Smyth Busters: AR-15 Bolt / Carrier Lubrication

[@Welder6131]

Rule of thumb for any firearm: lubricate any contact points of moving parts. Any thing else just collects dirt and waste lube.

[@Welder6131]

@William Bailey holy shit man ur killing me!!! :) lmfao

[@DonziGT230]

"Any contact points of moving parts": Firing pin, locking lugs, piston, trigger group.....all places where most people say not to lube.

[@acatinatux9601]

a nice thin coat of oil does help with rust tho, not a total waste

[@Welder6131]

@JKSteve1124 To each their own, it's all opinions anyway.

[@bangochupchup]

Good advice Long Shot. I usually have one handgun, a carbine and a shotty in "grab and go" status. These firearms are lubed on all contact points. If I take a gun out knowing I'll shoot it, I go a heavy on the lube. This further helps to reduce wear and tear and usually makes the gun a bit easier to clean.

[@yxz91]

I just like how these videos don't start with a 5 minute intro and a 10 minute life story. Straight to the point.

[@mikedurhan9941]

And I like the way they start without music blasting and somebody screaming, "What's happening, Dudes!"

[@Jedi_Wraith]

Same, same, same

[@ed5042]

I have to tell you, I REALLY appreciate these particular 'smyth busters'. Talk about an eye opener

[@brownells]

Thank you so much!

[@gscop1683]

When running a high round count SWAT class there have been times after a few hundred rounds that we actually dipped the carrier assembly in a small bucket of light oil.

[@pault.mccain6637]

@@gscop1683 Vickers has a video where he decisively destroys the myth of two much lubrication, involving gallons of motor oil and dipping a handgun and an AR in it and blasting away.

[@brendanh8978]

I don't have personal experience with this, but I have heard that too much lubrication can be a problem in really fine dusty places like Afghanistan. The moon dust sticks to the oil and can cake up after a while. Could also be a myth though. Personally, I always grease up my buffer tube too, just to get rid of the sproing.

[@CoryHobbs2178]

@@brownells I second this!

[@bryanmahon7866]

Anytime you have friction between two metal parts, and a high explosion going on, you decrease that friction with proper lubrication, and help to dissipate that heat. Two of the most destructive forces, heat, and friction...

[@carlbecklehimer1898]

I generally run it wet using CLP. I've found that they run well dry and clean, wet and clean, wet and dirty but, not dry and dirty. That being said, it's easier to clean when it's been lubricated properly.

[@russ1376]

yea i like it when you basically wipe it clean instead of having to scrub.

[@Golgi-Gyges]

When I was a new soldier, and most of my time in the military I kept it well-oiled, as directed and the established norm. Before and during my deployment to the Middle-East, I used practically none. I thought very carefully about it and decided that only true "friction surfaces" may need lubrication. It worked very well...actually better than with more lube. I wasn't wanting to attract sand and dust to those surfaces either. There has been so much misinformation in the military about lubing the bolt-carrier group. I am a big fan of dry lube also.

[@Oldmankingspiffy]

I was introduced to tw25b in Iraq my second tour and I swear by it. It runs smooth and no issues with dirt and dust.

[@longiusaescius2537]

@Justin Haven lubriplate?

[@yellowboxster06]

@@Oldmankingspiffy TW25b is a great product. Beyond using it on my AR, my Sig P220 won’t run reliably without it and most of my 1911s run better if I use this on the slide rails.

[@Spelunkernaut]

@@Oldmankingspiffy I started using TW25B over the last 10 years or so on everything. It stays in place, and easily outlasts most other products.

[@PeachTreesHOA]

What are Caleb’s hair lube points?!

[@Brokefootchuck]

Run it wet!

[@zstunts4843]

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@beeleo]

CLP... It cleans, lubricates AND protects.

[@markwright760]

@@beeleo Cleaner kills Lube, so CLP attacks itself. Use seperate cleaner, lube, and protector.

[@JohnQuincy1776]

@@markwright760 it sounds like this needs a Smith Busters episode.

[@noahmercy-mann4323]

Here in Wyoming where the relative humidity can be single digits, I have had several failures (usually FTCs) trying to run an AR dry. A light application of CLP or Tetra oil on the "shiny spots" on the outside of the BCG and a few drops in the bolt bore result in 100% functionality.

[@Bream243]

If you look at the bottom of the BCG, you were see slight wearing on the rails on each side and in the center area between the rails. I have seen videos where they recommend a very light coat of oil on these areas.

[@yourface3154]

@@Bream243 Oh, like this very video? Lol!

[@MarkiusFox]

When I was a fresh recruit, I did whatever was told of me and trusted the NCOs. Fast forward to the end of my contract and I was very particular about what NCOs tried to do to _MY_ rifle. They wanted it DRIPPING wet with CLP and I refused, didn't get any reprimand for it. Dripping wet just didn't make sense to me, it was unnecessarily introducing the potential for schmoo and crud to habitate in the rifle.

[@tuco86x]

Schmooooo

[@angry_zergling]

@@tuco86x Schmoo. I haven't heard that term but I think I will use it. Ty.

[@stevenrichards3699]

My late brother in law, said that they cleaned their guns with soap and hot water, and ran their M16's bone dry in Vietnam. They only squirted it with lube if it jammed up in a firefight.

[@Resistculturaldecline]

​@@stevenrichards3699 That's the exact truth. Lubrication only helps after theres already a problem.

[@G19Jeeper]

Mobil 1 full synthetic. Once it gets into the gun, it feels smooth as glass and runs without issue for a LOT of rounds. Cheap too, a quart will last a decade for $10

[@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760]

amen. hand sanding with Mobil 1 full synthetic made me a true believer. On my guns, shiny spots tell me where to put lube.

[@scottdunn2178]

I've been an advocate of synthetic motor oil for years... it's designed to operate at a high temperature... and only suckers pay $10 for a couple of ounces of Rem Oil, etc.

[@awejots]

Isnt it really carcenogic for your hands?

[@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760]

Joshua Tipps new, clean oil is basically harmless. Used oil has been shown to carcinogenic in animal tests, but that’s from all the nasty chemicals from combustion being mixed into it. Years ago, I got into some nasty synthetic oils made for jet engines which caused blisters on my skin. I have sensitive skin and Mobil 1 synthetic has never bothered me one bit.

[@williamstorms3262]

Eating lab rats from the state of California has been shown to cause cancer and possible birth defects

[@DSjockey]

I was in the Army myself in the med to late 70's and I remember that drop or 2 of oil down the gas key lol. I oil the rails and bottom as well as the bolt assembly itself, run it sorta wet. Thanks for the video guys

[@brownells]

We've all been there! Haha Thank you!

[@alannaofrann6767]

My LWRCI stays pretty clean (piston) as far as carbon goes.so I have running the BCG dry. The carrier and bolt are both NP3 coated but I do spray 'em with E&L Dry Gun Lube. Graphite by any other name. No failures at all.

[@gungadinn]

In a bolt carrier group, the only place I wet lubricate are the rings on the bolt. As for the entire bolt/bolt carrier, I use a molybdenum disulfide spray for the wear surfaces. The fire control group has the pivoting surfaces lubricated with Hoppe's gun oil or CLP depending on what's in the range box at the time. In extremely dusty areas/conditions, the entire gun is DRY lubricated only. I don't need or want a wet lubricant mixing with dirt, turning into a lapping compound.

[@Xavieus]

Been watching you two on this channel for a while and just now realized you guys are also veterans! Love all the stuff y'all put out! Semper Fi

[@travisfisher8964]

Light coat of breakfree on entire bcg under normal conditions . I live in low humidity desert enviorment . Wet but not driping wet. Carbon will give some lubrication . Never run a AR dry! IMO thanks good video for beginners

[@michaelparker7529]

I have always used a little Tetra gun grease on the bolt carrier rails and ware surfaces , Rem oil with teflon on the firing pin ... Break Free CLP on everything else ,,,, it has worked well for me , very little ware and several thousand rounds , they always run well , I clean my ARs after every trip to the range , I keep the gas tube clear with Birchwood Casey gun scrubber and a few shots of compressed air , I keep the bolt free of carbon deposits and well oiled .

[@Dan-di9jd]

I always been a grease person and never had issues with it. I found that my rifle would last longer than anyone else at a class and was even asked what I used and people were surprised to learn I used grease. It's important that when you use grease you learn about the friction points of your rifle and only apply the grease to that area and apply so little that it leaves a thin coat. Also grease last for decades if you have just 1 rifle. I have a 16oz jar of Red n Tacky that I bought back in 2015 and still use it for my AR rifle to this day.

[@markrescober]

I run my 5.56, 6.8 spc and my 300 blk out BCGs lightly wet all over the surface and charging handles stems. Not any seizing issues, run perfect. All my rifles also have H2 buffers that are lightly oiled along the rim of buffer itself being a high friction area. Flawless operations. Like a well oiled motor, keep it lubed!! Happy shooting and be safe.

[@x-calibearusallc]

I just shoot a short blast of lithium grease inside the buffer tube before inserting the buffer and spring. CherryBalmz firearms grease on the BCG rails. Couple drops of oil on the gas rings and seal.

[@kurtisb100]

I have had issues with jamming in cold weather when lubed with oil; so when it’s cold (far north here. I’m talking -20 and colder) I clean the oil off and run graphite dry lube. The graphite has worked well in the cold, and since doing that I haven’t had any problems.

[@jakeweston8616]

Interesting to know.

[@SouthValleyKnifeCo]

Fucking what?

[@derubersoldatx]

it is interesting how temperatures wreck havoc with metal expansion/contraction, hardening rubber seals, freezing water droplets trapped in the action etc the whole physics change.

[@kurtisb100]

Vince Anders ...... not sure how to explain more clearly that extremely cold temps will jam you up if you run wet lube in it.

[@SouthValleyKnifeCo]

@@kurtisb100 because cold weather justifies running an abrasive "lubricant" in your gun. Yes carbon is abrasive as hell. Source: I work with it every day. You're extremely stupid for doing that vs buying a lubricant that wont gel up at those temps.

[@snafumagu]

Too many times people think you can run nichol boron dry. Its best to put a light layer on those BCGs too.

[@richrhocks]

A light coat of Supertech high temp grease from Walmart works great on all those surfaces mentioned. It's cheap too.

[@tehkoalainsurgency]

I use it for my handguns too, that stuff lasts FOREVER almost. I'm in Arizona and I shoot in the summer as well, the thinner oils aren't nearly as long lasting.

[@richrhocks]

@@tehkoalainsurgency I am a fan of Slip 2000 or Slip 2000 EWL too. Doesn't evaporate easily, excellent viscosity.

[@JamesSmullins]

I use the high temp bearing grease and holds up well. And for the few bucks it costs you get a lifetime supply. If it slides use grease If it rotates use oil.

[@Kim-yl7yg]

@@JamesSmullins That's what Cajun Gunworks told me two weeks ago. Bought their moly grease/oil.

[@JamesSmullins]

@vegeta420z Amazon is no better and in many ways far worse though Walmart is trying to catch up in those areas with their online third party sellers. You can get that grease at any auto parts store, if you have a local one use that.

[@md3280]

Depends on the weather for me. Hunting in frigid temps I usually use a dry lube so things run smoothly. Warmer temps plenty of oil (synthetic motor oil) on metal to metal parts.

[@pault.mccain6637]

As for the substance....I've participated as an assistant and student at many AR weekend classes and I've noticed that the number one issue people have with their ARs is caused by .... under lubrication. They hear the myth that you can "run them dry" and this may work ok for the first few hundred rounds, but ... in a situation where they are putting 500 rounds through a day often in rapid strings of fire....I see ARs choke up. I also make it a point to use a needle applicator and I do apply oil to the bolt itself and between the lugs, etc.

[@Golgi-Gyges]

I do not agree

[@fireteammichael1777]

I could see maybe precise amount with needle applicator on the lugs.. I'd imagine focus mostly on bolt/cam pin area.. I do, though haven't been to class shooting THAT many rounds.. few hundred here and there..

[@fireteammichael1777]

Also what's your opinion on grease? Actually synthetic grease like Mil-Comm TW-25b? I've always stuck with CLP but after my Sig Sauer P226 manual recommended above grease, I've experimented with it, particularly around bolt/cam pin. (My comment to the video says all this too)

[@TheRyanDude]

Fireteam Michael I think grease can be very dependent on your environment. I quit using it because it gets too think on cold days.

[@m118lr]

Glenn Pady ..You don’t HAVE to, BUT he’s right as most concur

[@fortyofforty5257]

I also lubricate the bolt, along the two contact points that guide the bolt within the carrier. Also, on the lugs, since they move into and out of the chamber lugs.

[@tunaonwhitenocrusts]

I'm glad I watched this. I've seen video after video of gun channels telling me to add oil to the holes. I will never do it again.

[@chuckwrenchalot7353]

Red lithium automotive grease stays slick rain or shine dosen't burn off after lots of rounds 200 or 300 in a session.

[@redriverrebel]

I too have heard of (and used) high temp grease on the sliding parts. Makes sense and easier to clean off carbon fouling later on.

[@daddystiel4324]

I have been running white lithium,, runs great. I have run over 800 with no problems.

[@derrick9605]

When I bought an upper receiver from Bravo Company Manufacturing they had some lithium grease around the cam pin. Seems like a good idea to lube that area really well as there's a lot of friction when the bolt starts to rotate under so much pressure inside the carrier.

[@LP-fy8wr]

You guys do some great work here keep em coming fellas !!

[@brownells]

Thank you!

[@joesimons7387]

I run mine dry but I don't shoot daily, maybe once a month and that I have 5 AR'S they don't get enough use to worry about lube. Now that you have brought this up I will add a bit of oil where you suggest after each use. Can't hurt.

[@mfro4422]

I typically put 1 drop on the gas rings of the bolt and the portion of the bolt that contacts the carrier gets a drop too. Other than that I typically put oil on the outside of the bcg on the surfaces that contact the upper receiver.

[@brandonparrett2436]

But war poet says drop in the holes 🕳 😂😂 great work

[@wvmountaineer69]

That's what I thought lol

[@BertShackleford]

His opinions are irrelevant. He ceased to be relevant after his "holier than thou" political tirade a while back. Good riddance.

[@SwaAusch]

@@BertShackleford I never heard about that. What'd he say?

[@wvmountaineer69]

Bert, which video are you referring to?

[@johnwilliamson5191]

great info guys, i used CLP for years & it allways gumed up , now use Tri-Flow.

[@brucel.6078]

I oil my muzzle brake.... just to make sure the gas flies out with perfect smoothness 😅 j/k! Lube the wear marks is ok for me!

[@fubar1217]

Exactly. No need to lube a place that isn't touching something.

[@m118lr]

Bruce L. Ha ha ha, good one

[@greybone777]

As an engineer I discovered Teflon products 😍. I've sprayed Tri Flo on bearings that were running race on race that were smoking and screeling from friction and had them run until I could replace them. Using it on semi automatic firearms I have zero wear on slide surfaces. Not even wearing the blue off. My bolt carrier has zero shiny spots. Break free,zep 45 are similar and equally effective. I called this stuff bearings in a can and proved it worked for 20 years. Believe what you want but I've been around and around on industrial lubricants talking to many experts on lubricants over my career and studying things in a long term application.

[@haywoodchablomi8037]

I also lube the cam pin, the enlarged bolt guide ring section and the lugs. Drop of oil and brush around for a light coating.

[@GE-pu8vt]

In my 50 plus years of experience with the M16/Ar15 they run better wet. I have never had a malfunction with running one wet, but I have had them shut down running them to dry.

[@weehawker1]

Thank you, for being so down to earth, and honest. Very Helpful.

[@deebru8354]

Thanks for clarity guys!

[@LoneStarLawman]

I recommend light grease, like Enos Slide Glide on the rails.

[@Jason-iz6ob]

I didn’t learn anything weird in the Army. But about 18 years ago my police department got a bunch of M16A1’s on loan from the Guard. They told us we had to soak the BCG. And while we were qualifying the range guys were walking around behind us with a spray bottle of oil to hose them down. Instead, I wiped my BCG down and just applied a tiny bit of oil where it’s needed. Had no issues. But the guys who would soak them down did.

[@bustedpeanut]

I run a thin layer of Lucas Gun Grease on my BCG in all the friction areas, and a drop of oil in the cam.

[@leonardepstein4908]

Grease your rails, and you get no fails!

[@dumasbagofhammers]

Another informative and helpful video. Thank you !

[@dodge1629]

Sorry to ask, but I heard some former military guy some where saying that everything that slides we should use grease, and for all moving parts oil. Is that correct or that's doesn't matter ?

[@mastodonxrp5314]

That is probably the best advice about slides: grease, moving parts: oil, but honestly it takes about all of 30 seconds to remove your BCG and give it a quick wipe it down to remove any dust and carbon. The only time I can see an absolute need for grease is if the weapon is going to do sustained full auto fire. IMHO just a little bit of quality gun oil like Slip 2000 on all the sliding and moving parts (combined with the frequent wipe downs in hostile conditions) is plenty good enough.

[@J-VIZE]

Amsoil gun oil is the absolute best oil to run in AR15’s. Completely disassemble BCG & clean as best you can. Next, oil cam pin rigorously. Then, oil rails as you see in this video. Following that, oil gas rings. Lightly oil firing pin. Lightly oil locking lugs.Lightly oil the the tip of the gas key as well as the top of it. Lightly oil underneath and around the charging handle. Lightly oil tapered tip on gas tube.. I recommend applying all lube with a foam Q tip. Minus the gas rings and cam pin. This is how you properly lube an AR 15 BCG…

[@radioactive9861]

For a VERY short time when I was in Desert Shield we used graphite to lube our rifles...the thought being 'oil and sand' would combine to jam the rifle....in practice, the combination of graphite and sand jammed the rifle way worse than oil and sand......

[@ChrisUrsiny]

when i lube my ar-15 bolts, i use mobil 1 20-50 oil, and i put a light coating on all the areas that either slide or rotate and this works fine for me, never had an issue with a jam, stovepipe or bad feed.

[@sboy1955]

I’ve never run my bolt dry but I have run them with varying degrees of wetness based on the never-ending opinions. In my rifles it doesn’t affect the weapon whether the BCG is lightly wet or totally wet, they run fine at any level. That includes lubing/not lubing the gas holes. The only thing consistent in my rifles is, I only use Balistol.

[@clinkerclint]

I've started using Lucas red and tacky grease on my rails for some time now. I really can't find a reason yet not to and my gosh does it make the gun feel smooth.

[@Tyler_B.]

I just use high temp bearing grease. I’ve had the same jar since middle school and I’m no where close to running out

[@stevemccormick3968]

@@Tyler_B. As a pomade?

[@anamericanpatriot5230]

That's why I like and use Hornady's one shot dry lubricant. Goes on wet and the dries and leaves a dry lubricant behind

[@Geogak]

I run my ar pretty much dry. Just coated the bolt with oil then wipped it down pretty well. the gun runs like a champ.

[@Nathan-jh1ho]

I just finished Army basic training at Fort Jackson. They told me to put a tiny bit of clp on the surface of the BCG. Everything else basically dry. Then they spray some clp in the ejection port before shooting.

[@calirider9168]

Usually after range/cleaning the bolt carrier group gets rehydrated then before shooting I usually drip oil on bolt carrier through ejection port than bring bolt back and drip oil on the back wall of the bolt carrier and than run that back and forth a few times

[@thelastjohnwayne]

I have had far more problems with firearms from under or no lubrication and almost no problems from over lubrication

[@Holden-McGroin]

I use high-temp synthetic bearing grease on my semi-auto rifles. Only a thin coat where metal slides on metal. Trigger groups get wiped with a light coat of Rem-oil during cleaning. I use this method on both my AR and M1a with zero failures or issues to date. My pistols get lubricated with Mobil1. My bolt guns just get Rem-oil cause they really don't get dirty and it's easy to just spray.

[@DEATH_TO_TYRANTS]

Thank you gentlemen. How about thicker grease vs thinner oil? To answer your question at the end. I've been smearing grease on the shiny parts. The rails and the little bearing surface on the bolt. Heavy on the rails, very light on the bolt. And I squirt clp lazily onto the bolt, including those vent holes, when needed. I've never had an issue, but I've never been to war either. 1500 rounds is the most I've ever shot in a day, and that's rare.

[@donaldnewman5596]

I run my personal system a little on the dry side. I've logged over 10k rounds with no malfunctions due to lubrication. Most, if not all, have been caused by faulty parts or ammo.

[@stephenrick6672]

Thank you, your show is a lot of help, much appreciated!

[@ericescarez9737]

Smyth busters video on sharing a bcg between different rifles please! Always been curious about this and have heard different opinions but no justified/definite answer.

[@CalebSavant]

Noted!

[@JohnQuincy1776]

I am really enjoying this series, I hope you guys keep it up.

[@jacksonsmiler8028]

CLP in a spray can works best for me. I live in northern Georgia so it's pretty humid, rust is easier to prevent than remove so I coat my firearms regularly.

[@mikewerden4056]

Besides friction areas on the BCG the cam pin I find works smoother and last longer well lubed.

[@scottgomez6244]

I personally ran my bolt relatively dry in both Iraq/Afghanistan (2/7 Echo). I used a light layer of CLP on the outside of the BCG and wiped it down with a rag to avoid gunking, but that's it...

[@SpotterVideo]

Not many firearms have a problem with too much lubrication. It has been said that a direct impingement AR-15 craps where it eats. Running it wet helps to wash away some of that crap (mainly carbon).

[@wbriggs111]

I like it dry in the gun cabinet but at the range I spray lube on to the bolt slides before shooting.

[@b-dog3862]

A light touch of high pressure grease on the cam pin goes a long way.

[@900stx7]

Agreed! Alot of the lube videos mention "putting a little lube on the cam pin if you want " The cam pin is under alot of stress. One of the few things that actually breaks on an AR. Lube the hell out of it !

[@mjjuntunen]

In the Army I ran it dry. Never had a problem other then blanks not feeding.

[@jamesleavenworth1023]

I lube externally. I actually put a dab of grease around the bolt pin. Maybe a drop of oil on the bolt lugs. Especially on new bolts so they mate engage and disengage smoothly. Piston rings get a drop. All engines with rings use oil to keep the rings loose and help them seal. Older Carbon encrusted rings don't seal as well and cause power lose and use more oil. Same is true of your AR. The rings need to be able to move to maintain the seal. Just never behind the rings..

[@M-Sixty]

When I was in the Army in 73, Drill Sergeant told us to put LSA in the 2 holes on the side. And of course lightly oil the whole thing.

[@louiscapasso4452]

Funny I went to the Colt armorers class a few years ago, and they taught us to put one or two drops in the two holes on the bolt carrier that the gas rings pass by. Thus lubricating the gas rings so they would not wear out. Hmm I wonder who is right?

[@thelastjohnwayne]

Please keep the great videos coming.

[@brownells]

Thank you for watching!

[@m118lr]

Run it MOSTLY wet, not dripping wet but ALL friction points OBVIOUSLY. The BOLT too, Gas RINGS: a drip or 2 of CLP.; I’ll even add a drop to the EJECTOR PIN and the EXTRACTOR SPRING from time to time. Don’t tell John Lovell of WPS “NOT” to put some CLP in those “gas exhaust holes” (for the combustion gases) ha ha ha...heck WE’VE ALL done it...

[@roush876]

Lube always makes things slide back n forth a little easier.

[@CarlosIowa]

Gentlemen. Thank You. Run my BCG not real wet but yes oil at all rails and moving parts, cam pin. More cleaning than oiling.

[@takingbacktoxic7898]

For my applications I run it wet. Its just easier to spray it lightly with remington oil, go to range and shoot, then come home and clean it all off where it sticks to the oil. Then put a little on again for storage.

[@tf2529]

Once again, good advice.

[@ironcode]

The Colt AR-15 manual says to put a drop in the gas key. I airways thought it's to lubricate the contact with the gas tube.

[@DavidVining1]

Dry guns attract sand and dust just like oily guns, but dry guns won't work for long, oily ones will. I used to clean my M60 and M16 twice a day whether I shot them or not. If I shot them, they got cleaned again as soon as it was safe to do so. Doorgunner, 92nd Assault Helicopter Company, Dong Ba Thin 1971.

[@outlawpat8038]

Love these short very informative videos.

[@themouas]

Mine is dripping wet, I figure it dries up fast in a couple of hundred rounds and if it is hot out it dries up even faster. Those who say wet bcg collects dust that's because they're not using their firearm.

[@adrianfirewalker4183]

"There's the right way, the wrong way, and then, by God, there's the Military way!"

[@brownells]

Haha truth

[@dannyo6699]

The friction points and the cam pin are the only points I put lube on with mine.

[@elitetrader5468]

After having the dissembled BCG in my sonic cleaner, I rinse it off with water, dry it, submerge it in a tank of Slip 2000 for 15 minutes, shake off excess oil, put it together, and install it in the rifle.. Never had an issue.

[@5jjt]

The Armalite manual calls for one drop of CLP down the gas key.

[@mxpxpunk008]

Quick and to the point love it thanks gentlemen

[@christopherwedemeyer2993]

A q tip with a little stainless grease over the bearing surfaces and a drop or two of Rent oil on the bolt pivot. Ten thousand plus rounds and twenty-four years and my Colt HBAR is still going.

[@slopsec2358]

Totally dry kinda guy! In the desert too with no problems. Oil attracts dirt and creates grit. Clean occasionally.

[@scottbashaw1761]

You should list specs that make up a good AR ,such as crimped bolts, twist,etc. For first time AR buyers to look for Thanks

[@brownells]

Good Idea!

[@daveh777]

It's funny that at the ranges in Basic they literally have squirt bottles of CLP to apply copious amounts of goo to your bolt and carrier assembly should there be a need...😅😮😂

[@blackticalmayhem8461]

😂yep I remember I was like WTF?! Ft. BENNING 🫡

[@gabrielauman9478]

This is my only experience with firing an AR-15 dry. A couple years ago I did a little work on one of my AR's (don't remember what), and I took it outside to test fire it. I took one fully loaded 30 round mag with me and although I got every round to fire, I had to manually cycle out 8 of those rounds. I was wondering why 8 rounds didn't fire, and I figured it out when I took the gun apart to clean it. The last time I put it back together, I had forgotten to lubricate the BCG, a simple oversight. I wouldn't tell you to look at this as fact, but that experience tells me that an unlubricated AR-15 will still absolutely fire, but roughly 1/3 rounds will not fire.

[@nimbly1693]

It makes me laugh, these guys that make videos of shooting their guns a billion rounds without cleaning or maintaining them. If your life depends on a gun, you damn well better make the space and time for taking care of it. I am a truck driver, I would never expect my truck to go beyond what it is designed to do. My gun either.

[@justaformer11b95]

Amen. There is a reason the priorities of work include "conduct maintenance operations" above sleep and food. It's kinda important. Lol

[@nimbly1693]

@Reel-Lentless I take apart and clean the lint out of my carry pistol every weekend. Cheap insurance.

[@mmpiforall5913]

I lube just before a trip to the range, most concerned with lube on the CAM PIN, bolts can crack in half if run dry in this area!

[@patriotintraining3822]

My bolt carrier assemblies are melonited, completely. I spray the bolt carrier assembly with either solvents, than the oils listed below, and wipe off the excess. My assembly shows no wear, but I follow the cartoon booklet of the Vietnam War for specific places. I’m still reeling about mixing gun oils. After 50 years of shooting, I learn this? I used to use Rem Action Cleaner and Rem oil but switched to non petroleum Shooter’s Solvent and Shooter’s Oil except for use in my Remington shotgun. The manual states nothing other than Rem products be used in my Remington. I spray or soak Brownell’s decarbonizing fluid after carbon is noted. Now I’m wondering about your decarbonation fluid used first. Does this impact parts, chemically, when Remington’s or Shooter’s Products are used? I’ve used everything interchangeably. The first time of a quote “malfunction”, “lube” is used which solves range issues. AR’s must be lubed.

[@daveminor7028]

Nice information! Thank you for your service!!

[@toddbates5359]

Nice! I oil, but wipe it off. Same advice I got in "the sandbox" and it served me well. excessive oil is just a dust catcher. It is not an M1A!

[@georgehartmann7434]

Just based on past experience, military and otherwise. Any semi auto/auto weapon that uses gas blowback, oil + powder = gunk. I agree with the points you show to be lubed. Have had better luck with drying graphite or in a pinch, a #2 pencil, rather than oil. Especially in the great white north. Wipe every moving part completely dry. In desert settings, experience is that sand sticks to oil. Welcome comments!

[@Willoajsjs]

Thanks guys

[@1112521]

look inside your upper receiver. if it shows wear marks, lube what contacts it. plus 3 or 4 drops in the buffer tube.

[@chipsterb4946]

Could you guys address the oil vs. grease question? (If you haven’t already). Those rails and especially the area that rides on the hammer are points I would consider using a light grease rather than oil. The theory being that grease stays put whereas oil would tend to be thrown off on parts sliding back and forth.

[@UniversalSoldierv32]

I use oil to clean and break up the carbon, wipe it down and then use grease on the contact areas.