SKODA FABIA 1.9 PD TDI GEARBOX OIL Check Change Mk1 00-07

In this video I show you the location and how I removed/refit the GearBox Oil on a Skoda Fabia 1.9 PD MK1 (99-07) which is similar to other VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda models
1.5Ltr approx
75W 90
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The content of this video is for information and entertainment value only and it's creator makes no claims, promise or guarantees of it's accuracy, coverage, instruction or adequacy of the procedures contained therein.
HatBoyHarvey assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
HatBoyHarvey recommends correct safety practices when working on motor vehicles, vehicle lifting tools, axle stands, hand tools, electrical equipment, chemical, products and consumable parts, lubricants or any other tools, equipment, chemical product and consumable parts, lubricants seen or implied in this video.
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[@ikerdiez9213]

IMPORTANT TIP: always start opening the inspection plug. Because if it's too hard and you cannot open it nothing happens. But imagine that you start by the draining plug, you drain all the oil and you cannot open the inspection or refilling plug. You will be in an insane situation. Regards

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Absolutely great thinking and advice :-)

[@kimokimo5618]

on peux remplire avec le capteur de recule 😂

[@alanmills1228]

My thoughts exactly

[@ruimvp]

Another well taught lesson. Thank you. My Fabia is the 1.4 petrol last version from 2003. It has no drain plug. They really meant for life. But you can use a pump or a syringe to extract the oil. When you need to change that rusty lower arm be aware that you will need a long bar for leverage in the arm back. The car needs to be high. I tried at home with normal jacks and could not do it. I take it to the shop. Long life to Harvey.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Thank you Rui, just think how difficult it would if humans didn't have a drain plug! I noticed the lower arm when doing this video, looks in poor state to me, will have a closer inspection later this week :-)

[@robiszi7932]

Great video. I did the replacement in Ibiza 1.4 86HP BXW type 6L1 at the beginning of 2019. I used SWAG (Febi) SAE 75W API GL-4 specification and I am satisfied. Maybe I should have done this much earlier, but all services literally reject you from this. As a rule, the oil in manual gearboxes of passenger vehicles should be changed at about max 200,000km or 8 years of use. For a small amount of money, as much as 2 liters of gearbox oil costs, this is not an expense. In my opinion, SAE 75W API GL4 is an excellent choice, this viscosity grade has a wider selection and can be used in Vw vehicles starting with the 1.2 engine and up to the 2.0 tsi. This includes 1.9pd tdi engines 101 Hp and 131, but also 2.0tdi. Always make sure that the specification is API GL-4, for a manual transmission, and not API GL-4/5 or API GL5, because such oils are loaded with too many EP additives, which can often do more harm than good. So, as far as I have checked, SAE 75W and SAE 75W-80 can be used, but API GL-4. I don't know what viscosity grade and specs you used, but once again, the video is excellent.Regards

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Many thanks for your enlightened comments, glad you liked the video and will look into that oil :-)

[@nicholasroberts6954]

Good lad. High quality video as usual. As we all know "Filled-for-life" is of course another VW marketing con (Like emissions ?) aimed at the Fleet market (???). Gearbox on my 2003 Skoda 1.4 16v saloon (72,000 miles ) was re-built by an indy 10,000 miles and 5 years ago - It failed because of a persistent oil leak on the input shaft seal which the main dealer wouldn't address in any way, including periodically topping up the box, despite me asking them to do so. And when finally it started making the ominous noises, the main dealer wanted to replace with a new box, at horrendous cost, so I went to and indy and had it rebuilt for £1000 less. Since then I had all servicing done by the indy. Recently had to go back to the main dealer for annual servicing as it appeared the indy had packed up business. At the annual service three weeks ago. i asked them to have a look at the gearbox oil level. They refused. I presume they are terrified of loosing their Skoda franchise . Everybody knows the service interval for gear box oil, 4 years or 48,000 miles whichever comes sooner. And the reason for this iinterval is that, firstly, the oil will become saturated with dirt and wear particles and that after 4 -6 years, even fresh oil, in an opened top-up oil bottle, will have begun to break down. And the oils of today are hyper blended, sometimes with different stocks and have loads of additives included so I would suggest the potential for oil breakdown is greater than it was years ago when the 4 year practce was standard. But VW, Skoda and others persist with this "Sealed-for-life" horses' potatoes. What they really mean is "After the 3 year warranty has expired and the first owner has sold-on, we don't give a sheskebabh about Skoda owners". Whilst I'm at it, I'll decry some of the other current dealer pratices. Like telling customers new parts should be fitted when repairs can be made - I' have this recently with a seized nipple on a rear brake caliper. Must be pretty demoralising for the fully trained mechanics to be constantly acting as fitters only and actively discouraged frompractising their full range of skills. You go to these dealerships, and they have scores of new and used cars sitting on the forecourt gathering dirt and pigeon droppings, because no body can, at the moment, afford to buy them because of the general economic strictures, and yet they're not prepared to flex with the circumstances and substitute a bit of repair business, in the short-term, even though its less profitable. If this philosophy emanates from Milton Keynes, it will have the effect of preserving the jobs of the top-line marketeers in the HQ and killing the dealerships. My other issue at the moment is engine oil. Main dealer is currently filling with 0w - 30. When I pointed out that the indy previously had been using 5 or 10w-40 Quantum Synta, the mechanic said 0w-30 was the recommended oil. 5 years earlier the same main dealer had been filling with a PD 5w-40 (Presume petrol/Diesell dual purpose) and 10 years before that had been using Castrol GTX 20W-50. When you ask Skoda customer services for advice of oil viscosity range/oil standard to use they write back and say follow the advice in your car handbook. Because of the age of the car, the handbook advises using oil meeting VW500.00 , 500.01, and 502. Yet, at least the first two of these standards are no longer extant and you won't find them listed in the description on the back of bottles/cans in the shops. The range of viscosity engine oils that bave been used in my car can't all be the right one to use. Yet, no definitive official advice seems to be avaialble from our brave boys at Milton Keynes. The Haynes manual in my possession (2006) states "Multi-grade engine oil. 5w-40 to 20w/50 API SG/CD" - well SG isn't on the current list of American Petroleum Institute's extant standards. And whilst individual engine oil distributors and manufacturers claim that the most proflic of the petrol engine VW oil standards, VW504.O0 supersedes all previous standards, I am unable to find official advice from VW or Skoda to that effect. Is such advice on Erwin ? Again, whilst using thinner oil such as 0w-30 may yield extra fuel economy (Estimated at 3%) thats not much good if its allowing your engine to wear out 10% faster and blow-by and seal losses increase requiring intra service interval top-ups. ! For heavens sake, the 0w part of 0w -30 means that the oil keeps flowing normall -ish at MINUS 39 C. Please tell me what part of the UK ever experienced -39c air temperature ? Even 5w-40 flows normalish down to MINUS 25c. I think this years lowest UK Winter temperature was -16 C in some Scottish glen and that was for one night only. 0w-30 is sewing machine oil. How can it possibly properly protect an engine that experinces the stresses that the normal ICE engine experiences - despite observations to the contrary, VW engines are not Sewing machines. Please tell me this thinner oil jibe isn't another Government promoted falsehood to make the Carbon Dioxide emissions look good ! In the absence of any definitive advice from VW and faced with the main dealer inspired switch to 0w-30 and the imperative not mix viscousities, and being cogniscent of Skoda Customer Services less than comprehensive advice , i've selected Mannol Legend fully synthetic 0w-40 as my between service top-up bottle. The bottle states shelf life 5 years, API SN/CH-4, ACEA A3/B3/B4, VW502/503.01/505.00 and the half-used, 6 year old top-up bottle of Castrol Edge 5w-40 (502.00/505.00/505.01, ACEA C3, API SN/CF) goes binwards at the recycling depot. Am I "Over-thinking" this particular issue ? Or can you put virtually anything into an engine nowadays, without ill-effect, as the lack of definitive manufacturer advice would have us believe ? Welcome comments on any of the above. Addendum Has any one noticed the extra hot summer weather baving an adverse effect in the life of windscreen wipers ? I've got a set lf nearly new bosch rubbers, with no appreciable wear or damage, in a clean state and with the sweep start point correctly set, which are screeching like hell even with perfectly clean screen. It looks to me as if the "Set" of the blade has changed. Is it possible to install the blades upside down ? How could you tell😂

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Thank you for your interesting thoughts. Exchanging whole older parts for new ones irrespective of whether the part can be repaired for little cost is a typical one. There are a number of reasons for this. Firstly liability, they don't want put themselves inti a position where a claim could be made against them on at the very least safety grounds, but could be much wider ranging. Responsibility, they have to demonstrate they care about customers vehicles in terms of safety, security, their business name and reputation. Insurance, to comply with their policies. Sadly this doesn't fit with customers views to save expense or the planet. I prefer the later. The 0W 30 oil is a thin oil stable at very low temperatures, but importantly also stable at the 30 temp range (35°) so is ok to use when 5W 30 spec is stated, but not if 40 temp range is specified. There is some slight advantages with using the thinner 0W oil in fuel economy, around 1-2%. Yes there is a lot of over-thinking, but it is not just you, design engineers design oils for specific engines and improvments and stretching the manufacturers ability to refine these new oils help design better engines. That is the practice, but the end user picks up the cost for these improvments until costs reduce with wider use. I sympathize with you if a garage is putting this newer more expensive oil in your car without the choice of using the older specified one, if they do that they should tell you first and it is not true the older oils are being phased out and unavailable. Go further afield to find a garage, dealer or independent that gives better service. Or you could do the oil servicing and repairs your compenant with yourself for an easier life. Stay safe :-)

[@ayubsalim]

Hilarious...... good to see the cat come help. God bless you for these Amazing Helpful Videos. Im becoming enlightened in my old age.... but Sir these videos are so so well thought out. You have a beautiful mind God blessed you with.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

You are so welcome my friend, thank you :-)

[@VintageLynx]

Perfect. Thanks for this, another video with perfect timing.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Perfect!

[@seyhanmoustapha5675]

Thanks again for the helping video, I am waiting everymonth for a new video and trying again on my own car, it like you doing new modifications to your car, so relaxing.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Greatly appreciated, glad you like the videos:-)

[@adinko7]

Some gearboxes on the fabia don't have a drain plug from the manufacturing date of 10/1/2001 I think. I have an FNK transmission and my fabia is manufactured in 2001 so I don't know if I have a drain plug.

[@martincox8250]

Thank you Harvey. Very informative and amusing. I must invest in some of those pink Crocs. 😊

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Thanks, pinks the way to go these days:-)

[@okcyurwin]

1.9tdi PD bkc 2005.5. This engine and others have two drain points and Alsop need filling through the reverse sensor whole located under the bonnet. Be aware before starting. A shortage job turned into a daycare longest Google search 😮

[@ALXABABYCASHMERE]

Another good one Harvey! Thank you very much!

[@HatBoyHarvey]

My pleasure, glad you liked it :-)

[@sergrey260]

Друг,я смотрю ,я учусь,ты лучший,дай Бог тебе здоровья.твой подписчик.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Большое спасибо за вашу доброту. только рад помочь :-)

[@carlosm8761]

Fantastic!! Great job!

[@emincaneser2935]

Very clear.Awesome🎉

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Thanks, hope you found it useful :-)

[@careyautorepairs]

Cool video brother. Will post this to our Facebook page right now.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Awesome thank you :-)

[@seyhanmoustapha5675]

Question: Can you feel/see any differences between changing the gears after the new oil.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

As I say in the video the gears can be a little stiffer for a while, but after some time they free up and get better day by day. You can rest in the knowledge the gears are being looked after.

[@awhapshott]

Thank you for this! Looks easy…. Famous last words. At 253k mine probably needs a change as it’s never been done.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

I agree, that is what I would do and did :-)

[@awhapshott]

@@HatBoyHarvey I had to change the engine already (after it drank the turbo! ☹️) and now the only original moving parts left are steering rack and gearbox, and frankly I’ve been scared to ever touch the box but now have some confidence. 🤙🏻 Just hope those plugs come out! 🛠

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Best of luck :-)

[@waynreevepillay5993]

Great video. I have a question. My 1st gear gets a little sticky to release and 2 becomes a little crunchy when the car is cold. Doing almost 200k (mileage) Once car is warmed up no issues. Do you have any experience on this?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Yes they do that when cold. It takes longer for the gearbox oil to warm up than engine oil. You could try changing it out. New oil will initially make it worse then settle down and most often fixes the issue, if not there a number of additives to help lubricate better, but can't recommend any as I've no experience with using them :-)

[@adrianstacey5484]

Morning Harvey, been looking forward to this one as I’m looking at doing mine in the Vrs, even better no need to jack car up 👌🏻 “sealed for life” I can only presume they are thinking 100k miles……

[@HatBoyHarvey]

If you can get the underway off without jacking it up a bit ok, but I always find it easier just to lift up one side first. Luckily mine was off in the first place. I thought life was 25 yrs or less for good behaviour or may that was something uncle Bob said! :-)

[@Doker88]

Thanks for making this content. I have a 1.4 MPI having around 170.000 on the clock. At what point should I consider replacing the gearbox oil? Also, what torque spec is used for these bolts? Thanks!

[@aboswelm]

Hi, thank you.. in my place there is a sensor, there is no screw... there is only a drain screw and in the other place there is a two-wire wire

[@HatBoyHarvey]

post a pic or video on your channel if you can :-)

[@miguelaramburuugarriza231]

Thank you.

[@emveeie1391]

Hey Mr.Harvey, this might be a bit off topic...my gear pedal grabs really high so I asked my garage if they could adjust it, they said it's hydraulic, can't adjust the pedal and they need to do all kinds of stuff with the gearbox. Since I'm no mechanic can you advise me what the garage is on about. To me it seems a bit strange to change gearbox just 'cause the gear pedal is high. Tia.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

They mean that the pedal indicates that the clutch, which is accessed taking the gearbox off, needs to be looked at/replaced

[@emveeie1391]

@@HatBoyHarvey now that's what I mean by a straight up answer, thank you Mr. Harvey. I love my yellow '04 Fabia and just don't want to get rid of it. You're the greatest 💪

[@danieldaniel-sy4pr]

A good one, 💪

[@tripsingh3642]

For PD engines is this the right grade you have used 75w90 I thought it was 75w how are you finding the gear changes all the people I know they have have a harder time shifting. Is yours a 6 speed or 5 gearbox setup

[@HatBoyHarvey]

They do often suffer from this in winter months. The oil type temperature range is correct. You can change it to one that works better in colder climates. Often just changing out the oil will conversely cause stiff gear selection for a while. I may just try a different spec oil, just to see how it performs in UK weather.

[@tripsingh3642]

@HatBoyHarvey Thanks for the reply so you are saying the grade of oil you have used is causing harder shifting in the colder months Is this correct ? If so try a 75w this is what I mostly know from the people who have a VW gearbox the one I have been recommended is the Fuchs 75w which I beleve replaced G052171A2 but this part number has been discontinued and the formulation is changed for the newer cars VW don't the grade not even on the system bur I'm sure they are factory filled with Fuchs

[@edwardwilcock8145]

hi mate, i have some trouble getting into gear 5 a lot of the time on a 1.4 tdi mk1. Sometime when i try to go into gear 5 the revs shoot way up and stay quite high. The car still pulls the same but you can hear the difference in revs. Any idea why?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

First reset the gear linkages. If you have no problem with the other gears, the clutch seems OK. It's not an automatic, is it? Revs could be the throttle pedal getting stuck or throttle body getting stuck or spring broke.

[@aboswelm]

How many liters go in there?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

About 1.5ltr :-)

[@HatBoyHarvey]

@@aboswelm have a look @ : kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIuQf4CjnLhqnNk

[@aboswelm]

@@HatBoyHarvey Thank you very much, you helped me a lot

[@vikassharma-pq3ro]

Hi ,What oil you use please?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

I use Mannol VW 501.01 5w40 fixed interval, or the 505.01 updated version. Other oils are for engines with a DPF fitted which the Mk1 didn't have. Mk2 fabias use a different spec oil where engines included a DPF, VW 504, VW 507 and others. there in lies the confusion. If your in a particularly cold environment then you can use 5W 30 Look up your particular car's model and year or by reg for the exact oil spec needed Hope this helps :-)

[@vikassharma-pq3ro]

Thanks for the reply I watch your videos and have same car. I ment what oil should I use for the gearbox service. It is same as engine oil ? Thanks in advance

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Oh sorry, my mistake, haven't I put it in the comments below the video, if not Then I will and NO not the same as engine oil for the gearbox ;-)

[@vikassharma-pq3ro]

Would it be ok to change oil @ 125000 miles please? never changed before.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

@@vikassharma-pq3ro Sure it is.

[@yt240robert]

hello: at what mileage do you change oil ?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

There isn't any official info on that from Skoda as they say the gearbox oil is filled for life. I would say IMHO 120 000 - 160 000 Kms

[@1.9tdilove71]

Gear oil spec plz

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Woops, one minute

[@nolimit4137]

👍🇷🇴

[@MikeyCall-uu6sm]

This method will not fully drain the box. Good for a novice to dilute old liquid with fresh and make sure level is correct but the bung next to the vw logo needs removing(but not before locking the mechanism from above. This will fully drain it.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Locking the mechanism? Why will that make any difference?

[@jpgpearson]

dont do what he has done , never take off the bottom plug before you know the top plug is undone as they can be difficult to tdo.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Watch the vídeo @ 2:28 I clearly show taking off the filler plug first!