Sleipner Side-Power 7Kw 24V DC Thruster motor teardown

I think its 6-7Kw in capacity (going off adverts for the stern thruster unit) and looks completely salvageable!.

[@TheAmmoniacal]

As a Norwegian myself it's nice to see something from here end up in Australia. Even if it's just a side thruster motor! From what I can tell this is an SE120 Tunnel thruster, 6.4 kW (used to make boats rotate). Still sold: sleipner.no/produkt/19026/se120-tunnel-thruster-24v/ ($4700 AUD). The manual is just below the picture to the right, it's in English and has the wiring diagrams. There are a couple of other models that look similar, just different power output, so it could be another. (There's an SE130 at 6.5 kW) I guess you would have to match the dimensions if you want to find the exact model.

[@TheFlacker99]

WOW the workshop looks so clean!

[@NOBOX7]

bro your autopsy videos rule , defiantly my favorite thing about your channel

[@SamSitar]

you are very thorough. water is cleaner than oil. good to see progress on Ed Systems 2.0.

[@SpaceMountainLarry]

Great Video, Ed! Love your vids

[@123CJvideos]

im glad you have so many videos ed, because in the past week ive watched 200+ of them lol

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

That will make a great future project Ed !!

[@mrclucker1969]

That will a serious motor once you get it going. Loads of amps with loads of torque!

[@RODALCO2007]

Motors with permanent magnets and a brushed armature need only the polarity changed to change the rotation. Series motors with field and armature windings need either the field or the armature windings changed to change the direction of rotation.

[@RODALCO2007]

Great autopsy video. Awesome find.

[@PhonePhreak3z]

Oo would love more content like this and repair/educational content, k understand your busy and your ISP is shady be t just a suggestion!

[@HDXFH]

nice bit of kit

[@zx8401ztv]

Ooow thats a beast Ed :D, it does look like the torpedo style starter motors for buses, they are huge, almost on steroids lol. The commutators look really good considering what happened to it, i wonder if something like dropping the brushbox end in a bucket of parafin would make the carbon brushes pop out?, perhaps lol.

[@HDXFH]

she'll come up well!! similar motor to a Snorkel EWP Motor!!

[@OlegKostoglatov]

I did a rough conversion, 6 kw is equal to about 8 hp, if you use that to power a cart or something you might need about 2 hp worth to move it. Remember that in moving a boat around these things would be loaded down much more, so I doubt whether overheating will be an issue even if it were run for longer periods.

[@SpringDivers]

I'd like to see the boat that came off of. Thanks for the video.

[@xa-xii4865]

Imagine the current draw when reversing direction at full speed!!!

[@tiitsaul9036]

good find

[@ipullstuffapart]

I would suggest it had been mounted down in the bilge with the boat rolling around with some salt water in there splashing it occasionally causing the rust. Either that or just indirect by the high humidity environment full of salt water near it.

[@tommee10533]

ED I know the DC motors that I work with at my job the direction is reversed by switching the field leads. But the motors I work with are 33kw and up. Another thing you should remember that the field voltage is usually around 3 or 400 volts.Not sure this true in this case though.NICE FIND though!! Cheers...Tom

[@hidden7173]

I guess we have here a candidate for next-Gen Flamespin if it can go fast enough.

[@MrMacman98]

Nice motor! Built very similar to my powamac gennie! How many RPM is it?

[@smallenginedude71]

this is what Rinoa Super-Genius needs for his DIY electric lawn tractor :D

[@RinoaL]

yeah but i think the 1kw motor i have on it now is ok, it will make me build a motor driver witch will be like a stepping stone to my electric car.

[@smallenginedude71]

Rinoa Super-Genius sounds good. a homemade electric car would be awesome to see. perhaps a 100kW motor :D

[@RinoaL]

smallenginedude71 15kw would be all it would need.

[@FrontSideBus]

I bet that pulls a few amps!

[@PaulL42654]

Send it to photon!

[@nicholassmerk]

I figured the brushes were stuck when I saw the picture on Google+ earlier today.

[@jeffreytodd6256]

Hi my name is Jeff. I'm in the process of taking one of these motors apart. How do you take the fan off? I got the bolt and retainer off. Is it just compressed on? Any special puller needed? Thanks for your help.

[@pugscratchers567]

can you remove the motor when the boat is still in the water? Thanks

[@dannybellamy]

aussie50 do you have an idea what speed controller would match a motor of this kind? I have a similar motor and want to put it in a buggy? mine is rated at 280A max, 12v 2.2kw? any help would be appreciated.

[@Rustbelt_Research]

G'day Folks!

[@Metalcastr]

Almost 300 amps damn

[@cocusar]

HeyEd, nice teardown. I'll like to ask why such motors have so small "run time"? It's because they're connected in "series configuration" (a lot of torque)? What would happen if you actually configure the windings as "derivation" (parallel) which gives small torque on start up, but bigger one at nominal speed. Greets.

[@superdau]

Series or parallel configuration does not matter for the runtime. It's just that the windings get hot because of their resistance with the power you put into the motor. Run it too long and the enamel on the wire will melt and the windings short circuit. It's just designed that way, because that were the requirements of the application.

[@cocusar]

Yes I do know that. But connecting it as parallel you will get less power due to the less amperage flowing through that winding. That means less power output and less warming of windings. Except of course, that even in parallel configuration, the current is really big. Thanks for your reply.

[@jrevillug]

Santiago Hormazabal Afraid it doesn't work like that. You'd be changing the terminal voltage and current, true, but the get the same magnetic flux in the iron - and hance the same torque output - the current flowing in each strand of copper will be exactly the same so the heating effect will be exactly the same. They have such a short run time due to their design parameters - they're only used intermittantly, and need to be compact for the power required. So it makes sense to design a motor with excellent torque properties at the expense of poor thermal performance, and bank on the low duty cycle as a way of keeping the windings cool. Automotive starter motors are similar in concept - running them fully loaded constantly will cause them to melt, but they don't heat up enough to cause damage in the 5-10-15 seconds of cranking required to start the engine.

[@cocusar]

Oh thats true! I forgot that the flux on the rotor will remain the same! Thanks!

[@zaprodk]

Ed, i would recommend you to look at the MOBIUS camera for Time lapse. I own two of them, where one sits permanently in the car as a dashcam, and the other is used for various fun stuff. It's very cheap, but the support/firmware upgrade path for it is amazing. There is an amazing support thread for it at rcgroups.com. You can get an unofficial underwater-housing for it too.

[@twocvbloke]

Shame it can't go into a full size car as an electric conversion project, probably would blow up just pulling away... :P

[@iamtheomega]

we have salt mines in Utah outside Salt Lake City since the 1800s...Australia has Lake Deborah: www.lakedeborah.com/ We have a Boeing surplus outlet here, where I got most of my composite remnants also, but their prices weren't real great...

[@ExStaticBass]

If you really want to do it up proper, you should consider high capacity lithium ion batteries for cars. They aren't horribly spendy considering what their capable of.

[@fredwalton2600]

try metal rescue save heaps of work gdsf