Snapmaker Tool Changes: Fusion 360 3D Relief Milling

I made this video for anyone who wants to know how to mill a 3D relief on wood using Fusion 360 the Snapmaker 3 in 1. In this video you will be guided though the whole process, step by step from start to finish.
Below is a link to the stl file from Thingiverse.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:390...

[@DIYMachines]

I have to admit that I saw this video you kindly made several days ago but shied away from it for a couple of days because of the videos length whilst I sought for the information I wanted to know about my new Snapmaker elsewhere. Well, I just watched the entire video and it had all the information I needed, I should have watched it first. Thank you for taking the time to share it - it helped me out a lot.

[@markm49]

The flexing in that plate is shocking - thank goodness for the bracing kit.

[@StevenHughes0]

An absolutely amazing video. When I first looked at the length I thought it would be too long but the extra information given is so useful to understand why the settings that are used are selected and provide information into what each setting does

[@bayvanman]

Just wanted to thank you for a clear explanation on the steps involved, where other guides have lead to confusion. 👍🏻

[@MrMookvonavich]

Really appreciate this video. To have such a detailed video from someone using the exact software and machine that I have is very valuable. The in depth description of all the settings, whether they were used or not, really helps someone newer to cnc work feel more comfortable taking on a more complex project that would otherwise be pretty intimidating. Taking a lot of the guesswork out of the setup process is really nice. Thanks for the work you put into this one

[@rodneyshank716]

Thank you

[@Yijingman]

Wow, you actually grabbed my attention for the whole hour and a half and some rewinds in between! Great video and void of any nerdy jargon. Thank you!

[@benburton3496]

watched 9 times, found where i went wrong because of my model final bench layer. Rod your video has help amazingly .. will send a link for my angry bear carve

[@Tuij4]

A great video! Thanks! Love that you play RS as well

[@muhammadjanjua1063]

I thank you sincerely for doing such a wonderful job explaining the process in a simple and detail manner. very well done.

[@psymonious]

Many thanks! That is fantastic intel for my first projects.

[@stanwest8103]

Much appreciated - very detailed.

[@CordedTires]

Thanks for this! Lots of great detail - which I wouldn’t have appreciated before I started playing with Fusion 360 but now I do. (Haven’t done any relief work yet, but have done some pure 2d & engraving.) Also thanks for the workaround for rapid feed in your other video. I saw Blender and another mesh tool on your home screen, don’t be shy about letting us know about creating our own stl files once you get it all figured out 😀

[@GregPapaG]

Thanks for making this video for us CNC noobs. It was very helpful.

[@BillYovino]

This is great!

[@dnpadi]

great video, seem so long but really important facts and as easy as you could have done it!!! lets try it out!

[@shawnhanifan2500]

Great tutorial for using Fusion with the Snapmaker. Fusion can be overwhelming for the uninitiated. It can be challenging for those who use it with some regularity. I will add two comments. I have more than one CNC machine. That being said, I have never found a benefit to using "relative size box" for Stock size. You can plug in fairly, or very accurate dimensions of your stock before you post your code. This gives several benefits. One being that you know exactly how much, or how little stock you will leave unmachined. It also gives you a much more accurate modeling and simulation ( avoiding collisions, etc.). Also, with some models, where you want to machine the entire top surface away to some point (leaving no unmachined stock at the original height). For the Snapmaker (since it has no preset tool height offset library), I often set the WCS at the BOTTOM corner of the stock. That way when the original stock material is removed in the roughing passes, and I utilize Rest Machining, I can set subsequent tool heights from the table surface for all tools without losing the Z origin. It just leaves the work origin well above the Z zero.

[@rodneyshank716]

Thanks. You are correct but for the purpose of this tutorial I was trying to make it as easy as possible without going into too much detail. This is meant for beginners to get their feet wet without drowning them with information. There is so much in Fusion 360 that a tutorial can be hours and hours. Anyways I’m glad you enjoyed the tutorial.

[@yourmomsdildo3938]

Thanks for this video.

[@banj066]

Thank you fine sir for sharing your time and expertise. Very helpful

[@rodneyshank716]

You’re welcome. Glad to help.

[@manojnaikade]

very nice and helpful tutorial, thank you very much :-)

[@rodneyshank716]

Thank you

[@dmichaelharvey2087]

This is a really super video for anyone beginning to use Snapmaker for CNC. However, it needs to be updated for a number of significant changes in Fusion 360. Some of the adjustments are found in different places under different names. When to use 2D or 3D and what is the difference? The concept of contours (chains) is also unfamiliar. Fusion has a number very fine self paced learning videos under manufacturing but some of the concepts are difficult for a newbie to get their mind around. A couple of questions: What is the optimal load that the low power of the snapmaker can accommodate without bogging down and breaking the bit? Is that just accommodated by minimizing the step down? How do I choose choose how much stock to leave for the next step without leaving tool edge marks from the previous step? As a hobbyist, I do not care how long the job takes so being conservative is first priority.

[@ThePDXMike1]

Great video! Being a noob, this explained a LOT of the problems I had. I do have a question, do you have part numbers and source for the two bits that you are using? I tried following along in Fusion 360, but I don't have the bits you used, at least the 1/4" bit. I selected the 6mm FEM that is in the SnapMaker 2 library that I downloaded from the SM site. When I run the roughing simulation I get a collision at the upper right side. I think it's because the 6mm one in the library only has a 12mm flute length. Looking forward to your next video, hopefully, the one about adding/editing tools in F360.

[@livinnauti]

Thanks for video....are you using a up or down cut 1/4" bit? I wasn't sure which to buy, so I got both. Thanks!

[@iLEZ]

That was THOROUGH. Thank you very much. Is adding a pass to cut the piece out (with tabs) as straight forward as it seems?

[@robinsonohana]

AWESOME video! My one question is how would I edit this if I wanted to leave a square frame around the whole artwork?

[@terrellbradshaw3504]

Great video but pleeeeease check your audio before publishing. It is far too low.

[@evelaflamme8794]

Hi! Thanks for this vid :) could you please post a link to the bits your using so I can buy the good one?

[@donm1025]

Hi...nice project...I may have missed it but how many cutting hours did that take? Thanks

[@topbarhivebeekeeping8993]

2-3 hrs

[@stealthsloth]

How do you figure out what work speeds you can achieve with different bits and materials on the Snapmaker 2.0?

[@rodneyshank716]

Trial and error

[@nhyeo]

WHAT DO YOU DO IF YOU FIND A COLLISION? HOW DO YOU CORRECT IT?

[@rodneyshank716]

Depends on the collision. If it’s something very minor I may just let it go but if it’s a hard crash then you need to change some setting and or rotate your part and try again until you get something you can work with.

[@fisheye3d1727]

Link for bit? Cant find flat end mill only square

[@rodneyshank716]

From a local shop. www.tstool.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=SCEM1%2f4-2FLSE

[@KenBauerCanada]

I've tried this twice and both times it jammed in the top right corner about 50% into the job. Stopping the bit and shifting the wood. What could be causing this? With the 1/4 bit I'm worried about the machine now instead of the bit! I've tried on both pine and oak just to see if it was the wood hardness.

[@rodneyshank716]

i've had that happen from time to time. That's one thing about Fusion 360 that can be a pain to fix. My fix is run a profile tool path around your part so it don't rub on the wall and crash.

[@wayneqsr]

@@rodneyshank716 What's a profile tool path, and how do you create it? (Sorry, still learning the basics of CNC.)

[@johncarew1130]

Both of those types of wood are very hard wood. It jammed because it's moving too fast for that type of material, can't cut that much that fast. That's one area of the video that he does not explain correctly. The feed speed of the tool is not just based on the tool, it is based on the tool and the type of material you are cutting. That's why in fusion the tool has the ability to have several different tool profiles. So you can create a profile for that tool for specific material. For oak, using a 1mm bit, I have to set the feed rate to around 260 if I remember correctly.

[@AmbroseFernander]

Do you have more video clips with SM 2.0 + Fusion 360 for New CNC projects... seems like you could be an UNOFFICIAL SM 2.0 Academy.

[@stealthsloth]

Is the feeler gauge .002" or .002mm?

[@rodneyshank716]

Inch

[@avat0r]

You forgot to show how to adjust the rapid move....which is restricted without fusion subscription

[@rodneyshank716]

Working on it.

[@rodneyshank716]

Video added

[@justinkerns2197]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong? I ran the rough pass (successfully) & have the finishing pass set to to pick up after the Machine Rest (from pervious operations) but it only moves around in the air as if it's trying to cut from the original stock. Any help would be appreciated. (running Fusion 360 v2.0.11415)

[@rodneyshank716]

Make sure you set the z to the correct height. It seems you didn’t zero out the tip of the bit to the top of your material in the z axis.

[@justinkerns2197]

@@rodneyshank716 I'm not quite sure how to zero it out.

[@rodneyshank716]

@@justinkerns2197 the same way you set the zero for the first bit.

[@justinkerns2197]

@@rodneyshank716 the starting Z position would be the top of the stock but after the rough pass it would be lower. Not sure how to know how much lower since the relief has different depths.

[@rodneyshank716]

@@justinkerns2197 yeah I see. Not much you can do if you milled off your z axis 0 point. So as long as you haven’t changed your x and y 0 point then just start like you did but lower the z offset a small amount and run it and see if it’s low enough. If not rerun at a lower setting. If you can’t save it the treat this as a learning experience and make sure next time you leave an area to set your z offset or have something else the same height as your material to use as a z offset point. Goodluck.