Slite V2 RES Class RC Glider

[@imbok]

Thanks for including the detailed assembly steps. The fixturing is impressive and the key to building a straight airplane. That wing is delightful and the bird flies beautifully. Modern F3-RES sailplanes are such a treat.

[@AviatorJohn70]

The F3-RES models fly so good, amazing sailplanes and fairly priced. Great video!

[@davidbrohede]

Thanks, great video! Just got the kit for E-Purito, but looked carefully at this one as well. Nicely done!

[@imbok]

I built an E-Purito last year and it's a thermal king. It's also easy to fly, very responsive, and the spoilers are effective. It's one of my favorites.

[@frikkied2638]

Beautiful build, very high build quality.

[@michaelwhinnery164]

Absolutely Brilliant, What a Beautiful model

[@josefgergetz6949]

Very clean built! Enjoy!

[@user1951-f3s]

A beauty! Doesn’t want to land!

[@kev4354]

Nice Build

[@Mongo63a]

Nice looking bird. I was told no one uses Hi-starts any more, guess they were wrong. Your video really makes me want to buy and build the kit even though its been since 1988 since the last time I flew R/C gliders.

[@AxelsDIY]

Thanks! In my club, we use hi-starts sometimes and we enjoy it. I am quite new to it. But there is definitely a special feeling flying a glider without an electric motor. We even have four glider competitions every summer, mostly as a fun get-together event, all types of gliders without motors are allowed, usually around 8 or 10 participants. I think you should buy a kit, this one or something similar, and get into the hobby again.

[@Mongo63a]

@@AxelsDIY Unfortunately a drunk drive has made sure it would be extremely difficult and all the kids are gone from the house.

[@garycaruso4883]

that's artwork!

[@AxelsDIY]

Thanks!

[@jerrygiles1661]

Do you have any details on the hi-start (bungee) you used? How what elastic and how long? What line and how long? Thanks, I'm anxious to begin my Slite

[@jeanjacquesbenattar9194]

bonjour avez vous ete obligé de rajouter du poids en vol avec du vent merci de me repondre cdt

[@AxelsDIY]

Google translate: "Good morning, Have you had to add weight in flight with wind? Thank you for answering me". No, I have not tried it. I have flown in what I consider pretty strong winds for this small model. It becomes a bit hard to control. Maybe a bit of extra weight would help, but instead I prefer to fly another larger hewier glider I have in conditions like that. The Slite V2 is intended for light wind only.

[@jeanjacquesbenattar9194]

@@AxelsDIYthank you for your reply. Yes I had to add weight to keep the plane in a normal flight attitude. actually in calm winds it flies very well. what adjustment do you suggest (centering, etc.) to get the most out of this glider?

[@jeanjacquesbenattar9194]

Good morning can you tell me how you fit the white plastic sheath of the stabilizer controls into the spindle tube thank you jjb

[@jerrygiles1661]

Great video production. I just took delivery of my Slite v2 today and confirmed what i expected- the manual is not in English. I love this plane and anxious to begin the build. However, I'm concerned about not having the benefit of the verbal explanation. Did you build it strictly by the plans and photos? Or were you able to translate? Thanks again for your video. I'm sure it will be helpful. Jerry G

[@daviddavids2884]

some late information CF is HEAVIER than wood.! pine/fir or spruce or clear-grained poplar should be used wherever it's practical to do so.! including, at wing leading edges.! it is less-than smart to make the tail heavier, by using CF there.! at this scale, the use of a cylindrical main spar nearly bisects the ribs.! which is the opposite of smart.! instead, a main spar should be formed, using upper and lower (poplar/spruce) spars and webbing between them; across the central one-half of the wingspan. then, eliminate most/all the partial ribs. the use of an over-tall vert-stab results in two things: there is a bit more mass at the tail, and, the vert-stab will make relatively more drag.! is there a compelling reason to use a less-efficient polyhedral wing.? 103 there is little reason to use a semi-symmetrical profile in the design of a low reynolds number (re#) wing. 117 it is not clear whether the main spar is correctly located at thirty percent of chord. 505 you should be holding on to the LINE, not to the model. the CF tail boom is Heavy, and it's (aft-located) mass contributes to tail-heaviness in the model's dom.

[@AxelsDIY]

Note that I am not the designer of this plane, I just built it as a kit. Maybe you are right about the carbon fiber. But it also depends on the dimensions and type of carbon. For example, the tail boom and wing spars are woven, not extruded. I do also like upper/lower wing spars in wood better, That is how I built my E-glider 2024 for example, with is my own design: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iHLHlmiEZ8qCn5I The polyhedral wing is very important when you only steer using rudder, and don't have any ailerons. That is the whole point of the RES-class. The site V2 may not be perfect, but I still think this is a good kit because It was easy and fun to build, and also flies great!

[@Aeromaniacos1987]

top..

[@bergkongs]

Vakker