Slice Engineering Copperhead Guide - 3D printing up to 450 degrees

[@philchia4764]

Make sure you put the PEEK in a SUPER drybox! 20% or less it is super hygroscopic. Was doing ventilator prototype parts in PEEK until we've had a failure. Next project is ECMO. Material shrinkage is wonderfully predictable with the DuPont materials.

[@markthompson5983]

Damn I can't get mine lower than 25%

[@heinzhaupthaar5590]

@@markthompson5983 Just use an inert gas, it's way easier and rather cheap.

[@prongATO]

I thought it looked it was boiling off some steam on the manual extrusion test.

[@rajkumarukkuturi7115]

Hi, Based on my experience PEEK and Ultem stick very good on >glass applied with glue stick or another best option is to invest in a carbon fibre tile as build plate. >Keep the bed temperature to 120C and if available chamber temp to 90C. ( you can still print peek without build chamber only upto 50mm height) >Keep the nozzle temperature to 440C for better layer adhesion. >Auto bed leveling don't work when printing at high temperatures. >always print with .6mm or above nozzle for best results. >First layer height always set to .35mm or above.

[@goddamnmaddog2024]

"the damage wasn't that bad, because it looked like a snowflake" Wow! You, Sir, are the person with the best coping mechanisms for stress and disappointment I know!

[@TeachingTech]

Since I picked an already damaged bed I didn't mind. If it was my normal bed, that would have been a different story.

[@Mobile_Dom]

thats a lot of copium right there

[@ameliabuns4058]

I wish PEEK was cheaper that little purge probably cost you 8$ :D this is like the caviar/truffle of 3d printing.

[@henry67278]

It should get cheaper as 3d printers become more common and ht 3d printers also become more common

[@KiR_3d]

It's for the commercial prints usually. So the clients pays for this (in a normal situation).

[@_Everyone__]

8$ is nothing compared to the time wasted.

[@FreeOfFantasy]

@@henry67278 It certainly will however PEEK is expensive as hell, the kg granulate already costs 41$ directly in China if you take 1000 kg. PA12 is like 4$/kg granulate. And making a filament is also a lot harder in PEEK.

[@KaimasterXD]

@@henry67278 It still will be an expensive material and harder to use than eg PLA. Even for 1/10th of the current price it is not cheap. I still use normal PLA for most of my prints, PETG when it needs to handle higher temps or is loaded continuously. I think it is more likely we will see a material with similar properties but at a lower cost and also easier to print.

[@SanderRave]

Some comments on the PEEK extrusion; PEEK and PEI are practically nephews in the same family, your glue stick won't prevent your model from adhering to your bed. Also processing temperatures of both thermoplastics is in the same range, so it's an accident waiting to happen. Might try a glass bed with glue stick thermal expansion after printing should make it easy to release. Another concern, Both PEI and PEEK are highly hydroscopic, based on your first results you were well prepared or lucky. Best quality printing after drying. Keep up the good work! In the past we did tooling part experiments using ULTEM, for thermoforming, up to prototyping injection moulding and metal working. Did I mention inherent flame retardancy of both PEEK and PEI? FR might be a topic to highlight one time, as many makers use printed parts as electronics housings in a domestic environment. Just a thought...

[@ricklynch]

Aerospace machinist here. I used to machine peek at work quite often. Using 4 axis CNC control setups. It's a very stable material to machine and it's completely electrically isolated. Very expensive though! I have a setup piece in my Machinist toolbox still.

[@leaftye]

What a timely video! I was just looking at the Mosquito and that's how I found out about the Copperhead, and here we are.

[@monkeymanstones1]

I wish I was aware of this hot end before the donation cycle expired, I would have purchased 3. Finally! Someone backing up my statements which have almost always instead resulted in insults, reactions filled with rage or over emphasizing the idea that I'm stupid wherever I say or write: "Your hot end and nozzle in addition to your bed will expand at printing temperatures, so turn them up to your intended printing temperature before you level it." Most people have gone out of their way to attack me for saying as much. It's nice to finally have some backing as your video provided me! Thank you!

[@xtdaniels1988x]

I’ve never seen or heard anyone say anything other than to level at temp. You must be dealing with some hills have eyes crazies or sft. You don’t need that kinda negativity in ya life.

[@monkeymanstones1]

@@xtdaniels1988x I certainly don't appreciate such negativity, but on KZbin and Thingiverse it's a common response by those wanting a feeling of power. It's the action of children and occasionally older adults. It's easily ignored, but I do wish there was something to indicate such text is or is not negative so I could skip over it instead.

[@genericaccount9222]

Damn, you’d expect for $250 they would at least wind the spool right.

[@TeachingTech]

I had to unwind half of it and rewind by hand much tighter.

[@LukasDubeda]

For that type of filament, the manufacturer expects you to have your own winding mechanism for your uber-expensive printer. This is not a hobby filament you just slap on your Prusa and go.

[@derektran9404]

@@LukasDubeda For that type of money, I'd at least expect them to wind it correctly if my 15$ spool of PLA is found better.

[@avgvstvs96]

@@LukasDubeda No, thats no excuse. Selling filament on a roll implies the filament is wound with quality. For that price they should wind it with the same quality as Prusament. No professional 3D printing people wind their own filament.

[@FAB1150]

@@LukasDubeda you still need it not to tangle while you're using that expensive winding mechanism though, that's not really an excuse

[@RomanoPRODUCTION]

Very fine 400°C video, I love watching you at speed x1.5 you sound more fluent and the vampire smile is tremendous. Thank you Michael 🤩🤩🤩

[@ImolaS3]

Hi Micheal, at work I designed a Peek printer and it works great. To get good quality prints you really need the print volume enclosed and a stable internal temperature of around 250C. We used a hot air gun controlled via a solid-state relay - might make a nice project for you :)

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

Very good work. PEEK is very interesting and we may look into it our self. We mainly print ABS and adding Nylon to our line soon. But PEEK would be a great addition once our enclosure product hit's the market and takes off to be further explored. PEEK for sure on RC car's will be a great solution for a lot of their Community due to the fact I have see plenty of melted gears due to the heavy acceleration they endure on those parts.

[@Masso1973]

You’re probably going to use this for automotive applications, Michael, this is why I got into 3D printing in the first place. I’m working towards these types of materials. There will come a time when tinkering on an upgrade for my cars I will need something weird and bespoke and a PEEK print will solve it, I’m sure of it. Enjoyed your video on your bespoke air box 👍

[@MrKnoppersesser]

Tryed to print peek at an internship. You are very lucky it went so smoothly. Very lucky.

[@neur303]

Probably speaks for the hotend 🤔

[@MarinusMakesStuff]

Imagine being able to print your own oldschool hotend with PEEK, but then doing an improved version of for example a J-head :)

[@TeachingTech]

I used to have a peek hot end on my Solidoodle. This brought back memories.

[@Lucas_sGarage]

@@TeachingTech Michael pls pls do it print a hole headsink with peek Mabey for low temp filaments 🤔🤔

[@JasperJanssen]

My first printer was a Printrbot Simple Beta. That had a refined peek hot end. And overall it was a pos.

[@MarinusMakesStuff]

@@JasperJanssen The PEEKhotends that I played with also performed quite well. And it's easy to machine! :) Maybe printing it and then further machining it would be an awesome combination to make impossible PEEK heatbreaks with ventilation holes etc.

[@JasperJanssen]

@@MarinusMakesStuff the hot end was pretty good, it was the rest of that machine that was so incredibly shit. Seriously, blue painters tape on a plywood bed. The plywood construction wasn’t great compared to what we have now (or even the original Prusa Mendel i3, which was happening a few years later IIRC), but that unheated (and tiny) wobbly bed kicked my ass.

[@skaltura]

Clone hotend is shiny, so it reflects -> Thermal camera won't work on it.

[@SliceEngineering]

Great observation! Before we thermal image anything, we paint all the surfaces the same matte black color.

[@falkhen232]

@@SliceEngineering You're better off with a brushed or media blasted surface than matte black, my experience painted surfaces tend to hold heat a lot longer, by reducing air contact from the dissipating surface.

[@SliceEngineering]

@@falkhen232 Thanks for the suggestion! We do surface prep in advance to make sure adhesion is uniform and that we get repeatable results from one sample to the next. Paint is relatively easy, fast, and cheap to apply to multiple types of parts, making it easier to compare "apples to apples".

[@nathantoews152]

@@SliceEngineering Linus tech tips fried a computer by trying to see what would happen if he plastic dipped all the parts. Paint is the same idea. Heat can't escape and air can't contact the parts.

[@SliceEngineering]

@@nathantoews152 the paint is just for thermal imaging, not for normal operation of the printer.

[@linkah]

I love your videos, appreciate all the hard work you do, and really respect your mission to help educate and inform people. I'd love to work with one of these but I've yet to install my Himera after preordering it a year ago. My printers are all in some sort of disrepair and I just don't have the space to work on them so I live vicariously through you, thank you again!

[@paxmortum]

great video again :) the only thing I´m wondering about, is the use of thermal paste from heatblock to the heatbreak ... I always thought we want to have the most bad heat creep out from of the heater block up to the heatsink as ever possible ? am I wrong ? I ever used thermal paste from heatblock to nozzle => good, heatbreak to heatsink => great but never ever from heatblock to the heatbreak

[@michaels3003]

The S.E. online instructions recommend using the paste on the threads as well.

[@milaanpatel4997]

I am really looking forward for your experiments on 3D printing PEEK. Its a widely used material in High Vacuum applications, as a low temperature substitute of ceramics. If some how this thing works, it has great potential in Fusion and Aerospace application. I am currently using 3D printed ABS (sometimes nylon) components for my plasma experiments and you cant imagine how much PEEK components woulds help me. It may seem expensive for hobby work, but for industry it is pretty cheap substitute compared to ceramics and machined SS. Great work .....!!

[@DavidMarko-ot8kw]

I noticed you wear Infiniti shirts. I looked for, finally found and had to travel from Phoenix, AZ to Jacksonville, FL to get what I wanted. I got an infiniti Q70S V8 5.6 liter engine at 440hp. It's a little rare as the "S" models are harder to find and the V8 5.6 is also a hard find. Not to mention that I wanted a Black exterior and cream colored interior seat and the 16 speaker system which has speakers built into the headrest. Sorry for the off topic as I found this video to do some research on the Mosquito and similar which I have installed on a Voron 0.1 build with a Bondtech LGX extruder. It's a challenging configuration as I did not find any predesigned fan shrouds for the Bondtech/Mosquito combo but I designed my own that works well. I've just finished the build which was complicated. As you know it's not only the build but it's a firmware install and configure, a printer.cfg file with stepper motor specs, motor direction, etc. Plus it's a Raspberry install with Klipper, Moonraker, and I decided on Mainsail. Then it's a set up on a slicer, I am using the Prusa Slicer instead of my traditional Cura. I haven't gotten my first print yet as just minutes ago I completed the toolhead and fan shroud print. I configured the E-steps by adjusting the printer.cfg file and tested 100mm of measured filament. First print coming soon. You always have great content so thanks.

[@SeanTaffert]

Michael, great video on practical application of advanced plastics on what are considered "home/hobby" machines! Nice to see that people are pushing the boundaries of what was previously on available as industrial use only. I propose you look at using the PEEK for something either very tough (like marine boat parts, or bus/train applications) or needs to be subjected to repeated sterilizations (like medical/dental equipment, surgical tooling, food contact, etc...) ...of course there is always printing a small rocket to launch in LOE....but I digress.

[@Mr_Pewpy_But-Whole]

finally peek ! i think peek is best with heated chamber and kapton tape. also you need to bake the parts afterward to increase strength

[@AlexJoneses]

On our machines, we use expendable and expensive build sheets for this type of filaments, that can't be used twice. And if you take off the part and it brings the sheet with it, that means that the part is too cool. You have to take off the part when it is roughly 100-200 degrees celcius from the sheet, as it will have a much weaker bond then, and also printing a raft is probably the best idea.

[@DoRC]

The e3d heatsink is shiny. Thermal imaging is the same is regular imaging. Shiny surfaces will reflect the ir light from around them. It's almost certain that the e3d temp was wrong because of this. You need to paint a part of it flat or matte black to get an accurate reading.

[@markploeger8624]

Why is there thermal paste on both ends of the heat break? Isn't the point of the heat break to *prevent* heat transfer from the hot side to the cold side? Seems like thermal paste would be counter productive here.

[@f16pilotjumper]

For valid thermal camera comparison the surfaces have to have the same finish. The black anodize will emit a lot more IR and read higher. A better measurement would be to actually stick a theromcouple down the heat break to the start of the cold zone. Others have done this and shown the Copperheat heat break performs well.

[@iz5269]

Haha "Internal torque" I love it when you insert cold jokes in your videos!

[@cyberlaurent2101]

Congratulations for your Renault support ! Thanks for this instructive vidéo.

[@zhongluehu1159]

I really like this video! I also made a PEEK 3D printer based on Ender 3, the nozzle is from the Dyze Design. From my experience, the bed temperature does not need to be that high, I typically set to 70 C and use some paste to help PEEK adhere. Also glass build plate seems outperforms PEI sheet, which is very flat and easier to clean after use.

[@Aaron-fx5zi]

I’m in the process of converting my ender 3 for peek. Do you have an email I can contact you with?

[@Lidocain777]

Don't know if I'll try PEEK at some point. Actually, I never had situations where a hi-temp resistance is required. For now, PETG, ABS, PA and PC are plenty enough to me. Since PEEK is a veeery specialized material, designed for industrial requirements, it might not be for me right now. Yet, who knows ... As hi-temp printers become more and more common, maybe the PEEK price tag may slightly lower and become a bit more affordable ? Considering the application field of PEEK, you might use it for very specific things. I don't know, maybe parts that would lie a in a hot (or cold) environment and be virtually undestructible. It has to be something useful. No lattice cube or cute Groot here. Engineering parts. Oh ... and that hotend looks marvelous !

[@jothain]

Lol. It's common material in food packaging machines where ie. filling head needs to withstand cip chemicals. It's hilarious to read all space age plastic comments for someone who works with machines 😄

[@KnowBuddiesLP]

Just picked up microswiss to replace an issue stock hot end, this does look much more stylish, but as I print only pla no need for this myself, but very cool to know it's out there and what it can do! Thanks!

[@tobias5740]

Didn't know Esteban Ocon was into 3D printing.

[@jozefwaldhauser]

hahaha

[@goddamnmaddog2024]

XD, now print a racing-car! and drive a world record!

[@TeachingTech]

Danny Ric fan here. In fact my dog is named Ricciardo, and my pevious dog was named Webber.

[@tobias5740]

@@TeachingTech Haha awesome! Can't wait to see Danny in a McLaren next year. I have a very good feeling about it.

[@tacoterito22]

Love when you put your mistakes to, its refreshing!!! good video!!

[@4funrc11]

Thank you for the heads up. 👍 Definitely only for specialized, specific applications. 😃

[@phillipstearns7258]

Love that smile at the end.

[@VincentGroenewold]

Mmm, so, I usually think these video's are absolutely great. But not accounting for the different offset, not having the peek dried (which can also cause issues with sticking properly), is a bit surprising. Also, it would've been nice to see more tests with a cheaper filament that doesn't stop you for the cost of it, like CF nylon or something.

[@travistucker7317]

He is only human, Vince.

[@spookydonkey2195]

Super good video! I’m excited to see a project with that material

[@MyLonewolf25]

I would not use any hardened steel nozzles past 300c as that’s into tempering ranges which will soften the hardness.

[@cavemansmancave9025]

PEEK, especially carbon filled PEEK is very wear resistant and so is good for some bearing applications. In such applications, a small amount of material could be very useful. Thanks, John

[@acarus3]

Did the instructions say to put thermal paste on the heat break threads that screw into the hot block? It seems wrong as you don't want heat conducting off the hot block into the heat break.

[@Underp4ntz_Gaming_Channel]

I own a couple of them but they really need to get a rid of this paste... it's not nice to work with and annoying to replace heaters or thermistors... they need to make a clamp system and everybody is happy. and also add screw holes or tubes like the mosquito so you can just quick swap nozzles instead of turning everything loose. P.S. use rafts for PEEK and use glass, metal or carbon build plates. Carbon is the best but metal is fine too, glass can/might break

[@vladimirseven777]

Instead of paste there can be (and will be) filament.

[@cthulpiss]

Could you elaborate on carbon plates, please ?

[@Aaron-fx5zi]

What about garolite build plate?

[@iRiselyTech]

Hey Michael, Do you think thermal paste used in the same way, on the heatbreak, nozzle, thermistor and heater would benefit a standard 3d printer and increase reliability / temperature tolerances?

[@Angelo_Aus]

Things you can print with your cautiously acquired filament ? Maybe jewellery 😬 As always, .... love your videos 👍

[@GoranMilici]

Have you heard of Dyze hotend and thought about doing a comparisons? I just got mine cooperhead but I also ordered Dyze. Most people haven't heard about that but Tom did a review on it. The 24v 500c sells for about 85 us dollars or the wattercooled version around 124. Very interested in doing some comparison between the 2. I ordered some Polylite PC, pc-fr, pc-pbt. They only print at 270 but I'll try and get more high grade filament.

[@hanswurstusbrachialus5213]

Why thermal compound on the heatbreak threads? I think thats not necessary or correct.

[@sp00nesis]

Peek vs Bridge Nylon!! Maybe do a collaboration with CNC Kitchen for the testing part. (*edit, I was thinking mainly the mechanical properties, as I realize that heat and chemical are right there in the specs)

[@Exstaz]

+10C Sean to be a common factor. Everyone I know need to boat temps around 10c even in a mosquito.

[@Wodpuncher001]

I printet arround 1kg in PEI and PEKK Carbon Super awesome stuff but it is a must to keep it as dry as possible. Luckily the printer (Minifactory Ultra) had a heated filament chamber that dryed everything to 0% humidity

[@chalky3320]

As always a fantastic review and quality video content thanks Mike

[@eddale2273]

Good day. I have a small custom motorcycle business. I do all my own 3d printing with my Creality CR10 v2. I installed the Micro Swiss direct drive extruder for the creality with the hotend. And set the hotend temp to run up to 450c and heated bed for up to 100c more if needed. I print motorcycle coverings, finders and the one I really like is fuel tanks. Yes fuel tanks are a work in progress. It is working out well I just need the time in durability. Can only learn that with time and feel testing. But the Swiss add on has opened a lot more door of filaments I can test with. Just the price sucks lol. And temp setting is very hard to have consistent temp from one roll to the next. Funny topic I keep my filament in a food saver vacuum bag using the sealer set to dry foods with 2 to 3 the little moster bags to help keep the filament dry.

[@jhonnylacksville6765]

You PEEKed my interest

[@neur303]

How did you clean your nozzle afterwards?

[@Tedlasman]

Moar peek experiments plis. Enclosing, insulating chamber, heating chamber, dealing with heat etc.

[@Phago90]

I'm Customizing a tronxy X5sa at the moment in serveral steps (right Now at step 2 of 5) to print peek in the end) The Bad layer adhesion could be because of the open chamber. I read of an Ambiente temp of 100-150 degrees Celsius to print peek without Problems. Therefor I will use a watercooled hotend. I totally understand, That you don't want to use so much of this filament for testing. But try to use it on a glass Plate. Joel met some guys from a Company which invented a "gluestick" especially for peek.

[@timmturner]

Personally I would use ultem since it's similar and much less expensive, unless the part absolutely needs the extended temperature range peek provides over ultem.

[@fozbstudios]

How does this compare to the volcano ? Does it allow easier printing with larger nozzles

[@pet3ro]

Your can speed up wrapping with this kind of wrap by "screwing it on" the cables Just get a few wraps on and then start twisting the wrap.

[@tomkayak9752]

Oh, the irony of 3D printing PEEK :)

[@nife3557]

Sorry, but why no comparisons with the currently popular/similar hotends? Hope for a longer video in the future...

[@vishu996]

You added thermal paste to heat break ,that why it allow heat transfer so it goes to 75 degree.

[@Anyone700]

That is not how heatbreaks work, the tube is doing all the work.

[@WhiteStripesWS6]

I guess up until now I thought PEEK needed to be printed in a heated chamber. I haven't seen the previous vids on this SK-GO, do you have it in an enclosure at all?

[@kevinm3751]

Do you know if this can be modified for the Hemera?

[@alexteichner9988]

So which hotend would you recommend for high temps: this, or the microswiss you have on your ender 5? Currently doing an Ender 5 upgrade myself, and I'd like to be able to print both low temp and high temp materials. I haven't committed to a hotend yet, since there's many different options. Thanks!

[@certified-forklifter]

just 5 seconds in, i knew it would become expensive xD great video! :D enjoy weekend.

[@zaidinh]

PEEK printing is recommended in a heated enclosure with temps around 100 deg Celsius

[@lvxleather]

I have machined quite a bit of peek for marine components, and gripper fingers on robotics that operate in more extreme conditions.

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

Would have been nice if you had shown how to do the firmware changes/ pid tune.

[@jaymejias]

Hi I have 2 Creality CR 10 Max, I would like to modified one of them from 450mm on the X axis to 900mm. Mechanically I have the know how, but my question is can the machine parameter be modified? By the way your channel is awsome.

[@0xDEADBEEF]

I'm totally can't understand one thing: why you have to apply thermal paste to the heatbreak beacuse it should be as cold as it can and applying an thermal paste to it does this purpose meaningless, isn't it? If you apply that paste to the other side of heatbreak it will help to transfer heat to radiator, but appliyng it to the side where it can get MOAR heat does completly wrong things, so it will cool the hotend making an opposite work to the heater. And also will get more heat from heatblock beacause of thermopaste. PS: English is not my native language.

[@TeachingTech]

Just following the instructions.

[@kain0m]

Maybe they use the paste as a kind of glue. I think in terms of thermal performance, this stuff wouldn't be necessary, but it likely prevents the nozzle and heat break from wandering out.

[@flaviodeslandes]

@@kain0m there is a kind of loctite orange/red color to use on cars manifold bolts, supposed to withstand over 600 degrees Celsius. maybe could be used between hotend and heatbreak as "adhesive sealer"?

[@t3cker]

What brand's fan do they use? I ordered now 4 or 5 pseudo silent ones from different brands. Noctua isnt an option at all due to the lower airflow

[@samlego2]

6:56 i didn't hear you say "Click" when your internal torque wrench reached is value ;)

[@waikryder6633]

do you have a video on how to change the thermistor and hot end settings via pronterface?

[@hypersphereengineering6015]

Why did Slice Engineering make the Mosquito mechanically strong enough to do one handed nozzle changes but the Copper head requires you hold The heat block with a spanner whilst you undo the nozzle with a second spanner?

[@brad.portelli]

lets hope the peek prices come down over time, as just purchased a Bondtech LGX Shortcut Mosquito setup for new voron/hypercube hybrid im making, and id love to be able to print some exotics :P

[@AndrewAHayes]

Is there a recommended surface by the manufacturer for this filament?

[@mikel2730]

You should try peek from filamatrix made here in the states ..iv never had good results with esun peek ,no heated chamber needed for the filamatrix .im using the slice mosquito instead of the copperhead

[@landspide]

You can almost print a standard heat block itself with that!

[@jchristensen2022]

Interesting material and hotend. I think I'll pass with those setup costs. Keep up the good work.

[@MrKnoppersesser]

I've been waiting for this. 😅

[@oktopus1539]

0 views, 2 likes, 1 (now 2) comments but still the best video

[@justy1337]

I have been waiting for another vid since the last one.

[@shubhamshekhar1831]

HELLO, i'm totally new to 3d printing and due to your videos about it i'm assembling one, i don't have all the parts now but ive done testing that it works great using pronterface, the issue i'm having is no display, display light comes on but nothing afterward and also no sd card detected.msg shown in pronterface

[@ragevenom50]

Hi Michael How does the copperhead compare to the original musquito hotend?

[@mathewphillips4185]

Okay what would you recommend for a bed for printing with PEEK.

[@lacucaracha111111]

You could print some super close and directed PLA/ABS cooling ducts for super cooling quality

[@brettcnc]

Vision miner company have excellent info on high temp printing and bed issues.

[@UNVIRUSLETALE]

You should also try the TL dragon

[@bigratkiller1]

Why would you use thermal paste on the point where the heat break fit's into the heatsink. You want as little transmission of heat there as possible

[@scramsby]

You want heat transfer away from the heat break in that section to the heat sink to cool down the upper part of the heat break (i.e. prevent heat creep). Otherwise the heat might instead transfer to the filament therein and cause a clog. The heat transfer you really don't want is between the middle part of the heat break to the upper part of the heat break, which isn't affected by the use of the paste there.

[@samhughes1747]

Wouldn't copper shims be better for heat transfer than giant globs of thermal paste? I Mean, not knocking BN, but I've got a spool of 100 micron copper foil for stuff like that.

[@ballbous]

Using a product developed by a company that isn't aiming to hamper development in the 3d printing industry would be better to I might add.

[@samhughes1747]

@@ballbous, man, I don’t know if you follow “The Meltzone,” but I really feel conflicted there. Like, I get it, and by all means, enforce a patent…but I’ve got an NF-crazy putting down plastic now, and I’ve got two Crazy Extruders with magnum blocks getting here in early December. Forget “money grabbing and stifling innovation,” Slice Engineering should steal Mellow’s and Trianglelabs innovations right back, and be that much better for it.

[@ballbous]

@@samhughes1747 At the end of the day trianglelabs and mellow are putting in 10x the innovation as slice engineering. Supporting open source projects while slice is hurting them. At the end of the day they will never stop Chinese clones, so their patent just stops companies in countries that recognise the patent from using the design. Their most recent foray into killing a small open source project is much more egregious in my view.

[@ballbous]

At the end of the day might have made too many appearances, it's late and this company has trounced over the entire 3d printing community, makes my blood boil.

[@toastrecon]

We used to use PEEK in an oil drilling/electronics application where I used to work. Man, that stuff is tough. How do you plan on printing with it without it ruining printer beds?

[@seanwood5443]

Borosilicate glass bed

[@alejandroperez5368]

Texturized side

[@timd9430]

Textured PEI Fine Powder Coated Spring Steel Flex Sheet

[@3dlabs754]

@@PRiMETECHAU The glass beds love to chunk with a lot of high temp materials. Carbon fiber plates with high temp epoxy are one of the better solutions.

[@spinyheghog]

Peek is very humidity sensitive all brands have spools that are loose packed they expect you to respool after baking the water out of the filament.

[@Razwer]

Haha respect for wearing the Renault F1 gear. Too bad it's Renault though but next year McLaren should be much better.

[@TeachingTech]

I had to celebrate the return of F1 this weekend.

[@Razwer]

@@TeachingTech sadly we both didn't have anything to celebrate afterwards. Both Max and Daniel didn't finish :(

[@ManIkWeet]

I'm shocked that they told you to put thermal paste between the heater block and the heatbreak... The purpose of the heatbreak is to minimize heat going to the coldside and you just put thermal compound to improve the heat transfer?

[@niclic106]

I think you shouldn't apply thermal paste to upper part of heatbrake which make contact with radiator.

[@GurlNextDoor150]

I also did the kickstarter on this but wanted to put it on my cr10 s5. Has anyone done that? I want to use the slice heater catridge and thermistor and fan I got that are 12v.s Should I just splcie the cables together? Or try to add molex connectors? Looking for any guide.

[@suivzmoi]

individually packed ziploc bags, beautiful labels, QR code to track part history, orange and black color scheme, hmm where have i seen that before..

[@kei2142]

Hmm, maybe the melting PEEK fused with the PEI, might need a different print bed.

[@Bynming]

Are you sure the hot end didn't simply melt the PEI?

[@jake360flip]

PEEK benchy! Most expensive Benchy printed?

[@3D_Printing]

Please try 3D printing Solder, may need cooling quick