Small Engine Dyno build, explanation and initial test fire!

[@DR-br5gb]

I can tell you're a low key genius by the amount of accurate information your brain delivers over a given time.

[@TwistedBuilds]

Can’t tell if this is a slam or a complement. However I do need to get back to this project at some point.

[@DR-br5gb]

@@TwistedBuilds I mean a compliment I guess. For me, I'm just making an observation.

[@willyck948]

I'm going to subscribe because I like the dyno idea. Hydrolic pump might be little easier to fine tune then break pads but I'm still interested in watching what's next✌

[@capcloud]

Good job! This looks like it's pretty well done.

[@WireWeHere]

A little late but I'm bored in 2020 isolation. Hanging a static load on your load cell can offset your reading and put it into its sweet spot or wherever you want. Also handy for expanding your HP capabilities. Have fun with your wisdom building.

[@mikaelrossander2016]

Great build! How do you know how to apply correct load to the brake rotor?

[@RainbowSheep_was_taken]

its a prony dyno, you just give it gas and give it some load and then start applying load while giving it gas, people who make these dynos only really care about max torque and horsepower so the graph will look weird sometimes

[@sammorgan31]

I know it's an old video, but a hall effect sensor near the flywheel would probably be better than trying to safely route HV from the coil to a computer chip. Easy path to frying a chip.

[@SloppyMechanics]

awesome so you can plot TQ over rpm? this is going to be awesome. i wonder how much correction you'll need because the brakes will skew results, and that 180 hose bend off the metal hard line on the brake line makes me cringe lol

[@TwistedBuilds]

Brake hose is just hanging there by its own hose weight currently because its not hooked to anything. Its going to get its own mount once I start running lines and testing to see if I can use regulated shop air or if I need to go hydraulic. I'm assuming I'll have to go hydraulic but want to try air first for my own knowledge anyhow. I dont think I'll need correction for the brakes themselves but I may. Really this is working the exact same way a water brake engine dyno (like 99% of manufacturers use when making bigger engine dynos) does. Pretty much sees how much resistance (in lb/ft) can be applied to the engine to hold it at X rpm. X rpm just increases (load applied decreases) during the pull, some dyno operators call this a ramp curve or just ramp. I'll just have to rescale the ramp if I have a engine that can drive through it LOL. But anyway even when the brakes heat up like they will, this means more force will have to be applied to the brake pads aka brake pedal force to maintain the same friction on the pads/rotors which intern means the same about of resistance to rotation is still technically being applied, it just takes more brake pedal force to achieve this because the co-efficient of friction drops when the pads/rotors heat up. Hopefully I didn't loose other folks there. Its a little hard to explain. And it may not work that way. I may have to record heat with a infrared sensor and accommodate in the code. But I know of one way to find out if it'll work LOL. Yes I'll be able to plot TQ and HP over RPM, along with any other parameter I'll be logging, like barometric pressure, Air temp, humidity, etc. Actually looking to get a few dyno files from your wiki and see how they are coded. I'm going to try to get the arduino to write the dyno datalog files to work with that win7 dyno program. For now I'll probably stick with MegaLogViewerMS until I have that figured out but it shouldnt take me long at all to figure it out. Not trying to reinvent the wheel with new log viewing software.

[@christopherwilliams8423]

Going to use your pulley design. Thanks

[@kipmyers5897]

Do have any advice for a dummy on how to use a computer program on one of these? I'm wanting to build one for chainsaws....great video !!!!

[@СтивСкотт]

How do you plan to get around the fading issue with that setup to maintain a constant load?

[@frankieh2011]

You should put a water mister on the rotor to cool it and stop fade otherwise the brake resistance and caliper pressure ratio will change with heat and make the math less accurate.

[@imcanika2715]

You loss power with the friction belts, is´t it? for the other looks nice like home made project !!

[@kipmyers5897]

Would you sell a detailed set of plans for this?

[@pico67ss]

Could you go low tech and use a scale

[@WhisperWisdomHub]

Are u able to make 10 kw dyno similar to your How much cost or you need if I buy from you ,,liked your concept really

[@nuvey7939]

Very interesting. Are you going to be able to verify the horsepower or torque readings? Or is this more of a "more power than last time" design?

[@nickuyen8712]

What’s the max rpm on your disk there, your pulley set up looks 1:1, even with the governor of around 3000rpm or 5000rpm without I’d be worried about your disc exploding. Even high end discs aren’t good for that speed.

[@Frz45]

Old comment but you have a good point, say an average car tyre is 2ft diameter, at 100mph it would be doing about have of 3000rpm, typically these engines run at 3200 or 3600.

[@amindnew527]

Can you take a Sloppy HPTuner file and adapt to Speeduino HPTuner?? awesome stuff!

[@rednecktractors10]

Awesome setup, but I'm pretty sure that's a Briggs engine, not a Kawasaki

[@dynodom4677]

Interesting Project. Only thing I do not undestand is the meaning of "Ohmm"?

[@TwistedBuilds]

Dominique Opferkuch, a lot of electrical design focuses around spirituality. We call it ohhhhmmmmmm's law. It takes a lot of meditation and focus to truly understand its full potential.

[@dynodom4677]

URI ... well, that explans it.

[@mareksumguy1887]

How the hell is dyno-inertia a problem??? Do you mean theres too much [friction] resistance for this engine at idle, to overcome??