall in the winter therefore will produce quite a bit of condensation

[@davidfletcher6028]

It looks like the pvc door is fitted the wrong way round, drainage holes would be on the inside

[@TinkerBod]

Damp mystery or murder mystery?

[@robgood719]

Surely that would cause condensation

[@chrisj3532]

Don’t worry about. We all die one day and then you really won’t be bothered by it. Clad it over. Spend the money on a great experience. Good luck 👍

[@springy2670]

All these comments, opinions, suggestions, possibilities of cause, options for people to check And the most common thing us 'damp proofers' get asked is "is it a gree survey and report" 😂😂😂 If only people knew how hard it can be to accurately identify the source of the "rising damp" and all for free 😂😂😂