Sleeve Fitting: Cap Ease vs. Bicep Ease

[@susanpottage6955]

Thank you for sharing this method. I have a small frame, but large upper arms that often go with a full bust (E cup), swayback and very curvy hips . Getting a fitted shirt made with a woven fabric has always been a challenge for my curvy figure. Having a sleeve that fits the bicep area and hangs without wrinkles was the last piece in my fitting puzzle. I have used various methods over the years, but the method you show worked very well for me, and resulted in a smooth sleeve cap, plenty of ease, and a sleeve that hangs well without draglines. I never would have thought to raise the seamline and have never seen this method before in all my fitting books, only slash and spread (always resulted in drag lines) or adding to the side seams (too much to ease in to the armscye.). Thank you again, I am very happy with sleeves.

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so happy to hear this helped you! I had never seen the adjustment where I filled in the "wings" of the sleeve either. It was my friend Eric who turned me on to it when I couldn't move my arms! He was a senior technical designer for Gap. I've learned so much from him!

[@adrividrio]

This is so useful. Seeing how you do it step by step on the pattern is exactly like being in class. Thank you so much

[@JSternDesigns]

My pleasure... I'm happy to hear this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@kimhandy1861]

Great tutorial! Thanks for your amazing knowledge with us!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank pleasure... Thank you for fitting along with me

[@victoriahannah1633]

Superb information. Probably my bad but I thought I clicked on everything to get the news letter but apparently I must not have. I will try again tomorrow.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much! ... sorry about the trouble getting to my newsletter list. Here's the link: bit.ly/3LAchsY

[@trufflesmom1]

Another great tip and easy to boot!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you!...and thank you for fitting along with me

[@GrandmaJoy1]

Another great video! Thank you, Jen. Your explanations are clear and easy to understand.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much... and thank you for fitting along with me

[@Escape10mom]

Great info as usual!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much... and thank you for fitting along with me :)

[@khulood.0]

This is so useful. Thank you so much.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

[@loisvanackern9222]

Very interesting video Jen, TFS your pattern work knowledge. If you have time, I was wondering if you would address in a video, how you would handle using a knit and then a woven, using one's tried and true sleeve and armscye, to adapt to other patterns in one's collection. This may or may not include changing some design details.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Thank you. You can use these fit adjustments for stretch and woven patterns. Using a TNT sleeve and armscye to adapt other patterns is similar to trying to use a TNT crotch curve to adapt other pants patterns. The angle of the shoulder edges differ pattern to pattern, so that would need to be considered in addition to the armhole (similarly to the inseams being different). I'm going to play with this a little bit, stay tuned! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@khuloodmustafa]

Thank you.

[@JSternDesigns]

My Pleasure... Thanks for watching

[@Susan-x3s3z]

Hi Jenn, good to see you. If you want to increase the bicep on a two piece sleeve, how would you do that. Thank you so much for this video, it has been very helpful.

[@JSternDesigns]

I haven't had a ton of experience with a two piece sleeve... But my inclination would be to do it the way I'm showing here... Except you would adjust the back sleeve and front sleeve separately.... I'll put it on my list to play with! Sorry I don't have a perfect answer at the moment! Thanks for watching

[@lfuentes4098]

You’d probably need to turn it into a one piece first then make the adjustments and then cut into two piece again.😊

[@janicek6399]

Very informative, thank you.

[@JSternDesigns]

My pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me

[@snugbumswallace7218]

Thanks for this. What is the best method to reduce 3" of cap ease. I'm a newbie and doing my first sleeve

[@JSternDesigns]

My pleasure... 3" is a lot to remove from the cap. Can I ask if you made any adjustments to the pattern pieces that would make the armholes measurements shorter? If you didn't make any adjustments, I'm wondering if the pattern you're working with is drafted properly... Most non-stretch shirt patterns have an inch or maybe a little more than that of ease. Let me know about that! Thanks

[@kimberlyolberg4081]

Do you have a way that I can send you photos to get an idea of what needs to be adjusted on a mock up shirt I’ve made?

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Yes, you can email me via [e-mail]... I'll take a look! Thanks for watching

[@dianneunderwood8456]

This is so very helpful. Am drafting a jacket (outerwear) pattern for woven fabric and allowing about 5" of ease in the body. The armholes measure just over 19" (front & back added together). I drafted a regular sleeve using a cap height of about 1/3 of the armhole measurement (around 6.25"). I have around 1/2 " of ease in the cap which is ok since what I want is a sleeve that is not as fitted and will offer more room to move my arms up and about without the sides of the coat riding up too much. I thought I could accomplish this by decreasing the sleeve cap height and widening the bicep to accommodate. My normal bicep is 13" (11" plus 2" ease) and thought it wouldn't hurt to have up to 2 more inches of ease there since it is outerwear. After seeing your method to pivot the cap, I believe this will be very workable. Do I need to add or remove more ease to the cap? Just want to be sure this is what I need to do and my thanks for delving into this in such detail - your videos are great!

[@JSternDesigns]

I realized that I threw a lot of sleeve/ease/cap/bicep info at you without telling you the order in which to check the sleeve cap/armhole. Here's a tutorial that explains the order of adjustments. This may help you. As far as cap height, I like to compare the height of the cap to your body measurement (Tip of shoulder to bicep). kzbin.info/www/bejne/hGXFoWqYgNNofbs Thanks for watching

[@ivetakubernatova3966]

Hello, it was very good as usual ! I have one question - the sleeve cup is lower now and I think it is too short for the armhole. There can occure drag lines on the cap. Have you any tip for fitting ? Should I adjust the armholes on bodice (front and bag) ? Or should I wait for the next video ?Thank you very much. Iveta

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you! If you adjust the pattern for the bicep ease first. Then check the cap height. If you need to add to the height, do that next. Then walk the sleeve cap into the armhole to check the total ease. If you need to reduce the ease, do that last :) I have found for some shapes, a larger bicep also needs a cap that's not quite as high. Thank you for fitting along with me

[@ivetakubernatova3966]

@@JSternDesigns Thank you very much! You have the best videos ever!! Best regards from Prague, Czech Republic, Europe. Iveta

[@elisewilliams8681]

So once you've done that, do you need to then raise the cap? The cap height has become so short .

[@JSternDesigns]

This method does lower the cap... Interestingly, it's common for shapes that need more ease in the bicep also need less height. Here's another way to do it (that doesn't affect the height of the cap) kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKPdfamqjLhnoLc Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me

[@elisewilliams8681]

@@JSternDesigns Hmm I'll have to try this out. It still looks to me like the cap height changes. I'll play around with my pattern pieces. Thanks for doing all your fitting videos. I've learned so much from so many of them.

[@carolhammond9624]

❤❤❤

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks for watching!

[@sujansingh8539]

how to calculate bicep?

[@JSternDesigns]

Compare your bicep measurement with the bicep line on the pattern piece (not including the seam allowances). Depending on the style of the shirt you might need to adjust the ease. Knit tops can have negative ease (meaning the pattern bicep line measures less than your body measurement)... Or it may be equal or a little bigger. On non-stretch woven tops you should have an inch or two of more of ease. et me know if this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me