Small Sailboat Electrical Panel & Electrical Upgrade

[@sldaley5692]

Thanks (a lot!) for your terrific video. I've got a similar boat of about the same vintage (Finnfire 33) that needs a complete electrical overhaul (an "underhaul" for wiring?) Your methodical work, with the added complexity of shooting video, is most appreciated. I'm still a pretty young guy (75 and counting) but, for some reason, starting to slow down. (Maybe it's just that my lovely wife's todo list keeps getting longer?) In any case, you have jump-started my own project. Good luck with that Pacific Seacraft!

[@trailsandsails2722]

Thanks for your comments! I think you're on to something regarding the cause for slowing down. I'm experiencing the same! Darn diversions. Best of luck to you on your projects.

[@sweetlifeadventure7]

Great project, thanks for sharing!

[@vetteman2920]

I feel your pain. I’m doing the same thing to my 78 Pearson 35. What a mess the wiring is.

[@trailsandsails2722]

Yep...but that effort pays great dividends! Loved that panel and upgrade cruising this summer! Good luck & watch for sharp screw ends hiding around corners you can't see!

[@barntt]

It's my understanding that the main Bilge pump is to be wired directly to a breaker at the 12V Panel but on separate wire coming from the POS terminal strip of the House Battery POS after the Main fuse that can NEVER to be switched off EVER! And should be tested regularly like the fluids of your engine.

[@trailsandsails2722]

Thanks much for your comments. I agree with much of what you have mentioned- particularly that the main bilge pump can not be turned off by mistake. Mine is on a separate branch to a small panel with a fuse. The small panel (from Rule) has a manual/auto position switch (there is no off position) with which I can easily check that the pump is working. I check that on my departures checklist and also check it if I am leaving the boat for more than a day or two. I have my backup bilge pump wired to the panel with a breaker. I also have a high water alarm in the bilge. It has a red indicator light to let me know it has power.

[@seanrhone5306]

Could you go deeper on the fuse block around 12:40?

[@trailsandsails2722]

Thanks for pointing that out. The 4 way fuse block contains sockets for four 1 amp fuses that are required when installing the Blue Seas 8068 DC panel to protect wiring and the panel voltmeter and ammeter. Since the aim is to measure battery use, wires to the meters go directly to batteries and these fuses protect electronics & wiring in case there is a short somewhere in the panel or downstream wires. I bought the block on Amazon (Fuse Block,12-24V Car 4 Way Circuit Standard Blade Fuse Box Block Holder) as it does not come with the Blue Seas panel. I hope this addresses your question and if not, please get back in touch.

[@STUARTLUCAS2]

shunts normally go on negative side next to battery not positive side

[@superformOG]

shouldnt that shunt be on the negitive side?

[@trailsandsails2722]

I'm not an electrician. So I followed the instructions from Blue Seas on that. I know it also depends on your bonding system or method for the boat's electrical and grounding. Nigel Calder's book 'Mechanical & Electrical Manual' is a good source of info too.

[@redwood1957]

Did you fuse the wires for you dc panel at the battery?

[@trailsandsails2722]

Thanks for mentioning that. I have the little cube shaped Blue Seas battery terminal fuses on 2 of 3 batteries but didn't have room in the battery box for the 3rd at that time. I hadn't figured out what I was going to do so didn't shoot that part of the video.

[@larryjohnson5597]

Do you want to sell any of your boat panels parts

[@trailsandsails2722]

If you are referring to the old Pacific Seacraft panels, they are still here. You can have them at the price of shipping.

[@STUARTLUCAS2]

my mistake that shunt is for amps meter isnt it forgot about that meter

[@terrym3543]

Hiding that fuse block inside is a bad idea. A fuse will blow in that at the most inopportune time and you won't be able to get at it. I can't speak for boats but for homes that would be illegal. All fuses should have easy access.

[@trailsandsails2722]

I should have gone into detail on that and thanks for bringing it up. My intent was to mount that panel on a hinge mount so it can open like a door as you see on many larger boat panels but I need to design and build a frame. There's little space available elsewhere near the panel so where they are is a safe and dry place for the block- just not convenient at this time. BTW- that fuse block is not critical, its solely for the meters. Most small panels don't have meters.

[@Coyotehello]

Nice work! Thanks for sharing. I am just starting a similar project on our Van de Stadt 34 (www.youtube.com/@sailinglaysan4453). The video shows me what I will be up against! Just two quick comments/questions: 1- Is the shut supposed to be connected right after the battery and before the first bus bar? 2- Is DC NEG supposed to be yellow? (or maybe you re0used the legacy wire?).

[@trailsandsails2722]

@@Coyotehello thanks for your thoughtful comments! Regarding 1: I followed Blue seas installation instructions on the shunt so it's right after the battery and I do have a battery fuse right at the terminal. 2: yes, that yellow was a legacy wire. I do have a wire list so I noted what wire and what color are for each circuit.